The reinforced concrete base of floors has remarkable strength and is not subject to aging and destruction.

The characteristics of its thermal expansion are very insignificant, so any finishing coating does not experience significant deformation loads.

The arrangement of floors can be very different - load bearing capacity concrete is so large that the weight of the structures does not matter.

Layers that make up the structure of floors on reinforced concrete slab foundations: possible options

When arranging a floor, its layers can be:

• concrete slabs;
• thermal insulation material (expanded clay);
• screed (hard fiberboard, cement-sand);
• waterproofing (polyethylene film with a foil surface, bitumen mastics);
• soundproofing;
• underlying layer (chipboard, fiberboard);
• adhesives (mastic, PVA dispersions, bitumen);
• finishing coating (tiles, parquet, other flooring).

Correctly and competently formed floor structure for iron concrete slab also includes connecting parts (plinths), seams, etc.

There are a lot of options for flooring; changes can be made to them depending on circumstances. For example, linoleum can be laid on chipboard without gluing, welding only at the seams. However, it is important to remember that complete sound and heat insulation will make life in your home much more comfortable.

Laying linoleum on a concrete floor
Installation of linoleum

Scheme of laminate flooring on screed
Cutting off excess linoleum

Linoleum flooring on concrete

When choosing As a linoleum covering, flooring systems can consist of:

• reinforced concrete floor;
• cement-sand screed (about 20 mm thick). The basis of this solution is made up of materials of the M-200, M-150 grades;
• bitumen mastic, applied layer thickness - 0.5 mm;
• bitumen primer 0.3 mm thick;
• linoleum.

If you want to insulate the system, a layer of expanded clay concrete about 60 mm thick is installed between the slabs and the screed. In this case, you can use linoleum on a heat-insulating base, carpet, and also eliminate the screed from the design.

Laminate flooring, parquet

In terms of their characteristics, the design of floors on a reinforced concrete slab with a finished flooring made of laminate or parquet differs slightly from the previous version.

The components are:

• reinforced concrete floor;
• expanded clay concrete with a layer of 40 mm;
• 20 mm screed - its solution is prepared from material grades M-150, 200;
• mastic: bitumen 0.5 mm, adhesive 0.3 mm;
• parquet.

For additional insulation A layer of expanded clay concrete is installed in front of the screed device.

Laminate on reinforced concrete screed
How to lay laminate flooring on a reinforced concrete slab

Ceramic tiles on concrete base
Laying tiles

Ceramic tiles on a concrete base

The most in a simple way in such a situation, tiling with mortar is considered. In this case, a screed is applied to the concrete, and then tiles are laid on the solution. When using adhesives, a bitumen primer is applied, and then the tiles are fixed to the adhesive mastic. If insulation is necessary, an expanded clay concrete layer is installed on the slabs, which is covered successively with screed, primer, mastic and the final element - tiles.

How to soundproof

Good insulation is an opportunity to exclude the penetration of extraneous annoying noise from neighbors and make your life truly intimate.

For sound insulation, you will need to supplement the structure with additional elements:

• cover the leveling layer with lining roofing felt in one or two layers;
• install wooden logs;
• lay between joists soundproofing material: mineral wool, glass wool, etc.;
• cover the logs with plank covering;
• construct a leveling layer from fiberboard.

Schemes for installing a floor on the ground in a house, basement, garage or bathhouse

In houses without basements, the floor of the first floor can be made according to two schemes:

• supported on the ground - with a screed on the ground or on joists;
• supported on walls - like a ceiling over a ventilated underground.

Which of the two options will be better and easier?

In houses without a basement, floors on the ground are a popular solution for all rooms on the first floor. Floors on the ground are cheap, simple and easy to implement; they are also beneficial to install in the basement, garage, bathhouse and other utility rooms. Simple design, the use of modern materials, the placement of a heating circuit in the floor (warm floor), such floors are made comfortable and attractively priced.

In winter, the backfill under the floor always has a positive temperature. For this reason, the soil at the base of the foundation freezes less - the risk of frost heaving of the soil is reduced. In addition, the thickness of the thermal insulation of a floor on the ground may be less than that of a floor above a ventilated underground.

It is better to abandon the floor on the ground if backfilling with soil is required to a height that is too high, more than 0.6-1 m. The costs of backfilling and soil compaction in this case may be too high.

A floor on the ground is not suitable for buildings on piles or columnar foundation with a grillage located above the ground surface.

Three basic diagrams for installing floors on the ground

In the first version concrete monolithic reinforced floor slab rests on load-bearing walls, Fig.1.

After the concrete hardens, the entire load is transferred to the walls. In this option, a monolithic reinforced concrete floor slab plays the role of a floor slab and must be designed for the standard load of the floors, have the appropriate strength and reinforcement.

The soil is actually used here only as temporary formwork when constructing a reinforced concrete floor slab. This type of floor is often called a “suspended floor on the ground”.

A suspended floor on the ground has to be made if there is a high risk of shrinkage of the soil under the floor. For example, when building a house on peat bogs or when the height of the bulk soil is more than 600 mm. The thicker the backfill layer, the higher the risk of significant subsidence of the fill soil over time.

Second option - this is a floor on a foundation - a slab, when reinforced concrete monolithic slab, poured onto the ground over the entire area of ​​the building, serves as a support for the walls and a base for the floor, Fig.2.

Third option provides for the installation of a monolithic concrete slab or laying wooden logs in the spaces between load-bearing walls supported on bulk soil.

Here the slab or floor joists are not connected to the walls. The load of the floor is completely transferred to the bulk soil, Fig.3.

It is the latter option that is correctly called a floor on the ground, which is what our story will be about.

Ground floors must provide:

• thermal insulation of premises in order to save energy;
• comfortable hygienic conditions for people;
• protection against penetration of ground moisture and gases - radioactive radon - into premises;
• prevent the accumulation of water vapor condensation inside the floor structure;
• reduce the transmission of impact noise to adjacent rooms along the building structures.

Backfilling the soil cushion for the floor on the ground

The surface of the future floor is raised to the required height by installing a cushion of non-heaving soil.

Before starting work on backfilling, be sure to remove the top soil layer with vegetation. If this is not done, the floor will begin to settle over time.

Any soil that can be easily compacted can be used as a material for constructing a cushion: sand, fine crushed stone, sand-gravel mixture, and if the groundwater level is low, sandy loam and loam. It is beneficial to use the soil remaining on the site from the well and (except for peat and black soil).

The cushion soil is carefully compacted layer by layer (no thicker than 15 cm.) by compacting and pouring water onto the soil. The degree of soil compaction will be higher if mechanical compaction is used.

Large crushed stones should not be placed in the cushion, broken brick, pieces of concrete. There will still be voids between large fragments.

The thickness of the bulk soil cushion is recommended to be in the range of 300-600 mm. It is still not possible to compact the fill soil to the state of natural soil. Therefore, the soil will settle over time. A thick layer of fill soil can cause the floor to settle too much and unevenly.

To protect against ground gases - radioactive radon, it is recommended to make a layer of compacted crushed stone or expanded clay in the cushion. This underlying captage layer is made 20 cm thick. The content of particles smaller than 4 mm this layer should contain no more than 10% by weight. The filtration layer must be ventilated.

The top layer of expanded clay, in addition to protecting against gases, will serve as additional thermal insulation for the floor. For example, a layer of expanded clay 18 cm. corresponds to 50 in terms of heat-saving ability mm. polystyrene foam To protect against crushing of insulation boards and waterproofing films, which in some floor designs are laid directly on the backfill, a leveling layer of sand is poured on top of the compacted layer of crushed stone or expanded clay, the thickness of which is twice the size of the backfill fraction.

Before filling the soil cushion, it is necessary to lay water supply and sewerage pipes at the entrance to the house, as well as pipes for the ground ventilation heat exchanger. Or lay cases for installing pipes in them in the future.

Construction of floors on the ground

In private housing construction, the floor on the ground is arranged according to one of three options:

• ground floor with concrete screed;
• ground floor with dry screed;
• ground floor on wooden joists.

A concrete floor on the ground is noticeably more expensive to construct, but is more reliable and durable than other structures.

Concrete floor on the ground

Ground floors are multilayer construction, Fig.4. Let's go through these layers from bottom to top:

1. Placed on a ground cushion material that prevents filtration into the groundmoisture contained in freshly laid concrete (e.g. plastic film thickness not less than 0.15 mm.). The film is applied to the walls.
2. Along the perimeter of the walls of the room, to the total height of all layers of the floor, fix separating edge layer from strips 20 – 30 thick mm, cut from insulation boards.
3. Then they arrange a monolithic concrete floor preparation thickness 50-80 mm. from lean concrete class B7.5-B10 to crushed stone fraction 5-20 mm. This is a technological layer intended for gluing waterproofing. The radius of concrete joining the walls is 50-80 mm. Concrete preparation can be reinforced with steel or fiberglass mesh. The mesh is placed in the lower part of the slab with protective layer concrete at least 30 mm. For reinforcing concrete foundations it can alsouse steel fiber length 50-80 mm and diameter 0.3-1mm. During hardening, the concrete is covered with film or watered. Read:
4. For hardened concrete floor preparation weld-on waterproofing is glued. Either two layers of rolled waterproofing or roofing material on a bitumen base with each layer placed on the wall. The rolls are rolled out and joined with an overlap of 10 cm. Waterproofing is a barrier to moisture and also serves as protection against the penetration of ground gases into the house. The floor waterproofing layer must be combined with a similar wall waterproofing layer. Butt joints of film or roll materials must be sealed.
5. On a layer of hydro-gas insulation lay thermal insulation slabs. Extruded polystyrene foam will probably be the best option for floor insulation on the ground. Foam plastic with a minimum density of PSB35 (residential premises) and PSB50 for heavy loads (garage) is also used. Polystyrene foam breaks down over time upon contact with bitumen and alkali (these are all cement-sand mortars). Therefore, before laying foam plastic on a polymer-bitumen coating, one layer of polyethylene film should be laid with an overlap of sheets of 100-150 mm. The thickness of the insulation layer is determined by thermal engineering calculations.
6. On the thermal insulation layer lay the underlying layer(for example, polyethylene film with a thickness of at least 0.15 mm.), which creates a barrier to moisture contained in freshly laid concrete floor screed.
7. Then lay a monolithic reinforced screed with a “warm floor” system (or without a system). When heating floors, it is necessary to provide in the screed expansion joints. The monolithic screed must be at least 60 thick mm. executed from concrete class not lower than B12.5 or from mortarbased on cement or gypsum binder with a compressive strength of at least 15 MPa(M150 kgf/cm 2). The screed is reinforced with welded steel mesh. The mesh is placed at the bottom of the layer. Read: . To more thoroughly level the surface of a concrete screed, especially if the finished floor is made of laminate or linoleum, a self-leveling solution of factory-made dry mixes with a thickness of at least 3 is applied on top of the concrete layer. cm.
8. On the screed installing finished floor.

This is a classic ground floor. Based on it, various design options are possible - both in design and in the materials used, both with and without insulation.

Option - concrete floor on the ground without concrete preparation

Using modern building materials, concrete floors on the ground are often made without a layer concrete preparation . A layer of concrete preparation is needed as a basis for gluing roll waterproofing on paper or tissue based, impregnated with a polymer-bitumen composition.

In floors without concrete preparation as waterproofing, a more durable one specially designed for this purpose is used polymer membrane, a profiled film that is laid directly on the ground pad.

A profiled membrane is a fabric made of high-density polyethylene (HDP) with protrusions molded on the surface (usually spherical or truncated cone-shaped) with a height of 7 to 20 mm. The material is produced with a density from 400 to 1000 g/m 2 and is supplied in rolls with widths ranging from 0.5 to 3.0 m, length 20 m.

Due to the textured surface, the profiled membrane is securely fixed into the sand base without deforming or moving during installation.

Fixed into a sand base, the profiled membrane provides a solid surface suitable for laying insulation and concrete.

The surface of the membranes can withstand the movement of workers and machines for transporting concrete mixtures and solutions (excluding crawler-mounted machines) without breaking.

The service life of the profiled membrane is more than 60 years.

The profiled membrane is laid on a well-compacted sand bed with the spikes facing down. The membrane spikes will be fixed in the pillow.

The seams between the overlapping rolls are carefully sealed with mastic.

The studded surface of the membrane gives it the necessary rigidity, which allows you to lay insulation boards directly on it and concrete the floor screed.

If slabs made of extruded polystyrene foam with profiled joints are used to construct a thermal insulation layer, then such slabs can be laid directly on the ground backfill.

Backfill of crushed stone or gravel with a thickness of at least 10 cm neutralizes the capillary rise of moisture from the soil.

In this embodiment, the polymer waterproofing film is laid on top of the insulation layer.

If the top layer of the soil cushion is made of expanded clay, then you can dispense with the insulation layer under the screed.

The thermal insulation properties of expanded clay depend on its bulk density. From expanded clay with bulk density 250–300 kg/m 3 it is enough to make a thermal insulation layer with a thickness of 25 cm. Expanded clay with bulk density 400–500 kg/m 3 to achieve the same thermal insulation ability, you will have to lay it in a layer 45 thick cm. Expanded clay is poured in layers 15 thick cm and compacted using manual or mechanical rammer. The easiest to compact is multi-fraction expanded clay, which contains granules of different sizes.

Expanded clay is quite easily saturated with moisture from the underlying soil. Wet expanded clay has reduced thermal insulation properties. For this reason, it is recommended to install a moisture barrier between the base soil and the expanded clay layer. A thick waterproofing film can serve as such a barrier.

Large-porous expanded clay concrete without sand, encapsulated. Each expanded clay granule is enclosed in a cement waterproof capsule.

The base for the floor, made of large-porous sand-free expanded clay concrete, will be durable, warm and with low water absorption.

Floor on the ground with dry prefabricated screed

In ground floors, instead of a concrete screed as the top load-bearing layer, in some cases it is advantageous to make a dry prefabricated screed from gypsum fiber sheets, from sheets of waterproof plywood, as well as from prefabricated floor elements from different manufacturers.

For residential premises on the first floor of the house more than simple and cheap option There will be a floor on the ground with a dry prefabricated floor screed, Fig. 5.

A floor with a prefabricated screed is afraid of flooding. Therefore, it should not be done in the basement, as well as in wet rooms - bathroom, boiler room.

The ground floor with a prefabricated screed consists of the following elements (positions in Fig. 5):

1 - Flooring - parquet, laminate or linoleum.

2 - Glue for joints of parquet and laminate.

3 - Standard underlay for flooring.

4 - Prefabricated screed made of ready-made elements or gypsum fiber sheets, plywood, particle boards, OSB.

5 - Glue for assembling the screed.

6 - Leveling backfill - quartz or expanded clay sand.

7 - Communications pipe (water supply, heating, electrical wiring, etc.).

8 - Insulation of the pipe with porous fiber mats or polyethylene foam sleeves.

9 - Protective metal casing.

10 — Expanding dowel.

11 - Waterproofing - polyethylene film.

12 - Reinforced concrete base made of class B15 concrete.

13 - Foundation soil.

The connection between the floor and the outer wall is shown in Fig. 6.

The positions in Fig. 6 are as follows:
1-2. Varnish coating parquet, parquet, or laminate or linoleum.
3-4. Parquet adhesive and primer, or standard underlay.
5. Prefabricated screed from ready-made elements or gypsum fiber sheets, plywood, particle boards, OSB.
6. Water-dispersed adhesive for screed assembly.
7. Moisture insulation - polyethylene film.
8. Quartz sand.
9. Concrete base - reinforced screed made of class B15 concrete.
10. Separating gasket made of waterproofing roll material.
11. Thermal insulation made of polystyrene foam PSB 35 or extruded polystyrene foam, thickness as calculated.
12. Foundation soil.
13. Plinth.
14. Self-tapping screw.
15. External wall.

As mentioned above, the soil cushion at the base of the floor always has a positive temperature and in itself has certain heat-insulating properties. In many cases, it is enough to additionally lay insulation in a strip along the outer walls (item 11 in Fig. 6.) in order to obtain the required thermal insulation parameters for a floor without underfloor heating (without heated floors).

Thickness of floor insulation on the ground

Fig.7. Be sure to lay insulation tape in the floor, along the perimeter of the external walls, with a width of at least 0.8 m. From the outside, the foundation (basement) is insulated to a depth of 1 m.

The temperature of the soil under the floor, in the area adjacent to the plinth along the perimeter of the external walls, depends quite strongly on the temperature of the outside air. A cold bridge forms in this zone. Heat leaves the house through the floor, soil and basement.

The ground temperature closer to the center of the house is always positive and depends little on the temperature outside. The soil is heated by the heat of the Earth.

Building regulations require that the area through which heat escapes be insulated. For this, It is recommended to install thermal protection at two levels (Fig. 7):

1. Insulate the basement and foundation of the house from the outside to a depth of at least 1.0 m.
2. Lay a layer of horizontal thermal insulation into the floor structure around the perimeter of the external walls. The width of the insulation tape along the external walls is not less than 0.8 m.(pos. 11 in Fig. 6).

The thickness of the thermal insulation is calculated from the condition that the overall resistance to heat transfer in the area floor - soil - base must be no less than the same parameter for outer wall.

Simply put, the total thickness of the insulation of the base plus the floor should be no less than the thickness of the insulation of the outer wall. For the climatic zone in the Moscow region, the total thickness of foam insulation is at least 150 mm. For example, vertical thermal insulation on a plinth 100 mm., plus 50 mm. horizontal tape in the floor along the perimeter of the external walls.

When choosing the size of the thermal insulation layer, it is also taken into account that insulating the foundation helps reduce the depth of freezing of the soil under its base.

These are the minimum requirements for ground floor insulation. It is clear that the larger the size of the thermal insulation layer, the higher the energy saving effect.

Install thermal insulation under the entire floor surface for the purpose of energy saving, it is only necessary in the case of installing heated floors in the premises or building an energy-passive house.

In addition, a continuous layer of thermal insulation in the floor of the room can be useful and necessary to improve the parameter heat absorption of the floor covering surface. Heat absorption of the floor surface is the property of the floor surface to absorb heat in contact with any objects (for example, the feet). This is especially important if the finished floor is made of ceramic or stone tiles, or other material with high thermal conductivity. Such a floor with insulation will feel warmer.

The heat absorption index of the floor surface for residential buildings should not be higher than 12 W/(m 2 °C). A calculator for calculating this indicator can be found

Wooden floor on the ground on joists on a concrete screed

Base slab made of concrete class B 12.5, thickness 80 mm. over a layer of crushed stone compacted into the ground to a depth of at least 40 mm.

Wooden blocks - logs with a minimum cross-section, width 80 mm. and height 40 mm., It is recommended to lay on a layer of waterproofing in increments of 400-500 mm. For vertical alignment, they are placed on plastic pads in the form of two triangular wedges. By moving or spreading the pads, the height of the lags is adjusted. The span between adjacent support points of the log is no more than 900 mm. A gap of 20-30 mm wide should be left between the joists and the walls. mm.

The logs lie freely without attachment to the base. During the installation of the subfloor, they can be fastened together with temporary connections.

For the installation of a subfloor it is usually used wood boards— OSB, chipboard, DSP. The thickness of the slabs is at least 24 mm. All slab joints must be supported by joists. Wooden lintels are installed under the joints of the slabs between adjacent logs.

The subfloor can be made from tongue-and-groove floorboards. Such a floor made from high-quality boards can be used without floor covering. Permissible humidity wood flooring materials 12-18%.

If necessary, insulation can be laid in the space between the joists. Plates from mineral wool Be sure to cover the top with a vapor-permeable film, which prevents microparticles of insulation from penetrating into the room.

Rolled waterproofing made of bitumen or bitumen-polymer materials glued in two layers onto the concrete underlying layer using the melting method (for fused rolled materials) or by sticking on bitumen-polymer mastics. When installing adhesive waterproofing it is necessary to ensure a longitudinal and transverse overlap of the panels of at least 85 mm.

To ventilate the underground space of floors on the ground along the joists, the rooms must have slots in the baseboards. Holes with an area of ​​20-30 are left in at least two opposite corners of the room. cm 2 .

Wooden floor on the ground on joists on posts

There's another one design diagram gender is wooden floor on the ground on joists, laid on posts, Fig.5.

Positions in Fig.5:
1-4 - Elements of the finished floor.
5 —
6-7 - Glue and screws for assembling the screed.
8 - Wooden joist.
9 — Wooden leveling gasket.
10 - Waterproofing.
11 - Brick or concrete column.
12 - Foundation soil.

Arranging the floor on joists along columns allows you to reduce the height of the ground cushion or completely abandon its construction.

Floors, soils and foundations

Ground floors are not connected to the foundation and rest directly on the ground under the house. If it is heaving, then the floor can “go on a spree” under the influence of forces in winter and spring.

To prevent this from happening, the heaving soil under the house must be made not to heave. The easiest way to do this is the underground part

Design of pile foundations on bored (including TISE) and screw piles involves the installation of a cold base. Insulating the soil under a house with such foundations is a rather problematic and expensive task. Floors on the ground in the house pile foundation can be recommended only for non-heaving or slightly heaving soils on the site.

When building a house on heaving soils, it is necessary to have an underground part of the foundation to a depth of 0.5 - 1 m.

In a house with outside multilayer walls with insulation on the outside, a cold bridge is formed through the base and load-bearing part of the wall, bypassing the insulation of the wall and floor.

From the author: Greetings, dear reader! We all sooner or later face renovations in the hope of making our home the most comfortable and beautiful, because the house is our fortress. This is a place where we can be alone with ourselves and where we feel protected. As soon as we start thinking about repairs, we begin to look at the prices of materials and services, and literally immediately we understand that we cannot save much on materials, but we can refuse the services of builders by doing the repairs ourselves. One of the upcoming operations is laying floors, and it is vital for you to know the structure of the floor on a concrete slab, otherwise problems with repairs will definitely not be avoided.

Types of floors and their designs

First, let's figure out what types there are, since not all of them are suitable for installation in an apartment or house. Some of them may not meet your needs or damage your budget. So, they distinguish the following types flooring technologies:

• on concrete slabs;
• on the ground;
• wooden on concrete slabs;
• concrete with wooden base;
• concrete for industrial buildings;
• made of fiber-reinforced concrete;
• warm.

Now you will understand which one is needed for what, how it is made, and what its advantages and disadvantages are.

Floors on concrete slabs

This type of flooring is the most common, since most city residents live in apartments, and all floors of apartment buildings are made exclusively using reinforced concrete slabs. They can be used to make any floor, be it wooden or warm, floating or with the laying of inexpensive linoleum.

Floor slabs are a universal base - they are strong, capable of withstanding enormous loads and can be used for many years in the most harsh conditions, without losing its strength properties. But no matter what kind of coating we lay, it is worth remembering the necessary sequence of actions in laying the various layers. In any case, the production of wooden floors on concrete floors is as follows:

1. Substrate preparation, cleaning or screeding.
2. Marking the installation of logs and applying special glue to the surface.
3. Laying the logs strictly horizontally, using a hydraulic level or a regular level.
4. Laying a waterproofing layer on top of the lag.
5. Laying insulation between joists.
6. Placement of the rough layer, be it a board, plywood or chipboard.
7. Vapor barrier layer.
8. Substrate.
9. Finish coating, laminate or parquet, or boards.

Making a concrete base takes much less time than a wooden one, but its properties are completely different. Such floors have extremely high strength compared to any other type of floor and are not subject to destruction and aging. This floor is static, it thermal expansions so slow and insignificant that any finishing coating on it does not experience any deformation loads and can serve for a very long time. At proper arrangement serves as an excellent barrier to heat loss, and in case of an emergency such as a flood, it will not allow water to penetrate to the neighbors.

The disadvantages include the following. Low heat capacity, i.e. poor ability to retain heat - therefore, such a floor without a finishing coating will almost always be cold, unless it is made using heated floor technology. It's very heavy. Places a serious load on supporting structures and foundations, so if this a private house, and even with floating soil, you should refrain from such a floor.

Now let's look at the sequence of work. It consists of the following steps:

1. Surface preparation.
2. Primer with deep penetration compounds.
3. Laying roll waterproofing or applying liquid formulations with the same properties.
4. Installation of a reinforcing cage, or the use of basalt fiber. In the case of reinforcement with cellular layers, we tie or weld them and lay them on pieces of brick so as to move them away from the surface (so that when pouring the screed, the mesh is in the middle).
5. Installation of beacons. They are laid on a solid strip of cement mortar with a small addition of alabaster - this “slide” is laid on top of the reinforcing cage, but so as not to catch it.
6. Preparation of a solution using plasticizers or several caps of shampoo.
7. Pouring the mortar, pulling the screed.
8. Laying vapor barrier, underlayment and finishing coating.

Floors on the ground

This coating is typical for newly erected buildings. The floor on the ground must meet many criteria - after all, it is the main barrier from the earth, which constantly strives to destroy it, saturate it with moisture and take away heat.

To prevent the harmful effects of these factors, multi-layer laying technology is used. Work on the ground is performed as follows and in this order:

1. If we have soft soil at the base, cut off the top layer, about 20–30 cm.
2. The resulting layer of earth is compacted with a special metal block or press.
3. We lay a cushion of sand mixed with crushed stone on the compacted earth. The layer should be about 10–15 cm.
4. We lay a damper tape made of foamed polyurethane.
5. Next, fill in a rough layer of screed, possibly without reinforcement or beacons. Fill with a layer of approximately 5–15 cm.
6. We lay a layer of polyethylene or roofing felt for waterproofing.
7. Then we lay a layer insulation material. It is best to use polystyrene foam or polystyrene foam.
8. We lay the reinforcing mesh on the brick islands to create a gap and place the reinforcement in the middle of the screed layer.
9. We install beacons.
10. We lay the damper tape.
11. Fill in the finishing layer of screed.
12. We lay a vapor barrier, underlayment and any finishing coating.

As you can see, there is nothing complicated in making a floor with your own hands, and you can do it all yourself in a short period of time. All that will stop you is the drying time of the layers.

Source: http://mrpol.su

Firstly, the ground on which the pillow will be laid must be dry. If it is wet, wait until it dries or dry it using specialized diesel infrared guns that will effectively cope with this task.

The rough layer of the screed must dry completely - on average, this takes 20–25 days, and in climates with high humidity- 28–30 days. The finishing layer of the screed should be thinner, no more than 5 cm. It also dries in 20–25 days.

In order for this layer to turn out to be of high quality, it must be covered with film immediately after pouring. To dry evenly, it is moistened generously twice in 24 hours, and then covered with plastic wrap for 3-4 days to evenly distribute moisture. Then remove the film and leave for 20–25 days to dry completely.

This method is effectively used for making floors in a private house, since usually only there is a need to pour the screed onto the ground. This concludes our discussion of making a ground screed with our own hands, and now let’s move on to the next type.

Floors with basalt fiber

New on the building materials market. It appeared not so long ago, about seven years ago, but it never gained much popularity. Basalt fiber is an extremely strong fiber with amazing tear resistance properties. Represents fibers, most often white only 5–7 cm in length, which are supplied in bags.

The manufacturing technology of concrete screed with basalt fiber is as follows. Exactly the same operations are performed as when pouring a regular screed, but with one fundamental difference. We do not put reinforcing cages and rods into the base, but instead add basalt fibers directly into the solution, in the proportion indicated on the package, and mix. After hardening, the fibers bind the entire fabric with thousands of threads, which give the structure incredible strength and flexibility.

This method is rarely used in home construction, but almost all industrial facilities are built this way. In cases where support beams or stiffening ribs are erected, the methods are combined, i.e., both reinforcement and basalt are used to obtain heavy-duty structures.

Wooden subfloors

To understand what the production of concrete floors involves wooden base, watch this video very carefully. Or you will definitely achieve the destruction of the entire structure. No, we are not scaring you, we are just trying to warn you.

The fact is that wood and metal are materials with completely different nature, structure and properties. A tree is never static, it is always moving. Its dynamics are determined by humidity, temperature, and degree of drying. It is forbidden to pour screed onto a tree at all if the tree is fresh - only after a 3-year period!

When exposed to the same temperature, these materials expand differently, so they need to be combined so that they are completely independent of each other. To do this, use ordinary plastic film - concrete does not stick to it at all and seems to slide while the wood moves.

The entire process should be performed in the following sequence:

1. We remove the boardwalk and inspect all the joists to remove damaged and rotten ones, otherwise the wooden floor may not withstand the load. A slab of concrete 5 cm thick and 1 m2 in area weighs about 300 kg.
2. We restore the flooring and treat the wood with an antiseptic and primer.
3. We lay down plastic film.
4. We lay reinforcement or use fiber-reinforced concrete.
5. We lay the damper tape.
6. We place beacons.
7. Fill the screed.

As a result, we get two coatings that exist completely separately from each other. This design rarely used in practice, but sometimes extremely necessary. No matter how complex it may be, it has all the properties of a full-fledged concrete base and thermal characteristics wooden floor.

Floors in industrial buildings

If there is a need to manufacture specific flooring with increased durability and improved performance, then you need to inquire about industrial building flooring.

This coating is poured in the same way as all screeds. We use waterproofing, damper tape, reinforcement, basalt fiber. But there are a few critical differences. In industrial buildings, depending on the purpose, either a simple screed or a screed with iron reinforcement is made. Depending on the expected load, the layer thickness increases from 5 cm, as in civil buildings, to 20 cm for industrial facilities.

Reinforcement is placed in mandatory, and in two stages. The first is the lower reinforcement, the second is the upper. The floor is poured in such a way that the reinforcement cage is located 5 cm below, and 5 cm above the screed, because the coating can work not only in tension under heavy weight, but also in compression, and each of the reinforcement belts must absorb these forces.

And most importantly, any industrial screed should be made only using vibration machines. These are special installations that force the layer of mortar to become denser under the influence of vibration and fill all voids more thoroughly. In this way, excellent coating properties can be achieved.

Well, dear reader, now you have learned everything you can about what types of flooring devices there are and how to make them. There are, of course, specific schemes - for example, production in a bathhouse, but they differ only in the presence of drains and drainage holes, and are made according to exactly the same principles as all the others. Now, with this information, you can easily arrange a floor for any purpose. Good luck and see you again!

Wooden floors on joists are one of the oldest methods of flooring and the only one used in the northern regions of our country. Modern materials have only improved ancient technologies, due to which the scope of applications has significantly expanded and performance indicators have improved. Before proceeding directly to consideration various options, you should familiarize yourself a little with the engineering requirements for calculations.

Logs are distinguished from beams by their smaller size and mobility. If beams cannot be moved after installation, and repairs are very long and labor-intensive, then logs are a mobile architectural element. They are much easier to install and, if necessary, repairs are carried out faster.

Before you start building a floor, you need to study the requirements regulatory documents to the size of the joists and the distance between them, taking into account the thickness of the floorboards.

Table of lag sections at a pitch of 70 cm

Table of distance between joists depending on the thickness of the board

In order to learn how to independently make calculations based on tables, it will be useful to consider simplest example. Initial data: room length 10 m, take floorboard 30 mm thick.

Calculation method

According to the table, with such a thickness of the board, the distance between the logs is 50 cm; with a room length of 10 m, 20 logs will be needed. The distance between the logs and the walls cannot exceed 30 cm. This means that we will have to increase their number by one piece, the distance between the others will decrease to 45 centimeters.

Important note. During calculations, all roundings should be done only downwards, thus creating an additional margin of safety.

There is no need to calculate dimensions and distances accurate to the millimeter; no one takes such measurements. By the way, during construction, the vast majority of architectural elements and structures are measured in centimeters, the greatest accuracy is half a centimeter. Millimeters are almost never used during measurements.

Floor subfloor options

These types of floors can be installed on wooden and concrete base or on the ground. Each option has its own technological features, which must be kept in mind during work. As for the specific purpose of the premises, taking this parameter into account, the base of the floor and its operational characteristics are selected. The technology of the device itself remains almost unchanged. There are, of course, options for warm and cold floors, but these features also have a common construction algorithm.

Installation of a wooden floor on joists on wooden bases

Such floors can be made in both wooden and brick buildings and can have several varieties. The features of flooring need to be considered at the building design stage. Not only the purpose of each room and its size are taken into account, but also the climatic zone of residence, microclimate requirements and the financial capabilities of the developer. Below are step-by-step recommendations for constructing this type of flooring.

Depending on specific conditions, the algorithm can be slightly modified, but all main construction operations must be completed. The base can be moisture-resistant OSB boards or sheets of plywood. The design of the floor coverings provides for the possibility of laying insulation; the use of rolled and pressed glass wool or polystyrene foam is allowed. If there are insulation materials, then you should definitely install hydro- and vapor barriers.

Step 1. Take the dimensions of the room and calculate the number of joists, taking into account the above recommendations. Prepare materials and tools, make markings. Do the work slowly; mistakes made at this stage are extremely Negative consequences. Eliminating them will take a lot of time.

Step 2. Start installing the logs from the outer wall ones. If the room has subfloors, then the logs can be fixed directly to them. To make work easier, it is better to use metal squares with perforations; such elements significantly speed up work and increase the stability of the joists. Using the mark on the wall, taking into account the thickness of the floorboards, align one end of the joist and fix its position.

Practical advice. When installing the outer joists, do not fix them immediately; first, you should only tighten the screws. This will allow you to make final fine adjustments.

Do the same actions at the second end of the log, constantly monitor its level position. Once the lag lays down normally, you can firmly fasten the ends and begin installing intermediate fasteners. The distance between them depends on the thickness of the boards that are used for the logs; it is approximately 70 centimeters.

Step 3. You need to stretch the ropes between the outermost joists; place all the remaining joists along this line. Constantly check with a level; installation accuracy should be ±1–2 mm. There is no point anymore, it takes a lot of extra time. A small difference in height will be removed during finishing of the front surface of the floorboards.

Step 4. If the floors are warm, then you need to lay thermal insulation between the joists; waterproofing and vapor barriers are used to prevent moisture from entering. The distances between the logs must be adjusted taking into account the length and width of the insulation. This can be either mineral wool or polystyrene foam, or bulk types of insulation. If all preparatory work completed, you can begin laying the floorboards.

There are options for installing joists on floor beams. These are so-called ventilated floors and are most often used for non-residential premises. There is no need to be particularly precise; size alignment is done using lags. The logs are attached to the beams with nails or self-tapping screws from the side. The algorithm of work is the same. First, the extreme ones are placed, a rope is pulled between them and all the others are fixed along it.

Ventilation is carried out through special vents in the foundations; the distance between the ground and the floor must be at least fifty centimeters. Otherwise, the air exchange rate does not meet the required indicators, and this causes damage to wooden structures.

Installation of floors on wooden joists on concrete

Such floors are considered more complex, labor-intensive and expensive; all wooden structures must be reliably protected from direct contact with concrete. Otherwise, the structures will quickly become unusable and will have to be replaced prematurely. Eat chemical method protecting lags from rotting processes using various impregnations. They are quite effective and actually prevent the process of wood deterioration. But unfortunately, impregnated wooden structures can no longer be considered environmentally friendly, and it is for this indicator that most developers install natural wooden floors.

If the logs are laid over the entire area on concrete, then waterproofing is required between them.

But they can also be secured using metal squares, which allows you to create a gap between the base and the joist. It must be borne in mind that in this case the load-bearing characteristics of the floor are somewhat reduced.

This fixation method has its advantages. Firstly, direct contact of wooden structures with concrete ones is completely excluded. Secondly, logs can also be installed on a black screed. Using corners, you can eliminate irregularities of several centimeters; there is no need to make a finishing screed. This saves a lot of time and money.

The second method of laying on a concrete screed is to lay the logs directly on it; a material based on modified bitumen is used for insulation.

Laying logs on the ground

The method is used for outbuildings, baths, gazebos, verandas, etc. Wood must be treated with antiseptics. It is better to have a columnar foundation; if you want to make a more durable strip foundation, then it is necessary to provide vents for natural ventilation in advance.

How is this floor made?

Step 1. Remove the topsoil. You can use it to fill the beds or level the area in front of the house.

Step 2. Mark the columns. The distance between them is selected taking into account the load and size of the logs. The posts can be made of concrete, block or prefabricated. The dimensions of the supports are approximately 40x40 cm, the burial depth is within 30 cm. A layer of sand ≈ 10 cm thick should be poured onto the bottom and compacted.

Step 3. Fill the supports with concrete. To prepare concrete, you should use two parts crushed stone and three parts sand for one part of cement. Water is added as needed. There is no need to make formwork in the ground; formwork from boards or OSB scraps is installed above the ground level. During the manufacture of formwork, you need to use a level; all edges must be strictly vertical.

Practical advice. It is much easier to make columns from ready-made blocks. Horizontal alignment must be done along the rope. After the outer ones are aligned with the hydraulic level, a rope is pulled between them. Deviations should not exceed ± 1 cm. This variation is eliminated during installation of the log.

Step 4. Proceed to fixing the lags; you also need to start work from the outermost ones. For precise horizontal alignment, you can use shims. It is not advisable to take wedges made of wood; over time, they will dry out and wobble will appear: the floor will begin to creak unpleasantly when walking. Between wooden structures and concrete surfaces It is imperative to lay two layers of roofing felt for reliable waterproofing.

Step 5. After the outermost logs are laid, a rope is stretched between them and all the remaining ones are laid under it. The logs are fixed with metal squares on dowels and screws. To increase stability, it is recommended to install them on both sides. Floor boards can be laid directly on the joists or a subfloor can be laid first. The final choice depends on the characteristics of the operation and purpose of the room.

Always select joists with a safety margin, especially in cases where the installation method involves bending loads. It must be remembered that correcting mistakes made during the construction of flooring always costs much more than carrying out the work quality materials and in compliance with recommended technologies.

Choose your joist boards carefully. They must be absolutely healthy without signs of rot. The presence of through cracks and rotten knots is completely prohibited. If there are large healthy through knots, then you need to install the joists in such a way that there is a stop under them.

When attaching the logs, do not allow the possibility of wobbling.

Most loose joists cause very unpleasant squeaks in the flooring while walking. To eliminate such phenomena, you will have to remove floor coverings; this is time-consuming and expensive; it is not always possible to keep the dismantled materials in a suitable condition. reuse condition.

Video - Installation of wooden floors along joists

High-quality floor installation on floor slabs ensures comfortable living for people in the room.

Schematic diagram of a wood-chip floor.

Classification of floors is made by type of coating:

• planks;
• parquet;
• linoleum;
• slab.

And by type of structure:

• layered;
• single-layer;
• separate hollow;
• separate empty.

Required tool:

Scheme of the ceiling over the ventilated underground.

• grinder;
• plane;
• hammer;
• trowel;
• cord;
• rule;
• saw;
• fasteners;
• screwdriver;
• roulette.

Layered floor construction

Mainly used in interfloor ceilings. They are made from several layers over colder rooms (basements, garages). A soundproofing layer is laid on the floor slabs, and a hard floor covering is placed on it - piece parquet or parquet panels. Plates are used for sound insulation Fiberboard brand 4, 12, 20.

Single layer construction

This floor is made directly on the floor slabs. If unevenness is detected, it is necessary to make a leveling layer. The material for the construction of a single-layer floor can be linoleum on a bioresistant basis, which is not subject to rotting processes. In rooms with high humidity (toilet, bath), a single-layer floor can be made of ceramic tiles or rubber-based linoleum.

Installation of separate hollow core covering

Diagram of a soundproofing floor.

First, a soundproofing layer is laid over the floor slabs, then the logs are strengthened, and the finished floor material is laid over them: parquet boards, tongue and groove boards or wooden boards. If the room has a continuous flooring made of unplaned boards, then fiberboard slabs are laid on top, the thickness of which must be at least 20 mm. Logs for the construction of a separate hollow-core floor on floor slabs must be planed and treated with an antiseptic. The dimensions of the bars (lag) are 80*40 mm. Depending on the thickness of the floor covering, the distance between the joists is determined. The thinner the material, the more often the bars are laid.

Installation of a separate hollow-core floor

Scheme self-installation floorboard.

It is built on the basis of a monolithic screed made on floor slabs. The screed is made from a mixture of concrete and porous aggregate of class B12.5, density grade D1200, the thickness of the screed should be no more than 40 mm. It can't be leveled cement mortar, irregularities should simply be sanded. Between the monolithic screed and the walls of the room around the perimeter, a gap of 20-30 mm is made, which is filled soundproofing material and is subsequently covered with a plinth.

The outer covering of such a floor can be linoleum, PVC tiles, parquet, laminate parquet, fiberboard or other materials. A layer is placed on top of the screed waterproofing material. It is laid overlapping or the joints are coated with bitumen mortar. Then lay a layer of sound insulation made of mineral wool grade 125-150 up to 60 mm thick, fiberboard boards up to 50 mm thick, sand or expanded clay.

Parquet flooring

Floor arrangement diagram.

Beautiful appearance, low thermal insulation and soundproofing make parquet (parquet boards, parquet panels, piece parquet) a popular material for the construction of floors. The installation of such a floor is possible on a solid plank base, fiberboard slabs, cement-sand screeds. Block parquet floors made in a herringbone pattern with or without friezes look good.

First, you need to mark the rows of coverage to reduce waste. A layer of glassine is laid on the prepared base, and the lighthouse “Christmas tree” is laid on it. Focusing on it, the floor covering is installed with careful connection and fastening of each parquet strip using magpie nails, driving two into the side groove and one into the end groove. The caps are pressed deeper into the material using a hammer.

The installation of block parquet floors on screeds is made using a hot or cold bitumen solution in a “Christmas tree” pattern without friezes. When laying parquet, if necessary, level it using a special parquet planing machine or with a hand plane; After sharpening, baseboards are installed, scraping and sanding of the floor are done. The floor is slightly moistened before scraping. The parquet scraping itself is done inexpensively by a private craftsman. The laid parquet is rubbed with mastic or varnish.

Linoleum floors

Floor insulation diagram for the first floor.

Linoleum is a material used for finishing floors. It has such qualities as strength, durability, resistance to impacts chemical substances, elasticity; it is easy to clean and wash. For all these qualities, the material is very popular among developers. Disadvantages include susceptibility to deformation - expansion, shrinkage, warping and swelling. To prevent their appearance, the linoleum is first kept in a rolled-out state for several days to straighten and take the shape of the floor.

The quality of the base for the flooring significantly affects the quality of the linoleum floor. Possessing elasticity, linoleum is able to absorb even the slightest irregularities. Therefore, the bases must be level, clean, dry and strong. The horizontalness of the base must be checked with a special rod. The bases for linoleum can be screeds made of cement-sand mortar, fiberboard slabs, chipboards, slag concrete, expanded clay concrete and plank floors.

To install a new screed on the floor slabs, it is done sand-cement mortar composition 3:1, which is laid on a rigid and solid preparation layer up to 3 cm and leveled with a rule or a trowel along pre-installed guide rails. The surface of previously made screeds must be clean and smooth. If necessary, the screed can be leveled by laying a new layer of cement-sand mixture with a composition of 1:2. Permissible base humidity is no more than 10%.

The most labor-intensive process is considered to be the process of preparing the bases for gluing linoleum on plank floors made on floor slabs.

Floor sound insulation diagram.

They should be quite tough. The base boards should not sag. Before gluing linoleum, the base of the floor must be well treated: the lumber must be dry, planed, treated with an antiseptic or drying oil. All cracks must be filled, cleaned and primed.

When constructing a base made of fiberboard or chipboard, it is also necessary to ensure the rigidity of the base under the slabs with mandatory grouting of the joints between them. The slabs are screwed to the wooden base of the floor with screws, their caps are well recessed into the material, and to the concrete or cement-sand screed The slabs are glued with hot bitumen. The surface of the fixed slabs is leveled by smoothing out the bulges, sealing the seams with mastic, priming and filling with oil putty. Then lay linoleum.

Ceramic tile floors

For installing floors on floor slabs ceramic tiles First, they make a base - a monolithic screed made of cement with the addition of sand (approximate composition 3:1; 4:1), the installation of which is carried out over a waterproofing layer. When installing a floor on a wooden base, it is necessary to glue hot glue onto the flooring. bitumen mastic waterproofing, then put reinforced mesh and put the solution over it. To install the screed, you should use beacon wooden slats, installed level along the walls of the room. Place the prepared solution between the slats. The horizontality of the screed is checked by the rule, the ends of which must rest on the lighthouse slats. After the solution has hardened, the slats are removed. The remaining grooves are filled with solution.

Scheme of floor covering and insulation.

Before laying the tiles, they must be sorted by size and color. Lay out the floor according to the selected pattern of the future covering, after which you should check the rectangularity of the room with a cord, stretching it diagonally from corner to corner, and then determine the width of the frieze and lay two mutually perpendicular rows according to the pattern dry. The distance between the tiles when laying them should be no more than 2 mm.

If the tiles do not fit completely, they can be cut and laid in a row located closer to the wall. According to the marks made on clean floor, lighthouse tiles are laid. Then corner, intermediate and frieze beacons are installed along the cord and ruler. The prepared mortar is used to seal and lay the first row of tiles. After laying the frieze rows, they begin laying the tiles of the main floor covering pattern. In order not to step on already laid tiles, they begin to be laid from the far wall.

The solution used should be of a plastic consistency, and it is advisable to lay it in an even strip on several rows of tiles at once. Having laid the tile on the mortar, you should slightly settle it with light blows of a trowel or hammer on the block placed on top. Checking the horizontality of laid tiles is carried out as a rule. The seams between them must be free of mortar. Two days after laying the tiles, they are filled with a creamy solution of cement in water, having previously cleaned the surface. The infusion is carried out 2-3 times, as the solution shrinks. Remains of the solution are removed from the surface immediately after completion of work by wiping the tiles with moistened sawdust. Cover the laid tiles with moistened sawdust in a layer of 15-20 cm, and, periodically moistening them, achieve good hardening of the solution.

Installation of laminated parquet floors

Modern building material Laminated parquet is used to cover floors on floor slabs. This is an environmentally friendly coating, reminiscent of wooden parquet, which consists of several layers and is very convenient to use. It is made of dense, waterproof fiberboard boards, covered with a layer that imitates wood. Dimensions of the planks: length – 1.2-1.7 m, width – up to 18 cm, thickness – from 6 to 14 mm. The laminate planks are coated on top with acrylate or melamine resin to protect them from mechanical damage.

Return