It may seem that attaching a balcony to a room is not such a difficult matter. However, people often face a situation where, after glazing the parapet and removing the old door block, the balcony becomes a source of colossal heat loss. Moreover, glaring mistakes are made not only by home craftsmen who decide to cope on their own, but also by hired professional builders. Let's figure out what misconceptions prevent you from doing everything correctly, what pitfalls exist, and how to get around them.
Myth No. 1: A balcony is practical and convenient
If we consider finished projects country cottages, then almost every one of them has a balcony. As practice shows, in the private sector this element of the building is extremely rarely used, especially when it is located on the front side of the facade. People make it and then throw it away. Until a certain point... until the first troubles begin. The wall near the slab freezes and gets wet, the materials on the street gradually deteriorate (the surface of the site crumbles, the fences rust), wooden door It dries out and begins to seep through it.
Important! The balcony stationary slab is tied to the outer wall of the building; it goes directly into the room at floor level and is a huge bridge of cold. In a private house, it makes sense to build a balcony made of wood; it is advisable to use hinged and attached structures with support columns.
Approximately the same horrors are observed in an apartment in a high-rise building. But if in the private sector the owner can, by a strong-willed decision, completely abandon the construction of a balcony, then in a high-rise building people have nowhere to go, they have to do something. It turns out that the balcony is one of the most problem areas, it’s definitely the same in an apartment. It turns out that the home owner has additional structures “on his balance sheet,” moreover, external ones, which should be protected from wind, snow, rain, and the scorching rays of the sun. Every season something needs to be tinted, lubricated, adjusted, etc.
So, the designs open balcony They need regular careful maintenance, but some of the problems can be eliminated by glazing and insulation. The implementation of an insulated balcony is akin to a miniature construction site, since you will need to build/assemble walls, create a roof (on the topmost floor), and take care of heating and electricity.
Myth No. 2: Any translucent structure can be used for glazing
In fact, there are two types of glazing: warm and cold. Frameless and most sliding structures are elements of cold glazing - if the balcony remains a space isolated from the rooms. The warm option is used when the area is attached to the room. For such purposes, only the most technologically advanced products are suitable, which are distinguished by the greatest resistance to heat transfer, because windows will be the main enclosing structures, and their area is quite large.
Most aluminum systems here cannot provide normal thermal insulation; it is better to give preference, for example, to wooden structures (modern ones, of course). However best characteristics For energy saving, PVC windows are shown on the balcony. But these should be models with a multi-chamber (5-6 chambers, total frame width from 80 mm) profile, which allow the use of filling with two-chamber bags and corresponding sandwiches (from 32 mm). Obviously, double-glazed windows must be used with maximum thermal insulation capacity - that is, with three glasses in which argon and special spraying are used.
Important! Swing systems with several sealing contours have proven themselves to be the best for insulation. Sliding models (as well as frameless solutions) usually do not provide sufficient thermal insulation and tightness, although there are so-called tilt-slide and tilt-slide systems that have quite a decent level of energy efficiency.
As for the configuration and configuration of the glazing, it is worth mentioning the mandatory use of some standard components, which in all respects correspond to the tasks assigned to the insulation. These include:
- corner connection profiles(has chambers and allows you not to build a supporting frame);
- straight H-shaped connecting profiles (allows you to fill a long opening with several frames, has cameras and elastic seals);
- stand elements (makes it possible to insulate the floor);
- expanders (allows you to insulate the ceiling and blank walls).
To increase heat transfer resistance, the cavities of these components can be filled with mineral wool or polyurethane foam.
You need to understand that even the highest quality glazing has relatively small thermal insulation properties. Therefore, it is better to assemble a massive or frame parapet around the perimeter of the slab and insulate it, and install windows from the solid fence to the ceiling. If the PVC balcony structure is still chosen “from floor to ceiling”, then it is not necessary to fill all the frames with double-glazed windows; in some openings it will be more effective to install a warmer sandwich (PVC+EPS+PVC) - for example, on the end walls of the balcony, the lower part ram.
Myth #3: Anyone is enough modern insulation layer of 3-5 centimeters
Insufficient thickness of the thermal insulation layer is the most common mistake. It may seem that since the area of the balcony is relatively small, it would not be logical to “eat up” it with thick enclosing elements. But, if you make simple calculations (see the article on calculating the thickness of thermal insulation), it becomes clear that minimum layer additional insulation will be 100-120 mm, and sometimes even 150-180. It is clear that the polyethylene foam canvases so beloved by domestic craftsmen will not cope with the assigned tasks. Here you definitely need to apply:
- basalt wool;
- Styrofoam;
- or extruded polystyrene foam.
Moreover, of all the options for density/thermal conductivity, it is worth giving preference to the most effective ones (thermal conductivity coefficient from 0.040 W/(m*K) and below), which will allow for high-quality insulation and will still help save usable space.
Myth No. 4: The ceiling and floor need not be insulated
Sometimes you hear that a property owner does not want to spend money on thermal insulation of some elements of a balcony/loggia, since “the neighbors above and below also have glazed balconies.” But we cannot know what level of thermal insulation is implemented there; maybe there is no insulation in the structures at all, and cold glazing was used. Even if it turns out that the neighbors insulated properly, there is no guarantee that over time these or other residents will not change their minds and change something.
Also, do not forget that, as we have already noted, this is a powerful bridge of cold: a concrete balcony slab with its three ends faces the street. Therefore, in winter it freezes easily, and this happens all the more intensely if it is reliably fenced off from neighbors. heating system layer of heat insulator. That is, it does not warm up and cools even faster; this cold from the balcony will definitely go into your apartment.
Important! Due to the freezing of the massive element at the end, the blank walls of the loggias, even those isolated from the side of the adjacent apartment, are also subject to full insulation.
Myth No. 5: First of all, the frames are assembled, and then the insulation is laid
Frame cladding is indeed the best option for finishing a balcony that is exposed to additional insulation, after all wet method Bonded thermal insulation, as on the facade, seems to many to be too impractical indoors - for example, overly susceptible to squeezing. However, when assembling frames, craftsmen make the same mistake - first they install the subsystem close to the load-bearing base, and then attach polystyrene foam or stone wool. As a result, the thermal insulation layer breaks, and cold stripes are obtained, which are clearly visible when examining the frame with a thermal imager. It turns out especially bad if you use metal profiles instead of wooden blocks. Wood is preferable here; such insulation is, of course, better than nothing, but freezing is possible.
Important! The insulation, be it polystyrene foam or cotton wool, must be inserted behind the frame elements and the sheets joined tightly to each other and to the load-bearing elements. If foam plastic and EPS, such as penoplex, are used as an insulator, then it is recommended to foam the joints and gaps. When using direct hangers, they must be drilled in advance and secured to the base through thermal insulating gaskets, and the insulation can only then be placed on them by piercing (most likely, you will need elongated U-shaped brackets).
Myth No. 6: Moisture on the balcony is not particularly scary
Just exactly the opposite. There can be a lot of unpleasant options when water, during the operation of an insulated balcony/loggia, can get where it is not needed. The greatest danger is slanting rain. The glazed balcony is a prefabricated structure with a large number of elements and connections various materials. Water can get into the insulating layer through poor-quality connections, which then ceases to perform an insulating function. Most often, leakage is observed in the area where the frames meet the top and bottom slabs, if the ebbs/canopies are not installed correctly.
Important! It is mandatory and in a special way to use metal or plastic visors. The top one should be fixed to the slab, and the bottom one to the frame. Installation gaps must be filled with quality foam. By the way, we must not forget about the area where the frames meet and the outer wall of the house; very often they “forget” to use strips that protect the foam from both water and ultraviolet radiation.
If you need to make a roof, then you cannot do without a corner that will cover the junction of the roofing material and the wall. It is best to use a Z-shaped galvanized profile with polymer coating, which with one shelf crashes into the wall. Also, if the humidity in the rooms sometimes rises too much, then it is recommended to cover the insulation from the inside with vapor barrier films and glue the panels with tape.
Myth No. 7: A radiator from under a window can be moved to the balcony parapet without any problems
For a number of reasons, this is not the most reasonable solution. If, after removing the balcony door block, the part of the wall on which the battery hung is also dismantled, then heating device It is better to install it on the side wall of the balcony. Even if you transfer to the front wall, you will have to install the supply and return lines open method. It is dangerous to lay the pipeline in the floor, as on almost any winter day, the pipes located in the thickness of the insulation can be thawed and damaged by destruction if the heating is stopped for even a day.
Perhaps the most practical and in a safe way The glazed balcony will be heated by electric heated floors. For example, implemented using self-regulating cables, rods or infrared film, which can be placed directly under finishing coat floor.
In an effort to maximize the use of all available housing space, apartment owners increasingly began to reconsider functional purpose loggia and balcony. So, if you want to expand the area of the room, it is combined with a loggia. If there is a desire to increase the number of rooms, the loggia or balcony is properly decorated.
In both situations, ensuring the insulation of the balcony (loggia) is a top priority, since, otherwise, there is a threat of losing up to 50% of the heat of the home. The best option for obtaining high-quality thermal insulation is an integrated approach, which includes insulating the balcony from the outside and, partially, from the inside. Moreover, external work plays a fundamental role.
Specially trained people must insulate the balcony from the outside
Advantages and disadvantages of external insulation of a balcony or loggia
The main disadvantage specified type work is necessary, in the case of work at the height of an apartment building, to involve professional climbers. It is impossible to independently insulate a balcony or loggia from the outside without proper experience. Therefore, if you want to ensure thermal insulation of the premises, you should immediately set aside the amount to pay employees.
With the exception of obstacles in the form of the danger of independent work, insulating balconies from the outside has only positive aspects. These include:
- Greater degree of thermal insulation (external insulation retains up to 10% more heat than internal insulation alone).
- Preserving the internal space of a loggia or balcony.
- Natural temperature transition.
- Lack of condensation, and, consequently, the threat of dampness and rotting processes.
- The ability to transform the appearance of the entire structure.
Can be used as insulation different materials. Each of them has its own advantages and disadvantages.
Materials used for external insulation of balconies
As a material for creating thermal insulation with outside balcony, used:
- Sandwich panels.
- Mineral wool.
- Polystyrene foam (expanded polystyrene).
Sandwich panels are a fairly expensive and heavy material. Therefore, it can only be used in those structures where the balcony can withstand significant weight.
The most common in construction are the last two from the list of insulation materials. At the same time, mineral wool is more natural and environmentally friendly pure material, it is light in weight and easy to use. However, mineral wool easily crumbles and its installation is accompanied by a large amount of dust hazardous to health.
Among its disadvantages is also low resistance to moisture, which can lead to rotting processes.
Foam sheets, like mineral wool, have the advantages of low weight and ease of installation. At the same time, it practically does not crumble when cut and is not afraid of moisture.
One of the materials used for external insulation is polystyrene foam.
Principles of external insulation of a balcony (loggia)
There are two main directions on how to insulate a balcony from the outside. This is the provision of high-quality glazing and installation of a layer of insulation material on the parapet and side walls of the structure.
Separately, each of the listed procedures does not give the desired effect, so they must be combined with each other. Thus, the process of insulating a balcony from the outside will have the following algorithm:
- Preparatory work.
- Glazing works.
- Installation work of the insulating layer.
- Installation outer skin balcony
Under preparatory work This means the complete cleansing of a balcony or loggia from furniture and other foreign objects. Although most of the work is carried out outside, to complete next stages free space may be needed. In addition, when installing the insulating layer, a large number of dust and it is better if it does not accumulate on interior items.
Due to their tightness and low weight, metal-plastic double-glazed windows are ideal for glazing. Their installation must be carried out before starting installation of thermal insulation.
Insulation installation work
Before starting the direct installation of insulation and subsequent cladding, it is important to check the parapet and side walls of the balcony or loggia for damage (chips, cracks, etc.) and repair, if any, using foam glue or putty. Then, having treated the surface with a primer, they begin to attach the hangers on which the sheathing will be installed, if this is planned.
Then the frame for the insulating layer is installed. The frame consists of wooden beams, the thickness of which depends on the thickness of the insulation itself. The beams are fastened across the parapet in half-meter increments.
Important! Before starting work, the beams must be treated with a water-repellent impregnation intended for external works. This will save the frame from negative impact environment.
When the frame is completed, it is the turn of the insulation itself. Mineral wool or polystyrene foam is cut into pieces commensurate with the frame compartments and mounted to the wall using dowels and a special mounting adhesive. The seams between the improvised slabs, as well as the places where the dowels are attached, are patched polyurethane foam.
Next, at the request of the customer, the formed surface is covered or plastered. Eurolining, PVC panels or other can be attached to pre-mounted metal hangers Decoration Materials. The most simple option is plastering and painting the walls of the balcony.
You can complete the finishing of an insulated balcony by strengthening the corrugated sheeting
Such a simple step as insulating the balcony from the outside not only allows you to expand the living space of the apartment by several square meters, but also significantly reduces heat loss from the home during the cold season. At minimum costs for materials and labor, the owner receives both living space and cost savings due to the absence of the need for additional heating.
Installation outdoor system insulation is not just about creating comfortable conditions for living and working. A competent outside allows you to expand the possibilities of its use. The costs of the event are recouped by reducing the cost of energy resources (heating), extending the life of the door and window system, reducing the risk of colds among family members.
With your own hands or with the help of professionals?
This is the first question that needs to be addressed when planning an outdoor space. Doing the work yourself is only possible if the apartment is located on the 1st or 2nd floor.
Trying to secure thermal insulation to the fence while hanging over the balcony parapet of the upper floors is dangerous for the life of the work performer. In addition, such working conditions will not make it possible to meet all the requirements of construction technologies.
Important! Industrial climbers should not be involved in installing insulation outside if you plan plastering work! In this case, it is necessary to contact companies that have scaffolding and lifts in their arsenal.
To carry out the work yourself, you will need not only consumables and tools, but also stepladders, scaffolding, and scaffolding. These devices can be purchased or rented. It is better to choose them after drawing up a work plan: it is more convenient to navigate the requirements - height, size of the working platform, the presence of additional accessories (bucket hook, tool box).
Work planning
When insulating a balcony, you need to choose high-quality material.
Before you begin choosing the material and technology for its fastening, you need to visit your Management Company, architectural department of the local administration or BTI.
This will help save time, stress and money in the future. Installation external thermal insulation makes changes to the configuration of a high-rise building and the operation of common building systems. The minimum that a violator can face is a fine. Or you will have to give the balcony its original appearance at your own expense.
Material selection
Composition selection thermal insulation system is determined not only by the characteristics of the materials - thermal conductivity, moisture resistance, but also by their weight. Balcony structures They are not designed for serious additional loads, so it is recommended to insulate them yourself with polystyrene foam and mineral wool materials.
For the same reason, you may have to abandon metal-plastic glazing - it’s hard. You can install a wooden double-glazed window or an aluminum profile.
Planning
Time and material costs for developing the project - the services of professionals may be required to assess the condition of the balcony structure; they will pay off during the work and during further operation.
When you insulate the balcony from the outside, do not forget about your safety.
Included in the cost estimate, in addition to the cost Supplies costs should include:
- tools and devices;
- individual protection means;
- fare;
- waste removal and disposal.
To avoid injury to bystanders, the work area should be fenced off - twine, rope with flags, red rags.
Purchasing building materials and tools from one company will provide the opportunity to take advantage of additional discounts not only on purchases, but also on transport services.
Stages of work
Work begins with the preparation of the construction site - installation of fencing, scaffolding, scaffolding, stepladders. Then the fence is thoroughly cleaned of debris and dirt from the outside and inside. If necessary, repair and restoration work is carried out.
Insulation with polystyrene foam or mineral wool is carried out after the glazing is installed.
The fence is treated with a primer. Metal rods are completely coated with an anti-corrosion compound.
The further course is determined depending on the type of fence - concrete, brick, iron grating.
Regardless of whether the balcony will be insulated with mineral wool or polystyrene foam, they should be protected from external moisture and internal fumes.
Important! You should definitely take care of the ventilation of the insulated balcony - a window, a ventilation hole (closed in the winter). For a heated room, it is possible to provide for the installation of a separate ventilation system(air duct), forced ventilation(fan).
After preparing the base, you can begin installing the vapor barrier (mineral wool). In the case of foam insulation, it is attached directly to the sheathing or to the pre-leveled surface of the fence.
Important! For vertical mounting You cannot use rolled mineral wool, only slabs! The insulation is released from the packaging in advance so that it has time to straighten out.
This work is best done when the weather is good outside.
The insulation is laid as tightly as possible, the seams are sealed with construction tape and putty (if insulated with foam plastic). Two layers of insulation, laid overlapping the joints of the previous row, are more effective than one layer of material of the same thickness.
Then a moisture-proof film is installed. The use of modern membranes will avoid serious problems with dew point.
Material finishing- any sheet materials, plaster.
A responsible event that requires accuracy, patience, skills in working with building materials. It is better to do the work yourself in the warm season, on windless, dry days.
Today's balcony in many apartments turns into a full-fledged room, functional space. This is especially true for small apartments, whose residents appreciate every centimeter. If the balcony is insulated, it becomes an office, storage room, resting place, mini greenhouse, dining room or additional sleeping area. There are many options for using it. The main thing is to do the work on its insulation efficiently. Only in this case will the balcony be warm and cozy.
Features and Benefits
In the warm season, the whole family can relax on the balcony, but when autumn comes, this room becomes useless. If you insulate it, the situation will change. The advantage is that all the planned work can be easily done independently. Additionally warm room is a space in which it is easy to create a small work corner or relaxation area. In addition, the presence of a warm balcony will automatically make the apartment more comfortable and warmer. You can attach a living room or a kitchen to it, depending on its location. This will create additional space.
Before doing any insulation or glazing, you should consult a specialist. He will definitely tell you what load he can withstand warm balcony, is it worth strengthening it? If the basis is a powerful concrete slab, the question of amplification does not arise. But the metal parapet must be strengthened with foam blocks or light bricks from ceramic material. The same should be done in case of weak fastening of the reinforced concrete base.
Double-glazed windows can be used for insulation wooden frames. They are environmentally friendly, allow windows to “breathe”, but are expensive. Aluminum windows insulated with polyamide inlays increase the thermal insulation of the room. The most optimal would be to equip PVC windows with double glazing that will reliably retain heat.
Such windows are cheaper than wooden ones, but at the same time their thermal insulation is not inferior to aluminum ones.
What materials are better to choose
Today there are many types of finishing materials for finishing balconies or loggias, with the help of which they give even the smallest room an original and attractive look. The main thing is to do right choice finishing material. For insulation, experts recommend using cork, plastic panels, lining with wooden or plastic base, drywall, plaster, MDF panels, decorative rock, aluminum profile, penoplex, expanded polystyrene, penofol.
Mineral wool, foam finishing - perfect solution For self-insulation rooms.
In the case of an uninsulated balcony, it is better to give preference artificial stone, plastic frost-resistant lining, cork panels or tiles. Most often used for finishing following materials:
Drywall
- This material is distinguished by the fact that it is based on no toxic substances, it is easy to process and is combined in design with other finishing materials. Drywall can be plastered, painted, wallpapered, paneled and clapboarded. With the help of this universal material It’s enough to simply turn a balcony into a full-fledged living room.
PVC panels
- A practical solution, but it is better not to use this material if the constant temperature on the balcony is below five degrees. This problem can be solved with the help of frost-resistant panels developed using new technologies. This material is not afraid of moisture, but can quickly lose color from direct sunlight. This point should be taken into account if the room is located on the south side. Advantages: low cost, fast easy installation using glue.
Cork panels
- They create coziness that cannot be achieved using other finishing materials. Cork panels are pressed bark of the cork oak tree. Cork panels are easy to install and are suitable for any type of balcony, regardless of the room temperature level. Cork panel does not absorb foreign odors, including the smell of tobacco. The disadvantage of the material is the high price. Inexpensive penoplex is also used for insulation; mineral wool is also perfect.
How to properly insulate a balcony with your own hands: step-by-step instructions
A balcony in a city apartment is a special space. This piece of the house, taken out under open sky, can become an office, a greenhouse or a relaxation corner, you just need to glaze and insulate it.
Insulating a balcony with your own hands will save a lot of money. The cladding in a panel house, in a Khrushchev-era building, is done taking into account the characteristics of the apartment and the building.
- Step 1. To begin with, the old frames are dismantled, the surface is prepared and things are taken out. Insulation from the inside - important stage the whole process.
- Step 2. At the second stage it is necessary to glaze the balcony. The best option there will be windows plastic pvc. Many people prefer to leave the old wooden frames. However, remember that even if wooden structures are in good condition, they will not be able to organize the same heat conservation. There are cracks in the wood, so doing insulation in this situation is pointless.
- Step 3. After the plastic windows are installed, you can begin to insulate the floor. Be prepared for the floor to be higher. Take this into account if the ceiling in the room is low.
- Step 4. Wall covering is carried out after installing windows and insulating the floor. The walls on the balcony are the side walls, except the main one. On final stage insulation, finishing work is carried out. The choice of materials depends on the budget. During the finishing process they are installed window slopes overlooking the balcony.
Required tools and materials
- In order to insulate a balcony or loggia, you will need the following tools: a hacksaw or stationery knife; roulette; level; pencil, marker or any other writing instrument; tool for applying glue - brush, spatula, etc.; other tools. The materials you need are glue and insulation itself. In addition, you will need a vapor barrier film and a windproof membrane.
A frame structure will also be required. In this case you will need wooden beams, as well as nails to secure them. You may also need special fasteners - nails with very wide heads. They are used when polystyrene is not attached using glue.
Insulation inside
- High-quality thermal insulation combined with double-glazed windows turns the balcony into a living space. It is necessary to insulate not only the walls, but also the floor and ceiling. Materials for insulation must be durable, lightweight, and safe for humans. Due to precipitation and condensation, the walls of the balcony can become damp and moldy, which means that hydro- and vapor barrier is needed.
These requirements are best met by polystyrene foam: traditional polystyrene foam and Penoplex thermal insulation boards. The first one is very light, compressive, and waterproof. Penoplex is insulation made from extruded polystyrene foam. Its strength and durability are superior to conventional foam, and its shape makes it easy to install in the clutch and provides perfect insulation. Sheathing a balcony with slabs can be done both inside and outside.
Insulation of a closed balcony begins with preparing the surface. It is necessary to carefully cover the cracks and joints between the floor, walls and parapet with polyurethane foam without toluene in the composition. Metal structures need to be cleaned of rust and coated oil paint and treat with a construction antiseptic.
Before laying the insulation, windows and doors are installed. Window sills and slopes are mounted on last stage works Balcony glazing depends on the parapet. If it is only a metal sheathing, it needs to be built up with ceramic (lightweight) bricks or foam blocks. The thickness should not exceed ten centimeters. To protect the foam blocks, at the finishing stage they are covered with corrugated sheeting.
Floor
Can be installed on a reinforced concrete parapet window designs immediately, using various installation and sealing compounds. Metal-plastic windows They have excellent characteristics; when installed skillfully, they reliably protect the balcony and look aesthetically pleasing. When choosing a model, you should choose swing frames with double glazing.
Floor
- In order to insulate the floor, you can resort to two different directions: Make it warm or keep it warm. We are talking about installing a heated floor system, for example, electric. Installing a water system on a balcony is very inconvenient and almost impossible, but installing an electric or film system is easy to do.
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It all starts with preparation. A waterproofing film is laid on the floor under the tiles, protecting the floor from moisture from the outside. Next, the sheathing is arranged. Instead of logs, a timber five centimeters thick is used. If you do not want to raise the floor too much relative to the old covering, it is better to use low-height timber. A square beam of 50×50 mm is ideal. The beams are laid every 40-60 cm.
To prevent moisture from entering the insulation from the inside, it is covered with a vapor barrier film. It is laid on top of the beams and attached to them using construction stapler. For internal fastening, a fastening step of 50 cm is sufficient so as not to create unnecessary holes in the film. Polystyrene must be protected from moisture on all sides. Therefore, it is better to lay the film overlapping on the walls. All gaps between beams and walls should be sealed with the same insulation material or polyurethane foam.
Walls
- Many people do not insulate the walls, believing that the cold from the side of the house does not reach the balcony. In many ways this is true, but work needs to be done. The walls themselves are not sources of cold, but the joints between them and the side walls of the balcony can be. For this reason, all work can only consist of installing penofol, which is vapor-tight and thin. It will protect the walls from icing and condensation entering the balcony.
- Ceiling. If we are talking about a private house, then it is best to make a special roof structure. Recommended to do pitched roof, the slope of which is directed away from the house. The roof is made of rafters and sheathing. A waterproofing film is attached on top of it. Attached to film roofing material, and waterproofing on top of double-sided vapor barrier film, absorbent side inward. The bottom of the rafters is hemmed with a vapor-permeable windproof membrane.
The floor slab, that is, the horizontal part, must have several layers at once: insulation; vapor barrier layer; load-bearing beams with interior decoration. The device begins with the installation of the frame, namely rafter system. Next, a double-sided vapor barrier membrane is attached to it using the specified method. Then a sheathing is installed and a waterproofing layer is laid. You can use classic roofing felt or special polyvinyl chloride films.
- Insulation from outside. In order to insulate a balcony from the outside yourself, you will need skills. Do it yourself quality work, taking into account the characteristics of the building is not easy. Finishing the outside means saving up to thirty percent on heating costs. Remember that external work is fraught with some difficulties: if the balcony is located above the second floor, then industrial climbers will have to be involved in the work.
Before you begin insulation, obtain the consent of officials from the architecture department. The appearance of the balcony can spoil the overall picture, but if you finish it in the same style as the entire building, you can get permission. Insulation from the outside has a number of advantages:
- the reinforced concrete slab remains warm, moist air from the room passes freely through it and is released into the atmosphere;
- saving usable area;
- you can install a layer of thermal insulation of any thickness, this will not affect the internal space balcony
The materials can be used the same as for internal works. Preference is given to sprayed thermal insulation, as it is the lightest and most effective. Experts recommend using polystyrene foam or expanded polystyrene. Mineral wool is sensitive to moisture, so its installation requires special care and precision.
The independent procedure for insulating a balcony is complex. All stages must be performed to a high level, otherwise the room will not be completely insulated. A glass, panoramic, stained glass balcony is an excellent solution for small space. Designers advise connecting it to a room for expansion. Glazed balcony, connected to the kitchen on top floor- a luxurious solution.
Using a balcony (loggia) as an additional room with functions that are not typical for it - as a greenhouse, kitchen, recreation area or study in last years has become almost universal. With the advent of PVC structures, which make it possible to quickly and efficiently perform glazing with 2-3-layer double-glazed windows, which perfectly retains heat, insulating a balcony from the outside or inside with your own hands can quite successfully solve these problems.
But a balcony (loggia) is a small room. Therefore, high-quality insulation, especially in the northern regions, leads to a critical reduction in its area due to the thickness of the insulation and finishing materials.
There is a need for external insulation, which allows not only to save space but also to solve a number of technical problems associated with moving the “dew point” beyond the perimeter of the balcony area.
In this article we will tell you how to insulate a balcony from the outside.
External insulation: pros and cons
When talking about insulating a balcony with your own hands from the outside, with the exception of balconies located on the very upper floors, it is impossible to insulate the entire balcony (loggia) from the outside. In the vast majority of cases, we are talking about external insulation of the balcony parapet and (in very rare cases), external insulation balcony slab, serving as a “roof” for the balconies of the upper floors.
Among the advantages of external insulation, two main ones can be distinguished:
- Saving balcony space.
- Assignment of the “dew point” to outer surface parapet fencing, one hundred helps to avoid condensation and mold formation on the balcony.
The disadvantages of external insulation are:
- The need to coordinate work on external insulation and changes in the design and appearance of the building facade with architectural, construction and housing and communal services authorities.
- Obtaining permission to carry out work.
- The need to attract specialists - industrial climbers or special equipment - aerial platforms.
- Limitation on the choice of materials for insulation.
- Significant increase in the cost of insulation work.
Preparatory stage of work
Before starting work on insulating the parapet of a balcony (loggia) from the outside with your own hands, it is necessary to assess the volume of work to be done, the condition of the material from which the parapet is made, and calculate the cost of the work, taking into account the involvement of industrial climbers or the rental of special equipment. If the calculations received do not scare you and we are not talking about the price or the time spent on obtaining permission from regulatory authorities to make changes to the design and appearance facade of the building - then let's get to work!
We have already written in an article dedicated to the difficulties associated with making changes to the external building envelope small balcony and the facade of the building. In addition to the lack of Russian legislation regulatory documents that would provide for such a possibility and make such insulation legal, it will still be necessary to coordinate the work with the owners of the apartment building, since the external walls and structures are the joint property of all owners of the apartment building.
Unauthorized changes entail not only dissatisfaction with neighbors, but the obligation to restore the façade structures to their previous form at your own expense.
If you receive necessary permissions succeeded, then you can begin to carry out work.
Strengthening the parapet structure
The balcony parapet can be:
- Metal - from corrugated sheets, rods, metal strips, pipes - in old houses.
- From reinforced concrete slabs of “light” concrete - in panel houses starting from episode 121.
- Made of brick - in most modern brick or monolithic-frame residential buildings.
The material from which the parapet is made plays a significant role in the choice of not only the insulation material, but also its thickness and installation methods.
If the balcony parapet is made of corrugated sheeting or metal welded structures, preliminary covering of this metal structure from the side of the balcony (loggia) will be required - otherwise the metal “ribs” of the corrugated board will ruin the entire appearance of the insulated balcony and will serve as “bridges” of cold that will negate all your efforts.
In addition to installing an internal screen that will hide metal structures (made of chipboard, plasterboard, PVC siding, plywood), it will be necessary to create a layer of insulation that would completely hide the elements of metal structures, otherwise winter period they will freeze and the cost of heating the balcony (loggia) will be excessive.
If the parapet is made of reinforced concrete slabs or bricks, everything is much simpler - no additional work will be required to change the design of the parapet.
Material selection
Considering that the balcony structure is remote in 90% of cases, that is, it protrudes beyond the facade of the building (with the exception of recessed loggias), it experiences increased wind loads and the effects of precipitation.
Therefore, as insulation it is necessary to choose a material that is resistant to street moisture.
The best in this regard are penoplex, polystyrene foam or sprayed polyurethane foam. It is undesirable to use mineral wool as insulation.
It is hygroscopic - it absorbs and retains moisture well, it is heavy, inconvenient to work with and requires obligatory lathing. Therefore, it is better to abandon the idea of insulating the balcony from the outside with mineral wool.
Quite rarely used in DIY insulation of balconies and loggias, polyurethane foam is an ideal insulation material for balcony parapets made of welded metal structures or corrugated sheets. Due to the “flow around” foamed polyurethane, everything metal constructions(corrugated sheet ribs) are immersed in the insulation and do not form “cold bridges”.
In addition, applying such insulation to corrugated sheets does not require the installation of any retaining structures. The only “disadvantage” is the high price. Both the insulation itself and the cost of applying it. It is unlikely that you will be able to perform such insulation with your own hands.
But, but if you decide to rent special vehicles or a team of industrial climbers in order to insulate your balcony from the outside, then the costs of applying PPU compared to specified works will be insignificant.
Insulation with foam plastic or penotex
Insulation of the outer wall of the parapet of a balcony or loggia does not require additional waterproofing, since moisture condensation does not occur on external wall, foam plastic or penotex slabs can be glued to the outer surface of the parapet using any moisture-resistant adhesive construction mastic applied to the surface of the insulation slab with a comb spatula. The glued slabs are additionally fixed with dowels-“fungi” with a wide head.
Considering that the thickness of a foam or penotex slab rarely exceeds 50 mm. You don’t have to install a sheathing to fasten the sheathing - the outer decorative screen, which will cover the insulation from the outside (unless it is PVC siding, which needs guides into which individual siding elements are inserted).
Sheathing – (corrugated sheeting, waterproof plasterboard, sheet metal siding, cellular polycarbonate or other waterproof sheet materials) with which you decide to decorate the facade of your balcony from the outside, can be mounted on anchors 100-150 mm long, holes for which are drilled through the insulation and the outer parapet fencing.
The length of the anchor should not exceed the total thickness of the parapet fence and insulation, so as not to protrude inside the balcony.
Let's sum it up
Despite some savings in balcony space when insulating a balcony (loggia) externally, it is quite problematic to do the entire amount of work with your own hands. This is due to the need to use special equipment (aerial platform) or safety equipment (climbing equipment). All this leads to an unreasonable increase in the cost of insulating a balcony (loggia). Before you start performing such work, think more than once whether the saved 0.5 sq. m. is worth it. m of balcony area, the investment of such significant funds and headaches with collecting the necessary bureaucratic permits?