Private low-rise construction V last years is becoming more and more popular.
Country houses and country houses, built with their own hands, occupy an increasingly large share of the total volume of housing put into operation.
The most popular material in private construction is wood, due to its affordable cost and ease of processing. But not all individual developers have sufficient experience and knowledge to independently carry out the full range of construction work. So, the question often arises of how to properly lay the floor of the second floor in compliance with all construction standards and technologies.
Construction requirements for wooden floors
In order to install a durable and safe wooden floor between the 1st and 2nd floors with your own hands, you must strictly comply with the technical requirements for them.
Thermal insulation layer
Thermal insulation of the floor will improve the temperature in the room on the second floor If wooden floor will separate the upper and lower rooms with a temperature difference between them of more than 10 ° C, it will be necessary to construct a thermal insulation layer.
This is necessary, for example, when arranging floors between the first floor and the subfloor, basement, or between the first/second floor and an uninsulated attic.
Beam strength
Beams and floors must withstand up to 180 kg/sq.m load When constructing the floor of the second floor on wooden beams, care should be taken Special attention strength of supporting structures. The safety of the building depends on how strong the wooden floor beams are.
According to building standards for wooden low-rise buildings, the maximum load on the floors of the first floor should not exceed 210 kg per sq.m., the pressure on the wooden floor of the second floor should not exceed 180 kg/sq.m., and for attics and attics this figure should be less than 105 kg/sq.m.
Maximum deflection
In addition, building regulations also impose requirements on the deflection values of wooden floor beams. According to SNiP, this coefficient should not exceed 1 to 250. That is, the maximum deflection of wooden load-bearing structures during operation should be less than 4 mm per meter of beam length. 
According to this standard, deflection beam structure 4 m long in the center should not be more than 1.6 cm (4 m: 250 = 0.016 m). If you plan to place massive furniture in the room and household appliances, flooring as a floor covering tiles etc., then the requirements for structural rigidity increase to 1 to 400.
That is, the deflection should not exceed 2.5 mm per meter. For non-residential attics and attics, a higher deflection coefficient is allowed - 1 to 200 (5 mm per 1 meter).
Soundproofing
Fifty-millimeter mineral wool will not only insulate the floor, but will also become a good sound insulator According to building regulations, the sound insulation threshold for interfloor ceilings residential buildings should be 50 dB.
To meet this requirement, it will be sufficient to cover the floor of the second floor under the finishing coating with mineral wool 50 mm thick.
The length of the beam should be no more than 5 m Maximum permissible length free sag of wooden beams should not exceed 5 m for interfloor and 6 m for attic floors. If the design length of the room is more than 5 m, it will be necessary to install additional support under the load-bearing beam. The fact is that the optimal length of a load-bearing wooden structure is 4 m.
With a further increase in its length, rigidity and strength sharply decrease load-bearing structure and the requirements for the thickness of the beam section increase disproportionately. So, in order for the deflection indicators for an 8 m beam to “fit” into SNiP standards, its thickness should be about 40 cm. For example: the same deflection indicator is shown by a 4 m beam with a cross section of only 15 x 15 cm.
Wood is a material quite vulnerable to external influences, primarily dampness and fire, therefore, before proceeding with the construction of load-bearing structures, all wooden elements must be treated with antiseptic materials and fire retardants.
Construction material
Before you begin installing the floor on the second floor using wooden beams, you should make a list of all the necessary materials. This will allow you to avoid unexpected downtime and delays during work caused by the need to purchase additional building materials.
Beams
A beam section of 15 x 15 will be sufficient The basis of the entire structure of interfloor wooden floors is beams. They act as load-bearing elements, and the strength of the structure depends on them. For them, a beam or carriage with a section of 15 x 15 cm or 18 x 18 cm is usually taken.
This cross-section is usually enough to provide sufficient rigidity for a specific load of 400 kg per sq.m. In this case, it is necessary to comply with the parameters recommended by construction standards: the span length is 4 m, and the step between the beams is 60 cm. Based on these parameters, you can also calculate the required amount of timber.
| № | Span length (mm) | Beam cross section (mm) |
|---|---|---|
| 1 | 2000 | 75×150 |
| 2 | 2500 | 100×150 |
| 3 | 3000 | 100×175 |
| 4 | 3500 | 125×175 |
| 5 | 4000 | 125×200 |
| 6 | 4500 | 150×200 |
| 7 | 5000 | 150×225 |
However, in the absence of timber and small values of the expected loads on the floor, it is quite possible to use boards 50 or 40 mm thick, knocked together in pairs and placed on edge. This option is suitable for installing floors in an attic or in a small country house.
For the first floor of a residential building, this option is not suitable due to the small bearing capacity boards: to ensure the necessary rigidity, the pitch between the board beams will have to be significantly reduced, which will lead to an unjustified waste of material.
Pine is most often used as a material for beams. This is the best option in terms of price-quality: its wood is quite affordable and at the same time has good technical characteristics.
Beams made from wood of stronger species (larch, oak) can rarely be found on the open market, and their price is incomparably higher, and pine wood, after appropriate treatment with antiseptics, will be little inferior in durability to the same larch.
When purchasing timber, you should choose a material with dry wood. Otherwise, after installation of the beams, they may become deformed during the drying process - bending and twisting.
Flooring
Wood flooring, laid on the beams will be a rough foundation under flooring
Typically, the flooring of interfloor floors is two-tiered: below are subfloors, on which insulation is laid, and on top is a pre-finish flooring mounted on top of the load-bearing beams. Decorative flooring is laid directly on it.
To determine the nature and amount of material for the flooring, you should clearly think through the design of the floors.
When constructing a subfloor, either 5 x 6 cm bars, packed onto load-bearing beams, or grooves made in the beams can be used as support for the flooring boards. The latter option is quite labor-intensive, so most often 5 x 6 cm bars are used to create support.
To calculate the required number of bars, it is enough to count the number of beams and multiply them by the length of each of them. We multiply the resulting footage (the total length of all beams) by two more (since the bars will be packed on both sides of each beam).
A wide range of materials can be used for finishing flooring. This can be plank flooring, plywood, chipboard panels, MDF, OSB, etc. Each of these materials has its own advantages and disadvantages, after reading which you can choose one of them. To calculate required quantity material, it is enough to simply calculate the area of the room.
When purchasing building material you should always purchase it with a margin of 10 - 15%, since during construction unforeseen overexpenditures of material are inevitable.
This will save you from having to interrupt your work and buy the missing part.
Impregnations
Antiseptic will extend the life of wood To maximize the service life of wooden structures, they must be treated with antiseptic materials.
It would also be useful to treat the wood with fire retardants, which increase its fire safety.
To calculate the required amount of impregnation, you should read the instructions for its use - the approximate consumption of the mixture per sq.m. is always indicated there.
Waterproofing
Since wood is afraid of moisture, hydro is always used during construction. insulating materials.
It could be roll waterproofing, used to create a water-repellent layer between wooden structures floors and finishing coating, or between wood and brick (stone, cinder block, etc.).
To protect wood from dampness, you can also use coating waterproofing, created on the basis of polymers or liquid bitumen.
Heat and sound insulation
If it is necessary to create a barrier to noise or cold, insulating materials are used in the construction of floors. Most often, mini-slabs or polystyrene foam are used for these purposes. Their total number in area should be approximately equal to the area of the room. For more information about floor insulation, watch this video:
Expanded clay or ordinary slag mixed with sawdust can also be used as an insulating material.
Fastening materials
For fastening wooden elements floors, you should purchase screws, nails, steel angles, anchor bolts, etc. consumables. When purchasing screws and nails, you should pay attention to their length.
According to the standards, for a strong connection, the nail must be 2/3 longer than the thickness of the element being attached (board, block). For self-tapping screws and self-tapping screws, this figure can be reduced to 50%.
Those. For reliable fastening for the beam of the “magpie” board you will need 120 mm nails or 80 mm long self-tapping screws.
After everything necessary materials purchased, and all preparations are completed, you can proceed directly to construction work. The construction of interfloor slabs can be divided into several main stages. 
The part of the beam inserted into the wall is wrapped in three layers of waterproofing material Installation load-bearing beams most often performed at the stage of erecting the walls of a building. Before laying the load-bearing beams, their surface is treated with all necessary impregnations.
Then their ends are cut at an angle of 60° and the part that will be walled up in the wall is wrapped in 2-3 layers of rolled waterproofing.
The ends of the beams are usually also coated waterproofing compounds, but some experts advise leaving them open to allow the moisture contained in the wood to freely escape.
The depth of the beams inserted deep into the wall should be at least 15 cm. The laying step of the beams is usually taken at 0.6 m, but depending on the expected load on the floors, as well as on the thickness of the beam section, this figure can be reduced or increased.
The choice of interval between beams is also influenced by the technical characteristics of the material used for the finished floor.
If the top flooring is supposed to be made of inch boards, plywood or chipboard, then the distance between the beams should not exceed half a meter, otherwise the floors will sag when walking. For more information about installing beams, watch this video:
Floor joists must lie in the same plane The installation of load-bearing beams begins from the two outer walls, while the beams should be located at a distance of 5 - 10 cm. After installing the two outer beams, we install the rest, observing the required interval.
When laying beams, special attention should be paid to the horizontal slope: all floor beams must lie in the same plane. To do this, place an edged board between the two outer beams, or pull the twine tightly.
If the base on which the beams are laid is uneven, then mortgages should be installed under the ends of the beams to level the horizontal level. Mortgage resistant material is used for mortgages. physical activity– metal plates, pieces of tiles, etc.
It is not recommended to use wooden wedges to adjust the level of beams, as they can rot quite quickly, which will cause individual floor beams to lower and bend the floor line.
The supporting beams are attached to the wall using anchor bolts and steel corners.
Fastening the support bars
After all the floor beams have been exposed, bars with a cross section of 5 x 6 cm (the so-called “cranial” bars) are attached to them. They serve as a support for laying the subfloor and are attached along the entire length load-bearing beam, on both sides.
They should be nailed in such a way that their lower part is flush with the lower part of the beams.
Most often, the subfloor is made from inch boards To install the subfloor, take edged boards and are laid across the beams on support bars. Since the distance between the beams usually does not exceed 0.6 - 0.8 m, then an inch or thirty board is quite suitable for subfloors: the pressure on them will be limited only by the weight of the insulation.
You can also use a trimmed slab for these purposes. You can also combine the subfloors of the second floor with the finished ceilings of the first floor or basement. In this case, the edged boards are hemmed from below, from the side of the first floor to the beams. For more information about the draft field, watch this video:
Thermal insulation flooring
After installing the subfloors, compartments are formed between the beams, which, if necessary, can be filled with thermal insulation materials.
To do this, a hydro- or vapor barrier (roofing felt, isospan, etc.) is laid on top of the subfloor boards, and then mineral wool, polystyrene foam, slag with sawdust, etc. are laid.
In this case, the entire space between the bars must be densely filled. We fill the gaps between the beams and the foam sheets with sealant.
It is also advisable to lay waterproofing on top of the insulation, which will protect it from moisture leaks from above.
The final stage will be laying the finished floors, which are attached on top of the load-bearing beams using self-tapping screws or nails.
To do this, the material (boards, OSB, plywood) is cut so that their joint falls in the middle of the beam. The finished floor is the basis for the finishing coating - laminate, linoleum, parquet.
Wooden houses were very popular at one time, but then with the development of modern building materials they faded into the background. But today wooden buildings regaining their former glory. This is due to the fact that only in a wooden house the atmosphere is filled with harmony and tranquility. The decoration in such a house can be made of any material. But this is not very advisable, since walls made of logs look much more attractive and natural than paint or wallpaper.
But the question of surface finishing will depend only on personal taste preferences. As for the construction of the wooden floor of the second floor, it is also made from beams. There can be no other option. On wooden walls reinforced concrete slabs are not laid. IN finished form The entire structure is made of natural material – wood.
Wooden interfloor covering of the first floor
The wooden floor between the first and second floors must meet certain established requirements:
- The floor structure must be very strong and withstand the expected loads from above; it is recommended to calculate the magnitude of the loads with a margin.
- Wooden floor beams must be rigid for arranging the floor on the second floor and the ceiling on the first.
- The ceiling must have the same service life as the entire wooden house as a whole. Reliable covering during the construction phase will ensure safety and prevent repair work.
- It is very important to equip the floor with additional heat and sound insulation.
Wooden beams as a floor perform all the main functions, and they differ from reinforced concrete slabs in that they are easier to install. Human power is sufficient; there is no need to use heavy equipment. Using beams, you can significantly reduce the overall load on the foundation. The advantages of wooden floors include their low price. And when correct processing and such a design will last for decades when installed.
The disadvantages of wood include such a harmful process as rotting. In addition, the disadvantage of wood products is their high flammability in a fire. In order to minimize the likelihood of such processes, it is very important to prepare the beams immediately before installation work. It is best to use coniferous wood for flooring. In order to avoid deflection of the beam, it is not recommended to make a span of more than 5 m. If the span is larger, it is necessary to make additional supports in the form of columns or crossbars.
Calculation of the floor structure in a wooden house
It is precisely from how correctly the calculation of the expected load is carried out that you can create a high-quality reliable design, which will perform its main functions and last for a very long time.
Most often, beams in a room are laid in the direction of the shortest wall. This makes it possible to keep the span to a minimum. The pitch between the beams will depend primarily on the size of the section. On average this size is 1 meter. Making the distance smaller is not worth it, as this will only increase the consumption of material and the complexity of the work.
It is better to give preference to beams with a large cross-section rather than making a floor with a small pitch and weak overlap.
The main dimensions of the beams at a certain size span:
- 2200 mm span – section 75*100 mm;
- 3200 mm span – section 100*175 mm or 125*200 mm;
- 500 mm span – section 150*225 mm.
If the ceiling is made between the first floor and the attic, then the step between the material should be the same, but the cross-section of the beams can be chosen much smaller. This is due to the fact that the loads in the attic will be significantly less than on a full floor.
Tools for arranging interfloor slabs
All work can be done independently. To do this, you need to prepare the following tools and materials:
- drill;
- saw;
- hatchet (large and small if necessary);
- chisel;
- hammer;
- nails, screws;
- construction level;
- fasteners.
As for the building material, the wood must be High Quality and well dried. Before carrying out all work, it is necessary to separate element treat with a product that will prevent rotting and make the wood less flammable.
Wooden floor installation
It’s quite easy to make ceilings with your own hands; the main thing is to follow all the recommendations and technologies. The beams are laid on the walls with their ends. In order for them to be securely fastened, special connectors are cut into the wall for right size sections. When placing a beam in the socket, it is covered with tow on all sides. This will prevent further education cold bridges. If the beam has a cross-sectional size smaller than the walls, then the recess can not be made to the full depth.
The second option for attaching the ceiling to the wall is “ dovetail" In order to strengthen this fastening, fasteners in the form of a metal bracket are additionally used. This type of fastening is most often used if the walls of the house are made of timber. IN wooden house the crossbar with the beam at the same level can be secured using a clamp.
It is worth highlighting the most common type of fastening a beam to a crossbar - the use of cranial bars. Such bars are attached to the crossbar, and the beam is already attached to them. It is recommended to use bars with a cross section of 50*50 mm.
For panel house The beams are laid using a slightly different method. Special nests are made in the wall into which the ends of the floor elements are placed. The optimal depth of the nest is 150-200 mm, while the width should correspond to the dimensions of the section. In addition, it is necessary to leave a gap of 10 mm on each side. As in the first case, the ends of the materials must be wrapped with tow before placing them in the nests.
Metal anchors can also be used to secure elements. With this fastening, the end of the beam will not go into the wall.
In order to make the ceiling of the first floor, it is necessary to roll up. This stage of work can be carried out using a wide variety of materials.
In the most common version, skull blocks are nailed along the side of the beam. Such bars should have a cross-section of 40*40 or 50*50 mm. They should not protrude below the main beam. It is on them that smooth boards will subsequently be attached, the thickness of which should be in the range of 10-25 mm. In order to line the ceiling, you can use sheets of plywood. Using sheet material, you can get a perfectly flat ceiling. Minimum thickness plywood in this case should be at least 8 mm. It is very important to ensure that the edges of the sheets lie exactly in the middle of the beam.
Instead of using cranial bars, you can make special grooves in the beams. In order to use this method, the cross-section of the beam must be thought out in advance.
As an option for flooring, the lower part of the floor elements can remain open; for this, the cranial elements are nailed not flush, but slightly higher. Thus, the flooring is carried out between the beams.
After the rolling is done, you can begin laying the floor of the second floor. If instead of the second floor there is an attic, then a subfloor is sufficient. If there is a room on the second floor, then the floor must be made of quality material. Wooden boards will be laid directly on the joists.
Interfloor insulation
In a wooden house it is very important to do good thermal insulation. This also needs to be done with the interfloor overlap. Thermal insulation materials today are presented in a very wide range. The thermal insulation qualities of the room will depend on how correctly the material is selected and laid correctly. This is especially important if there is an attic instead of a second full floor. Therefore, in order to prevent heat from leaving the room, it is necessary to lay thermal insulation between the beams.
Mineral wool would be a good option.
She has very high technical qualities, however, is not a very good soundproofing material. In addition, after a certain period of operation, its structure changes, and microparticles can be released into the environment.
Particular attention should be paid to sound insulation of the interfloor ceiling.
When laying any material, you should control its location. There should be no gaps between the joists and the insulator. Sheet materials must be cut strictly to size, roll materials fit a little end to end.
If the ceiling is installed between the first floor and the attic, it is imperative to lay a vapor barrier. Can handle it polyethylene film. In order for condensation to escape from under the film faster, it is necessary to leave ventilation gaps.
Advantage multi-storey building obviously big living space with the same external dimensions. Figuratively speaking, by placing floors on floors, you can double the usable space.
This is actually not difficult, the only thing that needs to be thought through in advance is the design of the floors. Concrete creates excess load on the walls, steel is difficult to process.
Wooden floors between floors are the best choice For country house. It is only important to accurately calculate its parameters and choose high-quality materials.
Installation of wooden floors
Perhaps this is the best type of flooring; it is distinguished by its ease of manufacture and availability of materials. In addition, only wood is used to create it, which ensures environmental friendliness with sufficient reliability. The installation of floors using wooden beams is not particularly complicated; its main components are:
- load-bearing beams;
- guide bars;
- rough ceiling;
- base of the upper floor floor;
- insulation;
- waterproofing;
- decorative coating.
The timber will provide the necessary strength and reliability to the entire structure. It can be solid or glued together from several layers. Good replacement timber - solid logs small diameter. Also, boards can serve as the basis for the structure, but such floors have significant limitations in terms of span length and load.
In principle, the beam can be made of any wood, but it is better to choose larch or pine. Hardwood has a slightly different structure and less bending resistance. Such an overlap may not withstand constant load.
The base of the future floor and ceiling, respectively, is mounted on a supporting structure of parallel beams. This can be a prepared board or wood-based sheet material. The flooring is laid on the finished base (on the second floor), and a full ceiling is made below.
A feature of this design is the free inner space, which must be used. It is filled with any material with heat-insulating or sound-absorbing properties. This will help keep the rooms warm and provide a sufficient level of sound insulation.
Material selection
First of all, this design functional, therefore, the interfloor ceiling on wooden beams must be reliable. It is important to understand that it must not only withstand its own weight, but also the weight of the furniture located on the top floor, and the weight of the people there. Consequently, high quality requirements are placed on the material used, especially for beams.
As already mentioned, the best material for a beam is wood coniferous species. The choice of wood should be taken with all possible responsibility. Basic requirements for the material:
- minimum humidity, its value should not exceed 14%;
- minimum knots per unit length;
- there should be no pronounced cross-layer;
- absence of cracks, rot, darkening, traces of pest activity.
To ensure the durability of the ceiling, all wooden surfaces are pre-treated with an antiseptic and impregnated special compounds, reducing the flammability of the material. This guarantees the durability of the structure and protects against fire.
Types of floors according to the method of fastening
The supporting beams are securely fixed to the walls. There are two main ways to attach them: installing them in a socket or using additional fasteners.
Installing beams into grooves
This method is great for brick houses, cinder block buildings and similar materials. To attach the beam, you need to make a groove (groove) in the wall. The dimensions of the groove should be 2–3 cm greater than the thickness and width of the beam, the depth varies from 100 to 150 mm. It is easy to ensure waterproofing of the connection using ordinary roofing felt; it is used to wrap the ends of the beams, which are recessed into the wall.
Using metal fasteners
If it is not possible to recess the beams into the wall, you can use external steel fasteners. Technically, this method is simpler, but it provides less strength, therefore, the wooden floor will withstand less load. Similar hinged mount can be used to create small ceilings or between the first floor and the attic (attic) of a garden house.
Fasteners go on sale different shapes, some are designed for wall mounting, others are mounted on internal or external corners. There will definitely be no problems with choosing the optimal configuration of supporting elements.
Basic parameters of timber for beams
The parameters of the beams directly depend on the geometric dimensions of the rooms on the lower and upper floors and their intended purpose. Calculation of parameters is important stage in creating an interfloor ceiling, the reliability and durability of the entire structure largely depends on it.
Shape and section
Rectangular timber seems to be the optimal material for the manufacture of beams. Mounted on the edge, it has a sufficient margin of safety and high reliability. Sometimes round timber or lumber of specific profiles, for example, I-section, are used as load-bearing structures.
The exact parameters of the beam directly depend on the expected load, span length and distance between adjacent beams. By the way, it is not at all necessary to calculate all the parameters yourself; you can use ready-made tables and diagrams.
Length calculation
Calculating the length of the beam is simple - it is the width of the span plus tolerances for embedding in the grooves. Regardless of the cross-section, it is not recommended to make spans wider than 6 m; this will inevitably cause sagging, which can result in an accident. If it is necessary to make a larger wooden floor, you can get out of the situation by installing supports and supports in the form of columns from the same timber.
Quantity of material
To make it easier to calculate the amount of material, it would be useful to sketch out a diagram of the future overlap. It should be taken into account that the distance from the outer beams to the wall will be approximately 50 mm, and the rest will be evenly laid between them at the same interval (0.5–1.0 m).
Stages of manufacturing interfloor slabs
After the calculations have been completed and the material has been purchased, you can proceed directly to the installation of the wooden floor. The process of making it is not very complicated, but to make the work easier, it is advisable to do everything with an assistant, this is especially true when making large-width floors.
Installation of beams
The best option for a residential building with a full second floor is to install beams in grooves. You can make grooves both at the construction stage, which is much easier, and after the construction of the building. Work begins with the outer beams, which will be located in close proximity to the side walls.
A piece of the required length is cut out of the timber, the ends are trimmed circular saw or a hand saw at an angle of approximately 60 degrees. Special precision is not needed; it is important to create conditions for the wood to breathe.
Note! The part of the timber that will be hidden in the wall is impregnated bitumen mastic(except for the end) and is wrapped with roofing felt.
The beam is inserted into the groove, and a board 20–30 mm thick is placed under it. Using a level, check the correct installation; the beam must lie strictly horizontal. The first and every fifth beam are additionally fixed using anchor bolts or steel plates.
This procedure is repeated with the other end beam. To control the plane, a board is temporarily laid between the outer beams, and a regular board is placed on top of it. building level. Thanks to this simple design, it is easy to select the thickness of the lining for each subsequent beam.
Skull block
Skull block - slats with a cross-section of approximately 50 x 50 mm, which are attached to both sides of the beam. Its task is to hold the roll, which is used as draft ceiling. It is advisable to use a block only when the ceiling is installed from above.
The slats are cut along the length of the beam and fixed with self-tapping screws. The roll is attached to them. This method is simple and does not require excessive physical effort; there is no need to hold the parts of the rough ceiling suspended, but it significantly reduces the space inside the ceiling, which can be used for laying insulation and sound insulation.
If the ceiling is mounted from below, the work technology can be significantly simplified, without a cranial block, then the roll will be attached using self-tapping screws directly to the beams.
Creating a draft ceiling
In most cases, it is convenient to use wood-based sheet material to create the base of the ceiling. It's easy to install and durable. For work, it is enough to arm yourself with a screwdriver and self-tapping screws.
When using a cranial block, the material is cut into strips equal in width to the span and laid, secured with self-tapping screws. If the skull block is not installed, you can use a material of any size, the only condition is that you must ensure that the adjacent slabs converge on the beam.
Thermal insulation and vapor barrier
Even if there is overlap between residential floors, it’s worth laying inside thermal insulation material, mineral wool is best. It will completely fill the space, save heat and become a good protection against noise.
Under insulation, especially if there is a kitchen, bathroom or other room with high humidity, you need to lay a layer of vapor barrier. It will protect the ceiling from steam and protect the wood from moisture that will condense inside. The sheets are laid overlapping, the joints are additionally secured with construction tape.
Waterproofing
A waterproofing film is laid on top of the finished insulation cake. Its task is to block the path of moisture from above and prevent it from seeping into the seal. The edges of the film should overlap each other by at least 10 cm on each side. Additional protection Construction tape will protect against possible leaks, as is the case with vapor barriers.
Subfloor of the next floor
To create a base for the floor covering, boards, multi-layer plywood, OSB sheets, and chipboard of sufficient thickness can be used. Fasteners are selected for the selected material; for slabs these are self-tapping screws; for boards, nails are suitable. When working with sheet material, as when creating a rough ceiling, you need to ensure that the slabs are joined only on the beams.
Finishing floor and ceiling cladding
Actually, the work is almost finished, only the casing remains. Here the technique depends solely on the selected material. The floor of the upper floor can be covered with budget linoleum, luxury parquet, or you can choose the golden mean - laminate. The material for the ceiling can be plasterboard followed by painting, ceiling panels made of plastic, lining.
Wood flooring is the best choice for a country house. It is easy to install, it is strong and durable. This is exactly the kind of ceiling that you can make with your own hands. It will last a long time, does not require special care, and thanks exclusively natural materials This perfect solution for a children's room, it can be done both on the top floor and on the bottom.
Double decker Vacation home- the dream of many summer residents. This is understandable: the high cottage will definitely have enough space for family and guests. And everything is clearly visible from above. What, besides height, two-storey house different from one-story?
The presence of stairs and ceilings between floors. , let’s focus on the interfloor “filling”. If you are building a house yourself, then you will have to take into account several details.
In stone houses, the issue of floors is solved simply: by using reinforced concrete slabs. But in frame buildings, wooden beams are usually used. Together with the purlins and floor joists, they form the basis of the structure. To make the ceiling strong, it needs good materials suitable section. Another important point– sound insulation. Well, oh decorative elements Let's not forget.
Floor beams
The basis of the supporting structure is floor beams. To make them, select boards are taken, without knots and smooth. Make sure the wood is not infested with bark beetles. After cleaning the surface of the beams with a plane, inspect it. For prevention, treat cut-to-size pieces with a biocidal composition.
It is important to choose the correct cross-section of beams and the distance (step) between them.
A special table from SP 31-105-2002 can help us with this.
It is difficult to find boards with a cross section of more than 200 mm on sale. With such material we will not be able to reliably cover even a 4-meter room. Therefore, if you need to cover a room wider than 4 meters, then you cannot do without purlins. A purlin is a super-beam on which other beams rest.
Sometimes they are visible on the ceiling.
Run simplest design can be made directly at a construction site if there are boards of the required length, but of insufficient cross-section, for example, 50x150 mm. How can you use them to cover a 4-meter room? We put them on top of each other and get a girder with a cross section of 50x300 mm. The main thing is to fasten the wood more securely. It is best to use special serrated metal plates for this.
But it is much safer to use a factory-made purlin.
There are two main purlin designs:
– rectangular section – made of laminated wood;
– I-beams made of wooden blocks and sheet materials(OSB or plywood).
Purlins made of laminated wood have a beautiful, well-finished surface. It is better to make them visible in the interior. In this case, the beams will rest on the upper surface of the purlin.
If you use I-beam purlins, then it is convenient to rest the beams on the lower beam of the I-beam. In this case, the beams will be in the same plane as the purlin and the ceiling will not be too high.
Above the I-beams, the beams are connected by bars at least 60 cm long. Leave a gap of 10 mm between the bar and the upper plane of the girder in case of shrinkage of the beams.
Lag requirements
Logs are bars that are laid on beams perpendicular to them. The subfloor is attached to the joists.
Typically, logs are made from bars with a cross section of 50x75 mm (installed on the smaller side). They are easy to find on sale.
If we use floorboard, then we select the pitch and cross-section of the lag according to the table.
If sheet materials (chipboard, fiberboard, plywood) with a thickness of 16 mm are used as a subfloor, then the logs are laid in increments of 30 cm along the axes. If the thickness of the cladding exceeds 20 mm, the lag pitch increases to 40 cm.
The edges of the sheets are joined to each other on joists or backing bars.
For subfloors, it is better to use tongue and groove materials. This will give you a more even and durable surface for laying the finishing coat.
Sheet materials can be laid on beams without joists, if the distance between the beams allows (see table).
Subfloor sheathing thickness, mm
Achieving rigidity
How to prevent the floor of the second floor from becoming shaky and “walking” under load? Cross connections are needed. The role of transverse connections between purlins is performed by beams. But if they are located above the purlins, then the cross braces are not rigid enough. It is better when the beams lie in the same plane as the purlins, then they act as a spacer between them.
The beams on top are held together with joists or subfloor sheathing - but this is not enough. Beams also need spacers. They can be made from scraps of wood, as shown in the diagram.
But it is more convenient to create a sheathing from sheet material. We take OSB or plywood 12 mm thick and screw it from below to the beams. If we have conceived a ceiling design with a visible purlin, then we screw the drywall directly to the plywood and putty it.
In addition, sheathing made of sheet materials will help us with sound insulation.
Staircase opening
There must be an opening in the interfloor ceiling, otherwise how to get to the second floor? . Mandatory rule: double beams are placed along the edges of the opening.
Fighting noise
There are two types of noise that may disturb you in your home: people's voices (including from speakers) and the sound of footsteps.
– sound-reflecting layers on the upper and lower surfaces of the ceiling,
– sound-absorbing layer inside the ceiling.
Massive slab materials, such as DSP, reflect sound well. Plywood and gypsum fiber sheets are also suitable. It is important that the sound-reflecting layer is sealed. Therefore, it is better, we repeat, to use tongue-and-groove slabs.
The sound-absorbing layer inside the ceiling is made from special mineral wool density 40-45 kg per cubic meter. Mineral wool mats are laid in several layers with overlapping seams. The total layer thickness is 150-200 mm. The cotton wool should completely fill the voids inside the ceiling.
Seal all cracks around the perimeter polyurethane foam and acrylic sealant. Crevices are our main enemy. No amount of cotton wool can save you if noise penetrates them.
To combat the sound of footsteps, it is convenient to use soft pads under the flooring. For example, from a cork. By the way, you can generally make the entire floor from cork. Its slabs are available in different shades, which allows you to play with the design of the room.
A good option for the bedroom is long-pile carpet. But in this case you need to immediately acquire very a good vacuum cleaner.
Perhaps the most difficult option is the floors in the children's room on the second floor. This requires eco-friendly coating, e.g. parquet board made of solid wood. But at the same time you need good shock sound insulation.
For such cases, floating floors were invented. For wooden floor construction in general view will be like this.
1. We cover the subfloor along beams made of tongue-and-groove material (for example, chipboard or tongue-and-groove boards).
2. We fill the cracks with sealant, foam and glue them with “painting” tape.
3. We lay a layer of special mineral wool for floating floors with a density of about 120 kg per cubic meter. It is the mineral wool in this “pie” that should absorb the blows during the game “an elephant chasing a frog.”
4. We lay a gypsum fiber sheet on the mineral wool in two layers (for example, 16+12 mm) with overlapping seams. There should be a gap of about a centimeter between the sheets and the wall.
5. We seal the gap around the perimeter of the room using tape and polyethylene. From a sound insulation point of view, this does not provide anything. But fumes from mineral wool are unlikely to have a good effect on health. So better than cotton wool isolate in this way.
6. We lay any floor covering, preferably with a lock.
Finishing the ceiling
Even the strongest wooden floor gives at least a few millimeters of deflection when walking on it. This creates some difficulties when finishing the ceiling. It is difficult to make a monolithic surface without the risk of cracks.
If you really need wallpaper on the ceiling of the first floor, then the basis for it can be gypsum board cladding on a frame with a floating suspension. Such hangers are sold together with other fasteners for gypsum boards.
If the house is heated all year round, That good option can be stretch ceiling. But if in winter you do not constantly live in the country, then it is better to use lining. We also talk about what you can use to decorate the ceiling in a cottage.
The possibility of unsupported covering of large areas significantly expands the architectural possibilities when designing a house. A positive solution to the beam issue allows you to “play” with the volume of rooms, install panoramic windows, build large halls. But if it is not difficult to cover a distance of 3-4 meters with “wood”, then which beams to use on a span of 5 m or more is already a difficult question.
Wooden floor beams - dimensions and loads
Made a wooden floor in timber house, and the floor shakes, bends, a “trampoline” effect appears; we want to make wooden floor beams 7 meters long; you need to cover a room 6.8 meters long so as not to rest the logs on intermediate supports; what should be the floor beam for a span of 6 meters, a house made of timber; what to do if you want to make an open plan - such questions are often asked by forum users.
Maxinova User FORUMHOUSE
My house is about 10x10 meters. I “threw” wooden logs onto the ceiling, their length is 5 meters, cross-section is 200x50. The distance between the joists is 60 cm. During the operation of the floor, it turned out that when children run around in one room and you stand in another, there is quite a strong vibration along the floor.
And such a case is far from the only one.
Elena555 User FORUMHOUSE
I can’t figure out what kind of beams are needed for the interfloor floors. I have a house 12x12 meters, 2 floors. The first floor is made of aerated concrete, the second floor is an attic, wooden, covered with timber 6000x150x200mm, laid every 80 cm. The logs are laid on an I-beam, which rests on a pillar installed in the middle of the first floor. When I walk on the second floor, I feel shaking.
Beams for long spans must withstand heavy loads, therefore, in order to build a strong and reliable wooden floor with a large span, they must be carefully calculated. First of all, you need to understand what load it can withstand. wooden joist one section or another. And then think about, having determined the load for the floor beam, what roughing and finishing coat gender; what the ceiling will be hemmed with; will the floor be a full-fledged living space or uninhabited attic above the garage.
Leo060147 User FORUMHOUSE
- The load from the own weight of all structural elements of the floor. This includes the weight of beams, insulation, fasteners, flooring, ceiling, etc.
- Operating load. The operating load can be permanent or temporary.
When calculating the operating load, the mass of people, furniture, household appliances etc. The load temporarily increases when guests arrive, noisy celebrations, or furniture is rearranged if it is moved away from the walls to the center of the room.
Therefore, when calculating the operating load, it is necessary to think through everything - right down to what kind of furniture you plan to install, and whether there is a possibility in the future of installing a sports exercise machine, which also weighs more than one kilogram.
The following values are taken for the load acting on long wooden floor beams (for attic and interfloor floors):
- Attic floor – 150 kg/sq.m. Where (according to SNiP 2.01.07-85), taking into account the safety factor, 50 kg/sq.m is the load from the floor’s own weight, and 100 kg/sq.m is the standard load.
If you plan to store things, materials and other household items in the attic, then the load is assumed to be 250 kg/sq.m.
- For interfloor ceilings and floors of the attic floor, the total load is taken at the rate of 350-400 kg/sq.m.
Flooring with boards 200 by 50 and other common sizes
These are the types of beams on a span of 4 meters that are allowed by the standards.
Most often, in the construction of wooden floors, boards and timber of the so-called running sizes are used: 50x150, 50x200, 100x150, etc. Such beams meet the standards ( after calculation), if you plan to cover the opening no more than four meters.
For floors 6 or more meters long, the dimensions 50x150, 50x200, 100x150 are no longer suitable.
Wooden beam over 6 meters: subtleties
A beam for a span of 6 meters or more should not be made of timber and boards of standard sizes.
You should remember the rule: the strength and rigidity of the floor depend to a greater extent on the height of the beam and to a lesser extent on its width.
A distributed and concentrated load acts on the floor beam. Therefore, wooden beams for large spans are not designed “end-to-end”, but with a margin of strength and permissible deflection. This ensures normal and safe operation ceilings
50x200 - overlap for openings of 4 and 5 meters.
To calculate the load that the ceiling will withstand, you must have the appropriate knowledge. In order not to delve into the strength of strength formulas (and when building a garage this is definitely redundant), an ordinary developer just needs to use online calculators for calculating wooden single-span beams.
Leo060147 User FORUMHOUSE
A self-builder is most often not a professional designer. All he wants to know is what beams need to be mounted in the ceiling so that it meets the basic requirements for strength and reliability. This is what online calculators allow you to calculate.
These calculators are easy to use. To make calculations of the required values, it is enough to enter the dimensions of the logs and the length of the span that they must cover.
Also, to simplify the task, you can use ready-made tables presented by the guru of our forum with the nickname Roracotta.
Roracotta User FORUMHOUSE
I spent several evenings to make tables that would be understandable even to a novice builder:
Table 1. It presents data that meets the minimum load requirements for the floors of the second floor - 147 kg/sq.m.
Note: since the tables are based on American standards, and the sizes of lumber overseas are somewhat different from the sections accepted in our country, you need to use the column highlighted in yellow in the calculations.
Table 2. Here is data on the average load for the floors of the first and second floors - 293 kg/sq.m.
Table 3. Here is the data for the calculated increased load of 365 kg/sq.m.
How to calculate the distance between I-beams
If you carefully read the tables presented above, it becomes clear that with an increase in the span length, first of all, it is necessary to increase the height of the log, and not its width.
Leo060147 User FORUMHOUSE
You can change the rigidity and strength of the lag upward by increasing its height and making “shelves”. That is, a wooden I-beam is made.
Self-production of laminated wood beams
One solution for spanning long spans is to use wooden beams in the floors. Let's consider a span of 6 meters - which beams can withstand a larger load.
By appearance cross section a long beam can be:
- rectangular;
- I-beam;
- box-shaped
None among self-builders consensus, which section is better. If we do not take into account purchased products (factory-made I-beams), then the ease of manufacture in “ field conditions", without the use of expensive equipment and accessories.
Just Grandfather User FORUMHOUSE
If you look at a cross section of any metal I-beam, you can see that from 85% to 90% of the metal mass is concentrated in the “shelves”. The connecting wall contains no more than 10-15% of the metal. This is done based on calculation.
Which board to use for beams
According to the strength of strength: the larger the cross-section of the “shelves” and the farther they are spaced apart in height, the greater the loads the I-beam will withstand. For a self-builder, the optimal I-beam manufacturing technology is a simple box-shaped structure, where the upper and lower “shelves” are made of boards laid flat. (50x150mm, and the side walls are made of plywood with a thickness of 8-12 mm and a height of 350 to 400 mm (determined by calculation), etc.).
Plywood is nailed to the shelves or screwed with self-tapping screws (not black ones, they do not work for cutting) and must be placed on glue.
If you install such an I-beam on a six-meter span with a step of 60 cm, then it will withstand a large load. Additionally, an I-beam for a 6-meter ceiling can be lined with insulation.
Also, using a similar principle, you can connect two long boards, collecting them in a “package”, and then put them on top of each other on an edge (take boards 150x50 or 200x50), as a result, the cross-section of the beam will be 300x100 or 400x100 mm. The boards are placed on glue and tied together with pins or placed on wood grouse/dowels. You can also screw or nail plywood to the side surfaces of such a beam, having previously lubricated it with glue.
Also interesting is the experience of a forum member under the nickname Taras174, who decided to independently make a glued I-beam to span a span of 8 meters.
To do this, the forum member purchased 12 mm thick OSB sheets and cut them lengthwise into five equal parts. Then I bought a board 150x50 mm, 8 meters long. Using a dovetail cutter, I used a dovetail cutter to select a groove 12 mm deep and 14 mm wide in the middle of the board, so as to create a trapezoid with a downward expansion. OSB in grooves Taras174 glued it in using polyester resin (epoxy), having previously “shot” a strip of fiberglass 5 mm wide to the end of the slab with a stapler. This, according to the forum member, would strengthen the structure. To speed up drying, the glued area was heated with a heater.
Taras174 User FORUMHOUSE
On the first beam I practiced “pushing my hand.” The second one was done in 1 working day. In terms of cost, taking into account all materials, I include a solid board of 8 meters, the cost of the beam is 2000 rubles. for 1 piece
Despite the positive experience, such “squatter construction” did not escape several critical remarks expressed by our experts. Namely.