DIY log house video. Typical mistakes when building a house from rounded logs Build a wooden house from logs

The main mistakes in the construction of log buildings wooden houses.

Log houses have faithfully served people for thousands of years. Solid wood houses give their owners the incomparable pleasure of living in a comfortable microenvironment. Solid wood has a high heat capacity (2.4 times higher than ceramic bricks), which allows you to smooth out daily temperature fluctuations. Also, the porous structure of wood allows you to naturally regulate the humidity in the room through cycles of absorption and evaporation of moisture. The log house is relatively resistant to movements of the soil and foundation. The wooden surface often does not require any additional treatment other than sanding and coating with antiseptics to create beautiful interiors.

However, only properly built wooden houses will provide comfort to their owners. The construction of a log house requires high carpentry qualifications at the 6th category level. Without experience and qualifications it is almost impossible to cut down wooden house no mistakes. And mistakes during construction can negate all the advantages log house. Houses built with errors are easy to recognize: builders or owners have to additionally insulate them and sheathe them outside and inside in order to hide defects and eliminate through-blowing of locks in the corners and crown joints. One of modern options houses made of solid wood, practically devoid of the disadvantages of log houses, are houses made of laminated veneer lumber. Thanks to the features of this technology, blowing through seams and cracking of wood in such houses is practically impossible.

In this article we will briefly touch on the most common mistakes in the construction of log houses.

1. Errors in preparing a log house.

Mistakes when choosing materials for construction.

According to GOST 9463-88 “Round timber coniferous species» Pine, spruce, fir and larch round timber is suitable for building houses. Larch is the most expensive material, the hardest and most resistant to rotting. Spruce has a lower density, excessive knots and is prone to more cracking. The optimal tree for building a house is pine aged from 80 to 120 (140) years, grown in the northern regions (Arkhangelsk, Angarsk, Karelia) on dry sandy soil, at least 24 meters high. The best pine logs have a dark red or yellow-red core color, indicating a high density of wood. More loose varieties have a pale yellow core. The forest of winter felling, contrary to folk legends, actually has more high humidity sapwood (25-50% higher than in summer), a larger amount of starch and, therefore, is more easily affected by fungi. You can identify round timber from winter felling using a qualitative starch test: a stroke is applied to the debarked wood with an iodine pencil. If the stroke turns blue, this means a tree cut down in winter.
For construction, timber with such defects as mushroom blue and colored sapwood stains (with a depth of no more than 1/20 - 1/10 of the end diameter), wormholes (no more than 5-10 pieces for 1 linear meter), side cracks from shrinkage no more than 1/20 -1/5 of the end diameter, trunk curvature no more than 1-2% (1-2 cm per 1 linear meter). Logs used for construction must have a slope (thinning of the log towards the top) of no more than 0.8 cm per 1 m of length.

Rot (sapwood, rotten, heartwood) and tobacco knots (decomposed brown or white knots that crumble under load) are not allowed in round timber.

Minimum diameter round timber for a residential building - 22-24 cm. The width of the grooves should be at least half the diameter of the log, and in the northern regions it can be increased even more. With a smaller groove size, the consumption of timber is reduced, but the thickness of the inter-crown seams becomes smaller, and the house becomes colder.
Cutting corners can be done without a residue “into the paw” or with a residue - “into the corner”. Cutting into a corner makes the connections more reliable and the frame more stable. In addition, the allowance of wood better protects the lock from the effects of atmospheric factors. Cutting “in the paw” is usually used for subsequent cladding of corners or the entire log house. For residential buildings the device for connecting logs in the corners must have internal locking elements that prevent through blowing of the corner (connecting logs “into a bowl” with a pre-stop or “into a cloud” with a pre-stop). Due to its geometry (an inverted bowl), cutting “in the middle” allows for better moisture removal and faster drying of the joint. Cutting internal locking elements requires highly qualified carpenter, such work takes more time and costs more. Otherwise, the corners of a residential building will be protected from blowing only by tow ( thermal insulation material). This is one of the main disadvantages of houses made of rounded logs, where log connections are made industrially without additional internal locking elements.

Moisture content of timber for construction. SP 64.13330.2011 " Wooden structures» allows the use of raw solid wood for the construction of houses with humidity up to 40% at following conditions: the predicted shrinkage of wood should not interfere with the structure and pliability of the joints, and the timber itself must be subjected to antiseptic treatment and conditions must be provided for it to dry out and be protected from moisture. It is optimal if the log house dries out, installed in place on the foundation and under the roof. Drying period from 6 months to 1 year. If the log house stood in the seller’s pile ( separate parts log house with 5 crowns each, convenient in height for processing) without a roof for 6-12 months, then with a high probability this means that the tree will be affected by rot. It is permissible to purchase log houses that have stood under the roof.

It is important to understand that the higher the humidity of the timber, the greater the shrinkage of the tree, and the wider the inter-crown cracks and cracks in corner joints will open (especially with cutting defects), the more the tree will crack.

Why don't they cut down houses from dry wood? Dry wood has greater density and hardness, and is much more difficult to process. The rounded log is subjected to chamber drying after processing upon request. However, the tree chamber drying may bend during the process of gaining equilibrium humidity at the construction site. They use Finnish and Karelian dead pine of equal moisture content in construction, but this is already an exclusive product. In addition, a correctly assembled frame made of raw wood, when dried in the assembled state, “sits” in place, reducing the size of the through cracks and, accordingly, the coefficient of blowing through the walls. It is important to know that wood can be painted (not treated with antiseptics) only if its moisture content does not exceed 15%. Otherwise, the wood will crack severely when drying. Therefore, treatment of log houses is only permissible with vapor-permeable antiseptics. Treating a damp (damp) log house with a vapor-proof antiseptic will also lead to cracking of the wood as it dries.

For dowels (dowels), only dry (no more than 12%) straight-grained wood without knots should be used. Birch dowels must be antiseptic.

Fastening logs to metal elements (pieces of reinforcement, long nails) is not recommended, since moisture accumulates at the media interface, and the metal elements become centers of biological destruction of wood. Typically, unscrupulous builders use reinforcement to fasten and “tension” crooked logs, which then leads to disruption of the normal shrinkage of the log house, the formation of cracks and bulging of individual logs. It is strictly forbidden to pierce the corner joints of logs with nails, as this will interfere with the movement of the tree during shrinkage and will contribute to the formation of cracks (after the wood shrinks, the nails will rise above the surfaces).

Types of timber processing for construction.
The most traditional for Russia is round timber. In Scandinavia they use a carriage (from the Norwegian “lafteverk” - log house) - logs hewn on two opposite sides onto two edges, or a semi-carriage - hewn onto one edge with inside logs Price ashlar can be 35-50% higher than a log frame. When processing round timber, builders sometimes leave sections of the bast (underbark) unremoved. According to the standards, no more than 20% bast can remain on the round timber. However, it is better to remove the bast completely by sharpening (planing), since the bast contains many polysaccharides, which are an excellent feeding ground for microorganisms and insects that can damage the wood. Also, when trimming, young layers of sapwood, less resistant to damage by fungi and insects, are removed.

2. Errors in the assembly of the log house.

Waterproofing must be laid between the first casing and the foundation. Until now, for some reason, builders use for waterproofing a short-lived material based on cardboard - roofing felt, in which through holes and cracks in 7-10 years. For waterproofing it is necessary to use modern bitumen-polymer materials with a service life of 25-50 years. Of course, a complete lack of waterproofing is unacceptable. The use of a backing board under the frame crown reduces heat loss by heat transfer from the log house to the foundation, reduces the risk of biological destruction decorative crown. According to the requirements of SP 64.13330.2011 “Wooden structures”, such wooden linings (pillows) should be made from antiseptic wood mainly hardwood(oak, aspen). If necessary, backing boards can be replaced with new ones. Replacing the frame crown is a much more labor-intensive procedure. The lower crowns of the house must be protected from moisture. The greatest damage is caused by splashes of precipitation reflected from the ground and snow piled against the wall. To protect the logs from splashes and snow, it is recommended to raise the foundation above the planning mark by at least 40-50 cm.

Additional protection factors for the log house include splash-proof canopies protruding above the base, long roof overhangs (75-120 cm) and the installation of roof gutters and pipes.

Orientation of logs when laying. Every tree has a natural curvature due to wind loads as the tree grows. When laying logs, they must be laid with the curvature upward so that the loads from the overlying structures compensate for the bending of the wood. If this principle is not followed, the logs will stick out to the sides. Normally, the deviation of the crowns of chopped walls from the horizontal per 1 m of length should not exceed 3 mm.

The size of the inter-crown gaps should not exceed 1 mm. With the Russian felling system it is quite difficult to carry out this condition, since as the wood dries, the cracks open up. The Norwegian cutting system with a wedging longitudinal groove and a sliding self-jamming lock has an advantage, in which, as the wood dries, the logs shrink relative to each other, reducing the size of the inter-crown cracks.

In Russia, they traditionally continue to insulate the roof gaps of log houses natural materials, such as flax, jute, felt, moss, etc., which are not elastic, are subject to biological destruction, and are a breeding ground for microorganisms and insects. All of these materials require repeated caulking. Meanwhile, in Scandinavia, elastic self-expanding polyethylene foam tape is used as an interventional sealant, the use of which eliminates the need for repeated caulking.

If possible, you should avoid joining logs in crowns along the length. Such connections weaken the structure of the log house, and the walls of the log house may become deformed. The logs used in the structure should be as solid as possible. And you definitely shouldn’t make connections at the intersections of walls, where load concentrations occur.

Shrinkage and swelling of wood along the grain is more pronounced than across the grain. Therefore everything vertical racks and the columns must be equipped with jacking platforms and shrinkage compensators, which are tightened to the required amount of shrinkage, which can last up to 6-8 years or more. Perhaps more aesthetic option is to install shrinkage compensators at the bottom of the columns, where they are not so noticeable.

It is not recommended to cut openings for windows and doors in the log house until the end of the first active drying period of the wood (6-12 months). During this same period, you should not hem the floor, ceiling or sheathe the walls, as this will interfere with normal ventilation and drying of the wood.

Special attention It is worth paying attention to the ventilation of the underground space when installing wooden floors. The minimum cross-sectional area of ​​one vent must be at least 0.05 m2, and total area there should be at least 1/400 of the underground area. It should be noted that this design ceilings is already archaic. In the world, they mainly use floors on the ground, which allow you to use geoheat, avoid problems with humidity in the underground space and the flow of radioactive soil gases into the house.

3. Errors in finishing a log house.

When installing window and doorways we should remember that minimum distance between the openings is 90 cm. The walls must be reinforced with dowels. For installation in log houses, it is better to use windows and doors with frames at least 10 cm wide, which does not allow window and door block deform during secondary caulking of the house.

The fastening of frame bars for door and window frames must be sliding - without the use of nails, as shrinkage wooden house can last quite a long time. Above the windows and doors, compensation gaps are left under the heaving of the top log for shrinkage of 5-8% of the opening height.

It is better to use self-expanding elastic sealing tapes to seal window and door frames. Regular polyurethane foam may deform when expanded window frames, and when the wood shrinks, cracks form. If it is used, then after hardening it should be covered outside from exposure to the sun and moisture with waterproofing, vapor-permeable, self-adhesive butyl rubber tape. The foam must be covered from the inside vapor barrier tape. Unprotected foam deteriorates quickly, as in the house in the photo below.

Finishing the inter-crown seams of the assembled log house after the end of the first stage of intensive drying (12-24 months) with glazing beads or rope is only decorative, contributing to the waste of money and time, but not protecting the walls from blowing. Modern elastic and vapor-permeable inter-crown sealants (for example, from the domestic manufacturer SAZI) make it possible to protect inter-crown cracks from through blowing and create an aesthetically pleasing appearance of the walls.

Application of inter-crown sealant.

External insulation of a wooden house. Most often, external insulation has to be resorted to when construction defects are discovered, such as through blowing through the walls. The main and most critical mistake is the external insulation of a wooden house with vapor-tight insulation (expanded polystyrene, polyethylene foam). In this case, the tree is deprived of the opportunity to dry out and is moistened, which increases its thermal conductivity and accelerates biological destruction. Clause 8.8 of SP 23-101-2004 “Design of thermal protection of buildings” requires the placement of layers multilayer walls in such a way that the vapor permeability of materials from the inside to the outside of a heated house increases rather than decreases.

Aesthetics of a wooden house. Often lovers of wooden houses, where all interior elements, such as walls, floors, ceilings, beams, railings, furniture are made of wood, find that, perhaps, they have gone a little overboard with the quantity wooden surfaces, which create the feeling of living in a “wooden box”. Changing furniture and painting walls comes to the rescue. However, it is wiser to plan contrasting surfaces in the house at the design stage. These can be floors, ceilings, kitchen countertops, steel elements of stairs and fences, decorative walls made of natural or artificial stone.

The rounded log undergoes multi-stage processing, which makes it very convenient for installation: the diameter is the same along the entire length and the connecting elements are carefully designed at the production site. Services professional builders are expensive, but you can easily handle this material yourself, so assembling a log house from rounded logs with your own hands will allow you to save a lot of money.

Types of log house

You can assemble a rounded log house with your own hands in just a few days, but for this you need the maximum high-quality processing surfaces of logs and connecting bowls. Therefore, you need to purchase this material in large companies, which have sufficient production capacity and normal technical equipment to cope with orders at a high quality level.

To properly assemble a log house, it is necessary to lay the processed logs according to the scheme in compliance with construction technology. There are several options for constructing a log house:

Sequence of actions during installation

How to assemble a log house with your own hands: the work begins with creating a project, which can be found ready-made or developed from scratch. After a location on the site has been selected, it must be cleared of debris and various green spaces, after which the foundation is built. For buildings of this type, it is most often chosen strip base, which is laid around the perimeter of the house and in the locations of partitions.

When the base is completely dry and hardened, you can proceed to installing the walls using technology. Companies that produce rounding offer customers the opportunity to purchase a wall kit consisting of numbered tree trunks treated with antiseptics.

How long does it take to assemble a log house? - The work itself may take only a few days, but after completion of construction the building is left for a period of shrinkage. The full process lasts at least a year. During this period, the building cannot be heated, as due to the difference in temperatures, the wood may begin to crack.

How to assemble a finished log house with your own hands - sequence of work stages:

Knowing how to assemble a rounded log house, you can quickly build a strong and warm building which will last for many years. When the last crown is laid and the floor beams are installed, you can begin installing the rafters and installation roofing system. A wooden house goes well and looks harmonious with various materials for the roof.

Finishing

It is often said that a structure made from cylinders does not need additional finishing, since the wood is beautiful in itself. This is partly true: the natural pattern and color of wood are very attractive, and there is no need to cover them with any other materials, and the wall does not need to be leveled.

And yet, it will not be possible to leave a house made of rounded logs completely unfinished, since living material needs full protection from destruction: the tree is threatened by biological and physical negative factors. There are several types of finishing work:

A cylinder house is one of the most common and sought-after types of suburban construction. It can be built from ready-made elements without the involvement of professionals and thereby save a lot of money. This is an excellent choice for both a summer residence and permanent residence.

When wondering what kind of house I would like to live in, for some reason I remember a tower from children's fairy tales. Why not? A wooden house has an excellent internal climate: warm in winter and cool in summer, always dry, even in very humid areas, wonderful rich aroma wood creates not just comfort, but also a wonderful atmosphere for life and creativity. In your search for the ideal home, you inevitably come to the realization that no one has come up with anything better than log houses. They are beautiful, practical, do not require finishing, retain heat perfectly and are absolutely environmentally friendly, if not even healing. Building a log house is a very responsible and labor-intensive task, although our ancestors overwhelmingly built such houses on their own, everyone knew the technology that was passed on from generation to generation, but today the thread of knowledge has been broken. There are very few good architects left, but there are industrial methods construction of wooden houses. Of course, you can choose turnkey log houses, but within the framework of this article we will consider options for how to build log house with your own hands.

Rounded or planed (chopped) log - which is better?

In total, two types of buildings are called log houses: the first is made of chopped logs, i.e. planed by hand, it is also called “wild log house”, the second is made from logs rounded on a special machine. Let's figure out which option is better.

Until the beginning of the twentieth century, all log houses were exclusively "wild log house". What does this mean? All the logs were processed by hand, carefully removed from a freshly cut tree upper layer- bark, while trying to keep the bast layer intact, which protects the deeper layers of wood from moisture from the outside. This provided amazing resistance to fungi and mold. Obviously, the sawn log tapers from the lower end, which is closer to the root, to the upper end, which is closest to the top. Even after processing, this difference in diameter remains; the closer to the top, the thinner the log. Enough tall tree can be cut into 3 logs: the thickest one, the end of which is located near the rhizome, is called the butt, the middle one is called the druga, and the top one is the third or top. The butt was always used for construction, as it is the most durable, thickest and has a smaller change in diameter. To compensate for the difference in thickness, when constructing a log house, the butt and top were always alternated. In one crown, the butt “looks” in one direction, and in the next, in the opposite direction. Selecting hand-cut logs is not an easy task, because it is necessary to create an even, durable structure from logs of different diameters.

The technology for building log houses has remained virtually unchanged to this day. Everyone also builds houses from different-sized logs, trying to fit them as perfectly as possible. Moreover, such houses are considered luxury housing, and the services for their construction are much more expensive than houses made of timber or even rounded logs. This is dictated by the complexity, duration and labor intensity of the work. After construction, a log house made from chopped logs must stand for at least 1 - 1.5 years, during which time the wood will shrink by about 5 - 7%. Only after this can you start decorating the house: installing doors, windows, installing communications, etc. In general, in addition to the colossal work of preparing and individually fitting the logs, a lot of waiting time will be required.

Thanks to modern technologies All inconveniences can be avoided using planed logs. On special machines V industrial conditions logs are processed to perfection cylindrical, a groove is also cut into them for further fastening into crowns. All dimensions are adjusted to the millimeter. This greatly simplifies the work when constructing a log house; it simply resembles assembling a construction kit according to instructions and drawings.

A very light and convenient material for construction, but it has lost all the advantages of planed logs in production. The fact is that during the production process, not only the bark is removed from the log, but also all the upper layers, including the sapwood, leaving only mature and sound wood, which is not protected from external factors. Therefore, when used, a rounded log is treated with special antiseptics and other antifungal and anti-rot impregnations, as well as agents that prevent insect damage. The result is: comfortable, beautiful, very smooth and less durable and environmentally friendly. In addition, the maximum diameter of such a log is less than 300 mm, while a chopped log can be of any diameter.

For ready-made log houses, the price depends precisely on what kind of log was used: chopped or rounded. Log houses are more expensive. And although many say that they look less aesthetically pleasing, in fact this is not the case: from hand-planed logs you can create a personal masterpiece that will be unlike any other home in the world. At the same time, the walls look primitive and unusual. It is much easier to build a house from rounded logs, especially on your own, since the human factor is almost completely eliminated.

Log houses: projects, technologies, cost

Any construction begins with the creation of a project, and the construction of a log house is no exception. You can take a ready-made project, or you can make it individual by ordering it from a special bureau. You shouldn’t first pour the foundation and then think about what kind of house you would like to build, because it will be quite difficult to adjust it to the dimensions of a ready-made foundation.

The cost of a log house depends on its number of storeys, material and complexity of the structure. Houses may have one floor, or two or three. The walls can be adjacent to each other at almost any angle, since the logs can be cut into a bowl of any shape. Those. a polygon-shaped wall is quite normal for a log house.

Today, log houses are built in two ways: logs are prepared directly on the construction site from chopped wood, or a house is assembled according to a drawing from rounded logs pre-made and fitted at the factory.

In the first case, the forest is always naturally moist, i.e. After construction, the log house is caulked and left for a year and a half to shrink, and only then work continues. Installation of windows and doors is carried out using two technologies: the first is to immediately cut the logs to the required length, leaving space for a window or doorway, the second is based on first allowing the wood to dry evenly, shrink, and only then next year, cut out openings. The second option is preferable, as it ensures the strength and durability of the log house due to uniform shrinkage. But this is a waste of time. And the first option is faster, so it is used more often, although to the detriment of the log house itself.

Rounded logs are sold both at natural moisture content and dried in production. The designer always assumes that all the logs already have their final length, all that remains is to assemble it. Companies involved in the construction of houses from rounded logs rarely agree to build from unprocessed logs; almost always adjustment and complete assembly At home, it is carried out in production, then the log house is marked, disassembled and transported to the site, where it is reassembled.

How much a log house costs depends not only on the type of log, but also on its diameter, as well as related work, which the customer asks to fulfill. For example, the construction of only a log house from rounded logs will cost approximately 280 - 350 USD. for 1 m2, from chopped logs - 350 - 450 USD. for 1 m2. If you order in construction company arrangement of the foundation, carrying out communications, finishing the house, in in general everything is everything, then count on 1000 USD. for 1 m2.

How to choose the right wood for a log house

Most often construction log houses made from coniferous wood: pine, spruce, larch, cedar, but you can also use aspen, oak, ash and other deciduous trees. Pine and spruce are the most affordable materials, so they prevail. It is necessary to purchase logs cut down in winter; such wood has ideal moisture resistance characteristics.

If you have the opportunity to choose, it is better to opt for northern coniferous wood, it is more resistant to negative influences. A good option- pine from the Baltic coast and Canadian spruce. But prepared in middle lane wood is also not bad if all storage, drying and transportation conditions are met.

Important! Please note when choosing wood that wood grown in different climatic zones will have completely different characteristics and density levels, despite the same processing conditions.

It is better to buy wood from a proven and reliable harvester. The strength of the entire house depends on this. If you make a mistake with the wood, it's a waste of money. The diameter of the logs is selected depending on the design of the house and the severity of the winter cold. For example, if the temperature in winter does not drop below -20 °C, 200 mm of logs are enough, if up to -30 °C, then 220 mm of logs, and if up to -40 °C, then 240 - 260 mm. Of course, these calculations are purely advisory in nature. You can safely choose logs of greater thickness, up to 500 - 600 mm in diameter, or use 250 mm logs in a fairly warm climate, the tree compensates for temperature changes.

When you come to a sawmill or timber warehouse, pay attention to the following features:

• The surface of the logs should be yellow or dark yellow.
• The cut should be tight and even, without blue spots.
• The core should occupy ¾ of the cut and have an even dark shade.
• There should be no resin pockets.
• It's better if there are no branches. But even if they are present, they should sit without gaps. If you see such a picture, it means the core is rotten.
• When the ax hits the end of the log, there should be a ringing sound.
• The maximum depth of a permissible crack in a log should be 1/3 of the cut.
• The logs should not be twisted; in the construction of a house they can only be used for floorboards and rafters, having previously been cut into bars.

Feel free to reject logs with the above flaws. If you are buying a project house made of rounded logs, be sure to include a clause in the contract obliging you to replace substandard logs at the company’s expense upon the customer’s first request. Pay attention to the conditions in which the timber was stored, whether all requirements were met, or maybe after a couple of months mold will appear on the logs.

DIY log house

The easiest option for self-construction is a house made of rounded logs. We will consider this further, since a log house will still require not only the ability to hold a tool in your hands, but also decent experience in working with wood.

First of all, we order a project or a house based on a ready-made project from a special company. After we have discussed all the issues, the factory produces a complete set of logs for our house, as well as floor beams, joists and rafters. This is where the house is assembled for the first time to make sure that all the logs are cut correctly. The house is then dismantled.

Our participation begins with an inspection of the timber package. Then we must prepare a place on the building site for storing wood, equipping it with a canopy so that the wood does not get wet in the rain.

Foundation for a log house

Before building a log house, it is necessary to arrange the foundation on which it will stand. Since a wooden house is a relatively light structure, the foundation can be made shallow. Most often used pile-strip foundation, pile, slab and less often buried strip.

Let's consider a pile-strip foundation.

• We mark the area, then remove the top fertile layer and set it aside for landscaping needs.
• We excavate the soil to a depth of up to 30 cm across the width of the strip foundation.
• Along the perimeter of the building, in increments of about 2 m, we drill wells with a diameter of up to 180 mm, to the depth of soil freezing, i.e. 150 cm.
• We fill the wells with a layer of sand and crushed stone.
• We weld the frame from the reinforcement and lower it into the well.
• We fill the well with concrete, then tamp it with a vibrator.
• We install wooden formwork for the strip foundation. It should protrude no less than 50 - 60 cm above the ground level.
• We weld the frame for the strip foundation and connect it to the reinforcement sticking out of the wells.
• We fill the strip foundation with concrete, compact it and wait for it to harden.

After the foundation has completely dried, you can begin waterproofing it. This is especially important since our house is made of wood. We lay roofing material on the foundation in 3 - 4 layers and additionally coat it with mastic.

Construction of a log house from rounded logs: erection of walls

Please note, this is extremely important; the first crown - the mortgage - cannot be installed directly on the foundation. Although you may encounter such a design, be aware that it threatens that the mortgage crown will quickly become unusable.

So, to begin with, we lay the so-called “backing” linden board on the foundation. This can be a beam about 50 - 100 mm thick and at least 150 mm wide. Then we begin to assemble the log house:

Important! The lower mortgage rim must have an end cut off at the bottom with a width of at least 150 mm. This is necessary so that the house rests firmly on the plane of the end. If you suddenly notice that the crown logs have the same groove as all the others, contact the manufacturer and request a replacement.

• The first two logs of the mortgage crown are laid on opposite walls foundation parallel to each other, on a backing board. We carefully check their even position.

Important! All logs included in the set already have a factory-made groove for a longitudinal connection and a locking gusset. Most often this is a moon groove and a “bowl” connection.

• We lay insulation on the logs that we will lay on the remaining two sides. We fill the entire groove and recess of the bowl with caulking material. It could be moss, tow, hemp or jute. Most often, for caulking rounded logs, jute or linen tape insulation is used with a width corresponding to the width of the groove in the log. We spread the insulation so that at the edges it hangs 5 ​​- 6 cm on each side. We fasten it using a construction stapler.

Important! The recess must be completely filled with insulation. When it spreads jute tape, it covers everything longitudinal groove, but in the bowl it only goes through the middle. Therefore, in the area of ​​the bowl it is necessary to insulate with two pieces.

• We install two logs on the transverse sides of the foundation, resting them on the mortgage crown. The bowls should fit together neatly. We check that there is between the logs required angle eg 90°. We control the level of their horizontality. The insulation should hang from the log.

• We install all other crowns according to the same scheme, assembling them like a construction set.
• For greater strength, some technologies involve fastening the crowns together not only with the help of grooves and bowls, but also with dowels. This wooden slats made of denser wood. A hole is drilled in the logs to a depth of more than one log and a dowel is inserted into the hole.

• The last two crowns are not secured. This is necessary for proper shrinkage.

Important! We must treat all logs with antiseptics, otherwise they will rot in the first winter.

Do not forget to constantly check the correct installation. Horizontal logs and strict verticality of the log house are required. The rounded log house kit includes holes for window and door frames. We carefully lay the short logs and secure them carefully.

Installation of a log house roof

Log walls cannot be left without a roof, so immediately after the walls are erected, we cover the frame. Rafters and floor beams are included in the kit. The rafters can be installed directly on the logs of the upper crown, or you can first lay the mauerlat (beam for the rafters).

If the project provides for a veranda, then we insert special shrinkage compensators, because horizontally laid logs will dry out and shrink, but vertical logs will not. To prevent the house from warping, all vertical logs must be equipped with compensators.

We connect the ridge logs using metal pins. We install the rafters in increments of 600 mm. For this we use 50x200 mm timber. TO the last crown we fix the rafters on sliding supports. We lay it on top of the rafters waterproofing film. Then we attach the sheathing, the pitch of which depends on the chosen roofing material. IN last resort laying roofing material.

After the walls of the log house are ready and the roof is installed, all the insulation that sticks out of the logs should be carefully caulked. To do this, using a caulking tool (tool), we wrap these 5 - 6 cm of insulation down and push it inside the gap between the crowns. Then we make a pushing movement at the top of the gap and in the middle.

In this condition: with the roof and walls caulked for the first time, we leave the house for a year to shrink.

A year later, we repeat the caulking, sealing all newly formed cracks and gaps with tow, hemp or jute.

Important! Sometimes it is advised to carry out another caulking after the house is whole year be operated with the heating turned on in winter.

Installation of doors, windows, installation of ceilings and floors

All windows, doors and partitions are installed only after maximum shrinkage of the log house, i.e. a year after construction.

Neither doors nor windows are placed directly into openings. To begin with, wooden casing boxes with compensation fastening and they already have windows and doors. This precaution is due to the fact that wood is a plastic material. It expands from moisture and shrinks from its lack, in addition, the shrinkage of a wooden house lasts 5 - 6 years. And although a rounded log is less susceptible to shrinkage, casing is still necessary.

The floor joists of the first floor cut into the embedded crown or the subsequent one. They must be firmly attached. Since the embedded crown must be well ventilated so as not to rot longer, it is recommended to install the floor on the joists with the crown higher.

At this stage you can already mount heating system and other communications, install interior doors, slopes, baseboards, plumbing and other finishing.

Now that the log house is ready, you can move in. In conclusion, I would like to note that logs of insufficient length can be joined, but it is important to make a connecting groove, and there should not be many such joints in one wall. Vents should be provided in the foundation for free ventilation of the underground. And don’t forget, you can’t leave the log house uncovered with a roof or at least a film, and also don’t treat it with an antiseptic. A rounded log can deteriorate even in one season.

Many people are faced with the acute question of building an inexpensive house. After all, your own separate housing is one of the main necessary vital factors.

Of the famous building materials The cheapest, warmest, healthiest, providing comfortable living is wood.

Of the inexpensive woods, pine is the most budget-friendly. And it is very desirable and preferable that it be prepared in winter. Such logs are less susceptible to deformation and rotting. The diameter of the log, so that the house does not freeze in winter and is warm, needs at least 250 mm, and better yet 270 mm. But the larger the diameter, the more expensive the logs will be.

To make a house truly inexpensive, you need to build it yourself. But without experience in this matter it will be difficult. Yes, and marriage, and sometimes irreparable, is unlikely to be avoided. The best option would be to order the production of a log house and its assembly at the enterprise, and interior decoration Save money by doing the work yourself.

Now there are a lot of companies offering their services for the design, manufacture and installation of turnkey log houses. Check out several of them, listen to reviews, look at the objects they have built and make your choice based on price-quality ratio.

Select the project you like from those available, or pay for the design documentation for your individual project. They will be cheaper standard projects, already available. Some enterprises charge a nominal fee for a finished project, subject to placing an order for the manufacture of a log house at their enterprise.

Each construction consists of several stages:

Foundation structure

This type of work is expensive and time-consuming, but can be much cheaper if you do it yourself.
Under wooden frame You need a strong, not wide foundation. It can be of several types:

• tape, monolithic,
• columnar,
• concrete pads,
• pile with grillage device.

On sandy loamy, sandy soils you can build a monolithic strip foundation. On buried soils groundwater shallow from the surface is better suited pile foundation with a grillage device, which acts as a strengthening concrete beam not resting on the ground. In order to save money, you can make a foundation from concrete pads at an equal distance from each other or the most economical option- This is a columnar foundation. It's also quite durable.

During foundation work, it is necessary to lay tunnels for the necessary communications or leave holes so that later you do not have to punch them in a ready-made foundation.

Construction of log walls

It is better to entrust such work to specialists, but if you have the desire and experience, then in consultation with specialists this work may be up to you.

You can build the walls of a house from logs in any season. Under lower crown, a layer of waterproofing material is laid on the foundation - for example, roofing felt. And on top of it, across the foundation, prepared planks are placed, pre-treated with an antiseptic solution.

The first row of logs is installed on them, aligning it in a horizontal plane along construction level. After correct installation of the first crown, it is necessary to place sealing material along the entire plane of the logs. It comes in several types:

• tow,
• jute,
• PSUL,
• PPE (polyethylene foam tape with an adhesive layer), etc.

The most traditional and environmentally friendly moss, now there are many new sealants, with good performance. But it is still better to give preference to natural ones.

The crowns can be fastened together with metal pins, or wooden dowels in a checkerboard pattern.

After installing the log house, it is given time to settle, from 4 to 6 months, depending on the quality and dryness of the wood. Boards are laid on the assembled log house and covered with waterproof material.

Roofing

When the shrinkage time of the log house has ended, you can make a roof. First for styling ceiling beams in the last, top row of logs, notches or notches are cut according to the size of the ceiling beams. This is done at equal meter distances, beams are laid in them and construction of the roof begins. On a wooden house, so that the roof does not warp or tear any elements, it is not tightly tied to the mauerlat and gables.

The roof frame is assembled, and after that the sheathing is arranged. For soft tiles, a continuous coating of OSB is done, and if the roof is covered with ondulin. enough sheathing. It is recommended to cover the sheathing with vapor barrier materials.

Installation of window and door openings

This work is done after shrinking the log house, using a chainsaw. Window and door openings are reinforced with casings.

To reduce the cost of construction, you can do the rest of the work yourself:

Log processing and caulking, antiseptic treatment

The logs are processed by stripping and then grinding, using a grinder or grinder, with a different-sized sanding surface. After such treatments, the appearance is significantly improved and ennobled.

The joints between the upper and lower logs and joints are caulked. This is done with strands of various natural and synthetic materials, or paste. Caulk is needed both outside and inside so that cold bridges do not form and there are no cracks.

Finish with treatment with antiseptic solutions. Fortunately, complex products are now available - “two in one”, or “three in one”, which, when applied, create, in addition to antiseptic treatment and decorative effect, since they are also a varnish that you save on if you use universal solutions.

Window and door installation work

You can entrust this to a specialist, or you can do it yourself in order to save money.

Ceiling device

When making a ceiling in a wooden house, it is usually made of two parts: rough and clean. The rough ceiling has the form of a box into which insulating materials are placed. and then they attach a clean one to it. It can be made from different materials from OSB, boards, lining; suspended and tensioned. The most inexpensive would be a ceiling made of OSB.

Floor installation work

They involve laying joists and making a subfloor, which, like a subfloor, can be filled with insulating material. The finished floor is optionally made from boards or plywood, chipboard or OSB.

Electrical installation

If you do not have the skill, then all electrical work should be performed by specialists. this includes work:

• laying wires in cable channels,
• connection to the electrical panel,
• installation of switches and sockets,
• installation of lighting devices.

Installation of water supply

Implemented PVC pipes, metal-plastic and metal. Plumbing works consist of:

• riser devices,
• connecting devices.

Sewerage and plumbing work

If the site does not have a central sewer system, then they arrange it themselves. When groundwater is close to the ground, one or more septic tanks are dug in to clean and filter waste products. And if the soil has deep groundwater, you can build a cesspool from concrete rings.

A riser is laid inside the house and plumbing fixtures are connected:

• toilet,
• bath,
• shells.

Interior wall decoration

It can be made to suit any taste and color, from any materials that suit you. But the wood itself, sanded and coated with wax or varnish, will be very decorative for a long time. And this is the most economical option.

Experts advise finishing the walls inside wood panels, blockhouse or clapboard. And in the kitchen and bathroom, before tiling the walls, gypsum fiber board sheets are attached to the walls for strength and evenness.

It is quite possible to do many types of work with your own hands. The cost savings in this case will be significant, but the time frame for building an inexpensive log house will be delayed in this case. Here you need to proceed from possibilities and desires. When combining one with the other, prioritize in order of importance. If you need inexpensive house from a turnkey log house in a short time, then it would be better for all the work to be done by specialists from one company; many organizations offer discounts on a range of services. Well, if you are limited in finances, then at such enterprises there is a system of loans to pay for work, or take on yourself those types of work that you are confident that you can handle.

If during the process of building a house made of rounded logs any technical issues arise, they must be resolved not with the customer, but with the foreman. The foreman and foreman must agree on controversial situations in advance so as not to have to redo all the work later.

The algorithm for assembling a house from the following:

1. Check the foundation for dimensions and horizontality;

2. We lay waterproofing. In this case, glass insulation should be laid in one layer, and roofing felt - in two layers. The surface of the foundation must be completely covered with an even layer of waterproofing, and also protrude beyond its limits by two to three centimeters on all sides;

3. According to the drawing, we install the transfers (the first floor and the next ones, if provided) and the lower trim. We impregnate the timber on all sides with a fire-retardant compound. Since the beams can be twisted by a screw when they dry, all joints must fit tightly, which can be achieved with the help of staples and nails. The floor will subsequently be laid on the beams. If the floor transfers do not rest in full height on the foundation, they cannot be weakened;

4. The maximum permissible discrepancy between the diagonals of the structure should not exceed 5 millimeters;

5. The lower frame is not attached to the foundation;

6. Half-logs (mortgages) should be installed only after re-checking the diagonality and installing the first crown on the timber frame, and secure it with dowels;

7. When laying subsequent rows, verticality must be checked from the inside of the frame with a level;

8. In order to drill holes for dowels in a log, it should first be leveled and then temporarily nailed on both sides (this will prevent the log from moving during the drilling process). At the end of the process, all nails are removed;

9. To seal the crowns, flax fiber is used, which is laid in one layer, excluding openings;

10. The flax fiber layer should have a width that is 1-2 centimeters smaller than the width of the groove;

11. Since shrinkage and drying of the log occurs more intensely in door, window and other openings, flax fiber should be laid on one third of the log in two layers, starting from the opening. If the length of the logs is less than one meter, a double layer of flax fiber is also used when assembling them.

12. In order for parallel logs to rise in the openings simultaneously, their horizontalness must be controlled on each row;

13. Using a stapler, the staples are adjusted so as to take into account the trimming of the openings with a chainsaw, and subsequently not dull the chain;

14. In a checkerboard pattern along the edges, the flax fiber should be secured with brackets into the corresponding bowls and grooves. Next, the flax fiber protruding outward is caulked. In cups it should be laid in two layers. In the process of growing flax fiber, the tapes should overlap by five to ten centimeters;

15. The gap formed when joining the half cups of two logs should be about one centimeter. It should be immediately caulked with flax fiber to avoid the formation of cold bridges. The foreman is obliged to check this stage of work;

16. When assembling a log house, you should definitely control the positions of the logs of the upper crown, which should be parallel to each other. Sagging of individual crowns is unacceptable, since as the house shrinks, it will increase continuously. In this regard, it is necessary to foresee in advance the possibility of laying an additional layer of flax fiber;

17. Holes for dowels are drilled in a checkerboard pattern on each subsequent crown so that they do not overlap one another. Pins that are already hammered in should be marked with a pencil so that they are not visible on the log house;

19. The dowel is sunk into the log to a depth of three centimeters. If you neglect this rule, in the future the log house will hang on the dowels. If the foreman discovers non-recessed dowels during work, the team, at its own expense, disassembles the structure and reassembles it;

20. During work, it is periodically necessary to sharpen the drill with a file, and not with a grinder. It is strictly forbidden to grind the semicircular part of the drill (protruding, cutting) below the flat working edge. If you work with a dull drill, this will very soon lead to its overheating, and, as a result, to breakdown. Repair of the drill due to its breakdown as a result of working in a dull state, amortization of the foreman’s travel expenses, downtime due to repairs - all this is paid from the team’s salary;

21. Having laid the logs and secured them with dowels, the structure must be hammered with a large wooden mallet made of timber or logs, or with a sledgehammer;

22. Responsibility for nails left in the cups and walls of the log house lies entirely with the members of the team;

23. The joints of logs in half cups must be fastened with 8 * 250 staples, which are recessed flush into an existing groove or one previously prepared using a chainsaw.

24. So that the log house does not spread over time long walls, it should be monitored periodically horizontal dimensions(optimally – every five to six crowns);

25. If the cup of the log is not deep enough, the log hangs in it, which leads to the formation of a gap in the groove of this and the crown below. The presence of such a defect is unacceptable, so the situation is corrected by increasing the depth of the cup with a chainsaw. The foreman is responsible for monitoring the process;

26. If, when assembling a log house, builders find visible defects in the log - black knots, wane, chips, they are obliged to inform the foreman about this. The solution to the problem can be either moving the log to another location or replacing it. If the defect is barely noticeable, the log can be moved so that it is hardly noticeable;

27. Installing round support posts with screw jacks required:

• Cut a cup at the bottom of the post;
• End up on required height pillar, taking into account the subsequent lowering of the jack by 8-10 centimeters;
• If there is more than one pillar, place the installation locations of the remaining pillars along the cord;
• Drill holes for the jack strictly in the center of the log’s circumference;
• Secure the jack platform with galvanized nails or self-tapping screws;
• Install the pillars strictly vertically and in one line;
• Adjust the jacks.

28. When installing gables, you should constantly monitor the verticality of the wall, securing it with braces during installation, which is especially important during installation high gables. Each log should be secured with at least two dowels. When further trimming the gables during installation of the rafters, it is necessary to prevent sawing of the dowels. Temporarily boarding the wall vertically without recessing the nail heads will help prevent the logs from falling out of the gable wall.

29. Having finished assembling the log house, you should perform the following actions:

• Check if all logs are clean; if not, wash them thoroughly;
• Remove nails from the log house; if there are nailed signs on the ends of the logs, remove them;
• Remove sawdust and other things from the foundation and walls construction garbage to one place;
• Store the remaining lumber;
• If in order to continue work it is necessary to dismantle and store the scaffolding, do so;
• Move garbage and cuttings of boards to one place;
• Bring the territory, change house and toilet to the state in which they were at the time of the start construction work;
• Turn off electricity and gas.

30. The acceptance of work is carried out by the foreman, on the basis of this a Work Acceptance Certificate is drawn up.

The following have been familiarized with the Instructions: Team members: __________________________ __________________________ __________________________ __________________________ Foreman: ____________________

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