Making a log house with your own hands. Mini-house - compact log house from FORUMHOUSE member

IN Lately Antique fashion became a popular trend. It quickly spread to the construction of houses. Today, many people are building wooden banks and country houses, which is considered a sign of wealth and refined taste, but the cost of such buildings is sometimes much higher compared to brick ones. There is no need to talk about the appearance at all - it causes delight.

Material for building huts has become available everywhere today. If you also decide to build a log house with your own hands, then you should become more familiar with the algorithm for carrying out the work. For example, if previously huts were built without a single nail, the process has changed over time. It requires certain skills and additional methods of wood processing.

The first thing you have to do is decide which foundation to choose for the house. There are truly a lot of options here, because such a building has little weight, which means it can be installed on a shallow foundation.

Project preparation and cost

Before starting construction, you will need to draw up a design for the log house. Usually this matter is left to specialists. But if you have the appropriate skills, then you can do it yourself, saving a lot of money. But the construction of the house itself will cost you 656,700 rubles, if we are talking about a building whose dimensions are 9x12.6 m. in this case we are talking about a building with an attic, which combines small area and practical layout.

This house has everything necessary premises. It can accommodate 8 people. The task assumes the presence of 4 bedrooms. The area of the first floor is 90.5 m2. The living room will be 36.1 m2. The kitchen-dining room holds 10.7 m2.

Another log house project involves the construction of a house whose dimensions are 5.6x10 m. Its price will be 412,500 rubles. This building has two rooms and a kitchen combined with a living room. This layout is considered economical. It is suitable for those who want to live in their own home, but have a very limited budget. The building can accommodate 4 people. The kitchen-living room has an area of 9.6 m2. Each room is a room of 9.1 m2. This cottage It can also become a country residence, as well as a guest house for a recreation center.

More information about the cost

A 6x6 m log house will cost you 86,000 rubles if you only plan to install the box. But a log house with a set costs 125,000 rubles. It includes:

box;
beams (ceiling and floor);
rafters;
roof sheathing;
gable trim.

When building a house at this cost, logs with a diameter ranging from 18 to 20 cm are used for the box. At the top there may be several logs with a smaller diameter (14-16 cm). The height of the log house with such a project will be 2.1 m. However, manufacturers offer buyers a choice of any wall height. Beams in the form of round timber are used for ceilings and floors.

Work on the foundation

Before you build a log house with your own hands, you must arrange the foundation. Most often this is a pile, strip or slab structure. To build a pile-tape type of foundation, you must first mark out the area, remove the fertile layer of soil and set it aside so that it can later be used for landscape needs. It is necessary to excavate the width of the base, going 30 cm deep. Along the perimeter of the house, in increments of about 2 m, it is necessary to drill wells, the diameter of which will be 180 mm. The lower mark should be on the freezing line of the soil, which is approximately 150 cm.

The bottom of the well should be filled with a layer of sand and crushed stone, and then a reinforcement frame should be prepared and lowered inside. The well is filled with concrete, it should be compacted and wooden formwork for the foundation should be installed. It should protrude about 60 cm above the ground level. For the base, you need to prepare a frame by tying it to the protruding reinforcement.

The strip foundation is also filled with concrete; it should be left in this state until it hardens. After the solution has dried, you can begin waterproofing. This is especially important since the house will be made of wood. Therefore, several layers of roofing material are laid on the surface of the foundation, which are additionally coated with mastic.

Walling

When building a log house with your own hands, next stage You can start building walls. The first crown will be a mortgage and cannot be laid on the foundation. This can be dangerous because the material at its base will quickly become unusable. A linden backing board is used as preparation. This can be a timber with a thickness ranging from 50 to 100 mm. The width should be approximately 150 mm or more.

Now you can start assembling the frame. The end of the lower mortgage crown should be cut off; its width will be 150 mm. This will ensure that the building rests firmly on the plane of the end. If you notice that the logs of the first crown have the same groove as all the others, you must request that this unit be replaced.

When building a log house with your own hands, you must lay the first two logs on opposite walls foundation. Thus, they will be located parallel to each other. Their position should be aligned. All logs must have grooves for longitudinal and locking corner connections. The most commonly used for this purpose is a moon groove or a bowl connection.

Insulation should be laid on the logs that will be located on the remaining two sides. Material for caulking will also be required for the recesses of the bowl, as well as the grooves. For this you can use:

jute;
hemp;
tow;

Do-it-yourself caulking of a log house is most often done with flax or jute tape insulation. Its width should be equal to the width of the groove. The insulation must be divided so that it hangs 6 cm at the edges. Fastening must be done with a construction stapler.

Work methodology

To keep the house warm on winter evenings, the entire cavity is filled with insulation. Jute tape must cover longitudinal groove, but in the bowl it will be located only in the central part. In the area of the bowl, the surface should be insulated with two pieces. Two logs are installed on the transverse sides, and they must be supported on the embedded crown. The bowls are connected to each other.

A right angle should form between the logs. It is important to check the horizontal level of the logs, while the insulation should hang down on both sides. When building a house from a log, you must lay the remaining crowns according to the scheme described above. To ensure strength, you can use fastening of the crowns using dowels. They are wooden slats made of dense wood.

To do this, you need to make holes in the logs, going deeper than the width of one log. Dowels are inserted into the prepared grooves. The last pair of crowns is not fixed; this is required for shrinkage. All logs must be treated with an antiseptic, otherwise they will rot in the first year. The correctness of laying must be constantly checked - the logs must be laid horizontally. At the stage of assembling the house, you must also make sure that the walls are vertical. The house kit includes holes for door and window openings. It is important to lay short logs, fixing them well.

Erection of the roof

If you have built a log house from rounded logs with your own hands (its construction was discussed above), then you cannot leave it without a roof. Rafters and floor beams are usually supplied as a set. The rafters can be installed on the logs of the upper crown, but you can begin the construction of the roof by installing the Mauerlat. It is a beam for rafters. If the project includes a veranda, then shrinkage compensators must be inserted into the vertical log, because horizontal logs will dry out and shrink, which cannot be said about vertical logs.

To ensure that the building does not warp, vertical logs must have such compensators. Ridge logs are connected with metal pins. A distance of 600 mm must be maintained between the rafters. For this, a beam with a cross section of 50x200 mm is used. TO the last crown are fixed sliding supports, on which the rafters are installed. A layer of waterproofing is laid on top. Then the sheathing is attached. The distance between the elements will depend on the selected covering material. It is he who is covered last.

Log processing

If you are wondering how to treat a log house, you should know that this is initially done by the manufacturer. After completion of construction, you can proceed to the final processing of the wood; for this, it is coated with antiseptic substances and protective compounds.

Applying varnish is not a mandatory procedure, but it allows you to increase the life of the house by 5 years, maintaining its beautiful appearance. The outside of the log house can be processed using one of the existing methods:

manual;
mechanical.

The first processing option involves using fire retardant compounds and colors. Rollers and brushes are used for this. Using a spray bottle can speed up the work. But this approach does not allow processing the joints of the logs, so once again you have to process some areas of the surface with a brush. Using a sprayer reduces the time of antiseptic treatment. Such compositions usually have a liquid consistency.

Interior decoration of the house

To cover the premises of a log house, you can use lining. Its thickness is no more than 220 mm. The most the best option When installing this material, it is fastened to the sheathing. This is especially true for houses made of rounded logs. The sheathing is made of horizontal bars, which are located along the entire perimeter at a distance of 50 cm from each other.

Another advantage of the sheathing is the ability to hide pipes and wiring behind it. If profiled or laminated timber was used during the construction of the house, then the need to install sheathing can be eliminated, because the walls are already smooth. The inside of the log house can also be finished with plasterboard. This material is universal. Before this, profile sheathing is installed around the perimeter of the room. Next, the wiring is laid, if this has not already been done.

You can insulate the walls with glass wool, hide radiators and pipes, and also make various recesses, protrusions and niches for household appliances. Houses made of logs using plasterboard are finished inside using self-tapping screws. After this, the joints are covered with putty for leveling. However, some believe that a log frame is already a better finish.

Construction of a bathhouse

A log bathhouse 3x4 m can be built from traditional materials:

pine trees;
linden;
aspen.

Expensive varieties are used quite rarely. Construction can be carried out by connecting logs in the corners using one of several technologies. The first involves cutting in the paw. In this case, the logs do not protrude beyond the perimeter, and the corner part is protected from rain and snow.

The connection can be made into a bowl. In this case, part of the log will protrude from the outside, but the architecture of the building will not lose. If the building is exactly the same size as mentioned above, then the foundation set may consist of concrete blocks with dimensions of 20x20x40 mm. The logs are pre-sanded and their diameter is 22 cm. They will be used to make the ceiling, roof rafters, and floor.

For the gables you will need boards. Unedged boards should be prepared for the roof sheathing. Roofing felt is perfect for insulation. To seal the seams you will need moss. To build a log house with your own hands, you need to dig a trench, going 50 cm deep. Its bottom is covered with sand and compacted. Under the corner joints you need to place 4 block supports. They will be located at the intersection with the partition.

Every 2 m you need to lay supports from two blocks. They are held together cement mortar. Between the base of the log house and the blocks it is necessary to lay waterproofing in 2 layers. If the wall has a thickness of within 9 cm, then the price of construction with the above dimensions will cost 175,000 rubles.

With a wall thickness of 14 cm, you will have to pay 193,000 rubles for a bathhouse. The diameter of the beam will be 140 mm. The entire building will consist of three rooms, including:

restroom;
steam room;
washing room.

The rest room will be the largest, its dimensions are 2x3 m. The steam room will have a square shape with a side of 2 m. The remaining area will be occupied by the washing room. After assembling the log house, it can be caulked. To do this, all hanging material is carefully pushed between the logs. You need to use caulk for this.

In this condition, the building with the roof is left for a year to shrink. After a year, you can check the condition of the caulk and seal the resulting gaps with foam or tow. After assembling the frame and shrinking it, experts sometimes recommend repeating the caulking after a year of operation.

Working on the floor covering

The floor joists on the first floor cut into the embedded crown. They must be attached as firmly as possible. The mortgage crown must be well ventilated so that it does not rot. To do this, it is recommended to install the floor on the joists with a crown higher. At this stage, you can install the rafter system and other communications, slopes, interior doors, plumbing, baseboards, and also begin other finishing.

Conclusion

No matter how attractive permanent brick buildings may be, the traditional material in the form of wood has always remained relevant. This cannot be called an accident. After all, a pleasant atmosphere is maintained in a house or bathhouse made of timber. Such walls retain heat well and give the rooms a unique coziness. Therefore, owners often refuse external and internal decoration, saving huge amounts of money.

There is another, no less successful solution. It is expressed in living for some time in wooden house without interior decoration. When you get tired of such decoration of the premises, you can make repairs using modern materials. This finishing technology can also help in the case when, over time, the house settles even more, and gaps form between its logs. It will be possible to additionally insulate the walls by laying a layer of thermal insulation between external finishing and foundation.

Refusing the services of professionals in the field wooden house construction In terms of professional drawing up of drawings, be it a diagram of a log house or a residential building, an ignorant customer does not understand how this can turn against him. The lesser evil would be the construction stretching out for years due to constant rework. The worst is even scary to imagine.

Why might this happen? All due to the basic inability to read drawings and working diagrams, which are provided to the customer complete with the finished log house. Let’s take a closer look at what this is.

The essence of the working scheme

The drawing that the customer shows to the representative of the company producing the material is also similar to the drawing, like a fly to an elephant. Rather, it will be a sketch of your own dream - do this here, and do that there. The diagram of the log house, or, more precisely, the drawing has little in common with these scribbles. Why?

Firstly, a professional drawing indicates the scale of each element and the structure as a whole. Few owners know such features, hence the alterations of inconsistencies.
Secondly, the diagram of a log house is written in one language - numbers and proportions that are understandable even to foreigners. Considering that they have taken over the construction industry.
Further, the drawing contains clear measuring lines, each of which indicates the size of a particular corner of the house or bathhouse.
All dimensions on paper are indicated in millimeters. It is important! There have been cases of real decrease or increase, by slow-witted home-grown masters.
Special callouts on a drawing such as a diagram of a log house, or even for any other structure, place height marks relative to something - the foundation, soil or base level, if present.
As for the structure of the house itself, the paper clearly indicates the sections of wood and glass, as well as concrete or brick, if it is included in the construction.
The drawing must contain designations of interior decoration, as well as indications of the height of ceilings, window and door openings.
The construction scheme and plan cannot be in a single copy. Pediments and cuts must be drawn.
The rafter system receives special attention.

And the most important! The assembly diagram of a log house is a document confirmed construction organization and offices regulating permits for the installation of such a structure.

If it suddenly happens that you have to defend your case in court, then the design of the house and the drawings of its assembly will be the main evidence. Therefore, before refusing the services of specialists, you should think about whether this will end in tears.

Assembly diagram - contents

Now, having agreed that the drawing is important, the customer still will not be able to understand where to start dancing, that is, building. To do this, when purchasing a house kit, he is given a log house assembly diagram, which describes all stages of construction from the foundation to the rafter system.

So, let's look at them:

The schedule of planned work on the foundation includes the designation of the soil. This will be noted by the on-site specialist when concluding the contract. This is important, since refusing his services and installing your own version could result in the collapse of the building.

What follows is a plan for assembling the first, framed crown. Upon delivery of the material, numbered and marked on the drawing, it will be easy to understand which logs or beams are intended for this.

By agreement, larch can be used as the material for the first circle - it has earned universal approval as a material that practically does not interact with dampness. The diagram clearly indicates the sequence in which the elements are connected.

Now the construction of the walls itself. The assembly plan is convenient in that it resembles a construction set - all elements are carefully adjusted, this will not force the home carpenter to guess and put round things into square ones. The work is carried out quickly only thanks to it, the scheme.
The rafter system deserves a separate discussion. It is difficult both in drawing and in assembly, because it is responsible in the house. It is better to discuss it at the construction site by inviting the specialist who worked on it.

Of course, for a fee, but it's worth it. You can't hope for chance. The assembly manual will also offer recommended fasteners, since no screws or nails can act in this capacity.

Here are the main aspects of the content of diagrams and drawings. For some, this will be just a set of papers, but it’s worth understanding at least one of them in order to understand how to build it correctly own house. Besides, it's interesting.

Possible reading errors

Here are common mistakes in reading drawings of a finished log house or house kit:

Forgetting about the scale or misunderstanding its meaning. To be sure, you should measure the element to its natural size and note for yourself on paper what size it is indicated on the drawing.
It is better to do this in color, then the size will always be before your eyes. Of course, for this it is better to use a copy of the document, and the original should be stored in a separate folder.
To cut or build up something. Inconsistencies, of course, do occur, but they are so rare that they can hardly be called a system. It is better to contact the company’s specialists and tell them about the problem - they will respond promptly and either replace the beam or log, or point out the customer’s oversight.

One thing can be said about what will happen if you neglect to read drawings and diagrams - nothing good. In the end, it is in the interests of the customer to build a house for his family, without delaying installation and doing everything right.

If, after all, a home-grown master does not heed the advice described above, then it is stupid to blame the manufacturer later - they will simply wash their hands when it becomes clear that the customer does not need their services. Well, if he still can’t cope with the job and decides to leave everything to the specialists, then the work will become more expensive. Remember this.

Strength and thermal engineering wooden structure largely depend on the type of corner notch. The builders of old Slavic settlements did not keep the options for its manufacture a secret. Thanks to their oral master classes, proven folk technologies were preserved. Carpentry traditions were significantly enriched by foreign experience and the introduction of useful improvements. A significant amount of knowledge has been accumulated. Now in wood construction Various methods of cutting timber and logs are used, one of which will be used to build your own bathhouse.

Two “indigenous” families of cutters

The fundamental criterion for dividing cutting methods into two large classes is the presence or absence of bypasses. This is what folk craftsmen called the remains of logs, and then timber, extending at the ends beyond the contour of the wooden structure. Based on this indicator, in the technologies for constructing log houses, I distinguish two main cutting schemes:

“Into the bowl”, according to which the corners are cut out with the remainder. This is the most common method, which has a lot of variations of domestic and foreign origin. The downside of the nodal bowls is the significant consumption of material that is not cheap at all, but the plus is the excellent thermal insulation of the corner. And the buildings cut into a bowl look very impressive.
“In the paw” or simply “without a trace”. According to it, the outline of the building is built clearly according to the plan. With the same material consumption as the previous technology, the internal dimensions of the structure are larger. Corners cut into paws require obligatory lining, otherwise they will blow out and get wet. Log houses built without bypasses can be covered with clapboard, block house, plastered, faced with brick or sandwich panels. Unlike options with bowls, all finishing directions are applicable here, and sometimes even recommended.

One of the fundamental rules is that all corner connections must be made according to a single pattern. Since the cutting of timber and log-bearing walls was carried out according to the “bowl” scheme, then the partitions will need to be cut in exactly the same way. Let us immediately note that for corner connections everything is applicable in log crowns existing methods. But a bathhouse made of timber is cut mainly into the claw, but occasionally a number of bowl-shaped types are also used.

Both classes of corner notches have become overgrown with an impressive number of daughter subtypes, differing in manufacturing complexity and thermal properties. Choice the best way define:

performer experience;
climatic specificity of the area;
the period preferred for taking bath procedures.

To assemble the crowns of a country bathhouse, which is used only in the summer, the simplest cutting methods are suitable. Especially if the owner is going to build a bathhouse on summer cottage on one's own. The customer of a team of craftsmen who needs a warm building for year-round use should not deny himself the choice of a complex technological scheme. Information about the differences and features of cuttings will help both the independent contractor and the prudent employer of builders, who wants to spend money well, to make a reasonable choice.

Options for cutting with residue

The most accessible method for making a corner unit for a novice carpenter is cutting into a bowl, i.e. with the rest of the log at the end. In the “cup” class there are simple and super complex technologies. In wooden construction, it is important to understand: what is easier to cut will heat and last less. However, without carpentry skills and knowledge of this art, it is better not to undertake the manufacture of complex structural recesses.

Algorithm for making a simple bowl

To cut into a simple cup, two notches in the shape of semi-cylinders and a longitudinal inter-crown groove, called a lunar groove, are selected on the sides of the log. All recesses in the log are made from above, which is very convenient for the master, but not good for the walls. Moisture easily seeps into the holes facing the sky and dust gets in through the joints, which have lost their density due to shrinkage. Therefore, simple bowls need constant updating of the caulk.

The owner of rounded material does not need to suffer with preliminary preparation. Calibrated logs have a uniform size and often have mounting grooves already selected. Cylinder manufacturers can even make corner recesses if they receive an order and a clear understanding project documentation. The buyer of sawn timber will have to carry out processing: debark, dry, select a longitudinal moon-shaped furrow for reliable joining of the crowns, and then begin cutting into a bowl.

Sequence of work for making a simple bowl:

We will place the debarked log in its appropriate place in the log house for marking.
If the longitudinal inter-crown groove has not yet been made, on the thin end of the lower log, in the upper part of which the notches are to be made, draw a line equal to the width of the future groove.
Let's spread the legs factory or homemade trait the width of the marked installation groove.
Let's place a line with the legs to the humps of the log laid in the log house and the upper fellow being tried on it, then with sharp legs we will scratch the lines on the lower log with the exact profile of the upper element, “edging” the log on all sides.
Having completed marking the groove, we spread the legs of the line to a distance equal to half the average radius of the log laid on top.
Let us again attach the legs of the drawing carpentry tool to the one being tried on and to the lower log lying across it in order to outline the semi-cylinders of future corner notches.
Let's remove the top element of the frame being tried on, and make cuts on the lower log that do not reach the depth of the drawn recesses of 7-10mm.
We use an ax to select the marked recesses and finish the surface with sherhebel.

The method for making a corner joint, based on the technique of cutting a log house into a bowl with a tenon, is presented in the video:

There is not much difference in the sequence of actions. You can cut the groove first, then the corner notches, or in the reverse order. The main thing is that all three structural components are precisely hewn. You will have to puff anyway: you will need to try on and cut off the excess if the top log does not “fit” into the frame. Therefore, there is no need to rush with the final selection to the scratched lines. It is advisable to gradually refine the finishing process so that too large samples do not spoil the material. In the old days, for the first time, the clean cut mounting recesses were smeared with tar and the upper element was laid on it. The muddy marks indicated where further trimming needed to be done.

Child bowl variants

Cutting a log into a bowl attracts inexperienced performers due to its simplicity and relatively low labor costs. However, without additional locking elements, it does not hold heat well. This is quite acceptable for the construction of a summer bathhouse. To build a warmer building, it is better to supplement the lock assembly with a side section. The cutting method will become more complicated, but heating technology will improve.

The list of closest “relatives” of the technology of cutting into a bowl includes:

Cutting in the ohlupen (aka in the ohlupen), which is a mirror image of the bowl. This method also called Siberian felling. It differs in that the corner locks and moon groove are simply turned down. The lower orientation of the recesses prevents the penetration of moisture and dust into the joints, so the insulation does not deteriorate and the log house does not get wet.
Bowl with ledge. It appeared as a result of popular improvement of the methods of okhlop and oblo, according to which cuttings are made either from above or from below the log. Cutting a bowl with a protrusion allows you to place a longitudinal groove at the bottom and corner grooves at the top, or do the opposite. Because a log with an inter-crown groove will need to be placed in the bowl; the configuration of the notch cannot still be semi-cylindrical. Therefore, a rounded protrusion appeared in the bowl, repeating the radius of the longitudinal mounting groove.
Cutting in the okhryap. It consists in the formation of two equivalent rectangular cuttings on the upper and lower sides. The option is simpler than simple, but suitable only for the construction of outbuildings.
A blow with a cut. In order to optimize the strength and thermal insulation of the corner, a cut is left in the bowl - this is an unselected quarter in the bowl with inside corner. For docking, you will also need a counter notch in the mating log.
Cutting into a fat tail. It differs from a simple bowl by the presence of an additional spike in the recess, which increases the strength of the corner unit. The thorn is called fat tail or darkness. He gave the name to the method and improved the thermal properties log wall. You can orient the cut into the fat tail in both traditional directions. The bowl is initially cut to half its height, then a tenon is cut out. They transfer the dimensions of the formed tenon to the mating log without any special tricks: they roll it onto the frame and mark with notches where the counter groove needs to be cut.

Two methods of cutting a log house into a hook are considered to be quite demanding in relation to the skill and experience of the performer. The first of them predetermines the cutting of half of the bowl, and the remaining, uncut half must clearly fit into the semicircular cutting of the mating log. The second technology resembles a bowl with a notch, but the logs are hewn to one edge, and the hewn side is turned inside the building. When cutting with a hook, the maximum power of the log is maintained, resulting in warm and reliable corners.

This is how cutting with a simple hook is done:

Overseas cutting technologies with residue

Fundamentally, the Canadian and Swedish logging schemes are similar to the Siberian “in the cold” technique. Only the corner grooves and recesses for them do not have a round cross-section, but a trapezoidal configuration. This is a significant plus, because... When shrinking, Slavic bowls expand, which is why they require periodic caulking. The Canadian and Swedish notch, after shrinking, fits tightly onto the log hewn under it. There are no gaps left at all, and over the years the joint also spontaneously compacts.

Their execution techniques are different. The external ones can be distinguished by the partially hewn “Canadian” logs in the castle area and the nice “Swedish” crossovers sharpened into six edges. U Canadian technology there is a good simplified follower - cutting into the saddle.

An extremely demanding aspect of all cutting schemes with a remainder is precisely the length of the part of the log protruding beyond the contour of the building. The bypass cannot be made too short, otherwise it will break off. So that the desire to save does not lead to emergency condition log house, GOST number 30974-2002 clearly regulates the maximum distances: from the end of the log to the center of the cut-in bowl there must be at least 1.4 times the diameter of the log being processed.

Video demonstration of Norwegian cutting:

Methods for cutting without residue

There are significantly fewer options for chopping log cabins into the claw than methods with a bowl. The reason for their appearance was not economic considerations, but the desire to convert a wooden tower into a luxurious palace by finishing it. The corners cut into the paw are significantly colder. The capillaries at the ends are open, so outside It is strongly recommended to sew up corner joints in the paw with at least boards.

For the construction of a log house using the “paw-on” technique, a timber carriage is suitable - a log cut into two vertical edges on opposite sides. Rounding and ordinary round timber with vertical left and right edges – “blocks” – are also suitable. Length of the dummy, i.e. the length of the side hem is equal to the largest diameter of the material used. The width of the block, i.e. the distance between the notches is equal to 2/3 or 3/4 of the diameter of the top of the thinnest log in the purchased batch. It is this that needs to be identified first and “duped” as a standard for other logs, so that during the work it is not discovered that part of the material does not fit the size of the planned paw. By the way, logs can be hewn out on all the logs at once, and then start making paws of the chosen type.

General instructions for making paws

The straight paw is the most simple circuit in the “paw” class, so you can try to make it yourself. All the lines of the upcoming hew are strictly vertical and horizontal. To make the corner less blown, the paw can be supplemented with an undercut by cutting out this structural addition from the inside of the corner. The most reliable connection in the class is considered to be an oblique paw, because inclined planes They do not allow the elements of the log house to turn out and carefully retain heat.

All variations are chopped in the same sequence:

The block prepared for processing is again cut off from above and below. The depth of the notches should be equal to the width of the block. As a result, we get a parallelogram with one imaginary side and a square section turned towards us;
We draw the end of the parallelogram into 8 equal horizontal parts.
According to the selected type of paw and the table dimensions, mark and connect the points on the drawn plane;
Mark the lines of future cuts with the required slopes of the planes and undercuts, if it is decided that they should be;
Carefully remove the excess located behind the markings and use the first finished paw to make a template for transferring the dimensions to the next logs.

There is no need to independently calculate the dimensions of the oblique paws; they are available in the tables. Masters cut them slowly and meticulously. The lunar groove is scratched out along the logs laid in the log house, spreading the legs of the feature by the amount of the identified gap.

Corner notches in timber

Forming a round joint in a beam is difficult, and it is not necessary, because special methods have been developed for joining timber crowns. Based on the paws, identical variants with very similar names were created: okhryap, half-tree, fat tail.

However, timber has its own specific methods and types of corner joints using inserted or sawn tenons in the material. According to the tradition of wooden architecture, the walls are “pierced” with dowels - vertical wooden nails 25-30 cm in diameter and a height equal to 0.8 of the height of the log house. It should be remembered that between the elements of any connection in paving stones and log house a vertical gap must be left to compensate for standard shrinkage following construction. In bowls and claws the maximum gap is 0.5 cm, in the mounting longitudinal grooves 1.0 cm.

We have described the common ones, but not all of them. existing schemes vrubov. The difference in the methods of their implementation and in heating engineering will tell you which is better to choose. Good luck!

Wood being environmentally friendly pure material, not only effectively retains heat, but also gives the air in the room a special aroma.

To build a wooden one, you must first prepare the timber.

Stage 1. Preparation of round timber

Attention! To determine the quality of logs (you can refuse low-grade sawlogs at any time), you need to know about ideal conditions blanks, which we will consider below.

Round timber must be harvested at sub-zero temperature, that is, in winter. It is at this time that the amount of moisture in the wood is minimized, therefore, during drying the material will deform and crack less.

In order to ensure the durability of the log house, certain sections of logs (the so-called butt logs) are used during construction. These sections start from the rhizome and end at the crown. Such butt logs are denser (which compares favorably with the tops) and there are practically no knots in them. Selection criteria also include round form and the degree of curvature of the trunk. In both cases, a defect is an error exceeding 1 cm per linear meter.

Attention! If the length is, for example, 5 m, and the error exceeds 5 cm, then the log can be safely rejected.

The same applies to diameter. For example, the diameter of the base of the log is 35 cm, while the top is 25 cm or less. Such round timber is categorically not recommended for use in construction.

Finally, pay attention to the type of wood. Ideally for a bath they should be used conifers trees (spruce, larch, etc.). Larch is characterized by resistance to moisture, although in extreme cases you can resort to the “pine-spruce” combination, in which the first few crowns are erected from pine. And if only spruce is used in construction, then the material must be treated several times with an antiseptic.

Perform further actions in accordance with the previously drawn up project. You can make one yourself, find it on the Internet, or order it from specialists. It is with the help of this document that you can calculate the required amount of consumables, determine the area and shape of the base.

Stage 2. Timber processing

Step 1. After it was delivered to you consumables(or you cut it down and delivered it yourself), it needs 25-30 days to rest.

Step 3. Then start processing. First, peel the bark from the logs (do this carefully so that they do not crack), leaving a little of it on the sides - about a 15-centimeter strip on each side.

Step 4. After processing, place the logs in storage approximately 25 cm from the surface of the ground. You can stack it however you like - in stacks, packs, etc., the main thing is that the distance between the logs is 7-10 cm.

Video - Preparing logs

Stage 3. Construction of the foundation

Let’s immediately make a reservation that massive monolithic ones can be abandoned due to their low weight future design. In order to save money, you can resort to one of two possible lightweight designs, namely:

strip foundation;
columnar.

Let's consider each of the options.

To build such a foundation around the entire perimeter, as well as under future walls, dig a trench 40 cm wide and 50 cm deep, lay a “cushion” of sand and gravel at the bottom. Next, lay the reinforcement, build formwork 50 cm high and pour concrete mortar. The resulting height will be approximately 1 m.

Attention! A more specific height depends on the depth of soil freezing in a particular region.

Video - Pouring the foundation

Place strips of sand and crushed stone inside the perimeter. In the future, the strips could be filled with concrete or built on them wooden floor. The choice of one option or another depends on personal preferences and financial capabilities.

Columnar foundation

If necessary, it will be necessary to erect supports. There are two possible options:

brick;
from asbestos pipes.

Place supports at the corners of the perimeter, as well as under all walls in 1.5 m increments. Pre-lay a concrete “cushion” under each support. Fix several reinforcement rods in each support so that the latter protrude above the surface by at least 30 cm.

Build formwork 40 cm high, lay reinforcement in it and tie it to rods protruding from the supports. Fill with concrete mortar. After four to five weeks, when the concrete is completely dry, you can begin further work.

Stage 4. Waterproofing the base

Treat the surface of the foundation with molten and lay a layer of roofing material on top. After the bitumen has completely dried, repeat the procedure. As a result, you will have a reliable two-layer.

Stage 5. Preparing tools

To work you will need the following equipment:

The last instrument – the “line” – will be given Special attention. For manufacturing you will need steel wire with sharpened ends. Bend the wire in half so that it takes the shape of a compass; you can additionally secure the handle. This tool will be needed when marking logs.

Stage 6. Construction of a log bathhouse

There are several assembly technologies:

The first option - Russian felling - is the easiest to perform; even an inexperienced carpenter can handle it. Therefore, we will consider this technology.

Step 1. The construction of the log house should be carried out in stages and begin with the frame crown (in other words, from the first). Logs that will serve decorative crown, push it onto the edge for the tightest fit to the foundation.

Step 2. Lay the first pair of logs on top of the waterproofing layer. Place the next pair at an angle of 90ᵒ relative to the first and connect everything into a “cup”.

Attention! "Cup" is the most simple option connections during the construction of log buildings. It is done quite simply: the boundaries of the future “cup” are measured at the bottom of the log, then a recess is marked using a “line”. After checking the dimensions again, the recess is carefully cut out with an ax.

You can use a chainsaw - this will save a lot of time. Although final finishing“cups” will still have to be made with an ax.

Attention! In the starting crown, the “cups” will not be deep, as a result of which the logs will not come into contact with the base. Therefore, place a lining in the gap that appears - a small piece of board of the required thickness, treated with an antiseptic and covered with insulation.

Step 3. Next, lay the second crown using the thickest logs possible. This is explained by the fact that in the future you will cut sex joists into them. To ensure a tight fit, make a longitudinal groove in the top log, which would be equal to a third of the diameter of the previous log. To draw the boundaries of the groove, place the upper log on the lower one and mark using the “line”.

Attention! The longitudinal groove can be semicircular or triangular. If you have a chainsaw available, you can cut a triangular groove in two to three minutes. But remember: logs with such a groove will not fit tightly, which will negatively affect the thermal insulation properties of the walls.

It's obvious that the best option is a semicircular groove. Do it with a chainsaw and use a chisel to remove any residue.

Step 4. Insulate the joints of the logs, preferably using flax-jute fabric. Place one piece of fabric on the lower crown, and seal the longitudinal groove with the second (especially if the latter has a triangular shape).

Step 5. Connect the crowns together. Here you can use:

square dowels;
round dowels made of wood.

The second method is preferable, because dowels can be purchased ready-made and holes can be made using an electric drill.

Make holes in increments of 1-1.5 m, parallel stitching the top pair of crowns completely and not completely the third one (from the bottom). To avoid distortion, after shrinkage is completed, recess the dowels into the upper crown by at least 6-7 cm.

Step 6. Having raised the walls to the desired height, lay them on top ceiling beams and rafters. If damp wood was used, then lay slate sheets instead of rafters and wait until the structure shrinks. Usually, it is enough to overwinter once, but ideally, shrinkage should last a year and a half.

In the spring, when the shrinkage is complete, start caulking.

Video - Roof made of aspen shingles

Stage 7. Doors and window openings

We specifically started talking about openings after construction was completed, since there are two options for their arrangement.

Stage 8. Caulking logs

After shrinkage is completed, the log house is caulked. To do this, prepare the following equipment:

hammer;
caulk (made of wood or metal).

Attention! If you sealed the inter-crown space with tow or moss, you can skip this step, since you most likely will not need caulk. But if you find even the slightest cracks, then it is still better to carry out the procedure.

Proceed to work only after the insulation has completely dried. First, twist the material (tow or moss) into a rope, then hammer it between the crowns with a hammer and caulk.

You can use tape jute - in this case, the material is simply fixed with nails or a mounting stapler.

Video – Caulk of a log house

Stage 9. Roof

As soon as the tree shrinks, you can begin construction. If you do this earlier, the roof will simply collapse.

Step 1. Lay on wall trim wooden beams(we already talked about this).

Step 2. Fix the beams and attach the rafter legs to them in 1 m increments. In the ridge part, cut the rafters at the appropriate angle for the connection.

Step 3. Nail to rafter legs solid plank flooring (if you plan to use rolled roofing material) or make a sheathing (if you use slate, tiles, etc.).

Step 4: Install roof covering according to the instructions for the specific material.

Step 5. Cover the ridge with galvanized sheet steel to protect it from aggressive environmental influences.

Step 6. Cover the roof gables with siding or clapboard.

An example of a log house with a shingle roof

Sometimes during assembly it becomes necessary to join logs. In this case, do not allow the joints to be located on top of each other. Moreover, in lower crown connections are not allowed.
When laying the log frame on ready foundation You can collect the logs even before drying by placing a compactor between them.
It is advisable to install windows after shrinkage, because otherwise they may warp.

Now you know how to buildDIY log house.

Wooden materials retain heat well, are environmentally friendly, and also have an attractive appearance. You can prepare a log house with your own hands.

Materials and tools for performing work

To prepare a log house, you need to take the following tools:

The axe, it should not be too heavy.
Chisel.
Tape measure, level and marker.
Plumb and bracket.
Hacksaw, shovel.
Rope and a marking tool in the form of a compass.
Chainsaw.

Let's look at what different expressions mean in a carpenter's language:

A log house is a basic building without a roof or floor; its height is determined by the number of crowns.
The crown is the place in the log house that has a square or rectangular shape. In the corner part they are fastened with locks. The crown comes in three types and is placed according to its name:

window sill type;
window type;
above-window type;

The frame crown is the first element of the frame, with the help of which bottom harness protected from rotting.
The bottom frame is the second element of the frame; it is considered the main part where the logs are placed.
The joists support the floor and secure the frame at the bottom.
The crown of the closing type is the first element above the window.
The frame in the upper part serves as a support for the roof; it includes rafters and supports.
The butt is a section of the trunk that is located at the bottom of the tree. And on the opposite side there is a peak.

Logs can be processed underneath to make the work being done safer. The construction of a log house takes place in three stages: the main part is completed, and then the middle and upper. Along the entire length, the log may have different circumferences, so you need to change the top and butt. If you make an edging, then the crowns will connect well and not form large cracks. The deck in the extreme part is trimmed on both sides to create a flat surface.

Blank material for log house

First, timber is harvested, having previously calculated the required number and size of logs; these indicators depend on the width, height and length of the building. Therefore, before starting this work, it is necessary to make a drawing of the building with clear dimensions and calculate the amount of material. Preparation of a log house depends on the layout, type of fastening of logs, and their processing.

When completing a project, they note what shape the building will be, that is, it can be standard, which consists of four walls. Or maybe have unusual look, and include a larger number of load-bearing elements.

Logs are fastened in two ways: in a “bowl” and in a “paw”; these types of groove construction differ. With the first option, strong wind does not affect the corner parts of the building, but more material is wasted when bandaging.

With the second option, less material will be needed, but the corner parts will be exposed to strong winds, and it will also be more difficult to make the grooves.

The building can be made of cylindrical and profiled logs. In the first case, the log is processed to such an extent until it takes the shape of a cylinder; for this purpose, special machines. This material has a number of advantages:

The profiled timber has a rectangular or square shape when cut, and its processing is also carried out using a machine. At the final stage, the side parts of the log will be flat, and there will be special grooves for fastening at the top and bottom. This material also has its advantages:

Thanks to the grooves, the building will be more stable, and the work will be completed faster compared to the first option.
Thanks to flat surface side joints, water from precipitation does not penetrate into horizontal seams, and the material does not rot.
After time, the logs do not move, since cuts are made during manufacturing. This material has minimal shrinkage.
A profiled log is lightweight and therefore does not require the construction of an expensive and massive foundation.

For the manufacture of logs they use coniferous species tree. After harvesting the logs, the bark is removed and dried.

Initial work

According to the drawing, markings are made on the territory, stakes are installed and the rope is pulled. Then the foundation is made in the form of linings, with dimensions of 1 meter in length and 1/3 meter in circumference. They are laid near the corner part of the proposed building using a level, and the load will be uniform.

Then they build an edging, choose where it will be located, and lay it with this part up, fixing the log with brackets. Using a plumb line, draw lines vertically; they will be the outermost parts of the edge. They stretch the rope along the edges of the log, make cuts, and cut off the material until the edge is completely obtained. The same work is carried out on the opposite part of the log.

Laying the log house

After the foundation is poured, it must be left to dry completely.

Lay on the completed foundation waterproofing material, you can use roofing felt. A board with a thickness of 5 centimeters is installed on top, on which the crown will be located. To keep the building warm, tow is laid on top.

Then the initial crown is laid, in which the logs should have a larger circumference compared to the rest of the material. Before starting this work, notches of about 15 centimeters along the entire length are made on the log. In this case, the material will adhere tightly to the board.

After this, the remaining crowns are laid until required height. Tow is placed between the elements of the crown, the logs are tied in the corner part, and spikes are also used for a tight connection; they are placed at a distance of up to 1 meter. In this case, the building will have good stability.

How to install the first element of a window sill type crown

First, mark the doorway, then install the logs using a dowel. Using plumb lines, the vertical position of the corner parts is checked, and the final window sill beam is installed on two dowels.

Then the crowns of the window element are laid, keeping the opening height to 130 centimeters. After this, the strapping is performed in the upper part.

After this, the elements for the rafters are prepared, for this purpose the logs are cut off, and about two edges are made on each of them. The elements are cut into the deck, and recesses for the rafter legs are made with a chisel.

When making rafters, there should not be many small knots in the log. Near the base of the rafters, a tenon is made by sawing, and paired installation is carried out.

How to install openings for doors and windows?

Openings can be made in two ways: after the work is completed, and during construction.

In the first option, the installation of openings is carried out after completion of all work; for this, gaps are made in the crowns at the intended location. After installation is completed, these openings are cut out using a chainsaw.

In the second option, the openings are made during the process of laying logs; special bars and grooves are used for this; this method takes a lot of time and money.

Metal materials cannot be used as casing, as heat will escape through them. To install the socket on the end parts of the logs, a vertical tenon 50*50 is made on each side. They install a pigtail on it, with it reverse side the groove is located.

Roof construction

First, the beams are laid on the walls.

The beams are secured and the rafter legs are installed at a distance of 1 meter. A corner cut is made near the ridge for a tight connection.

Boards are nailed to the feet of the rafters or lathing is made.

Then lay the main roof covering according to the instructions for the selected material.

The ridge is covered with galvanization to protect it from strong winds and precipitation.

After completing all the work, I proceed to interior decoration, namely the construction of floors.

Types of pillars and their installation

The pillars are:

corner;
window;
intermediate;
door

They are arranged according to their names, the thickest elements are the corner ones, the thin ones are the intermediate ones.

Corner posts are placed in a pocket, the depth of which is up to 7 centimeters. The remaining pillars are installed at a depth of about 3 centimeters. Up to three edges are made on the log house; after shrinkage occurs, they begin laying the remaining pillars.

At the end, rafters are installed; for this purpose, walkways, jibs and nails are used as fastenings. The elements are laid on the walkways, the upper part is fastened with nails. Spikes rafter elements placed in pockets, secured with jibs, and legs secured with staples.

After all work is completed, the building is left for 1 year to shrink. To prevent the doors and windows from skewing, and to prevent the material from deforming, it is necessary to make gaps that disappear over time. While shrinkage occurs, you can construct the floor or rafters for the roof.

After shrinkage occurs, tow fills all the resulting gaps.

Mandatory rules

When constructing log buildings, the following rules must be followed:

Logs are harvested in winter period because the material at this time is more resistant to precipitation and not prone to rotting. The tree can be used for preparations by dropping iodine on it; if it turns blue, then start working.
To increase service life and prevent rotting of the material under the influence of precipitation, it is necessary to treat the logs with an antiseptic.
Before starting the main work, the crowns are laid out on the surface and signed, and then they are installed sequentially.
All seams and gaps must be covered with tow, this will help retain heat.
When tying “in the paw”, the connection of the corner parts is sheathed with boards for additional fixation.
You also need to take into account that after shrinkage, the height of the building can decrease by up to 10%, so you need to immediately calculate this indicator.
To make the roof stable, the rafters are fixed with wire to the 3rd or 4th crown.
To prevent cracks from appearing in the log, it is necessary to make cuts towards the center. If they do arise, then the recesses are filled with tow.
When filling gaps, the tow must be hidden from getting wet, otherwise moisture will fall on the base material, which will lead to rotting.
Filling the gaps is done in the absence of rain to protect the material from getting wet.
To ensure that the logs do not move and are securely installed, they are secured with dowels located in the recesses, which are made in the center of the material.
When laying the initial crown, a gap may form between it and the foundation, which must be hidden with halves of logs.

In order to build from a log house, it is necessary to select the desired processing of the log, prepare the material, build a foundation, put waterproofing material and boards on it, and lay the initial crown of the log house on them. Then they begin to build the remaining crowns to the required height, after that they make openings for doors and windows, make floors, and leave the building to shrink, after which the roof can be made. To prevent deformation of the material and openings, it is necessary to leave compensation gaps that are filled with tow.

If the work is done correctly, the building will be warm and durable.