For rural residents and owners country houses you have to be able to do things that many city dwellers don’t even know about: growing potatoes, plucking a chicken, lighting a stove, milking a cow. On the other hand, they don’t need this - the main thing in the city is to make good money, and everything you need can be bought in a store or ordered a service from numerous offices. However, many people dream of buying a house outside the city and getting out of the metropolis at least for the weekend. And then they have to learn professions that are almost unclaimed in an urban environment, for example, making a barn door. By the way, you will learn how to make a wooden door yourself from this article.
So, there are a lot of options for making new door: when the old one rotted or rusted, when they built some kind of door in, into a room, on. In our case, a small shed was built for household equipment, which also needed a door.
The cost of manufacturing a new one is several times less than the purchased one, and besides, doors are sold in stores certain sizes, under which the openings need to be adjusted, which is not very convenient. It’s easier to have the one you need and make a door leaf for it yourself.
They begin to build the door by measuring the perimeter of the opening. Our dimensions are 190 by 80 cm. Convenient in both height and width. Now you need to select boards of arbitrary width, and no less in length doorway. The number of tesins does not matter, the main thing is that when folded together they are wider than 80 cm. The thickness of the tesins is 2.5 cm. Let's cut them circular saw, making the length 190 cm.
Front part door leaf we decided to upholster it with clapboard. Therefore, we plan the side of the boards that will look inside the barn with a plane.
Let's connect the strips together and measure the width of the canvas. Next, so that the gaps do not diverge, we will tighten them with a wooden plank, screwing it to the first one and last board. Let's make marks with a pencil and cut the blade with a circular saw to a width of 79.5 cm, 5 mm less than the opening. It is necessary to create a gap so that the canvas does not touch the jamb. We will also make the length 189.5 cm.
Let's unscrew the bar and determine which side the door will open from - right or left. This is done in order to understand which board the lock should be installed in. In our case, it will be a mortise device with handles and a latch. When making doors from boards, I always immediately cut out a place for a lock in the outermost board, and not later, in assembled door. It's much easier, faster and more convenient.
First, we mark the gap by circling the lock body with a pencil. Then feather drill We will drill a recess in it of a suitable size.
It is difficult to make a recess for a lock in boards 25 mm thick without damaging the walls. But in the future, when finishing the canvas with clapboard, all the holes will be closed. It is better to work out a place for a lock with a narrow, well-sharpened chisel. Need to drill right away through holes to attach the lock handles and cut out a place for the key. Insert the lock into the recess and check its operation with the key.
Next you can assemble the door leaf. Let's connect the boards together and align them.
Let's cut a piece of lining to the width of the canvas and use short nails with narrow heads to nail it to the planks. We cut the lining of the same size, insert it into the previous one and nail it.
Plank by plank, we cover the entire door. After the paneling is nailed, take a grinder and sand the edges of the door around the perimeter, removing any unevenness and roughness. Let's turn the door upside down and carefully sand its inside. Don't forget to drill holes for the key and handles of the lock in the place where they were covered with clapboard.
Gaps between boards with inside can be decorated with a 25 mm wide layout. It can be nailed around the perimeter, thereby closing the holes during the locking process.
We paint the door on both sides with varnish with the addition of natural wax. This best composition paints for doors installed outdoors and exposed to natural precipitation. The wax prevents the absorption of moisture and the door does not swell during humid weather.
After the varnish has dried, you can install the hinges. In our case, arrow loops are used, in old style. We will place them on the door leaf, make marks, drill through holes and secure them with furniture bolts with semicircular heads. We will install larger washers on the inside so that the nuts do not crush the wood and tighten the hinges with the nuts using a wrench.
Next we move on to the opening in the barn. We screw a wooden strip 5 mm high onto the threshold. This is done so that during installation of the hinge the door rests on this bar. When, after screwing the hinges, we remove it, the door leaf will sag a little, but still, when opening and closing, it will not touch the threshold.
At this moment, it is necessary to install the canvas in the opening and wedge it, for example, with an ax, so that it does not move.
Next we straighten the second part of the loops, make markings and drill 3 holes for each loop. We remove the ax, take the bolts and tighten them with nuts. The barn door is installed.
Next, we secure it and install the handles. On door jamb First we mark it, then we select a recess for the latch and then we screw the locking plate. We check the operation of the lock with a key.
Now, if you close the door, it will flow into the barn because there is nothing holding it. To eliminate this problem, we will nail along the perimeter of the opening wooden planks 1.5 cm high. They act as a stop and protect the shed from snow entering the gap between the door and the jamb. There should be a small gap. Doors installed outdoors may slightly increase or decrease in size depending on the weather. Varnish with the addition of wax significantly reduces this probability, but still, you need to play it safe and leave gaps of 5 mm.
That's all, making and installing the door yourself is finished. Such canvases, made from pine boards, will serve long years. From time to time they need to be tinted and the hinges lubricated, no more maintenance is required.
VIDEO
Doors are made from boards furniture panels or beams according to previously prepared drawings. To understand what and how wooden doors are made of, let’s get acquainted with their varieties.
Types of doors by design
A solid wood box has the following advantages:
In the same time wooden canvas has the following features:
- unprocessed raw materials quickly absorb moisture;
- presence of cracks and knots;
- flammability.
To reduce absorption, the board is dried, treated with hot steam and impregnations.
Massive doors
Before making wooden doors, it is recommended to determine the features production process. The dacha can be protected from robbers by a massive canvas, for the manufacture of which thick tongue-and-groove or planed boards are used. The resulting structure is strengthened with horizontal or inclined jumpers.
To make a massive door, dense wood is used To make a massive entrance door, cedar, larch or oak are used. This type of wood is characterized by a dense structure and textured pattern.
If the project summer cottage includes a bathhouse, then linden and pine are used to arrange the opening. The bathhouse must be used after treating the wood with an antiseptic.
Paneled doors
To make paneled fabric, boards and beams obtained by gluing lamellas are used. Then the workpiece is covered with veneer. Before constructing the canvas, a drawing is prepared. It indicates the configuration of the panels. It can be the same or different. Instead of wooden elements glass can be used.
Paneled doors are most often installed indoors To equip the vertical and transverse elements, you will need to glue the timber. It is used to make fabric batten appropriate thickness. For fixation individual elements spikes are used.
Door assembly diagram If a panel is used to make the canvas, you need to consider:
- The reliability of the product is directly affected by the number of cross-sections;
- a homemade box is formed from timber, and a lath or plastic is used to make a panel;
- glazing bead is used to fix panels.
Since the paneled door is thin, it is considered the best option to arrange an interior doorway.
Panel doors
The panel box is made of fiberboard, veneer or laminate. The frame is assembled from boards. Fiberboard, MDF or chipboard sheets are used as a shield.
Panel door design The canvases under consideration are classified into the following types:
- solid - filled with beams fastened together;
- hollow – made from side and cross beams. Lining is used for cladding;
- small-hollow - have different fillings.
To create a high-quality canvas yourself, the frame is first covered with plywood. The material is laid in 2 layers. Size of 1 layer – 24 mm. This technology prevents deformation of the coating.
Tools for work
Tools you will need:
- to create grooves and holes, you will need a router;
- hacksaw;
- to sand the ends of the doors, you will need a plane;
- chisels;
- hammer;
- screwdriver
Standard set tools for making a door To assemble the doors you will need the following materials:
- tongue and groove boards;
- self-tapping screws;
- glue.
The purchased wood is additionally dried. The boards are laid so that they do not touch each other.
Selection of lumber
Before assembling the canvas, an individual plan for the upcoming work is drawn up. Special attention paid to the choice of boards. The following criteria are taken into account:
- financial opportunities;
- acquisition of “industrial wood”;
- residual humidity – 15%;
- checking the evenness of the material;
- board thickness – 25-50 mm;
- the array is polished.
Step-by-step manufacturing instructions
Any step-by-step plan door manufacturing involves assembling the shield. If it is planned to install the linen in the bath, then easy assembly shield To fix the boards, transverse and longitudinal elements are used. A warm box for the home is made taking into account aesthetics. Assembled shield polished.
Making a door from solid wood
IN step by step plan canvas assembly included right choice consumables. To make a shield, you will need tongue and groove boards more than 25 mm thick. Then consumables sawn into pieces.
The tongue and groove boards must be smooth and without grooves on front sides When assembling the shield, it is recommended to take into account the direction of the annual rings. To connect tongue and groove boards, a tongue-and-groove lock and wood glue are used. If the consumable material is non-grooved boards, then they are assembled using glue.
Work is done on the surface large area. The assembled coating is pressed with clamps. If the shield is dry, it is processed with a milling cutter. To be good sound insulation, it is recommended to assemble a shield from several layers of boards. The resulting structure is clamped with clamps.
Traditional methods tying boards in solid wood doors For tying, crossbars are used, installed at the top, middle and bottom of the covering. Markings for grooves are made on the canvas. The recesses made should be ½ the thickness of the consumable material.
Assembly diagram Holes are cut using a router. More difficult to cut grooves manually. For this you will need a chisel. A rubber hammer is used to insert the cross member. If you plan to apply a drawing to the resulting shield, first trace its outline using a pencil according to the template. A cutter is used for cutting.
The cutouts are milled according to a previously drawn pencil drawing. Then the canvas is painted with pre-treatment with an antiseptic. Markings are made on the canvas and the box for installing hinges. The markings for the handle and lock are done in the same way. Final stage– canopy of the canvas into the opening.
Treatment with antiseptic and varnish
Manufacturing of a panel door
The instructions for making a shield sheet allow you to use finely filled boards. Experts distinguish 3 methods for assembling such a design:
- preliminary assembly of the frame with subsequent filling of its internal space. Using this technology, you can create a solid or finely filled shield;
- separate production of the shield with its subsequent fixation into the frame. The last stage is covering with finishing material;
- The manufactured shield is mounted in a frame and lined.
To assemble the canvas using the first method, primary tying is carried out. It will determine the size of the future door. The structure uses timber with a cross section of 30×120 mm. Consumables are cut to fit the dimensions of the future structure.
The next step is choosing the type of connection in the corners. Experts advise using the “half-tree” method. Accurate marking of future grooves - important stage shield assembly.
Connection diagram of frame elements All grooves are coated with glue. The connection of the timber is carried out on a flat but large area. If the glue has dried, the connections are fixed with dowels. To do this, make through holes with a diameter of 8-10 mm.
Plywood or fiberboard is used to cover the frame. The markings are made and the frame is removed. The frame returns to its original place. She needs to be pressed to facing material treated with glue.
Plywood or fiberboard is used for cladding To fill in inner space, MDF is used. It is glued with bottom sheet finishing material. But first the glue must dry well. At the same time, it is recommended to prepare consumables for the outer lining of the canvas.
Internal filling gives the canvas rigidity If you need to glue 2 sheets, then the first sheet is fiberboard, and the second is laminated material or ShF. The resulting structure is sent under the press.
You can sheathe the door with natural wooden slats. They are fixed to the frame. The holes made are filled with a mixture of glue and sawdust. If the surface is dry, it is treated with sandpaper. All corners and ends are processed with a milling cutter. Into the finished door leaf and,. The door is mounted in a corresponding frame.
A frame door is made using a similar technique - the internal space is additionally reinforced with beams. But before work begins, accurate calculations, drawing is being prepared.
Making a paneled door
To make a paneled door, you will need special carpentry tools and experience. Components structures are made of plywood, solid boards. A drawing is pre-prepared, on which 4 panels are marked.
The frame is made of timber. It is pre-processed with a milling cutter. Then a groove is made on one side of it. Tenons are cut out on the crossbars, and the edges are processed with a router. Panels and mullions are inserted into the grooves.
The end part of the coating, which will extend to the end of the canvas, must be flat. Slots are made in the vertical elements to assemble the structure.
To make panels, plywood or chipboard is used. Some panel elements are replaced with glass. In this case, glazing beads are additionally used. Panels with a flat plane are mounted and framed with glazing beads.
Otherwise, the panels are processed with a router. In this way a relief configuration is created. Plywood is used to make panels. Each element of the future canvas is treated with an antiseptic and dried.
All parts are assembled into a single structure on a flat surface, and each spike is coated with special glue. Step by step assembly doors:
- gluing crossbars into the grooves of vertical beams;
- installation of mullions;
- installation of the remaining panels;
- gluing vertical beams;
- fixing glazing beads for finishing.
To install the tenons into the grooves, use a rubberized hammer. The canvas is padded from the sides. Used to check angles construction corner. The covering is compressed with clamps.
Markings are made on the canvas for installing hinges and a handle with a lock. Installation of fittings is carried out after completion finishing works. Used for finishing acrylic paint or . To obtain dark coating, stain is used.
Insulation and sound insulation
Door insulation scheme Painting
On next stage processing and decoration of the manufactured structure is carried out. It is recommended to adhere to the following plan:
- processing the coating with sandpaper or a grinding machine;
- impregnation of wood with antiseptic. The first layer should dry well. The processing is then repeated;
- the canvas is covered with a special putty, which can be replaced with a primer. In this case, the canvas is processed 2 times. But each applied layer must dry well. This will take about 2 days;
- For finishing Paint, varnish, and stain are used for coating. The stain must be applied over the primer. Taking into account the desired shade Apply the appropriate number of layers of stain. Each layer will take 4 hours to dry. To fix the result, the stain is coated with two layers of varnish.
To finish the door, paint, varnish, and stain are used. To make doors, manufacturers are increasingly using composite materials, plastic, steel. However, the tree has not lost its popularity. Durable and warm material ideal for entrance doors to the house. From the boards they independently assemble the canvas for outbuildings and baths. Making a wooden door with your own hands is not difficult. You just need to have good board and a set of tools.
When producing wooden doors, you need to know the advantages and disadvantages of the material. The final result depends on this. The main difference between wood is its hardness. Soft woods are easy to work with, but are less resistant to moisture. This material is suitable for interior doors. Process hard wood hand tools difficult, but the material is more resistant to moisture. This wood is suitable for making entrance doors.
When talking about wood species, it is worth considering the resin content of the material. Larch takes first place in this regard. A product made from it will withstand dampness for a long time. Resin protects against rotting.
The following requirements apply to choosing a board:
- minimum number of knots;
- wood moisture content no more than 15%;
- perfect evenness.
For outbuildings, used material taken from the dismantling of old buildings is suitable. Beautiful doors It is better to make one for the house from a new board.
Hardwood
- Birch quite hard and difficult to process, but has an attractive texture.
- Beech characterized by increased strength, but deforms with changes in humidity.
- Alder soft and with high humidity rots quickly.
- Oak hard, tends to split, but is resistant to dampness and beautiful.
- Nut It has an interesting texture, is easy to process, and is not afraid of moisture and mechanical stress.
- Maple moderately hard, well processed, moderately resistant to dampness.
For the manufacture of wooden entrance doors, oak or beech is most often used.
Conifers
- From coniferous species considered the most popular pine. Soft wood is easy to process, but does not withstand moisture well. The material is best used in the manufacture of wooden interior doors.
- Larch characterized beautiful texture and great resinity. Solid wood perfectly resists moisture, which makes it possible to use the board for assembling entrance doors.
- Spruce knotty, lighter and softer than pine, slightly inferior in strength.
Tools
Used in production special machines for the manufacture of wooden doors.
- Reismus necessary for processing the board. The most productive are double-sided planing machines, cleaning the workpiece in one pass.
- Without milling machine Manufacturing wooden doors is not possible. It is used to make locking joints on boards, select chamfers, and process shaped workpieces.
- When pasted on wooden frame linings are used press.
- Circular saw loosen the board to the desired size.
To make wooden interior doors with your own hands at home, no one will buy expensive machines. An electric one is suitable for unraveling the board. disk saw.
You can select grooves and process the surface of the workpieces manual router.
Additionally, you should have on hand:
- drill;
- screwdriver;
- wood hacksaw;
- grinder;
- chisels, mallet, corner, level, tape measure.
To paint the door leaf, it is advisable to use a compressor with an air gun.
Necessary materials
To make a wooden door with your own hands you will need the following materials:
- dry tongue and groove board;
- self-tapping screws;
During the purchase, the thickness of the boards is selected taking into account the installation location of the door leaf. For interior door 25 mm thick wood is sufficient. For front door use a board 50 mm thick. After purchasing, it is advisable to dry the wooden blanks by laying them on a flat surface using pads.
Additionally, they buy a wooden entrance door mortise lock, hinges, handles, viewing eye. For an interior door, it is enough to take hinges and a handle with a latch.
How to make a wooden door?
When assembling a simple wooden door with your own hands, a drawing or complex diagram is not needed. It is enough to measure the height and width of the door leaf. The dimensions of the sash are calculated so that it fits into the grooves door frame, and there was a gap of about 5 mm around the perimeter. When making a wooden door, the main elements are prepared: a tongue-and-groove board with a tongue-and-groove lock for the door leaf and a crossbar made from edged blanks.
Consists of step-by-step instruction Assembling a wooden door with your own hands using the following steps:
- the boards are sawn to the height of the future canvas and laid out on a flat surface, observing one direction of the pattern of annual rings;
- the tenons with grooves are lubricated with wood glue, all the boards are connected, tightly squeezing the canvas with a clamp;
- After the glue has dried, the tenon on the outer plank is cut off from the end of the product, and the entire surface of the shield is milled and polished.
- To prevent the sash from falling apart, the structure is secured with cross members. Edged board shape into a trapezoid, grooves are made on the canvas to a depth of 1/3 of the thickness wooden blank and lubricate them with wood glue. The crossbars are inserted into the recesses by tapping with a mallet. For reliability, you can fix it with self-tapping screws.
- To make the sash last longer, treatment is performed antiseptic impregnations. If it is necessary to install a double-glazed window on a wooden door, a window is cut out in the panel using a jigsaw. A board is nailed to the center of the end of the entire perimeter of the opening - a stop for two glasses. After installing the double-glazed window, the edges are framed with glazing beads or decorative strips.
If thick fabric is required, the sash is made of two layers. In the two-layer technology for manufacturing a wooden door, the perpendicularity of the boards of both panels is maintained. Glue them together with wood glue.
Keyed
Assemble warm wooden doors for a private house without special effort can be made from boards with dowels. The manufacturing technology consists of the following steps:
Typically, solid doors for entering a house are made of oak, beech or cedar. The canvas can be decorated in an antique style or given modern style. A simple wooden door, assembled with your own hands from a pine board, will fit into a bathhouse or barn.
Panel
Panel door - a budget option. The frame is rectangular frame from the board. Fiberboard sheets are glued to both sides. IN industrial conditions additional veneer or laminate cladding is used. Another feature of the door design is the filling of the frame voids with insulation from wood waste: sawdust, shavings, small chips, corrugated cardboard.
Let's look at how to make a wooden panel door out of boards with your own hands step by step:
- A fiberboard sheet is cut to the size of the sash, as well as blanks from boards for the frame;
- all elements are laid out on a flat surface, connected to each other with wood glue and self-tapping screws;
- bottom panel made of fiberboard with wooden frame formed voids that are filled with sawdust;
- The upper part of the frame is smeared with glue, a second fiberboard panel is laid and the entire sash is pressed with a press.
You can glue veneer on top of the finished door leaf as a finish, and round off the sharp corners with a router.
Paneled
Design paneled doors It is a frame made of timber, inside of which a set of horizontal crossbars, vertical lintels, and also mullions are inserted. As a result, cells are formed for inserting the panel. The technology allows you to make a wooden door with glass, plastic, and other materials. The strength of the web depends on the number of crossbars.
The panel is cut to such a size that it fits into the cell with a gap of 2 mm. Glass inserts or fiberboard is immediately secured with glazing beads. The edges of a thick panel of plywood or chipboard are milled until they become 2 mm thinner than the grooves cut on the frame. The last to be attached are the framing beads.
Decor
Decorating a homemade wooden door begins with sanding. Next, the treatment is carried out with an antiseptic that protects the wood from dampness and pests. After drying, the surface of the door is covered with two layers of primer or putty. Finishing layer paint or varnish is applied.
If there professional tool, as well as certain skills, the canvas is decorated with carvings, stencils are cut out and even a mosaic is made.
Making paneled doors is a complex task that requires special skills. But simpler doors can easily be made with your own hands by a person who knows how to hold a hammer and saw in his hands. It’s unlikely that a work of art will work out, but a good quality product will.
At self-production doors, first of all, measure the doorway: you need to make a door frame. In most cases, it looks like the letter “P”: install two vertical racks and one horizontal at the top - the lintel or crossbar.
The plank, which is attached below, is rarely used today, but there are rooms special purpose, in which the threshold is required. For example, in the steam room of a Russian bath. A threshold is needed here to prevent steam from escaping.
Having previously assembled the door frame on the floor, you can decide on the dimensions of the future door: they should be a couple of centimeters smaller than the frame you made. After you make the door leaf, cut in the hinges. Doors made of wood are heavy, and it is very difficult to carry them and try on the hinges. Therefore, it is more convenient to do everything on the floor. Mark the fastenings for the hinges, make a recess to the required depth, install them on the jamb and on the door leaf.
Then you install the box in the opening, secure it, and only then hang the doors. Here in general outline how the process happens. Now let’s learn more about how to make doors with your own hands.
Making a door frame
According to the rules, the door frame pillars must be hidden in the floor and rest on the joists. But today they don’t do it everywhere here. wooden floors and therefore more often they simply rest them on the finished floor. But by the time the door is installed, the floor must be ready, only the baseboards have not been nailed down.
We assume that the floor and doorway are ready. Decide what type of box you will install: “U”-shaped or with a bottom jumper. Draw a diagram, measure the opening, and plot the measurement results on the image.
For brick, concrete or other similar walls, the dimensions of the box should be a couple of centimeters smaller than the opening: a gap is needed for mounting elements and foam. For walls made of timber or logs, they generally make a frame or casing - bars installed around the perimeter with a small gap, which will compensate for the shrinkage of the building, and at the same time fasten the logs or beams that have become loose after cutting out the opening. Of course, Additional materials and work, but this is the only way to guarantee that the doors will not jam.
As a result of measurements, the height of the two side bars - racks - may differ slightly. It's not scary. It is important that they are vertical, and horizontal top bar- the lintel was strictly horizontal.
The door frame is made from one board with a molded groove or a composite one - from several boards glued together. The width of the groove should match the thickness of the door leaf or be a couple of millimeters larger.
If you have a woodworking machine on your farm, you do everything yourself. No - you buy it in a carpentry shop, hardware store, etc. You will need two strips for the side posts and one or two (depending on the type of box) for the horizontal jumpers.
The bars from which the jambs are made can be simple, or they can have a shaped (profile) front part. You can install a rubber or silicone seal. To do this, make a shallow cut into it using a special roller (or a regular screwdriver) and install an elastic band. These seals are much more effective and durable than foam rubber ones, there are different colors and forms, sold in hardware stores.
The planks are polished on three sides to perfection. The fourth will be leaning against the wall; it does not need to be processed.
Assembly order
Saw off the top jumper to the required width. Now you need to make grooves in it into which the racks will fit. To do this, you need to remove the protrusion to the width of the block. It sounds confusing, but if you look at the photo, everything will become clearer.
Measure the width of the counter, mark this distance on the ceiling, and draw a straight line. Make a cut to the depth of the tenon ( hand saw). Now use chisels to remove excess. Having smoothed it with sandpaper, make two holes for the screws: this is how they will be fastened to the posts.
Do the same on the other side. Just don’t start sawing without measuring the second post: the joinery may differ by a couple of millimeters, and this can lead to the appearance of cracks. First you measure, then you mark, and only then you cut and work with a chisel.
If the structure has a threshold, it is processed in exactly the same way.
Now all that remains is to adjust the height of the side strips. From the total height of the doorway, subtract the thickness of the transverse strips (upper, and, if any, lower) and the distance under polyurethane foam(1-2 cm). Get the height of the racks. You saw them off and assemble the whole structure together. The door frame was assembled with your own hands. Let's start making the door leaf.
Wooden doors to a bathhouse or country house
Doors made of wood can have a complex design. Beginners should not immediately take on such work: they need to learn from simple things. Doors to a bathhouse, a summer house, etc. are ideal in this regard. They rarely come complex structures. The main thing here is reliability and functionality. Attractiveness is also important, but even simple doors to the steam room, made with your own hands - a result you can be proud of. If they are well processed, they look very decent: the material is beautiful, it does not need any decorations. It is important to properly process and varnish.
Materials
Good commercial wood is used for the manufacture of joinery, without knots or with a minimum number of them. If there are knots, they should not be black. You also need dry wood with a moisture content of no more than 12-15%. Ideally take boards chamber drying- it definitely won’t lead them. Also look at their geometry: “propellers” and “waves” do not suit us. The boards must be level.
You can buy sanded boards with a molded tongue and groove - there will be less work Thickness - from 25 mm to 50 mm. Depending on the purpose and design of the door. Before use, their surface is brought to a perfectly smooth state - grinding machines or manually using sandpaper, fixed for convenience on a small block.
A simple option made from planed boards
The simplest wooden interior door can be made from one row of boards 30-40 mm thick, fastened together with transverse strips. Planed and sanded boards are stacked close to one another. There should be no gaps, the match is perfect.
The dimensions of the door leaf should be 4 mm smaller in width and length of the manufactured door frame. Only in this case will it be possible to close them without problems.
To avoid drafts, the boards can be made with profiled edges: make a tenon half the thickness or saw the edges at 45 o. This option is more labor-intensive, but the room will be warm.
According to the rules, grooves are cut out in the boards for transverse strips - dowels. The dowels are driven into this groove, fastening the boards together. Having a special wood saw - a reward - is easy to do:
- Make two cuts at 45 o. To prevent the saw from slipping, the angle was kept even; a block with the same angle was nailed to the edge. By sliding the saw along it, you will make an even cut at the desired angle.
- On the other side, at a distance of 30 mm, make a similar cut in the other direction.
- Use a chisel to select wood between them. The result is a trapezoidal groove into which a key of the same format is driven. For greater reliability, you can use wood glue. It is better not to use PVA glue. Moreover, for the doors to the steam room: it will not withstand such temperatures. For steam rooms and wet rooms, glue is chosen with a high moisture resistance class (from D3 and above).
As a result, you will get doors to the steam room, assembled with your own hands, without nails.
You can assemble a similar door easier: by screwing the transverse and oblique strips 25-30 mm thick onto self-tapping screws. If you are installing it in a steam room, it is advisable to recess the caps into the wood, or screw them in from the side of the washing and changing rooms. So, when you touch the door, you will not get burned by the heated metal.
Entrance door made of two rows of boards
If the doors are made from two rows of boards, and insulation is laid between them, you will get a good entrance door or an excellent heat-saving option for a steam room. But then you will need a good one in the steam room - with such a device, air does not pass through the doors.
The first row is assembled in exactly the same way as in the previous version: the boards are tightly fitted to one another and fastened with transverse strips.
Doors made of two rows of boards are already entrance doors Another row will be laid on top, and the gap can be filled with heat insulation. It is selected depending on the installation location: for the front door it is important that if moisture gets in, the insulation does not lose its properties and is not afraid of freezing. A good option is polystyrene foam; polystyrene foam is cheaper. Mineral wool are not suitable - they are afraid of moisture, unless they are protected with a layer of moisture insulation. Then they will keep warm well.
Having laid the heat insulator, it is pressed with a second layer of boards, which are attached to the transverse planks with self-tapping screws. If you have a door without nails on one side, you can turn this side towards the street: this way you won’t have to worry about unsightly dark streaks coming from the caps during use.
The final stage of manufacturing a wooden entrance door is finishing around the perimeter. In principle, it was possible to fill (screw with self-tapping screws) slats onto the first layer. It's more correct option. But you can, having assembled both layers, attach thin - 5-7 mm - strips around the perimeter from the ends, covering the insides.
The final stage is finishing the doorway. This is the first thing - if the width of the door frame is not enough, and which give a finished look.
See the video for one of the options for such a door.
Plywood doors
You can make good interior doors with your own hands from blocks and plywood. There may be several options.
Single layer
This design is suitable for installation in any utility room, where sound and heat insulation is unimportant. This is a frame made of wooden blocks with several transverse strips, onto which a plywood sheet of suitable size is stuffed.
Plywood can be anything, but for good appearance 1-2 classes required. It does not contain (class 1) or almost no (class 2) knots on the front surface. This material comes in different thicknesses: from 3 mm to 21 mm. There is moisture-resistant plywood - it can be used in wet rooms, there is laminated plywood - in this case there is no need for finishing: It is covered with PVC film and has a look similar to wood.
When choosing plywood for residential premises or baths, you need to pay attention not to safety: in its manufacture, glue is used that contains formaldehyde. The content of formaldehyde is controlled, depending on its quantity and intensity of its release into the atmosphere, and an emission class is assigned: from 0 (almost none) to 5. Plywood with emission class 0 and 1 is allowed even for the manufacture of children's furniture. Therefore, it is also suitable for doors to the bathhouse.
Multilayer
The design is similar, only there can be two or three layers. Heat/sound insulation can be laid between them. As a result similar doors You can also put it in a steam room. You just need to take it moisture resistant plywood. It can then be tinted with stain and covered with heat-resistant varnish (if you want, of course) or soaked in drying oil or wax.
Multi-layer plywood doors are easy to make with your own hands You can fasten plywood using small nails or self-tapping screws. You will have to drill holes for the screws: then there will be a guarantee that upper layer will not be damaged.
Results
You can make wooden or plywood doors with your own hands. It is important to choose a suitable design, have some patience and time, as well as a certain amount of materials.
“Why make an interior door if you can go and buy it? - some will ask. — Selection of doors in stores for every taste and color, in any price category. And there’s less hassle.” Everyone has their own reason, for example, a doorway in a room custom size, make to order in Vacation home or it’s expensive and costly to go to the dacha. However, this is not the topic of this article. And the topic is different: how to make an interior door with your own hands.
Let's consider the principle of creation interior door, or rather canvases. It can be used to make both swing and sliding doors.
The interior door is still in such an unfinished state. It needs to be painted, as well as the trim. I’m thinking of using odorless paint, since you can’t really open the windows for ventilation, it’s a little cold. Another advantage of this paint is that it dries quickly, about two hours.
Or rather, not even paint, but universal acrylic enamel. According to manufacturers, such enamel is an environmentally friendly and safe product. Weather resistant, suitable for outdoor and interior works, intended for any surfaces: wood, metal, concrete, brick, plastered, etc. The enamel can be diluted with water, but not more than 5% of the total volume.
Plus or minus, I don’t know, the enamel is glossy, I haven’t come across matte ones anywhere, except for radiators. It washes perfectly, with any detergent, and does not wash out. On wooden surface it will look like this.
How to make an interior door. Planning.
First of all, of course, we need to plan the dimensions of the future interior door and what material we will make it from. The first thing that comes to mind is a frame door covered with MDF, fiberboard or plywood. Why frame? Firstly, there are no skills to make an interior door from natural wood correctly and efficiently so that it does not fall apart or dry out in the near future. Secondly, there is no special woodworking equipment. In the case of a frame door, neither the first nor the second is needed.
As I already said, the doorway where the door needs to be installed is non-standard. It has dimensions of 79x186 cm. So, the plan of the interior door is in the picture below. 
We will need
According to the plan, we cut the timber to the required length. We connect them together with self-tapping screws and fix them with corners for greater strength and stability of the structure.
I immediately burned the side part of the frame, since I initially did not plan to paint the door. I wanted to burn the wooden parts and varnish them. In the first photos you can see trial version opening. But I didn’t like the way the fiberboard looked. Therefore, later I abandoned this idea and decided to paint over everything. Although it is possible to trim the door with veneer. In this way, the appearance and structure of wooden elements - platbands, openings - will be preserved as much as possible.
I also had the idea of using plywood. I went shopping and couldn’t find any sheets of 1.2*2.4; everywhere there were only 1.5*1.5. But the Internet is full of such offers. Apparently in our little town this is not popular, so they don’t sell it, and if they do, it’s only on order in certain quantities. In general, once I paint it, I’ll be sure to post a photo of how it turned out. I hope everything will be great.
We cut the fiberboard sheets and make them a little larger than the frame of the interior door, literally a couple of millimeters. We place them on liquid nails and clamp them with a clamp until they dry completely. There is no need to apply too much glue, as it will come out, which is unsightly.
You can decorate the door with a decorative strip. Available in different patterns (curly, openwork, simple straight, etc.) and sizes.
All that remains is to hang the interior door on its hinges. As you can see, nothing complicated. I look forward to your comments.