How to grow a watermelon in a greenhouse: formation scheme, pinching, care. Growing watermelon in greenhouse conditions How to tie melons and watermelons in a greenhouse

Hardworking summer residents grow a wide variety of vegetables and fruits. Surprise experienced gardeners, it would seem, there is nothing. Even the southern crops of grapes, cherries, and apricots have successfully “registered” in our areas. Melons and melons still remain a curiosity, although growing watermelons in a greenhouse is a simple and pleasant matter. Caring for them and melons is no more difficult than caring for cucumbers. And how nice it is for the whole family to feast on fragrant, and also environmentally friendly, fruits! Follow detailed advice in agricultural technology, and you will be pleased with an unprecedented harvest of delicious melons.

This video explains how to grow watermelons in a polycarbonate greenhouse.

The first condition is a well-prepared greenhouse

• Use tall structures

Under open air Heat-loving melons will not grow in our conditions, the soil must be protected. The greenhouse won't be useful - it's too small. Any greenhouse will do, the only condition is that its height should be at least 1.7 meters, or even better – about two meters. As they grow, melons climb high up the trellises, so a lower height may not be enough.

• Arrange separate housing

Melons and watermelons develop excellently next to other crops: peppers, cucumbers, eggplants. But experienced summer residents They use a separate greenhouse for melons. This tactic allows you to choose optimal conditions for southern berries: temperature about 30˚C and low air humidity. Plants are adapted to drought, but cannot tolerate high humidity at all: if it is above 60%, they suffer from fungal diseases.

• Preparing the greenhouse in advance

At the end of March, remove snow from the greenhouse, if there is any, and carefully inspect the structure inside and out. Correct all damage: picky people are afraid of frost, any crack will let cold air in and lead to the death of seedlings. Stretch the film and take care of the soil fertility: a neutral soil that is not too greasy is suitable.

Work on preparing the greenhouse can begin immediately after the snow melts

For now, use shelter for early-ripening, cold-resistant crops. Before growing a melon in a greenhouse, sow greens, radishes, and daikon there. Melons are planted in well-warmed soil when frosts are no longer dangerous - the greenhouse will be free by this time.

Also place material in advance in the greenhouse to protect the sprouts from sudden cold weather. This can be spunbond, special film, rags, paper - anything that can save fragile seedlings.

The second condition is the right seeds

Choose varieties with medium-sized fruits - you are guaranteed to get an excellent harvest

Please note the following when purchasing:

• Place of seed production. Take material from your region, adapted to your climate.
• The period from fruit set to ripening. A short period guarantees fruit production, but with a long period you risk being left without a harvest.
• The size of the fruit. Do not believe the forecasts of an “unearthly” number of large watermelons and melons. Giant melons ripen only in the south! In a greenhouse, medium-sized berries will ripen faster; there are usually a lot of them - they set better.
• Best before date. Take seeds with reserve. Fresh material germinates better.

Do-it-yourself strong seedlings

From the moment of sowing to planting in the ground, only 25-35 days will pass, which means that every day means a lot for the plant. Have time to complete all the work on time, and strong people will move into the greenhouse. healthy plants.

In separate pots, plants will grow strong and strong.

Tricks for sowing seeds

• Optimal timing. Don't be late - mid-to-late April is quite suitable.
• To each sprout - separate area. Peat pots are preferable, then when transplanting into soil root system will not be damaged. Use cups with a diameter of no more than 10 cm - in wider ones the seedlings can be ruined by overwatering. There are no ready-made pots - build them yourself by cutting off the necks of plastic bottles.
• Soaking seeds before sowing. Leave the seeds for a while in warm water - about 23-25 ​​degrees - or an immunostimulant solution (such as Epin). After this treatment, they will rise faster and more friendly.
• Correct soil composition (per bucket of mixture):
  • land - one part;
  • humus - three parts;
  • fertilizer with phosphorus - three tablespoons;
  • nitrogen fertilizer - one spoon;
  • fertilizer with potassium - one spoon.

  You can do without fertilizers and add potassium sulfate (a teaspoon) and wood ash(cup).

• Seed position. To ensure that the cotyledon leaves easily break through the shell, place the seeds on their side.
• Planting depth is 2-3 cm.
• Air temperature. Before germination – 22-25°C, after sprouts appear – 21-23°C.
• Cover with film until the first shoots.

Plants begin to be tied up already on the tenth day after planting in the greenhouse, when they are still short

How to care for seedlings

Watching the seedlings is a pleasure! It grows before our eyes without much hassle if three conditions are met:

1. Complete freedom - move the pots away from each other, do not allow them to touch.
2. Good feeding to give the seedlings strength, there should be two of them before planting in the greenhouse. The easiest way is to give your pets a drink diluted in water. mineral fertilizer. Carry out the first feeding on the tenth day after sowing or a little later - an earlier procedure can burn weak roots.
3. Long-term lighting – 12-14 hours a day. Compensate for the lack of light by using lamps. With a lack of lighting, plants weaken and stretch.

Proper planting of melon in a greenhouse. When tying melons to trellises, direct the strongest shoots

Rules for planting seedlings

• Choosing the best dates

Arrange melons on permanent place needed in stable warm weather. If the greenhouse is equipped with heating devices, seedlings can be planted in mid-May. In the absence of heaters, do not take risks; tomatoes and cucumbers will tolerate short-term cold, but capricious melons and watermelons will not, even with reliable shelter. Start work when the daytime temperature reaches 20-25 degrees, and the night temperature exceeds five degrees. Postpone planting if weather forecasters threaten soil frosts. If the watermelons are in a greenhouse and frost is expected, carefully wrap the plants with covering material prepared in advance.

• Preparing the soil

Prepare the soil in advance. Remove upper layer soil and place hay and humus in the trench. Sprinkle with nitrogen fertilizer and water thoroughly hot water. Then lay down the soil again and, if possible, cover the beds tightly with black material. Under such a “hot water bottle” the soil will quickly warm up.

• We practice landing techniques:
  1. Plant the seedlings in a row, according to a 70x50cm pattern.
  2. You can place two plants in one hole and determine their vines as they grow in different directions.
  3. First fill the holes with humus or compost and water generously with warm water.
  4. Plant the seedlings directly in peat pots. Remove them from plastic ones carefully; the roots are easily injured.
  5. Do not bury the seedling ball; let it rise one or two centimeters above the soil. Otherwise, the hypocotyledonous knee will rot.

Growing melon in a polycarbonate greenhouse. Place planks under the fruits - they will grow dry and will not be affected

Caring for melons in a greenhouse

In the first days after planting, the plants do not require care. Further care comes down to ventilation and watering.

• Ventilation

Temperatures above 30 degrees are detrimental to seedlings, so on hot days, open the windows (if they are provided for in the design) or tuck the film at the ends.

• Watering

Use only warm water. Try not to get it on the leaves to avoid rotting. The leaves signal the need for watering: if they wilt, hurry to get a watering can.

Attention!

Excessive watering is dangerous! Plants will be affected by fungal diseases, and whole fruits will crack.

• Top dressing

Add to water once a week when watering ammonium nitrate and nitrogen fertilizers. Wood ash adds sweetness to the fruit. Complete the procedures before the fruits ripen so that nitrates do not enter the body.

• Pinching and Garter

How to plant watermelons? The growing point is removed, like in cucumbers, with the appearance of the fifth leaf. When the ovaries reach the size of plums, leave one of the correct shape on each vine, and remove the rest without regret. Do not hesitate with the garter, it can be started already on the tenth day after disembarkation. The fruits themselves are subsequently tied up like this: they are placed in the middle of the net, its edges are tied and suspended from the trellis using twine.

• Pollination

Artificial pollination is not needed if the windows are open for a long time. Bees fly around the greenhouse - you will have to work hard. Find the most large flowers- men's. Pick them, carefully tear off the petals and place their anthers on the stigmas of the female flowers. Repeat the procedure several times. Carry out such work better in the morning.

Attention!

Don't delay pollination! The lifespan of male flowers is negligible - only a few hours. If the female flowers are not pollinated, there will be no fruit.

Harvest the ripe harvest

It’s easy to understand that a melon in a polycarbonate greenhouse is ripe. Ring cracks appear at the tail, and the fruits themselves exude an amazing aroma. Determining the ripeness of watermelons is more difficult. The following signs will help:

• brightness of the bark pattern;
• dull sound when tapped.

Harvest only dry melons, then they will be stored longer. Place the harvested crops in open carton boxes, transferring with thick paper.

The ripeness of a watermelon is indicated by the brightness and clarity of the stripes.

Your efforts will definitely be crowned with success! Market stalls with southern fruits will no longer entice you. Clean, juicy watermelons and melons from their native land are much tastier and safer.

Juicy sweet watermelons and soft fragrant melons - who doesn't love this taste of summer? But in order for these melon crops to please you with a truly tasty harvest at the end of the season, you need to have an idea of ​​​​the agricultural technology of their cultivation. Pinching plants plays a significant role here. Today you will learn how to correctly pinch watermelons and melons, and whether this procedure is generally necessary for sweet melons (photos and a video diagram of this process are attached).

Do I need to pinch watermelons and melons?

Watermelons (melons) – quite exotic berries, which love heat very much and produce the best harvests in warm climates. If it is not, preference should be given to growing in greenhouse conditions. In order for watermelons and melons to take root on the site and produce a rich harvest, it is necessary not only to know, but also to follow all the rules for growing these crops.

The most important thing in successful cultivation watermelons - high-quality and timely care, as well as correct pinching. True, if the cultivation of melons is carried out in closed ground, you can try to do without this procedure.

To get large watermelons, you need to pinch the vines

Despite the fact that many consider pinching berries from the melon family to be a harmful and unnecessary process, with its help you can achieve maximum yield.

Advice. If you want to speed up the process of fruit ripening, as well as maximize their taste, or if you are a resident of cold northern regions, be sure to use the pinching procedure.

Scheme for pinching melons (berries)

The process of pinching melons is quite simple, but it requires a certain amount of attention and accuracy. More on this later.

Pinching a watermelon

Before you start pinching watermelons, remind yourself that this crop grows on a central stem (this will help you avoid losses during harvest). Remember also that climate plays an important role when growing watermelons/melons. So, the process of pinching a watermelon is as follows:

Advice. If you are new to gardening or are trying to grow watermelons/melons on your plot for the first time, try experimenting in the first year: after planting several plants during the period of their active growth, try pinching each of the watermelon groups in different ways. During the harvest period, you will be able to evaluate the result and next year use the optimal scheme from your point of view.

Pinching a melon

The formation of a melon is carried out in a radically opposite way, since the formation of fruits occurs exclusively on the side shoots. And this means that you need to pinch the main one.

The main stem must be pruned at the level of the third pair of leaves, immediately after the appearance of sufficiently strong side shoots.

Advice. You should not leave too many shoots on the melon vine: 2-3 on each side is enough. This will be enough for complete pollination of the plant in the future.

Control the number of ovaries formed: it is enough to leave only one under each shoot. When the fruits have grown sufficiently (to the size of an average apple), it is necessary to slightly shorten the tops of the side shoots to several leaves above the formed fruit.

Pinching a melon

If you have planted enough large-fruited variety, make sure that the plant is regularly monitored. During the period of active appearance of ovaries on the plant, carefully monitor their number. If extra ovaries appear at a time when you are no longer expecting them (this means specimens in excess of the norm), in mandatory remove them. They will not bear fruit, but will take away a lot of vitality from the plant.

If you got a little carried away and removed too many leaves during the formation of the plant, you can correct the situation by carefully pinching the shoots above the fruits, thus provoking active growth new leaves.

This concludes our consideration of the features of the formation of melon bushes. The above information will tell you how not to harm the plant, but to help it accelerate its growth. Good luck!

Growing watermelons: video

How to tie up watermelons in a greenhouse? This question is not so simple, because watermelon vines are long, and the fruits themselves are large and heavy. Under their weight, vertically weaving shoots can break, which will affect the condition of the plant and the safety of the fruit itself.

Tying watermelon lashes

In the vast expanses of the southern melon field, watermelons spread along the ground, and the world's largest berry calmly ripens on the hot ground. No one experiences any inconvenience. Another thing is the limited space of greenhouses. Here you need to be able to fit a long flexible plant into a small volume indoors. Here you can’t do without a vertical arrangement.

Watermelon is a southern, light-loving and heat-loving plant. It can be grown even in Siberia, but mainly in closed ground. Somewhere in the area of ​​Novosibirsk or Khabarovsk there is enough sun and warmth for a watermelon, but the problem is the duration of the favorable period. In 2 or 3 months, a watermelon may not have time to grow a 10 m long cane and several 3 kg of berries. He can only grow a 2 m vine and green fruits the size of an apple.

Watermelons grown in extreme conditions for them are planted as seedlings. They are planted in open ground at the end of May or beginning of June; in a greenhouse they can be placed a month earlier.

Don't forget that watermelons can't stand high humidity. This requirement especially applies to shoots and fruit. The greenhouse where watermelons are grown must be regularly ventilated, and the plants themselves must be placed where there is more sun and fresh air.

Watermelons in a polycarbonate greenhouse grow and bear fruit excellently, but only if they are placed rationally. From the very first days of the formation of watermelon vines, they need to be tied to trellises. The length and height of the trellises must be planned based on the plant variety, the length of the growing season and the size of the greenhouse. Growing this plant in a greenhouse with a height of less than 2 m is extremely difficult.

It is best to place watermelons around the perimeter of the greenhouse, installing arched trellises across the entire room from one wall to the other.

Watermelons can be grown in 1 stem. In this case, all the lashes that have not formed an ovary are removed. The remaining shoots need to be pinched regularly. 4-6 ovaries are left on one plant. This way the plant saves energy, directing all resources to the formation and growth of fruits.

Tying the whip should begin after the plant reaches a size of about 1 m. This is necessary in order to be able to first lay the whip on the ground. About half a meter from the root, the stem should be bent to the soil and lightly sprinkled. In this way, an additional root is formed, which will provide the fruits with additional resources.

It would seem, why tie up watermelon vines if they weave themselves. To some extent, this is true - build good trellises and give the watermelon freedom to choose its space. However, it is necessary to direct the movement of watermelon shoots; sometimes they should be tied to a trellis. This will avoid thickening and create an optimal fruit arrangement network.

Hanging fruit

The biggest problem is fruit binding. The following options for securing them are possible.

1. Fruits reaching the size of an apple or larger are hung in nets that hang from trellises. This method of growing watermelons can be called the most effective and rational. Firstly, the nets are reusable and can be used for several years in a row. Secondly, this way the fruits are not susceptible to rotting or infection by fungi. Thirdly, watermelons are illuminated by the sun from all sides and ripen evenly. The disadvantage of this placement is the need to build permanent, strong trellises.
2. The fruits are tied to the trellises by hand as they increase in size.
3. Special stands made of plastic or wood are made for the fruits. For such placement there is no need to build permanent trellises; it is enough to stretch the twines to the ceiling of the greenhouse. As a result, the lashes will stretch upward, and the fruits will lie on stands. You don’t have to invent anything special, but use buckets, stools, boxes, etc.
4. Instead of purchased nets, you can use worn-out clothing items. We are, of course, talking about stockings, tights, mesh T-shirts, etc.
5. Trellis can be combined with shelves, only instead of books or dishes there will be watermelons on the shelves. Old furniture can be used for such trellises.

There can be many options for placing and securing watermelons. The main thing is a rational combination of imagination, resources and needs of a plant called watermelon.

Wanting to taste a ripe watermelon, we head to markets or supermarkets. But in this case, there is no guarantee that the purchased product will not harm our health. This is precisely what forces many to think about the possibility of growing such a crop on their own. personal plot. And here they become topical issues agrotechnical plan. Not everyone knows whether there is a need to pinch watermelons how to do it correctly. Meanwhile, experienced gardeners They claim that growing watermelons is no more difficult than growing tomatoes.

Watermelon is considered an exotic berry and must be grown in greenhouse conditions. or in open ground in areas with a favorable climate for this.

In addition to all the features of planting and growing, there is a procedure for pinching watermelons. This process is essentially reminiscent of pinching seedlings of other crops (melon, sweet bell pepper etc.).

It allows the fruit to ripen faster, gain sweetness and juiciness.

Attention: if cultivation is carried out in a greenhouse, pinching is not permitted. It is considered mandatory for the northern regions.

Pinching this berry allows it to direct all its energy to forming the fruit, rather than building up excess green mass.

During this operation, two or three ovaries remain on the shoot, a limited number of fruits and shoots develop on the plant.

Which varieties require pinching?

Pinching is performed based on the variety being grown and climatic conditions. The procedure is mandatory large varieties , an example of which is “Astrakhansky”.

Varieties that need large quantities sunlight and warmth, ripen quickly and are considered quite tasty. In our areas, the cold comes a little early, so it is necessary to help the plants ripen while the days are warm.

For clarity, the features of pinching varieties are shown in the table:

How to perform the procedure for pinching watermelons: diagram

Some gardeners think that this procedure can harm the plant, completely destroying the crop. But if you adhere to the established requirements, then productivity will only increase.

• watermelons grow mainly on the main shoot;
• No more than four ovaries are left for each bush;
• when the first ovaries are formed, the lashes are processed;
• removal of the main bud. This should not be done, since it is already known that it is the main shoot that bears fruit;
• removal of shoots. The procedure is mandatory, since it allows all the plant’s forces to be directed to the formation of a harvest;
• removal of fruitless shoots. This is done after pollination has taken place and the ovary has appeared, which should be left in optimal quantities. The bush must be inspected weekly, removing lateral shoots to allow the berries to grow to the desired size;
• pinching skeletal stems. In this case, side branches remain on the main shoot. The fruit ovary appears on them, but the shoots must be removed from the main stem. In total, no more than six fruits should remain on the plant, two per vine.

Pinch off the top of three leaves. Excess shoots are removed using scissors. Branching the bush allows you to get a good harvest. The optimal amount of remaining leaves helps the plant nourish itself and prevents it from drying out.

Pinching is performed in sunny weather so that the injured area can dry out quickly. On rainy days, rot may appear and the likelihood of disease will increase.

Pinching a watermelon after fruit set:

How to form watermelon lashes correctly

To successfully grow watermelons in mid-latitude areas, you need to properly form a bush. There are three main methods for this:

1. On the main shoot of the plant three berries remain if the variety is large-fruited, and no more than six ovaries when the watermelon is smaller. The lateral processes remain without an ovary; there are only four large sheets, the rest of the shoot is pinched. Such lashes will help the plant to eat well. When the fruits begin to gain mass, the lower shoots are gradually removed.
2. Side lashes are removed from the bush, the ovary remains on the main stem after five leaves. It is recommended not to forget that during the growth period the bushes may produce new stepsons. They are also picked off, periodically inspecting the plant.
3. Experienced gardeners leave side lashes, because this is where the berries are formed. But the entire ovary is removed from the main shoot. After waiting for the bush to gain mass and begin to form the first inflorescences, leave from four to six flowers, depending on the plant variety.

Formation of watermelons in open ground:

There should be one or two fruits per vine. All remaining shoots are pinched, leaving three to four leaves above the ovary. Excess stepsons are carefully removed with scissors.

As soon as young watermelons begin to gain weight, all pinching procedures must be stopped. The plant begins to gain strength.

If you overdid it, and by the time the berries grow there is only a small amount of foliage left on the bush, it is recommended to pinch the shoot itself located above the fruit.

This measure will help provoke the formation of new leaves, which each plant needs for normal development.

The pinching option is selected based on variety grown, conditions and climate. A suitable procedure is determined experimentally.

For the first time, several bushes are planted, each of which uses one of the types of pinching. At the end of the season, the yield is compared and appropriate conclusions are drawn.

After such events the harvest on your melon patch will always grow rich and tasty.

One of the favorite crops of most gardeners is watermelon. If in the south there are no special problems with its cultivation, then in colder regions it is necessary to resort to the use of greenhouse structures. For getting good harvest For this crop, it is necessary to correctly position the greenhouse or greenhouse, provide appropriate care, and take timely measures to combat pests and diseases.

Choosing a watermelon variety for indoor ground

Today it is offered big choice varieties of melons such as watermelon. However, among all the variety, only those that are characterized by a short ripening period and small fruits are suitable for indoor soil. Let's consider the varieties that are most preferable for greenhouse cultivation.

Ogonyok

One of the popular varieties, the peculiarity of which is its early ripening: the harvest begins on the 80th day from the moment of emergence. The fruit has a spherical shape, weighs about 2.5 kg, has a thin, dark green, glossy peel without stripes. The seeds of Ogonyok are small, the pulp is characterized by a pronounced watermelon smell. The variety is unpretentious in cultivation and is resistant to anthracnose and Fusarium leaf wilt. The main disadvantage is the short shelf life.

The light refers to unpretentious varieties, characterized by resistance to anthracnose, fusarium leaf wilt

Skorik

An early ripening and quite popular variety, which was bred relatively recently (in 1997). The fruits are large in size (up to 3 kg) and ripen 65–90 days after emergence. The shape of the fruit is round-spherical, striped peel color, scarlet flesh, dense and juicy, with a rich watermelon aroma. This variety can be stored in the refrigerator for several months.

An early-ripening variety with large fruits up to 3 kg, which ripen 65–90 days after germination

Gift to the North

Watermelon is an early hybrid, characterized by a growing season of 75–85 days. The fruits grow quite large and reach 2–5 kg in greenhouse conditions and 10 kg in open ground. The variety has a smooth skin Green colour with dark stripes. The pulp is characterized by a high sugar content and a bright red color. This hybrid is endowed with resistance to major diseases that are typical for the crop in question. In addition, the variety bears fruit well when the soil moisture is insufficient.

Gift to the North is an early hybrid with fruits weighing up to 5 kg in closed ground, endowed with resistance to major diseases of melons

Crimstar

One of the popular super early harvest hybrids. Ripens within 56–60 days from the moment the seedlings are planted in the ground. The fruits have round shape with dark stripes, bright red flesh. Watermelon is highly resistant to anthracnose and white rot, which makes it unpretentious to temperature changes that are inherent in unheated greenhouses.

Super early variety with a ripening period of 56–60 days. Watermelon is resistant to anthracnose and white rot

An early ripening variety, which has a growing period from germination to ripening of about 80 days. Suitable for regions with little sunlight. The fruits have a thin skin of a dark green color and weigh 1–2.4 kg, the pulp is juicy and tender. The variety is resistant to fusarium.

Early ripening variety, suitable for regions with insufficient light, resistant to fusarium

Pink champagne

An early ripening hybrid with a growing season of 85–90 days. The fruits reach 7 kg, the skin is of medium thickness, bright green in color with characteristic light stripes, the flesh is pink with a sweet taste with a predominance of honey notes. The variety is unpretentious and resistant to high humidity.

Hybrid with large fruits up to 7 kg, unpretentious in cultivation and resistant to high humidity

Crimson Sweet

Early ripening variety (70–85 days). The fruits are oblong with a dark green skin and light stripes. The pulp is bright red, juicy, crispy, with a characteristic honey taste. The variety is resistant to diseases and pests.

A variety with early ripening, bright red and juicy pulp. Characterized by resistance to diseases and pests

Reviews from gardeners

Several years ago, my neighbors in the spring gave me watermelon seeds of the Ogonyok variety, because before that they had repeatedly treated me to this watermelon, which tasted very good with a thin rind and tender pulp, and very sweet, as if sprinkled with sugar. At first I planted the seeds in manured soil, and then received instructions from a neighbor to plant this watermelon in the sand, where the soil is dry and there are no groundwater, which is basically what I did. Caring for a watermelon was not very difficult, almost like caring for a pumpkin. I watered it only when it was very dry, mainly in the initial stage of growth, and after the watermelon gained strength, watering stopped. They cleanly weeded the weeds and hilled them up. Closer to autumn, fruits appeared that delighted us almost until the onset of frost. The children were especially happy with the watermelons; they gobbled them up on both cheeks. Therefore, I advise everyone who has their own garden and small children to be sure to plant the Ogonyok variety of watermelon: it is undemanding to the soil and climate, and brings joy to everyone - big and small, old and young.

vano288655

http://otzovik.com/review_2660307.html

Last year, Leader and Skorik were imprisoned in the Moscow Region. Skorik matured to 2.5 kg and was very sweet, but Leader, apparently, was frozen. Watermelons are cold in our region, so they had to be constantly kept under cover or in a greenhouse, providing additional lighting if possible. This year I’m going to try: Crimson Sweet, Gift of the Sun, Ogonyok, Photon and Sloth.

Victoria Lottar of England

http://forum.prihoz.ru/viewtopic.php?t=162

For middle zone The early variety Krimstar is perfect for Russia. Watermelons, of course, grow small, but the taste is not inferior to the imported ones, and maybe even superior.

Alexander Demkovich

http://chudo-ogorod.ru/forum/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=413

I tried pink champagne last year, there were only two or three watermelons on two bushes weighing around 5 kg, it bloomed and ripened before everyone else, but given year, as very hot, does not count for statistics.

Kostya

http://dacha.wcb.ru/index.php?showtopic=16656&st=285

Watermelon Crimson suite. These watermelons have unusually juicy pulp and are sweet in taste, without sourness, so I plant them every year and am satisfied with the quality of the seeds.

Hope

https://pomidorchik.com.ua/ovoshi/arbuz-krimson-svit/reviews/

Selecting and preparing a greenhouse or greenhouse for growing watermelons

Before you start growing watermelons indoors, you need to familiarize yourself with what materials a greenhouse can be made of for the following purposes:

• made of polycarbonate;
• from old window frames;
• from film.

A film greenhouse is the most common due to its affordable cost.

In addition to the choice of materials, a watermelon greenhouse has a number of requirements that it must meet:

• height should be 1.7–2 m;
• preparatory activities are carried out in the spring;
• when cultivating in the northern regions, they organize warm beds, which will avoid overcooling of the root system;
• for the convenience of temperature adjustment, additional heating sources are used;
• It is better to allocate a separate greenhouse for growing melons to create the most comfortable conditions.

In order for the watermelon not to experience a lack of light, the greenhouse must be installed in a place that is illuminated in the best possible way. You should avoid placing it near bushes, trees, and buildings. Since the northern regions are characterized by a lack of natural light, you have to resort to using additional sources in the form of lamps.

Some gardeners are of the opinion that the best greenhouse for growing watermelons is a design made of cellular polycarbonate. This opinion is due to the fact that the material can withstand heavy loads, retains heat, and transmits light well. Since watermelon is a climbing crop, the main condition for its cultivation is sufficient height. As the plants develop, they will become attached to the trellis, and if the height of the greenhouse structure is low, yields may suffer.

One of important points Before planting watermelons in closed ground, prepare the soil. First of all, you need to wait for the weather to become warm and stable: in the daytime the thermometer should not fall below +20˚С, at night - below +5˚С. When equipping the greenhouse with heating, the issue of warming the earth disappears by itself. The soil for watermelons should have an acidity within the pH range of 6.8–7, be fertile and well-drained. It's better if soil mixture will be prepared from components such as garden soil, humus and fine sand in a ratio of 3:3:4.

To determine the degree of acidity of the soil, you can use special strips. If the soil is alkaline, then manure, peat or compost are used to increase the acidity level. At acidic soil use limestone or dolomite flour for deoxidation.

Since watermelon prefers soils with an acidity pH of 6.8–7, it is necessary to bring the indicator to these values ​​​​by deoxidation or acidification

Watermelons are quite sensitive to fungal diseases. This suggests that in the spring the soil should be disinfected, and the greenhouse frame should be treated with copper sulfate or Bordeaux mixture. A solution of vitriol is prepared at the rate of 100 g per 10 liters of water. After this, the film, polycarbonate, and glass are washed (depending on the type of greenhouse). Then comes the turn of the soil. For processing, prepare a solution from copper sulfate at a concentration of 50 g of substance per 10 liters of water. Approximately 2 liters of product are used per 1 m² of soil. The procedure must be carried out at least 2 weeks before planting.

Before planting seedlings in the greenhouse, check the lighting, heating and watering systems. If any malfunctions are detected, they must be eliminated. Since watermelon is a heat-loving crop, all cracks need to be sealed. If the greenhouse structure is unheated, you need to prepare covering material in case of cold weather. As such, you can use plastic film, rags, thick paper. A week before planting, the greenhouse can be covered with black film, which will speed up the warming of the soil.

Planting watermelon in a greenhouse

Before planting watermelon seeds in a greenhouse, you need to prepare planting material. The procedure boils down to soaking and treating the seeds with potassium permanganate, which allows them to be disinfected and germinate. The rest of the planting technology comes down to the following steps:

1. Pre-form beds 1 m wide and long in accordance with the dimensions of the greenhouse.
2. A week before planting watermelon seeds, dig up the soil using a spade, add a bucket of humus or compost per 1 m², also half a bucket of sand and a 1 liter jar of ash. All components are lightly mixed with the surface layer of soil (10 cm).
3. Mark holes with a distance of 40–50 cm from each other. Water the bed well warm water(not lower than +25˚С) and plant two seeds per hole at a distance of 5–6 cm.
4. Planting holes after sowing are covered with trimmed plastic bottles. The emergence of seedlings is expected in 10 days.

Watermelons can be planted in closed ground not only with seeds, but also with seedlings. To do this, the seeds are first sown in plastic cups. After 3–5 true leaves appear, the seedlings are considered ready for planting in the greenhouse.

Video: planting watermelons in closed ground

Upon disembarkation watermelon seedlings The prepared holes are watered abundantly, the plants are transferred from the cups along with the earthen ball and embedded in the ground so that a small hill is formed around the stem above the surface of the bed. If a greenhouse without additional heating is used, the seedlings are covered with film until they are accepted.

Watermelon care

It is not enough to plant a watermelon; it is important to grow it correctly, that is, to provide appropriate care. Let us consider in detail what needs to be done and how.

Humidity and watering

Despite the fact that the melon crop in question tolerates a lack of moisture well, it still needs watering. It is worth taking into account that the success of a good harvest directly depends on the amount of moisture in the soil. Watering is done 3-4 times a week. The water consumption per hole should be about 7 liters, and it should be avoided from getting into the core of the plant, as well as onto the foliage. After the formation of buds and at the beginning of flowering, the number of waterings should be reduced to 2 times a week, at the same rate. It is also worth considering that for irrigation it is necessary to use warm water(about +20˚С), and perform the procedure in the morning.

Water the watermelon several times a week, and only with warm water, avoiding getting into the core of the plant.

You can water the plants in the greenhouse from a bucket, with a watering can or by drip. The first two options are quite labor-intensive, so preference should be given to moisturizing with drip irrigation. In addition, this method is considered the most effective, since moisture gets where it is needed, namely in the root zone. Thus, the plants will always receive the required amount of moisture. It is convenient to apply fertilizers along with drip irrigation.

Despite the fact that watermelons are considered quite drought-resistant plants, at the same time, they do not tolerate humid air well.

With the help of drip irrigation, you can significantly facilitate the irrigation of watermelon bushes and at the same time apply the necessary fertilizing

In order for watermelon bushes to feel comfortable, the humidity level in greenhouse conditions must be maintained within 50%, and soil moisture within 60–70%.

Video: how to properly water a watermelon in a greenhouse

Temperature

After the watermelon seeds are planted in the greenhouse, the most acceptable temperature for germination will be +14˚C. Lower rates will lead to the fact that seeds, when left in the soil for a long time, will lose the supply of nutrients that are necessary for growth and development. As a result, the vegetative properties of the plant will be practically lost.

For proper development of the watermelon root system, the soil temperature should not be less than +25˚C. If this indicator is met, it will be possible to achieve best development roots, which will ensure normal growth, vegetation and good taste of the fruit. Maintenance temperature regime during the growing season is no less important than the development of the underground part of the plant.

At abundant flowering the temperature should be at +18˚С and above. At night, the indicator should not be lower than +15˚С. If the temperature exceeds +30˚С, it is necessary to ensure ventilation of the room. Compliance with these regimes will achieve decent harvest and complete ripening of the fruit.

Lighting

Each region has its own length of daylight hours. In order for a watermelon to develop and ripen properly, it needs to be provided with 10 hours of daylight. If natural conditions do not allow this, they resort to the use of lamps that are installed along the entire perimeter of the greenhouse. Their number and power are calculated based on the area where the cultivation takes place. Otherwise, the lack of light will lead to stretching and weakening of the watermelon bushes. To ensure that plants are illuminated evenly, it is recommended to install vertical trellises.

Top dressing

There is no single option for fertilizing, since each gardener adheres to his own method of applying fertilizers, considering it the most correct. In most cases, there is not always enough space in the greenhouse, which simply hinders the development of roots in plants. To provide plantings required quantity nutrients during summer period you will have to fertilize the watermelon several times:

1. The first time fertilizing is applied two weeks after planting the crop in the ground. Mineral components such as superphosphate, urea (10 g per 1 bush), as well as wood ash (1 tbsp per 1 bush) are used as nutrients.
2. Watermelon is fed with organic matter every three weeks. For fertilizer use mullein infusion (1:10) or chicken manure(1:20). This infusion is additionally diluted 1:5 with water and 2–3 liters are poured under each bush.

Watermelon is fed several times as it grows, for which both mineral and organic fertilizers are used.

Some gardeners make watermelon care easier by filling the hole nutrients when planting a plant. To do this, add half a bucket of humus and the same amount of sand, 1 tbsp. l. urea, double superphosphate and potassium sulfate, after which all components are thoroughly mixed. This mixture will provide the plants with the necessary nutrition throughout the summer.

Pollination

60 days after planting, watermelon bushes begin to bloom. The male flowers appear first, and after 10 days the female flowers appear. It is during this period that it is important to perform pollination. It is not always possible to attract insects to the greenhouse, especially in the northern regions. Therefore, you have to carry out the procedure manually. The essence of the process is that male flower they tear it off the stem and apply it to the female (to the stamens). Male and female flowers differ in appearance: the female one is smaller in size and initially you can see a small ovary on it. If pollination is successful, the ovary will develop and gradually bend downward. Otherwise, the flower will stretch upward.

Male and female flowers differ in appearance: the female one is smaller in size and initially you can see a small ovary on it

Garter

If in open ground a watermelon spreads along the ground, then in greenhouse conditions the crop is grown, as a rule, vertically due to limited space. This indicates the need to tie up both the watermelon lashes and the fruits themselves. For these purposes, special trellises are used, which are placed along the length of the greenhouse.

The trellis can be made in the form of a wire, fixed and tensioned in the upper part of the greenhouse structure. A twine or cord is tied to the wire, on which the plant will subsequently be attached.

Tying the stem allows you to direct the growth of the plant upward, which will subsequently facilitate the formation and care of the watermelon (melon is given as an example)

They resort to tying when the vines reach a length of 1 m, although some gardeners begin tying to the trellis when the stem is 35 cm long. Initially, the shoots are laid on the ground and, having retreated 0.5 m from the root, the stem is bent to the ground, covered with a layer of earth. Thus, the plant will receive additional nutrition after the formation of new roots. When the fruits reach the size of a large apple, they also need to be attached to a trellis to avoid damage to the vine under the heavy weight.

To avoid damage to the lashes, watermelon fruits must be tied up

There are many options for tying, and they depend both on the size of the greenhouse structure and on available materials. Let's look at the most common methods of tying fruits:

• hanging in nets that are attached to the trellis;
• manually fastening the fruits to the trellis as they increase in size;
• use of shelves, stands for watermelons;
• combining trellises with shelves.

Video: when to tie up watermelon fruits

Shaping and pinching

Most in a simple way The formation of a watermelon bush in closed ground is the formation of a single stem. In this case, the main lash is directed upward along the rope, and the side shoots are removed. Fruit formation occurs on the main stem. 1–4 fruits are left on one bush, depending on the size and region of cultivation, the rest are removed. In addition, pinching is performed main lash, departing from the upper fruit 5 leaves.

When forming a watermelon bush, you can use a single stem pattern, when the fruits are formed on the main shoot

There is also a more labor-intensive method of plant formation - vertical with fruiting on second-order side shoots. The difficulty is that you need to pay attention to the growing stepsons and understand what flowers are on them, then wait for the ovaries to appear and pinch them.

The stepson is a shoot that developed from the leaf sinus.

The stepson is a shoot that developed from the axil of a leaf (for example, a tomato bush)

Despite the complexity of the formation procedure, it is the second option that ensures the best fruiting of most varieties. Compared to hybrids, the ovaries of varietal watermelons are formed on the side shoots. Formation consists of the following steps:

1. The main shoot is tied to a trellis and wrapped around a rope every day.
2. The two lower stepsons are removed or pinched.
3. Shoots on which female flowers have not formed are removed by pruning or plucking.
4. Stems with female flowers are pinched by removing 2–3 leaves from them.
5. No more than five fruits weighing about 1 kg are left on one bush. If the variety is large-fruited, then no more than two fruits. The rest must be removed.
6. The main stem is pinched, for which 5 leaves are removed from the upper fruit.

When forming a watermelon, fruits can develop on both the main and lateral shoots, depending on the scheme used

Pinching the lashes is performed only when it is noticeable that the ovaries are growing. A common occurrence is the drying and falling of fruits the size of a walnut.

Video: forming watermelons in a greenhouse

Diseases and pests of watermelons in a greenhouse

Watermelons in greenhouse conditions, as well as in open ground, are exposed to diseases and pests.

Diseases

Growing melons, especially with insufficient experience, is inextricably linked with partial losses caused by the appearance of a particular disease. The most common are anthracnose, powdery mildew, white and gray rot, fusarium wilt, etc.

The disease appears as brown spots on leaves and other parts of the plant. Gradually their size increases, and the affected areas dry out. If fruits have already formed on the bush, they begin to rot and the plant itself begins to die. The main causes of this disease are:

• heat;
• poor ventilation;
• insufficient lighting;
• high soil moisture.

When all causes are eliminated, the development of anthracnose stops.

The disease appears as brown spots on leaves and other parts of the plant.

The appearance of powdery mildew can be judged by the presence of white, gray or pink coating on watermelon foliage. Then the leaves wilt and dry out. If there are mature fruits on the bush, then powdery mildew is not scary for them. Young fetuses, on the contrary, are not allowed to develop normally. Ideal conditions for the spread of the disease - high humidity and temperature within + 25˚С.

To combat, the bushes must be treated with copper oxychloride (90%). The procedure should be repeated 3 times every 7 days. Colloidal sulfur can also be used. To do this, dilute 50 g of the substance in 10 liters of water, after which the beds are watered.

At powdery mildew a white, gray or pink coating appears on the leaves of the plant, after which the foliage withers and dries out

The disease manifests itself in the form of wilting and oppression of plants. May be present on individual stems. Affected bushes are characterized by small leaves and fruits that may not form at all.

The disease is caused by:

• plant weakness;
• waterlogging of the soil;
• growing melons and melons in one place;
• decrease in soil temperature less than +17˚С.

As control and preventive measures, it is necessary to remove and destroy all dried residues, water the plants with a solution based on fungicides, for example, Previkur 607 SL.

The disease manifests itself in the form of wilting and oppression of plants. Affected bushes are characterized by small leaves and fruits.

The disease is caused by harmful colonies of fungi. At first the bush becomes watery, after which it dries out. A white spot appears at the site of the lesion. Favorable conditions contribute to the preservation of fungal colonies in the ground for several years. Ideal conditions are at a temperature of about +15˚С and high humidity. In addition, the risk of the disease increases when watering with cold water.

To avoid the occurrence and development of the disease, it is necessary to observe crop rotation, irrigate with warm water, remove plant residues after harvesting, and treat the greenhouse. When plants are infected with a fungus, it is necessary to remove and destroy the rotten areas, and sprinkle the affected areas with coal or lime. It is possible to treat the lesions with a 0.5% solution of copper sulfate.

White spots appear on affected plants. At first the bush becomes watery, and then dries out.

The signs and conditions for the appearance of the disease are similar to white rot. Fluffy mycelium appears on the affected areas. Control measures are limited to removing damaged parts of the plant. Watering can be done only after clearing the bush of diseased areas. For spraying, you can use a solution of zinc sulfate (1 g), urea (10 g) and copper sulfate (2 g), diluted in 10 liters of water.

Gray rot affects all parts of the plant, often the disease spreads from the tops of shoots and young leaves

One of the common diseases not only of watermelons, but also of all melon crops. Round, angular or shapeless spots appear on the leaves. At first, the stain becomes brown, and then dries out and disintegrates. On fruits the disease can be recognized by spots Brown with an oily structure. Gradually, rot penetrates into the fruit, making it unfit for consumption.

The causative agent of the disease can be located both on equipment and on the greenhouse structure. The pathogen spreads during high humidity and watering. You need to fight like this:

• loosening the soil;
• timely feeding;
• regular watering with warm water;
• soil disinfection and equipment treatment.

Brown spots of various shapes appear on the foliage, after which they dry out and fall apart, and the fruit itself is also damaged

Pests

Pests can cause no less damage to the watermelon crop in closed ground. To respond in a timely manner, you need to be able to distinguish between them.

One of the most common insects that settles on melons and melons. The pest is easy to detect on plant stems by its yellow and black-green color. Flowers and ovaries are affected by insects, and the juice is sucked out of the stem. Leaves on damaged plants curl. To combat, it is necessary to completely remove diseased shoots. In addition, the plants are treated with a solution based on soap and ash, for which 1 tbsp is dissolved in 8 liters of water. l. laundry soap and add 1 kg of ash. It is possible to use insecticides, for example, Actellik, Decis.

It is impossible not to notice aphids on a watermelon, since the plant is often covered with these insects

Insects destroy both the seeds and the root system. If the plant is not strong enough, then after being attacked by a pest it dies quite quickly. For control and prevention purposes, gardeners use insecticides, for example, Fentiuram. Before the crop blooms, about three treatments are carried out.

Sprout fly larvae damage both seeds and the root system of plants

The pest appears almost immediately after planting the seedlings. You can find it on back side leaf along the web that appears after the plant is infected. Damaged leaves dry out and lose color. IN for preventive purposes plants must be constantly inspected, and if infected leaves are found, they must be removed and burned. When mite foci are identified, they resort to treatment with Fufanon, Actofit, Neoron, which are chemical preparations. However, you can also use biological agents, for example, Fitoverm.

Spider mites can be detected by the characteristic web on the back of the leaf.

Watermelon harvest

The watermelon harvest begins from mid to late August. The following signs indicate that the fruits are fully ripe:

• the stalk of the watermelon begins to dry out;
• the surface of the fruit acquires a bright pattern;
• When you tap the watermelon, you should hear a dull sound.

During harvesting, fruits must be removed from the vines carefully to avoid mechanical damage. Otherwise, the shelf life of watermelon is greatly reduced.

Video: how to determine the ripeness of a watermelon

When growing in a greenhouse, watermelon requires a lot of care, because you need to properly feed, shape, and tie up the plant. However, the agricultural technology for growing this crop will gradually become simple and understandable, which will make it possible to reduce errors to a minimum and achieve a decent harvest.

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