Ethiopian calla (Calla aethiopica), or Ethiopian Zantedeschia (Zantedeschia aethiopica), belongs to the genus Calla, family Araceae. In its natural habitat, it can be found in the swampy areas of South Africa.
This is a perennial herbaceous evergreen rhizomatous plant up to 1 meter high. Large green basal leaves are collected in small rosettes. The leaf blade, up to 50 cm long and up to 20 cm wide, is thyroid-cordate, with pronounced, slightly recessed veins. Approximately the same length and thick juicy petiole.
Bright yellow tiny flowers are collected in a 10-centimeter inflorescence-cob, protruding from a rosette of leaves on a long peduncle, and “wrapped” with a funnel-shaped bract-like leaf. This cover of the Ethiopian calla is smooth, white, with an elongated tip and can reach a length of 25 cm. Flowering occurs in late winter or early spring and lasts about a month.
Varieties of Ethiopian calla lilies
In addition to the specific form of the Ethiopian calla lily, its numerous varieties, differing in the size of the leaves and the color of the cover and flowers, have become widespread. Some of them can be noted:
“Green Goddess” is a variety with a two-color blanket: the center of the “funnel” is white, and the elongated outer part is green, matching the color of the leaves.
“Red Desire” is a variety with a red inflorescence-cob and a white spathe.
“Pink Mist” - the spadix and the base are pink.
“White Sail” - a feature of the variety is a very wide inflorescence-cob.
Caring for Ethiopian calla lilies at home
In indoor culture, Ethiopian calla lilies are quite unpretentious. She needs very little to feel good.
Lighting. Throughout the year, the plant needs bright, diffused light and long daylight hours, up to 12 - 14 hours. Therefore in winter time The plant needs additional lighting with phytolamps.
The best choice when placing calla lilies in a room would be windows in the eastern and western directions. On southern windows it will have to be shaded from the scorching midday rays.
Temperature. In summer, during the dormant period, and in winter, during flowering, the plant prefers moderate temperatures, around 18 – 20 °C. At the beginning of the growing season, it is desirable to lower the temperature to 16 °C, but at lower temperatures, calla lilies may get sick. And it can’t stand Zantedes temperature changes at all, so drafts are contraindicated for it.
Watering. At first active growth Calla lilies are watered sparingly, making sure that earthen lump didn't dry out. As soon as the plant blooms, increase watering. During this period, it is desirable that the ground is always slightly moist, but not wet. After flowering, watering is reduced, and after some time it is almost completely stopped, leaving the plant for 1.5 - 2 months almost without water. During this period, some of the calla leaves die off.
For irrigation use soft, well-settled water at room temperature.
Air humidity. Ethiopian calla loves high humidity air, for which the leaves are sprayed daily and periodically rinsed under warm shower. It is advisable to place the plant itself on a tray with wet expanded clay or place a container of water next to it.
The soil. Calla lilies are not particularly picky about soil composition. The main thing is that the soil is nutritious, air- and moisture-permeable. Neutral is quite suitable for growing it. universal primer for beautiful bloomers indoor plants. If you want to cook soil mixture on your own, then experienced flower growers It is recommended to take for it one part each of turf, leaf, peat, humus soil and sand.
Calla lilies are also suitable for growing hydroponically.
Fertilizers. During the period of active growth and flowering, zantedeschia is fed once every two weeks with a solution of liquid fertilizers for beautifully flowering indoor plants. In this case, you should choose a composition of the nutrient mixture that contains a minimum of nitrogen, since it provokes the powerful development of green mass to the detriment of flowering, and large share phosphorus, necessary for the formation of flowers.
Transfer. Regardless of the age of the plant, it requires annual replanting. After the end of the dormant period, in July - August, it is removed from the old substrate, cleaned of dry leaves and planted in a fresh earthen mixture in the same pot. In this case, it is necessary to ensure that the root collar is not buried in the soil.
The pots for planting are chosen to be small so that there is not too much room for the roots in them.
Reproduction. The main method of propagation of Ethiopian calla lilies is the separation of rhizomatous side shoots during transplantation. The cut young plants are dried for 1 - 2 days and then planted in separate pots.
It can also be propagated by seeds, but only if they are freshly harvested.
Diseases. The main cause of disease is problems associated with improper care. And most common mistake, which gardeners allow - abundant watering during dormancy. Low summer temperatures are also contraindicated for the plant.
If calla lilies do not bloom, this may be the result of a pot that is too small, lack of light, lack of a dormant period, or the wrong fertilizer.
Pests. Ethiopian calla lilies are rarely attacked by pests, but if infested, the most likely guest will be spider mites. At the first sign of its appearance, it is necessary to thoroughly rinse the leaves of the plant under a warm shower. If necessary, repeat this procedure.
Carefully! Calla lily juice contains calcium oxalates, which can cause poisoning if they come into contact with the mucous membrane or esophagus.
According to the Horoscope to Zodiac sign Leo (July 23 - August 23) Flower astrologers include the following plants: acalypha bristly; aphelandra protruding; Calceolaria hybrid; camellia japonica; gardenia jasmine; impatiens (impatiens): Waller, Holst, Peters, linearifolia, Hawker; mimosa bashful; royal pelargonium; Chinese rose; ; Zantedeschia ethiopica (calla lily).
IN Lately began to gain increasing popularity among connoisseurs of indoor flowering and decorative foliage crops Zantedeschia ethiopica (Zantedeschia aethiopica). This plant has many names: Ethiopian calla (Calla aethiopica), Richardia africanica ( Richardia africana), calligraphy etc. It is included in genus Zantedeschia Spreng ., including 8 types.
Zantedeschia came to us from the tropics of South Africa, where it grows on damp, well-lit river banks and wetlands, reaching truly impressive sizes there. It is considered a close relative of the marsh whitefly and calamus that live in our area. In appearance, this plant is extremely similar to Alocasia, which is widespread in floral practice and belongs to the same Araceae family.
Types and varieties of calla lilies
Thanks to the exceptional grace and severity of the lines, the exquisite (ideally white) bedspread, breeders in the last half century have paid a lot of attention to this flower culture. They created varieties for open ground (southern regions), and for indoor use(in the conditions of our North-West). By the way, New Zealand is called the world leader in the selection and production of calla lilies intended for cutting, as well as in the production of its tubers.
In addition to varieties Zantedeschi Ethiopian(with a white cover) calla lilies are also cultivated in warmer latitudes Elliott ( Z. elliottiana Engl.) with a yellow blanket of inflorescences and calla lilies Remani ( Z. rehmanii Engl.) with a pink blanket and spotted leaves. Interspecific hybrids have cream and orange colored spathes; Through the efforts of breeders, pink shades have even been brought to carmine and lilac. Very interesting varieties, characterized by fragrant flowers, unfortunately, in retail and greenhouse conditions are rare.
The varieties most often offered for indoor keeping are (the length of the peduncles, the length of the bedspread and the color are indicated in brackets): Little Jam (Little Ge)(up to 50 cm, 5-8, white) , Nikolai (Nikolai) (up to 150, 12-15, white, green at the base), Pearl von Zweibrücken (Perle von Zweibrucken) (up to 90, light yellow-green at the base), Schöne Zweibrückerin (Schone von Zweibrucken) (more than 100, blanket 15 cm in diameter, dark yellow at the base), Pearl von Stuttgart (Perle von Stuttgart) (up to 70 cm). Zantedeschia Elliott, with its yellow spathe and spotted leaves, is considered to be suitable only for growing in greenhouses and greenhouses.
To plant calla lilies, an evergreen semi-marsh plant, a gardener will need, first of all, a fairly spacious room (to put it simply, a small greenhouse is preferable). A small apartment, which is quite typical for the conditions of our city, is very unsuitable for this purpose.
At the same time, smaller varieties of Ethiopian Zantedeschia are known, but its knobby rhizomes will still require a container of decent volume, installed on a wide and deep tray. The plant also really needed high humidity air, rest period and additional lighting. So, you must admit, this plant is not very suitable for a small living room (especially a bedroom).
Calla lilies have cord-like, fleshy roots that extend from a succulent tuber. Its large (up to 60-80 cm) wide shiny leaves, arrow-shaped or heart-shaped, are located on long (15-30 cm) basal delicate bright green juicy petioles.
This plant looks wonderful when it has a peculiar large snow-white flower, blooming at the end of a high arrow. Although in reality it is not a flower, but a kind of asymmetrical sheath of white or yellowish color and a diameter of 10-15 cm on a yellow elongated inflorescence - a spadix, consisting of very small inconspicuous flowers with a delicate smell, a little reminiscent of vanilla.
IN room conditions Zantedeschia ethiopica usually blooms in the second half of winter(quite rarely - from October) to May (but more often in spring - to April) for 1.5-2 months (in warm greenhouses usually in winter); Cut flowers can last the same amount of time. The appearance of an arrow is a sign of the beginning of new growth (when wintering in warm room it is usually celebrated in January-February, later in cool weather); at this time the plant is replanted, creating a temperature of at least 15°C.
Blooming calla lilies every week feed a solution of mineral fertilizer, where phosphorus and potassium predominate. Excess nitrogen causes rapid growth of leaves to the detriment of flower development. If fruits set, it is better to remove them so as not to deplete the plants. By the way, in its homeland its flowering, as a rule, coincides with a short period of rain.
Calla lilies begin to gradually return to active life in August. After a good rest, it develops powerful leaves and then blooms again.
For successful development, it is better for the plant to choose a sufficiently light, but it is also possible to have a semi-shaded room, which must be protected from sun rays, moderately cool: it develops well at 10...12°C, for example, on a north-facing window. In winter, the optimal temperature is even 8...10°C with very moderate watering.
But during flowering the temperature is desirable up to 14...16°C (in a warmer room the quality of flowers decreases). During this period, calla lilies are watered abundantly and their foliage is often sprayed. To increase the humidity of the soil and surrounding air, experienced gardeners place the pot with the plant in a deep tray, always filled with water. As the plant ages, it develops a herbaceous trunk and produces larger flowers.
After the end of flowering, calla lilies begin to rest period. It falls between mid-May and July. At this time, the leaves turn yellow and plant growth stops, although the roots continue to develop. Watering is stopped, but if possible, it is advisable to take it out to Fresh air(possible until autumn). This can be a balcony or loggia, but with moderate heat, without piercing winds and direct sunlight.
Calla Reproduction
During this period you can begin to transplantation or reproduction. The transplanted flower needs a room with a temperature of at least 15°C. After the plant has rooted, watering is increased and gradually brought to abundant watering.
Calla lilies are propagated quite easily and quickly (especially if the plant is cultivated in large pots) with the help of sufficiently tall offspring. They are nodules with small, weak leaves, which still need to be removed, as they weaken the tubers and delay further flowering of the plants. These nodules are formed in large quantities around the plant throughout the year.
The queen cells are carefully broken out from the bare rhizomes" kids"0.5-1.5 cm thick, which are placed for growing - each in a separate container. You can get 12-25 of them from an adult plant. It is better to do this in a small greenhouse (the air temperature should be approximately 14-16 ° C and humidity 80-85%). high temperature and lack of light, the leaves of young calla lilies stretch out, break easily, acquire a light green color, and subsequently the number of flowers decreases sharply. At good conditions next spring they are able to bloom.
Sometimes whole for reproduction root tubers are divided into several parts so that there is one kidney for each, but two are better. According to some flower growers, it is better to break them carefully than to cut them with a knife. Bare broken areas are sprinkled with coal (or treated with a solution of potassium permanganate) and dried for 3-4 days before planting.
The plant requires shallow landing: The rhizome should be slightly covered with soil. On initial stage the soil substrate with the “divisions” is poorly moistened. Watering is increased only with the appearance of the first shoots. Sometimes, when transplanting, parts of tubers break off, which remain in the soil and produce after a period of very unexpected places small sprouts. With normal care, such a small piece - a "division" with one developed bud - produces a flower within a year.
Young calla blooms on next year , but with the beginning of flowering it is periodically reinforced with foliar feeding - solutions of microelements (boron, zinc, molybdenum, manganese, potassium iodide, copper) and often sprayed with clean water.
Calla can be propagate by seeds, which are sown immediately after harvest. Until emergence, the temperature is maintained at about 20°C. When picking, each plant is transferred to a separate container. The following year, the seedlings are given a dormant period for two summer months.
At the time of buying a healthy tuber must be elastic and must have live apical buds with light yellowish and not wrinkled skin in the upper part. Too dried (unsuitable for propagation) tubers look wrinkled, with buds without signs of living tissue and skin that has turned gray over the entire surface. Before planting, the tubers can be stored for some time in the refrigerator (vegetable compartment).
In March(but no later than April) them the peace is interrupted and planted, choosing a sufficiently spacious container for this: this culture does not like cramped containers, which is why it may not bloom. In addition, one must keep in mind that from a small nodule in appearance a whole thicket of half-meter-long leaves can appear. Soil substrate must be rich nutrients(turf, leaf soil, compost - 1:1:1), add a tablespoon of superphosphate to 3 liters of the mixture. The tuber is planted to a depth of at least 10 cm, since shallower planting leads to lodging of the leaves.
The pot is placed on a wide and deep tray. To bring the culture closer to natural conditions, you can pour water into this pan, maintaining its constant level at a height of 5-7 cm.
The first to emerge from the soil are scale-like leaves. They begin to be sprayed regularly, otherwise the tips will dry out, which gives the plants a rather untidy appearance, and flowering may also be delayed. Also begin water feeding mineral fertilizers. At the beginning of the season, fertilizing with nitrogen is preferable, and during flowering - with phosphorus and potassium fertilizers.
For long-term maintenance the soil substrate must be very nutritious(slightly acidic, rich in humus), therefore its composition includes humus, turf and peat soil(in proportion 2:1:1); It would be ideal to add one part of the swamp land here. Some gardeners add a little manure or compost to the soil.
Experienced flower growers specializing in this group of plants recommend keeping in mind when purchasing them greater variability in the color of the bedspread. They warn that its color may fade in low light, resulting in a deep yellow or pink color, as happens in photographs in advertising brochures, is often impossible (even in a sufficiently lit place).
It should also be taken into account that all (without exception) varieties the color of the spathe turns green after pollination, and the original one (white or pink) disappears. Such a transition is a vital necessity for the plant, since it must use the spathe as an additional source of photosynthesis products (for successful seed ripening.). But experts urge you not to be upset: different shades of color will still create a pleasant harmony for the eyes.
Note that Calla lilies' leaves are not devoid of decorativeness. In some varieties, the leaf blades are decorated with silver-white or pink translucent spots that create unusual game light if you place the plants against the sun. The leaves of only a number of varieties of calla Remani are less attractive (with a wedge-shaped base and without spots). Based on the condition of the leaves of his plant, as if using a living barometer, the gardener can monitor changes in pressure: when it decreases (i.e., before rain), droplets of water appear at the tips of the leaves and inflorescence covers.
In greenhouses, calla lilies are kept in pots and in the ground.(under optimal conditions for her, she lives up to 10 years), but in last decade it began to be bred exclusively for first-class cutting: flowers can be stored in a vase in cut form for up to 1.5-2 months, if the water is replaced weekly and the petiole is trimmed by 0.5 cm each time.
If the indoor air is too dry, it can settle on the plant. spider mite . It is also possible that aphids.
A. Lazarev, Candidate of Biological Sciences, senior Researcher All-Russian Research Institute of Plant Protection
For amateurs indoor flowers Ethiopian calla lily is very popular. A plant from the araceae family is a relative of calamus. In nature there are up to 6 different species. They are all very attractive and have unusual qualities.
Description
South Africa is considered the birthplace of these callas. Magnificent flowers are a real decoration for apartments and greenhouses and look great in bouquets. The plant is large, with wide, succulent and shiny leaves, which are also bright green in color. They are located on long basal petioles and collected in rosettes. The flower itself has an original structure. It is formed at the end of a towering arrow and is a yellow inflorescence-cob wrapped in a white blanket. Its smell is very faint and resembles vanilla.
Flowering usually begins in the second half of winter and lasts for 1.5-2 months. Under different names Ethiopian calla is known - zantedeschia, richardia, calla lily. The tuberous rhizome produces numerous suckers every year, which must be removed so that they do not delay flowering.
Growing conditions
Calla lilies feel best in a spacious and bright room. Under conditions as close as possible to natural ones, the plant will delight with its beauty long time. The container for these flowers needs to be voluminous, with a fairly deep tray. The Ethiopian calla is not afraid of the sun's rays, but it must be protected from drafts. It is very important to follow the basic rules of growing - maintaining required temperature, lighting, humidity, timely feeding.
Soil requirements
Under natural conditions, callas prefer damp, swampy areas. This must be taken into account when preparing the soil mixture for planting, adding river silt to it and placing a deep tray under the pot (it must contain a layer of water of at least 5 cm). If you are counting on maintaining the plant for many years, it is necessary that the substrate is slightly acidic and rich in nutrients. It should contain clay-turf and peat soil, humus, sand (all in the ratio 1:1:1:0.5). It is very good if it is possible to add a little swamp substrate or river silt. Ethiopian domestic calla grows well in clean peat. Some gardeners use manure or compost to prepare the soil mixture.
Landing
In March, spacious pots are prepared - for 1 tuber the capacity should be at least 3 liters. A soil mixture is poured into them with superphosphate added to it (1 tablespoon for every 3 liters of substrate). A drainage layer must be poured onto the bottom.
Tubers intended for planting must be healthy. This is evidenced by their elasticity, light yellow color and the presence of living apical buds. Overdried gray tubers with wrinkled skin are not suitable. Existing areas of rot or growths are carefully scraped off with a sharp knife.
Before planting, certain preparatory work. For 2-3 weeks, the tubers are transferred to a warm place with good lighting. Then immerse for 15 minutes in a weak solution of potassium permanganate, after which it is dried. This will help protect the flowers from rotting and damage by pests, from which Ethiopian calla often suffers.
The tubers are planted shallowly - a maximum of 10 cm - and slightly moistened. The pots are placed where it is warm and there are no drafts.
Watering
In the first 2 weeks, the plant does not need much moisture. Later they switch to abundant watering. Use soft, settled water. During the flowering period, additional moisture is required, so Zantedeschia leaves are sprayed with a spray bottle and bathed in the shower. It is also necessary to ensure that there is always water in the pan.
For a native of tropical Africa, the humidity in the room should be at least 55%. If this condition is met, the Ethiopian calla will delight you not only with large flowers, but also with beautiful greenery. Caring for the plant involves abundant watering only during leaf development and flowering. From the moment the rest period begins, they are reduced, then stopped altogether for 1.5-2 months and gradually resumed again. This phase in plant development usually lasts from autumn to February.
Temperature and lighting
It is advisable that the room for growing calla lilies be light and spacious. Direct sunlight is harmful to the plant. It's better if the light is a little diffused. A flower pot can be placed on a north or east window. Ethiopian white calla grows well even in artificial lighting, the main thing is that it is chosen correctly, otherwise the plant may not bloom. Daylight hours should last 10-12 hours.
The temperature in the room where zantedeschia grows plays an important role. It may fluctuate depending on the phase of development of calla lilies. During flowering, it is necessary to maintain the temperature within 15-18⁰C. Increasing it even by 2 degrees will lead to a decrease in the quality of flowers. During the dormant period, it is recommended to remove callas in a room where the temperature is from 8 to 10⁰C.
Top dressing
Fertilizers begin to be applied when the first leaves appear. Combines both root and foliar feeding. Mineral and organic fertilizers Used on average 2 times a month. At the beginning, at the stage of plant development, it is mainly nitrogen fertilizers. During the flowering period, more phosphorus and potassium are needed. You can use conventional complexes containing these elements. Long-lasting and more beautiful flowering largely depends on them. Ethiopian calla appearance signals a lack of a particular nutrient. With a lack of nitrogen, the leaves become dull, losing their luster. Potassium deficiency is expressed in raising their pointed tips upward.
When performing foliar feeding, it is very important that droplets of the solution do not fall on the white cover of the flower. This may lead to loss of its decorative effect. Periodically replacing upper layer substrate, you can do without replanting the plant. At a time when the Ethiopian calla blooms, home care also allows for the introduction of fertilizing in the form of tea leaves, egg shells, and fruit peels.
Caring for the plant during the dormant period
At the end of flowering, the growth of calla lilies stops, but the roots continue to develop. This period usually lasts from May to July. Until autumn, the plant can be placed on a balcony or loggia, where piercing winds do not penetrate and it is possible to shelter from the sun. Neither watering nor fertilizing is done at this time.
You can put callas into a state of deep dormancy by completely removing the leaves and placing them in the refrigerator, cellar or any other place where the temperature is within 3-5⁰C.
Reproduction
It can be produced either by suckers or by seeds. The first method is much simpler, which is why gardeners most often use it. Offshoots are small nodules that form around the main one in large numbers (sometimes there are up to 25 of them). They have to be removed in any case so as not to delay the development of the plant. The tubers are separated carefully so as not to damage the roots on them, and planted in prepared containers filled with substrate. It is obtained by mixing 2 parts of turf soil and one each of peat, leaf and sand. Then the pots are placed in a room with a temperature of +12-16⁰C and a humidity of at least 80%. There must be good lighting, because otherwise the plants become stretched, the leaves lose their bright color, and the quality of flowering may suffer in the future.
To increase the quantity planting material the offspring can be divided in half so that at least one bud remains on each. The fracture site is treated with a weak solution of potassium permanganate or sprinkled with charcoal.
Ethiopian calla lilies also reproduce using seeds. This method is used mainly by breeders, because it allows you to preserve varietal characteristics plants. Only fresh seeds are taken for planting. They are soaked for 6 hours in a special solution that stimulates development. After this, lay it out on a damp cloth, covering it with the other end on top, and place it in a warm place for 7 days. As soon as the seeds germinate, they are sown in the ground. They germinate at a temperature of 20⁰C. The emerging inputs dive into separate containers.
Diseases and pests
Ethiopians mainly suffer from fungal and infectious diseases carried out without following the rules of agricultural technology - the main reasons for their occurrence. Overmoistening of the soil and excess nitrogenous fertilizers usually lead to fungal infection of the plant. At the first sign of this, it is necessary to stop watering, replace the soil and treat the flower with fungicides.
It is most important to prevent such diseases, because getting rid of some of them can be very difficult. Prevention consists of disinfecting tubers, removing parts of the plant with the slightest signs of disease.
Of the insect pests for calla lilies, the greatest danger is spider mites and aphids. To combat them, it is recommended to spray the plant with special preparations (Fitoverm, Vertimek) and a soap solution.
At proper care Ethiopian calla lilies can become a real home decoration. Photos of these amazing flowers confirm the fact that, with very little effort, you can grow such beauty in your home.
Zantedeschia or Calla belongs to the Araceae family. Its homeland is the humid regions of Africa and South America. The genus is named after the friend of the scientist who discovered it.
These plants are grown both in gardens and indoors, and beautiful flowers Calla lilies are actually a leaf that will grow around the flower.
Varieties of calla lilies
The genus includes only 8 species, and only 3 are cultivated.
This is a white zantedeschia that produces very tall stems with flowers. Unlike other species, it has a root, not a bulb.
This is a relatively low calla lily (about 65 cm) with a pink “flower”. The root system is represented by a tuber. In autumn, the leaves fall from the flower and a period of calm begins.
It is also not a very tall species, reaching half a meter in height. This calla lily has both a flower and a blanket around it of a bright yellow color.
It is a mixture of plants of a certain variety, the flowers of which will have different colors.
Callas planting and care in open ground
This flower needs some care, so before planting you need to learn how to care for Zantedeschia.
To grow in the garden, calla lilies are planted in May. Before planting, the roots or tubers should be inspected and, if necessary, cleaned of rotten areas, and the cuts should be smeared with brilliant green; they should also be dipped in a solution of potassium permanganate for 30 minutes.
The planting area needs to be well dug up and fertilized with mineral fertilizer, the amount of fertilizer is approximately 30 grams per 1 m2. Next, planting is done to a depth of no more than 10 cm, the distance between the bulbs is about 40 cm. Water the soil with the planted zantedeschia abundantly. There is no need to water for the next 15 days; the plants will have enough moisture after planting. Shoots, most likely, will not be quick - from two weeks to a month.
Watering adult plants should be moderate but constant. Fertilizers other than those applied before planting are not required. In case it is not enough acidic soil, you can water with water and diluted vinegar or citric acid.
The plant should be planted in free space, open area, but what’s better is that trees be planted nearby that can cover the calla lilies during the hottest hours of the day.
Zantedeschi care at home
In indoor conditions, caring for homemade Zantedeschia is also not particularly difficult.
The flower is not very picky about temperature or humidity. The growing temperature in summer should be around 23 degrees. In winter, a decrease to 15 degrees can be allowed, but not lower. Zantedeschia does not like drafts, and it also needs to be protected from direct sunlight, but, nevertheless, it must be placed in a bright place.
In winter, if the calla lily is about to bloom, it needs to be provided with additional lighting, so that the daylight hours are 10 hours. Watering must be done carefully so as not to get water on the tuber, and in the interval between waterings, the soil should dry out.
Fertilizer is applied every fifth watering. For this you need to use balanced liquid fertilizers. The substrate for planting requires an acidic one, approximately 6 ph; you can add sphagnum or peat to the soil.
To force a plant, you need to take a tuber with a diameter of at least 5 cm and plant it in a pot with a diameter of 25 cm. The planting depth is 5 cm. After filling the tuber, the soil must be watered with diluted fungicide.
Care after flowering for calla lilies with roots and calla lilies with tubers are different. Ethiopian zantedeschia, which has a rhizome, turns into a period of calm in the heat, its growth becomes slow, the leaves turn yellow. Watering during this period should be limited, and the flower should be placed in the open air, where there will be a lot of sun, but there will be no rain. At the beginning of July, Zantedeschia is cleared of dead leaves and offspring, and then replanted, fertilizing and watering begin.
How to store callas in winter
If your zantedeschia grows in the garden, then in September its roots will need to be dug up and kept together with a lump of soil in a dry, cool room, occasionally watering a little. Zantedeschia with a tuberous rhizome begins to turn yellow and dry out after flowering.
Such calla lilies are kept in the garden until the last week of September, and then they are carefully dug up, the tubers are washed and dried. Plants are kept at a temperature of about 8 degrees for two weeks, during which time the roots absorb useful material from stem and leaves. The dead top of the flower is then removed.
Before storage, tubers need to be soaked in a solution of potassium permanganate for half an hour, rinsed and dried again. Storage should be carried out at a temperature of 6 degrees. Do not put onions in plastic bags because they need to breathe.
If it is not possible to store root calla lilies as tuberous ones, then the roots are slightly dried and stored as bulbs. When growing zantedeschia in a pot, you don’t have to take it out for the winter, but you need to stop watering.
Diseases and pests
- Among the diseases of Zantedeschia, the flower is most often affected by rot.
- Gray rot most often appears from the soil or diseased neighboring flowers; bulbs can also be diseased.
- To destroy brown rot, you need to stop watering the calla lilies and reduce the temperature; it is advisable to remove the damp top layer of soil and replace it with dry one.
- Aphid damage may also occur; in this case, you can simply wash the flower with soap or use special preparations.
- If your zantedeschia does not bloom, then the reason may be watering during the dormant period, or you simply have young plant and you need to wait a year or two. Also, flowering is absent with an excess of nitrogen fertilizers.