When is the best time to bring land to a summer cottage? Delivery of land for a summer residence in the Moscow region

Now that suburban construction is rapidly developing, the acquisition of land for the construction of a summer house or cottage is becoming especially relevant. However, it often turns out that if the terrain is not carefully studied, the owner ends up with a plot on two levels, which leads to problems both in the construction of structures on it and in the development of the territory. To imagine how to deal with this, let's look at the most common ways to solve the problem.

Types of land plots

Land plots differ significantly in their topography and geological features. Among them are:

• Land areas above sea level. Their peculiarity is their location in mountainous or elevated areas. This usually leads to more precipitation in such an area and a lower average annual temperature. The soils here are predominantly podzolic, clayey or sandy, but sometimes carbonate or podzolic chernozems are found. The relief of a land plot located above sea level can be either flat or hilly. In the latter case, it is impossible to do without raising the level, that is, without eliminating the most noticeable depressions.

• Land areas below sea level. They are often characterized by significant swampy soils, sometimes the formation of salt marshes, but fertile silty soils are also common. Therefore, you should not immediately refuse such an acquisition, but it is advisable to definitely raise the level of the site in order to avoid future flooding of the foundations of buildings and create optimal conditions for growing garden and vegetable crops.

• Land plots below ground level. Here, raising the level on the site is mandatory, since its territory appears to be in a lowland and water will flow onto it from neighboring sites, a nearby highway, etc., leading to soil washout and a decrease in the service life of structures. The typical for such territories can have a particularly destructive impact. high level groundwater.
• Land plots above ground level. At first glance, they are practically free of drawbacks, but the uneven terrain creates additional difficulties in cultivating the garden, caring for the garden, and simply moving around the area, where it is very easy to trip. However, raising the level of the site, which is necessary here to smooth out unevenness, allows you to quickly solve this problem.

Why raise the land?

If, at first glance, the difference in levels on the site is not too obvious, many people have a desire to save money and improve the territory without the hassle of raising the level of zones located in the lowlands compared to the rest. But there are several cases when experts recommend strongly considering this operation:

• Groundwater flows too close to the soil surface, which can cause waterlogging and erosion of the upper, most fertile layer of soil.

• The site has several pronounced hills and depressions. This makes it difficult not only to build a house, but also to improve the area adjacent to it: for example, lanterns installed in lowlands will do a poor job of illuminating the area, and flowers or vegetable crops planted on a hill will not take root well due to the gradual sliding of the soil.

• Neighboring areas are located much higher than this area. And this automatically means that during heavy rains or floods, there will be constant and regular water in the area around the house.

Methods for raising a plot of land

In practice, there are not so many ways to increase the level of a land plot, but all of them have proven themselves quite well. They differ depending on the height to which the site area needs to be raised:

• If this figure does not exceed 30 cm, soil is usually used (imported or taken from the hills of the site). Additionally, it is compacted with a vibrating plate and laid on top of the previously removed fertile soil layer.

• If the difference in levels between zones local area reaches 30 cm or more, they do it differently: they take so-called “planning” mixtures, in which sand is combined with gravel. They are laid in layers, between which it is recommended to place layers of fertilizers, and on top of them - the top fertile soil layer, without which planting any plants will be impossible.

Particular attention is required when it is necessary to raise the level of the area where it is planned to create a lawn. In this case, they usually resort to one of three options:

• If water regularly stands on the lawn, flooding it, then before raising the level of the area, you should make sure that there is no clay layer inside the soil. Otherwise, this operation will not achieve anything in terms of drainage, even if the groundwater flows deep. After confirming the presence of clay, it should be completely removed and replaced with a layer of sand, on top of which black soil is laid. Then the water will drain much better.
• If there is a road above the area where the lawn is located, and this leads to water flowing onto the area, it is best to raise its level using porous soil. Usually serves them river sand. To prevent such soil from eroding, it is advisable to fence the lawn with a concrete fence with a height of 3-4 cm, but the depth of its installation in the soil should be at least 20 cm.
• When it is precisely established that the depth of groundwater is really no more than a meter or two, then, in addition to pouring an earthen or sand layer on the lawn area, it is necessary to take care additional installation drainage system.

Preparatory work for raising the land plot

In order to improve personal plot was effective, before raising the level of the site, it is necessary to perform a series of preparatory work. For this:

• They carefully study the topography of the territory, determine the type of soil and the depth of groundwater flow, as well as the proximity of water bodies.
• It will always be useful to observe the neighboring areas, where they may be digging pits for laying the foundation of a house, holes for fence posts, or laying a drainage system from the territory. This will allow you to visually determine the depth at which the water is in the well, find out in which direction the water flows from the site, and where this is generally impossible and the area partially resembles a swamp, especially at certain times of the year. Also, this kind of “spying” on neighbors makes it possible to determine, without expensive geological exploration, whether the soil is sandy, clay or peat.
• After preliminary orientation on the area, it is necessary to clean the area: remove old tree roots, debris, stumps, and weeds. Next, it is advisable to give the soil time to settle for a week, but provided that the weather is dry.

• During the settling period, you should begin creating along the entire perimeter of the site strip foundation. Its height is chosen so that the foundation rises above the soil level in neighboring areas. To achieve this, the perimeter is surrounded by a trench, the depth of which must be at least 20 cm. Wooden formwork is installed in it. For the manufacture of formwork they take wooden board with a thickness of approximately 30-40 mm, which is fixed with stakes installed at a distance of 50-100 cm from each other. Cement-crushed stone or cement-gravel mortar is poured into the middle of the formwork. The ratio of the components in it should be as follows: for one part of cement there are 3 parts of sand and 5 parts of gravel. If the air temperature is 15-20 degrees, the strip foundation will acquire 70% of its safety margin within a week. This will allow us to proceed to the next stage of work.

Land raising technology

When raising the level of the site we will need:

• Shovels.
• Cord.
• Hose.
• Rake.
• Buckets.
• Sand.
• Crushed stone.
• Water.
• Gravel.
• Cement.
• Vibrating plate.
• Hydrostatic level.
• Yardstick.
• Concrete mixer.

So that the different levels of the site turn into flat surface, which has a slight slope (about 3 cm per meter of length) to improve soil drainage, the following operations must be performed:

• Carefully remove the fertile layer of soil 10-20 cm thick. It is stored in a separate place until the final stage of work.
• If you intend to level the ground level on a site on a local scale, it is advisable to place small wooden pegs across this area and along the perimeter of the strip foundation at a distance of approximately 2 meters from each other and stretch a cord between them. This will allow you to adjust the soil level by removing or adding it between the pegs until the level of the above cord is reached. To ensure that the required height of the area is uniform, it should be controlled using a hydrostatic level.

• Correctly distribute the areas where soil will be added. Thus, the level of the area in which the beds or lawn will be located is usually increased by adding sand. If the place is not intended for growing plants and paths pass through it or there are utility rooms, the level is raised by adding sandy loam or clay. If there is a very large difference between the levels, it is permissible to place even construction waste at a depth.

Further actions depend on the thickness of the layer that needs to be added to raise the level of the area:

• If the soil level needs to be raised to a height not exceeding 30 cm, we bring soil to the site and lay it in layers, the thickness of which is 5-10 cm. After laying one layer, it should be compacted with vibrating plates, filled with water and left for a day. Only after this is it allowed to proceed to the next layer. We repeat the procedure until the desired height is reached. In this case, be sure to take into account the thickness of the previously removed fertile soil layer, which is returned to its place, placed on top of all well-compacted layers.
• If the terrain of the area is far from a perfectly flat surface, and the difference between the levels exceeds 30 cm, the algorithm of actions is almost the same, but instead of earth they take a sand-gravel mixture. It is laid in layers 5 cm thick. It is recommended to place a layer of fertilizer, usually a peat pad, in the middle of each of them. Each layer of the “planning” mixture of sand and gravel must be compacted well and left to settle for a day before pouring the next layer.
• On final stage the height of the laid layers of earth or sand-gravel mixture should be slightly higher than the required level, since the soil with a kind of filler inside shrinks. Its duration depends on the volume of precipitation, the thickness of the laid layers and other factors.

All of the above is valid only for plots small area. If the territory that will have to be leveled occupies several hectares, use special equipment as follows:

• First, the fertile soil layer is removed using a special bulldozer. It is equipped with a hinged knife, which allows you to cut and move soil to other places. After the fertile layer has been deposited in a safe place, a bulldozer is used to cut off the high mounds and fill the depressions with this earth. At the same time, the advantage of a bulldozer is that it is able to perform its functions not only on a relatively flat surface, but also in areas with complex terrain, where there are hills, ravines, dried up stream beds, etc.

• Then the area is plowed twice: in the transverse and longitudinal directions, and after that it is treated - also twice - with a cultivator. Next stage- compaction of the top layer. A barrel filled with water is often used for this operation.
• The final stage is to sow lawn grass seeds, which are sprinkled with earth or sand. Then the surface is rolled with a barrel again.

Very good results gives a rise in the level of the land, if it is accompanied by the arrangement of a drainage system that prevents flooding of the site. To do this, trenches are dug along the perimeter of the territory, the slope of which should not be less than 3-4 cm per meter.

Many gardeners are faced with the problem of poor soil: for some in their dacha it is too oxidized, for others it is too heavy or, conversely, not fertile at all. You have to either try your best to improve the quality of the land, or abandon the idea of ​​​​vegetable beds and leave only lawns with trees on the site. I will help you decide whether it is worth buying black soil for your dacha. My own experience allows me to become your advisor in this matter.

My neighbors and I were especially “lucky”: having settled on the shore of an artificial reservoir, we received “plots” of sandy loam soil, more like sand than garden soil. The soil contained too few useful substances and could not retain moisture: half an hour after the heavy rain The paths were already completely dry.

What can we say about vegetable crops oh, if some of them survived, they gave a meager harvest. Or they demanded too much attention to themselves - just have time to appease the earth! Some plants (including berry bushes) simply dried out from a lack of essential substances in the soil.

However, sandy loam soil had its positive sides. Therefore, in order to decide whether to buy black soil for a plot or not, I propose to consider the pros and cons of soil and sandy loam soil too.

Features of sandy loam soil:

- Lightness. Such soil is easy to dig up, so caring for a vegetable garden can be done by a fragile girl or an elderly person: no tears or headaches from just the thought of a shovel.

- Poverty of the land. In fact, this point combines both negative and positive! After all, in addition to vegetable crops, weeds also grow on the site. Their sandy loam soil also depresses, so pest plants do not grow in the beds and do not reach such sizes as in fertile soil. And because of the lightness of the soil, it is much easier to pull out weeds; their roots do not “stick” to the ground very much, and therefore do not break off.

- Loss of moisture. Sand absorbs water like a sponge. But it doesn’t hold it, but lets it down, which has a very bad effect on the plants. It turns out that crops systematically do not receive the moisture they need: the water leaves without having time to moisten root system. To somehow correct this problem, experienced summer residents recommend slowly digging peat into sandy loam beds or laying a layer of clay at the bottom of the beds, which will retain moisture. But it's very labor-intensive process, “thanks to” which you can break your back at the dacha. Not to mention the fact that peat and clay also need to be “obtained” somewhere and money must be paid for it.

Features of imported black soil:

- Weeds. New land will certainly bring new weeds and new diseases to the site - you need to be prepared for this. For example, here, the black soil brought in in the fall “appeared” in early spring, when hemp bushes have sprouted in the beds :) No one is immune from this, so you need to carefully monitor the new soil for at least the first year.

- Heavy ground. After the usual sandy loam soil, processing new beds with black soil may seem more difficult work: plants grow stronger in such soil, and it is difficult to pull out weeds.

— Better storage moisture. You also need to get used to the fact that water does not immediately go into the ground after watering. This means adapting to watering new beds less often, otherwise nightshade crops (tomatoes, eggplants, peppers, potatoes) may rot or develop a fungus from excess moisture.

- Expensive. Of course, the cost of black soil for a summer cottage varies in different regions, but this is not a cheap purchase in any case. Therefore, if you are not seriously thinking about growing vegetables, it is better to refuse imported land, so as not to suffer about the “missing” money later.

— Depletion of the earth in the future. Over the years, even the best black soil will still mix with the “native” soil of your site. And if you, like us, have sandy loam soil, then they will go through it along with the water. useful material black soil But before the land is completely depleted, you will have 20-25 years, during which it will be possible to grow vegetables more successfully (compared to sand).

So, after weighing all these pros and cons, we decided to buy black soil for our dacha. The truck with the earth barely fit into the narrow country street (keep this point in mind!), dumped a mountain of earth and drove away. And we had to transport the black soil to the designated beds and level the ground, which took almost the whole day. A whole truck will not be enough for the entire plot, so I advise you to think in advance which of the beds you will “ennoble” with new soil, and be sure to acquire garden wheelbarrow for transporting soil. It’s better not to take on this task without a shovel and a wheelbarrow!

1. The change of soil had almost no effect on tomatoes and carrots: to obtain good harvest These crops need to be planted at the appropriate time and systematically cared for.

But zucchini, cucumbers and squash responded very well to black soil! In the photo you see a bed divided in half: on the left (on black soil) the zucchini have grown strong and strong, and on the right (on sandy loam soil) their bushes look rather weak.


2. For the pumpkin new land became simply a panacea. Previously, our pumpkins grew poorly: the bushes turned out to be small, and the ovaries did not develop and disappeared:


Now, on the black soil, the strong pumpkin vines have grown 2 meters, and the ovaries quickly began to increase in size. Moreover, the pumpkin fruits continued to grow even when we were not at the dacha: they survived 10 days without watering or rain!


3. Peppers also appreciated the black soil. Previously, on the sand they gave a very meager harvest: out of 10 bushes it was possible to get only 2-3 peppers per season. The bushes looked frail, although they were watered regularly - twice a day.

By the way, find out.
On the black soil, the peppers began to grow quickly: the bushes turned out to be strong, and several ovaries formed on each. So in the case of peppers, chernozem is several times more effective.


4. Beetroot also liked chernozem more. Despite the fact that this crop requires a lot of attention (loosening, organic and boron fertilizing), the beet bed on black soil turned out to be very successful.


5. I was especially pleased with the legume crops on the black soil. We finally managed to grow sweet green peas, climbing beans and even Chinese asparagus

My garden is located in a swampy area and regularly gets heavily flooded in the spring. This has the most negative impact on the quality of the soil - nutrients They are gradually washed out of it, it becomes very compacted and does not dry out until the end of May. When purchasing soil for a plot, I had to go through almost every possible rake, so in this article I decided to look at the main mistakes that gardeners make when purchasing soil for a plot.

Choosing the wrong soil composition

When choosing the composition of the purchased soil mixture, two factors need to be taken into account: initial soil condition on the site (its level of fertility + mechanical composition) and kinds cultivated plants that you plan to cultivate on your land (for some vegetable and ornamental crops there may be diametrically opposed requirements not only for the structure of the soil, but also for the quantity and ratio of the basic nutrients contained in it).

For example, to improve heavy soil containing a large percentage of clay, a mixture consisting of high-quality bottom peat, coarse sand and floodplain soil in a ratio of 3:4:2 is best suited. Of course, most often the choice of soil mixtures on the market is limited and comes down to two or three options:

1. Peat mixtures, which are a mixture of fertile soil and peat in different ratios. They are usually purchased for a lawn and for site planning.
2. Chernozems are used mainly as a nutrient additive to the main soil mixture (usually no more than 10% of its volume).
3. Soil mixtures, which may include, in addition to peat and plant soil, humus, mineral fertilizers, sand and even compost. Such mixtures are usually offered by large specialized companies and are not cheap. But they usually do not contain debris, have optimal moisture and air capacity and undergo strict environmental control.

The general rule is - choose a soil in which the amount of peat does not exceed 30%.

Purchasing from unreliable suppliers

If you are not sure of the seller’s integrity, then it is better to play it safe and purchase soil from large, well-known companies that value their reputation in the market and will not give you a pig in a poke.

By purchasing soil from private owners at a low price, if a successful combination of circumstances occurs, you will receive waste soil from industrial greenhouses, on which even ordinary parsley will not grow. And in the worst case, you will get land from sedimentation tanks, “rich” in compounds of mercury, lead, cadmium, copper and even arsenic. You can pay for such savings with your health and that of your loved ones.

I had the experience of purchasing such soil: they brought us the top layer of virgin soil cut from a meadow. The soil was used to fill the foundation from the demolished country house and to raise the ground level by small area in the other place. Already next spring We realized what a mistake we had made - the entire area was covered with perennial weeds, which we had to fight throughout the next season.

But if you still decide to buy soil from a machine, then at least carry out a minimal check:

1. Use a wooden stake with a pointed end to poke the soil in different places. Can the stick easily pierce the soil mixture? This means there is almost no clay in it. If you cannot push the stick even 10 centimeters, then there is a lot of clay or sand in the land offered to you.
2. Conduct a soil acidity test using the OKP soil control kit (you can buy it at any gardening store).
3. Do a simple soil texture test described in.
4. Take an empty liter jar, fill it with soil, pour it in clean water and stir thoroughly. Wait until the soil settles into a sediment consisting of a layer of clay and sand. If we conventionally take the height of the resulting column as 100%, you can easily estimate how much sand is in the soil mixture and how much of the other components.

And here chemical composition purchased soil and its environmental safety can only be determined in a specialized laboratory.

Purchasing black soil

Purchasing black soil to improve the quality of the soil on the site is an expensive and pointless exercise. And that's why.

Firstly, in our climate, chernozem very quickly loses all its positive characteristics for which it was bought. And the whole point is that chernozem is formed only if the moisture coefficient in a given area does not exceed one, that is, the earth evaporates more moisture than is poured onto it along with precipitation. In most of the territory of Russia, this coefficient is above one, so after just a few heavy rains, black soil loses all its advantages, becomes compacted and becomes overgrown with a hard crust.

Secondly, REAL black soil cannot be cheap if the nearest black soil zone is located hundreds of kilometers away from your site. The cost of such soil consists not only of the price of its loading and unloading, it also includes all kinds of transport and overhead costs, including gasoline costs.

Third, often under the guise of chernozem they sell a mixture of bottom peat and sapropel. This mixture looks like black soil, but it is less fertile and also tends to acidify the soil on the site.

Buying too little land

This is also one of the most common mistakes made when purchasing land for a site.

For example, if your goal is to increase the soil level in a plot of six acres with medium loamy soil by only 4 - 5 centimeters, then you will need at least 30 cubic meters soil, that is, you will need to bring to the site at least 2-3 (!) truckloads of soil(truck capacity varies from 10 to 15 cubic meters of soil). In our area, one car of fertile land (note that it is land of untested quality, and not humus or, especially, black soil) costs from 5,000 rubles. And if you take a better one, and even with all the “paperwork,” you will have to fork out the entire 10,000 rubles.

It seems to me that the best way out of this situation is to equip the garden with stationary beds and fill them with high-quality soil mixture purchased from large companies with a good reputation. As an option, you can also purchase sapropel, sand, horse (cow humus) and peat and make the mixture yourself (if you have the time and knowledge).

Thus, the order of your actions when purchasing soil for a site should be as follows:

1. Determine the mechanical and nutritional composition of the soil on your site, and also think in advance what crops you are going to grow on it.
2. Choose a large supplier who is ready to provide you with a full list of certificates and analyzes of the soil mixture they sell.
3. Calculate how many cubic meters of soil you need for your purposes (improving fertility or raising the ground level).

By the way, about how to ennoble clay soil, you can read it.

I also recommend watching a short video on the same topic.

In the spring, along many highways you can see trucks with black soil for sale. Find out how to choose the right soil for your garden.

Chernozems are understood as soils of forest-steppe and steppe zones with agronomically valuable indicators: physical (crumbly granular structure, porosity, moisture capacity), chemical (nutrient content, acidity, humus content) and microbiological. There are no such soils anywhere else in the world, and black soils are recognized as our national wealth.

POLLUTION PROBLEMS

Companies offering black soil for sale must have permission to use state subsoil. However, it is often found that sellers of chernozem do not only have government permits, but even do not have sanitary examination certificates. But the proposed soil may well be collected, if not in Chernobyl zone, then just near the highway, where the content is extremely high heavy metals from exhaust gases.

A similar problem is possible if the machine has relatively clean soil. for a long time I expected it to be sold in an area of ​​heavy traffic, but if it was collected from former collective farm fields where long-decomposing pesticides were previously intensively used. Black soil is often sold under the guise of soil mixture for lawns (in this case it is easier to obtain permits).
In any case, when buying soil for a plot, try to check its quality as much as possible and, if possible, find out the level of heavy metals, conduct radiological monitoring, find out the content of nutrients, acidity, microflora and mechanical composition.

QUALITY CRITERIA

Chemical indicators. First of all, high-quality chernozem has a high content of nutrients and a high percentage of humus. All crops remove the most potassium from the harvest, and there should be more of this element in the chernozem. Sandy loam and sandy soils are poor in potassium. Therefore, if the soil is taken from where there is sand under a 20-30 cm layer of black soil, you can easily detect the low quality even without the help of an agrochemical laboratory, but simply by the presence of sand in the ground. There is no need to be alarmed by high nitrogen content, this is normal.

Physical indicators. Here, don’t be too lazy to get into the car and lightly rake the pound. The best chernozem is only dry at the top, but already at a depth of 20 centimeters it is moist (the moisture content must be indicated in the certificate), has a pleasant granular-crumbly structure, and is black. If you wet it further, you can make a ring like plasticine from the fertile layer. If it crumbles, the humus content in the soil is low, as is its overall quality. Don’t be lazy to do this, even if the mechanical composition is indicated in the certificate. Also, you should not buy a pound whose certificate contains the characteristics “podzolic” and “swamp”. Finally, pay attention to the presence of vegetation. The abundance of weed roots, sticks and stubble sharply reduces the value of the product.

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Dig up the chopped green mass together with the soil to a depth of 8–10 cm at any time, as soon as such an opportunity arises, and it is best to add hay in the spring, before planting, in trenches, under a layer of soil 25–30 cm thick. It can be added to such trenches and food waste (except bones), tops, vegetable peelings. It is best to apply leaves in the fall under shallow digging. How to improve the soil on the site? Plant winter rye or white mustard at the end of summer, and dig up in late autumn aboveground part mustard and rye shoots along with roots. The rye can be left until spring, but then it will first have to be mowed and then dug up. You can “treat” the soil with bacterial fertilizers that are sold...

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Morning. Hasty getting ready for work. We remember about the garbage, pick it up from the bucket... And then, at the most inopportune moment - on staircase or at the entrance, the polyethylene breaks - cans, pieces of paper and bits of wood spill out at your feet. The situation is unpleasant, but familiar to many firsthand. How to avoid it? Be careful when choosing garbage bags. The main characteristic that influences the quality of the package is the composition of the feedstock. As a rule, a distinction is made between low-density polyethylene (LDPE...

Discussion

I recently found the website of a company on the Internet, they produce high-quality garbage bags, use the latest equipment and have extensive experience... in general, if anyone is interested, I will leave a link [link-1]

Personally, my wife often sends me to take out the trash, but since I’m lazy, I wait until the last minute, and they often break along the way, I found a place where there are strong bags [link-1], I advise.

What is the best way to arrange a garden plot so that there is enough space for everything? To small plot contained everything necessary and visually seemed larger, you have to comply certain rules and even resort to tricks. First of all, you should not build a house and a garage in the middle of the plot or on the side opposite from the entrance. In this case, the access road will take up too much space. To save money...

According to Mittlider, narrow beds watered every day. With organics it is a completely different matter. If both the beds and walkways are covered with mulch, two waterings per week are sufficient. Especially convenient here drip irrigation: for a narrow bed, one tape is enough, for a bed of 70-80 cm - a maximum of two. Trenches - narrow beds for hot climates If your site never gets flooded, it is best to sink a narrow compost bin into the ground. Right in the turf I dig a trench two bayonets wide and a bayonet deep. I put branches and humus with soil at the bottom, and finished compost with soil on top. I plant tomatoes, cucumbers, beans, cabbage, and peppers in two rows. When they get up and grow, I fill the trench with straw or grass. And my fellow countryman Sergei Kladovikov mulches his trenches with shredded cardboard...

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Have you decided to grow crops and don’t know where to start? First of all, you need to properly plan your garden plot. This determines how rich your harvest will be. What kind of conditions you create for your crops plays a big role. In the old days, it was believed that if there were no fruit trees, shrubs, flowers, fragrant herbs, and vegetable crops on a site, then the site was not beautiful. Planning the site To properly plan the site, you must decide what you...

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The question I'm interested in is: is it possible to install cesspool or a septic tank behind the fence, outside the site?

Discussion

In fact, there is a whole set of rules for installation sewerage structures. But it was easier for us - representatives of the officials installed the Topas 6 septic tank for us, so everything was done as it should be on the site. There are no complaints, everyone is happy. And by the way, we also immediately ordered the service. We are planning to mothball the septic tank for the winter, fortunately there is such an opportunity. The septic tank itself is resistant to voltage surges and works constantly. You will seek advice from people who are involved and understand this directly and you will be happy.

You can build a septic tank anywhere, but you need to keep in mind that building a septic tank outside the site is an illegal structure and you face the following risks:

Firstly, construction outside the site will definitely be noticed by someone and brought to your attention.

Secondly, there are no guarantees that someday in the future you will not be issued an order to liquidate an illegal building at your expense,

Thirdly, when registering a building, you will have to register (show on the drawings and present the SES) the septic tank. A septic tank located outside the site will deprive you of the opportunity to officially register the structure.

Tell me, please - we want to buy a plot - they offer the one on the edge towards the forest (behind it drainage ditch from the rear and the forest from the side (the neighbor is only on one side). Or we can take it in the middle of the row (neighbors on both sides). What are the pros and cons of extreme areas? Which is better to choose?

Discussion

I’m hooked, I’ll write it too. A few years ago we bought a plot on the edge of the village. The plot is corner, there are neighbors on both sides, there are no plots across the road. I planted along the fence on the street different trees, lilacs, pine trees are growing now, it will be beautiful. Village on a hill, open from the site panoramic views. It's also beautiful...
But according to the wind rose, fire from the highway comes to our site from the field - cigarette butts are thrown or deliberately set on fire, I can’t say. And where do these idiot arsonists come from???
The fields are not cultivated, dry grass is burning. Last year's spring felt like the end of the world. All the fields in the vicinity, unmown areas, burned down. One house on an overgrown neighbor's property. Everything was mown down to the ground. So it worked out. But if suddenly there is no one to mow the grass around the site, everything could burn down in one season.
Photos for seeding - for those who choose the outermost area, and for those who are still burning last year's grass. This is what we had on May 1, 2015.

It is huge, the property is 10 acres, but in fact half a hectare. And there are no neighbors behind the fence. - they already said, safety. True, a friend said that they climbed into the neighbors in the middle even though there was a barrier and a security guard. Yes, we have our own pine alley along the fence, my husband planted it 20 years ago, here’s another one +.

But if there was a forest on the site, or the ground needs to be dug up for other reasons, you will have to start planting a lawn according to all the rules. We'll tell you how to make a lawn at your dacha with your own hands, what kind lawn grass buy how often the lawn needs watering and mowing. What is a lawn? This is a specially constructed, leveled area, sown with various turf-forming or creeping low-growing plants. Lawns can...

I really need advice. In front of our house on the south side we have a plot of land 7mx3m. The sun is always there. Initially, I planted clematis there - out of 25 varieties, 4 remained, the rest did not survive, although watering was according to the rules (a lot and rarely). I planted thujas and they turned yellow. The soil there is good, but we need to plant plants that really love the heat and sun. Maybe grapes? Please tell me. Thank you.

Discussion

Are you ready to have some fun with grapes? his neighbor constantly wraps him up
I have irises, peonies, phlox, daylilies, marigolds, delphinium, lilies, my neighbors have roses

It’s strange about clematis - I have 20 of them sitting on the south side of the house on sunny area for 12 years now, and there are no problems if you shade the base of the bush by planting annuals so that the soil does not overheat.

Girls, tell me, I want to buy a car of land (there is so much of it, soil and black soil and a bunch of other things...) for 1. I need to plant trees 2. make a small vegetable garden 3. if there is a little left, then a piece of lawn, the question is, what kind of land should I buy? and if you can give me the login passwords for Kiev, that would be great!

And weeds will creep out of the ground again, and gardeners will experience new stage struggle for cleanliness of the beds. Is it possible to stop weeding the beds? Last summer, with the help of gardening book author Galina Kizima, we figured out why weeding is the most ineffective way to control weeds. Today we will find out what can be done right now, while there is still snow on the beds. So, we taught how to fight perennial rhizomatous weeds...
...While there is snow If you arrive at your site before the last snow has melted, perform the following manipulations. Scatter ash or peat directly over the snow onto the beds to slightly blacken their surface. Then cover the beds with the leftovers. old film, place it on top of the pole so that the film does not lift up or be carried away by the wind. In spring, the sun is hot, and under a layer of film, the blackened snow on the beds will quickly melt, the surface layer of soil will warm up, and weeds will quickly sprout from it. This will happen in about 10-12 days. When you visit your site in two weeks, you will see that the weeds have sprung up. Remove the film, loosen upper layer soil and leave the beds open for a day. Young weed seedlings will die. Weeds are the most vulnerable...

What kind of soil do you buy for seedlings? Last year my husband took it to the Metro and didn’t like it at all; the seedlings obviously didn’t feel very good in this soil. (Which one do you recommend?

"Blanket" for the garden bed: why cover the ground for the winter.

Some very diligent gardeners, after harvesting, remove weeds, dig up the soil, level the surface and leave it like that for the winter, admiring the neat appearance of the garden. It is believed that the soil is resting. However, the uncovered soil does not rest, but is destroyed. She's like undressed man, freezing in the cold wind and freezing in the cold. IN organic farming It is customary to treat soil as a living being. Alive her...

And only once. We tell you how to prepare a garden bed for spring planting now, in the fall. The most labor-intensive step in creating organic beds is double digging the soil. It is most convenient to use a rectangular, well-sharpened shovel. You also need to prepare a pitchfork and a board with a length equal to the width of the bed, so that it is comfortable to stand on it without trampling the ground when digging. The width of the bed should be no more than 1-1.2 m - so that you can freely reach the middle of the bed from any side. The length is taken as needed or as the allocated area allows. Mark the bed. If the soil is dry, water evenly, a little at first, just...

Vegetable garden for the lazy: how to get rid of weeding beds at the dacha

How to get rid of watering at the dacha: 9 materials for mulch

Vegetable garden for the lazy: why digging is harmful

Discussion

07/06/2014 16:57:05, btrfvd

This is not the first time I have read such arguments. Some authors go even further and suggest not to graze tomatoes, not to weed or even sow, but simply to leave some of the plants so that their seeds ripen and are sown.
I read it and am surprised every time. It seems that people consider a large part of humanity not only idiots, but also masochists. After all, experiments on such “natural farming” have been carried out many times over thousands of years of farming - involuntarily, of course (it was impossible to plow, there was no one to harvest the crops, and so on). And if this had led to positive rather than negative results, wouldn’t our ancestors have noticed this?
This kind of “natural farming”, without plowing, but only with loosening directly for sowing, was practiced by people at the dawn of civilization, when Agriculture basically. Only, obviously, plowing turned out to be more productive... otherwise why would they do it? From masochism, perhaps?

Why is the water cycle important in nature?

All water on Earth is in constant motion - the cycle. It evaporates from the surface of the ocean and land, replenishing atmospheric moisture reserves. Water returns from the atmosphere in the form of rain and snow to the ocean and land, feeding numerous rivers and groundwater. Approximately half of the river's water is again carried into the seas and oceans, replenishing the part that was spent on evaporation. Precipitation enriches the soil with moisture, which is so necessary for fertility. Towards the water cycle we are so...

I saw pictures, the spaces between the plants are filled with something that looks like small chips, and also with pebbles like small gravel (?). Who knows what it is, where to get it and what it looks like in real life? Helps keep out weeds and retains moisture? Tell me who knows.

Peat, sand, hydrogel: which is best for seeds

We bought an empty plot this year. We have to start planting next year, I have no experience. What can you plant?

Discussion

We started planting with greenery, ground cucumbers and carrots and beets in small beds. About two hundred square meters was enough. Plus bushes (5) and two cherry and apple trees, a pear.
The first time we plowed the area with a tractor, I didn’t like it, but he was the only one who took the virgin soil. Before winter, hay manure was transported around the site, four years later, and who knows how much manure has flowed, the soil is old, tender and loose, even I can dig with a shovel.
If you still have the strength to plant strawberries, Victoria or whatever you like, not everyone will do it the first year.

to begin with, pour in a hurricane of weeds (2 weeks before digging). Mark the planting sites fruit bushes and trees - usually on the high parts of the site. Mark the paths and the place where the house will be planted. Or a UFO. Don’t forget the parking lot. and only then - roughly dig up - turning over the turf plates. in the spring - that's right, potatoes and to saturate the soil with everything useful - oats. or rye. with a broad gesture of the sower from O. Bender. ridges - across the slope.

There is a river 25-30 m from the bathhouse. You need a pump and I don’t know which one is better - a submersible one, but it needs to be cleaned every evening or placed in the bathhouse, but they say that there are some problems with it.

Discussion

Podolsky Dozhileks. If not for drinking, just right. powerful and most importantly - long-lived in very aggressive environments. 3600r from the factory - the lowest power in the line.

We have the Baby hanging, 150 m from the barrel-pool to the river, a hose has been laid and electrical wire. Excellent for watering, washing and swimming pools. But we have a height of 10 m in front of us, a house on a mountain, a river under the mountain. We hang the pump in May and remove it in September, the neighbors also have a Baby hanging on the river - we tie it on a string and a stick :) Not submersible, the ground Gardena could not lift water up for us, so we use it around the site.
Even earlier there was a gasoline pump, but they were tired of taking it to the river.

Vegetable garden in the kitchen.

This post will be close, first of all, to all fans and students of the magnificent master Jamie Oliver. To everyone who, like me, follows his work, his new books and updates on the website and in in social networks. I really love his TV programs, especially “Ready in 30 Minutes”. It’s amazing how you can use everyday ingredients to prepare a complete lunch menu in such a short time. At the same time, Jamie's simplicity is impressive! His kind of childish spontaneity...

Discussion

Your rack is unreal. Well, it’s not clear why you should keep so much land at home. I usually plant two bowls of basil-oregano and I have enough for the whole summer. The basil has already sprouted, by the way.

Mint and parsley grow beautifully on my window in the summer. Dill, surprisingly, grows, but does NOT smell at all. Either it needs pollination or something, but the grass is grass.
It is generally impossible to grow such a waterfall of greenery in ordinary apartment. Only if on special. substrate and with round-the-clock illumination.

Vegetable beds- change the configuration.

It turns out that starlings can also be fed

If spring is not in a hurry to come to you, the ground is covered with snow, and the starlings have already arrived, you can help them - feed them with finely chopped boiled meat or sausage. Not being able to reach the insects under the snow, they will be glad of this. That's what some ornithologist said on TV.

“Russian vegetable garden - NK”: the best possible

Today, Russian Ogorod-NK is the largest company in the world in terms of seed production volumes. The holding carries out the full range of seed production: selection and selection, seed production, cleaning, packaging and sale on the professional and amateur market. More than 1200 items The Russian Ogorod-NK company offers a wide selection of seeds and planting materials vegetables, flowers, lawns. Our range can satisfy not only amateurs, but also the most advanced...

We have a plot of land. It’s new, just the roads have been made and the land has been marked out. There is no money for the development yet, maybe in 3 years we will develop it. So I’m thinking, maybe I can plant some apple and pear trees - they’ll just grow? But the most I can do there is come 3-4 times over the summer. Will they survive under such conditions? Well, maybe I’ll come again in the spring and fall.. Or shouldn’t I bother? Or maybe something else can be planted in advance? (large plot - plant as much as you like)

Discussion

Necessarily!!! plant fruit trees(4-6 apple trees, 3-4 plums) and 3-5 currants. You can plant trees with 2-3 tapholes (these are just thin twigs and not expensive), but in 3-4 years they will become larger, then it will be possible to shape them, or maybe not necessary at all. And during this time the currants will also grow and bear fruit. And if you come 3-4 times over the summer and once in spring and autumn, that’s enough. Plant in early spring, there will definitely be rain in the spring. They will take root over the summer. M.b. Some will die, but certainly not everything. Good luck!

lawn grass or bentgrass - and cut 3-4 times per season.
trees and shrubs can be planted, but may die in the heat.
if only "at random"

Girls, I need your advice. We recently got a site. Last year we spent our first summer there. There is a small vegetable garden, but everything grew poorly, partly of course due to the great heat, but this is not the only reason, I’m sure. According to inaccurate information, previously the owners of the land did not fertilize it with anything. What can and should be done to the soil in the spring so that the crop grows well? The land itself is good, black soil. Eat compost heap, but there is not much of it. There’s definitely not enough for the whole garden. Maybe I can fertilize the soil with something? If yes, then...

I have a lot of car, I think 1 cube per eye, maximum two. The neighbors don't need it... where can you get that much? I was thinking maybe I could pick it up, right outside the Moscow Ring Road (Kosino). Maybe you can point me in? :)

please tell me where to buy good land(for beds)? direction: Leningradka, Dmitrovka or Rogochevka

I'm going to order a car of land for my dacha this weekend.... Approximately how much does it cost now?

We dug a 4x4 pond in very good condition. low place. We always have water standing in this corner and our neighbors’. We dug ditches around the site so that all rainwater from the site would drain into the pond. After 2 years, this pond became 6x6...and I'm afraid that this is not the limit. We’re thinking about how to strengthen the banks so that they don’t creep further. And yet - when we dug it, water immediately began to appear - there was a stream - as if an underground spring was flowing. Maybe someone knows what is better to do in our case... We have fish and aquatic plants in our pond)

Discussion

We are very similar. It’s also a pond in a low place, and there’s also a stream flowing nearby. And it also collapsed heavily in one place for about two years. Strengthened metal fittings and big stones. First, they cut the earth in layers, like steps, then these steps were strengthened. And along the entire edge there are large plants with rhizomes that can hold the ground.

Not only is there groundwater close, you also dug grooves for it, of course it will expand. You can reinforcement mesh You can lay down the banks, you can drive them in with old pipes, you can use sheets of iron, you can cover them with turf and stones, you can even line them with logs, you can cement them, you can just lay them down with stones.
Can I cover this bank with black film and remove the stones?

Throughout the site there are paths and grooves left over from the beds. For two seasons now we’ve been thinking about what’s best to do with them... Just dig them up and level them? I'm afraid that the local workers won't make it possible to sow the lawn. Should we bring in the land and level it? I don’t like the kind of land they bring to the people in the area. Either some kind of clay from somewhere unknown, or peat, which smears on your fingers like fuel oil, under the guise of black soil... Tell me, is it really possible to find good land in the Moscow region? Just don't ask me what I...

I ask the "experienced" for help. There is an uncultivated low area, on about three hundred square meters there is water even in summer. We found a construction site 15 km from the site (near Stupino, Moscow region). One of these days we will go to negotiate with the builders so that the soil from the pit will be brought to us. The actual question is: How much can it cost - that is, within what range of bargaining with builders? And with whom to negotiate - with the foreman or with the drivers? Thanks in advance to everyone who responds.

Large seeds (zucchini, beans, peas, pumpkin) are sown in dug holes, 2-3 grains each, then weak plants deleted, leaving only one. Most of these crops are heat-loving; they are planted at a greater depth: 3-4 cm per heavy soils or 5-6 cm on the lungs. After sowing, it is better to compact the soil a little, lightly pressing down on top with a shovel so that the seeds are better pressed to the ground. But, if the garden bed is heavily flooded with rain before germination, compacting can only do harm: it will be difficult for plants to break through the hard earthen crust. Subtleties of working with seedlings Since the conditions of protected and open ground are sharply different, then the seedlings, “pampered” in the home climate, are not adapted to survive in unprotected conditions...
...There are already developed symbioses: carrots and onions protect each other from the carrot and onion flies, and when cabbage and celery are adjacent, the latter repels white flies. It is good to sow cucumbers, dill, basil, tomatoes, and radishes where zucchini and zucchini will later be planted. And further. Even in the tiniest garden, you need to try to allocate some space for the baby’s “own” garden bed and teach him how to care for the future harvest. Let the most unpretentious crops grow on it, such as radishes, zucchini or lettuce - the child will be interested in watering and weeding his green pets. In addition, children are usually very proud of their gardening successes and enjoy eating the vegetables that they have grown themselves. Is it time to fertilize? A few words about fertilizing plants...

Discussion

I also have clay. In addition to what has already been listed, I always plant a decent plot of peas in the garden, then I dig up this plot along with the husks and tops in the fall.
We transport all the heaps of moles to the beds and flower beds.
When cleaning ponds, we water everything we can with this water (plants love swamp water). Soprapel goes there too.
When developing a new site, I first cover it with cardboard, film, plywood or old slate (whatever I have on hand) so that the vegetation rots, and then the weed roots are easily removed, but the fertile layer remains.
Well, we collect all the green mass, both weeds and vegetable waste, into heaps, cover them with film or plant pumpkins on these heaps. And after 2-3 years, these heaps also turn into soil.

Aurorik told you correctly - you need to add EVERYTHING. Do you remember in 5th grade they did experiments on what soil is made of? Made of clay, sand and cut stones. So add sand and organic matter (peat, humus, sapropel, manure).
Very cheap but long way from personal experience. Sow oats and dig. You can dig it up green, you can wait for it to ripen, harvest it (the grains are easily torn off if you pass the ear through your fingers) and dig up the straw. In the second case, it will turn out very cheap, because seed material will only be needed for the first time. You can sow 2-3 times a year (of course, only the first sowing will have time to ripen). In 5 years you won’t recognize your clay.

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