Insulation wooden house from time immemorial it was done using caulk. It's heavy and long work which requires accuracy and certain skills. Today, in the age of high technology, new methods of insulation have been invented, which are replacing the ancient craft. Disputes about the best way to close the gaps between beams or logs are ongoing. Many adherents of progress use foam instead of caulking to seal crown joints; conservatives prefer traditional way thermal insulation using caulking. Let's figure out what material is best to insulate a house and why.
Before answering the question: which is better, it is necessary to provide a list of requirements for insulating material for a wooden house:
- Vapor permeability, i.e. the material must freely pass through itself water vapor that forms in a warm house. If the material does not have this property, moisture is retained in the insulation without coming out. As a result, the heat insulator gets wet, the wood becomes damp and begins to rot.
- Moisture resistance. This characteristic indicates that the insulation does not accumulate moisture.
- Resistance to microorganisms and fungi.
- Breathability. The material must allow air to pass through well.
The log house is only caulked natural materials: moss, jute, tow, flax.
Natural insulation:
- do not violate the environmental friendliness of a wooden house;
- do not interfere with the air exchange of wood;
- They retain heat well in the house because they have low thermal conductivity.
Log cabin, caulked in the classic way, looks very expressive, the house retains the flavor of a traditional Russian hut. Additionally, the crown seams are decorated with jute tape or cord, and a rope or decorative cord is laid between the logs. This not only improves the appearance of the house, but also improves its thermal insulation.
Despite the many positive aspects, caulk also has some disadvantages:
Firstly, it is a long and tedious job that requires a lot of effort and patience. It is very important to have experience and work skills. maybe a non-specialist. However, there are many nuances. If the seams and joints are caulked incorrectly, the house may become distorted, the insulation may be pulled apart by birds, or it will be knocked out during shrinkage. Every problem has its own solution, which only professionals know.
Secondly, caulking is done several times. This work cannot be done once and for all. The primary one is performed during the construction phase or immediately after its completion. The log house is caulked the second time after the main shrinkage has passed, the work is done both outside and inside. If not produced exterior decoration, then they do the third caulking 3-5 years after the construction of the house. In some cases it is necessary to perform intermediate caulking.
You need to take the choice of the material itself very seriously. Typically, loose insulation (moss, tow) is used at the construction stage. For re-caulking they take more than durable material, which should fit tightly into the grooves without forming gaps. Jute and linen wool are great here.
It should also be taken into account that only moss, and to a lesser extent tow, has good antibacterial properties. The rest of the insulation needs to be processed special compounds. On the other hand, tow tends to accumulate moisture, so it is advisable to use it to caulk areas that are least exposed to the influence of natural precipitation. Birds love to take away natural insulation materials, so you will also have to take care of protecting the material.
Since the caulking process is very labor-intensive, many are trying to find other easier ways to seal the seams between the beams. One option is to foam the joints with polyurethane foam. Let's figure out whether this can be done and how effective this method is.
The material has excellent performance characteristics:
- high heat and sound insulating properties;
- moisture resistance;
- non-flammability;
- ability to densely fill voids and cracks.
In addition, the big advantage of polyurethane foam is simple and quick installation and inexpensive price. For this work it is not necessary to hire installers; it can easily be done independently. It is these indicators that, first of all, those who have made their choice in favor of this insulation are guided by.
However, foam cannot provide a home with reliable and high-quality thermal insulation because:
- does not have sufficient elasticity, which leads to the formation of cracks and crevices when the timber moves during shrinkage;
- when heated strongly, it releases harmful toxins;
- cracks and collapses under the influence of UV rays;
- wood is a breathable material, foam does not allow air to pass through, it simply clogs the pores in the wood and deprives it of natural air exchange;
- Moisture can accumulate at the junction of the foam and the timber, which leads to rotting of the wood.
As you can see, the list of shortcomings is quite wide, which limits the scope of its application.
Foam can only be used when the façade is intended to be covered decorative material. Under these conditions, ultraviolet radiation will not have a detrimental effect on the material. But you need to take into account that the work should be carried out before finishing, and also that with this method of sealing joints, the environmental friendliness of the wooden house will be compromised.
With great reservations, you can foam cracks and roof joints in wooden houses only if this option is considered as a temporary measure.
Professional services
Experts from the Master Srubov company do not recommend using foam to insulate a wooden house and bathhouse. Although caulking inter-crown joints is a more complex and time-consuming job, it guarantees good and reliable thermal insulation, provided that the work is carried out efficiently and professionally.
If you are attracted to new technologies, you want your home to look modern and stylish, we suggest using the service. This material is specially designed for insulating seams between logs and beams and provides a reliable and elastic connection.
The craftsmen of our company work carefully and carefully, strictly observing technology. Specialists are highly qualified, have the necessary skills and great experience work. You can entrust us with home insulation work of any complexity and volume.
Foam insulation has been used for a long time. The method is not new. The technology has been well studied and the materials have been tested. The advantages and disadvantages are known. There are more advantages, because this method of insulation is used in construction and renovation.
Benefits Overview:
1. Such insulation is a biologically pure material. It does not emit anything harmful into the atmosphere.
2. When insulating walls, floors, and ceilings with polyurethane foam, you do not need to spend money on additional waterproofing materials.
3. Foam insulation long years retains its specifications. The service life is estimated at tens of years.
4. Polyurethane foam has high adhesion to various materials. Applied to wooden surfaces, it also protects them from rotting and fungal attack. Metal covered with foam insulation is resistant to corrosion processes.
5. The thermal conductivity of polyurethane foam in a frozen state is several times lower than the thermal conductivity of other insulation materials. There are no seams in the foam coating. The structure is dense and homogeneous. Therefore, heat loss is minimal.
6. Foam insulation has high noise insulation rates.
Now about the disadvantages:
1. Insulation of walls with polyurethane foam indoors should be carried out in conditions of free access of air. In some cases, it is difficult to ensure compliance with this requirement.
2. Foam insulation must be covered with some kind of facing material. And this is additional expenses.
3. Polyurethane foam is not cheap. For insulation you will have to buy more than one cylinder.
Execution of work
Each construction operation begins with the selection of materials and tools. In principle, any polyurethane foam as insulation. “Any” means high-quality, professional. There is no point in fiddling with household spray cans. large areas work.
But when choosing a material, it is important to take into account the characteristics of the building that is planned to be insulated. Eg. If you need to treat a wall, floor or ceiling at the exit point chimney, chimney, then we buy heat-resistant polyurethane foam. This is a must.
Tools
Let us repeat once again: there is no point in insulating using cylinders. Nobody is doing this. Even spray foam guns will not work. You need a special device to spray the substance.
It's expensive. To insulate numerous houses, it is advisable for customers (for money) to purchase it. To perform one-time work, you can rent it.
A device for spraying polyurethane foam supplies the product to the sprayer under pressure. From there - to the surface. The flow rate is controlled by the user (the switch is located near the nozzle). Therefore, before use, it is recommended to test the machine and set a comfortable spray level.
Stages of work
1. Surface preparation.
We remove all dirt and dust. We moisten the clean surface. For good adhesion of polyurethane foam you need high humidity. To moisturize, you can use a primer diluted with water in a 1:1 ratio.
2. Applying foam.
Polyurethane foam is sprayed in portions, carefully filling all cavities and joints. The work is carried out in a bottom-up direction.
When the substance has completely hardened, the surface is considered insulated.
3. Finishing.
Hardened polyurethane foam in open form It is not recommended to leave it. It needs to be sewn up or puttied.
Volkov 04-08-2009 16:06
Polyurethane foam, of course, is convenient to use when installing, for example, windows. But can it be used in wooden structures? Somehow from my childhood I remember that this foam is hygroscopic and therefore will suck moisture and cause wood to rot. Now, can the high assembly say something about the applicability of such foam, or perhaps there are others convenient options fixing windows in openings?
ycb1 04-08-2009 16:20
Nikofar 04-08-2009 16:41
Carry out a simple experiment. Cast a small briquette about the size of a bar of soap from polyurethane foam. Give the briquette time to fully polymerize.
What is better for insulating a wooden house: foam or caulk?
Cut the briquette along the edges with a knife. Place the briquette in the water, pressing it with some weight. Leave for 3-4 days. Take out the briquette. If it has absorbed a lot of water, then yes, the polyurethane foam you used is hygroscopic.
Actually, polyurethane foam does not absorb moisture from the air, as far as I know. In a wooden log house built according to my design, the gaps between timber wall and a box of wooden frames are sealed with polyurethane foam. 12 years ago. No dampening of the seam was detected.
Shniperson 04-08-2009 16:42
Yes. The issue of foam is of great concern. I agree with the question.
Originally posted by ycb1:
Tow in gypsum milk and tightly stuffed with a wooden spatula... lasts for a hundred years.
Shniperson 04-08-2009 16:49
Moisture improves the adhesion (sticking) of foam in a liquid state.
ycb1 04-08-2009 16:54
Originally posted by Shniperson:
Yes. The issue of foam is of great concern. I agree with the question.For a hundred years our grandparents went to cesspool. This does not mean that a warm restroom with a toilet is worse.
Please don’t overdo it, someone asked about an affordable alternative to foam...
Ace_Odinn 04-08-2009 16:55
If you don't cut it frozen foam, then external smooth surface does not allow moisture to enter, it seems so.
And also better with moss Caulk all the cracks =)
Shniperson 04-08-2009 17:04
Originally posted by ycb1:
Under the influence of the atmosphere, unprotected foam is destroyed... draw a conclusion.
Draw your own conclusion.
And I will do it according to the rules: by covering the surface of the foam with protective materials.
Mower_man 04-08-2009 17:35
Originally posted by ycb1:
Under the influence of the atmosphere, unprotected foam is destroyed... draw a conclusion.
if exposed to direct sunlight (UV component), then yes, it degrades into dust. Therefore, the cleaned/cut seams are painted over afterwards.
unname22 04-08-2009 18:11
When these resins decompose, gases are released that have a nerve-paralytic effect. This is certainly not sarin, but the chances of getting out in the smoke are much less.
One professor from a research institute of some kind of chemistry in Ekterinburg told me this. The research institute building is not far from the UPI State University, we talked to them a few years ago about an old job.
ycb1 04-08-2009 19:49
I join this. There are no statistics on long-term use for ten years in wooden structures... different expansion from moisture, temperature, insecurity, unlike in panel and brick housing construction (plastering cement mortar slopes, but here there are only platbands, flashings... paint is not protection) I have experience in operating a 2-story building made of rounded logs in the hunting farm of the Tver region for 7 years... The foam did not pass the exam, only hemp rope, tow, somehow corrected the defects...
I wish Shniperson to learn a little, and then give me some advice... so no offense
Yep 04-08-2009 20:55
Originally posted by unname22:
I really don’t recommend using polyurethane foam at all.
Its base is polyurethane resins, which polymerize under the influence of air moisture.
Everything seems to be fine, but God forbid if it starts to burn... When these resins decompose, gases are released that have a nerve-paralytic effect. This is certainly not sarin, but the chances of getting out in the smoke are much less.
One professor from a research institute of some kind of chemistry in Ekterinburg told me this. The research institute building is not far from the UPI State University, we talked to them a few years ago about an old job.
and first, before the fire reaches the polyurethane foam, which is extremely unlikely, since the foam from the inside is usually plastered or covered with plasterboard, try to burn the polyvinyl chloride linoleum...
This is where you definitely won’t get out if you inhale combustion products containing ash-chlorine - what hydrochloric acid is made from...
and if you have plastic windows- then the PVC frames themselves will start to burn MUCH EARLIER than the polyurethane foam!
Nikofar 04-08-2009 22:27
Guys, what kind of PPU are we discussing? And with what foaming agent?
And then PU foams come with open pores - then they are hygroscopic... There are pores that are closed after polymerization - then they are hydrophobic...
Yep 04-08-2009 22:38
Originally posted by Nikofar:
And then PU foams come with open pores - then they are hygroscopic... There are pores that are closed after polymerization - then they are hydrophobic...
However, standard polyurethane foam is hygroscopic only during the polymerization process, when for polymerization the foam needs moisture, which it “happily” absorbs.
the pores are most likely closed - if the foam is immersed in water, it will not absorb moisture and will not sink.
there is also polyurethane foam insulating foam, which is used to cover the inside refrigeration chambers- I don’t remember how things are with her there.
Yep 04-08-2009 22:39
Originally posted by Yep:
That's right, the foam is not hygroscopic, and seems to have an open-porous structure.NO, I remember and clarify - the structure is closed, see below.
Egor 04-08-2009 23:43
...But can it be used in wooden structures?...
Very widely used.
Originally posted by Volkov:
...Somehow, from childhood, I remember that this foam is hygroscopic and, therefore, will suck moisture and cause wood to rot...
It's just the opposite.
Polymerized foam does not absorb moisture.
Modern foam has antifungal properties.
But only special foam can be constantly in the water.
Originally posted by Volkov:
...perhaps there are other convenient options for fixing windows in openings?
There are a ton of them, but such simplicity at a low price and high reliability is perhaps hard to find.
By the way, please note that before foaming, the structure should be accurately and sufficiently firmly installed in the opening with gaskets and secured with dowels.
If the rigidity is not enough, the window will pop up.
Excess foam, when it builds up in volume, can bend the wood, so all frames should be firmly and firmly pushed out from the inside.
The only thing that polyurethane foam is seriously afraid of is ultraviolet radiation, including reflected radiation.
Yep 05-08-2009 06:14
Originally posted by Egor:
Therefore, the foam must be covered with strips or painted with reflective, UV-impermeable paint or mastic.
This is not the best option.
The more thoroughly you seal the foam or the gap between the window and the quarter (and there are also idiots who tightly fill this place with sealant), the more likely it is that your slopes will turn black from mold...
According to GOST, the gap between the frame and the quarter should be closed by PSUL, which will release moisture coming from the apartment out of the slope and protect the foam from UV.
Volkov 05-08-2009 10:26
Everyone Thanks a lot, and unname22, and, in general, happy birthday.
The windows will be on cold veranda.
I do everything so that it is ventilated and the wood does not rot, so it will not be possible to seal the foam, and this is wrong, as dear Yep says.
Frankly speaking, the foam seduces with its speed and ease of installation. Other methods are more labor intensive. However, I did not receive a comprehensive answer, so I will use other options.
Yep 05-08-2009 10:31
Originally posted by Volkov:
The windows will be on the cold veranda. I do everything so that it is ventilated and the wood does not rot, so it will not be possible to seal the foam, and this is wrong, as dear Yep says.
Frankly speaking, the foam seduces with its speed and ease of installation. Other methods are more labor intensive. However, I did not receive a comprehensive answer, so I will use other options.
just on a cold non-residential veranda you CAN use strips or platbands to seal the foam - the fact is that the veranda most likely has a small wall thickness (a quarter is missing in principle), the humidity on it is minimal, and there will be no problems with damp slopes, especially if there there is ventilation.
all the problems with window slopes occur in residential areas where there is a constant source of atmospheric moisture - people.
Volkov 05-08-2009 11:05
But that’s right, somehow I didn’t think of it!
Egor 07-08-2009 21:55
By the way, the flashing does not seal at all, but only covers all the “beauty” of the foam seam and protects it from UV rays.
Usually they are installed BEFORE foaming on the front side, and the back part is lined.
Home▲▼
Sealing cracks with foam
To seal gaps from 1 to 8 cm wide, special polyurethane foam is most often used.
Embedding technology
It is easy to use and inexpensive, however, to properly seal cracks, you must follow the following technology.
Polyurethane foam in wooden structures.
It is also worth remembering that polyurethane foam adheres well to concrete and wooden coverings, but does not shrink on polyethylene and silicone. In order for the foam to settle on these coatings, you need to treat them with acetone.
This is done in order to prevent deformation of the structure.
What you need to know
It is useful to know that it is best to seal cracks with foam in the warm season at a room temperature of 5°C to 30°C and an air humidity of 60% - 80%.
Polyurethane foam does not tolerate ultraviolet radiation, so it is necessary to protect it from direct exposure sun rays. To do this, after filling the cracks, the foam is rubbed with putty or covered with special siding.
Work on sealing cracks with foam is carried out with gloves and glasses, since foam is an active substance, and the bottle is under high pressure (as a rule, one small bottle can contain up to 60 liters of polyurethane foam).
Good afternoon.
I live in Tomsk, recently German restorers came to visit us wooden architecture. When checking several houses restored by our specialists, they found a lot of errors.
How to foam windows and slopes correctly
And, in particular, when installing plastic windows in wooden houses, polyurethane foam was used for installation and thermal insulation. Their verdict is that a wooden wall (wood) with a given combination of materials will collapse quite quickly. Since I myself am planning to install plastic windows in a wooden house made of timber in the same way, I would like to know your opinion on this issue. And if they are right, how can this be prevented or replaced. Thanks in advance for your answer.
Sincerely, Alexander
The question is serious. I thought for a long time before answering. In addition, I myself installed plastic windows in my wooden house and also installed them on foam.
You shouldn't have let these Germans go. They should have explained this to you. I honestly don’t know of a more neutral material than polyurethane. As far as I understand, all polyurethane foam is polyurethane. The only thing that can be assumed is that the foam somehow accumulates moisture, which does not dry out and causes accelerated rotting of the wood, but even here I very much doubt it, since the foam dries well due to its porous structure.
And one last thing. One of my neighbors in the village a few years ago found some old wooden doors with frames somewhere at a construction site; apparently someone had done some repairs and replaced them. These doors were installed on foam and are still lying around in his barn. So I specifically went to him and looked at what happened to these boxes under the foam. NOTHING! Full order.
Thus, if your house rots in a hundred years, not a single expert will tell you why it happened. From foam, or from old age. Personally, I'm not going to give up foam. Maybe you just fed your Germans poorly, and they decided to take revenge on you?
I hope that among the readers of this site there will be foam experts who will express their strong opinions!
Wooden buildings are extremely attractive, both from the point of view of environmental friendliness and protection from the cold, and their appearance. Now there is a real trend towards building houses made of wood, and similar buildings, which were clearly not built in Soviet times, can be seen in various regions of the country. However, all the advantages wooden houses appear only if there are no gaps between the logs in their walls. And in this material we will tell you exactly how to close these seams using traditional and modern methods.
But first, I would like to go through the many advantages of such buildings, which made them so popular among our compatriots, and on a global scale in general. So, let's focus on the main ones:
- Environmental friendliness. Houses made from natural materials are completely safe for the health of the people living in them. Moreover, a person in wooden houses gets sick less, has higher body tone and vigor;
- Walls made of wood, with similar durability and strength, will be much thinner than their brick counterparts. So these houses have more space;
- Wood is a very mediocre conductor of temperature. Thanks to this, such a home is cool in summer, and heat loss to the outside is minimal in winter. Consequently, such a structure warms up faster, and less resources are spent on maintaining comfortable temperature conditions;
- Wooden houses are lighter than concrete or brick ones, so the construction of a massive foundation is not required;
- Wooden walls are very pleasing to the eye, so you can save a lot on finishing activities.
And this is only a small part of the advantages that such buildings have. Listing all or even most of them would be a very lengthy process. But already what is mentioned above is enough to understand the reasons for the newly increased popularity of the tree. It is important that much of the above may not be available if the joints between the logs are not properly insulated.
How our ancestors did
Previously, when there were simply no technologically advanced insulating materials on the market, our ancestors in their old log houses used moss, hemp or tow. However, even now many decide to use such authentic methods. Moreover, many masters still talk about their exceptional effectiveness. Finally, the advantages are that in this case we are talking about natural materials that are safe for health.
Moss can be placed in the cracks between logs without any additives. However, finding sphagnum in sufficient quantities today is not easy. As for tow or hemp, in this case ideal solution becomes the addition of a solution of gypsum or cement to them. Moreover, some craftsmen experienced in this matter can compact these materials into the cracks so firmly that it will be no less than challenging task than into the wood itself.
Modern means of sealing cracks in wooden buildings
There are no special means for sealing seams between logs, since sealants known to everyone are used for this. But for similar work Not everyone is suitable, and here's why.
Conventional polyurethane foam is not suitable due to the constant, albeit small, mobility of the logs. Thus, the foam will only begin to crack and peel over time. Silicone sealant is not suitable due to the fact that it does not absorb moisture well. And since the tree, as usual, does this very well, and also rots well, rot will certainly form in those places of the log where there are problems with sufficient evaporation.
All of the above makes such sealants unsuitable for sealing seams between logs in wooden houses or barns. And the ideal solution is actually to use polyurethane sealants. The latter can be actively used both inside and outside the building, as they excellently withstand temperature changes and retain their properties even in the most very coldy. Such sealants are excellent, unless we are talking about those sold in cylinders; they can withstand the effects of solar radiation without reducing their insulating properties even from the most serious doses of ultraviolet radiation.
What needs to be placed under the sealant
First of all, it should be noted that there can be very, very many seams in a wooden frame - several tens and hundreds. At the same time, there can be quite a lot of space between them. If you start filling it all with sealant, you will end up using too much, which will result in huge costs. Well, if you use natural ingredients, you are unlikely to be able to find that much moss at all.
All this suggests the need to find something to put under the sealant. Experts say that the best material in this case is a cord made of polyethylene foam. This cord itself is an excellent sealant, so it will not affect thermal conductivity.
How to properly seal cracks in a wooden frame
Let's consider the process of sealing using modern methods, since few houses have a forest and a swamp near them in order to bring in moss. While the same polyurethane sealant and polyethylene foam cord can be purchased at any retail outlets.
- First of all, we place a cord in the hole between the logs, trying to drive it there as tightly as possible;
- We glue the edges of the logs with masking tape so as not to stain them during the process of applying the sealant;
- It is best to apply the coating with your fingers. However, if you do not have enough experience in this matter, then it is better to use a rubber spatula, which will help make the insulation more beautiful.
Conclusion
Log houses can provide the highest quality of life. But only if the technology for their construction is strictly followed. Particular attention must be paid to sealing all seams, as well as proper processing of wood in order to increase its fire resistance, moisture resistance and protection from pests. We will talk about the last points in more detail in the following articles.
Due to the growing popularity of wooden construction, sealing seams between logs is becoming an urgent repair task. The methods for solving it are quite diverse; both historical methods of sealing and the use of new insulating materials deserve attention.
Renaissance of wooden architecture in modern construction
Throughout the 20th century, the architecture of private houses rapidly mastered various building materials in order to return in the new millennium... to time-tested traditional wood. Houses made of solid timber, buildings made of solid logs and rounded beams are not a tribute to fashion - they have solid operational advantages:
- Wood is a natural and “warm” material. In terms of environmental qualities and beneficial effects on the well-being of all residents, wooden houses simply have no competitors. It is pleasant and comfortable to be inside such a building, especially if the house is built from softwood logs;
- Impeccable aesthetics and durability. A well-built log frame will last no less than a permanent stone structure, but will look unique and recognizable, unlike standard brick and concrete “boxes”;
- When constructing wooden houses, the external and internal finishing is laid immediately, even at the stage of wall construction. This allows you to save significant money and effort on subsequent repairs.. You don't have to perform finishing a house with metal siding from the outside, wallpaper it from the inside and plaster the facade;
- The naturalness of the wood contributes to the elasticity of the joints; the mandatory sealing of cracks between the beams should not violate this quality. A certain elasticity of the logs and joints themselves allows the entire house to withstand strong temperature changes and ground fluctuations - buildings made of bricks and stone are more likely to develop cracks;
- A wooden house needs cosmetic repairs less than others. Maintaining it in an attractive condition can hardly be called repair. The biggest problem may be sealing cracks in logs– but they occur rarely and can be completely eliminated on your own. A log house does not require investments in laying tiles, erecting suspended ceilings, decorating rooms with plasterboard and other expensive repair “pleasures”;
- Wooden walls, even if they are made from the most massive beams, will be thinner than brick and stone ones with comparable durability and strength. This ensures a gain in the internal living space, of which there is never too much.
Naturally, buildings made of wood have their drawbacks, otherwise they would have long ago displaced all other building materials into the dustbin of history. Firstly, log houses have a significant cost. We can say that savings on subsequent repairs are included in the capital construction estimate. Secondly, you cannot build such a house on your own - you need a proven company with a qualified staff of designers and craftsmen. Thirdly, radically change the interior design and exterior finishing it won’t work, it will still have a “woody” orientation.
In addition, any wooden houses need sealing of cracks. Without such a procedure, drafts will appear in them, residents will begin to get sick, bills for the use of thermal energy will reach sky-high heights, comfort and coziness will collapse from the heavenly horizons below a narrow baseboard. How and with what to seal the seams between logs depends on the requirements for reliability, durability and the desired aesthetics of the joints between logs and beams.
Sealing seams between logs - traditional sealing options
Oddly enough, the time-tested methods of sealing joints in wooden houses remain optimal in our time. Our ancestors did not face the question of how to seal the cracks in a log house, because the correct answer grew in most forests and copses. This answer is called "natural moss". It perfectly protects joints and seams not only from wind penetration, but also from dampness. Another thing is that finding a sufficient amount of natural moss is not easy, and the sealing itself will be labor-intensive. When using natural materials to seal the gaps between timber and logs, a very high packing density is required.
It is checked with a sharp shoe awl - this tool should enter compressed moss or tow with almost the same force as into a massive log.
Tow for insulating joints in wood can be purchased at a hardware store. The purchase must be made in large quantities at once, because... even a narrow gap can “absorb” a large number of tow. Natural moss in additional funds does not require reinforcement - tow can be soaked in a liquid, flowing solution of cement or gypsum. Natural hemp provides high-quality protection for the joints between logs, and it looks attractive in appearance.
However, the cost of this material is quite high, especially considering the amount of work involved in the joint finishing of the whole wooden structure. Natural caulk for wood is optimal without additional impregnation. In this case, it can be supplemented with the following layers in a month or a year or two. Tow soaked in plaster or cement often crumbles and falls out of the cracks, and the work has to be redone. Tow, hemp and moss are hammered into the seams using a set of long chisels with varying blade widths and sharpnesses. The deeper the installation, the sharper and thinner the chisel blade used.
How to seal cracks in a log house - the possibilities of modern sealants
The main benefit of sealing joints in wood using modern sealing compounds is the speed of work. With the help of spray nozzles, the entire process can be completed in a few hours, while with tow or moss you will have to work for several days. A prerequisite for the use of synthetic sealants is complete shrinkage of the house - and this occurs only 8-12 months after the completion of capital construction.
Whatever sealing compound you choose, it will fly out of the new cracks within a month or two. It turns out that synthetic sealing is only possible if the house is non-residential - you won’t tolerate whole year drafts and frost inside it, right? Sealing seams between logs is categorically incompatible with polyurethane foam and silicone and polyurethane sealants. They are destroyed by exposure to sunlight and do not prevent wood from rotting.
Combining them with natural moss, hemp and tow is also prohibited; such a “hybrid” compound has unacceptably low strength. Synthetic sealant for joints and cracks between logs should be elastic, similar in consistency to glass putty. Selection the right brand It is better to carry out this in accordance with the type of wood and according to the recommendations of the company that built your house. If the builders advise natural caulk- alas, you will have to come to terms with this and engage in the labor-intensive procedure of protecting your home.
If you manage to find the optimal synthetic sealant for wooden buildings, then you need to use it in conjunction with mounting tape. By gluing the logs/beams on the sides of the gap, you can effectively protect the wood from unnecessary sealing. Excess applied sealant is removed with a rag immediately, without waiting for it to harden into monolithic beads.
For many years, builders have been experimenting in search of a technologically advanced way to connect logs in a log house with a minimum of cracks. The log should sit “saddle” on a log perpendicular to the wall. To do this, it is necessary to build walls with a shift of half the diameter of the log. Therefore, a log (from a log sawn lengthwise in half) is placed at the base, which is secured to the foundation with anchors. The bench is separated from the subfloor by two layers of dense, closed-cell polyethylene foam, each 6 mm thick. Polyethylene foam serves as both wind protection and waterproofing.
Use of polyurethane foam in construction and repair
Among the considerable number of tools in demand in Everyday life Almost every homeowner has an inexpensive and simple tool - a spray foam gun.
Is it possible to do without it?
I guess, yes. The reader probably knows that there are cans of polyurethane foam for household use. In this case, the use of polyurethane foam is possible without the use of mounting gun. But my personal experience working with such cylinders (installation seam in the photo on the left), as well as subsequent experience in performing work with a mounting gun (installation seam in the photo on the right) gave me the following thoughts:
1. Using polyurethane foam without a gun, even when performing work infrequently but quite regularly, is “more expensive” in terms of money, quality and time.
For example, when performing the work shown in the photo on the left, I used three household cylinder(door frame width 300 mm). At the same time, it is very difficult to ensure uniformity of the assembly seam and subsequent quality. The photo on the right shows the construction seam obtained when a foam gun was used. Assembly seam It turned out to be of better quality; one cylinder was enough to do the job.
2. Taking into account the price ratio (currently) for mounting guns and mounting foam, the issue from the point of view of cost savings is also in favor of using a mounting gun, since the gun will pay for itself after using three or four cylinders of mounting foam.
So, the only thing left to do is to choose and buy a mounting gun from the countless variety that are on the shelves, and at the same time not make a mistake with the purchase. But first, some very brief information for those who have not used this tool.
Note: this information is provided for the correct perception of the text material in the article. Basic structural elements mounting gun (and their purpose) are shown in the figure below.
foam gun photo
Considering that the pistol usually comes with instructions, the information presented above will be sufficient to read and understand the article.
Cover or “panel”?
Often, purchasing a plot with log house, the new owners are in a hurry to cover it with bricks. This strengthens the structure and makes it more solid. However, many people often make the same mistake. Without calculating that the severity of stone walls is not intended for the foundation of a wooden structure (which may not exist underneath at all!), you run the risk of significant shrinkage in the foreseeable future, which may result in cracks in the walls of the house. This also happens because it “breathes,” which means its walls can “walk” due to temperature changes in different seasons of the year. This is especially noticeable where the transition from season to season is very sharp. Subsequently, for the same reasons described above, it will be unsafe to try to build on a brick second floor. 
In order to avoid such problems, consult with specialists and carry out all reconnaissance activities before restructuring. By the way, cosmetic cladding of a house can be done without resorting to brick, but using modern panel materials. Plastic exterior panels are much lighter than brick, look nice, and protect your home well from rain and snow. In addition, covering a house with panels is incomparably cheaper and faster than with bricks. The main thing is to lay an air cushion between the house and the sheets of panels: the panels are attached to the sheathing, which is made on the outside wooden wall. By the way, in the case of a brick lining of a wooden house, you need air gap, which, meanwhile, is done differently.
Insulation of a wooden house
The opportunity to buy on credit has significantly expanded the number of owners of wooden houses. A wooden house is warm, cozy, beautiful, but besides good properties, the tree is susceptible to drying out, pest damage, and cracking. Therefore, over time it is necessary to carry out insulation work.
You need to start insulation with a thorough external inspection. It is necessary to identify all the cracks and holes from which cold air comes in, and then seal them. Particular attention should be paid to the corners - this is where damage is most likely to occur. 
You can use polyurethane foam or polyurethane sealants if you have a house made of laminated veneer lumber - this material has passed the necessary heat treatment, not subject to drying out. If this is a log house, then such a wooden house is constantly in “movement”. Therefore, literally in six months the foam will collapse and the work will have to be done again.
The most reliable and proven method for eliminating cracks in a wooden house is caulk. Our grandfathers used this method. For caulking, it is best to use tow and finish with hemp rope.
For eco-friendly types, dry bog moss is an excellent material for sealing cracks and crevices. The only problem will be to collect the required amount of moss if the amount of work is large. For log houses it is necessary to use interventional insulation, which is used as felt, linen or jute tow. For a house made of timber, the thickness of the insulation can be 10-15 mm, and for a house made of timber it should be up to 25 mm.
The next step will be to insulate the ceiling. It is to the ceiling that the air heated by the stove or radiators rushes. There it cools and falls along the walls to the floor. Good decision The ceiling is insulated using polystyrene foam. You can also use mineral wool.
When choosing a material, you should take into account that in addition to insulation, the material will block the passage of moisture through the ceiling, so the use of foil material is not recommended - this will lead to the formation of condensation on the ceiling and disrupt the natural atmosphere inside the house, which can lead to fungi. Any waterproofing should be placed under the thermal insulation layer, and not vice versa.
When insulating walls Special attention need to look at the windows. It blows especially often from junctions window frame with a wall. It is recommended to caulk the outside or use polymer sealants. If the windows are wooden, then periodic painting not only refreshes the appearance, but also gives additional tightness to the window.
It is better to use double-glazed windows. Glass must be placed in a frame, on silicone sealant. This will guarantee that cold air will not blow from the window in winter. Perfect solution- plastic windows. This is the only way to achieve complete tightness.
If serious insulation of the house is required, then they are used insulation materials (mineral wool, slabs of basalt fiber, etc.), decorated on top with finishing materials.
Sometimes a log house is covered with bricks, if the foundation allows. But in this case, all the beauty of a wooden house is lost. The best option- construction glass veranda. This will create a buffer zone of air while preserving the natural beauty of the tree.
Insulating your home should not be put off until the winter. It's better to carry out all the necessary renovation work in the summer, and in the cold season just enjoy the coziness and comfort of your home.
Sealing and insulation of the crowns of a wooden house.
Despite the large number of modern building materials, many prefer to use for individual construction tree. Wooden houses undoubtedly have their advantages: reasonable price, environmental friendliness, beautiful appearance. But there are also disadvantages. Wood becomes very deformed when exposed to moisture, dries out and cracks. Constant movements of the foundation, which occur at any time of the year, also lead to an increase in the size of the seams between the crowns of a wooden house. Ultimately, the wooden structures of the house lose their tightness and begin to let cold air and moisture inside. The problem can only be solved with the help of a professional wood sealant. Some people mistakenly believe that foam, putty, or any sealant can be used to seal wooden structures. In fact, selecting a sealant for wood is a rather serious task.
Wood sealant must have high elasticity. Polyurethane foam does not have this property; therefore, with subsequent deformation of wooden structures, they will not be able to provide sufficient tightness.
Silicone, polyurethane, thiokol, butyl rubber sealants and mastics do not have good adhesion to wood. They do not have the required degree of deformability and, moreover, do not match the color of wood well. Additionally, many of these sealants cannot be used indoors.
Accordingly, the ideal sealant for wood is an acrylic sealant with a high degree of deformability. Of the sealants presented in our company’s assortment, acrylic sealants for wood Atacamast 125 and Rustil-acrylic for wood are best suited for this work. These sealants have high deformability and excellent adhesion to wood. If you need to seal cracks in the wooden structures of a house, or fill the joints between the wall of a wooden house and window block, door frame and so on, then our wood sealant is the ideal solution.
Now let's move on to the issue of insulation and sealing of the crown joints of a wooden house from the outside. Let us immediately note that it is better to carry out this work after the initial shrinkage of the house, that is, on next year, after laying the walls of the house. Before using wood sealant, you need to fill the gaps between the logs with insulation. For these purposes, a Vilaterm or Izodom tourniquet of the required cross-section and diameter is best suited. It performs several important functions at once. 
First, it is a filler that reduces the consumption of wood sealant.
Secondly, the tourniquet improves the thermal insulation of the inter-crown seam.
Thirdly, a bundle made of foam material acts as an anti-adhesive gasket, which ensures that the wood sealant adheres to only two points - on the edges of adjacent logs.
Sealants Atacamast 125 and Rustil-acrylic for wood do not stick to the sealing gasket, because has adhesion only to wood. Consequently, if you fill the seam between the crowns with a Vilaterm (Izodom) type harness, then the layer of sealant will be, as it were, stretched over the sealing gasket and secured along the edges to the logs. Why is this necessary? Because without such insulation, wood sealant penetrates into the gap and sticks to the inner surface of the logs. This effect is called: three-point adhesion. If the logs become deformed, then the sealant that fills everything inner space seam, it will simply come off one of the logs and all your work will be useless.
It should also be noted that before starting work, the seams should be cleaned of dust, varnish, old paint, it is also better to lightly sand them. It is better to carry out work at moderately warm air temperatures (about +20°C). In very hot weather, the surface should be slightly moistened. To ensure that the seam is even, use construction tape.
Summarize! The main tasks that our technology for sealing a wooden house solves:
Elimination of seam leaks.
Protection from negative destruction of harmful insects.
Durability. Serves for 20 years.
Elimination of re-caulking.
Preventing birds from pulling away insulation.
Beauty and aesthetics.
Reduces heat loss.
Keeps your home environmentally friendly.
Thus, with one shot you kill 8 birds with one stone. A tube of sealant costs 310 rubles 900 grams, it is enough for about 15 m.p.
Features in the construction of wooden houses
Requires a different approach than stone. There should be practically no rigid fastenings in it so that all elements wooden log house had the opportunity to shift relative to each other during the process of shrinkage or swelling of the log. When designing a wooden house, you need to take into account the diameter and length of the log that will be used. A rounded log extends no more than 6 m, which imposes some restrictions on the layout. If you need a large room, then you have to make a false joint of the log, the so-called cross, which extends 20 cm from the wall. But, in principle, this method allows you to make quite large premises. Compensation gaps in a wooden house are also taken into account at the design stage. When designing, you need to be tied to modules specific to wooden house construction, - 1.1 m and 1.2 m (module industrial buildings– 6 m).
Based on the module, all buildings are calculated. Minimum thickness external walls in a wooden house for our climatic conditions are 18 cm, but it is better to make 20 or 24 cm, depending on the species and. The calculation of loads in the project must be carried out with the utmost care, otherwise the joists will play and the floor will creak. Shrinkage of logs in a wooden house occurs not only in the transverse, but also in the longitudinal direction. Transverse shrinkage is compensated by shrinkage of the log house, but in the process of longitudinal shrinkage, the ends of the logs at the places where they join diverge, and cracks form between them over time. Therefore, such places in a wooden house must be designed in place of the cuts so that they are covered with a thermal lock. Dowels and a tongue-and-groove connection do not solve the problem, because during the shrinkage process gaps are formed, which, after assembling the log house, you can no longer get close to in order to further seal them. Not to mention how they spoil the facade of a wooden house visible joints logs
Layout: bigger is better than smaller. A wooden house on paper and on the site does not always look the same. You may like a wooden house in a catalog of projects, but when it is built, the customer says that this is not what he wanted. For example, a 9 m2 kitchen in the project seems quite spacious. And when the house is built, it turns out that there is no place to turn around - such a kitchen is little larger than those that exist; in city apartments it is recommended to make kitchens of 15-20 m2. It is also advisable to provide three bedrooms in a wooden house - two for the owners and one guest. The optimal area of a wooden house for a family of four is 150 m2; it makes no sense to do less. Others, starting to build a wooden house, easily take on the role of the demiurge of their native monastery and begin to create. In 90% of cases, some changes are made to the project during construction.
At the same time, redesigning a project must be done wisely. Sometimes doing it the way the client wants is dangerous for the structure of a wooden house or directly contradicts the Building Code. If, despite admonitions, the future homeowner insists on his own, construction company, as a rule, makes concessions, but at the same time relieves itself of responsibility for possible negative consequences and takes a receipt from the client. Only a competent architect will help you avoid design mistakes. Of course, his services are not cheap, but the main problem not even in this, but in finding one. Especially for a wooden house.
Many companies can only sketch a sketch of a house based on the wishes of the customer. Then it is transferred to a specialized design company - it makes all the calculations and develops a working design according to which a wooden house can be built. Less capricious in this regard (at home Canadian technology). Even if mistakes were made during their design (or there was simply a desire to change something), they can be corrected during construction: the wall can be unscrewed, moved to another location and reassembled.
Two words about the foundation Most common mistake when laying the foundation of a wooden house, its design does not coincide with the design of the log house according to the project. In general, a wooden house is not very fancy in terms of foundations, since it is almost 2 times lighter than a brick one. Nowadays, many people build a wooden house not even on a strip foundation, but on a columnar one - along the perimeter of the future building (at the main points where the load occurs), pipes are dug into the ground and concreted and the house is placed on them. This can significantly reduce the cost of construction. Shrinkage, shrinkage, shrinkage To provide for shrinkage is the most important duty and the first sign of a competent architect.
It's no secret that shrinkage in a wooden house natural humidity happens for two reasons. The first is drying of the logs (shrinkage 5-8% depending on the initial humidity). For example, a log with a diameter of 240 mm may lose 10-20 mm by the end of shrinkage. The second is the collapse of logs under the weight of the load and the opening of cracks (up to 2%). Thus, the total shrinkage amount is 6-10%, sometimes up to 15%. Type of raw material Shrinkage Raw up to 7% (i.e. for every meter - 7 cm of shrinkage) Glued laminated timber 1% Visible shrinkage in a wooden house occurs during the first two years. Each floor will shrink by 10-20 cm. For example, if you built walls 3 m high, then in a year they will become 2.8 m.
And the shrinkage, invisible to the eye, will continue for another 10 years, but it will be quite insignificant. Therefore, when constructing openings in a wooden house for windows and doors, it is necessary to provide a margin, otherwise, when the house shrinks, the door or window will simply be “crushed”, the frame may become warped, even to the point that the glass will break. If in the corners of a wooden house the logs are joined “into a cup”, then at the notches of the cups it is also necessary to allow for shrinkage. If this is not done, then when the logs dry out, they will “hang” and gaps will form between them. 
By the way, SNiPs allow the use of wood with a moisture content of no more than 25%, while in practice wooden houses are often built from raw logs with a moisture content of 30-40%. In wooden houses made from solid wood, a device is necessary seat, gap, in window and doorways- from 6 to 10 cm. The building sits on these 6-10 cm. For laminated veneer lumber, these gaps are 3-4 cm. Glued laminated timber shrinks during the process of gradual loading; by the time the wooden house is finally installed, it is completely shrinked.
Wooden houses are alive, whether from fresh sawn wood or from laminated veneer lumber. A solid wood house, having finally dried and settled after 3 years, having a humidity of 18%, constantly gives and takes away moisture from 3 to 5%, depending on what climatic zone you are in and how the walls are protected. " Interior decoration it cannot be done in a wooden house in damp weather (especially in winter and autumn). The tree will definitely take 3-4% of moisture from the environment, and when it is turned on in a wooden house, cracks will appear.
In addition, a wooden house must stand: a box with a roof (but without windows so that it can be ventilated) must stand for six months to a year, then with windows for another six months. In total, you can move in only after 2 years." Tricks on the terrace Throughout the entire period of shrinkage, a wooden house needs to be "tightened." It's good if the builders made consoles and expansion joints - then once a year the owner himself can take the key and tighten it or call specialists from company that built a wooden house. Workers from hired teams usually do not make these expansion joints, which leads to negative consequences. Vertical structures(pillars, columns) - another vulnerable spot in a wooden house during shrinkage. A terrace is often built in a wooden house, supported, of course, by pillars.
Special anchor bolts with a power reserve of up to 10 cm must be drilled into these pillars, which must be tightened during the shrinkage process in a wooden house. Without this, there is a high probability that the roof will simply slide to the side. The same goes for columns inside a wooden house. If you install pillars without compensators, it will turn out that one half of the wooden house has collapsed, and the second is blocked by the pillar. And the wooden house will become skewed. The crews that built it are usually out of range by this time.
This is usually followed by a call to specialists from construction company(and they are reluctant to respond, since they have enough clients of their own who need to be “twisted” in time). As a result, due to the negligence of unscrupulous workers, a prejudice arises that a wooden house is bad. Do no harm... with metal In Rus' they have always built only wood with wood. If vertical elements were needed to fasten logs, so-called dowels were used - thick ones wooden nails. To date, nothing better has been invented than them. If a wooden house is assembled by non-professionals, they can knock down the logs with iron fittings. The moisture contained in the air and in the log house is quite enough for the metal to begin to rust (especially since the humidity at the bottom of the wall is greater than at the top).
In turn, this will cause rotting of the wood, especially the first 2-3 crowns. Therefore, it is better to drill the first crown of a wooden frame to the foundation with a stainless thread, and then use dowels. Or make the first 2-3 crowns from larch - it is so resistant to moisture that it is even used in shipbuilding. True, it is not cheap: there is very little of it in Ukraine and it is mainly imported from Russia. You can also attach a wooden beam to the foundation using galvanized ferrous metal. In wood, which shrinks less, you can use metal ties. You cannot use them in a wooden house made of rounded logs; you can only add them as individual elements. It is also not recommended to connect logs in a wooden house on one cut along the entire height of the wall in more than three crowns. In this place, the floors may sag over time.
In a proper log house, all the logs should be connected in a checkerboard pattern, intertwined, like a vine in a wicker basket. Only in this case will a wooden house begin to shrink evenly and be as strong and durable as possible. Nagel - it is necessary! The structure of a wooden frame is held in place by oak dowels, a hole is drilled in the log for them, and the dowels are driven into 3 logs. This makes it possible for the wood not to wander. Some people mess around and hammer in nails; when drying, it turns out that the logs “hang” like a kebab on a skewer. Connecting logs using dowels is a labor-intensive process, so workers sometimes don’t insert them at all. Improper fastening of the dowels can also cause the wall to sag (bend outward). And no polyurethane foam!
Wood – 100% natural material. The insulation materials placed between the logs in the log house should be the same. This could be flax, tow, moss (although it is more common in Russia, but is practically not used in Ukraine). As a last resort - padding polyester: it is a neutral material. But, under no circumstances should you blow foam between the logs - who needs an environmentally friendly wooden house with added chemicals?
Window cases In any wooden house, gaps are needed between load-bearing structures and enclosing structures. For example, walls, windows, doors cannot fit closely, otherwise they will simply be torn. If a wooden house is being built from solid wood, as soon as a window or doorway is cut down, it is necessary to make guides in it. A groove is made at the vertical end, 35 mm wide, into which guides - a metal pipe - are inserted. The window or door frame. They compensate for possible provocations of the log.
In practice, it turns out that cutting a window in a wooden house is a task that not everyone can do. When installing corner connections make many mistakes if grooves and locks are cut on the spot. Therefore, it is better that they are made at the factory. Windows are installed in a wooden house often using technology designed for brick houses: put it on a rigid mount, blow it with foam, cover it with a platband - and everything is in order.
This is a grave mistake, even if the windows are metal-plastic. "Application polyethylene film on top of insulation in the windows of a wooden house is unacceptable, since it does not allow air to penetrate. Instead, mineral insulation should be inserted into the gap between the frame and the window opening and then closed special paper, and then the platband is installed. Today few people use it, but it must be demanded. And under no circumstances should you use polyurethane foam.