Delphinium (larkspur, spur) perennial is a tall herbaceous crop belonging to the buttercup family. The stem of the flower is hollow and can reach 2.5 m in height. Thanks to its spectacular bright inflorescences, delphinium looks good as a background plant in group flower plantings. In addition to its beauty, delphinium is very unpretentious in care, drought- and frost-resistant, blooms again after trimming faded inflorescences, and pleases the eye for several years without the need for replanting.
Popular varieties of delphinium
There are many species of this plant in nature; it is not possible to describe them all. Below we list only the most beautiful and popular varieties, widely used by gardeners in landscape design:
Delphinium Leroy
A tall crop that came to us from hot Africa. The flower is very heat-loving; its inherent advantage over many other species is its magnificent sweetish smell, somewhat reminiscent of the aroma of vanilla. The stem of Leroy's delphinium reaches 1.5 m in height, the buds are painted snow-white, sometimes greenish.
Delphinium pyramidalis
IN wildlife grows in mountainous areas - this is what determines the plant’s ability to tolerate cold and frost well. This variety can easily withstand temperatures down to -20°C; the Himalayas are considered the plant’s homeland. This variety is completely undemanding when it comes to soil; it grows well even on poor rocky soils. From approximately July to September, delphinium produces inflorescences covered with small flowers, up to 3 cm in diameter.
Delphinium terry
The perennial is loved by many gardeners for its long and abundant flowering. This culture pleases the eye with its bright buds from May to August, the length of the plant stem reaches 1-2 m. The variety of shades is very large, blue and purple tones are considered the predominant colors. However, breeders do not stop there and develop new hybrid varieties. At the moment, in the gardens of Russia you can find terry delphinium in black, red and even yellow shades. This perennial crop can grow in the same place for 8 years.
Delphinium rarefied
It is a medium-sized plant, the stem of which does not exceed 75 cm in height. The Altai Territory is considered the birthplace of the culture. The lower part of the stem is covered with long hairs, the upper part is almost bare or with a short edge. The leaves are hard, pubescent, divided into uneven lobes. Inflorescences are loose clusters on the tops of the main stems, rarely on branches. Flowering period is July-August.
Delphinium Bruno
It is a heat-loving flower that does not tolerate frost well. As a rule, this variety is found in warm climates: in Tibet, the Pamirs, India, Afghanistan. However, in Russia, some gardeners plant this plant in flower beds, and with the arrival of the first cold weather, the crop is insulated with covering material. The height of the stem is up to 50 cm. The flowers are blue-violet or blue, collected in panicles of 5-10 pieces.
Delphinium tall
A herbaceous inhabitant of the Mongolian steppes and forests of Siberia. The tall, bare or slightly pubescent bluish stem can grow to gigantic sizes - up to 3 m, on average its height is 100 cm. The leaves are bare or partially pubescent, up to 16 cm wide, cut into 3 parts. The flowering period is only 20-25 days in mid-summer. The flowers are deep blue, collected in racemose inflorescences of 10-60 pieces. Delphinium tall is one of the most popular plants in breeding and has been cultivated since the second half of the 16th century.
Delphinium holostem
It is a medium-sized crop that reaches a height of no more than 1 m. The flowers of this variety are painted in a red-orange hue; the flowering period of the buds falls in June and July. This heat-loving plant is best grown in pots, putting them in a warm place for the winter.
Delphinium blue
undersized perennial, the inflorescences of which have a rich blue tint and a dark core. This variety also belongs to heat-loving crops, therefore, with the arrival of winter, the shrubs are transplanted into pots and brought into a warm room. If this is not done, then next year New seeds will sprout in the flowerbed, but they will not bloom until after a season.
Delphinium labiosa
A perennial with a completely smooth stem height of up to 95 cm. It has a very attractive and unusual appearance. The flowers of this variety are painted in two colors: one surface of the petals has a blue-green tint, and the second is grayish-gray. The buds are collected in a racemose inflorescence.
Delphinium kashmirii
The stems are low - up to 40 cm, with serrated leaves divided into 5 parts. It is distinguished by an unusual shade of the flower - light purple with a black center. There may be other colors in the culture. The diameter of each bud is up to 5 cm.
Delphinium shortspur
Refers to low-growing crops. The height of its stem does not exceed 20-30 cm. This variety can be found in Alaska, the Arctic and some regions of Russia. This frost-resistant plant, able to easily withstand winter cold.
Delphinium: propagation and planting
Choosing a place to plant delphinium
The place for planting the delphinium should be well lit, but with shading from direct sun rays at noon. In an area unprotected from the sun, delphinium flowers will turn pale and lose their decorative effect. Due to the fact that tall shoots of delphinium can be easily damaged by strong winds (they easily break off at the base), choose a place for planting that is less windy and open: under the canopy of trees or next to bushes, a fence, or the wall of a house. Delphinium grows well in loose, fertilized soils. On light sandy loams, flowering will be paler and less abundant. In heavy clay areas it is necessary to add sand and humus. Acidic, waterlogged soils are not suitable for growing delphinium.
Planting delphinium seeds in open ground
Seeds are sown in open ground in May or September (under film). To do this, make small grooves in the prepared soil in the garden bed and sow the seeds, sprinkling them with a thin (no more than 5 mm) layer of sand or earth. If planting was done in the fall, the seeds will undergo natural stratification and the germination rate will be higher. Shoots appear in 3-4 weeks.
Planting delphinium seeds for seedlings
Under indoor conditions, seeds are sown for seedlings in March. The soil for this purpose is loose and nutritious. After distributing the seeds on it, they are sprinkled with a 3 mm layer of earth and compacted so that they do not float up during the first watering. It is necessary to water carefully, preferably through a strainer. After this, the bowl with plantings is covered dark film or other covering material, because delphinium seeds germinate better in the dark.
The optimal temperature for germination is +10-15C. To speed up the emergence of seedlings, you can carry out stratification (exposure to cold): a container with seeds is placed in a refrigerator or balcony for a week at a temperature of +5C. After this, it is moved again to the windowsill. During this period, we must not forget to ventilate the crops, remove excess condensate from the film, moisten the soil in time.
Shoots appear within 1-2 weeks. It is important not to miss this moment to remove the covering film. Picking is carried out when there are 1-2 true leaves. Seedlings are planted in open ground in late May - early June. These plants will bloom in August.
Planting rhizome cuttings of delphinium
To propagate delphinium by rhizome, bushes 3-5 years old are used. Division is carried out in early spring before active growth begins or in late August-early September after the end of the first wave of flowering. The rhizomes are divided into parts so that each of them has at least one growth bud. The sections are dusted with charcoal powder.
In the selected area, dig holes 50x40 cm. The excavated soil is mixed with humus and peat, and poured back. Add 50g of mineral fertilizers and a handful to each hole wood ash. When planting, the root collar is left at ground level. After this, the plants are watered, weeds are regularly weeded and the ground is loosened. The distance between bushes is planned based on the variety and type:
✿ 50-60 cm - for tall hybrids (height more than 1.5 m)
✿ 40-50 cm - for medium-sized people (1.2-1.5 m)
✿ 30-40 cm - for short people (0.8-1.2 m)
Planting delphinium cuttings
For cuttings, young shoots that have reached 10-15 cm in height are used. In the spring, the cuttings are broken out along with the “heel” at the base of the plant and rooted in a mini-greenhouse at a temperature of +25C and bright, diffused lighting. After the cuttings have taken root (about 3-4 weeks), they are planted in open ground.
Delphinium perennial:
outdoor care
Delphinium is unpretentious in care and cultivation. Caring for it consists of watering, weeding, early thinning, fertilizing and tying up.
Watering delphinium
Delphinium is quite drought-resistant and does not like excess moisture, but during the formation of inflorescences it must be watered abundantly so that not only the upper, but also the deeper layers of the soil are saturated with moisture. Here you need to follow the rule: better quality than quantity. It happens that with abundant watering and intense heat, bald (without flowers) areas may appear in the inflorescences. The use of phosphorus-potassium fertilizers during the budding period will help to minimize such manifestations.
Thinning and pruning delphinium
In the second year of the growing season, the delphinium produces a lot of shoots, therefore, in order for it to bloom profusely with large flowers, it is necessary to thin out the bush of the plant. This is done in the spring when the stems reach 20-40 cm. 5-10 (depending on the variety) strong shoots are left in the bush. For better air circulation, first remove unproductive stems in the inner part of the bush.
Instead of such thinning, you can cut off excess growth buds in the fall. As a result of this procedure, nutrition in the spring will flow to the remaining buds, which will develop at an accelerated pace. If the shoots are removed with the heel (a piece of rhizome), then they can be used as cuttings for propagating larkspur.
In order not to stimulate the growth of new shoots this year and thereby not weaken the plant before wintering, in the summer the inflorescences on the shoots are cut off as they fade. In the fall, after the plant has flowered and its leaves have dried, the stems are cut off completely at a height of 30 cm from the ground. If you cut them shorter, the likelihood of root rot increases - delphinium stems have a hollow structure and after pruning in the spring, melt water easily flows down them to the rhizome. To prevent this, experienced gardeners cover the top of the cut with clay.
delphinium garter
Delphinium has its own Achilles heel - this is the junction of the stem and rhizome, which easily breaks in strong winds. Therefore, as the bush grows, it is tied up in 2 places: at a height of 0.4-0.5 m and 1-1.2 m. Varieties with heavy inflorescences are also tied in the middle part (0.7-0.8 m). Rings on racks work well as support.
Preparing delphinium for winter
Delphiniums easily endure winter, withstanding frosts down to -40°C under the snow. But the alternation of thaws and frosts has a detrimental effect on this crop - its root system is located close to the surface of the earth and easily rots out. In the absence of snow cover, delphinium bushes can be covered with spruce branches or non-woven covering material.
Delphinium perennial: feeding
During the entire growing season, delphiniums are fed three times.
The first feeding is carried out in early spring when the shoots have reached 15-20 cm in height: per 1 sq.m. you will need 10-15g of ammonium nitrate, 20-30g of potassium chloride and 30-40g of ammonium sulfate. Fertilizers are mixed and scattered around the delphinium bushes. Instead of these fertilizers, you can use mullein infusion (1:10) as a source of nitrogen - 1 bucket for 5 adult bushes. When forming buds, plants need potassium, but the nitrogen content should be reduced.
During the second feeding per 1 sq. m of soil, the dose of superphosphate and potassium is doubled compared to the first application.
For the third time (at the end or after flowering), only phosphorus-potassium fertilizers with microelements without nitrogen are applied to the spur bushes.
Delphinium: pests and diseases
Delphiniums are especially strongly affected by various diseases under unfavorable weather conditions: prolonged rains, prolonged drought. Therefore, the fight against pests and pathogens begins at the first signs of their appearance.
The palm in terms of prevalence is taken by powdery mildew. It progresses rapidly with high humidity and low air temperatures. Its signs are a powdery whitish coating on the leaves, which subsequently turns brown. To combat this disease, plants are sprayed with fungicidal preparations ( copper sulfate, colloidal sulfur, Fundazol, ProfitGold, Topaz, Fitosporin-M).
Another common disease of fungal etiology is ramulariasis. It is characterized by the appearance large number brown spots on delphinium leaves. With further development of the disease, the spots become light gray with a dark rim along the edges and merge, forming extensive necrotic areas on the foliage. As a result, the leaves die prematurely and the plant is depressed. The spores of the pathogen overwinter on plant debris, so they must be collected and burned.
If various black spots appear on the delphinium bushes, then these are signs of a bacterial disease - black spot. The spots form first on the lower tiers of leaves, gradually “rising” up the plant. The stems of the larkspur turn brown and dry out. Early treatment will help save the plant. It is sprayed three times with copper-containing preparations: Oxyx, Bordeaux mixture, Previkur, Fundazol, Topaz. Between treatments, the ground under the bushes can be shed with a solution of Fitosporin-M, and the above-ground part of the plant with Baikal-M.
Of the viral diseases on delphinium, it is often found ring spot, which looks like yellowish spots in the shape of irregular rings. Leaves become chlorotic. This disease cannot be treated, so the diseased plant is removed and burned. The carrier of ringspot is aphids. To combat it, insecticides are used (Iskra, Fitoverm, Inta-vir, karbofos, biotlin, etc.).
Another malicious pest of this crop is delphinium fly, which lays eggs in buds. After hatching, the larvae damage the flowers by feeding on the stamens and pistils. Damaged flowers fall off prematurely and do not bear fruit.
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Delphinium - perennial garden flower called king blue flowers. Of course, white, yellow, and pink varieties of delphinium are now grown, but such pure, deep shades of blue color inherent in the flowers of this plant only. Lush tall paniculate or pyramidal inflorescences will look impressive in a flower garden. Flowers with an interesting spur formed by the upper petals gave rise to another name for this plant - spur.
Genus Delphinium(Delphinium) includes more than 400 species of herbaceous plants. Numerous varieties and varieties of delphinium are obtained by crossing natural species, their common name is delphinium hybrid(D. hybridum). This is a perennial plant with strongly dissected leaves and stems up to 2 meters high. One bush of the plant can produce 10-15 stems with peduncles, however, to obtain large lush inflorescences in the spring, excess shoots are broken off, leaving up to five of the strongest ones.
Flowers at delphiniums Depending on the variety, there are simple ones with five petals and double ones with a large number of petals. The color of flowers represents a large palette of all shades of blue to bright pink and white. A peculiar fly in the center of the flower, white or black, gives it a special charm.
Delphinium is often grown for cutting, bright inflorescences stand perfectly in bouquets, preserving decorative look up to two weeks.
In the flower garden It is important to correctly combine delphinium with other colors. Its inflorescences stand out vertically, so delphinium is often planted in the center of a flower garden or in the background of other plants. It is necessary to play it up, for example, with decorative grasses or smaller flowers with the same bright, pure tones. Since after flowering the delphinium loses its decorative appearance, it is recommended to place phlox, astilbe, Turkish carnation, and aquilegia in the foreground. Ornamental shrubs will serve as a perfect background for tall inflorescences.
Delphiniums are blooming mainly in June, lasting up to a month. If after flowering you cut off the flower stalks without allowing the seeds to set, the plants may bloom again at the end of summer.
Perennial delphinium can be called both unpretentious and capricious plant requiring careful care. It is quite frost-resistant and drought-resistant plant, grows in one place for up to 10 years and over time develops into a fairly powerful bush. When caring for delphinium, be careful, as all its parts are poisonous; wear gloves when working.
First of all, choose the most suitable one for planting delphinium. place for this plant and prepare the soil before planting.
The stems of this plant are very fragile, the wind can easily break even tied inflorescences, so the planting site must be protected from strong winds. As they grow, the stems are tied several times, since the peduncles will bend and break under their weight.
Some varieties of delphinium fade in the sun and the flowers fade, so it is better if the area where delphiniums grow is illuminated by the sun in the first half of the day.
The soil the most suitable is loam rich in organic matter with a neutral reaction. Before planting, the soil is dug deeply, rotted manure or compost and complex mineral fertilizer are added.
Planting carried out in spring or late summer. The perennial grows over time into a large bush, so the plants are planted at a distance of 50-70 cm from each other.
Watering delphinium In the first year after planting regularly, the soil should always be moderately moist. In subsequent years, it is better to water the plant rarely, but abundantly, especially after applying fertilizers.
Delphinium grows a large green mass, so the plant needs feed about three times per summer. In the spring, with the beginning of growth, mainly nitrogen fertilizer is applied. At the beginning of flowering, feeding should be comprehensive. After flowering, the delphinium is fed with phosphorus-potassium fertilizer.
After the leaves turn yellow, in the fall, aboveground part the plants are cut off, leaving stumps 20-25 cm high on the stems. Most varieties of delphinium overwinter well, withstanding frosts down to -30 0 C.
Propagate delphinium on your own site it is easier to divide the bush or take cuttings. When propagating by seeds, please note that they quickly lose their germination capacity and are stored in the refrigerator until planting time, but on their own collected seeds delphinium often does not convey varietal characteristics.
To obtain a flowering plant in the first year, delphinium is grown through seedlings. Sowing is carried out in February - early March in peat tablets or small greenhouses. For seedlings to emerge, the crops are kept in the light at a temperature of +18...+24 0 C and high humidity. Shoots will appear in three to four weeks. After germination, the seedlings are transferred to a cool place with a temperature of +15...+18 0 C and ventilated often. Young plants dive into separate cups after the appearance of two or three leaves. Delphinium seedlings are planted after spring frosts.
Seeds are sown in open ground in May. The crops are often moistened, and shoots should appear in 20-25 days. The seedlings will bloom next year.
Delphiniums are susceptible to disease, in particular powdery mildew and black spot. To reduce the risk of their occurrence, water the plants at the roots so that water does not get on the leaves. The most dangerous viral diseases are cucumber mosaic and ring spot; when they appear, immediately dig up the plants and burn them. It is possible to plant delphiniums in the same place only after 5-6 years.
Tender stems and leaves are often attacked by insect pests - delphinium fly, spider mite, slugs.
Delphinium is native to Asia, Europe and North America- belongs to the ranunculaceae family. It has long and firmly occupied one of the places of honor in the gardens of Russian flower growers.
Thanks to its impressive growth and lush pyramidal inflorescences, it goes well with other flowering plants and is often used in the background design of mixborders.
This perennial plant has many varieties, which are usually united under the common name “Cultivated Delphinium”. They differ in height, shape of flowers and their color - from blue, light blue and violet to boiling white and pink.
Features of growing delphinium
Delphiniums grow up to one and a half meters tall and have a hollow stem. Even a slight breeze can break fragile stems. Too hot sun causes flowers to discolor. This determines the choice of place for planting them in the garden.
The plant prefers moderate watering and neutral soil. It is better to water less often, but abundantly. For good flowering, it requires feeding three times a season.
Pruning is an essential element of delphinium care. It also requires a mandatory garter to the support to avoid breaking the tall stem. The first garter should be done when the flower reaches 50-70 centimeters in height.
Important! The garter to the support must be done as the plant grows, every 50 centimeters. It is better to tie it with a strip soft fabric so as not to pinch the stem.
Planting delphinium in the ground
When planting delphinium in open ground, it is necessary to take into account some subtleties that will help the plant to take root well and then give good flowering and growth.
Planting methods
Planting can be done in three ways:
- Seeds
- Cuttings
- Dividing the bush.
Each of these methods has its own characteristics and difficulties. The basic requirements that must be met when planting are as follows:
- Select a landing site in advance, taking into account windiness and light conditions.
- In the fall, prepare the soil in this place. It needs to be dug up, weeds removed as much as possible and fertilized with organic matter.
- In the spring, dig up this place again and apply fertilizers, this time mineral ones.
- Prepare holes measuring 40x40 centimeters and up to 50 centimeters deep, located at a distance of at least 50 centimeters from each other.
- Pour drainage into the bottom of the hole.
- When planting, do not cover the root collar with buds with soil.
Important! After planting, be sure to water the flower generously and continue this watering for about a week.
Optimal time for planting
Both spring and autumn are suitable for planting, the main thing is that the young seedlings are not threatened by frost. Most gardeners prefer spring planting.
Soil for the plant
Delphinium needs neutral, fertile, loose soil. In addition, it is advisable to drain it well. In acidic soil you need to add lime (50 grams per 1 square meter). Clay soil you will need to mix it with sand, you can immediately add drainage in the form of clay shards or broken slate. It is good to add peat to sandy soil.
Planting in spring
Delphiniums are usually planted in the spring in a place prepared in the fall. Planting takes place when the last frosts have ended, usually by the end of April.
Planting in autumn
If desired, you can plant delphinium in the fall, preparing the ground in the same way spring planting. The best time for autumn planting it will be late August or early September.
To get a beautiful, lush and fully blooming delphinium, it needs care. If left unattended, the plant will die or, at best, will not bloom.
Location for the plant
The choice of location is very important for the delphinium. The place should be well lit, but it is very desirable that it be in the shade for two or three hours a day.
This place should not be blown by the wind, because even a flower tied to a support can break.
Pay attention to which places in the garden are the first to form clearings during the thaw. These places are contraindicated for planting delphinium. The fact is that this plant does not have one large rhizome, but only a branched superficial root system.
She even tolerates it well very coldy, but at the slightest thaw the roots begin to rot and rot.
Important! Avoid planting delphinium near shrubs or trees, as they can rob it of nutrients.
Caring for delphinium after flowering
After the delphinium has faded, you need to cut off the main peduncle, unless you plan to pick the seeds. If the peduncle is cut low (8-10 centimeters), then measures must be taken to ensure that the flower does not rot. It has a hollow stem and water can get into it, causing it to rot. Some gardeners use clay to "seal" the stem. You can simply bend the remaining stem towards the ground.
However, you don’t have to cut the stem so low, but only remove about 30 centimeters. It is advisable to remove all faded inflorescences immediately.
When flowering ends, it is necessary to fertilize the plant.
Caring for delphinium in autumn
In autumn, cut off all faded inflorescences. The stem and leaves gradually wither. As soon as the first frosts begin, the plant is pruned, leaving no more than 30 centimeters. Due to its frost resistance, adult delphinium does not require any shelter for the winter, but it is better to cover young plants with foliage and spruce branches.
How to water correctly
In rainy summers, delphinium does not require additional watering. If the summer is too dry, the flower needs to be watered 1-2 times a week so that the soil does not dry out.
Only newly planted flowers require abundant watering within a week after planting.
The delphinium should be watered at the root so that water does not get on the leaves and inflorescences.
Also, abundant watering is needed during the formation of buds.
The delphinium is fed three times during the season.
- In spring (second half of April) you need to mix superphosphate (60 grams for an adult plant), ammonium nitrate(10 grams), potassium chloride (25 grams) and ammonium sulfate (35 grams). The fertilizer should be scattered around the bush and mixed with the soil to a depth of 5-6 centimeters. You can sprinkle peat on top.
- Budding period (early June). You need to feed the flower with phosphorus-potassium fertilizer.
- After flowering at the end of August, I use the same fertilizers as in the spring.
Important! If you have difficulties making your own fertilizer, you can already use ready-made compositions for flowering plants.
Delphinium pruning
Pruning delphinium is a mandatory procedure for its growth and flowering. It is necessary for the plant to retain its decorative properties for a long time.
Delphinium grows quickly and produces many young shoots. If they are not pruned, they take a lot of energy from the plant, which has a very bad effect on the size and number of flowers.
Trimming methods
Already in the second year of the bush’s life, young shoots need to be cut out, leaving no more than five of the strongest ones. They need to be cut out when they grow to about 20 centimeters.
When the delphinium grows to 30 centimeters, its excess flower stalks are removed. Only two are left for the young man, annual plant and 4-6 – in an adult. Only the most powerful ones are retained.
It is better to thin out the central part of the bush in delphiniums.
After flowering, you can radically prune the plant, removing all the stems almost to the root. Then through a short time delphinium will produce new shoots that will bloom for the second time this season. In this case, the flowering, of course, will be weaker than the first, but it will still decorate the garden.
Important! Delphinium produces a second bloom in warmer climates. In moderate temperature conditions of the middle zone, it is better to prevent a second flowering, as it will weaken the plant, and this will affect its lushness in the next season.
Pruning for winter
For the winter, all stems are cut down to 30 centimeters and covered with clay on top.
Delphinium does not like to be replanted too often. It is best to replant bushes that are 4-6 years old. Some gardeners replant once every 3-4 years.
Transplant methods
Replant an old bush better in spring. It is necessary to dig up bushes that have already grown to 15 centimeters. With a sharp knife it is divided into several parts, each having 2-3 shoots. The cut areas are treated with charcoal.
The roots are cleared of soil and old deformed parts are removed. Then the divisions are planted in pots with a mixture of fertile soil, humus and sand. It is better to place the pots in a greenhouse for two weeks. And only after this the shoots are transplanted into the ground for a new one. permanent place.
After transplanting, new plants need to be fed and watered well. Preparing a permanent place for a transplanted plant is the same as when planting.
Important! Even before transplanting into open soil, the delphinium can throw out the peduncle. It must be removed.
Plant propagation
It is easy to propagate delphinium; even a novice gardener can do this process.
Reproduction methods
There are several methods of propagation - growing delphinium from seeds, cuttings and dividing the bush. The simplest is propagation by seeds, the most labor-intensive is by cuttings.
Propagation of delphinium by seeds
Different varieties can be planted from seeds available in flower shops. You can also collect seeds from the plant.
After collection or after purchase (buy them better in autumn) the seeds must be kept in a cool place for several months, preferably in the refrigerator.
They can be planted in March. To do this, prepare a container with a mixture of humus, fertile soil and sand. The soil needs to be moistened and furrows made on it. Delphinium seeds are very small, so they do not need to be buried in the soil. You can simply scatter their grooves and sprinkle a few millimeters of earth on top.
After a month, the seedlings are thinned out to a distance of about 8 centimeters from each other.
Plants are planted in open ground in May.
Important! Propagation of double varieties by seeds will not produce maternal characteristics in new plants.
Reproduction of delphinium by dividing the bush
At the end of April, when the bushes have grown 15 centimeters after winter, they are dug up and divided into several parts with 2-3 shoots each.
Delphinium propagation by cuttings
Despite the labor-intensive process, this method is very effective; it allows you to preserve the mother plant itself and its species characteristics.
It is better to propagate delphinium by cuttings taken from young plants. To do this in the spring, when the stems have grown a little (up to about 15 centimeters), you need to cut the cuttings at the very root. For quick rooting, you can treat them with growth stimulants.
Cuttings are planted in loose soil fertile soil in a container that can be placed in a greenhouse. If planting is done directly into the garden bed, it is better to cover the cuttings with jars. In this case, the plants need to be ventilated regularly.
Cuttings need light shade and watering. After 14 days they need to be fed with complex fertilizers.
Rooting of cuttings occurs by the end of summer, then they can be planted in a permanent place.
The flowering time of delphinium depends on the region where it is bred. IN warm regions it blooms as early as May and may produce a second bloom towards the end of summer. In the temperate zone, flowering begins in June and continues into July.
Delphinium blooms with very beautiful flowers, mostly in blue and light blue shades. Some varieties are red, pink or white. The flowers are simple, double or semi-double, forming long, dense inflorescences.
Problems, diseases and pests of a flower
Delphiniums can be affected by fungal diseases:
- Powdery mildew. Sign – appearance on leaves gray plaque. If left untreated, the leaves turn brown and die. Prevention - avoid getting water on the leaves or trunk when watering. Treat with 1% lime sulphide.
- Downy mildew. The sign is the appearance of yellow spots on the upper leaves and a gray coating on the lower part of the leaf in the same place. First of all, it is necessary to thin out the bush and then treat it with 1% Bordeaux mixture.
- Root collar rot. The sign is yellowing of the leaves and the formation of fungal mycelium in the root zone. The plant is easily pulled out of the ground, as its root system will die. It is treated with a formaldehyde solution - spraying and disinfecting the soil.
Viral infections:
- Aster jaundice. Signs: leaves turn yellow and flowers take on a greenish tint. First of all, it is necessary to destroy aphids as carriers of infection. Sick plants are destroyed; the rest need careful loosening of the soil.
- Ring spot or mosaic. Signs are the formation of yellow or brown spots on the leaves, drying and falling of the leaves. Slow growth. It cannot be treated and the plant is destroyed.
Pests:
- Delphinium fly. Lays larvae in buds. They eat the flower from the inside, so it quickly crumbles and does not produce seeds. Spraying with hexachlorane is necessary during the formation of buds
- Slugs. They eat leaves. Thorough loosening of the soil and weeding are necessary.
Popular types (varieties)
Princess Caroline
- A very beautiful variety with pink double flowers, growing up to 2 meters in height. Large flowers can reach 10 centimeters in diameter.
Pink butterfly
Delicate, butterfly-like flowers with open wings Pink colour and the low growth of the bush (no more than 1 meter) make this variety especially in demand in landscape design.
Snow lace
An unusually spectacular delphinium variety with snow-white flowers with a dark eye. This variety has a very pleasant aroma during flowering.
Delphinium terry
It is distinguished by long and lush flowering from May to August. The flowers have a wide variety of shades. Although in some places you can find delphiniums even in black, red and yellow.
Delphinium is not an easy flower to care for, but you can avoid mistakes in growing it by following a few tips:
- Delphiniums respond very well to organic fertilizers, in particular manure. It can be scattered under bushes in spring and autumn;
- The plant needs constant weeding from weeds and loosening of the soil;
- To prevent fungal diseases of delphinium, it is good to sprinkle the leaves with ash;
- It is best to collect seeds in dry, warm weather from slightly unripe, brown-colored capsules.
- Plant lifespan
The delphinium grows well in one place for the first 4-6 years. Then it must be replanted.
- Why does delphinium grow poorly?
Perhaps a dimly lit place in the garden has been chosen. The plant should be inspected for diseases or pests that are slowing down the plant's growth. There may be other errors in care that can only be determined experimentally.
- Why do the leaves turn yellow (dry)?
Leaves may turn yellow and dry due to diseases.
Delphinium, also known as spur or larkspur, is especially loved by gardeners - it is one of the few herbaceous plants for open ground, the flowers of which are naturally colored in various shades of blue. Planting and caring for perennial delphinium requires increased attention, careful preparation and consistency. Difficulties can be overcome if you use the proposed instructions and advice.
Preparing to plant delphinium in open ground
Spur is considered a capricious flower, the success of growing which depends on correctly carried out preparatory measures.
Landing dates
Plants can be planted/transplanted in spring (April-May) or autumn (from late August to mid-September). Growing delphinium from seedlings is the most optimal method, suitable for any region. Sowing of seeds is carried out two months before the intended movement of young plants to flower beds.
Yes, for the middle zone best time- mid-March, in the southern regions - the second half of February, Siberia and the Urals - early April. Gardeners in the south do not bother with germinating seedlings, sowing seeds directly into open ground. The first half of April or from the second half of September to mid-October is considered a suitable time for sowing.
Choosing a location on the site
If you choose the right place where it is best to plant the delphinium, the handsome openwork will show itself in all its glory:
- Good lighting. It is better to plant where the sun shines in the morning and late afternoon, and where there is shade at midday. Delphinium tolerates heat well, but the flowers of brightly colored varieties fade under the sun and lose their attractiveness and decorativeness.
- Wind protection. Most varieties are tall, the hollow stems of these plants easily break under gusts of wind. However, almost all garden flowers do not like drafty places.
- No moisture stagnation. Rain or melt water that is not absorbed into the soil for a long time contributes to rotting of the roots.
- Soil preparation
- The ideal soil for larkspur is moderately moist loam or sandy loam, rich in organic matter, neutral or slightly acidic.
Soil preparation
Clay areas are corrected: sand take 1-2 buckets/sq.m, mineral complexes - 50-80 g/sq.m, compost or humus - 20-25 kg/sq.m. Depleted soils are enriched per square: minerals - 40-50 g; organic - 10-15 kg. The acidic soil is limed, and granulated sulfur (30-50 g/sq.m.) is added to the alkaline soil.
- dig up the soil using the bayonet of a shovel;
- lay out a 20-centimeter layer of drainage;
- mix the excavated soil with rotted compost (1 bucket), ash (2 cups), bone meal (1 cup) and superphosphate (2 tbsp) per 1 sq.m.
The flowerbed turns out to be elevated, which the delphiniums like.
Selection and preparation of planting material
Spurs are planted by seeds or vegetatively, that is, by cuttings or “divisions” of the rhizome. The vegetative method definitely produces pure-quality offspring. It is better to buy seeds for sowing from well-known manufacturers: agricultural companies “Aelita”, “Gavrish”, “SeDek”, “Poisk”, etc. Cuttings and “cuts” are taken from 2-3-year-old mother plants.
Seed preparation algorithm:
- Disinfection in a pale pink solution of potassium permanganate, Maxim or Fitosporin preparations for 20 minutes.
- The treated seeds are washed with running water.
- Then soak in water for a day with the addition of a few drops of Zircon or Epin. The drugs can be replaced with folk remedies - aloe, honey.
- The soaked seeds, wrapped in a damp cloth, are placed in a container and put away for stratification (i.e., in the refrigerator). The napkin in which the seeds are wrapped must remain moist, but not “float” in the water, otherwise the seeds will suffocate and die.
- Stratification continues until the seeds hatch. Then the bundle is moved to a well-lit windowsill and kept under a phytolamp for several days.
- Then the material is sown in seedling containers or in open ground.
Another method for preparing seeds: after disinfection, they are wrapped in a damp cloth, packed in a plastic bag and buried in the area for a couple of weeks. The method is applicable at low (around 0°C) temperatures.
Landing technique
Successful germination of seeds and further care for seedlings completely depend on the accuracy of the technology.
Sowing seedlings
To please the capricious “king of the flower garden” with vigorous flowering from the first year, follow the following instructions sequentially:
- Determine the timing of sowing. They begin to sow in February if there is equipment for additional illumination of the seedlings, otherwise wait for an increase in the length of daylight hours.
- Pre-sowing seed treatment is carried out.
- Select containers for sowing. Quickly decomposing individual pots where one seed is sown is not the best option. The root system of the seedling does not immediately absorb the soil, which can lead to souring. It is optimal to sow in shallow seedling containers with drainage holes.
- On a note! A good option is disposable packaging for food products. If it has already been used, it must be disinfected.
- Prepare the substrate. Purchased soil is suitable: universal for seedlings or succulents. Mix peat, vegetable or garden soil, humus or compost, sand (2:4:2:1) yourself. The mixture is sifted, perlite is added (1 cup/10 liters of soil mixture).
- Disinfect the soil by heating it in the oven for an hour. Purchased soil is spilled with a solution of “Fitosporin” or “Fitolavina”.
- Fill the containers with the prepared substrate, tamping it lightly.
- The seeds are laid out on the surface, without deepening or pressing down.
- Sprinkle with a thin layer of soil mixture or vermiculite.
- Cover with a lid or cover with cling film.
- The container with the crops is placed in a cool, dark place.
Spur shoots appear by the middle of the 2nd week. Gardeners advise checking the crops daily from 6-7 days in order to immediately transfer the seedlings to a warmer place. The film or cover can be removed.
Seedlings are grown under the following conditions:
- moist soil;
- daylight hours 12-14 hours;
- temperature regime 18-20°C.
Seedlings dive at the stage of two true leaves. Place the sprouts in separate small glasses. The substrate is taken as for germination, adding complete mineral complex 2 tbsp/10 l of substrate.
After picking, the temperature and light conditions do not change. The first watering of seedlings is carried out after a week, if during the transplanting process the soil was abundantly moistened. Before planting in the flowerbed, seedlings are fed with complex mineral fertilizers(“Agricola”, “Fertika Plus”, etc.) every two weeks.
Attention! Root feeding; if the solution gets on the leaves, it should be washed off immediately with water.
Sowing in the ground
Direct sowing of spur grass seeds is carried out from the second half of April. For this purpose, a special garden bed is being prepared:
- the soil is dug up to a depth of about 30 cm;
- apply complex fertilizers;
- make shallow grooves, about one and a half centimeters;
- pour plenty of water;
- seeds are laid out in the grooves;
- sprinkle with dry substrate.
In order for the seeds to germinate faster and more easily, the crops are covered with agrofibre or a black (dark) film. The crops are periodically moistened, preventing the soil from drying out. The cover is removed after germination - at 3-4 weeks. During the first season, seedlings are watered moderately, fed twice a month, the soil is loosened and weeds are removed. In winter, the garden bed is covered with spruce branches so that the young plants do not freeze. In the spring of the second year, the young shoots of the spur are transplanted to a prepared permanent place.
Caring for delphinium in open ground
Activities related to plant care are not difficult, the main rule is regularity.
Watering
During the growing season, one plant needs 65 liters of water. When there is little rainfall in the summer, 2-3 buckets of water are poured weekly under each bush. More frequent, but less abundant watering is required at the stage of inflorescence formation. If there is a lack of moisture, some of the buds do not develop properly, and empty spaces appear in the inflorescence.
Note! Water the delphinium strictly at the root; surface watering does not benefit the plant. It is undesirable for water to get on the green parts of the plant - stems, leaves.
In late autumn, if there is little precipitation, water abundantly so that preparation for winter takes place without complications. After each watering, when the soil dries, loosening is carried out.
Trimming
The first time pruning is done when the stems grow to 30 cm. The flower stalks are thinned out according to the following scheme: for plants blooming for the first time, 2 stems are left; adults – 4-5. Side shoots of tapeworm plants are removed. Those growing up in mixed plantings delphiniums are left behind. Faded shoots are removed so that the plant does not waste energy on the formation and ripening of seeds. Before winter, cut off the last flower stalks at a height of 30 cm.
Top dressing
During the season, fertilizing is applied twice:
- early spring - urea (2 tbsp), potassium sulfate (2 tbsp) and superphosphate (1 tbsp) per square;
- before flowering, 1 tbsp. l. potassium and phosphorus fertilizers per sq. m;
From August, feeding is stopped so as not to stimulate growth and continued flowering, but to allow the plant to lay flower buds for the next season. To prevent the root system located close to the surface of the earth from getting burns from fertilizers, it is recommended to dig special grooves into which to pour the nutrient solution. During budding, spur leaves are sprayed with a solution boric acid(50 g/l).
Preparing for winter
After flowering is completed and the leaves dry, the stems are cut at a level of 30-35 cm above ground level. The internal cavities of the shoots are covered with garden pitch or clay so that moisture does not get into them, penetrate to the roots and cause rotting. Frost-resistant delphiniums do not need shelter for the winter; only young plants are covered. If weather forecasters promise frosts and little snow for the winter, it is advisable to cover the bases of delphinium bushes with spruce branches or straw. Experienced flower growers Before winter, they also dig grooves around each plant to drain rainwater in the fall and melt water in the spring.
Note! “When the stems grow to 60 cm tall, the plant needs to be tied up.
To do this, three pegs are driven into the ground around it and the flower stalks are fixed using a wide braid or tape.”
Reproduction methods
Like all herbaceous plants for open ground, delphinium can be grown from seeds, cuttings and “divisions” of rhizomes.
Reproduction of perennial delphinium by division
Dividing the rhizome of a mature spur is the simplest and therefore popular method. The age of the plant suitable for division is 3-4 years. Older or younger bushes tolerate the procedure less well. The division is carried out:
- in spring, when fresh leaves begin to sprout;
- in the fall, when the seeds begin to ripen (and new foliage grows again).
The root is carefully removed from the soil, keeping it as large as possible. earthen lump. They break it or cut it with a sharp instrument, leaving on each division a bunch of roots, one young shoot and one dormant bud. This is enough to young plant quickly grew green mass and prepared for flowering. “Delenki” are seated in prepared places. They are carefully looked after until autumn and covered for the winter.
Propagation of perennial delphinium by seeds
A description of the process of growing spurs from seeds is given above. Let's add a few words about collecting and storing seeds. Delphinium sets seeds easily, but different quality. To minimize the loss of time and effort on germinating unpromising seeds, they resort to the following technique: 10-15 lower flowers are left in each inflorescence candle, the rest are cut off. To prevent ripe seeds (they must ripen while still standing) from scattering, the peduncle is wrapped in a single layer of thin cotton cloth or gauze. Ripe seeds are stored in glass jars or foil bags at low temperatures. Self-collected seeds do not always inherit the varietal qualities of the parent plants; for those who like experiments and surprises, this serves as an additional incentive.
Propagation of delphinium by cuttings
For propagation, apical cuttings are taken. They are prepared in the spring by cutting out young 10-centimeter shoots. Separate from the mother bush at the very root collar with a piece of root tissue. Larkspur cuttings are rooted in a substrate consisting of peat and sand in a 1:1 ratio. Deepen by 2 cm and cover with a transparent cap. Conditions for successful rooting: shade, temperature 20-25°C, high humidity. The process lasts about 5-6 weeks. The cuttings are transplanted to a permanent place in the spring.
Note! “When growing delphiniums in groups, the distance between plants is maintained at least 30 cm.”
Diseases and pests
Black spot - on lower leaves black spots appear, gradually rising up the stem. For treatment, spray with tetracycline solution (1 tablet/1 liter of water). Powdery mildew - plaque gray-white on the leaves, darkening to brown over time. Plants are treated with a solution of Fundazol, Topaz or other fungicides. Ramularia - leaves become covered with small spots, dry out, and fall off. Treated with antifungal agents. Ring spot - appearance yellow spots irregular shape on the leaves. It is a viral disease and there is no reliable means of combating it. Plants are dug up and destroyed.
Phorbia (delphinium fly) lays eggs in unopened buds. A control measure is spraying with insecticides (Prometrin, Iskra) at the budding stage. Spider mite attacks plants when the air is too dry. Prevention and destruction of the pest - green soap, "Fitoverm". Aphids - plants are treated from the first days of spring. In addition to ready-made insecticides, folk remedies are used: infusions of tobacco, garlic, and onion. Slugs are most dangerous for young seedlings. It is optimal to use traps or sprinkle the soil with dry mustard, eggshell, hot pepper.
Remember! Most often, delphinium diseases are the result of violations of care rules or unfavorable weather conditions, such as: prolonged rains, high humidity, poor air circulation between plants.
Popular types of delphinium
More than 400 species of annual and perennial delphiniums are known. They differ in height, color and structure of the flower, and flowering period. Domestic gardeners love several species.
Delphinium hybrids
A group of tall delphiniums - from 1 to 2 m and above. The rhizome is short, the stem is hollow, erect. Flowers of irregular shape - simple, semi-double and double - form a cluster-shaped inflorescence. The flowers are painted in various tones of blue, blue, lilac, violet, pink and white. Flowering in July southern regions again - in September. Preference is given to the varieties “blue lace”, “winter’s daughter”, “King Arthur”, “Pushkin”, “pink sunset”, “lilac spiral”.
On a note! The “black knight” variety is very impressive with large double flowers of a thick inky color.
Delphinium Belladonna
Graceful plants with loose panicle inflorescences. They begin to bloom in June, with the second wave occurring in mid-to-late August. The flowers are simple and semi-double, color from white to deep blue with all shades. They are considered ideal for beginners, since caring for this group of varieties is easier. Prominent representatives of “Berghimmel”, “Casablanca”, “Lamartine”, “Piccolo”.
Delphinium grandiflorum
The standard height of the species is up to 80 cm. The stem is straight, branched. The color of the flowers is rich, blue, pink or white. The flowers are medium in size, the inflorescence is racemose. Blooms from the second half of July. The favorite varieties of delphinium grandiflorum among summer residents are “pink butterfly”, “blue butterfly”, “white butterfly”.
Delphinium field
An annual plant up to one and a half meters high. The flowers are simple, double and semi-double, in pink, blue, lilac and white shades. Blooms from June to September. The following varieties have become widespread: FrostedSky, QisRose, QisDarkBlue.
Delphinium tall (DelphiniumElatum)
A tall (up to 180 cm) line of varieties with dense pyramidal inflorescences, the length of which reaches 40 cm. The flowers are often semi-double, large - about 8 cm. Flowering occurs in the second half of June - early June. Blooms again towards the end of summer. The best varieties: “agenweid”, “finstearon”, Sungleam. On a note! In addition to those listed, Pacific and New Zealand hybrids are also popular, distinguished by their variety of colors and tall stature, and hybrids of domestic selection - Marfinsky.
Delphinium in landscape design
Slender, elegant delphiniums are used in the background of mixborders; next to decorative tall evergreen or early flowering shrubs; for decorating the walls of outbuildings and fences; to accent the center of the flowerbed; when decorating borders and ridges (low-growing species); on alpine slides (miniature varieties); as tapeworms in lawns or among ground covers. At joint plantings spurs looks impressive with phlox, roses (including climbing roses), and lilies.
Planting and caring for perennial delphinium requires some effort; it is not for nothing that it is called the “king of flower beds.” The troubles and time spent are completely repaid by the enchanting beauty of the blooming candle inflorescences. Besides, what you put your soul into, willy-nilly, you value more.