Build a timber house. Technology of building houses from timber

Guide and step-by-step instructions for building a house or Russian bathhouse from timber with your own hands.

How much does it cost to build a house?

For many Russians, a new gardening life begins every year with this question. After a newly minted landowner receives a plot of land, he will definitely face a difficult economic situation in our country.

The interesting proposals of many construction companies - to build any structure on a turnkey basis - may conflict with the family budget. Even if you give up architectural sophistication, building a house will be an expensive pleasure.

Often, the costs that will go into direct construction will be equivalent to the cost of materials for future housing. All economic calculations will rest on a simple identity: the cost of materials and the cost of work are equal. Therefore, it is better to build a house yourself.
The main difficulty in building a house yourself is ignorance of construction operations and the sequence of their implementation.

How to properly build a house from timber?

It's better to build wooden house. After all, buildings made of wood are very simple. In addition, this material is pleasant and easy to work with. Wooden houses have an excellent microclimate.
You can go further in two ways. The first is to raise money and purchase the entire set of building materials at once. This set includes

lumber for ceilings and floors,
timber for log house,
edged and unedged boards,
window and door blocks, etc.
insulation made of flax or jute,
roofing material,
glassine,
glass,
roofing felt, g
haul, staples, tow, etc.

The second way is to purchase all of the above in parts in accordance with the construction stages.

It’s better to go the first route, as it will end up being cheaper. In addition, many companies, when purchasing a complete set of building materials, deliver them directly to the site for free.

It is necessary to ensure that the dimensions of the timber, one of the most important components of the future house, are no less than 150x150x6000 mm. But, in principle, you can move away from these parameters.

Where to start building a house?

First of all, you need to go to the site, inspect the territory, find access roads (if there are no roads yet), determine the connection of the future house to the area, and the type of soil. The place where the garden house will be built is determined according to a plan for dividing the entire territory into separate sections. The position of the house must be agreed upon with the board of the dacha association.

First of all, it is necessary to draw a plot plan on a piece of paper on a certain scale, indicating specific dimensions and marking on it the place that will be allocated for the house. It is necessary to certify this plan to the board with the seal or signature of the responsible person.

Work on the site should begin with cutting down bushes, mowing grass, uprooting stumps and cutting off hummocks on the territory of the future construction site. For these works you need to have an axe, a shovel, a scythe, a hand winch, a crowbar and a sledgehammer. It is better to use a sledgehammer to remove stumps.
Once the area has been cleaned, you can move on to the next step.

First you need to determine the type of foundation. It's better to choose strip foundation, since using it from a homogeneous material you can obtain a complete, warm, durable foundation with at the lowest cost labor. And then you won’t have to do additional work on manufacturing and installing fences and lintels. A simplified method for marking axes should be used without using scraps. After all, cast-offs make it very difficult to dig foundation trenches.

When digging a foundation, you need to remove the soil that is being removed away, otherwise it will interfere with construction. The fertile layer should be placed in a separate pile; it can be useful in gardening. A very important factor is the depth to which the foundation will be laid. The depth of the foundation will be influenced by the level of occurrence groundwater, soil type and freezing depth.

A shallow foundation with sand filling the bottom of the trench is best. To do this, sand was always poured into the trench in layers of 25 cm, compacted and watered. Before pouring concrete, the reinforcement was laid on a sand bed. There must be at least two reinforcement bars.

Broken and deformed reinforced concrete lighting poles can be used as reinforcement. You can use a sledgehammer to break the concrete around the post reinforcement. Two pillars are enough. From one you can get 8-10 reinforcing bars, the diameter of which is 10-14 mm.

Before laying the reinforcement, it is necessary to straighten it and bend it at the corners. For this you can use two railway spikes. Drive them with ridges towards each other into a stump, beam or log so that there is a reinforcing rod between them. The rods that are placed must overlap each other by at least 20 cm. To prevent them from diverging when pouring concrete, it is better to tie the ends of the rods with wire where they overlap.

In order to protect the reinforcement from corrosion, you need to place stones, pieces of brick, and crushed stone under the bars so that the reinforcing bars are raised above the sand by at least 5 cm. If there is nothing to put the bars on, they can be hung. The crossbar covers the top of the trench and reinforcement is suspended from it. Then the trench is filled with concrete. It is better to purchase ready-made concrete; preparing it by hand is very labor-intensive.

Pouring the foundation

It is better to fill the foundation as follows. Along the axes of the foundation, metal rods 40 cm long are inserted into the uncured concrete. These rods are immersed into the base of the foundation to a depth of 20 cm. The remaining 20 cm form the base of the foundation. Rods are inserted at the corners of the foundation, and then after 1-1.5 meters between the corners. So the rods will be connected into one whole base with the plinth, and will serve as the basis for attaching the plinth formwork panels.

In warm weather the surface fresh concrete you need to protect it with moss, grass, sawdust and moisten it with water, or simply cover it with roofing felt. Then it is necessary to make formwork panels. To do this, it is better to use edged boards, the thickness of which is 40 mm. The panels will have no gaps, the surface of the base does not require plaster. To save money, you can use unedged boards.

After preparing the boards, you need to assemble boards of the length and height that correspond to the plan. When finding the length of the shields, the initial size will be the thickness of the base and the distance between its center lines.

The panels are assembled on spacers laid out on the ground in such a way that their smooth side faces the inside of the base. Using conventional blade clamps, the boards are pressed tightly against each other. Overlays are nailed to the shields, which are located at an angle to the longitudinal axis of the shield. The height of the panels should be 10 cm above the concrete pouring level.

In any foundation, the base at a height of 15-20 cm from the ground should have ventilation windows. They should be opposite each other on different sides of the base. To create windows, you need to put asbestos-cement pipes into the formwork, tightly fitting the ends to the panels so that concrete does not pour into them

Installation of shields begins with internal contour. Before this, pieces of wire are wound around the pins so that on both sides of the pins there are free ends of the wire, the length of which is at least 20 cm.
First, shields with locks are installed. They are temporarily fixed.
Then shields are placed next to them, the edges of which rest on the locks. The ends of the shields are attached to the locks with nails.
The panels of the internal contour, fastened together, are aligned relative to the axes of the foundation, and the diagonals at the corners are checked.
The upper and lower spacers are nailed, which determine the width of the base.
Then the outer contour panels are attached, their centers are aligned with certain marks on the foundation.
The nails in the upper and lower spacers are forgotten. The shields are knocked together. It is checked whether the installation of the shields is symmetrical relative to the center lines of the base, and the diagonals are measured at the outer corners.
Then we bend the nails upward, and the lower part of the shields is fixed relative to the axes of the base.
In the upper part of the plinth, it is convenient to place the bars of the plinth reinforcement on spacers. Then the upper part of the base formwork is fastened with ties. Scraps of reinforcement are laid overlapping and tied with wire.
In this simple way, a rigid structure was obtained that is firmly connected to the base of the foundation. Before pouring concrete into the formwork, you need to mark the top pouring line on the boards. Marking the horizon level of the base begins from the most elevated corner on the ground. Marks are made 1-1.5 meters from the starting point and nails are driven in along them through the boards. The height of the base will be shown by the exposed ends of the nails. They will also serve as reference marks when pouring the base.

For creating ideal surface It is necessary to make marks and constantly monitor the horizon using a hydraulic level. In hot weather, the poured base should be protected. The concrete needs to be kept in the formwork for about 2-3 days. During the process of building a house, it will gain the required strength.

Unloading construction materials

If during the construction of a house the entire set of building materials was ordered, then you need to think in advance where to unload them.
First, you need to remove the window and door blocks from the car. It is better to push other materials back, having first laid out unedged boards on the ground.

After the materials have been unloaded, they must be immediately sorted by type and laid out in predetermined places.
It is better to lay out the materials as follows. Most often, the foundation of a house is located in the corner between the property line and the road.

In this regard, building materials must be laid as follows: against the two walls of the base. It is advisable that the distance from the stack to the foundation be at least 3 meters. In order to prevent warping and sagging of the beams, they need to be laid on even pads laid horizontally. The bars themselves can be used as spacers. If there is a lot of space, then the stack is placed in a cage: one row is placed lengthwise, the other – across.

Boards are laid on linings made from scrap boards. A gap is left between the boards to allow the stack to “breathe.” Every new row boards must be interspersed with spacers. It is necessary that the planed plane of the board faces down. U unedged boards The wide part should be facing down.

All stacks must be raised above the ground by at least 20-30 cm.
When all the material has been sorted and laid, it will be necessary to cover it from precipitation with roofing felt. Important detail: On any lumber, any remaining bark must be removed immediately.
Approximate calculation of “related” materials for building a 6x6 house:
— 50 pieces of staples;
- 2 bales of tow;
— nails: 200 mm – 16 kg, 150 mm – 8 kg, 120 mm – 6 kg, 100 mm – 20 kg, 70 mm – 10 kg;
— 7 kg of slate nails;
— nails for external and internal cladding;
— 3 rolls of 15 m glassine for the ceiling and pediment;
— 12 rolls of 15 m of roofing felt for the base, for the subfloor and for the roof.

Floor and walls of a house made of timber

Now it's time to lay the first crown.
Before you put it down bottom trim, you need to apply two layers of roofing material to the base around the entire perimeter. To do this, a strip of roofing material is bent lengthwise and laid on the base.

For tying, smooth beams without cracks, jumps or signs of rot are selected. To prevent water from getting into the cracks between the beams, you need to remove 10x10 mm chamfers on the upper edges. It is better to connect the beams at the corners using a tongue and groove. The dimensions of the tenon should be 4x4 cm, and the dimensions of the groove should be 5 mm larger than the dimensions of the tenon.

Using rectangular or round dowels and 200 mm nails, the beams are joined together in a vertical plane.
It is better to cut curved beams into small pieces and lay them in window and door openings.

It is necessary to pay special attention to the antiseptic treatment of the beams of the first crown. Preheated oil should be used to lubricate the internal and bottom sides beams, while leaving the ends clean. The treated strapping beams are laid on the base and fastened together with staples.

After this, you need to immediately lay out the floor joists. As logs, beams can be used, which are laid every 1 m. If the width of the plinth allows, then the ends of the logs are laid on it. If it doesn’t allow it, then cuts are made into the harness, and the ends of the joists are inserted there.

For large spans, the logs are laid on brick or concrete pillars, which are buried 50 cm in the ground. The main requirement is that the position of the logs must be horizontal and the upper layers must have a single plane. For temporary flooring, unedged boards are laid on the joists.
Then you can start building the walls.

All the timber from which the house is built has the same length. But there are also window and door openings in the walls, so smaller beams may be needed. From one large beam you can get 3-4 smaller beams.
The beams are prepared for 2-3 crowns. A homogeneous, even layer of tow is placed on the lower crown; its thickness should be 1 cm. Tow is rolled outward on both sides of the beam by 5-6. The second crown is placed on the tow. Then the tow is put on again, etc. The beams of the new crown are connected with nails to the beams below and the overlying crowns. The first nails from the corner of the house are located at a distance of 30-40 cm. Further nails are driven in after 1.5 m.

Window blocks are fastened to the wall beams with nails every 2-3 crowns.
If there is no window block, but you need to assemble a log house, you can make temporary risers from edged boards, the thickness of which is 20 mm, and the width is equal to the thickness of the log house. With the help of these boards, the beams of the opening are fixed and fastened in a vertical plane.

In this case, the nails are driven through these boards into the end of the beam. When erecting the walls of a house, it is important to control the verticality of the corners and the horizontality of the walls. The beams need to be fastened at the corners so that they do not come out.

A very crucial moment occurs when laying beams over door and window blocks. To avoid pinching them, you need to leave a sedimentary gap, which is equal to 1/20 of the entire height of the log house.
Next you need to install the scaffolding. They are a flooring that rises 1.5-2 meters above the ground, depending on the height of the base and frame. In forests, flooring is very important. It must support at least three people. Its width must be at least 60 cm.

For the manufacture of scaffolding, any timber can be used - bars, slabs, round timber, edged and unedged boards. If the scaffolding sag, you need to make it double. The laying of timber can be completed when the height between the floor and ceiling is at least 2.4 meters. The last crown must be thoroughly checked according to elevation marks and diagonals and fastened with staples at the corners. Now the walls are ready.

Roof

There are many different types roofs: single-pitch, gable, hip, hipped, cross, etc. But in dacha construction the most common are gable broken roofs. Due to their simplicity and ease of installation, they have become very popular. These roofs will also allow you to build an attractive and spacious attic.

The roof is based on a reliable ceiling. It should consist of ceiling beams that are laid parallel to the facade. For a span of 6 meters in length, it is necessary to use beams with a cross-section of at least 150x150 mm. You can support floor beams using a permanent wall.

The distance between the floor beams should not be more than 1 m. Along the top frame of the log house, you need to mark the places where the floor beams need to be placed. Using a hydraulic level you need to achieve common plane and strict horizontality. All irregularities that stick out must be carefully cut off with an ax.

It is necessary that the length of the floor beams exceed the width of the frame by two cornices.
Floor beams can be extended using pieces of 50x150 mm boards. At both ends of the beams, you need to cut out quarters 1 m long, insert extensions into them, connecting them with 150 mm nails to the beams. Then, for ease of installation, inserts with a depth of 3-5 cm are made on the extensions.

The prepared beams are raised to top harness log frame and placed in places on tow and nailed with 200 mm nails. Liners are inserted between the beams. With their help you can fix the beams and protect the attic from the cold. The liners are nailed to the beam and to the trim with 200 mm nails. The finished floor is covered with unedged boards.

In order to correctly determine the proportions of the roof, you can make a template. It can be made on the ground from edged boards. It is better to make a life-size template. So, using a template, you can determine which one mansard roof needs to be built.

The next stage is the installation of the attic frame. It can be done transversely and longitudinally. In both cases, assembly is carried out on the ceiling. In the case of the transverse method, the frame profile is assembled from a U-shaped tie and 2 racks and installed on the desired ceiling beam of the house. The installed U-shaped elements are connected to each other by purlins.

The flatness of the walls and ceiling of the attic is difficult to achieve, as the beams may have curvature ceilings. Therefore, it is better to use a longitudinal installation method.

To use this method, it is necessary to free the right side of the floor from the temporary flooring. On ceiling beams The racks are laid and the upper purlin is attached to them with staples. Then the racks are fixed with braces. The frame span must be lifted without jerking; at the initial moment of lifting, beams must be placed under the run. After checking the plumb verticality of the racks, secure them with braces.

In order to facilitate installation, intermediate posts are installed under the purlins that are already raised. The same operations must be repeated on the other side. After the racks with purlins are raised and fastened, you need to tie them together using attic beams - floor ties.
When the attic beams are laid and fastened to the purlins with nails, you need to lay unedged boards on them.

Overlays assembled according to a template, ridge rafters, the crossbars are installed on the ties and secured with nails. Installation begins with the fronts, and then the intermediate ridge rafters are installed.
Now the attic frame is built.

House roof

This is a very responsible job that requires dexterity, knowledge, and skills.
We need to start with preparing the fronts. This preparation consists of installing two transverse and two vertical boards, the cross-section of which is 150x50 mm. A window block is inserted into the resulting opening, its horizontal-vertical position is checked and secured with nails.

Next you need to tighten the pediment with glassine. It will protect against moisture and protect the house from drafts. It is advisable to place the glassine strips overlapping and horizontally, and attach it to the posts with small nails or felt pins. Usually the pediment is sheathed with clapboard. It is better to sew the lower part of the pediment horizontally and the upper part vertically. This method is technologically advanced and very economical.

First, the vertical upper part is sewn up. You need to carefully ensure that the boards lie vertically and that the ridge of the catch fits tightly into the groove. You can stuff the catch, and then cut off its ends that protrude above the rafters with a hacksaw.

It is important to nail the drain board correctly. It needs to be nailed with a small bevel between the horizontal and vertical parts of the sheathing. When sewing up the upper part of the gable, you need to remember that the facing should always be with the groove down. It is also necessary to constantly monitor horizontality.

Roof sheathing

We can say that this work is simple, but it has its own characteristics. Firstly, it is necessary that the sheathing protrudes beyond the dimensions of the house. Such a protrusion should be made to protect the front of the building from being hit storm water. Most often, an overhang of 50-70 cm is made. If the roof of the house is roofing material, then the size of the overhang does not play a special role.

If the roof is slate, then the size of the overhangs of the gable eaves must be accurately determined in accordance with the total length of the sheathing. This can be done using a very simple method. It is necessary to lay two boards parallel on the ground across the entire expected width of the roof. It is necessary to place slate on them with the required overlap in a whole wave or half wave.

Then you should compare the length of the entire row with the length of the roof. The difference between the length of the laid row and the sheathing is divided into two parts and the required overhang width is obtained.
After the overhang values have been determined, two boards are nailed to each rafter. In this case, the width of the cornice must correspond to the overhang of each board. Then it is nailed along the board to the ends of these protrusions.

Natural stops are obtained for the intermediate sheathing boards.
The sheathing can be made from unedged boards, if they are nailed downwards. There should be a gap of 5 cm between the boards. When laying the boards, alternate the butt part with the top. It is worth nailing edged boards at the bottom and top of the rafters.

After the sheathing is ready, you should immediately sheathe the gable cornices. This is a very labor-intensive task that requires certain skills, because you have to work in hard to reach places and on high altitude. You can immediately sew up the cornices with shields, which can be easily and calmly made on the ground. After they are made, all that remains is to lift them onto the roof and make room for placing the overlays between the sheathing boards.

If the need arises, you can cover the junction of the shield with the gable boards with flashings. Frontal boards should be nailed to the ends of the shields.
Next comes the roof. On initial stage During construction, it is better to cover the roof with two layers of roofing felt. The rolls need to be lifted onto the roof and rolled out perpendicular to the ridge. It is necessary that each subsequent strip of roofing material overlaps another strip by at least 10-15 cm.

The first layer of roofing material can be attached with buttons, and the second - with wooden slats, which can be treated with paint, drying oil, machine oil or antiseptic. It is better to cover a roof covered with roofing felt with a galvanized iron sheet along the ridge.

The ends of the roofing felt that hang down must be well secured.
Now the house is under a roof. Next will be finishing interior work. This is the most enjoyable stage in building a house.

Interior finishing work

This stage of construction should begin with filling the subfloor. First you need to fill the cranial bars along the lower edges of the joists. And then nail the subfloor boards to them. This flooring is covered with a layer of roofing material and insulation is placed on top of it. How can it be used as insulation? mineral wool or expanded clay. Glassine should be placed on top of the insulation.

Finished floor boards are placed on the joists front side, and the nails are not driven in completely. After a year, you will need to pull out the nails, and turn the boards over and nail them down completely.
When flashing the ceiling, you need to decide where to leave the opening to the attic floor.

After the ceiling is lined, you need to move to the second floor. There, glassine is laid on the ceiling boards, insulation is placed, then glassine is added again and the floorboards are nailed.
After this, the attic ceiling is hemmed.

At the interior finishing stage, door and window blocks are installed and secured. They are secured with wedges in the openings. The exposed blocks with the walls of the log house are fastened with 100-120 mm nails. Tow is packed into the cracks, the parts that protrude are cut off. The gap between the wall and the block is closed with platbands. Threshold door block should not rise more than 7 cm above the floor.

When fixing window blocks, an inclined cornice should be nailed above the upper casing, and a drain should be installed on the bottom board.
We need to make a staircase that will lead to the second floor. The simplest design is the one-flight staircase.

The lower part rests on the floor, and the upper part rests on the wall of the attic opening. The distance between the steps should be 20 cm. First, materials for the bowstring, railings and steps are prepared. To make a bowstring, it is better to purchase lumber with a cross-section of 60x200 mm.
For the steps it is necessary to select dry material with a thickness of at least 50 mm. Their length is at least 800 mm. The ends of the steps and their length must be identical.

The steps are laid on bars with a cross-section of 5x5 cm and fastened with 100 mm nails to the strings. The contact points of the staircase to the attic and to the floor are determined. Cuts are made, and the necessary workpiece is obtained, which fits tightly to the wall and floor.

The second string is cut out from this blank. Both strings are combined, and marks for future steps are applied on the outer edges. The bars are nailed to these marks, and then the steps. The steps on the outside of the bowstring are nailed with nails with decorative hats.

It makes no sense to tell the reader about the advantages of buildings made of wood - enough has been written about this. But not every product allows you to build a house from scratch with your own hands. Working with a log, even a rounded one, requires not only practical experience, but also certain knowledge. In this regard, timber is preferable, which is why it is so popular among individual developers, especially since self-construction will cost much less than a turnkey order.

From the author’s point of view, many manuals describing installation contain almost everything - diagrams, recommendations, examples standard projects. But this is overlooked important point, as the choice of timber. Its range is quite large (if you take into account the difference in cross-section), and without knowing some of the nuances, you can significantly complicate the process of constructing a building with your own hands. Therefore, before understanding the technology of building a house from timber, you need to decide on the material itself.

Manufacturing features influence the characteristics of the finished product and determine the specifics of working with workpieces. Not the price, but everything listed below should become a criterion when choosing. Ignoring this information will directly affect the final result, and not for the better.

Brief description of varieties

1. Planed.

This is nothing more than a log, cut to length on all sides, the profile is a square or rectangle. Among analogues, this option is the cheapest, but when purchasing it for construction, you need to take into account that a number of difficulties will arise.

In accordance with the requirements of SNiP, the use of wood with a moisture content of more than 20% (for glued elements - 15%) is not allowed in construction.

You will have to dry the timber yourself. Without knowing all the intricacies of the technology, it is unlikely to be done correctly.
You will have to wait and start construction after some time (depending on local conditions, this period may drag on for a long time).
You will need space on the site for storage. Plus additional expenses for covering material, slats and the like.
Initially, such timber does not have strict geometry. Its pruning is done “roughly”, often using worn-out equipment. Considering how many cracks will appear after installation (and the workpieces will also “lead” during the process of self-drying), it is really possible to build warm house made from planed timber is quite problematic.

2. Profiled.

It differs in that there are “samples” on both sides - tenons and grooves or a “comb” (wave). In the latter case, there will be no need to install insulation during construction.

To ensure that the matches of the protrusions and recesses are as accurate as possible, you need to use products from the same batch for the entire building. Therefore, before purchasing material for a house made of profiled timber, it is necessary not only to make a correct calculation of its required quantity, but also to determine the reserve (about 10%).

Such products can be like natural humidity, and dried under production conditions. The latter option is preferable, as it will allow you to build a house that meets all the criteria for a cozy home with your own hands, even without construction experience. Shrinkage does not exceed 5%, so in some cases finishing and arrangement are not delayed.

3. Glued.

Building a house from this type of timber yourself is quite simple, since the process is reminiscent of assembling a construction set. If it is certified, then the maximum shrinkage is 1%. Consequently, some types of work (laying communications, attaching attachments) can be carried out in parallel. Do-it-yourself construction has many benefits, and once you consider them, the high cost won't seem too daunting.

Firstly, you can move into such a house made of timber immediately.
Secondly, saving money on materials (insulation, cladding).
Thirdly, saving money. The technology of building a house is so simple that paid services various masters and in principle you won’t need consultants - you can do all the work yourself, and according to any scheme (project).

When choosing laminated veneer lumber yourself or ordering turnkey construction, you need to focus on a number of points:

all lamellas should be the same thickness, and their optimal number is 5;
they must have a uniform shade. There is a timber whose top boards are made of one type of wood (for example, cedar), and the “inside” is made of low-grade wood. Build really good house will not work.

1. In relation to our climate, the optimal cross-section for a house made of timber is 150 x 150 (or 100 x 150).

2. It is advisable to build with coniferous materials, as they are more resistant to moisture.

3. Annual rings on the end parts should be evenly spaced. Asymmetry is a sign that shrinkage will lead to axial distortions (twisting).

4. The quality of construction largely depends on the correct geometry of the workpieces. It is difficult to determine this visually when storing products, but to ensure the evenness of the products, it is enough to lay 2 beams from the batch side by side - all the bends will immediately become visible.

Step-by-step construction instructions

It should be considered as a recommendation. The fact is that it can be built in different ways, since there are differences in projects (even when ordering on a turnkey basis), in laying schemes, fastening of timber and other nuances. This guide will give only practical advice to a master who has decided to do everything with his own hands.

1. Foundation.

You can build a house from timber using any type of timber. The choice of the optimal option is determined by local conditions; it makes no sense to provide unambiguous instructions for this stage. But there are a number of recommendations:

The lower crown must be raised above the ground by at least half a meter.
If the foundation is built on piles (pillars), then it is advisable to arrange a grillage, that is, to close the “gap” between the ground and the structure.
Even during the process of pouring the solution, it is necessary to install fastening elements (pins) onto which the lower crown beam is “fitted.”
At self-installation The knitting of the frame is literally done with your own hands, but it is better not to use welding. Thermal impact destroys the structure of the material, and if a plastic rod is used, then this technology is not suitable by definition.
Regardless of how and what the reinforcement is knitted with, in the corners and in places of sharp bends of the tape, the frame elements are connected only with metal fasteners (wire, staples, clamps).

We must not forget that construction from timber involves protecting the wood from direct contact with liquids. Therefore, the building needs to be “raised.” And this is not to mention the fact that few people are happy with the prospect of a garbage dump forming under a house made of timber. For a strip-type base, in order to save money, you can lay out the so-called “zero” (0.5 m) of brick (preferably ceramic).

2. Lower crown.

Perhaps this is the main point when building a house from timber with your own hands. Both the final result and the complexity of independent construction depend on how accurately and correctly such work is done.

The main requirement is geometry accuracy. Even if the contour of the tape is not a rectangle, some symmetry distortions can be eliminated yourself correct installation timber (possibly offset relative to the axis of the foundation). In addition, all upper cuts of the workpieces must lie in the same plane (horizontal). It is the construction level at this stage - chief assistant masters

When independently purchasing material for a house made of timber, regardless of the project for which it was decided to build it, it is advisable to choose larch for the lower crown. During use, it only becomes stronger, even when absorbing liquids.

3. Construction of walls.

The work is carried out from the lower crown upward - this is understandable. The only question is how to fasten the workpieces. To build a truly durable house, regardless of the connection scheme, in the corners, as well as at the junctions of walls, for high-quality fixation of elements, you need to use additional fasteners - dowels.

To ensure that there are fewer joints, even when drawing up the project, the linear parameters of the house are selected so that as much timber as possible is laid in one piece, without trimming the pieces. When determining optimal length Convenience of transportation must also be taken into account.

It is mounted according to various schemes. But experts recommend choosing wood of the same species as the timber for the rafter system.

Everything else - door and window openings, flooring, “finishing” finishing (if intended) is done at the discretion of the owner. It is independently determined with both materials and technology, so there are no specific instructions.

Is it possible to build a house from timber with your own hands? Cast aside doubts - this is quite within the capabilities of a person who knows how to handle carpentry tools. It is very easy to use, economical and environmentally friendly. It's pretty universal material. From timber you can build a wonderful summer house on summer cottage, and if it is additionally insulated, then it will be possible to live in winter.

How to build a house from timber? Like any business. Everything starts with a dream. It is necessary to make a house design and begin construction. When designing a project, it will be better to stick to rectangular shapes.

How quickly the house will be built largely depends on the timber you purchase for construction. If everything is in order with your finances, you can buy glued or dried timber. It will take much less time to build a house made of laminated veneer lumber. If you purchase raw timber, it will take much more time. Having erected the frame, you will need to let it dry. It will take about a year. Only when the shrinkage of his house occurs can construction be completed. By choosing the second option, you lose time, but significantly save money.

Every house stands on a foundation. A house made of timber is no exception. His choice must be taken seriously, taking into account the landscape of the area and the type of soil. Foundations can be strip or columnar. The tape type is considered more preferable. It is somewhat more expensive than the columnar one, but more reliable and durable. With this type of foundation it is possible to build a cellar. And this is an undoubted convenience of any home.

Construction of walls and roof

The construction of walls from timber is no different from the assembly of a construction set. The use of profiled timber will significantly improve thermal insulation. Corner joints are made in two ways: “in the head” and “in the paw”. The connection “in the oblo” is that the ends of the beam extend beyond the plane of the walls. If in the future you are thinking of decorating the house, then you should not make a “blind” connection.

The walls are based on laying out the first crown. The first crown is no less important than the foundation. It is necessary to cover the foundation with waterproofing and carefully level it horizontally. It doesn't matter which way corner connections you will do in the future. Always connect the first crown at the corners “in half a tree”. Then the connections are fastened with dowels, covered with a sealant, and then the rest of the crowns are laid out. Each subsequent row must be supplied, in mandatory, seal. Moss or tow is usually used as a sealant.

Along with the first crown, the foundation of the floor is laid. It's better to do it double. A layer of insulation will make the floor warm. At the second stage of construction, after the house has settled, the finishing floor is laid.

Nageli

Dowels play an important role in the process of assembling timber walls. Their task is to connect the beams together and prevent them from twisting. Pins are most often made with a diameter of 3–4 centimeters from oak or birch wood. Instead of wooden dowels, it is possible to use a metal tube, but this is quite expensive. 3 beams are drilled for dowels through hole they are inserted into the depths in a checkerboard pattern and without effort. Instead of wooden and metal dowels, it is possible to use 25-30 centimeter nails. In this case, we must remember that its cap must be recessed 3-4 centimeters deep into the beam, since shrinkage of a house built from timber is inevitable.

Roof

Often the second floor is planned as an attic, and this requires roof insulation. There are two ways here:

Install a temporary roof by covering it with roofing felt and waiting for the house to shrink for a year. After a year, build the final version of the roof of the house from timber.
in the first year, complete its construction: installing steam and waterproofing, insulation and roofing material for the roof.

With the second option, additional costs in the form of roofing material, but an undoubted gain in time - we move into a new home.

Main mistakes during construction

Building a house from timber with your own hands requires a lot of courage. This is no joke and usually a person trusts it to a construction company with a good reputation. If the decision is made to build on our own, then it is necessary to provide for everything possible mistakes. As in every business, there are pitfalls here.

Saving on foundation

The foundation of any home is the foundation. At the stage of its installation, it is necessary to strictly adhere to all accepted construction and technical standards. Any attempts to save money can lead to the destruction of the house. A foundation built with deviations from established rules can “revenge” by subsidence, the occurrence of micro and macro cracks and the destruction of walls. Subsequent repairs will wipe out all your savings.

Therefore, contact an experienced designer. He will do the project and produce everything technical calculations. Only in this case can you be sure that the house will stand and delight your family.

Design errors

When independently calculating a project, there is a risk of unprofessional design. For the same reason, one should not very much demand from the project developer significant savings in construction. It has been established through repeated experience that the attic provides a large increase in living space, but does not lead to a significant increase in construction costs.

By including a basement in a house construction project, you do not significantly increase its cost, but you significantly improve the quality of life in this home. Try to make the house proportional. Abundance of small rooms in big house and vice versa will make living there not very comfortable. Consider zoning in advance. You, most likely, will not really like it when smells from the kitchen hover in your bedroom.

Other errors

Selection of roofing materials for the roof. In this matter, it is necessary to combine our desires with the compatibility of all other types of building materials. The design of the roof itself and the climatic conditions of the building site must be taken into account.

Errors in the engineering equipment of the house and its electrification. Before installing various installations that ensure comfort in your home, contact your energy authority. They will tell you maximum power electricity consumption in the house. By violating this construction point, you are putting the lives of your loved ones in danger.

Landscape design. There is no need to consider the landscape of the site as something secondary. Thinking through it must be done simultaneously with the design of all buildings located on the site. This will create a single ensemble of home and nature. It will help to provide lighting for rooms in advance and accurately comply with all land regulations.

Mistakes in choosing stairs. An important point in arranging a house with an attic is the choice of stairs. For a private home, you should not choose a staircase less than 35 cm wide. A staircase angle of more than 30 degrees is not convenient for older members of your family. Keep in mind that it is advisable to make the dimensions of the staircase large. This will make it easier to lift things to the second floor of the house. Think carefully about the installation location of the ladder itself. If you make a mistake with his choice, then doing so in the future will be problematic.

Poor quality treatment with antipyretics and antiseptics. Your house is watered by rain, dried out by the sun, various molds, fungi and microorganisms attack your home day and night. All this brings harm to the house made of timber. Take care of him. Do not forget to conduct a comprehensive and high-quality processing antipyretic and antiseptic solutions for all lumber. This work will need to be carried out every year. Carefully treat all areas of the house where wood comes into contact with concrete or is exposed to precipitation.

Take your time installing doors, windows, and interior decoration. Keep in mind that in a wooden house, doors and windows are installed in a special way. For this purpose, a special installation method has been developed to prevent breakage and distortion of windows and doors. It is somewhat different from the usual way of producing such work. For houses in the construction of which timber with natural moisture was used, before starting interior decoration of the house and installing doors and windows, it is necessary to wait until the timber has dried and the house has settled. This process usually lasts from 9 to 12 months.

Video How to build a house from timber with your own hands

The decision to build a house from timber is not made immediately or suddenly. It’s just that this technology, with a simpler assembly of walls, allows you to obtain excellent characteristics for housing: for the Moscow region, timber 195 mm thick is sufficient. With such a thickness of the external walls it will be warm, but to save on heating it is better to insulate it (10 mm mineral wool on the outside) and make a reversible façade. Then there will also be savings on heating.

Plasticity in processing is one of the advantages of wood

Which wood to choose

Coniferous wood is usually used to build a house. There are several reasons. Firstly, the increased content of resins, which are natural preservatives and antiseptics. Thanks to their presence, wood does not deteriorate for a long time. Secondly, affordable price. You can, of course, build a house from beech or oak beams, but the price will be simply exorbitant. Thirdly, the wood is soft and easy to process.

Of all the coniferous species, a house is most often built from pine beams. With good characteristics, it is relatively inexpensive. Houses made of larch and cedar are rarely built: they are too expensive. Spruce is even rarer, but for a different reason: it deteriorates the fastest, and is also difficult to process. So, regarding the type of wood, there is, in fact, no choice. 95% of it is pine. But you need to understand the type of timber.

According to the processing method, timber can be:

Regular or solid, unplaned timber. Sawed out of solid log, cross-section - quadrangle (square or rectangle).
Profiled timber. It is also sawn from a single log, but is then processed: tenons and grooves are formed with milling cutters - profiles with the help of which one beam is joined to another. The side edges are also processed. They come out of the machine already planed. Section - complex shape. The side edges can be smooth, rounded, figured - with chamfers, the shape of a “lock” - numerous beards and notches.
Glued timber. Outwardly similar to profiled, but assembled (glued) from several boards.

Let's look at the features of each type of timber regarding the construction of a house.

House made of ordinary timber

If earlier they said that they decided to build a house from timber, then they clearly understood the usual rectangular timber. There was simply no other one or it was too expensive: it was brought from abroad. Ordinary timber is the most affordable, if you take the cost per cubic meter. But, as a result of all the required measures, the cost of construction may be higher than from a profiled one. It's all about the characteristics of the material. They lead to significant additional costs even at the construction stage: when building a house from unplaned timber, inter-crown insulation is necessarily used. Its geometry is not ideal, and if this is not done, the blowing through the gaps between the crowns will be very strong. The second feature is that the surface of the walls turns out to be uneven and it is impossible to do without finishing the inside and outside.

In addition to laying the inter-crown layer, the delivered log house is caulked, additionally sealing the seams. You need not just one caulk, but at least two, sometimes more. And all because it is made from wood with natural moisture. In practice this has the following consequences:

Another feature of the house from ordinary timber: The walls turn out uneven. To give them a “decent” look, they are either sheathed with finishing materials or sanded. But grinding is a controversial undertaking: the inter-crown seal makes it almost impossible. Even if you manage to sand the timber, where should you put the seams?

So it turns out that the cost of the house may be higher as a result: to the cost of the timber, add inter-crown insulation, material for caulking and the work itself (and it is not cheap), the cost of external and internal finishing. Please also note that they deliver moldings to your site - bars of the ordered length. The bowls are cut on site. This means that the qualifications of carpenters must be high. How warm the corners will be depends on how the cut is made. And in a log house, it is the corners that are the most problematic place.

Features of profiled timber

When examining profiled timber, the first thing that catches your eye is its almost ideal geometry and smooth surfaces. At least that's how it should be. At good quality execution, no finishing is needed: the wall immediately turns out even and smooth, even if it’s ready for painting.

The second, also quite obvious feature, is that due to the fact that the edges that join two profiled beams have recesses and protrusions (locks), there cannot be through gaps. Manufacturers of profiled timber say that walls can be laid without interventional insulation: It will be warm anyway. But few people listen to them. They put in at least thin insulation. Some use a thin backing under the laminate, others use self-expanding tape for installation plastic windows, as well as jute tape and similar materials.

In the photo, by the way, the most common Lately developers have a “comb” profile. It can have a “tooth” of different heights and widths, and everyone loves it because, in theory, it is impossible to “blow through” it. However, even here they play it safe by installing insulation.

Several typical timber profiles (the two on the far right in the picture are laminated timber, but the exact same profile is made from solid wood)

In general, there are a lot of profiles. Some of them are in the photo. When choosing a supplier, you need to pay attention not only to the shape of the locks, but also to how they are made. The match in any pair should be maximum.

Having decided to build a house from timber with a profile, you need to decide on its humidity. Profiled timber can be of natural humidity (cheaper), or - chamber drying with humidity no more than 14-16%. The features of lumber with natural moisture have already been considered, now let’s talk about chamber drying. The enterprise installs large drying ovens into which finished profiled timber is loaded. There, in conditions of elevated temperatures, it loses excess moisture. At the same time, all the processes that usually accompany drying wood occur in the chamber: it bursts, it twists. Accordingly, part goes to waste, and the rest is sold for more high price. The reasons seem clear.

If you decide to build a house from kiln-dried timber, you can start finishing earlier. The log house should still stand, but it will take 9-12 months. At the same time, new cracks rarely form; existing ones only expand. But it is worth keeping in mind that due to the high costs of drying, most often they only reduce the humidity to operational - 16-18%, while chamber-drying wood is considered to be 8-12%.

In any case, the cracks will need to be sealed. Caulking is needed in very limited quantities: first of all, you will have to look at all the corners and notches, if any (this is what they call the places where the walls are attached). Even a well-made bowl can dry out unevenly, causing a gap to appear. The beam can also turn out, which will also lead to the appearance or expansion of a gap. So periodic revision of the angles is also required during operation. Wood is a living material and will change all the time. Also, after a year, the sludge will have to be repaired too much. large cracks in the timber (without fanaticism, so that the tow does not open the crack).

The log house is assembled from numbered blanks with a molded bowl (numbers in blue at the ends)

The situation may be simpler with the assembly. If you just order lumber, you can cut corners from profiled timber, as from regular timber, on the site. But many enterprises, if they have a project, offer to take on part of the work themselves. Using a special program, they lay out the timber: they make a list of “spare parts” from which the house will be assembled. Then, according to this list, blanks are cut out, with molded bowls. The blanks are numbered and delivered ready-made to the site, where the house remains to be assembled like a construction set: folding the beams according to the numbers marked on the plan.

This is convenient, especially if you are going to build a house with your own hands without construction experience. It is clear that the service is not free, but you can save on paying carpenters: you do not need to assemble such a highly qualified designer. Only in this case, whether your house will be warm or not depends on how accurately the bowls are made in production. Sometimes there are companies that make very low-quality cuts. You can see several of these in the photo.

Poorly made bowls - the blowing will be incredible, and caulk will not help much

In general, it has its disadvantages and its advantages, but compared to ordinary timber, profiled timber is more convenient in construction, and in terms of price it may even be cheaper if you count the finishing.

Glued laminated timber

From the name it is clear that it consists of glued parts. First, the lamellas are cut out, treated with antiseptics, dried to a certain moisture content, and then glued together. Due to the complex manufacturing process, the price tag for this material is approximately 2.5-3 times higher than that of conventional material and 80-90% higher than that of profiled material.

What are its advantages? Properly made, it does not crack, it does not shrink: dry material cannot shrink, and glued beads should have a moisture content no higher than 12-15%. Therefore, the finishing process, with a beam width sufficient to compensate for heat loss, can only be reduced to painting or varnishing, since protective impregnation carried out at the enterprise (should, in any case).

What does laminated veneer lumber and its profiles look like?

Another consequence of the lack of shrinkage is that after just a few weeks, the folded frame can be immediately placed under the roof, and after another few weeks, finishing can begin. This time is necessary for the bowls to shrink, and the geometric dimensions of the laminated veneer lumber should not change. That is, there is a significant saving of time - everything, including finishing work, can be done in one season.

But are glued beads really that good? In terms of speed of construction, yes. But it has serious drawbacks. First: it is glued. This crosses out one of the main advantages of wood - environmental friendliness. Secondly, its vapor permeability is low. Many people put wooden houses precisely because of their ability to naturally regulate indoor humidity. Glued laminated timber lacks this due to the presence of layers of glue. Of all the advantages of wood, only attractive appearance, but finished with clapboard of the appropriate profile or a block house, it looks exactly the same. Therefore, the use of laminated veneer lumber to build a house is a very controversial issue.

Stages of building a house made of timber

A log house has several advantages:

The walls turn out to be light, which is why the load on the foundation is low, which means that the costs of its construction will be lower.
Wood is an elastic material and it compensates for small movements of the foundation without compromising the integrity of the building. And this, again, allows you to make shallow foundations on well-draining soils.

The choice of foundation type depends largely on the soil, but most often it is done if there is no need for a basement, you can put a columnar one (for small buildings temporary residence - dachas, bathhouses, etc.) or or without). It is advisable to base the choice on the results of geological research. The process is described in more detail.

While the foundation is “setting,” the wood is prepared. All timber and dowels are treated with antiseptics and fire retardants. Use compounds that do not form a film on the surface of the log. They will not interfere with the drying process. After preparing the timber, the actual construction of the house begins:

Cut-off waterproofing. To prevent the wood from the foundation from drawing moisture, it is necessary to lay a layer of hydrophobic material. Previously, two layers of roofing material were laid under the first crown. Today there are more modern materials - coating and roll. You can use them, and in combination: coat them, stick them on a roll.
Laying the trim crown. The timber is selected without signs of blue, with a minimum number of knots. Preferably - from the middle part of the tree - with a maximum density of annual rings. It is additionally treated with impregnations intended for wood in direct contact with the ground. In order to ensure better preservation of the first crown, there is a trick: lay it on the waterproofing wide board, soaked bitumen mastic with working out. Another layer of waterproofing is placed on it, and the first crown is placed on top. All these layers are connected to the foundation with studs that are embedded in the foundation.
Rough floor. The floor logs are attached to the first crown - a beam with a section of 150 * 100 mm. They are laid in increments of at least 70 cm. To make it more convenient to work, subfloor boards are laid out along the joists without nailing them.
Assembling walls from timber. If a wall kit with ready-made bowls is not ordered, they are “slaughtered.” Cut out according to the template. A template is drawn from a piece of plywood, traced, and then cut out. A chainsaw is used more often, but a fairly high degree of proficiency with the tool is required: how warm the house will be depends on the accuracy of the cut. The shapes of the timber connection are shown in the picture.

We have already talked about laying inter-crown insulation: when using regular timber it is required, for profiled timber it is advisable in bowls, the rest is optional. The crowns are connected to each other by dowels - long round bars carved from a single piece of wood, dowels - rectangular in shape or pins - metal rods. In any case, a hole is drilled under the connection into which the connecting element is driven.

The order of work depends on the type of roof chosen. When installing a simple installation, rafter legs are installed, but the order is different. It is rolled out and secured onto the assembled rafter system. windproof membrane. In this form, the house is left to dry out for a long period of time.
Door and window openings. To speed up drying and shrinkage, you can cut out window and door openings, install a frame or fixing strips. Door and window blocks are not installed until the main shrinkage is completed.

After a year or two, you can begin finishing work. All the time while the log house is settling, it is necessary to monitor the processes occurring in the wood. It is necessary to immediately inspect the corners and, if necessary, caulk them. Then monitor the condition of them, as well as the beam connections. If the dowels are driven in with great force, during drying the timber may hang on them, causing cracks to form. The problem can be solved by hanging around: take a huge wooden hammer and knock on the walls, causing faster shrinkage. The same technique is used if the house is settling too slowly.

The video shows the main stages of how to build a house from timber. Despite the lyrical digressions, there is a lot of valuable information.

How to build a house from timber: photo report

They built such a house.

We ordered a wall kit for the project, and a strip foundation was poured under it.

They brought blanks with sawed-off bowls. They were carefully unloaded, while inspecting them for any defects. One beam turned out to be problematic - it was in the middle of the bundle and suffocated - it became covered with fungus. It was postponed for a separate “treatment”. The rest were covered with impregnation (Valti Pohusta) and stacked.

To avoid problems with fungus, a spacer is laid under each - boards lying across.

Rolls of insulation and dowels were also purchased. The Nagels were sent to bathe in the impregnation. IN old bath poured the impregnation and left them for half a day, then took them out and dried them.

The first crown - a half-beam - was laid on top of the waterproofing laid on the foundation. It has no grooves at the bottom.

It was pulled to the foundation with anchors to studs poured into concrete.

The first crown was laid. The one that was previously fixed on the foundation is often called “zero”.

Let's measure the diagonals. In order for the cups to stack without problems and to avoid distortion, they must be equal. The permissible distortion is a couple of millimeters.

Having aligned the diagonals, we drill holes for the dowels. To prevent holes larger/smaller than the required length, a wood stop was placed on the drill.

The walls are gradually growing. We fasten them in a checkerboard pattern with dowels.

In general, the timber is more or less normal, but there are problems with incorrectly sawed cups. When we lay the timber, we get a huge gap. The only way to combat this is to manually adjust the cups so that everything lies evenly.

It takes a long time to eliminate these inconsistencies, but gradually all the walls are laid out.

Walls made of profiled timber were removed

Let's start assembling the rafter system. First, as is customary, the two outer trusses are installed, then everything else, according to the project.

The finished sheathing was sheathed with roofing felt. So let's leave the house to dry.

Inside we lay out the subfloor boards, nailing every fifth one. They will dry along with the house.

Video on the topic

Mistakes that are made when building houses from profiled timber are described and discussed in detail in this video. Very helpful. Look.

Increasingly, land owners are focusing their choice on building houses from timber. The main advantage of this solution is the fact that you can build a house from timber with your own hands. Such a building has exceptional qualities of reliability, durability and environmental friendliness. The actual technology for constructing buildings from timber is extremely simple and understandable. Even with basic construction skills, all work can be done independently, without the need to contact construction companies.

What kind of wood can be used to build a log house with your own hands? Photo

Before starting construction, it is necessary to choose the most suitable and quality material for work. The main qualities of wood are density and strength. For some species, these indicators reach the level of most metals, so quite high requirements are placed on buildings made of timber. The walls of the house must be strong and durable. In addition, they are required to provide good noise and heat insulation.

However, wood has a number of disadvantages, the main ones being low level fire resistance and a tendency to sedimentary deformations, which is especially often manifested during the first 2-4 years after completion of the construction process.

Coniferous species are the most optimal choice for the construction of a timber building. This material is durable and resistant to rotting processes; it does not crack and does not exert significant load on the foundation. To build a house yourself, it is extremely important to remember that not only competent construction technology, but also material selected in accordance with all the rules will make it possible to build a good wooden house. Therefore, the wood must be dense and wear-resistant.

Profiled or solid timber?

The timber can be profiled or solid. For construction, you can use both the first and second options. To choose a specific type of material, you should consider the advantages and disadvantages of each of them.

Build a house from profile timber with your own hands. Video

Profiled timber provides for the presence of a profile. It has crown grooves and tenons. Such connections are installed along the entire length of the material, and then the surface is ground. Timber for building a house is already supplied to finished form. The owner just needs to assemble a building from them. Among all the advantages of houses made of profiled timber, the following stand out:

Relatively low costs for construction work.
High resistance to deformation.
Low complexity of work.

The building material has exact shape, which allows all required activities to be carried out as quickly as possible short time. Houses made from this material have a more attractive appearance and high thermal insulation characteristics.

The advantages of profiled timber include an almost perfectly flat wall surface. They do not need to be additionally sheathed with any facing material, because they already look great. Walls made of timber are protected from rotting, since rain and melt water will not collect in them. The profile is calculated in such a way that precipitation cannot penetrate into the roof joints.

After shrinkage of the house occurs, there is no need to waste time and effort on caulking. Wood provides excellent wind protection and high level thermal insulation, since the crowns have connections of sufficient density.

However, profiled timber also has disadvantages. Firstly, it does not withstand many atmospheric influences well enough. Secondly, the timber supports combustion. Therefore, in order to increase bio- and fire-retardant properties, wood must be treated with antiseptics and impregnations.

The natural moisture of the material can cause cracks to appear on the timber during the warm season. For this reason, the material should have a moisture content no higher than 20%. If necessary, chamber drying will be required.

The initial thickness of the walls of a building made of profiled timber will not be enough for optimal use. One way or another, additional external insulation will have to be carried out. However, once construction is completed, it will not be possible to change the layout or make additions.

Build a house from solid timber with your own hands. Video

Despite the fact that solid timber does not have the most presentable appearance, the material is still widely used in construction. The main advantage is the relatively low price. When preparing wood, its standard moisture content is maintained, which makes it possible to get rid of the need for additional procedures and reduces the duration of the preparatory stage.

Suitable solid timber can be purchased at any specialized market. Another big advantage of using this material to build a house with your own hands is that there is no need to use special equipment or special tools.

However, there are also disadvantages, which include:

When choosing timber, you must be extremely careful, since unscrupulous sellers provide timber of poor quality.
More high costs for execution finishing works. To obtain a complete and beautiful appearance of the building, it must be covered with clapboard or siding.
Fungus may begin to form on the timber. The reason lies in natural humidity, since the material does not pass through special technology drying. Naturally, you can treat the timber with an antiseptic and special impregnations to prevent the formation of fungus, but this will require additional money and time.
After shrinkage, the material cracks. To prevent such damage from occurring, wooden walls needs to be sheathed on both sides.
Intercrown seams are heavily blown. building from solid timber characterized by a significantly lower level of thermal insulation.

Preparing tools, materials and a project for building a house from timber with your own hands. Photo

After selection suitable type timber, you can proceed to the purchase of materials, collection necessary tools and compilation project plan. If desired, you can purchase materials ready-made. In this case, all the bars are cut to the required dimensions of the tools. There will already be grooves in the material, and all that remains is to lay out the building.

If you wish, you can save on material if you prepare it yourself. To do this, you should pay attention to the following factors:

Large and through cracks are strictly unacceptable.
The wood must be absolutely “healthy”.
The material must not have any traces of insect damage.
Before use, the timber must be treated with special antiseptic compounds.

The work of building a house from timber with your own hands will require the use of a certain set of tools, which include:

gasoline or electric saw;
yardstick;
hammer;
electric drill;
level;
axe;
electric screwdriver;
nails, screws, jute;
hammer drill

After preparing everyone necessary materials and tools, you can begin to draw up a project for a future house made of timber. To do this, you will need to accurately calculate all the required calculations and parameters. You can draw up the project yourself, as there is nothing complicated about it. Or contact a specialized construction organization.

Building a house from timber with your own hands: foundation, photo, video

Having prepared the project yourself or received the project in hand, you can begin arranging the foundation. A house made of timber must be built on a reliable, solid foundation.

When choosing the type of foundation, you should consider the following parameters:

The main characteristics of the soil on the site.
Design features.

A wooden house can be built on a wooden or concrete foundation. Most often used concrete foundation, on which it is laid out brick plinth, and only on top of this structure are walls made of timber erected, and then a roof. If an exclusively wooden structure is assumed, the base is made of wood.

A house made of timber can be built on:

shallow foundation;

buried foundation;

columnar base;

belt type support.

As a rule, a strip or shallow foundation is prepared for a house made of timber. A depth of 50-70 cm will be sufficient.

Step-by-step instructions for building the walls of a house from timber with your own hands. Video, photo

After arranging the foundation, you can proceed to laying the timber walls. At this stage, the most important thing is to choose optimal technology assemblies. The walls are laid out in rows. A new layer is placed on top of the previous one until the required wall height is achieved.

The bars have special grooves that ensure that the logs fit snugly together. The grooves are insulated with thermal insulation. To increase the strength of the walls, it is necessary to use spikes to connect the beams.

A simplified version involves the use of untreated pine timber. The bars weigh little, so for construction there is no need to call for special lifting equipment.

In the process of erecting timber walls on your own, it is important to take into account a number of main requirements. Firstly, all seams should be caulked, which will eliminate the possible occurrence of wind blowing through the walls. Secondly, finished walls are treated with special impregnations that increase fire resistance and strength.

Roof and floor installation. Finishing the house made of timber with your own hands, photo

Very often, developers who build wooden log houses try to save money and do this during the process of constructing the roof, using cheap materials, for example, ondulin. But it’s wrong to skimp on material when finishing a roof for wooden building absolutely not recommended.

This element of the house may have different variants execution: it all depends on the roofing and rafter systems. It is better to equip each area using boards of different sizes. For example, rafters are assembled from boards with a section of 150x40 mm, and for creating braces and racks - 100x40 mm.

When it comes to arranging the floor and choosing a covering, you need to focus on personal preferences. The only mandatory point is proper waterproofing of the floor and ceiling. Particular attention should be paid to the issue of waterproofing basement and basements. Moisture protection is carried out before screeding or leveling. In a cobblestone house you can use:

coating materials;
roll waterproofing;
jellied compositions;
penetrating moisture protection.

Plinths and basements can be waterproofed with your own hands without any problems. This process is simple. You need to choose the most suitable and liked material and begin its installation in accordance with the technology.

For wooden floor Wood-based coatings are better suited: laminate and parquet are the best option, since the material is convenient and easy to install.

Regarding more modern materials, there should be no problems with their installation.

Finishing a house made of timber with your own hands, photo

Finally, installation work is carried out interior doors, window frames and partitions. The subfloor is laid, after which the selected insulation, finishing floor and finishing coat. The ceiling is finished with any selected material. At this stage, it is necessary to equip water supply, sewerage, heating and energy systems.

Exterior decoration is chosen by the owner of the house independently. If desired, the building can be left without exterior finishing, if, of course, the appearance and quality of the material allow this. If you want to get some other appearance, the house can be painted, covered with clapboard, siding, or trimmed with other materials.

In this sequence, the construction of a house from timber with your own hands is carried out. By following the technology, you can get a reliable, comfortable and durable structure without turning to third-party specialists.