Log house: self-construction of different types (from wild and rounded logs, timber), nuances. Making a log house with your own hands: step-by-step instructions on how to make a bathhouse from a log house yourself How to make a log house from a log with your own hands

Due to the growing popularity of wood as a building material, many are interested in how to build a house from timber with their own hands. Despite the rather significant scale of such an event, this task is quite realistic. Naturally, you will need to purchase quality material, master the technology and attract help - but in the end it is quite possible to build a residential building without the involvement of third-party specialists.

We will tell you how to do this below. In addition to everything, the video in this article below will also highlight some of the nuances.

Features of choice

Before talking about how to lay timber to form the walls of a residential building or bathhouse, you need to understand the material itself.

The timber used for construction is a blank quadrangular shape(rectangular or square), sawn from a single tree trunk or glued together from several boards.

According to the configuration, the timber can be flat or profiled. Profiled models are much more convenient to install. In addition, protrusions and recesses on the planes of profiled parts make it possible to create an almost hermetic joint between the elements.

Advice!
To improve the performance characteristics of the joint between the beams, it is worth using special insulating materials.
The most popular today is the jute roll seal.

Solid timber is more affordable, but it is more prone to deformation and shrinkage when drying. The price of glued varieties is much higher, but such blanks practically do not warp, and shrinkage of the structure will be minimal.

Also, when purchasing a material, it is very important to pay attention to its moisture content: wood natural humidity It is cheaper, but a log house made of such material must stand for at least a year before finishing, otherwise shrinkage of the walls will lead to deformation of the internal and external cladding.
Chamber drying significantly increases the cost of building materials, but allows you to minimize the percentage bound moisture in wood fibers. Such timber practically does not shrink.

To summarize, it can be noted that the answer to the question of how much it costs to build a log frame directly depends on the material you choose. Glued profiled timber that has been pre-dried will cost more, but you can handle the construction easily and quickly. Well, most a budget option– smooth, massive material with natural moisture. But, of course, you will have to tinker with it.

Wall length

Wall width

Wall height

Beam section

150x150 mm. 180x180 mm. 200x200 mm.

Beam length

5 m. 6 m. 7 m. 8 m. 9 m. 10 m. 11 m. 12 m.

Loghouse installation technology

Lower junction to the foundation

After the material has been selected, purchased and delivered to the site, you can figure out how to build a log frame. And we will start work from the foundation - installation of the casing crown.

What do the instructions from experts in working with wood advise us to do?

Before laying the first crown of timber, it is necessary to perform high-quality waterproofing grounds. Whatever our foundation, we lay either two layers of roofing felt or a special waterproofing membrane on its upper surface.

Advice!
If construction is carried out in a humid area, then it is advisable to carry out comprehensive protection from moisture, including styling membrane materials, and treating the foundation with water-repellent mastics.

We lay a lining beam on top of the waterproofing layer around the perimeter of the entire base. To make this, this tree is characterized by maximum resistance to moisture.
The thickness of the lining beam must be at least 100 mm, and the width must be at least no less than the width of the main wall beam.

Sometimes a profiled beam is used as a lining, cut in such a way that it rests on the base not with the tenons of the castle, but with a plane. In this case, installation of an additional lining is not required, but the waterproofing properties of the structure will suffer somewhat.
At the corners of the structure wooden beams we connect “half a tree”. This allows you to achieve maximum joint strength.

Note!
All the following crowns can be connected according to another scheme, for example, “in a paw”.

We thoroughly impregnate the backing beam or the first profiled blank with an antiseptic agent (Tikkurila, Senezh, etc.). In principle, if finances allow, it will definitely not be possible before installation begins.

We lay a jute sealing tape on top of the timber. If you are choosing how to lay the timber, you should keep in mind that too thick material is just as ineffective as too thin: in both cases, the risk of blowing increases. For a flat beam, a tape thickness of 10 mm is sufficient, and for glued profiled timber – 5 mm.

To avoid displacement, we fix the jute on the beam using a construction stapler.

Note!
laid in one layer, without bends.

We attach brackets to the inside of the lower crown, on which we lay the floor joists. The lower plane of the logs should rest on foundation elements or special cranial bars.

In principle, logs can be embedded into the crown, but if we are talking about how to build a bathhouse from timber or build a house on relatively moist soils, then it is better to act according to the first option. This will make it easier to replace a rotten log with a new one.

Timber fastening technologies

After the first crown has been erected, you can begin laying the beams for the set of walls.

There are several nuances to consider:

In principle, high-quality dried glued laminated profiled timber can be mounted without any connecting elements at all, fastening it into a lock only at the corners (we will talk about corner connection technology a little later). But, nevertheless, to increase strength it is better to connect the workpieces.

For connections, dowels are used - metal, wooden or plastic pins. It is best to use wooden walls, and even those with the same humidity as the wood itself.
The hole for the dowel is drilled to connect no more than two beams: top beam it is “stitched” through, and a nest of half its thickness is formed in the lower one.
The diameter of the hole should be equal to the diameter of the dowel - so that the fastening element is driven into the wood with slight force by blows of the mallet.

Advice!
The length of the dowel should be 25-30 mm less than the depth of the hole - this will compensate for shrinkage.

Fasteners are installed in a checkerboard pattern. The distance between them should not exceed 1500 mm.

Cutting corners

Corner connections timber can be done in several ways.

Some of them provide for the protrusion of the workpiece beyond the plane of the wall (connection with the rest), others do not.

The parts are connected to the rest by cutting out a recess in the workpiece - a bowl. A second beam is placed in this bowl, which can be either solid or with a corresponding cutout. The most popular connection schemes with the remainder are “into the bowl” and “into the bowl”.
The most common technology for joining without residue is the “half-tree” joining. In this case, protrusions are formed at the ends of the beams, the thickness of which is equal to half the thickness of the parts being connected.

Another method of corner connection is the so-called “warm corner”. This technology involves cutting a vertical groove on the side surface of the beam, into which a corresponding sized tenon is inserted at the end of another element.

Note! The corner cutting technology largely determines the labor intensity of the process, and if you ask how much it costs to build a house from timber with different options angles, they will give you numbers that will differ quite a lot.

Windows and doors

Speaking about the construction of walls, do not forget about window and door openings:

The openings themselves are either cut out in already laid walls, or are provided for in advance by the design (if we purchase the material as part of the so-called house kit).
In order to maintain the shape of the openings during shrinkage, in them side surfaces we cut in special strips - the so-called swarms.
Above the windows and door frames V mandatory leave a shrinkage gap of at least 50 mm.

Finishing

After completing all the activities described above and laying the roof, the log house must stand until it shrinks completely. The standing time ranges from one and a half years (for raw, even timber) to six months (if glued dried raw materials were used).

After required time passed, you can start finishing:

Houses made of profiled material do not require cladding either inside or outside. To ensure their durability, it is enough to treat the walls with an antiseptic or paint them with a composition for external use.
In buildings made of even timber, cracks inevitably form during the shrinkage process. These cracks must be sealed, after which it is necessary to provide cladding that protects against blowing.

The most important stage in building a wooden house is the installation of a log frame. A mistake made at this stage can lead to the most disastrous consequences, and to eliminate it you will have to disassemble everything and start from the very beginning. A properly assembled log house will serve you for many decades, provide you with environmentally friendly housing and will please the eye with color. natural wood. This type of work will require basic carpentry skills, concentration and attentiveness.

The construction of a log house is preceded by the construction of a foundation. We talked about the basics and methods earlier. If your foundation is ready, you can safely begin assembling the house. Most often, log houses are assembled from timber with dimensions of 100x150, 150x150 or 150x200 millimeters. The use of ready-made timber when constructing a house can significantly reduce its construction time. This is due to the absence of the need to cut gutters and select logs by diameter. Special attention requires a choice of material. The timber intended for the assembly of a log house must have a profile, that is, a recess on one side and a protruding groove on the other. During assembly, the groove of one beam is fixed into the recess of another, forming a so-called lock, which gives the entire structure strength and stability. The timber must be smooth, without bends or distortions that may appear if this material is stored improperly. Due to the curvature of the groove, you will not be able to lay such beams in the desired way, which will entail uneven drying and disruption of the geometry of the entire house. For greater reliability finished design should be considered general recommendations specialists. To install the lowest crown of the building, use beams of a larger cross-section. This is due to the fact that it is the lower logs in the walls of the house that bear the greatest load. Due to the constant pressure exerted on the logs during their drying, when using thin beams, the walls of the building may become skewed. For maximum thermal insulation, it is necessary to correctly lay the corners of the building. Angles in wooden log house can be formed in several ways - with a cut in two or one plane. A gash in two planes is more preferable, since it is less blown and provides more reliable connection beams of one crown. Washing down in one plane is much easier, but requires additional insulation with third-party materials. The crown can be fastened to each other using nails or wooden “fingers” called dowels. Using the latter is the more preferable option, since it allows you to achieve maximum connection reliability. The dowels must be made from completely dry wood to avoid shrinkage. Hardwood, such as oak, is best suited for their manufacture. It is recommended to use steel nails with a length of 150-200 millimeters. They should be hammered into holes 25-30 millimeters deep, the diameter of which should be slightly larger than the nail head. This will avoid the formation of cracks in the walls of the log house when the wood shrinks. Since wood is subject to shrinkage, the joints of the beams must be additional insulation. To do this, it is better to use tow or special insulation, for example, “Isover” or Yrsa. As you build the house, be sure to check the horizontalness of the crowns by level, and control the verticality of the corners using a plumb line. After completing the installation of the walls, plug the protruding remains of tow between the beams. Wood shrinkage makes it impossible to attach door or window frames directly to the wall beams. To secure them, install a stand that ensures free movement of the beams as they shrink along the box.

Only thoughtful and diligent work on installing a log frame will allow you to achieve a worthy result, which will delight all residents of the house for a long time with the warmth and comfort of the atmosphere.

Technology for assembling a log frame for a house or bathhouse

Organization of a workplace for assembling walls

To ensure the work progresses, the beams are laid out in a stack at a distance of 5-6 meters from the building on one or, better yet, both sides. Each layer of beams in a stack is placed on spacers made of boards.

A workplace for marking and cutting beams will be equipped next to the stack. A variant of such a workplace is shown in the figure.

It is convenient to mark the timber using a template at a height of 0.9 - 1.1 meters in the marking area, node A in the figure. After marking, the timber is lowered onto low pads into the cutting area. In this position, it is convenient and safe to saw the timber chain saw.

The cut timber is lifted onto the wall. To facilitate the ascent, slopes are arranged - inclined beams, whose upper end rests on the upper crown of the log house. The timber is moved along the slopes using a rope.

Wedge-shaped stops are nailed to the slopes, which make lifting the beam safer. In addition to safety, the stops allow you to get by with little force. Even one person can, if necessary, lift the beam, fixing it with stops at intermediate points.

It is most convenient to carry out work on assembling a log frame from timber with a team of four people. You can work together, but the work will just go slower.

Scaffolding is constructed to install the upper rims of the log house and the roof.

Three-tier scaffolding on the gable of the house. 1 — extreme racks; 2 - L-shaped scaffolding stand of the first tier on the side facade; 3 - flooring; 4 — central racks; 5 — cruciform braces (shown conditionally); 6 - bosses

The assembly of the upper crowns of the log house is carried out from the level of the first tier. The flooring of the first tier is laid on - shaped racks, pos. 2 in the picture. The racks are installed around the walls of the house and attached to the walls using bosses, pos. 6.

At the stage of constructing the roof (attic), on the facades where the installation of pediments is necessary, scaffolding has to be made in three tiers. To construct scaffolding racks, boards 50 x 150 are used. mm. Flooring is made from the same boards.

Working from scaffolding is more convenient, faster and safer than from ladders - don’t forget about this.

Marking beams for wall assembly

Practical construction experience shows that it is not realistic to keep in mind the sequence of marking the elements of corner joints.

Before starting work, draw a diagram of the assembly of the walls of the house, which indicates: serial number crown, type of connecting element at the ends of the blanks, position of openings in the wall.

An example of a house wall assembly diagram is shown in the figure:

Scheme for marking corner joints of timber and joints of parts of longitudinal walls, for a house with overall dimensions 6x9 meters. A And WITH- longitudinal walls; D And B- transverse walls; E- internal wall made of timber - partition; 1 - joints of beams.

For the house shown in the diagram, each crown consists of 7 pieces of beams ranging in length from 3 to 6 m.

The crown of the longitudinal wall consists of two parts: the main beam of a standard length of 6 meters and an extension of 3 meters. On one crown, long beams are laid on the left, and extensions on the right. On the next crown, installation begins in a similar order, but on the right.

The parts of the crown of the transverse wall and the partition are made from one beam of a standard length of 6 meters.

To eliminate cold bridges in external walls, the joints of the beams of the longitudinal wall, item 1, are made by making vertical cuts “into the floor of the tree” with an overlap of 15 - 20 cm. The timber in the corners of the crowns is connected into a dressing with a root tenon (see below for more details).

How to correctly and quickly mark tenons, grooves and other profiles, ensure identical dimensions of lumber blanks?

The easiest way to do this is using templates. The template is placed on the beam and the outline of the template profiles is transferred to the surface of the beam with a marker.

It is more convenient, faster to mark and there will be fewer errors if the template completely follows the contour of the part and has the same length as the part being marked. I placed the template on the timber and immediately transferred all the dimensions and profiles to the workpiece.

For our example, we will need to make seven templates, corresponding to the number of parts in the crown. One template is used to mark two mirrored wall parts.

If you think about it, the number of templates can be reduced. Let's look at how to make universal templates for marking parts of the longitudinal walls of a house (see above for the wall assembly diagram).

Two templates (highlighted brightly) yellow) for marking the beams of longitudinal walls. 4 — groove for the main tenon; 5 - groove for tenon interior wall; 6 - sample; 7 - finishing beam.

The picture above shows the template for marking the main beam in the crown, in which the extension is located on the right. On the wall marking diagram, these are crowns A1, A3, A5 and C1, C3, C5.

Bottom template serves for marking the main beam in the crowns with extension on the left - A2, A4, A6 and C2, C4, C6.

The templates are the same at first glance, but differ in that the grooves, item 5, for connecting to the partition, are located in different places in the templates.

The same templates are used to mark the parts of the extensions. To do this, on the templates at points b And With drilled through holes, and at points A And d cuts are made.

To mark the extension, the template is placed on the beam and points are made on the surface of the workpiece through holes and cuts.

Remember this technique when making holes in the template. This will help you create universal templates in many other cases.

The templates are made from planed inch boards.

As a result, we manage to reduce the number of templates from seven to three (2 for longitudinal walls and 1 for transverse walls). Two longitudinal templates (right and left) provide the ability to obtain blanks for longitudinal walls, and one transverse template allows you to prepare parts for transverse walls and partitions.

Now let's look at how templates are used. To mark the first beam of the crown (for example, starting from the left), the left template is laid on the beam and the end of the template on the left is outlined with a marker, then two grooves and, finally, a recess for the connection “into the floor of the tree”. The marked timber is transferred to the cutting site, where unnecessary fragments (it is better to mark them out)
hatch) are cut with a chain saw.

How to mark parts with spikes? Obviously, the tenon and groove are elements of the same unit, which means they must match each other in size and location. In a part with a tenon, a tenon is marked in place of the groove.

If the groove dimensions are 5×5 cm, then the spike should have dimensions - 4.5 × 4.5 cm. The gap is filled with inter-crown insulation.

The template profile is transferred to the upper edge of the beam. The markings are transferred to the vertical edge of the beam using a square. Accurate cuts are made using these markings.

How to assemble smooth walls from timber of different widths

The technical conditions (TS) for the manufacture of timber allow deviations in the size of the timber in one direction or another from the standard value specified in the documents.

If the purchase documents indicate standard dimensions of timber, for example, section 150x150 mm. and length is 6 meters, then the actual dimensions will differ from the standard.

Each beam in a batch of timber brought to the construction site will differ from the dimensions indicated in the documents by several millimeters. The cross-sectional dimensions and length of the bars will be different.

The variation in sizes must be taken into account when developing templates, marking timber and assembling walls.

How to assemble smooth walls if the beams are different in width and length?

b— minimum beam width; delta b- the difference between a narrow and wide beam.

Obviously from timber different widths, you can make only one surface of the wall flat - either from the outside or from the inside of the building.

If they want to make the outside wall of the house smooth, then All beams in the wall are aligned along the outer edge. Then, inside the house, wide beams will protrude from the wall by the amount of “delta b"(the difference between narrow and wide bars). Alignment along the outer edge leads to an increase in gaps in the corner joint of the beams (see figure).

If the beams in the wall are aligned along the inner edge, then the “steps” from the protruding beams will already be on the outer surface of the wall. The outside of the wall is usually sheathed. And if you chamfer the outer edges of the timber, then the steps on the wall will be invisible even without cladding. The corner joints of the beams are more dense and “warm”.

How and with what to connect the crowns of a log house

Each crown of the log house is connected to lower crown metal or wooden dowels. The dowels are placed at a distance of approximately 250-300 mm from the end of the beam and then every 1-1.5 meters of the length of the beam.

Each detail of the crown is secured with at least two dowels. The length of the dowel must be at least 1.5 times greater than the height of the beam.

cm., pos. 1.

Round steel dowels with a diameter of 6-8 mm.- pins with a pointed end or nails (6x200-250 mm), simply hammer into the beams of the crowns, option a on the image.

The upper ends of dowels made of any material must be buried into the timber by 2-4 cm. If this is not done, then when the timber dries and the log house shrinks, the dowels will be higher than the timber and will lift the upper crown. A large gap forms between the crowns.

For the same reason Driven pins cannot be made from reinforcing steel. The corrugated surface of such dowels will keep the crown beams from moving when the log house shrinks, even if the dowel is buried into the timber. The crowns will simply hang on such dowels.

Small-diameter steel hammer-in dowels cannot always provide the necessary wall rigidity, especially with long wall spans. Their use can be recommended for small buildings - for example, baths. To increase the rigidity of walls large buildings it is necessary to install dowels of increased diameter.

Steel dowels with a diameter of 10 millimeters or more, as well as wooden dowels inserted into pre-drilled holes in the timber. The diameter of the holes is made slightly smaller than the diameter of the dowel.

When the dowel fits tightly into the hole, the rigidity of the wall increases, but the risk that the dowels will interfere with the shrinkage of the frame increases.

Wooden dowels with a diameter of 25-30 mm Convenient to cut from round cuttings for tools. Such cuttings are made from hardwood. It is recommended to chamfer the lower end of the dowel - it will be easier to drive the dowel into the hole.

You can cut 25x25 square dowels from a regular “inch” board mm. One end of the workpiece is chamfered. Such pins are driven into a hole made with a drill with a diameter of 24 mm.

The ribs of such a dowel, made of relatively “soft” coniferous wood, become crushed when hammered in, the wood becomes compacted, ensuring a fairly tight fit of the dowel in the hole.

How to properly drill holes in timber for dowels

The depth of the holes in the wall for installing dowels must exceed at least 4 cm. dowel length. Moreover, the hole must be free of chips.

For drilling holes in timber that are deep enough and large diameter, a low-speed electric drill (drill) is usually used. The passport of a power tool usually indicates what diameter of drilling in a particular material the drill is designed for. Considering the large drilling depth, it is better to choose a drill with a power reserve.

To drill holes in timber, it is convenient to equip the drill with a stop, as shown in the figure.

The stop block is attached to the drill with steel clamps.

Emphasis, in the form wooden block, attached to the drill, for example, with clamps. The stop stops drilling at the required depth, but the rotation of the drill does not stop after that. Continuing to rotate in one place, the drill clears the hole from chips, grinds in and then easily comes out of the deep hole.

It is convenient to drill holes for connecting the crowns in a beam that is already installed on the wall in the design position on interventional insulation. But here it's usual A problem arises - the crown gasket cannot be drilled. The fibers of the spacer material simply wrap around the drill bit and clamp it.

You have to install the beam on the wall in two steps. First, the timber is mounted without a gasket and temporarily secured from displacement, for example, with nails. Drill holes for dowels. Then the timber is moved from the wall and inter-crown insulation is laid.

At drilling sites the gasket is cut out sharp knife . Then, the removed beam is put back in place, this time on the gasket, and secured with dowels.

Drilling holes in timber laid on a wall should be done while standing on solid foundation- scaffolding, scaffolding, flooring. Standing on a narrow wall and drilling is dangerous. The drill can “bite”, a powerful drill will turn around and easily throw the worker off the wall.

How to make a straight wall from crooked timber

Some of the timber delivered to the construction site may be bent. The beam can have a curvature in one plane, or it can be twisted with a screw and become diamond-shaped in cross-section.

If possible, it is better not to use curved beams for the walls of a house or bathhouse. It is recommended to cut beams with curvature into smaller pieces and use them in other, less critical places.

A small amount of timber that has curvature in one plane can be used to mount walls. You should not lay such a beam into a wall with its convexity up or down, in the hope that it will straighten under the weight of the house - the beam will not straighten, even if it is placed in the lower crowns.

The curved beam is laid in the wall, straightening it in a horizontal plane as shown in the figure.

The crooked beam is straightened sequentially by fixing it with dowels

The curved beam is drilled, aligning it with the straight beam at the drilling points. After laying the interventional insulation curved beam fixed with a dowel at one end and, by unbending, sequentially fixed with dowels at other points.

Unbending the beam does not require much effort. A lever and bracket will help make work easier

Inter-crown gasket - insulation, sealant

For cold protection, a gasket is placed between the crowns. Previously, moss or flax tow were used for this. Currently, special cushioning materials based on flax wool or flax jute are available for sale. The material is sold in the form of a roll of tape with a width of 20 cm.

A strip of cushioning material is laid along the entire upper edge of the beam in two or three layers and secured with staples using a construction stapler.

If the wall is not sheathed, then the gasket should be 1-2 inches from the outer edge of the beam. cm., otherwise it will get wet.

Some craftsmen lay the cushioning material in one layer and suggest caulking the joints after the frame shrinks, adding additional material to the voids of the joints. In this option we have less consumption of cushioning material.

The work of caulking joints is quite labor-intensive and tedious. It is better to immediately lay a thicker sealant, in several layers (three layers), to eliminate the need to caulk horizontal joints.

How to control the correct assembly of a log house

During the construction of a house or bathhouse, it is necessary to regularly check the correct assembly of the log frame. To do this, it is enough to control the following five parameters:

Verticality of corners.
The height of corners and walls.
Horizontality of the crowns and upper edges of the timber.
Straightness of walls.
The quality of installation of inter-crown insulation.

For control of vertical angles The following method is used.

To control the verticality of the angle, a vertical line is applied on each side of the crown. 1 — bottom harness; 2 - crowns; 3 — control lines; 4 - base.

On each side of the crown, a vertical line is drawn at the same distance from the corner edge.

When laying the crowns correctly, this line should be straight and coincide with the vertical. The verticality of the line is checked with a plumb line.

If deviations are found, the work is suspended and the cause is eliminated.

The height of corners and walls is measured roulette. Measurement is carried out from the base horizontal line, which is applied to the strapping beam using a water level.

Horizontality of crowns and top faces timber is checked by level.

Straightness of walls determined visually by pulling a cord along the wall.

The verticality and height of the corners should be especially carefully and constantly checked. Deviations from verticality are eliminated, up to the replacement of the timber in the crown. The height of the corners is adjusted by increasing the thickness of the gasket between the rims in the sagging corners. Sometimes it helps if you tap a sledgehammer on a beam in a high corner.

The quality and thickness of the installation of inter-crown insulation is checked visually by inspecting the walls.

Window and door openings in a log house

From the second crown they begin to form doorways. The distance from the floor level to the window is chosen in the range of 70 - 90 cm.

Laying timber in crowns in the area of openings has its own characteristics.

A - layout of openings in the wall, where: 1 - wall; 2 - door opening; 3 - pier; 4 - window opening. V — diagram of timber cutting, where c is the remainder of the cutting. G - option for constructing an opening in a log house with the installation of temporary fastening bars, item 7. d - option with installation of decks in the opening, item 6 - we immediately get an opening ready for installing a door or window.

In practice, two options are used for forming openings when assembling a log house.

One option is " G" on the image. The opening is made in draft, only preparations are made to create an opening. The opening is not prepared for the installation of doors and windows immediately when assembling the log house. This work is left for later - usually done after the frame has shrunk.

This option allows you to speed up the assembly work of the log house. Beams must be installed in the opening to fasten the partition to the log house, item 7 in the figure. At least two such beams are installed in the doorway.

During the shrinkage of the log house, the piers can “lead” inward or outward. To prevent this, timber in the walls is fastened with vertically installed boards.

In another version - " d"in the figure, the openings are immediately prepared for the installation of doors and windows. To do this, install decks (windows) in the openings - a vertical beam with a groove, item 6 in the figure. The tenon of the wall beam fits into the groove. In this way, the partition beam is fixed from displacement. In this option, the openings are immediately ready for the installation of doors and windows.

Decks (windows) traditionally serve not only to connect timber in the opening, but also serve as window slopes, window sills. To do this, they are carefully processed and chamfered.

Option for installing a window in a wall made of timber: 1 - finishing the window slopes; 2 - a vertical frame board with a tenon strip, fits into the groove of the wall beam; 3 — plastic window frame; 4 — PSUL sealing tape

IN modern conditions, during installation plastic windows and the installation of plastic slopes and window sills, decks (jambs) can be omitted. The beams in the opening are fastened like this. At the ends of the beams along the entire length of the opening, a vertical groove is cut out and a rail is inserted there, which secures the pier beams from displacement.

The length of the deck (pipe) or slats should be less height opening at 5-7 cm so as not to interfere with the shrinkage of the log house.

Timber for home, bathhouse in your city

How to properly install windows in a timber wall

If the opening in the wall was made in draft form (see above), then the installation of the window begins with cutting out the opening under right size. To do this, a lath is filled along the edge of the cut, item 2 in the figure, and the beams are sawed off along the edge of the lath with a chain saw.

Correct installation windows in the wall made of timber. 1 - wall; 2 - rail; 3 - platband; 4 - window; 5 - window box; 6 - wall beam above the window; 7 — interventional insulation; 8 — shrinkage gap above the window and deck; 9 — window frames; 10 - wall beam (pier); 11 - deck; 12 - nail.

Then circular saw Spikes are cut out at the ends of the wall beams (piers). The deck, pos. 11, is placed on the tenons, pos. 10, with a groove. The joints are sealed with insulation. The deck is nailed to the wall beam with nails driven in at an angle, pos. 12. This way the nails will not interfere with the shrinkage of the frame.

A window frame is inserted into the opening prepared in this way, which is attached to the deck with self-tapping screws. Above window frame be sure to leave a gap, pos. 8, to compensate for the shrinkage of the log house. Gap size 5-7 cm. The gap is filled with soft insulating material.

An expansion gap must also be left above the upper end of the deck.

Openings are prepared in the same way and doors are inserted into the walls made of timber.

After completing the assembly of the first floor of the house, the log house is covered with beams of interfloor or attic (if the building is one-story) floor.

Can be structural element. And they can also perform an independent function.

The next page describes the structure of a broken roof of a house made of timber, where the floor beams simultaneously serve as an element of the load-bearing frame of the attic roof.

Watch the video clip, which describes and shows in some detail the technology for installing a log frame from construction timber.

A bathhouse made of natural wood has always been in demand among those who know a lot about it. Not a single imported analog can compare with the Russian version of the steam room. Before you start building a bathhouse, you need to consider all the suitable building material options.

Before construction, you need to decide what you want to see in your new building or consult with a specialist.

Before designing, it is worth deciding whether there will be a bathhouse with an attic or a veranda, so that you can relax after the steam room.
If you are a fan of noisy companies, then it is advisable to plan a barbecue area. In the traditional Russian style you can make a large porch.

Also, talk to a specialist where will the steam room and shower area be located?, where the firebox will be located (in the bathhouse itself or will be brought out into the dressing room).

Logging a bathhouse from timber or from logs - which is better?

Today, in the construction of such buildings, for a number of reasons, materials such as timber and log. Moreover, the first material is given greater preference.

the timber has an acceptable pricing policy;
less susceptible to deformation due to shrinkage. Consequently, interior decoration you can start almost immediately;
accessible construction technology even for non-professionals;
requires the installation of a simple foundation, since it is much lighter than its opponent (logs).

Log material, although it has a complicated construction technology, looks more advantageous in appearance than a bathhouse made of timber.

When using logs you need a professional approach. In addition to the special preparation of the material, all the logs in front should be numbered so that one log fits the other.

The positive qualities when choosing this material are:

high thermal insulation properties;
strength and durability;
tightness that does not require additional sealing of cracks (caulking).

The disadvantages include:

severe shrinkage of the building. It will take at least a year before interior decoration can begin;
increased flammability of the material;
exposure external factors. Additional coating of the outer surface of the logs is required.

note

If you do not want to give up this material, an alternative would be rounded log, which is easier to process with your own hands.

Preparation of round timber and logs

According to experts, round timber is the best material for bathhouse construction. However, in order not to spoil the construction process, you should properly prepare the material for work.

Following the rules round timber should be harvested at sub-zero temperature . It is at this time that there is less moisture in the wood, which will have a positive effect when drying the material.

There are 4 types of logs which are used in construction. The first grade is the best.

This is the part of the log starting from the butt part and ending at the beginning of the crown. It is believed that this section is denser and has no knots.

When preparing the material, you should pay attention to the curvature of the trunk and its ideal roundness.

Experts note that round timber prepared using power tools is more susceptible to rotting than wood hewn with an axe.

An important point is the choice of wood species. Trees are considered optimal coniferous species, as they are less susceptible to moisture content.

Do not use poorly dried material during construction.. This is fraught with severe deformation during shrinkage. You should not take overdried material, due to difficulties in processing.

To check whether the material is too dry, hit the log with the butt of an ax. A dull sound will indicate compliance with all drying requirements.

Watch the video below to see how to properly prepare logs for cutting a log house:

Timber processing

But don’t discount timber buildings. This natural material is considered very aesthetically pleasing in buildings, but demanding additional processing . Treatment by special means from the influence of external factors is necessary for the durability, strength of the bath and resistance to external influences.

To prevent the appearance of bugs and rot, the surface must be prepared. To do this, it must be cleaned of dirt and dust using a roller or brush. Before application, the product (antiseptic) must be thoroughly mixed and several layers applied at intervals of about half an hour. During processing, the air temperature should not be lower than 5 C.

It would also be useful fire retardant treatment. This will require special impregnations consisting of flame retardants and various stabilizers.

Some fire retardants prevent fire, while others provide lasting protection to the building. Decide on your choice and repeat the treatment every 3-4 years.

If possible, do not change the fire retardant composition of the product during such treatment.

How to make a foundation for a bathhouse from a log house?

We will not be mistaken if we say that one of the main components of the bath is reliable foundation . Its purpose is not only to evenly distribute the load of the building, but also to protect it from moisture.

The installation of the foundation must take into account the quality of the soil. The most common types are strip foundation and columnar.

Strip foundation

Often, for the purposes of durability and wear resistance, as well as due to accessibility and ease of installation, a strip foundation is used.

It is worth noting that such a foundation not designed for massive structures. There are several types of strip foundation:

Brick tape Laying is carried out using numerous seams and laying, which is labor-intensive.
Rubble concrete. The basis is river stone, which is filled with concrete mortar.
Made. This foundation is based on reinforced concrete blocks different sizes, which requires considerable financial costs.
Permanent formwork. It's relative new technology, not widely used. The basis is polystyrene foam, in the middle of which they place concrete blocks and everything is filled with concrete.
Monolithic foundation. The most affordable and durable way.

Advantages strip foundations are appreciated; they are in high demand:

easy to install and requires additional equipment;
construction is carried out in a short time;
affordable material makes the foundation a budget option.

There are also negative aspects when choosing this method:

the severity of the material () requires a thorough study of the construction site in order to avoid severe shrinkage;
impossibility of erecting a structure on loose soil.

note

If you have planned small building, then concrete grade 200-250 is suitable for construction. If the bathhouse is meant to be heavy, but not too massive, then it is best to use grade 300 concrete.

Columnar foundation

The columnar foundation is also characterized by its relative cheapness and durability in use. The main building materials used for this type of foundation:

tree;
concrete;
reinforced concrete;
stone.

Usage various materials mainly depends on the type of soil and financial capabilities. For example, It is appropriate to install a columnar base on loose or clay soil.

It does not take much time to build the foundation. Construction time for the construction of a 5x5 base is limited to 2-3 days.

Experts advise to refrain from such construction in areas where there are altitude differences. However, if not ground floor, as in our case, this cannot serve as a limitation.

Important!

If a brick stove is planned for the bathhouse, then it is worth making a foundation under it!

The construction of a columnar foundation is of two types:

buried. Used in areas where the level of moisture in the soil is high;
shallow. This type implies soil with high bearing capacity.

A columnar foundation is a favorite when choosing to build a wooden bathhouse.

Base waterproofing

Impact high humidity has a detrimental effect on the foundation of the building. In order to avoid negative consequences, With the waterproofing layer should be carefully considered.

Waterproofing is carried out in two ways:

vertical;
horizontal.

The first drainage layer is compacted with gravel and sand 20 cm thick. The creation of such a layer will prevent stagnation of water. After this, formwork is installed on the drainage basis and the foundation is poured.

When the drainage pad hardens, we proceed directly to waterproofing.

Horizontal insulation easier to perform than vertical. It is performed by applying several layers of roofing material (3 layers) to the surface of the foundation.

Vertical insulation applied to the vertical parts of the bathhouse foundation. Ideal option Such insulation is considered if it is carried out along the entire wall.

From above, the vertical waterproofing is connected to the horizontal. At the junction points, a drainage layer made of bitumen or geotextile is provided.

Waterproofing can be carried out by painting, pasting and plastering methods.

How to properly build from a log frame?

If you expect the bathhouse to serve you long years, should be taken into account all points required during construction:

You should choose a place with appropriate soil for building the foundation. The location must match the type of foundation.
Prepare the necessary building materials.
Construction of the base of the bathhouse.
Pour the base for the stove and install a sewer system.
Floor installation.
Construction of log walls.
Installation of rafters and construction of the roof.
Installation of blind area.
Insulation of walls from outside by caulking.
Chimney installation.
Wiring of electricity and water supply.
Finishing the log house inside and outside.
Ventilation device.

You also need to select log cutting tool, we list the most common set:

a carpenter's ax with appropriate weight and handle length;
ax - adze (the blade is perpendicular to the handle, and the shape is rounded);
“dash” (a metal rectangle with pointed ends, needed for cutting logs);
plane;
level;
additional tools (hacksaws, saws, plumb lines, staples, chisels).

Log caulking

Caulking a bathhouse is one of the final moments of construction. must happen in two stages. The first caulking occurs immediately after completion of construction, and the second a year later, after thorough shrinkage. Insulation for caulking walls can be very diverse. This includes natural moss, felt, tow, hemp, and mineral wool.

Moss

Despite the fact that moss is the only material that is 100% natural, it also has disadvantages. In addition to the fact that this material is quite expensive, it quickly becomes brittle, does not tolerate moisture and burns well. More likely, is not the best choice when insulating.

Felt

If you decide to insulate with felt, choose a wool-based material. Natural material smolders in the fire without causing a fire. Felt with added artificial impurities has increased flammability.

Tow

If your choice falls on tow, keep in mind that small rodents love this material and over time it can begin to rot. The advantages include low price, ease of installation and naturalness.

Linen

The most common material is flax fiber. Although it is not completely natural, it is very moisture resistant, strong and durable.

note

Be careful when purchasing flax fiber! Often, sellers sell flax wool for this material, which contains more artificial additives.

Continuing the topic, watch the video from detailed technology log caulking, tips and recommendations:

Door and window openings

Before planning a bathhouse, you should carefully consider the location of windows and doors. During operation, they perform a number of functions. They must fully provide the room with light and, if necessary, air.

Their location should not contribute to temperature loss and the creation of drafts. They should not contradict the technical condition of the building. Install window and door blocks should be done after shrinkage to avoid distortions.

Log roof

Installing the roof is practically the crown of construction and you should not treat this moment “carelessly.” She plays important role in protection from precipitation and, importantly, gives the building an aesthetic appearance.

There are gable and single-pitch roofs. Due to certain climatic conditions, preference is given for the most part gable roofs. In addition, it allows you to equip the attic space.

Features of the layout of wooden baths

Most of us are used to standard sizes baths 6 by 6 meters, which has a steam room and a dressing room. This is the most familiar option for everyone, especially since waste at such sizes will be minimal, since logs and timber are usually 6 meters long.

However, there are exceptions - 6×3, 6×4.5, 6×8 meters, if the size of the plot and financial capabilities allow. Nowadays, it is not uncommon for such baths to have a separate room for a steam room and a washing department.

Often, large areas of the room allow you to place a relaxation room in the bathhouse, which sometimes makes up ½ of the entire area. In addition, the vestibule is very convenient. This will be the first room that can be accessed from the street.

A vestibule is needed if you use a bathhouse all year round. It can also serve as a buffer zone for air.

Thus, already at the initial stage you need to know not only how to build a bathhouse, but also how to allocate space in it. Taking into account all the features and nuances, you can get a high-quality, reliable and practical structure that will last for many years.

Useful videos

See the video below for different options for making a log bathhouse ( real stories):

Example finished bath from a log, the owner tells all the characteristics of how he built it:

An example of log processing ready-made template:

Share your construction experience in the comments. wooden baths, what materials and tools do you use?

You can build a log house from timber for the purpose of either permanent or temporary residence. The log house is built from a building material such as timber, or glued laminated timber is also possible. If planned permanent residence in a house made of timber, then construction material must be planed, but if it is temporary, it is not necessary. In any case, the timber is laid with the planed side inward.

Diagram of species and cross sections timber.

Features of log houses

Assembling beams with your own hands, unlike log walls, follows directly to ready foundation belt type. Houses or log houses built from timber necessarily shrink, which prevents the laying of walls immediately after the construction of the house. Usually they wait at least about a year or two years to lay high-quality walls that will serve for a long time. A building material such as timber has only positive characteristics.

Figure 1. Scheme of assembling panels for the plinth.

You can use profiled timber, saving on finishing materials. Timber can retain moisture in its structure for a long time, so the shrinkage of a built house takes quite a long time. You should not build a log house alone; you must invite an assistant. The process of building a house from timber with your own hands is not difficult.

To build a log house High Quality, be sure to use wooden dowels, which are easy to make with your own hands. For this purpose they use regular boards or their trimmings remaining after performing any work, for example, related to the installation of sheathing. It is better to make dowels from harder scraps of boards; to do this, they are trimmed on one side using a saw. Then they are sawn into boards 120 mm wide, the main thing is that they turn out even.

How to properly lay the foundation for a log house

Principles of strip foundation construction

Figure 2. Scheme of arranging the foundation with ventilation.

The first step from which the construction of timber begins is laying the foundation. Before carrying out work, a soil analysis is carried out construction site, which comes down to geological research related to searching for the level of occurrence groundwater and determination of soil composition.

For each type of terrain with a specific soil composition, there are special types foundations that will last for decades, and the presence of groundwater will not have a destructive effect on them. Before laying the foundation for a log house, it is necessary to dig a trench for the future structure. This is due to the removal of the fertile soil layer. First, sand is poured into the trench, which is compacted by filling it with water. After this, stone is poured into the trench to begin reinforcing the foundation.

Reinforcement using reinforcing bars can be done both in the upper part of the foundation and in the lower part. This will give the highest strength to the entire future design log house Reinforcement is carried out using concrete; if you do it yourself in a concrete mixer, it will not cost as much as if you buy ready-made concrete at a hardware store. Concrete delivery is carried out by such a type of transport as a mixer truck, and it can only enter areas with largest area, otherwise the concrete will have to be unloaded in another way.

The best option would be to use a concrete mixer installed on the site. This will allow you to independently prepare a concrete solution for reinforcing the foundation, but the quality of the composition will not be as high as that of ready-made concrete. Reinforcement is placed at the bottom of the trench with sand and stones, and then this space is filled with concrete. The entire foundation strip, if it is a strip foundation, is filled with concrete to ground level. The foundation can also be constructed using formwork, and a columnar type of foundation is also suitable for a certain soil composition.

Figure 3. Diagram reinforcement cage for the foundation.

When using a concrete mixer, it should not be covered in the place where its motor is located, since it requires constantly circulating air to cool it after and during operation. Before the construction of a log house from timber begins, after the foundation is completely installed, it should take from a week to a month for the structure to fully stand.

For a certain type of soil, for example, swampy, it will be necessary to make a spatial frame. Only after this the formwork is created and a concrete solution is poured into it. If the foundation is laid in warm weather, then its surface must be lined with sawdust or other material, for example, moss or roofing felt. You can simply fill its surface with water. The thickness of the formwork boards should be about 40 mm. You should choose formwork panels required height and length.

Construction of the foundation plinth

Behind initial size For shields, the distance between the center lines of the base is usually taken. The shields are assembled directly on the ground using special pads. The assembly diagram of the panels for the plinth is shown in Fig. 1. The smooth side of the panels should face the inside of the base.

The foundation base should have special windows for ventilation, which are located at a distance of 15-20 cm from the ground surface. They are located on opposite sides of the base structure, each opposite the other. To create them, you can use asbestos-cement pipes adjacent to the ends of the shields, as shown in Fig. 2. This position of the pipes will prevent the ventilation holes from being filled with concrete mortar.

Figure 4. Methods for connecting timber.

The reinforcement frame of the plinth is located in the upper part, this is shown in Fig. 3, after this they fill concrete screed. Reinforcing bars should be laid in an overlapping manner, tying them with wire.

Using this method, you can obtain a rigid structure that is firmly connected to the foundation of the future building. Starting to fill concrete mortar into the formwork, the filling line at the top should be marked on the panels. When the base of the log house is ready, they begin to lay the first crown.

For correct installation top harness The plinth is covered with roofing felt in two layers, taking into account the entire perimeter of the structure. To do this, a strip of roofing material is bent lengthwise and then laid on the base. To make the strapping, use even beams, on which there are no cracks, various jumps, or rot.

How to properly build a log house from timber

To protect the gaps between the beams from water ingress, chamfer the upper edges, the size of which will be 10x10 mm. The corners of the log house should be connected using the tongue-and-groove method. It is possible to connect the timber with dowels and a main tenon, as shown in Fig. 4 in the form of a diagram. The corners of the initial crown can be connected using the half-tree method, and subsequent rows are fastened with dowels using root tenons. The main tools and materials for construction are:

beam;
saw;
hammer;
dowels;
nails.

Figure 5. Different ways fastening beams and logs.

There may be gaps between the crowns of the beams, so they should be laid thermal insulation material caulk. Felt or tow, cut into strips 20 mm wide, are used as a heat insulator. smaller size timber in width.

For better drainage of water from the seams running horizontally between the beams, chamfer with a width of 20 to 30 mm is removed. It is possible to reduce the degree of conductivity between the beams by using grooves and stuffing slats in the shape of a triangle.

Using dowels having a rectangular or round shape, you can join the beams in a vertical position, as shown in Fig. 5. To disinfect all the bars that belong to the first crown, this is done by lubricating each of the bars on all sides. The ends of the beams are left without treatment with the composition.

You should cut curved beams with your own hands by creating small sections of them that fit into window openings and door openings. The oil-treated beams are laid on the base, fastening them with staples. The construction of cobblestone walls can be similar to the process of constructing log walls.

Cobblestone walls have seams that are located in the horizontal direction, which is the main difference between log cabins and log buildings.

The seams are the most vulnerable areas of the log house walls, so they need to be not only insulated, but also covered with drying oil or oil paint.

You can protect log beams from biological effects on wood, as well as atmospheric influences, by sheathing the outside of timber walls with boards or facing bricks.

Plank wall cladding horizontally makes it easier to install the heat insulator. If the wall thickness is less than 150 mm, then additional heat insulators are used, and if the thickness is about 200 mm, then you can do without insulation.