Foam plastic plastering technology. Facade plaster on polystyrene foam

How to plaster polystyrene foam outside the house? Very often this material is used to insulate a house inside and outside. Strictly maintained dimensions, characteristics and positive properties allow all work to be completed quite quickly and efficiently. The article will tell you how to plaster polystyrene foam.

Polystyrene foam is an environmentally friendly material that provides effective thermal insulation and reliable fire safety. Polystyrene foam is a polymer material with a structure close to natural compositions, in which microscopic cells are filled with air or gas.

This structure gives excellent thermal insulation properties to polystyrene foam, which deservedly makes it popular all over the world. Using the material as insulation in the construction of houses is one of the most inexpensive ways to ensure good thermal insulation.

The advantages of foam plastic over other materials are:

Environmentally friendly and clean, which is regulated by the hygienic conclusions of manufacturers and state standards.
Low thermal conductivity. The material is 98% air, and this is the best natural heat insulator.
Fire safety. Can stably withstand temperature changes over a wide range, without changing physical and chemical properties. It refers to plastics that, like wood, when burned, release water and carbon dioxide. But styrofoam good quality does not support combustion: the fire retardant included in its composition gives the foam the property of self-extinguishing.
Good sound insulation, which is ensured by low dynamic stiffness.
Resistance to microorganisms. Polystyrene foam does not emit water-soluble substances, does not decompose, and does not have a negative effect on natural resources when it gets into the ground or groundwater.

Advice: Insulation made from this material used in construction should be protected from the interaction of chemical compounds: alcohol, turpentine, paint thinner, acetone, kerosene, gasoline, various resins that can completely dissolve the foam and harm its cellular structure.

Resistance to bacteria and mold.
Light weight. The minimum density of foam plastic has virtually no effect on the foundation of the building and its supporting structures.
Small price.
Easy to process and easy to install.
Durability. Its service life is practically unlimited.

When insulating a building with foam plastic:

The cost of heating the house during operation is reduced.
Useful space is saved.
Costs during loading and unloading operations are reduced.
The costs of using complex construction mechanisms and tools for processing materials are reduced.
Time frames are being reduced construction work, while the building turns out to be warm and comfortable.

The disadvantages of polystyrene foam include:

Low strength. Any targeted impact on the surface or other mechanical impact leaves a dent, and sometimes the slab is completely destroyed.
The material requires protection from the influence of certain external factors:

ultraviolet rays;
humidity.

From an aesthetic point of view, leaving a wall that is lined with slabs alone is unacceptable. In this case, exterior finishing of the house is necessary.

How can you plaster polystyrene foam?

Budget and relatively in a simple way Do-it-yourself finishing of polystyrene foam is its plastering.

Tip: The foam plaster mixture can be applied to slabs that are attached by gluing. When laying the sheathing in cells, a supporting frame is mounted, and the finishing surface covering is done with clapboard or other panels.

For finishing foam plastic you can use:

Universal facade plaster, resistant to temperature changes and moisture. The use of reinforcing mesh allows for maximum adhesion of the coating to the surface of the insulation.

Tip: To increase the adhesion of the finishing material and the foam, you should grout it with a plastic float with an emery cloth attached to it.

Mineral mixtures (see Mineral façade plaster: features of the material). Such compositions are made on the basis of white Portland cement, lime hydrate and fillers. The solutions are very durable, adhere well to many types of surfaces, and protect inner space premises from fungi and other harmful microorganisms.

Such compositions make it possible to create an excellent texture and make the walls attractive. Their advantages:

low cost;
long service life;
good vapor permeability, which allows the composition to be used on surfaces with low diffusion resistance;
resistance to mold, fungi and other harmful microorganisms;
absence of influence on materials by sudden temperature changes;
the coating is of natural origin, does not pose a danger to humans and environment;
This type of plaster composition goes well with foam thermal insulation.

Acrylic compounds (see Acrylic plaster for facades: how to use).

These solutions last longer than the period of operation of the foam, but their disadvantage is that they do not allow steam to pass through, which does not allow for reliable interior spaces comfortable microclimate, without the use of special equipment. The material is supplied in finished form, as a water-dispersion mixture.

Silicone solutions. Manufactured on the basis liquid glass. High price The material limits its use, but it is indispensable for buildings located in industrial and other areas with high pollution.

Before plastering the foam, check that there are no gaps between the slabs. How and with what to plaster polystyrene foam outside? The video shows the entire process in detail.

Advice: It should be borne in mind that the composition cannot be laid in a thick layer, which requires making the surface fairly even.

How to prepare a solution for plaster

To prepare plaster, when using it on foam plastic, it is necessary to strictly follow the operating instructions located on the packaging of the composition.

Advice: When working with compositions for plastering foam plastic, they should be brought to the consistency of a thick “jelly”.

For the same building you should not use products manufactured by by different manufacturers. Similar materials have different components in their composition, which “behave” differently. They also differ in application.

Compositions can be:

Universal.
With limited scope.

It is better to give preference to the first type of coating.

How to lay the first layer of plaster

Before plastering on foam plastic, you will need to purchase a special mesh made of alkali-resistant material, usually PVC. This is explained by the presence of cement in all plaster compositions, which is aggressive to many materials.

The order of laying the mesh:

The strips are cut to the required length. To do this, measure the height of the wall and add a small margin.
Hold the strip at the top with one hand, and apply the solution along the upper edge of the material with a spatula. Thus, the mesh is “welded” to the foam.
The first layer is applied up to 5 millimeters thick.
The solution is applied from top to bottom, while the mesh is captured across the entire width.
When installing strips of mesh, the adjacent one is laid with an “overlap” of one centimeter, so you need to leave a “tape” free of plaster on the right side.
Using this technology, the entire wall is covered with a mesh.

Advice: First of all, the tapes should be laid on corners, slopes, door and window openings, then on the rest of the area.

How to grind the primary layer and finish the foam

To provide the applied solution with a smooth, monolithic base, grinding of the primary layer of plaster is done. To do this, with a trowel, periodically moistened with water in a bucket, without pressing too hard on the foam, the entire surface is leveled and smoothed. At the same time, it’s not scary if sections of the mesh appear through the solution here and there.

The photo shows the insulation diagram outer wall polystyrene foam and its finishing.

The procedure for finishing the insulation is as follows:

After applying the first layer and grouting it, a second layer is applied, which finally levels the entire wall and hides, if any, visible areas of reinforcement.
If the second layer does not give the desired result, the coating is applied a third time.

When plastering foam plastic, you should keep in mind that this is its “rough” finishing, after which decorative plaster will be performed. Therefore, surface evenness is one of the conditions for obtaining high-quality installation surfaces.

How and with what they plaster polystyrene foam, you can see all the stages of the work in the video in this article.

Expanded polystyrene, both regular and extruded, has become widespread as an insulating material. Its use is due to its affordable price and excellent thermal insulation properties.

Correct Application of this material(fixed to the walls outside the house) allows you to retain heat and prevent the formation of mold and mildew indoors.

To protect the insulation itself from the destructive effects of the external environment, polystyrene foam plaster is used. In this way, you can extend its service life several times.

Why is it necessary to plaster polystyrene foam?

Plaster will protect the material from destruction

Plaster is an important element of protective treatment. in this case it differs in a number of nuances from ordinary plaster. Polystyrene foam is characterized by a porous structure. This material is produced by filling styrene granules with gas under the influence of high pressure and heating with steam. Exposure to high pressure and temperature leads to swelling and sticking of granules together.

Afterwards, the mass of the resulting substance is pressed, giving it the shape of slabs. The thermal insulation properties of the resulting material are high, but it worsens natural ventilation in the house. Low cost relative to other insulation materials and low weight allow you to put up with its low strength.

As a result of atmospheric influences (ultraviolet radiation, humidity, temperature fluctuations), the bonds between individual granules weaken over time. The slab begins to crumble and may fall apart into pieces.

Due to these phenomena, it is necessary to apply a plaster coating to polystyrene foam. It plays a role protecting against negative influences.

Along with conventional polystyrene foam, the use of fire-resistant and extruded types of polystyrene foam is common in practice. The latter is the most advanced version of the material in the form of a single substance (rather than individual granules) with a strong connection of molecules. The absence of micropores prevents steam and water from penetrating into the structure. Negative Impacts atmospheres can be traced only on the surface, but also in places of cuts, so the use of extruded polystyrene foam is more preferable in the long term.

Tools and materials used

To do this, you need to use a certain set of tools. Required Tools and their purpose are described in the table.

№	Tool name	Purpose
1	construction mixer	designed for stirring the solution to the required consistency;
2	set of spatulas	used for applying the mixed composition to the work surface;
3	construction float	removal of minor irregularities, grinding;
4	set of containers	under water, for solution;
5	construction knife, hacksaw	cutting slabs and fiberglass mesh, applying notches;

After preparing the tools, the question arises about choosing plaster. The materials offered differ in price and composition.

For finishing works you will need special plaster (facade) for polystyrene foam.

Its most common types with brief characteristics are presented in the following table.

№	Type of mixture (by composition)	Characteristics
1	mineral compounds	They are sand-cement mixtures with the addition of various fillers; very low cost; the quality is much lower than that of analogues; Now
2	acrylic plaster materials	main components - acrylic resins, chemical additives; excellent quality (they are created specifically for finishing insulated facades); There is no special need to prepare extruded foam plastic for plastering; fits well on the surface being treated; allow you to create decorative elements and textured images on the facade

Choose fire-resistant mixtures

This is by no means a complete list. Modern manufacturers offer big choice. Some samples may differ in only one or two of their components.

Particularly popular are the mixtures of the companies Knauf, Ceresit, Polyrem, Kreisel (for example, brands universal adhesives"CeresitCT-85№, "Coral SP -141", "PoliminP-19").

When choosing, you should pay attention to the fire-resistant properties of the compositions, because most polystyrene foams have an average degree of flammability; it is recommended to use plastering materials that are more fire-resistant.

Plaster is produced for sale (mostly) in bags of 15 to 25 kg weight.

It is not recommended to carry out plastering work with a solution of cement and sand. Such surfaces will not last long.

The mesh will strengthen the mixture on the wall

You will also need water and fiberglass mesh (prevents the formation of cracks, holds the plaster).

according to the consumption data indicated on the packaging per 1 sq. m of treated surface;
purchase (approximately) mixtures for one wall;
After plastering, calculate the practical consumption and purchase more for the required area.

Features of working with extruded polystyrene foam

Plastering extruded polystyrene foam has a number of differences due to its physical characteristics.

The most characteristic properties that show the nuances of working with this material are:

moisture is not absorbed into the insulation boards, so all the water from the facade remains inside the finishing layer;
the coefficient of expansion (temperature) of the foam does not correspond this indicator for plaster mixtures, therefore, due to temperature changes, the coating applied to the slabs may crack and fall off;
The surface of the insulation is smooth, dense, irregularities and micropores are virtually absent, which makes it difficult for the solution to adhere to it.

If the material is too smooth, it is roughened

Before starting work, you need to apply a small amount of plaster mortar to the slab and wait a day. If the coating was difficult to apply, cracked or fell off after drying, then additional treatment of the contact layer should be carried out.

It consists of increasing the roughness of the interacting part of the slab using a needle roller or small plastic brushes. Afterwards, a special primer and reinforcing mesh should be applied. The latter is fastened either with a special adhesive composition, or left over from work with insulation.

Due to the low adhesion ability and weak adhesion, the thickness of the applied layers of the solution should not exceed 3 mm.

Extruded polystyrene foam requires a plastering technology that differs from the standard process.

Process technology

Apply plaster in two layers

Expanded polystyrene plaster is performed in two layers: the 1st - creates a coating of the reinforcing mesh, the 2nd - levels the surface. The work takes place in several successive stages:

to increase the degree of adhesion between the materials, notches are made on the surface of the plates (using a hacksaw or a needle roller with a pitch of about 5 cm);
From the beginning, the door and window openings of the building and its corners are reinforced with fiberglass mesh;
complete covering of a reinforced wall with mortar;
rubbing the first layer;
applying a second plaster layer;
final (final) grouting;
primer for finishing. For more information about plastering, watch this video:

The solution layer should be 2 - 3 mm

At the second stage, for corners and openings, the mesh is cut into strips of the required length (on average up to 1.5 m) and about 30 cm wide. They are bent in half and tried on the corner (opening).

For the mesh, following the instructions on the packaging, make one bucket of solution (to have time to process it before it starts to dry). It is applied with a spatula on both sides of the corner (10 cm in each direction from the corner). The remaining 5 cm unprocessed is necessary for overlapping the next strips.

The solution is applied in a layer of 2-3 mm. The prepared mesh is pressed into it with a spatula from top to bottom. A ready-made mesh profile is also used for corners.

Then the entire wall is reinforced: the mesh is pressed into the solution, covered with a layer of plaster. Work quickly to allow the solution to set. Mesh joints should not coincide with the joints of insulation sheets.

When the plastered surface dries (this will take about 2 hours), then it is rubbed using circular movements with a special grater, which must be periodically moistened with water. Minor roughness should be left for better adhesion to the second layer. For more information about finishing polystyrene foam, watch this video:

The finishing layer is applied the next day, followed by more thorough grouting. The surface is primed with a short-pile roller (does not leave smudges) for decorative finishing. Work is carried out in warm (above 5 degrees) calm weather.

You can do the work yourself. The most important condition for obtaining a high-quality result is the use of suitable compositions and adherence to work technology.

Every year, thermal insulation of facades with foam plastic becomes the most popular method of insulating houses and buildings. But for all its advantages, polystyrene foam must be protected from external influences of climatic and biological factors. It copes with this task well using polystyrene foam, provided that all work is performed correctly.

If you have chosen polystyrene foam or penoplex as facade insulation, there will be a need for quality plaster thermal insulation surfaces. Below we consider in detail how to properly plaster a building, protecting its thermal insulation from harmful effects natural and atmospheric phenomena.

Plastering on polystyrene foam consists of several stages, which are performed in a certain sequence:

Preparation of plaster mortar.
Preparation and pasting of the facade with plaster mesh.
Rubbing along the façade mesh.
Uniform treatment of the facade with plaster.
Rubbing an even layer of plaster.
Primer work.
The final decorative.

Preparation of plaster mortar

For processing expanded polystyrene, penoplex and other similar building materials used for insulation different types plaster solutions.

Due to high quality products, which has proven itself in the market, the most common manufacturers of such solutions are Stolit, Ceresit and Ecomix. The price of the above brands is affordable and has a good correlation with their quality.

It is important to know: when plastering a certain building, you need to use a solution or mixture from only one manufacturer.

Not all manufacturers of plaster mortars produce one mixture for treating thermal insulation of facades. There are manufacturers who make a separate solution for gluing plaster mesh to the wall and a separate mixture for treating facade insulation.

When purchasing a separate mixture for gluing the mesh, make sure that the plaster used for processing the thermal insulation of the facade belongs to the same manufacturer.

To glue a plaster mesh, it takes about 3.5 kg/m2 of solution, and the mixture consumption for uniform treatment of the entire facade is 5.5 kg/m2. When creating a solution, be sure to follow required proportions, which are displayed by the manufacturer on the packaging itself.

Experts recommend mixing a solution that is slightly thinner than the manufacturer's recommended mixture. This will not affect the quality of the plaster itself and will create more comfortable conditions when applying it during finishing work. In particular, the layer intended for uniform treatment of the façade must be liquefied. The degree of liquefaction can be determined based on the level of drainage of the mixture from the spatula.

After preparing the required consistency of the plaster, proceed to the installation of the facade mesh, to which the polystyrene foam plaster will be attached.

Preparation and pasting of the facade with plaster mesh

When preparing plaster on polystyrene foam, it is imperative to adapt it to self-retention on the covering of the wall that you are going to process.

Without it, it is impossible to reliably stick to the foam. For this reason, it is necessary to choose a suitable material for wall treatment. The best choice would be to purchase a mesh for outdoor facade works, the density of which must be at least 150 g/m2. The most compacted mesh will facilitate uniform processing of the façade covering, but it is worth considering the difficulty that arises when gluing decorative elements and corners. These areas can be treated with a low-density net.

It is important to know: due to the fact that styrofoam plaster is most often made on a cement base, it is necessary to select an alkali-resistant mixture.

Gluing the façade mesh should start from corners, arches, window and door slopes, as well as other difficult-to-work areas:

To glue the facade mesh in the corner areas, it is necessary to cut a belt from the mesh 30 cm wide and 1 m long (the length for a slope or arch is determined by measuring the required area yourself).
The belt must be bent directly in the center so that when unbent, the fold line is clearly visible.
Plaster mortar applied to corner areas using a spatula, its density should be at least 2 mm.
Apply the mesh to the covering of the desired area of the facade and, pressing with a spatula, smooth it with gentle movements, starting from the corner to the bottom side.

After successfully gluing all difficult-to-process areas, you can begin gluing the facade mesh to the flat areas of the facade:

The length of the segments for uniform sections of the facade should be no more than 1 m, since you will not be able to glue a longer piece due to the quick-drying properties of the plaster mortar. If you are sure that you can do it on time, you can cut off larger pieces, but it is recommended not to take risks, otherwise there is a chance of damaging the building materials.

The plaster mixture is applied to the treated area of the wall in a layer of at least 3 mm, guided by the size of the prepared mesh section.

When attaching the mesh, press it with a spatula and smooth it, starting from the center in all other directions. Make sure that all sections of the mesh are well pressed into the applied plaster solution.

Having successfully glued one piece, you need to continue installing the mesh in the same row, moving to the right or left. Pasting of the façade mesh is done with an overlap. Edge joints, as well as slopes, arches and corners are glued in the same way.

It is important to know: pay special attention to the joints, corners and decorative elements of the facade, otherwise they will look sloppy even after the final exterior finishing.

Rubbing along the façade mesh

The glued mesh must be rubbed evenly without fail. This is done using a plastic grater with sandpaper.

Grinding is carried out exclusively on the dried solution. This usually takes a little time; for example, in summer it will dry in just 4-5 hours. In cooler seasons, it is recommended to wait about 20-22 hours before grouting.

Rubbing should be carried out using gentle movements in a circle, preferably counterclockwise. Be sure to change the sandpaper if undried solution gets into it.

Uniform treatment of the facade

After the above steps, facade plaster on foam plastic involves applying a leveling layer of the mixture. Uniform processing of the wall is carried out as follows:

A leveling plaster solution is applied to a large spatula, which must be used to evenly cover the facade wall. The thickness of the layer is selected based on the quality of the walls. In the best case, it is at least 2 mm.

Leveling is carried out by applying a layer of mortar in sections. In this case, it must be taken into account that the joints of the mesh should not fall on the joints of the leveled sections.

Rubbing an even layer of plaster

Rubbing a uniform layer is carried out using the same method as troweling over a façade mesh.

It is important to know: rubbing of a uniform layer must be done no earlier than 20-22 hours and no later than 4 days after processing the facade. If grouting is late, you will have to put in much more effort when processing the wall.

A uniform layer is rubbed down until an extremely even coating of the facade wall is obtained, since the decorative plaster will be applied precisely to this surface.

Primer work

In order for the final finish to adhere well to a uniform layer, it needs to be primed. Quartz primer (CT-16) is perfect for decorative plaster. In the case of regular facade painting, it is necessary to use a quartz-free primer to maintain an even finish (CT-17). When choosing a primer, you should pay attention to the Ceresit brand, as its price is about 450 rubles. and it correlates perfectly with the quality of the product.

The primer must be applied using a short-haired roller to avoid drips.
Having completed the priming work, you can begin the final finishing of the facade of the building.

Final decorative finishing of the facade with plaster

The final finishing of the facade should be carried out by applying the main layer of plaster to a spatula. Its thickness is determined based on the size of the mineral grains in the solution: the finer the grains, the thinner the layer. Make sure that the layer is applied evenly over the surface area of the façade wall.

The base layer must be leveled using a large-pored sponge or grater, while simultaneously forming the desired decorative elements of the facade. Before painting the facade or applying a protective solution, it is necessary to allow the plaster to dry.

This guide will help you treat polystyrene foam insulation with stucco yourself. Omission of at least one of the stages does not guarantee successful processing and durability of the building facade.

What and how to plaster polystyrene foam outside?

Foam plastic is one of the most popular materials for insulating building facades. Sheets of foam insulation have a large number of advantages, but they can be damaged due to exposure to the sun, temperature changes and high level humidity. Also appearance This material is not attractive, so polystyrene foam is often treated with a plaster mixture. This article will look at how to plaster polystyrene foam on the outside and what tools will be needed for this.

Selection of materials

Since external cladding is required, facade plaster on foam plastic must be frost-resistant and have protection from various atmospheric precipitations, so gypsum compositions are definitely not suitable. The optimal solution would be a cement-based plaster solution, but not made independently from scrap materials. A special purchased composition is made with the addition of special elements that guarantee the strength and long service life of the resulting coating.

To plaster a polystyrene foam façade, you need two types of compositions. One will be used as glue to perform the reinforcement procedure, the second will be used to level the facade walls. Universal solutions are also produced that combine both purposes.

If you plan to purchase glue and leveling solution separately, it is better to purchase products from one manufacturer. This will ensure their quality interaction. The consumption of adhesive is within 4 kg per 1 m², and plaster – 6 kg. The universal composition will require about 10 kg to process 1 m².

Foam finishing process

Work on processing the facade surface consists of the following stages:

Preparing tools and mixing plaster mortar.
Surface reinforcement with mesh.
Leveling the wall.
Facing with decorative mixture.

The procedures must be performed in this order. They are not highly complex, so even a beginner in the construction trade can cope and the involvement of specialists is not required.

Preparing tools and mixture

How can you plaster polystyrene foam on the outside? To process this coating you will need the following accessories:

container for the composition and mixer for mixing;
glue, knife and reinforcing mesh for processing the base;
primer mixture and roller for processing;
directly the plaster composition and spatulas of different sizes;
sandpaper or grinder for grouting.

To plaster polystyrene foam, the solution must be prepared according to the instructions indicated on the wrapper. You must also adhere to the following standard recommendations:

First of all, a small amount of water is added to the container, followed by a dry solution. During the mixing process, water is constantly added until the composition reaches the required level of density.
The plaster mixture is left for 10 minutes, after which it is mixed again.
The cement-based mortar hardens for quite a long time, so you need to prepare a lot of it so that the cladding procedure does not stop.
The mixing tool must be cleaned after each batch of mixture is prepared.
Can only be used for mixing clean water so that harmful components do not enter the composition.

Installation of reinforcing mesh

Before plastering the foam, you will need to install a reinforcing mesh. It will improve the reliability of the coating and its quality. Installing a mesh will prevent cracking and sagging of the material after drying.

It is necessary to start the installation process from the corners, door and window openings. For processing, you will need to take the mesh and cut off a part 30 cm wide and a length corresponding to the length of the slope. In the case of corners, the length should be 1 m. After which the mesh will need to be bent so that its edges meet and the unevenness is smoothed out. This is necessary to maintain the integrity of the product.

Using a spatula, glue or a universal compound is applied to the surface, after which the reinforcing product is attached. For quality connection It is recommended to iron the mesh material and wall with a spatula. It is necessary to ensure that it does not lag behind the treated coating anywhere and is evenly immersed in the composition. Next, the remaining sections of the wall are covered.

Advice! It is best to use a mesh of about 160 g per m². The higher the level of its density, the stronger the composition will hold. But, it must be taken into account that very dense material will be difficult to install on the corners.

The mesh is cut into fragments 1 by 1 m. You can use larger pieces, but then several people will have to work, since it will be difficult to do it yourself. The prepared composition is applied to the surface with a stroke of 1 m and a width of 0.9 m. The remainder of 10 cm will be used for gluing the joints. The thickness of the applied mixture should not exceed 3 mm.

Afterwards, the mesh is placed on glue and ironed with a spatula. Smoothing should start from the middle and gradually move up or down. As a result, the mesh should be immersed in the solution. Next, a small amount of the composition is applied to hide the product. Then the next part of the overlapping reinforcing mesh is glued. Traces of joints are processed at the end, but they should not be visible against the general background.

After the glue has completely hardened, you will need to wipe it down. Sandpaper placed in a special plastic container is suitable for this. The paper is pressed against the wall being processed, and circular movements are carried out. The abrasive needs to be changed periodically. The entire wall is processed in this way, and only after that you can move on to the final stage.

In the video: reinforcement of polystyrene foam with mesh.

Leveling the surface

At this stage, a leveling layer is applied. It will hide all the imperfections of the reinforcement, completely covering the mesh, and will become the basis for decorative cladding. Facade work is not much different from finishing concrete or brick surfaces. They are done using a spatula, but the layer should have a small thickness, and the joints of the lined areas must be offset relative to the joints of the mesh.

Plaster before painting must be applied especially carefully. You will need to make the surface as smooth and even as possible, since the paint will show all the imperfections.

After finishing the facade is completed, you will need to pause for 2-4 days until the composition completely hardens. The final procedure will be grouting the wall. The process is carried out in the same way as when processing the reinforcing layer.

To prepare polystyrene foam for decorative cladding, you will need to treat the walls with a primer. To do this, you can use mixtures with added sand or flour. The composition is poured into a specially designated container, after which a roller or brush is dipped in it. The lining is carried out twice with a pause of about 3 hours.

Important! Before cladding with a decorative composition, you will need to prepare an initial layer. For this you can use white solutions. The material is applied to the plastered area in the same way as a leveling compound, but the thickness should not exceed the grain size of the mixture.

After the finish has hardened, the coating is sanded. If necessary decorative processing no, then the walls are covered with colorless varnish and at this point the work with polystyrene foam can be considered completed. As a replacement for varnish, you can use paint for external procedures.

In the video: plastering foam plastic from the outside.

Decorative finishing of foam plastic

If facing with ordinary plasters is not enough and you want to create an unusual surface, then you will need to perform several more procedures:

A deep penetration primer is applied to the base layer and time is allowed for it to dry. Afterwards the decorative composition is prepared.
Using a wide spatula, the mixture is applied and spread over the facade. After which you will need to wait a little so that the composition has time to dry.
Then the entire facade is processed using a grater, the device is pressed tightly against the coating, and movements are made from bottom to top.
After the surface has dried, it is painted. The paint is applied in two layers, with the second layer being slightly lighter than the first.
The final procedure will be varnishing.

Important! When performing decorative cladding, the temperature should be in the range from 5 to 30°C, and the humidity 65-75%. It is also impossible to carry out this procedure during precipitation or strong wind.

For creating textured coating You can use a roller, a paint brush or a simple sponge. It is possible to implement an unusual pattern or you can simply perform chaotic movements. You must work carefully, without pressing the tool too hard onto the coating.

Be sure to wait until the plaster is completely dry. Next, the surface is again treated with a primer to increase adhesion and painted. You can use different paints, it all depends on your personal design tastes. Finally, the wall is varnished.

As you can see, there are quite a lot of options for cladding foam on the outside. You can choose any one, but the main thing is to carefully follow the technology for doing the work. You can do the cladding yourself, which will allow you to save a lot on hiring specialists.

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Plastering polystyrene foam with your own hands - protecting the insulation from external factors

Required tools and materials

Insulating the walls of a house with foam plastic was, is and will be one of the most popular types of thermal insulation. The popularity of polystyrene foam is due to its low price - it can even be insulated big house outside is a completely feasible task for the family budget. The task can be considered completed if the foam has been plastered and puttyed, either by craftsmen or with your own hands.

1 Is it possible to plaster penoplex and polystyrene foam - mistakes and misconceptions

Foam plastic, like others polymer materials, has a very long decomposition period. Scientists talk about successful testing of slabs of this material under conditions simulating 80 cycles of temperature changes. How can this be, you ask? After all, everyone around is talking about the fragility of polystyrene foam. This statement is only partially true - foam plastic becomes short-lived when directly exposed to ultraviolet radiation ( sun rays) and mechanical influence. That is, if you decide to insulate the facade with foam plastic, you should take care to protect the material from these two factors.

According to experienced craftsmen, if you plaster the foam and carry out repair work in a timely manner, on average the service life of such a facade can be extended to 20 years. And the foam plastic for insulation and plaster must be special - grades PSB-S-15, PSB-S-25. The second misconception, popular among builders, is that polystyrene foam is flammable. And again, the statement only partially corresponds to the truth - of course, polystyrene foam is flammable, but its ignition temperature is almost 2 times higher than that of the same wood, and during combustion it releases two to three times less thermal energy.

That is, in the event of a possible fire, polystyrene foam, as this material is more correctly called, gives a minimal increase in the temperature of the walls, and therefore, it is more than suitable for insulating rooms from the inside and outside. If the technology is followed in the production of insulation boards, as well as their installation, they become significantly safer than other popular materials involved in repairs and construction.

Another common myth concerns the lack of benefit from façade insulation and the lack of significant heat gain. Indeed, plastering walls over previously installed polystyrene foam will not make the house warmer by itself, but heating it will be much easier - insulated walls retain heat inside the house 30% better than without insulation. Thanks to saving electricity and fuel resources, wall insulation pays for itself in an average of 5 years, after which you will pay significantly less for heating for at least 15 years.

2 Protective layer for foam plastic - puttying and plastering

The most popular way to protect polystyrene foam from environmental influences is plastering. The essence of the process is to create a reinforcing and protective layer that can withstand mechanical damage and completely neutralizes ultraviolet radiation.

The entire process of plastering polystyrene foam is as follows:

special plaster mixtures are prepared (ordinary plaster is not suitable here);
a reinforcing mesh is fixed on top of the polystyrene foam;
the first layer of plaster is applied;
the walls are leveled;
final grouting;
priming the surface for decorative plaster;
finishing with decorative plaster (bark beetle, mosaic).

It would seem that it is quite easy to figure out how to plaster and rub foam plastic, and this operation can be done either with your own hands or by hiring a construction team at a reasonable price. In both cases, do not make basic mistakes - buy only specialized mixtures for polystyrene foam, do not skimp on foam fasteners. If you are determined to do all the work yourself, watch the training videos.

Today, the most trusted manufacturers of plaster for foam plastic and similar materials are the companies Ecomix and Ceresit. It is very important that the putty used for foam plastic different time, was from only one manufacturer. On average, about 4 kg of mixture is consumed per square meter in the process of grouting the mesh, and up to 6 kg for the main layer of plaster. You don’t have to count the final grouting layer - just take mixtures with a margin of 8–10%.

3 Plastering technology - we work on polystyrene foam with our own hands

Working with polystyrene foam is a pleasure - even slabs of expanded polystyrene, maintained in strictly defined parameters, are installed in a matter of hours. But plastering the walls will take longer. We start everything by mixing the mixture - we do this strictly according to the instructions from the manufacturer. True, in practice, the mixture for gluing the reinforcing mesh should be made somewhat thinner - in this case it penetrates better into all the cells.

And for the grout layer, the consistency should be liquid and fluid, which is not written in the instructions.

Plaster mesh is a mandatory attribute when plastering polystyrene foam. You can find out what it looks like from the video. It is thanks to this element that the composition will adhere to polystyrene foam. Since the mixture contains cement, the mesh should be selected from alkali-resistant ones. The denser the mesh you choose, the easier it will be to plaster with your own hands. Glue the plaster mesh using a universal mixture, starting from the corners and slopes.

For ease of work, cut strips of the required length (we focus on the height of the wall, leave a small margin) and a width of 30–60 cm. Gluing begins from top to bottom, from the top edge of the mesh - holding it with one hand, with the other, using a spatula, apply the solution in a solid line along the entire edge . Layer thickness is about 5 mm. As soon as the mixture sets, we begin to secure the strip along the entire width, moving from top to bottom.

Keep in mind that it is correct to install the adjacent strip with an overlap of at least a centimeter, so you should always leave a space free of plaster on the previous strip, as shown in the video. This is exactly how we move gradually along the entire perimeter of the wall and secure the reinforcing mesh. On level places without corners or slopes, you can cut the material into pieces up to 1 meter wide, no more. You simply won’t have time to glue more, since the gluing mixture dries very quickly.

The next stage is grouting the mesh with your own hands. To do this you will need a plastic grater with an emery cloth. The procedure is carried out only on a dried layer of plaster into which the mesh has been glued. In hot summer weather, it is enough to wait a few hours, but in damp, cloudy weather - a day. Rubbing should be done in a circular motion, applying little effort. From time to time, the sanding cloth should be knocked out of dust and replaced with a new one.

Be sure to wear safety glasses and a respirator. After completing this stage, we proceed to applying the main leveling layer. He will need the same plaster mixture and two spatulas with wide and narrow blades. Using a small spatula, apply the mixture onto a wider one and spread it over the surface with wide movements. Layer thickness – 3–5 mm. To get started, watch videos with examples of work and practice small area. According to the technology, the joints of the leveling layer sections should be located as far as possible from the joints of the mesh.

Then all that remains is to wait until the leveling plaster dries and rub it in according to the same principles as the plaster mesh. It is important not to delay this - you have up to 4 days. Then, every day the material will become stronger, and a lot of effort will have to be spent on grouting.

It is imperative to apply a finishing decorative finish to the prepared (primed) wall surface, for example, apply it yourself textured plaster under a fur coat or using the “bark beetle” technology. Many people do not consider it necessary to plaster the walls again, but thanks to this layer, the insulation of the facade will last much longer.

Plastering polystyrene foam with your own hands - learning the technology of how to plaster polystyrene foam Video

Do-it-yourself polystyrene foam plaster - quite affordable way protect the material from ultraviolet radiation and damage. Watch the video to see how the foam plastering process takes place.

IN Lately additional insulation residential buildings began to be carried out quite actively, and thermal insulation material is most often placed under the finishing layer. Many developers want to know how to plaster foam plastic fixed to the side surfaces from the outside. However, in fact, almost any mixture with a large grain intended for facades can be used, since the permeability of vapor through the layers is not regulated.

To treat the surface of foam plastic, universal facade finishing plasters can be used, which are resistant to temperature changes and moisture. Thanks to the reinforcing mesh, you can achieve maximum adhesion to the surface of the insulation, especially if you grout it. During these activities, it is recommended to use a plastic grater with an emery cloth.

Mortars based on white Portland cement, lime hydrate and light fillers are considered very durable. They adhere perfectly to many types of surfaces, protecting the interior from fungi and many microorganisms.

The low cost of products allows even the poorest segments of the population to cladding the walls of houses and other buildings.

Good characteristics allow you to create finishing coatings with a long service life.

Vapor permeability is a property that allows the product to be used on surfaces with low diffusion resistance.

Due to the absence of influence in the form of sudden temperature changes on the material, operation is allowed in many parts of the world.

Due to its natural origin, the product is not hazardous to the environment.

How and with what to plaster polystyrene foam

The service life of these solutions exceeds the period of operation of the above products, but they do not allow steam to pass through, so it is quite difficult to ensure a comfortable microclimate in the interior without special equipment. This type of product is supplied in the form of a ready-made introduction-dispersion mixture. Can be used with thermal insulation material like styrofoam.

The products are made on the basis of liquid glass, which makes them resistant to even aggressive environmental conditions. If we are talking about reliable protection any insulation, then the choice should be made in favor of this mixture, but you will have to pay a fairly significant amount for the quality of the product. More often, the product is purchased if the object is located in industrial and other areas with increased pollution.

Choosing the right composition is not an important matter, since the quality of the coating will depend largely on the correctness of the work. In the process of finishing activities, you will have to face some features that, when ordinary plaster Dont Have special significance. When carrying out all the actions yourself, you should take into account many points.

When kneading, instructions from the manufacturer are used, which are reflected directly on the packaging. However, many experts recommend using compounds with a consistency slightly thinner than indicated on the pack for fixing the reinforcing mesh, and for the leveling layer it is advisable to dilute the composition even more. The mixture should slowly drain from the spatula.

Before plastering the surface of the insulation (in in this case made of foamed plastic), it is necessary to achieve reliable adhesion. That is, to obtain high-quality adhesion to the surface of thermal insulating foam boards. To do this, a special mesh is glued to the side surfaces.

1. First of all, the reinforced layer is cut into pieces, and it is not recommended to make fragments longer than one meter, since they are unlikely to be fixed.

2. When using a spatula, apply universal solution on the side plane of the building. The area covered is determined by the size of the reinforcement mesh used.

3. After covering the desired part of the wall with the mixture, a coupling sheet is applied and smoothed from the center to the edges. The mesh is almost completely immersed in the adhesive liquid.

4. After attaching one strip to the wall, the other part is fixed, and a small overlap is made so that the joints are well glued.

Attention! When reinforcing plaster, loose areas should be left on all sides, otherwise the joint will be too thick, which will be visible through the finishing treatment.

The glued mesh is subjected to a grouting process, which involves treating the surface of the canvas with a special plastic grater. Work is carried out after the applied composition has dried. In the hot season, hardening occurs within a few hours, but in cold conditions it is recommended to wait at least 24 hours.

1. A layer is applied directly to the worn mesh, which is needed to smooth out the protruding parts. In this case, the mixture spreads over the surface in small areas.

2. The dried layer is also rubbed with a plastic grater. The process continues until a sufficiently flat plane is formed. Treatment should not be carried out later than four days from the date of application.

3. To decorative cladding held up well, the created layer must be primed for leveling. If you plan to paint the walls being treated, then choose a composition without the presence of quartz grains.

4. The final layer of finishing coating is formed with a spatula. The thickness depends on the size of the grains that are included in the mixture.

How and with what to plaster polystyrene foam - Easy and Simple

Many developers want to know how to plaster foam plastic fixed to the side surfaces from the outside.

How to plaster polystyrene foam outside

Polystyrene foam is a popular insulation material that has a number of advantages. But at the same time, it is not resistant to ultraviolet radiation and aggressive chemicals, and is quite fragile. To extend the service life of polystyrene foam, it must somehow be protected from the effects of destructive factors. Despite the low strength of the material, it can be plastered over polystyrene foam. Plaster will not only protect the material, but also give the surface a pleasant appearance.

How to plaster polystyrene foam?

Many people wonder whether it is possible to plaster polystyrene foam cement mortar? No, you shouldn't do this. There are special plaster mixtures for polystyrene foam and related polystyrene materials. Although they contain cement, they also contain special additives that ensure a strong connection to the surface of the foam.

To ensure that the plaster adheres well to the surface of the foam plastic, a plaster mesh is used. The denser the mesh is used, the smoother the plastered surface will be, but also the more difficult it is to paste over corners and bends.

The mixture is diluted in accordance with the instructions and proportions indicated on the package. You shouldn’t violate the manufacturers’ recommendations, but if anything, it’s better to make the mixture too liquid rather than too thick, because this way the mesh will stick better to the surface of the foam.

It is important to use plaster from the same manufacturer throughout the entire work. Due to possible differences in composition, reactions between products different brands may be unpredictable.

Specifically, what is the best way to plaster over polystyrene foam? The most popular products from the following manufacturers:

Procedure for plastering work

Plastering begins from the corners. In order for the mesh to fit well on them and not come off, you must first bend it so that a trace of the bend remains, or simply purchase ready-made corners. The mixture is applied a few mm thick, a mesh is inserted into it and secured with pressing and smoothing movements in the direction from the corners to the center of the surface.

You should not immediately stick too wide strips of mesh (more than a meter) onto the wall surface itself, because due to the speed of setting of the solution, they will not be able to be fixed well. The mesh is pressed into the mixture and secured by moving the spatula from the center to the edges. A gap of several centimeters should be left at the joints for gluing and connecting individual sheets of mesh to each other.

After the first layer on which the mesh was glued has dried and sanded with a plastic float and sandpaper, a leveling layer also 2-3 mm thick is applied. The work is carried out with two spatulas. Using a narrow spatula, spread the mixture onto a wide one, spread it onto the wall surface and level it. It is advisable that the joints of individual plastered areas do not coincide with the joints of the mesh fabrics, this way the plaster will hold more firmly.

Before you apply the leveling layer, you should allow the plaster to dry. In dry and warm weather, a few hours may be enough for this; in cool and damp weather, at least a day will be required. But you shouldn’t delay sanding too much, otherwise the plaster will gain a lot of strength, and you’ll have to put in a lot of effort. After sanding, you can prime the walls and apply the finishing coat. It is important to understand that the better you plaster the foam, the longer it will last and the fewer problems it will cause during operation.

Plaster for foam plastic

The mass of polystyrene foam is 98% filled with air. Thanks to this, the foam has high thermal insulation and soundproofing. In addition, polystyrene foam is unusually lightweight material. In construction, polymer boards are used to insulate walls both outside and inside buildings.

The insulation is very fragile and is “afraid” of ultraviolet radiation. Insulation cladding needs a protective coating. Foam plaster is used as such a layer. This article will answer the questions: how to plaster polystyrene foam and how best to do it.

Why is polystyrene foam plastered?

Plastering the facade will protect the material from mechanical damage

Finishing polymer coating solves a number of problems:

Protects the insulation surface from accidental mechanical impacts.
The finish acts as a barrier to moisture penetration into the polymer. When left in a humid environment for a long time, the foam, saturated with moisture, loses its thermal insulation qualities.
The finishing blocks access to ultraviolet rays to the surface of the polymer. Under the influence of UV radiation, the structure of the material is destroyed.
In the event of a fire, the foam becomes an obstacle to the further spread of fire. The polymer burns only when exposed to very high temperatures.

Types of plaster for foam plastic

Dry mixtures must be kneaded yourself

Foam plaster differs from standard compositions. The finishing mixture is sold dry in paper bags. Prepare wall plaster over polystyrene foam by diluting the dry mixture with water.

Finishing mixtures are divided into two types according to their purpose:

For exterior plastering of polystyrene foam, special compositions are used, which include various frost-resistant and moisture-proof additives. Foam plaster for facades is divided into two types:

Mineral

The basis of the mineral mixture is cement, gypsum and sand.

This composition for external use is attractive due to its fairly low price.

It should be noted that with the slightest deviation from the coating technology, the plaster may crack and collapse in places after 2-3 years.

Acrylic mixtures are suitable for creating decorative finishing

Acrylic foam coating has high adhesive and protective properties. Decorative coatings are formed based on an acrylic mixture.

Finishing mixtures are well painted in different colors, which allows you to design building facades in a wide range of colors.

Plaster for interior decoration foam plastic

Coverage for interior works does not require the addition of frost-resistant and especially moisture-resistant ingredients, so the mixture is much cheaper than a façade coating.

As well as facade finishing, internal plaster has a mineral and acrylic base.

If suddenly plastering of polystyrene foam was done indoors façade composition, then it won't do any harm. Otherwise, when the plastered walls are coated with a product for interior work, the finishing layer will quickly collapse.

Preparatory work

A needle roller will help create an interesting texture.

Before plastering the foam, you need to prepare the surface of the polystyrene foam boards. For this you need the following tools and materials:

needle roller;
container for preparing plaster;
drill with screw attachment;
reinforcing mesh;
grouting with sandpaper;
set of spatulas;
dry plaster mixture;
primer.

Expanded polystyrene is a material with low adhesion. The needle roller creates a mesh on the surface of the insulation consisting of punctures to a depth of 8 mm. This increases the adhesion of the putty to polystyrene foam. For more information on how to plaster a facade insulated with polystyrene foam, see this video:

After the putty layer has dried, the foam is plastered.

Plastering polystyrene foam boards

Plastering is done using a reinforcing mesh

Plastering foam plastic is carried out as follows:

Undried fragments of the coating quickly clog the abrasive, so you must make sure that the plaster is completely dry and only then begin grouting work.

Foam finishing

To create a texture, use special tools

The finished wall surface can be painted. Most often, the finishing layer of insulation cladding is made of decorative plaster. The method for plastering polystyrene foam with a decorative composition is quite simple.

The decorative layer is formed using different tools: a roller with a relief pattern, brushes of different sizes or a porous sponge.

Such methods of applying decorative finishing are acceptable for both interior walls, and for the facade. For more information about finishing, watch this video:

When finishing a façade made of polystyrene foam “like a fur coat” tothe plaster mortar is mixed river sand, gravel, slag and even granite chips. Add to the mixture desired color pigments. Throw a plaster solution onto the primed surface of the foam with a trowel. Thanks to solid inclusions, the finishing of the building facade acquires a relief surface.

Choosing putty for foam plastic

How and with what to glue foam plastic to the wall

Optimal foam thickness for wall insulation

Features of plastering on foam plastic

Foam plastic is one of the most popular insulation materials for building facades. Foam sheets offer a number of benefits, but are also susceptible to UV rays, temperature changes and humidity. Besides this, his decorative properties leave much to be desired, which is why most people plaster on foam plastic.

What should the finishing material be?

Let's look at how to plaster polystyrene foam. Since we are talking about external work, facade plaster on foam plastic must withstand low temperatures and various atmospheric influences, so you can immediately forget about gypsum solutions. Only cement-based plasters are suitable. but not prepared independently from sand, cement and water, but special ones, to which special components are added to ensure the strength and durability of the coating.

Mixtures for exterior foam plastering

To plaster a polystyrene foam façade, two types of mixtures are required. The first is used for gluing the reinforcing mesh, and the second for leveling the surface. There are also universal mixtures that are suitable for both types of work. If you decide to buy adhesive and leveling materials separately, then it is better to choose the products of one company. Glue consumption is 4 kg per square meter, and plaster consumption is 6 kg. The universal mixture will need 10 kg per square meter.

Required tools and supplies

Before carrying out this procedure, you need to prepare the following:

container, electric drill with a mixer attachment for mixing the solution;
glue, scissors and reinforcing mesh for arranging the base;
primer, as well as rollers or brushes for applying it;
plaster for foam plastic, spatulas (wide and narrow), sandpaper or sander for the main stage of work.

A complete set of tools necessary for plastering work on polystyrene foam

Preparing the mixture

The solution must be mixed according to the instructions provided by the manufacturer on the packaging. However, there are universal recommendations:

First pour a little water into the container, then add the dry mixture and mix. Then add liquid, stirring constantly until the solution acquires the consistency of thick sour cream.
The solution is left for 10-15 minutes, after which it is mixed again.

Preparing a mixture for plastering walls

Cement mixtures take a long time to harden, so you need to prepare a large portion at once so as not to interrupt the finishing process.
The mixer attachment should be washed immediately after preparing one portion of the solution.
To mix the solution, you must use clean water so that no rust fragments or other elements get into the plaster.

Installation of reinforcing mesh

Before plastering the foam, you need to install a metal mesh. This element significantly increases the strength of the entire coating.

Strengthening the base with a reinforced mesh will prevent the appearance of cracks and the collapse of the plaster after drying.

On a note! It is better to choose a mesh with a density of about 160 g per square meter. m. The higher this indicator, the better the plaster will adhere, but it is important to remember that it is difficult to install a too dense product on corners.

You need to start work by designing corners, door and window openings. You need to take the reinforcing mesh and cut off a fragment from it 30 cm wide and a length equal to the length of the slope, if we are talking about openings. For corners, the length should be 1 m. Then you need to bend the mesh so that its edges touch and iron the bend. This is done to ensure that the product retains its shape. Using a spatula, apply glue or a universal mixture to the foam, and then press the reinforcing mesh onto it. For closer contact between the product and the wall, you need to iron the mesh with a spatula. It is important to ensure that the mesh does not move anywhere from the surface to be plastered and is buried in the solution to the same depth. Then you can start gluing the main surfaces.

The mesh is cut into fragments of 1x1 m. You can make them larger - only if several people are working, it will be too difficult for one person. The pre-prepared solution is applied to the wall in a strip, the length of which should be 1 m and the width 0.9 m. The remaining 10 cm should be left for gluing the joints. The thickness of the solution layer should be 3 mm.

Now you need to glue the mesh and iron it with a spatula. You need to start smoothing from the center and go up and down. As a result, the product should completely drown in the solution. After smoothing, you need to apply and stretch a small amount of solution over the mesh to hide it. Next, you need to glue the next piece of the reinforcing mesh overlapping. The joints are glued last. However, they should not stand out from the overall picture.

After the glue has dried (the time is indicated by the manufacturer on the packaging), you need to rub it in. To do this, use sandpaper; for convenience, you can place it in a special plastic holder. The paper is pressed against the surface to be treated and circular movements are performed. The canvas needs to be changed regularly. The entire surface of the walls is treated in this way, after which they begin to apply the base layer.

Wall alignment

This procedure is carried out as follows:

Use a wide spatula to scoop up the pre-prepared solution and transfer it to the surface.
After this, simply stretch the plaster over the wall area so that a layer of 3 mm is obtained.
When the processing of all facades is completed, you need to pause for 2-4 days to allow the solution to dry.
The last step will be to grout the surface, which is carried out in the same way as in the case of glue.

Leveling the wall surface

Preparation before applying the decorative layer

To prepare polystyrene foam for decorative plaster, the first thing you need to do is prime the surface. Compositions with quartz sand or flour are excellent for this. The material is poured into a painting container and a roller or brush is dipped into it. The tool is pressed against the ribbed surface of the container, after which the surface is treated with it. The procedure is repeated twice with an interval of 3-4 hours.

Before applying decorative material, you should arrange a starting layer. For this purpose, special white plasters are used. The composition is applied to the plastered wall fragment in the same way as the leveling mortar, but the thickness of the layer must correspond to the grain size.

After the material has dried, the surface is treated with sandpaper. If this effect is sufficient, then the walls are covered with a layer of colorless varnish and the process of plastering the foam is completed. Instead of varnish, you can use paints for external work.

Finishing the walls

Application of decorative plaster

If it was decided to create a textured or textured surface, then you need to carry out a few more manipulations. To plaster polystyrene foam with decorative material, you need to perform the following steps:

Apply a deep penetration primer to the base layer and allow it to dry.
Then they prepare a special decorative mortar, for example, bark beetle.
Using wide spatulas, apply and stretch the material, after which it is allowed to dry a little.
After this, using a grater or a figured trowel, process the entire surface, pressing the tool tightly against the wall and moving from bottom to top.
The surface is then left to dry before being painted. First, apply the first layer of paint, after it dries, apply the second, which will be 1-2 tones lighter.
The last step will be applying varnish.

To create an invoice you need to do the following:

Creating an unusual texture of decorative plaster using basic improvised means

Apply a thin layer of decorative plaster.
Take a roller paint brush, an ordinary sponge or even a crumpled plastic bag.
Using gentle movements, without pressing on the surface, process the entire wall with the selected tool, while you can try to create a specific pattern or make chaotic movements.
After this, you need to let the plaster dry.
Then the surface is again treated with a primer to increase adhesion and painted. This stage also completely depends on the worker’s imagination: you can choose a single-color color, or you can apply several layers, each of which will be lighter than the previous one. At the end, varnish is also applied.

Important! When carrying out decorative plastering, the temperature should vary from +5 to +30 degrees, and humidity – 65-75%. Do not carry out work during rain or strong wind.

Plastering polystyrene foam with your own hands is a fairly simple process that even a person without any experience can handle. It is only important to follow the above instructions and the manufacturers' recommendations.

How and with what to plaster polystyrene foam?

To plaster walls made of polystyrene foam, you need to choose only a universal mixture for plaster; you should not take a two-component one, since one of the components is used for gluing the foam plastic, and in order to get perfect surface It is better to use one material. You can choose any manufacturer that is available in your area, the main thing is that the plaster complies with GOST.

So, before plastering the wall, you first need to prepare it:

The first thing to do is to inspect the foam and remove debris, dust and other particles from it.

Next, you need to glue the plaster mesh to the foam. You need to choose it knowing the following information - the denser the mesh itself, the better plaster It will hold, but it’s difficult to work the corners with a dense mesh.

You need to start pasting the mesh from the corners; to do this, cut a strip of about 30 centimeters and bend it along the entire length. Apply the solution to the corner and glue the mesh.

We cut the grid approximately 1 at a time square meter and glue them one by one. You should not glue more than 1 meter, as the solution may dry out and not stick anything.

After the mesh is glued to the wall and has dried, the wall must be wiped down!

The next stage is applying a primer, preferably with quartz grains.

The last step is to apply the final (base) layer of plaster; it can be applied in various types, it all depends on the decor.

the moderator chose this answer as the best

If it was planned in advance that the wall insulated with foam plastic would be plastered, then when installing (fastening) foam plastic boards under the umbrella dowels, pressing the foam plastic, a special mesh for the plaster is immediately rolled out, it can be metal or polymer. Metal can be made of galvanized and ferrous and bimetallic metal, with different cell diameters and weaving methods, the cheapest is made by stamping and stretching, and the most expensive is made of bimetal, welded braided, but polymer ones are also thick-walled, almost like a mesh for arches and up to the quality of thin mosquitoes, I would recommend a metal, galvanized, woven mesh - it will attract better and will keep its shape. If the mesh is not immediately attached, then we must attach it with fasteners (corks and frosts), I personally don’t trust gluing polymer, it won’t last long, but screwed-on metal reinforcement is a thing. We take plaster for facade work, buy a dark one (the color resembles cerasite tile adhesive), it contains more cement and less plaster, it will last longer and we plaster, this manipulation is no different from ordinary plaster, we go through it the first time and level the surface, give it time dry (note that it takes longer to dry on foam plastic than on brick wall, so you may have to wait a day!) and the second time we apply a layer of about 5mm, leveling it with a spatula as a rule and rubbing it with a plaster board. When the solution dries and hardens, it can be painted in about 3 days.

If the surface of the foam is in direct contact with the environment, then it must be protected from damage and its service life increased. And this can be done by simply plastering the foam. It is important to choose the right composition for plaster.

You can use dry mixtures from the manufacturers Polymin9, Ceresit9, Stolit9. Or you can use universal compounds that can be used to prime, plaster and glue to the base surface.

First, clean the surface from construction dirt. Check that all foam panels are well secured. If the panel is glossy, be sure to go over it with a hard grater until grooves appear. Cover the surface of the foam with a deep penetration primer.

According to the instructions, dilute the solution, stir well, and this is best done using an electric drill with a whisk.

First, make the reinforcement: apply the prepared solution to the surface of the foam with a spatula thin layer 2-3mm for a small area (about 1m2). Cut the plaster mesh to the appropriate size, apply it to the layer of mortar and gently press it into it. In this way, secure the mesh over the entire surface of the foam.

After a day, when the solution has dried and the mesh is securely glued, you can begin plastering. The solution is applied to a grater and grouted using circular and linear movements. Can also be applied with a wide spatula, layer 3 mm. The surface of the foam is smooth and does not require a thick layer of mortar.

Polystyrene foam is very popular now, especially for external insulation buildings. Plastering it is the most popular way to protect polystyrene foam from external influences and decoration.

The main stages of work are as follows:

Selection and preparation for work of plaster mixtures
Installation of plaster mesh on walls
Grouting on a grid
Leveling walls with plaster
Grouting this leveling layer
Surface priming
Finish of your choice

The main nuance of plastering on polystyrene foam is the mandatory installation of a plaster mesh. First the corners are glued with a mesh, then the main surface is glued in small pieces (no more than a meter). It is better to use universal mixtures from any manufacturer: Ceresit, Ecomix, Stolit, etc. That is, mixtures that can be used to attach both foam plastic and mesh, as well as level the surface. After the walls with the mesh have dried, they must be rubbed with a little effort using a grater and emery cloth. Then we continue work by applying the composition to the mesh, leveling it in a thin layer.

The main working spatula in this case is 350mm. Well, at least it's convenient for me.

After gluing, the foam must be covered with a protective layer. To do this, it is plastered, which is made with special adhesives for constructing a reinforcing layer (group ZK5).

Using a notched spatula

glue is applied to the surface of the foam,

then a reinforcing mesh with a density of 145 g/m2 is embedded in it, then the surface is leveled with a trowel.

The average thickness of the reinforcing layer is 3 mm, but not more than 5 mm. After drying, but not earlier than 24 hours, the uneven surfaces are sanded, primed with a deeply penetrating primer, and finished with putty, possibly for painting or decorative plaster.

Technological map of the thermal insulation system of one of the adhesive manufacturers.

Here it should be noted that attaching foam plastic to the surface and plastering it (foam plastic) are indistinguishable parts of one action (foam plastic cannot be left unprotected for a long time), it is possible to apply a base plaster layer and gluing (attaching) foam plastic to the surface with the same solutions.

Here, for example, is Ceresit CT 83 (Ceresit).

This is a dry mixture based on cement, diluted with water.

But if your foam plastic is already fixed (the glue + the dowel is flexible) and all that remains is to plaster it, then you need a façade glass mesh.

Attached to the surface with the same solution.

The first layer with the mesh pressed into it about 3 mm, apply the solution with spatulas.

After drying, sanding.

Primer with drying and a second leveling layer.

Finish with decorative plaster.

Here is a general “pie” to help.

Plastering on polystyrene foam has its own characteristics that must always be taken into account.

For plastering we use only those mixtures that are designed to work with polystyrene materials. For example, they will fit perfectly "Ceresit", "Ecomix", "Stolit" and others that will be offered to you in the store.

When purchasing material in a store, please note that the consumption will be 10 kilograms per square meter (4 kg/m2 for gluing the mesh and up to 6 kg/m2 for further leveling).

Dilute and stir the plaster mixture strictly according to the instructions supplied by the manufacturer.

To keep the plaster well need a mesh. The reinforcement is done like this: putty is applied in a layer of several millimeters, and then the mesh is pressed tightly into the solution. After a day, you can finally plaster, apply a leveling layer, then prime, and finally decorative plaster.

How and with what to plaster polystyrene foam after creating a thermal insulation layer

Recently, additional insulation of residential buildings has begun to be carried out quite actively, and thermal insulation material is most often placed under the finishing layer. Many developers want to know how to plaster the foam plastic attached to the side surfaces from the outside.

However, in fact, almost any coarse-grain mixture intended for facades can be used, since the permeability of vapor through the layers is not regulated.

The photo shows a residential building insulated with foam plastic.

Compositions used

To finish the foam surface, universal facade finishing plasters can be used. which are resistant to temperature changes and moisture. Thanks to the reinforcing mesh, you can achieve maximum adhesion to the surface of the insulation, especially if you grout it. During these activities, it is recommended to use a plastic grater with an emery cloth.

Mineral mixtures

Thanks to such compositions, it is possible to create an amazing texture, making the walls aesthetically attractive.

The low price of the product makes it possible for even poorer sections of the population to cladding the walls of houses and other buildings.
Good strength characteristics make it possible to create finishing coatings with a long service life.
Vapor permeability is a property that allows the product to be used on surfaces with weak diffusion resistance.
Resistance to biological influences virtually eliminates the appearance of mold, fungi and other harmful microorganisms.
Due to the absence of influences in the form of sudden temperature changes on the material, it can be used in many parts of the world.
Due to its natural origin, it is a product that does not carry environmental hazard for the environment.

Table for comparing different types of plasters.

The presented variety of plaster mixtures combines well with thermal insulation like foam plastic, as it provides high-quality adhesion and protects the insulation from all kinds of influences.

Acrylic compounds

The service life of these solutions exceeds the period of operation of the above products, but they do not allow steam to pass through, so it is quite difficult to ensure a comfortable microclimate in the interior without special equipment. This type of product is supplied in the form of a ready-made introduction-dispersion mixture. It can be used with thermal insulation material like foam plastic.

Silicone solutions

The products are made on the basis of liquid glass, which makes them resistant to even aggressive environmental conditions. If we are talking about reliable protection of any insulation, then the choice should be made in favor of this mixture, but you will have to pay a rather impressive amount for the quality of the product. Most often, the product is purchased if the object is located in industrial and other areas with increased pollution.

Some samples of silicone mixtures.

Carrying out finishing

Choosing the right composition is not the most important thing, since the quality of the coating will depend largely on the correctness of the work. In the process of finishing activities, you will have to deal with some features that are not of particular importance during ordinary plastering. When carrying out all the actions yourself, many points should be taken into account.

Preparing the mixture

When mixing, use the instructions from the manufacturer, which are reflected directly on the packaging. However, many experts recommend using compounds with a consistency slightly thinner than indicated on the pack for fixing the reinforcing mesh, and for the leveling layer it is advisable to dilute the composition even more. The mixture should slowly drain from the spatula.

Improved grip

Before plastering on the surface of the insulation (in this case, made of foamed plastic), it is necessary to achieve reliable adhesion. That is, to obtain high-quality adhesion to the surface of thermal insulating foam boards.

To do this, a special mesh is glued to the side surfaces.

Plastering using mesh is shown.

First of all, the reinforcing layer is cut into pieces, and it is not recommended to make fragments larger than one meter, since it is unlikely that they will be fixed.
Using a spatula, apply a universal solution to the side surface of the building. The area covered is determined by the size of the reinforcement mesh used.
After covering the desired part of the wall with the mixture, an adhesive sheet is applied and smoothed from the center to the edges. The mesh is almost completely immersed in the adhesive liquid.
After attaching one strip to the wall, the other part is fixed, and a small overlap is made so that the joints are well glued.

Structure of the finishing coating.

When reinforcing plaster, you should leave loose areas on all sides, otherwise you will end up with a joint that is too thick and will be visible through the finish.

Actions with the reinforcing layer

Grouting options: a – round, b – with expansion.

Applying leveling and finishing layers

A layer is applied directly to the worn mesh, which is needed to smooth out the protruding parts. In this case, the mixture spreads over the surface in small areas.
The dried layer is also rubbed with a plastic grater. The process continues until a sufficiently flat plane is formed. Treatment should not be carried out later than four days from the date of application.
In order for the decorative cladding to adhere well, the created layer must be primed for leveling. If you plan to paint the walls being finished. then a composition without the presence of quartz grains is selected.

Appearance of the object after applying the finishing layer.

As a conclusion

After studying the information presented, it becomes clear how to choose a suitable solution for finishing work using the plastering method. In addition, useful information about the process itself is provided. The video in this article is necessary for a visual representation of the cladding.

How to plaster polystyrene foam outside

How to plaster polystyrene foam from the outside Foam plastic is a popular material for insulation, which has a number of advantages. But at the same time it is not resistant to ultraviolet radiation and aggressive chemicals, quite

The easiest way to insulate a house is to cover it with polystyrene foam. The material is inexpensive, installation is easy to do on your own, and the energy-saving effect is obvious. And in order to protect such cladding from the harmful effects of the environment, you need to choose a suitable coating for it. The best option here is façade plaster, since it does not require much expense, and anyone can master the application technology.

In addition to practicality, plastering has other advantages: such surfaces can be easily painted and finished with decorative plasters, which gives the facade a special attractiveness. By choosing the right colors, you can make your home different from others, highlight architectural features or disguise imperfections. Defects on the coating that appear during operation can be restored without special effort. But in order for the plastering of the facade to be of high quality from the very beginning, you should learn more about what compositions are suitable for this, and how to properly apply them to foam plastic.

When choosing a plaster composition, first of all you need to take into account the characteristics of the foam. This material is not durable, so the protective coating must be sufficiently dense and resistant to mechanical stress. Also, the plaster mixture must have high adhesion to the base, since the foam has a smooth surface. In addition, you need to choose a plaster that is moisture-resistant, plastic, easy to apply and not prone to cracking. But the vapor permeability of the composition is not of great importance, since the vapor permeability of the insulation is very low.

A conventional cement-sand mixture only partially meets these requirements, and it is not advisable to use it on foam plastic. Of course, this is the most budget-friendly composition, but within a year the facade will be covered with small cracks and everything will have to be redone. Therefore, for finishing on foam plastic, it is recommended to use only factory-made plasters containing special additives.

The range of plasters for foam plastic is quite large, but there are brands that are in particular demand: Ceresit, Stolit, Osnovit, Knauf, Ecomix. Manufacturers produce several types of formulations:

for attaching insulation to the base;
to create a leveling layer;
universal.

It is best for a novice master to choose a universal type of plaster that can be used at all stages of finishing with equal efficiency. But even if you prefer to use separate compounds for each process, they should all be from the same manufacturer, and preferably from the same line.

Name	Characteristics
	A universal-purpose cement-based composition. It has good frost resistance (up to 75 cycles), water resistance and excellent adhesion. Consumption ranges from 3.5 to 7 kg/m2
	Acrylic plaster, ready to use. Designed for the formation of thin-layer decorative coatings. It has strength, elasticity, and excellent water-repellent properties. Consumption ranges from 2.6 to 4 kg/m2
	Water-soluble polymer-based mixture, structural. It has excellent performance characteristics and is highly decorative. Consumption is 2.5-3.5 kg/m2
	Plaster and adhesive composition. Has excellent adhesion to polystyrene foam, waterproof, frost-resistant. Consumption is 1.3-1.5 kg/m2

Prices for various types of decorative plaster

Decorative plaster

Plastering technology

Materials for work

Plastering on polystyrene foam has its own characteristics. As a rule, the insulation itself is not primed; plaster compounds adhere to it well. But to strengthen the coating, a reinforcing layer is required, otherwise cracks will appear very quickly. For reinforcement, fiberglass mesh of various densities, resistant to alkalis, is used. The most convenient to work with is the density of 140-160 g/m2 - it provides excellent adhesion and is easy to accept the required form when finishing corner areas.

The leveling layer must be primed in order to increase adhesion between the topcoat and the base, and therefore a primer will also be needed. The choice of composition depends on what kind of coating is planned: for painting, ordinary waterproof primers are used, for decorative plaster, compositions with quartz filler are required.

Facade primer

The plaster mixture must be purchased immediately in full and always of the same brand. This is especially true for decorative plaster. The fact is that each manufacturer has its own manufacturing technology, and the compositions may differ in structure, color, setting time and other characteristics. If used on one plane different plasters, after drying, transitions will be visible, and eliminating them is not at all easy.

Additionally, before starting work, prepare the following tools:

short pile roller for priming;
metal spatulas, narrow and wide;
plastic grater with emery cloth;
construction mixer;
plastic corners with reinforcing mesh.

Construction mixer price

Construction mixer

Preparing the base

After completing the façade cladding, you need to carefully inspect the working area and eliminate minor defects. Empty seams must be filled with polyurethane foam, excess glue must be cut off with a knife, and the joints must be cleaned with sandpaper. The surface must be smooth, without protrusions or depressions, and free of dust. If the foam slabs are too smooth, experienced builders recommend lightly sanding them or rolling them with a special needle roller. This will increase the adhesion of the plaster to the insulation, and the coating will hold tighter.

Fastening the reinforcing mesh

This stage is the most critical, since the quality and durability of the coating depends on it. If the mesh is not secured correctly, during subsequent processing the plaster will peel off from the wall and fall off in pieces.

Step 1. Start by preparing the solution. Take a bucket, pour water at a temperature of 15-20 degrees into it, then add the dry mixture. Here you should strictly adhere to the proportions specified in the manufacturer's instructions. Mix the mixture with a mixer at low speed until smooth, leave for 5 minutes, then mix again. You cannot add water or dry ingredients after this, as this may affect the strength of the plaster. If used ready-made composition, you just need to stir it in case the particles settle.

Step 2. Corners, slopes and areas with complex configurations are finished first. Perforated corners with a fiberglass mesh attached to them are designed for this purpose.

Some make do with just the mesh itself, cutting it into strips 30 cm wide and bending it in half lengthwise. The savings here are insignificant, and the strength of the coating on the corners is noticeably lower, so it is better to use the corners.

So, take the solution onto a spatula and apply it on both sides of the corner to its entire height.

There is no need to level anything yet, the main thing is that the corner is covered with a continuous strip. Next, apply a corner, lightly press it to the surface, and check the vertical level. When leveling, press the profile into the solution along its entire length, and then take a spatula and carefully smooth the mesh from the corner to the sides and down. If necessary, add a little more mixture so that both the mesh and the profile itself are evenly immersed in the solution. Excess mass is removed with a spatula.

Step 3. After reinforcing the corners, proceed to the slopes. First, the corner is applied to the opening, the required length is measured and the excess is cut off. Then the solution is applied and the profile is secured in the manner described above. If the width of the slopes is too small, it is more convenient to use the corners and mesh separately. This way the mesh will not bulge at the joints and interfere with work. To do this, cover one slope completely with the solution, attach the inner and outer corners, and remove the excess mixture with a spatula. Cut a strip of fiberglass mesh 10-15 mm wider than the width of the slope and carefully apply it to the surface. The side edges of the mesh should not reach the edge of the corners by approximately 5-7 mm. Smooth along the length of the strip, then to the sides.

Step 4. When all corner zones have been processed, you can begin to reinforce the planes. Since the height of the external walls is quite large, it is difficult to attach the mesh with one sheet. Therefore, it is recommended to cut the material into pieces 1-1.5 m long. The plaster solution is applied to the surface in a continuous strip, starting from the edge of the wall. The height of this strip should be equal to the length of the mesh, and the width should be 5 cm less. The layer is made about 2-3 mm thick.

Take a piece of mesh, apply it to the wall, and even out the edges. Then, using a wide spatula, smooth the mesh from the center to the sides and down until all the material is immersed in the solution. The side edge of the mesh must remain free to a width of at least 5 cm. This is necessary so that the material does not form rough joints after overlapping.

Prices for construction reinforcing mesh

Construction reinforcing mesh

Step 5. Having secured the first piece, proceed to the next. Everything is exactly the same here, only the edge of the mesh protruding from the solution needs to be slightly bent, and the solution must be applied under it too. The new piece is overlapped by 3-5 cm and smoothed with a spatula. After reinforcement, the surface should remain smooth, without sagging, stripes or grooves. During the smoothing process, excess mortar is removed with a spatula and applied where it is missing. It is not allowed to show through the mesh in certain areas, as well as voids under the reinforcing layer. Any defects made at this stage lead to a decrease in the quality of the finish.

Grouting the surface

No matter how hard you try to smooth the surface when reinforcing, there are still small irregularities that can appear under finishing layer. To eliminate them, grouting is done using a plastic float with an emery cloth attached to it. The grain size of the skin is selected depending on the type of finishing coating: for painting use fine grain, for structural plaster- with a large one.

Grouting begins after the plaster layer has dried, that is, in about a day. The grater is applied flat to the wall, pressed a little, and movements begin in a circle counterclockwise. The pressure force should be the same throughout the working process; you cannot rub in one area for a long time. Since the fabric wears out quickly, you will have to change it from time to time. After treating the entire area, the walls are cleaned of dust with a brush.

This time the solution is made more liquid - it should flow freely from the instrument, leaving a translucent continuous trace. Scoop the mixture onto a wide spatula and carefully apply it to the wall in a thin layer - about 1-3 mm. It is most convenient to treat the surface in squares, and mix the solution in small portions to prevent it from hardening. Upon completion of the process, you need to wait until the plaster dries, and then rub the base again.

On next stage The façade is cleaned of dust and primed. For priming, use a short-haired roller and a paint brush. The brush is used to process corners, protrusions, slopes and other areas where it is inconvenient to work with a roller. The primer is applied in 1-2 layers, depending on climatic conditions.

Application of decorative plaster

So, the primer has dried, you can start decorative plaster. Prepare the solution according to the instructions, stirring the dry ingredients with water, or simply stir if using a ready-made composition. Apply it with a wide spatula to the wall from bottom to top, ensuring the uniformity of the layer. The thickness of application is usually equal to the size of the filler grains contained in the plaster; information about this must be on the packaging of the mixture. Apply plaster in vertical stripes or squares.

Advice. In order for the entire surface to be uniform, without stains or transitions, it is necessary to plaster it at one time, taking breaks only to prepare the next portion of the solution.

Having distributed the composition over the surface, they begin to form the relief. Most often, special graters are used for this, but you can form a pattern in other ways - with a sponge, a brush with stiff bristles, or a spatula. The most important thing is that the texture is the same over the entire area, and there are no transitions between areas. If the plaster is different in color, this can still be hidden under a layer of paint, but the relief pattern cannot be masked.

Price for structural rollers

Structural rollers

Decorative plaster painted in two shades

It is advisable to perform plastering on foam plastic immediately after the seams have dried. The longer the insulation is exposed to atmospheric influences, the lower its thermal insulation properties. Moreover, such a house cannot be left unfinished for the entire winter.

Plastering should be done in dry, warm weather and on a dry surface. Presence of moisture, dust, greasy stains on polystyrene foam negatively affects the adhesion of the plaster to the base, as a result of which the coating very soon falls off in pieces.

When mixing the solution, strictly follow the proportions and do not add anything other than water. Factory mixtures already contain all the necessary components, and the presence of foreign impurities will only worsen the quality of the plaster. Also follow the specified application thickness - it is better to do 2 thin layers than one thick one.

Foam plastic plastering technology. Facade plaster on polystyrene foam

How can you plaster polystyrene foam?

How to prepare a solution for plaster

How to lay the first layer of plaster

How to grind the primary layer and finish the foam

Why is it necessary to plaster polystyrene foam?

Tools and materials used

Features of working with extruded polystyrene foam

Process technology

Preparation of plaster mortar

Preparation and pasting of the facade with plaster mesh

Rubbing along the façade mesh

Uniform treatment of the facade

Rubbing an even layer of plaster

Primer work

Final decorative finishing of the facade with plaster

What and how to plaster polystyrene foam outside?

Selection of materials

Foam finishing process

Plastering polystyrene foam with your own hands - protecting the insulation from external factors

Required tools and materials

1 Is it possible to plaster penoplex and polystyrene foam - mistakes and misconceptions

2 Protective layer for foam plastic - puttying and plastering

3 Plastering technology - we work on polystyrene foam with our own hands

How and with what to plaster polystyrene foam

How to plaster polystyrene foam outside

How to plaster polystyrene foam?

Procedure for plastering work

Plaster for foam plastic

Why is polystyrene foam plastered?

Types of plaster for foam plastic

Preparatory work

Plastering polystyrene foam boards

Foam finishing

Features of plastering on foam plastic

What should the finishing material be?

Required tools and supplies

Preparing the mixture

Installation of reinforcing mesh

Wall alignment

Preparation before applying the decorative layer

Finishing the walls

How and with what to plaster polystyrene foam?

How and with what to plaster polystyrene foam after creating a thermal insulation layer

Compositions used

Carrying out finishing

As a conclusion

Prices for various types of decorative plaster

Plastering technology

Materials for work

Construction mixer price

Preparing the base

Fastening the reinforcing mesh

Prices for construction reinforcing mesh

Grouting the surface

Application of decorative plaster

Price for structural rollers

Video - Facade plaster on polystyrene foam

Video - Plastering slopes using foam plastic