Parquet board has become a very popular flooring in recent years, as it is one of the most aesthetic materials for flooring. It is suitable for flooring in almost any room of the house or apartment, with the exception of the bathroom (due to high humidity). However, when purchasing a quality floor covering, his correct installation and compliance with the recommendations for operation, even in a humid room, the parquet board can last for a long time.
In any case, it is not enough to buy quality coating- its durability depends on proper styling. Call the master? - it can be expensive, comparable to the cost of the material. Maybe you should try doing this yourself? Why not, if you apply your skills and diligence. So, styling parquet board do-it-yourself step-by-step instructions with illustrations.
The structure of the parquet board
First of all, let's remember once again what lies under the term "parquet board".
This type of coating, as an alternative, was patented back in 1941. During its development, a higher resistance to external influences was achieved, with a significant reduction in the cost of the material. Initially, the parquet board consisted of two layers. Subsequently, with the advent innovative technologies, it was repeatedly modernized, however, the material of its manufacture remained unchanged - natural wood. Thanks to this, this flooring has remained very popular for many decades. In particular, the parquet board has become popular recently, when eco-style is reviving in designer fashion.
Today, as a rule, three-layer parquet boards go on sale, which first appeared on the market in 1946 and turned out to be much more practical than the original version. The Tarkett company began to produce this coating, which to this day supplies its products around the world, while remaining a leader in this field of production.
The strength and durability of this flooring is due to the structural structure of the board. Each of the layers of the "pie" has different thickness. Well, the position of the wood fibers in each of the subsequent layers have a direction perpendicular to the previous one. In the lower and upper layers, the fibers run along the board, and in the middle, respectively, across. It is this arrangement that gives the material strength and eliminates the risk of deformation.
- Upper layer The parquet board is made from high quality hardwood. The layer is not only decorative - it has excellent wear resistance, has a thickness of at least four millimeters. Since the quality of this material depends appearance parquet boards, the wood for the top layer is carefully selected. The lamellas from which the board is made must not have any defects. They are selected according to the textured pattern, as well as the color shade. The slats are adjusted to each other, glued together, and then fixed to the base also with glue. Some models of parquet boards have a solid coating made of high quality natural veneer. They are also called single-strip boards.
- For the manufacture of the middle layer are usually used conifers wood. The blanks have semi-vertical or vertical annual rings, which are able to evenly distribute the load and give increased stability to the material. This layer consists of equally wide (20 ÷ 30 mm) perfectly processed dies, which are laid across. The thickness of the middle layer is 7÷8 mm. On it, as a rule, lock connections are located - figured grooves and spikes.
- The bottom layer consists of one or two whole boards and is stabilizing. It creates a reliable and stable support for the upper structure and prevents its deflection. The thickness of this layer is no more than 4 mm.
The surface of the outer layer of the finished parquet board is carefully polished, and then covered with protective and decorative compounds, which are applied in several layers - this is putty, then a primer, lining and decorative varnish, which, after application, hardens under the influence of ultraviolet radiation. Thanks to the outer layer, the finished coating becomes resistant to fading and mechanical damage. Such a floor covering does not need additional varnishing after laying.
Advantages and disadvantages of parquet board
Like any other floor covering, parquet boards have their advantages and disadvantages. They are best viewed by comparing it with other popular floor coverings.
- The main advantage of a parquet board, in comparison with linoleum and laminate, is its environmental friendliness, since it is made only from natural wood.
- A parquet board, with high-quality installation, is indistinguishable from natural parquet, and a film with a textured wood pattern is applied to linoleum and laminate. V best case, the laminate can be coated natural veneer glued on MDF.
- In a parquet board, solid wood is used only for the top layer, and piece parquet is made entirely of natural wood, but it also costs several times more than the first. However, the parquet board is more resistant to deformation processes than the parquet, as it has the construction described above - the alternation of layers with different directions fibers. Parquet is rather moody material that requires periodic maintenance, and if everything is left to chance, the wood may swell from high humidity or begin to dry out when there is not enough moisture. As a result, parquet slabs begin to deform - to bend and warp.
- Compared to the same parquet, the parquet board is much faster and more convenient to lay, as it has a large size. In addition, laying the board does not require special skills. It is enough to have a ready-made even base for coatings and instructions for its installation.
Parquet is not so easy to lay, and therefore they are engaged in its flooring. professional craftsmen, whose work is quite expensive.
- In the case when any mistakes were made when laying the parquet board, they can be corrected if the material was not mounted on glue. With parquet, making corrections will be much more difficult.
- Unlike parquet, parquet board goes on sale with applied protective coating and can be used for a long time without additional processing. Parquet, after its flooring, requires scraping, and then coating with special oil or
- A parquet board can imitate parquet, the slabs of which are laid in rows with a shift relative to each other, and also in the form of plank floorboards.
- The parquet board perfectly imitates the wooden floor. And the latter is rarely made of valuable wood, as it costs too much. But a parquet board covered with a layer of expensive wood will cost much less.
- The service life of a parquet board is 20÷30 years, depending on the quality and timeliness of its care, as well as on the accuracy and intensity of its operation. In contrast, parquet and massive board have more long term service, but require more thorough care - scraping painting or coating with varnish or oil. However, it must be clarified that the parquet board can also be sanded to renew it. And some of its models, which have thick enough the top layer is 6 mm, can be sanded 10 or even more times.
To summarize, we can conclude that the design of the parquet board is less whimsical to maintain than parquet, and also positively differs from laminate and linoleum in its environmental friendliness. The price of a parquet board cannot be called low, however, you can install it yourself, while it is unlikely that you can cope with the laying of natural parquet on your own.
Substrate preparation for parquet flooring
Parquet flooring can be laid on various grounds- concrete floor, plank or plywood floor, and even on an old, but durable floor, lined with ceramic tiles. The main thing is that the base is even, without protrusions and large recesses, so the surface must be carefully prepared.
The preparatory measures before laying the parquet board include several points, without which it is impossible to obtain a high-quality floor covering.
- The first step is a thorough revision of the foundation. If cracks, depressions or protrusions are found, they must be eliminated. Cracks widen and are sealed with concrete or other composite repair mortar(special putty). Separate recesses are also leveled with concrete, and big enough protrusions are broken. Small flaws can be smoothed out by laying a special substrate on the floors.
- In addition, the surface of the base is checked for evenness using a building level. It is permissible that the irregularities are 2 ÷ 2.5 mm per one running meter, but no more than that.
- If the quality of the base does not fit into permissible errors, then you will have to arrange the alignment. Depending on the type of floor, you can use a screed for this (for example,), or you can bring the floor into a horizontal plane with lags and then attach plywood or boards to them.
- If only minor flaws in the floor are found, which still need to be leveled, this can also be done by fixing plywood sheets to the concrete base, laying them according to the principle “ brickwork", that is, in a run. Sheets can be screwed or glued to concrete.
- Before laying parquet boards or plywood directly on concrete, the base must be well primed to strengthen the surface and prevent dust.
- If the board will be laid directly on the concrete surface, then a substrate is laid under it.
Foamed polyethylene, thin sheets of extruded polystyrene, cork material in slabs and rolls are used as this layer.
A cork sheet or slab substrate is most often glued to the base, as it not only smooths out small irregularities, but also acts as a heater.
Both rolled and slab materials are stacked end-to-end.
It is not recommended to use an old carpet or carpet as a substrate, as well as linoleum, as this material can deform and pull parquet boards along with it. In addition, the old flooring absorbs various odors during its operation, which the new parquet board cannot hide.
- You need to prepare not only materials, but also tools for performing work. The list of items required for installation includes:
- an electric jigsaw, a circular saw or a hacksaw with a fine tooth pitch;
- rubber mallet - for tamping rows;
- screwdriver;
- rule and building level;
- square and tape measure;
- regular and notched trowels;
- a special bracket for pulling boards. It can be purchased at ready-made or make it yourself from a steel strip 4 ÷ 5 mm thick.
- tamping bar. It can also be "store-bought" or homemade;
- expansion wedges.
Having prepared everything you need, you need to once again conduct a conscientious cleaning. In particular, the floor surface before laying any material must be carefully. Any small pebble that accidentally remains under the coating can do great harm overall quality the resulting sex.
Features of laying parquet boards
Before moving on to the step-by-step instructions for installing parquet flooring, it’s worth talking a little about some of the nuances of its installation, which you also need to have information about.
- The first thing to remember is that the parquet board purchased and brought into the house must be aged in the room where it will subsequently be laid. This is especially important to consider if the purchase was made in the cold season, and the temperature difference between the room and the street is quite large. In the room where the coating will be laid, the air temperature should be at least 18 degrees, and the humidity should be 30 ÷ 60%. For “tracking down”, it is better to free the board from the factory polymer packaging.
- Before proceeding to the preparation of the floors and the installation of the coating, it is necessary to draw up in advance an approximate layout of the board, taking into account its length and width. Thanks to this drawing, it will be easier to navigate when laying. It becomes possible to immediately determine the most successful size of the cut boards, which are usually laid along both edges of the row or only on one side of it.
- Segments of boards, reported in a row, must have a length of at least 500 mm.
- When drawing up a diagram, you also need to take into account the width of the boards. last row, as they usually have to be cut. If they have a width of less than 60 mm, then the coating should be moved a little, that is, cutting the boards not only of the last, but also of the first row.
- Parquet boards are laid "in a run". This means that the boards of the second row are offset by ½ or ⅓ of the length relative to the first row.
- Given the features and shape of the room, the location is chosen, that is, the direction of laying the boards, which determines the pattern.
- The easiest option, which is most often chosen for laying, is to mount the board along or across the room. At the same time, it is worth considering that if the board is laid across the room, it will visually make it wider, and the longitudinal installation will lengthen it. Such an "optical game" will help solve the problem of too long or narrow room.
- The second installation option is a diagonal masonry. It is more complex in execution and involves a lot of waste, which means that the cost of buying a board will be increased, as more her number. This installation method is great for flooring in square rooms and visually expands the space of the room. When making diagonal masonry, the end edges of the boards extreme to the wall are cut off clearly, at an angle of 45 or 30 degrees. Installation of the coating begins from the middle of the room. To do this, along the diagonal of the room - from corner to corner, a line is drawn or a cord is pulled, along which the first row of the coating is laid. Then, the masonry continues first in one and then in the other direction from the central row.
Technology of installation of a parquet board
Understanding technological ways flooring of this coating, you need to consider all aspects.
So, the parquet board can be laid in three ways - "floating" masonry, on glue or on logs. To decide which one is suitable for a particular case, you need to find out what they are, deal with their advantages and disadvantages.
"Floating" parquet flooring
Such laying of a parquet board is carried out without fixing the coating to the base. Well, its solidity is achieved only through locking joints located along the edges of the boards.
Such installation includes several stages, which will be discussed in detail in the instruction table below. Now we can only dwell on the positive and negative aspects of this method.
TO "pros" This technology can include:
- Simplicity and speed of laying.
- Possibility to correct errors made during installation.
- Possibility to replace individual floor boards in case of damage.
- Ease of dismantling the board and the possibility of recycling. For example, the coating is tired or has lost its relevance or aesthetics, so it was decided to replace it. The board can be easily removed and transferred to the dacha, where it can be put back into one of the rooms.
- The resistance of the floating coating to temperature fluctuations, as the design has the ability to expand the material.
- Savings on the purchase of glue.
- The floating cover can be operated immediately after the completion of the installation work.
"Cons" this method of laying can be considered:
- "Floating" coating is not suitable for installation in rooms with an area of more than 50 "squares".
- It is not recommended for laying in rooms where a high load will be placed on the floors.
- The coating is sensitive even to small irregularities, so it is necessary under it. However, this material will cost less than special glue.
Adhesive way to install parquet boards
The name of this installation method speaks for itself. That is, with this approach, the parquet board is laid on a special glue applied to the base.
And When purchasing glue, you need to make sure that it is suitable for a particular type of parquet board.
Installation according to this technique is carried out in stages. Wherein special meaning acquires a strict adherence to all technological recommendations tested by masters and proven their importance.
- The adhesive mounting method is used if the board is planned to be laid on concrete pavement which must be well primed before starting work. If the apartment is located on the ground floor of the house, where there is a high probability of dampness penetrating floors and walls, then it is best to impregnate the floors with a deep penetration waterproofing compound that will protect surfaces from moisture and mold. The primer must be applied not only on the floors, but also on the lower part of the walls, with a strip of 100 ÷ 120 mm. If the solution will be applied in several layers, then each of them must be well dried.
- The next step, along one of the walls, a parquet board is laid, between it and the wall, at a distance of about 400 ÷ 500 mm from each other, special plastic or wooden inserts are installed that will provide a compensation gap. They allow the flooring material to expand as the room temperature rises, keeping the flooring level.
- Next, adjusting the length last board in a row (how this is done will be shown in the table below), glue is applied to the floor surface with a spatula on an area 80 ÷ 100 mm wide more than outside line row. After application, the adhesive is spread over the surface with a notched trowel.
- Now it's time to lay the parquet board on the glue layer. It must immediately be precisely joined to each other using locking joints - this process is carried out in the same way when laying the board in any of the three ways.
- When the entire row of boards is laid, in some cases the coating can be additionally fixed to the floor using self-tapping screws, through pre-drilled holes in the grooves. Holes are drilled in increments of 300÷350 mm.
- Then on concrete base the adhesive mass is again applied and distributed over its surface.
- In the second row, the board is laid with a shift of half (or 1/3) relative to the already pasted board. First, the boards are joined along the length, and then connected to the elements of the first row, after which it is fixed with self-tapping screws to the base.
- If the two rows do not fit snugly against each other, that is, if there is a gap between them, a smooth bar is attached to the edge of the outer row, which is gently tapped with a rubber mallet so as not to break the lock connection on the parquet board. Melted tapping is carried out until the gap becomes almost invisible.
- In this way, the entire floor covering is glued.
- Do not allow glue to get on the front side of the parquet board. If this happens, then the drops are immediately removed - for this, a clean rag should always be at hand.
- When the surface of the floor of the room is completely covered with parquet, the coating must be left to dry for 2-3 days, without giving it any load. It is necessary to consider measures to exclude even an accidental passage into the room. The drying time of the glue, as a rule, the manufacturer indicates on the packaging.
- After the glue under the coating is completely dry, the seams between the boards must be treated with an acrylic transparent sealant, which will reduce the risk of moisture from getting under the boards from the outside.
- When the sealant has completely hardened, you can remove the inserts along the walls, proceed with the installation of skirting boards, as well as an interior threshold.
It must be said that the adhesive method of fastening is selected if the floor surface has small irregularities that can be corrected with a layer of glue. Therefore, when installing a parquet board using a similar technology, you need to carefully press it to the floor surface.
TO positive aspects adhesive mounting coatings include:
- The possibility of using this material on any size area.
- Higher resistance to increased loads.
- The method is suitable for mounting a parquet board on top of a screed, equipped above a warm water floor.
TO shortcomings adhesive laying include:
- The cost of purchasing glue.
- Possibility of operation of the premises only when the glue is completely dry.
- More complex installation coatings.
- The impossibility of correcting the mistakes made in the masonry.
- Difficulty replacing damaged boards.
Installation of parquet boards on logs
Laying a parquet board on can be done in two ways - fixing it directly on the logs or on the wall on them plywood.
If the first installation option is chosen, then it must be taken into account that the thickness of the parquet board must be at least 22 mm. Only in this case, it is guaranteed not to bend under external load. In addition, lags must have large enough width (about 80 ÷ 90 mm) and fit on the base with a small step - usually 400 mm. The parquet board, which is fixed directly to the logs, is laid perpendicular to them. Board joints in one row are made in the middle of the lag width.
The second option involves fixing the lag to the base in increments of 500 ÷ 600 mm, since plywood sheets with a thickness of at least 20 mm are laid on them before laying the board.
Both one and the other installation option is convenient if the floors need to be insulated or leveled by setting the lags in a horizontal plane according to the level.
Logs, selected under the flooring of the parquet board, must be well and properly dried. There should be no deformation of the timber or board, otherwise the finished floor may begin to creak over time.
Depending on how much you plan to raise the clean floor above the base, the logs can be fixed directly to the base, or raised above it and leveled with special racks or studs.
If the floors along the logs are arranged in a private house or in an apartment located on the ground floor of a high-rise building, then a concrete base is a must waterproof. This can be done using special coating solutions, impregnations, a dense plastic film or roofing material.
Logs are fixed on top of the waterproofing, between which insulation material is laid, which is covered with a dust-proof film. It is especially important to take this into account if mineral wool is used as a heater.
Then, along the logs with the help of self-tapping screws, sheets of plywood are fixed, between which a compensation gap of 2.5 ÷ 3 mm should be provided. Mounting screws are screwed into the logs through the plywood coating in increments of 150 ÷ 180 mm. The edge of each plywood sheet should be in the middle of the log.
Installation of a parquet board using "floating" technology - step by step instructions
Due to the fact that the most popular way of laying a parquet board is its "floating" version, it will be considered in the table below - from the beginning of the work to its final.
| Illustration | Brief description of the operation to be performed |
|---|---|
 | So, the first step is laid on a leveled and primed base waterproofing material. In the case under consideration, a polyethylene film was chosen for this purpose. The illustration clearly shows that the waterproofing is laid not only on the horizontal surface of the floor, but also on the walls - it is raised by about 100 mm. It is not necessary to fix the waterproofing on the walls, however, if a thin material is chosen that will fall to the floor and interfere with work, then it can be temporarily fixed to the wall with masking tape. But, nevertheless, it would be better to choose a dense film - this will reduce the time for work that will be required for gluing it. |
 | The next step, a substrate is laid on the waterproofing material. In this case, dense foamed polyethylene is chosen, but it may well be replaced with cork roll or plate material. First, only one sheet of a roll-type substrate is laid along the wall, from which the installation of the parquet board will begin, since if the room is completely covered, it will interfere with work, shifting to one side or the other. Usually, the flooring is laid from the left corner of the room, no matter how its installation is planned - along or across the room. |
 | After that, a pre-compiled scheme for laying the material is taken and prepared spacer wedges, which must be temporarily installed between the wall and the parquet board. The thickness of the spacer wedges should be 10÷15 mm. |
 | The next step is to lay the first parquet board. It is temporarily pressed against the walls to determine the evenness of its position. |
 | Now it's time to create an expansion gap between the wall and the flooring material. It is created using spacer wedges installed on all sides of the board, bordering the walls. The board is pressed tightly against these wedges. The step between the wedges along the long side of the board should be about 500 mm. |
 | Next, laying the second board of the first row. It is fastened to the first by means of a docking lock. |
 | Docking locks at different manufacturers may vary slightly, but usually when connected, they seem to snap together. |
 | It is important that the second and subsequent boards are set exactly to the width of the previous board. If one of them is shifted to the outside, the next row will not be able to dock with the previous one. This illustration clearly shows how the connection of two boards along the length of the row should look. |
 | Having laid out the first row almost completely, except for the last board, which, as a rule, has to be cut, using a tape measure or a metal ruler, measure the distance from the wall to the end of the laid board. At the same time, I take into account the fact that it is necessary to leave a compensation gap of 10 ÷ 15 mm, which was mentioned above. Therefore, in order to avoid accidental errors during measurement, it is best to attach a spacer wedge to the wall and measure the distance already from it. |
 | The next step, a whole board is applied to the end of the first row, then it is turned face down and the length of the desired segment is laid on its wrong side. Further, according to the mark building corner a line perpendicular to the edges is drawn along which, using circular saw or an electric jigsaw is cut. |
 | The prepared segment is joined to the rest of the boards of the first row, while expansion wedges are also installed along the wall. |
 | The second part of the board, from which a piece was cut to complete the first row, very often begins the second row (if the length of this segment allows). It connects to the first row of the castle, located along the long side of the board. |
 | Next, the second board of the second row is laid. The complexity of its installation lies in the fact that it must be fastened with locks to the previous and adjacent board. Some joints are designed to join the boards first along the length of the row, and then fasten the second row to the first. Others, as shown in the illustration, are first joined to the board of the first row, and then connected to the previous board. In the same way, the entire floor covering is laid. However, probably in any room there are places that complicate the work. |
 | So that the board lies neatly around front door, and the threshold was in its opening, at the bottom of the door frame it was washed down to the wall, as shown in the photo. However, the board does not yet fit into place, as it can be damaged by further actions. |
 | The next step is to mark the location of the threshold, which will press the edges of the boards in the doorway. To do this, it is necessary to lay a sub-threshold along the width of the opening, on which the threshold will then be fixed. Along it, from the side of the parquet to be laid, it is necessary to draw a sharp knife in order to cut off a strip of the substrate material, which will interfere with the tight fit of the footboard to the base. |
 | Further, through the mounting holes provided in the footboard, marks are made with a marker or pencil. Then the footrest is removed, and holes are drilled along the markings. |
 | Plastic dowel plugs are inserted into the holes. Then, a footrest is installed in place, which is fixed with self-tapping screws screwed through the holes into the dowel-plugs located in the base. |
 | Next, you can prepare a place for mounting the board, which will go into the groove cut in the door frame. Since the board, due to its installation in the gap, cannot be lifted and fastened with a lock, as happened during the installation of the remaining boards, part of the lock is removed from the already laid board with a chisel. This process will have to be done not only along the length of the board, but also along its width. |
 | Then, carpentry or other glue is applied to the cut sections of the boards with a strip, designed to fasten wooden parts. |
 | Now the board is slipped into the gap under door frame and advances to the already laid coating. The edges of the board are pressed tightly against the cut lock lines with glue applied to them. |
 | If necessary, the board to be glued can be knocked out through the beam provided for this, using a hammer, since there should not be a gap in the connection of the board with the main coating. Similar operations will need to be performed on the other side of the doorway. |
 | The next step is to lay the rest of the boards, leaving one edge into the doorway. They are laid with an edge on a footrest fixed with self-tapping screws. After that, the edges of the boards are pressed from above with a threshold, which is screwed together with the boards to the footboard. Thus, the edges of the boards will be fixed to the base, and also sandwiched between the two metal strips of the threshold. |
 | If you plan to continue laying the parquet board and next room, then instead of a metal nut, you can install a plastic docking profile. To do this, its lower part is fixed to the base, and after laying the boards, the gap between them is covered with a profile that joins with the bottom one. At the same time, it must be remembered that a compensation gap of 4 ÷ 5 mm must be provided between the lower profile element and the boards. |
 | Another rather difficult area for parquet flooring is heating pipes that go into the interfloor ceiling. Of course, you can finish the board by reaching the pipes, and also put a segment along the wall behind them. floor material, but such styling will look extremely sloppy. In addition, dust will collect in the remaining gap, as well as between the pipes. Solving this problem is quite simple by laying the board in front of the pipes and noting their location along its width. |
 | Then the board is moved and laid next to the pipes, and with the help of a building square, a line for the location of the risers is outlined on it, which will cross the previously marked lines. |
 | Thus, points will be found at which holes will need to be drilled. |
 | A drill bit is required to drill holes. desired diameter. For this version of the pipes shown in the picture, a 30 mm diameter bit was used. |
 | The next step is to cut along a line across the board. The cut must go through the middle round holes. Now you can assemble the resulting structure into a single coating. To do this, the cut off part of the board is wound behind the pipes and installed so that the semicircles are located near the back of the pipes. |
 | Then, waterproof wood glue is applied to the end of the board, after which, the rest of the board moves to the front of the pipes and joins with the segment, that is, it is pressed against the end on which the glue is applied. After that, the gaps remaining between the pipes and the board are closed with special decorative frames that look like donuts. Connectors are provided in these masking parts, allowing them to be divided in two and installed on different sides of the pipe, and then assembled into a single structure. These elements will not only close the gaps from dust entering them, but also give the passage of pipes through the floor covering a neat appearance. |
 | Many craftsmen, who are installing parquet boards for the first time, have problems when laying its last row. The difficulty is that you need to manage to dock the board or its trimmed part with the rest of the coating. |
 | In case of loose pressing of the boards of the last to the previous row, it must be tightened with special device called a bracket. It is inserted into the gap between the board and the wall, and then tapped on its second, bent up edge. Knocking is carried out until the board is firmly pressed against the rest of the coating and snaps into place. |
 | After pulling up the last row of flooring, you can remove the spacer wedges and move on to installing and fixing the skirting brackets to the wall. |
 | These details may be different shape, and they are selected depending on what kind of plinth it is planned to arrange the floor covering. The brackets are fixed to the wall with a step of 400÷500 mm. |
 | The plinth can have a flat or curly shape. Usually with it inside a cable channel is provided for communication. Therefore, before installing the plinth into the brackets, cables are laid into it. |
 | Now it remains to install the plinth in place. It can simply snap onto the brackets or be screwed to them. If the latter option is selected, then a blank strip is temporarily removed from the middle part of the element, which will open the channel through which the skirting boards will be fixed to the brackets. Then, a strip returns to its place, which will disguise the caps of the mounting screws. Important - the plinth may have a different design, fastened in a different way. But its fixation should never be carried out to the flooring - only to the wall! |
 | The last step using a sharp knife, the waterproofing material protruding above the plinth is carefully cut off. The knife must be very sharp so that the film can be cut easily, as pressing on the wall can damage its finish. |
 | The result of the work done will be a neat, warm and very practical floor covering that will last, with proper care, for many years. |
Now, after careful study submitted above the material, you can proceed to the practical implementation of the recommendations given in it. As you can see from the step-by-step instructions, it is quite possible to make a “floating” laying of a parquet board on your own, having leveled and properly prepared the base for its installation.
And in the end, traditionally - a small video that demonstrates the process of laying a parquet board on a plywood base.
Video: Adhesive method of laying a parquet board on a plywood base
Among the variety of modern floor coverings, parquet has always favorably stood out for its excellent characteristics. It is elegant and solid, practical and comfortable. Such a floor will decorate any home. It is warm, pleasant to the touch, durable and durable. To lay such a floor covering, it is not at all necessary to order an expensive team of workers - it is quite possible to make parquet with your own hands.
Before carrying out such work, it is necessary to determine the type of parquet, the variant of its installation. The material consumption and the appearance of the room will depend on this. It is necessary to take into account the level of natural light, the direction of laying the panels, their configuration.
After that, the preparation of the base is carried out, it must be strong and as even as possible. After completion of the work, the floor needs to be cycled, i.e., it must be polished so that it becomes perfectly even and smooth. The final stage is varnishing. Before this, the parquet will need to be toned to give it the desired color. Tinting is not a mandatory step. If you want to give the parquet floor originality, then you can apply tinting.
Which parquet to choose for laying?
Before buying parquet, you need to decide what type of board is suitable. Manufacturers today offer variety of options, products can be used for different conditions. For example, only for large or small rooms. All types of parquet boards are usually divided into the following groups:
Types of laying parquet "herringbone".
- Parquet single-strip board. It is made using a special technology, the integrity of the wooden plate is preserved during processing. The coating is most suitable for flooring in large rooms. Single-strip parquet perfectly conveys the beauty of natural wood, its natural structure.
- The parquet two-strip board in the upper part consists of 2 dies. It does possible use coverings not only in large, but also in small rooms.
- The parquet three-strip board is original and unique. 3 dies are placed on one board, the surface is composite. It is this type of coating that is confused with the so-called piece parquet.
- Not so long ago, beveled parquet was used only for the most expensive and elite interiors. The parquet is beautiful, it looks luxurious, solid and expensive. Today it is used for large halls, for bedrooms and living rooms with an exquisite interior.
- The parquet board, which has a special coating and impregnation, is used for rooms with a high level of traffic, ballrooms and sports halls. In addition, there is a special waterproof variety, which is recommended for use in kitchens, dining rooms, hallways, halls.
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The process of laying parquet with your own hands
Anyone can handle parquet flooring.
Flooring methods:
- floating laying;
- laying with the use of special parquet glue.
There is another option for laying when the planks are additionally fastened with nails. This method is rarely used, there is no expediency in it. Floating laying consists in the fact that the planks are joined together by a tenon-groove connection. This is the easiest way, anyone can do it.
The floating method is called because the parquet is not connected to the base, a single coating is above it. This allows you to properly control temperature and humidity changes. The floor does not warp, cracks and cracks do not appear on the surface, there is no creaking. During laying, it is necessary to retreat about 1 cm from the walls - this will be the temperature gap.
Laying should begin on a layer of vapor barrier membrane, which is laid on a leveled base. Then you should lay a layer of sound insulation, for which cork is excellent. Its porous structure and unique properties make it possible to give the flooring the necessary characteristics. The floating surface is of high quality and can be easily repaired if necessary, i.e. replace damaged slats.
Adhesive laying of parquet is quite complex, requiring attention and labor. To complete the work you will need:
- parquet planks selected type;
- special parquet glue;
- notched metal spatula;
- electric drill with a nozzle construction mixer for mixing mixtures.
Before starting work, the base must be leveled, then covered with a layer of soil to ensure excellent adhesion of the adhesive and the base. The primer is selected depending on whether the floor is concrete or wood. Work should only start when room temperature, the humidity level should be normal. Glue is applied to the base after the primer has dried. small areas, as the mixture will become unusable after 20 minutes.
Planks are fastened not only with glue, but also with a lock connection. This installation method is the most durable. You should move from the far corner to the front door. After the parquet is laid, it is necessary to grind the floor surface, for which special grinders with various nozzles.
The first scraping is done using coarse sandpaper, then it is necessary to process hard-to-reach places and corners with an angle grinder. The last scraping is done using fine sandpaper. It allows you to give the floor smoothness.
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Plans for laying parquet boards
You can make parquet with your own hands according to the most various schemes. Today, the most popular are the following styling schemes:
- deck board (the most common laying method);
- herringbone;
- diamonds;
- squares;
- Sheremetyevo star;
- mosaic, or wickerwork.
Deck laying is the simplest.
Parquet slabs are laid with a shift of the board in each row, it is best to start work from the wall opposite the door.
The scheme is great for any premises, including small ones. There are many varieties of the deck scheme, you can independently lay the following options:
- chaotic laying scatter;
- board shift by 1/3;
- board shift by ½;
- chaotic diagonal scheme;
- diagonal shift by 1/3;
- diagonal shift by ½.
Laying piece parquet in a herringbone pattern: a - beacon tree, b - groove and tongue connection, 1 - grooves, 2 - combs, 3 - parquet planks.
The herringbone pattern is used for a parquet board, which has a spike on the corner sides, the joints are directed in one direction. The stacking angle of the dies can be 45 degrees or 90.
Varieties of the herringbone pattern:
- regular diagonal at 90 degrees;
- diagonal at 90 degrees in 2 strips;
- diagonal at 90 degrees in 1 bar;
- straight laying at 45 degrees;
- direct scheme in 2 and in 1 bar.
It is best to lay such a scheme on glue, the surface should be perfectly aligned. One of the most popular schemes for making parquet with your own hands is laying with squares and braiding. You can use this method for any room. You can combine straight and diagonal patterns, use strips of different sizes, shapes and colors.
The article discusses the advantages and disadvantages of artistic parquet, its main types and breeds from which the slabs are made. How to lay the floor covering and create decorative patterns.
Advantages and disadvantages of artistic parquet
The coating has several advantages over conventional parquet:
- The user is given the opportunity to create an original floor that forms an individual style in the room.
- Artistic parquet does not need additional decorative elements. It can be compared to a real work of art.
- The floor has a long service life due to the use of hardwoods. For a long time, it does not lose its attractiveness.
- The coating has a high environmental Safety thanks to the use of natural wood.
- The porous structure of wooden samples retains heat well in the room and has heat-insulating properties.
- The art parquet is not exacting in leaving.
- Multiple grinding of elements is allowed.
The main types of artistic parquet
Decorative styling is a complex and painstaking work that is valued very dearly. Parquet is considered artistic if the following requirements are met:
- The floor covering consists of dice of different types of wood, different in color, size and shape. When creating a picture, sometimes up to 60 types of wood are used.
- The flooring has a pattern that echoes the general atmosphere in the room.
- Piece. With its help create geometric patterns. All elements are made the same size up to 50 cm long, 4-7.5 cm wide, 1.5-2.2 cm thick. They are connected with tongue and groove locks. Samples are made with rustic, tangential, radial and cross-cut logs, so they differ in the pattern of the fiber. Most often, for decoration, they buy dies obtained by a transverse cut. Also on sale is a massive parquet board, which is mass-produced, so it is relatively inexpensive.
- Palace. Differs in the most complex drawings, which are assembled from elements different sizes and shapes like mosaics. Available in sections 60x60x4 cm, 40x40x4 cm and 40x40 22 cm. Each board consists of two layers. The lower (base) is made of pine. The top layer is formed by pieces of wood that create a pattern. The strips of the section are connected to each other with thorn-groove locks.
The choice of the type of artistic parquet
Dies are made from different types of trees, each of which has its own characteristics. In order for the artistic parquet in the interior of the room to look harmonious, consider the characteristics of the material from which the boards are made:
- Oak parquet . Considered a flooring classic. Dies from it - solid, weakly absorb moisture. On the surface there is beautiful drawing different color shades, but over time the wood darkens. Samples with a normal drying time are considered to be of better quality; the accelerated version is not suitable. Oak parquet is a versatile flooring that can be installed in any room.
- Beech. It has the same hardness as oak, but the color is softer, with a yellowish or reddish tint. It requires compliance with special operating conditions, otherwise the slats will bend.
- Maple. The hardness is not inferior to oak. It has White color which turns yellow after a while. Experienced craftsmen recommend buying materials only with a normal drying time, because. after the shortened procedure, the slats are deformed.
- Pine. It is soft, the boards are quickly damaged by sharp female heels.
- Cherry. It has Brown color with a hint of pink, darkens with time. The material is not hard, but is popular due to its easy processing. It is often laid in the nursery.
Artistic design of parquet floors
Decorative flooring can be created in different style solutions that are selected according to the interior of the room:
- Classic style. Such parquet is suitable for rooms of any type. It is distinguished by the presence of patterns of strict symmetry created by straight lines. Images are simple, often borrowed from the Greek or Roman heritage (for example, pictures of eagles or dolphins). The style is characterized by the use of material from trees with a red, black and pink tint, such as ash or maple. The color of the floor is chosen depending on the wall cladding.
- Art style. The coating is liked by people who prefer calm shades.
- Modern style. You can immediately identify by smooth curved lines, asymmetric compositions on floral themes and female figures in spacious clothes. Pieces of wood of a lilac or violet hue, which are characteristic of amarat wood dies.
- Drawings with traditional national attributes. Created from contrast colors- black, white, blue-violet shades.
In small rooms, make patterns in the form of clear shapes and lines, the background should be light. Dark-colored parquet can only be installed in spacious rooms. Ornaments in the national style are created in contrast, from several shades.
Artistic parquet laying technology
When installing artistic parquet, it is necessary to take into account many factors that affect the appearance of the coating and the service life.
Checking the quality of manufacturing dies
For artistic parquet High Quality coverage must be carefully selected. In this case, it is recommended to follow our advice:
- Control the width, length and thickness of the elements, the indicators should be the same on all samples. Make sure the front of each plank is flat and the corners are straight. If these conditions are not met, defects will have to be eliminated by deep grinding, possibly up to 1 mm deep. Such a serious refinement at the stage of installation of the flooring reduces the thickness of the plate and the life of the floor, because allowable thickness material removal should not exceed 0.2 mm at a time.
- On the front side of the blanks there should be no knots, chips, cracks.
- If possible, buy planks with maximum thickness the top layer, which increases the number of polishing parquet during repairs.
- The humidity of the boards should be 9-11%.
- Check the quality of the grooves and spikes. To do this, fold the boards into a square. If the figure has 90-degree angles, and there are no gaps between the elements, the locks are made with high quality.
- Dies with large dimensions have little elasticity, and on an uneven surface they can bulge and warp. Long samples on the back side must necessarily have grooves for about half the thickness of the material, which make the product more flexible.
- The presence of grinding and polishing significantly saves time for finishing, but varnishing is not always beneficial. Installation work are accompanied by leveling and fitting the surface in one plane, and the varnish layer will be broken.
- Sort the samples by cutting method. The most durable planks are obtained by sawing the log along. They are easy to identify by the straight lines on the front side and the solid color of the bar.
- Drying of pieces of wood can be carried out using microwave, hot air, vacuum. The last method is the most preferred. The parquet is placed in a vacuum chamber with a temperature of 52 to 70 degrees. With such a sparing option, internal stresses do not appear inside the material, therefore, when changing parameters environment the dimensions of the dies will vary slightly.
Installation instructions for artistic parquet
Installation work is carried out after fine finish walls and ceilings and final fastening of cables and pipelines. During the procedure, the temperature in the room should be maintained - + 18-23 degrees. Air humidity should be within 35-60%, floor humidity - no more than 5%, residual humidity of walls - no more than 6%.
Laying is carried out in a certain sequence:
- Foundation waterproofing;
- Leveling with cement screed;
- Surface priming;
- Attaching plywood to cement screed or lagam;
- Laying artistic parquet in accordance with the chosen style;
- Puttying flooring;
- Priming the surface for varnish;
- Lacquering the floor.
Creation of decorative drawings of artistic parquet
To obtain a coating with a complex color pattern, planks from different types of wood are used. Simple images are created from plain strips, placing them under different angles to each other.
Single-skin flooring is often made from oak, which has a pronounced structure, which is good from an aesthetic point of view. Such flooring is more durable than the floor of multi-species planks. Images are laid out in the form of ornaments, cubes, braids, etc.
The most common patterns of single-breed parquet are three images:
- Herringbone - used in classic design.
- Deck - planks are arranged longitudinally, suitable for all types of interior.
- Vietnamese - interlacing of transverse and longitudinal planks.
When installing the modules, a layer of glue is applied to the plywood, on which the sections are placed. After checking the location, they are fixed with special nails. Some boards are made with embedded dowels. During installation, they are fixed with nails, which are hammered into the milling from the side of the free ends. Then the grooves are closed with dowels. There are 2 strips for each section.
To create a "socket", dies made from several types of wood are used. Elements have different color, so they can be used to create complex drawings, usually in the form of an ornament. The coating looks good in spacious rooms. Considered the most difficult wooden decking. The "socket" usually has a round shape, its dimensions are limited by the size of the room. It is not recommended to create too small, such coatings look unpresentable.
Installation of the "socket" is carried out as follows:
- For the procedure, you will need a simple circular device. To make a tool, you need a rail, at one end of which a nail is driven in, at the other a pencil is fixed. With it, a circle is applied to the floor.
- The inner space of the circle is filled with planks in such a way that the edges of the elements go slightly beyond the circle.
- Draw another circle on top.
- Mark the position of the planks inside the circle, dismantle them.
- Cut the end boards according to the mark.
- Apply a layer of adhesive to the base and level it with a notched trowel. Also grease the ends of the dies with the composition.
- Place the boards inside the circle according to the marking and press down with a load while the glue hardens. In the first hours, rearrange the load on the parquet.
Installation of borders is carried out in the following sequence:
- On the base, at the location of the curbs, draw a line.
- Place the planks on the floor with a slight overhand mark.
- After the glue dries, trim the edges of the boards.
- In places of cut, clean the surface from dust and dirt.
- Glue the border end-to-end to the main parquet.
- Fasten the decorative element in addition to the base with nails, hammering them from the free side.
- Lay a frieze between the decor and the wall, leaving a gap of 10 mm along the wall.
- Marquetry. The main method of installation of colored parquets. The pattern is created from individual planks to the full depth of the flooring. The work resembles the assembly of a large mosaic.
- intarsia. Implemented into the finished floor decorative items from other types of wood.
- Inlay. When installed together with wooden elements use copper, aluminum and other non-wood parts.
There is another way of laying with the additional use of nails, but it seems unreasonable to us, if the first two ways can perfectly hold the parquet together.
floating way
Floating parquet laying is the most simple option. The planks of the parquet are joined together according to the “thorn in the groove” principle. Since the floating method does not fix the parquet to the base, it will expand and contract depending on the humidity and temperature in the room. Therefore, when laying, it is necessary to indent 1 cm from the walls. If the indent is not made, the parquet will soon begin to creak, and this is very unpleasant.
It is necessary to lay the parquet in a floating way on a pre-laid layer of vapor barrier, and then sound insulation. Cork insulation is well suited as a soundproofing material, which also has good thermal insulation characteristics due to its porous structure.
If the parquet is laid floating, it can be repaired.
Adhesive laying method
Laying parquet on glue requires more time and labor (and, of course, buying glue, having a notched trowel and a drill with a mixing nozzle). Also, in the case of fixing parquet with glue, the base (usually plywood) must first be primed for good adhesion to the glue. There are primer types for wood and concrete.
The disadvantage of laying piece parquet on glue is the impossibility of repair.
How to install strip parquet
The first thing you need to know is to install parquet at room temperature and normal humidity.
Laying strip parquet is a process consisting of the following steps:
- Preparation of the base for laying parquet. Often, a rough floor is made first (we have a whole series of articles devoted to various types of rough floors). If a subfloor is not required, you can simply put roll and slab sound insulation (it can simultaneously have both thermal and waterproofing characteristics; an example is cork backing, DSP boards, sometimes enough moisture resistant plywood: depends on what conditions your room has and what is under it). If, for example, this is the floor on the second floor, and there is a bathroom under it, then it makes sense to take care of waterproofing.
- Distance from walls 1 cm. when laying any type of parquet, the distance from the walls is obligatory (even when laying on glue). When laying in a floating way, the indentation is needed for the natural expansion of the wood. When laying on glue, the indentation is needed to create additional sound insulation, due to the lack of adjoining the floor to the walls. During laying, the indentation from the walls must be provided with plastic liners 1 cm thick.
- Laying parquet according to technology. We will talk about them a little lower. If you are laying parquet using the deck laying technology, then in each next row the board must be offset by at least 30 cm, and preferably half.
- Grinding (aka sanding) parquet (if it does not have a finished front surface). For grinding, you need to use a special grinder. It can be rented.
- Parquet tinting as needed. Toning is needed to emphasize the contrast of the wood structure: for example, the fibers will be better visible.
- Parquet varnishing. It is required, first of all, to protect the parquet, and only then to create a glossy effect.
- Plinth installation.
Tap the parquet boards together either with a rubber-tipped hammer or through wooden plank(the bar must be pressed down to the floor so that it does not fly out from the impact and scratch the parquet flooring). When laying the last row, it must be tamped to the already laid row using a special tamping strip (bracket).
Block parquet laying technologies
Parquet planks can be installed according to different technologies, each of which has its own look:
- Deck laying (normal);
- "Herringbone";
- squares;
- Diamonds;
- Braids (mosaic);
- Sheremetyevo star.
Deck
Deck laying is the usual longitudinal laying of parquet planks with the next row offset by about half to increase rigidity. Laying is better to start from the wall opposite the door, moving towards the exit.
If the finished flooring is to be a seamless gloss, then lay the planks lengthwise to the light.
Before laying the first row, lay the planks to their full length, taking into account the distance from the walls of 1 cm, if necessary, mark the cutting line from the end plank, and lay. Depending on the type of connection, piece parquet can simply be pushed into the grooves of adjacent planks, or it can be smoothly turned on at a slight slope, gradually lowering.
To make sure that the joint is even before laying the next row, after each connection of two planks, you need to connect a piece of plank of the next row at their junction, shake it a little to align the horizontal of the connection. And repeat this with each joint. The second row must first be fixed together, then check the joints with a piece of plank, then connect with the first row.
From the planks located near the walls, you need to saw off a groove or spike (depending on which side the wall is from the plank), so that the indentation from the walls is uniform. This must be taken into account even when measuring for cutting. Sawing, by the way, is done with a jigsaw.
Also deck laying can be done diagonally. It can be positioned at an angle of 45 degrees, or diagonally from one corner of the room to another. In any case, you need to draw a laying line, which will start from one corner of the room.
The first row of parquet is laid along the line, starting with sawing off the corner at the first plank. When the first row is laid, we align the joints with a piece of plank. Then we lay the subsequent rows with a distance between the joints of the rows of about 50 cm (if the boards are long) or half a plank (if they are short).
Herringbone
For herringbone laying, the planks should have a tenon on 2 corner sides, and a groove on the other 2. Laying is carried out in such a way that the connections are directed in one direction.
Planks can be laid at an angle of 45 degrees to all walls, or at a right angle of 90 degrees to the walls (steps).
Laying technology begins with a beacon "Christmas tree" - the first two laid rows. They ask straight line laying the remaining rows, so the lighthouse "herringbone" must be perfectly aligned. To do this, you need to either draw or stretch a line between the carnations, relative to which the “herringbone” will be equal.
"Herringbone" is better to lay on the glue. By the way, if laid on glue, parquet planks do not have to have tongue and groove locks - you can do without them, it is still attached to the glue.
Squares and braided (mosaic)
The easiest way is to lay the parquet with a braid in the form of squares (if, of course, the dimensions of the planks allow them to be adjusted to such a shape) and rectangular options. The laying principle is very simple: join the first square of the planks, lay them out; join the second square of the planks and lay out perpendicular to the first. And so alternate perpendicular squares. Every second row shifts the squares by one to get a checkerboard effect.
This standard technology, but you can also lay out the mosaic, alternating, for example, the circle of the planks in one direction, and inside the circle in the perpendicular direction, and so move towards the center. You can simply lay out stripes, you can use crosses, you can use large cubes ... There are a lot of options.
Laying planks with a braid or squares begins with a beacon row, which is perfectly aligned.
Also, wicker mosaic squares and rectangles can be placed at an angle of 45 degrees to the walls (diamonds). But for this, as well as for the "Christmas tree", you will have to cut a lot of parquet boards, so buy material with a margin.
For laying piece parquet using the Sheremetyevskaya Star technology, it must be made of two types of shapes: simple rectangular and inclined diamond-shaped. The result of the mosaic, made using this technology, pleasantly pleases the eye with possible combinations. geometric shapes and play of textures and colors.
In order not to get confused, the Sheremetyevsky Star must be laid according to the scheme.
Do-it-yourself parquet sanding
After laying the parquet, it must be sanded. >Earlier, grinding was called scraping, because a scraper was used for it. But the cycle can deform the parquet too much. Therefore, special parquet sanders are used. They work like sandpaper - they rub the surface for a single level, so that all the joints of the planks are on the same horizon. There are different types of grinders with different grinding power attachments.
But the grinder is a rather bulky equipment, and you can’t grind the corners with it. For this, a sanding boot is used - a manual grinder for processing corners and other hard-to-reach places for a large grinder (for example, a place under a heating radiator).
It is better to sand parquet with your own hands 2 times:
- First, grinding takes place with a hard nozzle to remove all irregularities.
- Then the nozzle is changed to a less hard one and sands the parquet to a pleasant smoothness.
If, after laying the parquet, other construction or repair work indoors, then you need to wait for them to finish and only after that proceed with grinding and subsequent varnishing.
Wooden parquet is ideal material for unusual design solutions, its structure and common installation methods significantly increase the variability of the visual design of the floor. Despite the fact that laying parquet is a rather time-consuming job, there is no need to call a specialist, because taking into account all the rules and recommendations, you can easily cope with it alone. Next, we will step by step consider the method of laying parquet, and also talk about caring for parquet flooring.
So, before proceeding with the description of the installation work, it should be noted that there are several varieties of parquet flooring. In this article we are talking about parquet board - the most popular and effective variety parquet flooring.
Substrate preparation for coating
The preparation process should begin even before the purchase of the coating material. Let's look at the entire preparation process in the form of a step-by-step instruction:
So, when preparing for laying the coating, the following factors should be taken into account: the area to be covered, the uniformity of the surface, the temperature and humidity of the surface and leveling materials, the tools needed for the job.
After preparation, you should get to work. Consider how to lay parquet.
Ways of laying a parquet board
There are four main ways of laying a parquet board:
- Laying "floating" method.
- Fastening with nails or screws.
- Combining the two previous methods - laying on glue with fixing with nails and self-tapping screws.
Let's take a closer look at each styling option.
"floating" method of laying parquet
This method uses tongue-and-groove joints. Parquet boards are connected to each other, but do not have attachment to the surface. This type of connection is the easiest for beginners, since there is no possibility of making a fatal error. With such a connection, it is possible to dismantle the boards and re-lay them, which makes it possible to replace damaged elements. Varnish surface treatment can avoid highlighting any elements from the overall surface, and create the perception of a single coating.
Advantages of the method:
- Simple and clear installation.
- There is no need for connecting means.
- Possibility to replace unusable boards.
- Decent appearance.
Flaws:
- Only suitable for small to medium space.
- Not the highest reliability.
- Weak foundation.
In general, the "floating" method is quite suitable for medium-sized city apartments, and anyone can install it.
In cases where a strong and durable floor base is needed, the method of laying parquet boards on glue is used. As in the previous method, the boards are connected using the tenon-groove method, then their base is liberally lubricated with special glue and connected to the floor surface. It should be noted that this installation cannot be repaired or replaced, since all boards are firmly connected to the floor. This is a more time-consuming and costly method compared to the "floating" method. But on the other hand, it has increased durability and reliability.
Advantages:
- Installation reliability.
- Durability.
- Suitable for laying parquet on a large area.
Flaws:
- The laboriousness of work.
- Additional costs for glue.
Laying parquet on glue is quite suitable for large rooms and will provide high strength and durability of the floor covering. But it is not recommended to make mistakes when laying - such a connection cannot be repaired.
Laying on parquet glue with nails and self-tapping screws
The most reliable and popular way at the moment. It does not allow deformation of the coating, as parquet boards are strengthened from all sides. This method guarantees the longest service life of the coating, but it will definitely not be possible to repair it - it hurts too much to use fasteners. Therefore, it is extremely important to perform the installation of the boards as accurately as possible. This method is not recommended for inexperienced people - here you need fine hand masters.
All the advantages and disadvantages are similar to the previous installation method, only the price of this method is even higher.
Laying parquet board
In any situation, the first step is to draw on paper the drawing that you want to make on the parquet. On paper, you should take into account the size of the room and make accurate calculations. There should be even rows in the center of the room, cut off at the edges.
The type of laying work depends on the pattern you choose. Consider the sequence of work on the example of a "Christmas tree" pattern:
- First, the surface should be leveled with a screed to provide a smooth base for laying the parquet.
- We clean the surface from dust, dirt and excess things.
- First. An insulating film with a thickness of at least 200 µm should be used. The film strips should intersect at least 20 cm. The film should be wrapped around the perimeter on the walls, by 5-6 cm.
- We press on the strips, squeezing out excess glue.
- Next, lay the heat-insulating layer. For this, foamed polyethylene is often used, or expanded polystyrene - for better heat transfer.
- After preparing the base, the laying of the parquet board follows. Laying should begin from the longest wall that does not contain a doorway. The first board is fastened in the corner of the wall, between the wall and the parquet gaps should be wedged at a distance of up to 8 mm.
- Subsequent boards are also laid along the wall. The distance between the wall and the boards must be at least 7 mm, along the entire length of the masonry.
- A new row begins with the remaining segment of the previous one. It is necessary to connect the boards with special grooves. Using a rubber mallet, you can gently tap on the junction of the two boards to securely fasten them.
- After the hollow installation of the parquet board over the entire area, remove the wedges and cut off the excess length of the waterproofing material. .
- The last step is around the entire perimeter of the room.
Wait at least 7 days for the rest of the work.
Final work
Tsiklevka
After the glue dries, proceed to. At the beginning, the parquet is polished with a coarse sandpaper at number 60, the scraping process is completed with sandpaper with a finer grain. The grinding process is recommended to be performed at least three times.
Varnishing
Finishes the varnishing process. There are many types of varnishes, depending on the purpose of the surface for varnishing. Before varnishing, the floor is puttied, and then applied to it primer varnish. Lacquer should be applied in three layers. In public places, it is better to use special oils to treat the coating, as they are more resistant to friction and do not wear off as easily as varnish.
Video instruction
The cost and quality of parquet boards
The following factors influence the pricing of parquet:
- Type of wood.
- Parquet manufacturer.
- The number of lanes.
Redwood parquet is more expensive than regular parquet. Because it's more visually appealing.
All manufacturers have their own technology, their own resources, their own quality of goods. Therefore, high-quality goods from famous manufacturers are more expensive than their counterparts from lesser-known companies.
Plank wood parquet is the most expensive on the market, as it is made from one solid piece of wood. Two and three strip boards are made from several planks.
When choosing a parquet, one should not think that a high price is a guarantee of quality. The most expensive is the exotic wood parquet, which is better suited for design, but has the same quality as the average cost parquet. So the best option is parquet of average price and high quality. The average price of a parquet board per square meter is from 1,500 to 5,000 rubles.
Operating rules
- Clean the parquet surface with a wrung out cloth - parquet is afraid of moisture.
- When vacuuming, prevent the hard surface from coming into contact with the parquet so as not to spoil its appearance. It is best to use a brush on the nozzle.
- Try to move the furniture on the floor so as not to damage the surface of the parquet. Use soft stickers on furniture legs.
By following all the nuances and tips indicated in this article, you will be able to install a reliable coating, and you will enjoy parquet flooring for many years.