Delphinium perennial: cultivation and care. Delphinium - growing from seeds and care in open ground What is needed for planting delphinium

Delphinium, also known as spur or larkspur, is especially loved by gardeners - this is one of the few herbaceous plants for open ground, the flowers of which are naturally colored in various shades of blue. Planting and caring for perennial delphinium requires increased attention, careful preparation and consistency. Difficulties can be overcome if you use the proposed instructions and advice.

Preparing to plant delphinium in open ground

Spur is considered a capricious flower, the success of growing which depends on correctly carried out preparatory measures.

Landing dates

Plants can be planted/transplanted in spring (April-May) or autumn (from late August to mid-September). Growing delphinium from seedlings is the most optimal method, suitable for any region. Sowing of seeds is carried out two months before the intended movement of young plants to flower beds.

Yes, for middle zone best time- mid-March, in the southern regions - the second half of February, Siberia and the Urals - early April. Gardeners in the south do not bother with germinating seedlings, sowing seeds directly into open ground. The first half of April or from the second half of September to mid-October is considered a suitable time for sowing.

Choosing a location on the site

If you choose the right place where it is best to plant the delphinium, the handsome openwork will show itself in all its glory:

1. Good lighting. It is better to plant where the sun shines in the morning and late afternoon, and where there is shade at midday. Delphinium tolerates heat well, but the flowers of brightly colored varieties fade under the sun and lose their attractiveness and decorativeness.
2. Wind protection. Most varieties are tall, the hollow stems of these plants easily break under gusts of wind. However, almost all garden flowers do not like drafty places.
3. No moisture stagnation. Rain or melt water that is not absorbed into the soil for a long time contributes to rotting of the roots.
4. Soil preparation
5. The ideal soil for larkspur is moderately moist loam or sandy loam, rich in organic matter, neutral or slightly acidic.

Soil preparation

Clay areas are corrected: sand take 1-2 buckets/sq.m, mineral complexes - 50-80 g/sq.m, compost or humus - 20-25 kg/sq.m. Depleted soils are enriched per square: minerals - 40-50 g; organic - 10-15 kg. The acidic soil is limed, and granulated sulfur (30-50 g/sq.m.) is added to the alkaline soil.

• dig up the soil using the bayonet of a shovel;
• lay out a 20-centimeter layer of drainage;
• mix the excavated soil with rotted compost (1 bucket), ash (2 cups), bone meal (1 cup) and superphosphate (2 tbsp) per 1 sq.m.

The flowerbed turns out to be elevated, which the delphiniums like.

Selection and preparation of planting material

Spurs are planted by seeds or vegetatively, that is, by cuttings or “divisions” of the rhizome. The vegetative method definitely produces pure-quality offspring. It is better to buy seeds for sowing from famous manufacturers: agricultural firms “Aelita”, “Gavrish”, “SeDek”, “Poisk”, etc. Cuttings and “divisions” are taken from 2-3-year-old queen cells.

Seed preparation algorithm:

1. Disinfection in a pale pink solution of potassium permanganate, Maxim or Fitosporin preparations for 20 minutes.
2. The treated seeds are washed with running water.
3. Then soak in water for a day with the addition of a few drops of Zircon or Epin. The drugs can be replaced with folk remedies - aloe, honey.
4. The soaked seeds, wrapped in a damp cloth, are placed in a container and put away for stratification (i.e., in the refrigerator). The napkin in which the seeds are wrapped must remain moist, but not “float” in the water, otherwise the seeds will suffocate and die.
5. Stratification continues until the seeds hatch. Then the bundle is moved to a well-lit windowsill and kept under a phytolamp for several days.
6. Then the material is sown in seedling containers or in open ground.

Another method for preparing seeds: after disinfection, they are wrapped in a damp cloth and packaged in plastic bag and dig it in the area for a couple of weeks. The method is applicable at low (around 0°C) temperatures.

Landing technique

Successful germination of seeds and further care of seedlings completely depend on the accuracy of the technology.

Sowing seedlings

To please the capricious “king of the flower garden” with vigorous flowering from the first year, follow the following instructions sequentially:

1. Determine the timing of sowing. They begin to sow in February if there is equipment for additional illumination of the seedlings, otherwise wait for an increase in the length of daylight hours.
2. Pre-sowing seed treatment is carried out.
3. Select containers for sowing. Quickly decomposing individual pots where one seed is sown is not the best option. The root system of the seedling does not immediately absorb the soil, which can lead to souring. It is optimal to sow in shallow seedling containers with drainage holes.
4. On a note! A good option- disposable packaging for food products. If it has already been used, it must be disinfected.
5. Prepare the substrate. Purchased soil is suitable: universal for seedlings or succulents. Mix peat, vegetable or garden soil, humus or compost, sand (2:4:2:1) yourself. The mixture is sifted, perlite is added (1 cup/10 liters of soil mixture).
6. Disinfect the soil by heating it in the oven for an hour. Purchased soil is spilled with a solution of “Fitosporin” or “Fitolavina”.
7. Fill the containers with the prepared substrate, tamping it lightly.
8. The seeds are laid out on the surface, without deepening or pressing down.
9. Sprinkle with a thin layer of soil mixture or vermiculite.
10. Cover with a lid or cover with cling film.
11. The container with the crops is placed in a cool, dark place.

Spur shoots appear by the middle of the 2nd week. Gardeners advise checking the crops daily from 6-7 days in order to immediately transfer the seedlings to a warmer place. The film or cover can be removed.

Seedlings are grown under the following conditions:

• moist soil;
• daylight hours 12-14 hours;
• temperature regime 18-20°C.

Seedlings dive at the stage of two true leaves. Place the sprouts in separate small glasses. The substrate is taken as for germination, adding to it a complete mineral complex of 2 tbsp/10 l of substrate.

After picking, the temperature and light conditions do not change. The first watering of seedlings is carried out after a week, if during the transplanting process the soil was abundantly moistened. Before planting in the flower bed, the seedlings are fed with complex mineral fertilizers (Agricola, Fertika Plus, etc.) every two weeks.

Attention! Root feeding; if the solution gets on the leaves, it should be washed off immediately with water.

Sowing in the ground

Direct sowing of spur grass seeds is carried out from the second half of April. For this purpose, a special garden bed is being prepared:

• the soil is dug up to a depth of about 30 cm;
• apply complex fertilizers;
• make shallow grooves, about one and a half centimeters;
• pour plenty of water;
• seeds are laid out in the grooves;
• sprinkle with dry substrate.

In order for the seeds to germinate faster and more easily, the crops are covered with agrofibre or a black (dark) film. The crops are periodically moistened, preventing the soil from drying out. The cover is removed after germination - at 3-4 weeks. During the first season, seedlings are watered moderately, fed twice a month, the soil is loosened and weeds are removed. In winter, the garden bed is covered with spruce branches so that the young plants do not freeze. In the spring of the second year, the young shoots of the spur are transplanted to a prepared permanent place.

Caring for delphinium in open ground

Activities related to plant care are not difficult, the main rule is regularity.

Watering

During the growing season, one plant needs 65 liters of water. When there is little rainfall in the summer, 2-3 buckets of water are poured weekly under each bush. More frequent, but less abundant watering is required at the stage of inflorescence formation. If there is a lack of moisture, some of the buds do not develop properly, and empty spaces appear in the inflorescence.

Note! Water the delphinium strictly at the root; surface watering does not benefit the plant. It is undesirable for water to get on the green parts of the plant - stems, leaves.

In late autumn, if there is little precipitation, water abundantly so that preparation for winter takes place without complications. After each watering, when the soil dries, loosening is carried out.

Trimming

The first time pruning is done when the stems grow to 30 cm. The flower stalks are thinned out according to the following scheme: for plants blooming for the first time, 2 stems are left; adults – 4-5. Side shoots of tapeworm plants are removed. They are left in delphiniums growing in mixed plantings. Faded shoots are removed so that the plant does not waste energy on the formation and ripening of seeds. Before winter, cut off the last flower stalks at a height of 30 cm.

Top dressing

During the season, fertilizing is applied twice:

• early spring - urea (2 tbsp), potassium sulfate (2 tbsp) and superphosphate (1 tbsp) per square;
• before flowering, 1 tbsp. l. potassium and phosphate fertilizers per sq. m;

From August, feeding is stopped so as not to stimulate growth and continued flowering, but to allow the plant to lay flower buds for the next season. To root system, located close to the surface of the earth, did not receive burns from fertilizers, it is recommended to dig special grooves where to pour nutrient solution. During budding, spur leaves are sprayed with a solution boric acid(50 g/l).

Preparing for winter

After flowering is completed and the leaves dry, the stems are cut at a level of 30-35 cm above ground level. The internal cavities of the shoots are covered with garden pitch or clay so that moisture does not get into them, penetrate to the roots and cause rotting. Frost-resistant delphiniums do not need shelter for the winter; only young plants are covered. If weather forecasters promise frosts and little snow for the winter, it is advisable to cover the bases of delphinium bushes with spruce branches or straw. Experienced flower growers Before winter, they also dig grooves around each plant to drain rainwater in the fall and melt water in the spring.

Note! “When the stems grow to 60 cm tall, the plant needs to be tied up.

To do this, three pegs are driven into the ground around it and the flower stalks are fixed using a wide braid or tape.”

Reproduction methods

Like all herbaceous plants for open ground, delphinium can be grown from seeds, cuttings and “divisions” of rhizomes.

Reproduction of perennial delphinium by division

Dividing the rhizome of a mature spur is the simplest and therefore popular method. The age of the plant suitable for division is 3-4 years. Older or younger bushes tolerate the procedure less well. The division is carried out:

• in spring, when fresh leaves begin to sprout;
• in the fall, when the seeds begin to ripen (and new foliage grows again).

The root is carefully removed from the soil, keeping as large an earthen lump as possible. They break it or cut it with a sharp instrument, leaving on each division a bunch of roots, one young shoot and one dormant bud. This is enough to young plant quickly grew green mass and prepared for flowering. “Delenki” are seated in prepared places. They are carefully looked after until autumn and covered for the winter.

Propagation of perennial delphinium by seeds

A description of the process of growing spurs from seeds is given above. Let's add a few words about collecting and storing seeds. Delphinium sets seeds easily, but different quality. To minimize the loss of time and effort on germinating unpromising seeds, they resort to the following technique: 10-15 lower flowers are left in each inflorescence candle, the rest are cut off. To prevent ripe seeds (they must ripen while still standing) from scattering, the peduncle is wrapped in a single layer of thin cotton cloth or gauze. Ripe seeds are stored in glass jars or foil bags at low temperatures. Self-collected seeds do not always inherit the varietal qualities of the parent plants; for those who like experiments and surprises, this serves as an additional incentive.

Propagation of delphinium by cuttings

For propagation, apical cuttings are taken. They are prepared in the spring by cutting out young 10-centimeter shoots. Separate from the mother bush at the very root collar with a piece of root tissue. Larkspur cuttings are rooted in a substrate consisting of peat and sand in a 1:1 ratio. Deepen by 2 cm and cover with a transparent cap. Conditions for successful rooting: shade, temperature 20-25°C, high humidity. The process lasts about 5-6 weeks. The cuttings are transplanted to a permanent place in the spring.

Note! “When growing delphiniums in groups, the distance between plants is maintained at least 30 cm.”

Diseases and pests

Black spot - on lower leaves black spots appear, gradually rising up the stem. For treatment, spray with tetracycline solution (1 tablet/1 liter of water). Powdery mildew - plaque grey- white on the leaves, darkening to brown over time. Plants are treated with a solution of Fundazol, Topaz or other fungicides. Ramularia - leaves become covered with small spots, dry out, and fall off. Treated with antifungal agents. Ring spot - appearance yellow spots irregular shape on the leaves. Viral disease reliable means there is no fight. Plants are dug up and destroyed.

Phorbia (delphinium fly) lays eggs in unopened buds. A control measure is spraying with insecticides (Prometrin, Iskra) at the budding stage. Spider mites attack plants when the air is too dry. Prevention and destruction of the pest - green soap, "Fitoverm". Aphids - plants are treated from the first days of spring. In addition to ready-made insecticides, folk remedies are used: infusions of tobacco, garlic, and onion. Slugs are most dangerous for young seedlings. It is optimal to use traps or sprinkle the soil with dry mustard, eggshell, hot pepper.

Remember! Most often, delphinium diseases are the result of violations of care rules or unfavorable weather conditions, such as: prolonged rains, high humidity, poor air circulation between plants.

Popular types of delphinium

More than 400 species of annual and perennial delphiniums are known. They differ in height, color and structure of the flower, and flowering period. Domestic gardeners love several species.

Delphinium hybrids

A group of tall delphiniums - from 1 to 2 m and above. The rhizome is short, the stem is hollow, erect. Flowers of irregular shape - simple, semi-double and double - form a cluster-shaped inflorescence. The flowers are painted in various tones of blue, blue, lilac, violet, pink and white. Flowering in July, in the southern regions again in September. Preference is given to the varieties “blue lace”, “winter’s daughter”, “King Arthur”, “Pushkin”, “pink sunset”, “lilac spiral”.

On a note! The “black knight” variety with large double flowers thick inky color.

Delphinium Belladonna

Graceful plants with loose panicle inflorescences. They begin to bloom in June, with the second wave occurring in mid-to-late August. The flowers are simple and semi-double, color from white to deep blue with all shades. They are considered ideal for beginners, since caring for this group of varieties is easier. Prominent representatives Berghimmel, Casablanca, Lamartine, Piccolo.

Delphinium grandiflorum

The standard height of the species is up to 80 cm. The stem is straight, branched. The color of the flowers is rich, blue, pink or white. The flowers are medium in size, the inflorescence is racemose. Blooms from the second half of July. The favorite varieties of delphinium grandiflorum among summer residents are “pink butterfly”, “blue butterfly”, “white butterfly”.

Delphinium field

An annual plant up to one and a half meters high. The flowers are simple, double and semi-double, in pink, blue, lilac and white shades. Blooms from June to September. The following varieties have become widespread: FrostedSky, QisRose, QisDarkBlue.

Delphinium tall (DelphiniumElatum)

A tall (up to 180 cm) line of varieties with dense pyramidal inflorescences, the length of which reaches 40 cm. The flowers are often semi-double, large - about 8 cm. Flowering occurs in the second half of June - early June. Blooms again towards the end of summer. The best varieties: “agenweid”, “finstearon”, Sungleam. On a note! In addition to those listed, Pacific and New Zealand hybrids, distinguished by their variety of colors and tall stature, and hybrids of domestic selection - Marfinsky - are also popular.

Delphinium in landscape design

Slender, elegant delphiniums are used in the background of mixborders; next to decorative tall evergreen or early flowering shrubs; for decorating the walls of outbuildings and fences; to accent the center of the flowerbed; when decorating borders and ridges (low-growing species); on alpine roller coaster(miniature varieties); as tapeworms in lawns or among ground covers. At joint plantings spurs looks impressive with phlox, roses (including climbing roses), and lilies.

Planting and caring for perennial delphinium requires some effort; it is not for nothing that it is called the “king of flower beds.” The troubles and time spent are completely repaid by the enchanting beauty of the blooming candle inflorescences. Besides, what you put your soul into, willy-nilly, you value more.

Delphinium – pretty unusual plant, which always stands out from the majority thanks to its impressive growth and incredible beauty their flowers. Many gardeners dream of growing this giant in their garden, which is quite simple. Nevertheless, certain subtleties are still present in this process. Today you will meet the best varieties perennial delphinium, and also learn all about the features of its planting, as well as about care and pest control (photo instructions for caring for the plant are attached for your reference).

Delphinium perennial: description, characteristics of the best varieties

Delphinium is a plant of amazing beauty and resilience that belongs to the Ranunculaceae family and for many years has been “looking” at the world with the wide eyes of its luxurious petals of blue, white or purple. The plant can reach a height of 2 m and today has more than 800 varieties.

The plant has a fairly powerful peduncle, on which there is a dense bunch of flowers, collected together in the form of a pyramidal figure. Inside almost every flower there are several petals of a darker shade than all the others.

Among the variety of delphinium varieties, you can find double, super-double, dwarf, giant, etc. The perennial plant was originally grown using one of two species: Delphinium grandiflora/tall. Over time, the first hybrids were developed. Today you can find about 800 different varieties delphinium, each of which belongs to one of 5 main categories:

1. Marfin hybrids. Although this category delphinium and is called hybrid; almost all representatives of this species retain 80-90% of the characteristics of their parents. Externally, they are represented by plants of quite impressive size - 1.7-2 m. The “highlight” of the species is appearance bush: it is quite strong, tall (about 1.7-1.8 m, some specimens reach 2 m in height) and dense with semi-double flowers of a delicate shade.
2. Belladonna. The original subspecies of delphinium. The only one presented in the list has a “drooping” type of inflorescence (panicle).
3. Elatum. Unlike other varieties, this one stands out because almost every plant has flowers of similar shades (ranging from soft blue, almost transparent, to rich lilac and purple shades).
4. Pacific hybrids are distinguished by their gigantic growth (almost all of them reach a height of about 2 m) and large, dense semi-double inflorescences.

Among the huge variety of delphinium varieties, it is quite difficult to single out just a few, but perhaps we can focus on a few of the most striking.

• Snow lace. The plant has a delicate delicate aroma. The bushes grow to an average height - about 1.5 m, and the length of the peduncle is slightly less than half a meter. The variety has an unusual delicate flowers white color, characterized by luxurious appearance. Flowering occurs very luxuriantly and quickly.
• Princess Caroline. It is considered one of the most aesthetically attractive varieties of delphinium. The plant is considered a giant: its stem reaches 2 m in height, the flowers can reach 10 cm in diameter. The petals are painted in a delicate pinkish color.

• Pink butterfly. The variety is distinguished by rather low bushes: the height of the stem reaches a maximum of 1 m. But the variety blooms with rather unusual flowers hot pink color, which, when blooming, look like a flying butterfly. The plant is extremely popular among landscape designers who use it primarily for trimming tall bushes and trees.

Methods for propagating delphinium

This process can be carried out in several ways. Let's look at each of them in detail. So, if you are planning to replant a plant and it is already decorating your garden plot about 3 years, you can plant a delphinium by dividing the bush. For this in early spring When the bushes are not yet very tall (no higher than 15 cm), you need to carefully dig up one of them and divide it into several parts.

Advice. In order for the delphinium to take root well in a new place, try to divide in such a way that at least 1 shoot remains on each separate part of the rhizome.

First of all, remove all damaged parts, clean the rhizome from any remaining soil and rinse it thoroughly with warm water.

Carefully lower the separated parts into containers with prepared soil mixture consisting of sand, humus and black soil in equal proportions. Sprinkle the planted parts with soil and send them to a warm place for a couple of weeks (no longer, since the transplanted sprouts take root very quickly). After this period, you can plant in open ground.

Propagation by cuttings is also carried out in early spring. It is necessary to cut off 10-centimeter shoots so as to capture part of the rhizome. The resulting cuttings can be safely planted immediately in open ground, and after a couple of weeks they can be moved to the garden.

Advice. Remember: in order for cuttings planted on the site to quickly take root and immediately begin to grow, they must be regularly sprayed with water (several times a day).

Well, and finally, propagation by seeds. To do this, you need to prepare them ahead of time (in the fall). Keep in a cool place. You can start planting seeds with the onset of the first days of spring. Seeds are sown in a container with a prepared soil mixture consisting of the same components as when propagating delphinium by division.

The seeds are lowered into prepared shallow grooves at a distance of about 6 cm from each other, sprinkled with a thin layer of soil, which should be slightly moistened with a spray bottle.

Growing in open ground

Regarding planting delphinium and caring for it in open ground, then this process is not so complicated, however, there are certain nuances here.

Soil preparation and planting

You should choose a place suitable for delphinium very carefully, since the plant loves the sun very much and reacts negatively to wind and strong shadow. Therefore, for planting, choose a sunny, warm place with minimal access to wind and shade (but the shadow must still be present over the area where the flower is planted for 2-3 hours a day, otherwise it may simply get burned).

Delphinium is absolutely not afraid of frost (it can withstand even -30 degrees), so even in the harshest climate it will take root well.

Attention! Delphinium has a fairly powerful root system, but located close to the surface. For this reason, in no case should you choose as a planting site a place in which large clearings appear in the spring - the rhizome may simply dry out.

Delphinium loves fertile and fairly light neutral/slightly acidic soil, but at the same time feels quite confident on loam if it is properly fertilized. For these purposes, you can use peat, humus, etc.

With the onset of autumn, the area for the delphinium should be dug up with a shovel and fertilized with a peat-manure mixture. In the spring (immediately before planting), the soil is dug up again, and potassium salt and superphosphate in an amount of about 60 g, as well as ammonium sulfate (about 40 g), are added to it.

Now you can start preparing the holes. Their depth should be about 0.5 m, and the distance is selected individually (it all depends on the size of the variety chosen for planting). Some of the soil from the hole is mixed with compost and sent back. When it settles (in a couple of days), you can plant the plant in the way that is most optimal for you.

Features of delphinium care

This process is quite simple, but it must be carried out on a regular basis. The main thing is to water the plant on time, provide it with nutrients and periodically thin it out, because the denser the delphinium grows in the area, the smaller its size.

As for fertilizing, there should be at least 3 of them per season:

• The first is carried out in early spring. Ammonium nitrate mixture (15 g), calcium chloride(30 g), superphosphate (70 g) and ammonium sulfate (40 g) is poured under the bush and slightly deeper into the ground.
• The delphinium is fertilized for the second time during the period of its appearance. large quantity buds. This time the plant should be fed with a mixture of potassium and superphosphate (each element in the amount of 40 g).
• The third time the same mixture is used as the first. Plant feeding is carried out approximately at the end of August.

Disease and pest control

Delphinium is a beautiful plant that lives in one place for up to 10 years, but, unfortunately, is highly susceptible to various diseases. Next, about what diseases and pests the delphinium most often “suffers” from and how to protect it from them:

• Powdery mildew. White-gray coating appearing on the surface of leaves. Over time, damaged leaves darken and die completely. Control method: sulfur gas (1%) must be sprayed on the plant until the symptoms of the disease are eliminated.
• False powdery mildew. Yellowish spots on visible side sheet, on the reverse side is formed white coating. Control method: thin out the bushes and spray with Bordeaux mixture (1%).
• Black leaf spot. Black spots on the visible side of the leaf, gradually covering the entire leaf and moving to the stem. Control method: spray the root collar with 1% sublimate, and after some time with Bordeaux mixture.

• Ring spot. Patterns yellow color on the leaves. Control method: removal of diseased plants from the site and careful adherence to agricultural techniques for growing the flower.
• Slugs. This pest loves to feast on young, juicy delphinium sprouts. You can eliminate the “threat” by regularly thinning the bushes and loosening the soil on the site. You can add potassium salt under each bush.

This brings our acquaintance with the peculiarities of growing delphinium in the garden to its logical conclusion. Now you know how to grow beautiful and healthy plant. Good luck!

Growing delphinium: video

(popular names - “larkspur”, “spur”) will give originality to the lawn or flowerbed and become an effective decoration of the yard. Powerful stems with inflorescences of lavender, pink or sea green color - this is delphinium. Planting and caring for it is not difficult: the plant is unpretentious, grows well with seedlings and without seedlings and can become one of the first successes of a novice gardener.

Selection and preparation of seed material

Delphinium annual is mainly propagated through seed material. Growing from seeds is optimal for Delphinium Ajaxova, popular in Russian latitudes, and various “hyacinth” varieties.

ON THE PICTURE: Dark pink Delphinium Ajax.

It is advisable to propagate Pacific hybrids only by seeds ( Pacific ), bred in California. These include varieties:

• "King Arthur";
• "Black Knight";
• "Astolet";
• "Galahad";
• Blue Jay, etc.

When propagated by seeds, such delphiniums retain 60–90% of the varietal characteristics, which is important for those who collect delphinium varieties or are simply a big fan of it.

Another method of propagation is vegetative (cuttings, buds, rhizome division) - suitable for perennial species delphinium, growing from seeds carries the risk of losing varietal characteristics. Propagated directly from the parent plant, young bushes receive all of it varietal characteristics and characteristics including: color, flower shape, habit (appearance) and even resistance to certain diseases! Dense varieties of flowers that do not form seeds are also bred vegetatively.

Seeds can be purchased at the store or collected with your own hands in early autumn, when they are ripe.

ON THE PICTURE: Delphinium seeds.

One plant with four inflorescences can produce up to 2.5 thousand seeds. This is quite a lot, especially for small or compact varieties delphinium. Therefore, in order to protect the parent plant from depletion, when the seeds ripen, they are left only the lower part of the inflorescence and 10–15 leaves.

A significant problem when growing delphiniums from seeds in the same place for many years is their self-seeding. To avoid unauthorized “sowing” near parent plants, you need to collect seeds immediately after they ripen and prevent mature “seeds” from spilling onto the ground.

After collection, the seeds remain viable for two to four years (when stored in a closet). If you place the seed in the refrigerator, hermetically sealing the jar with it, its germination will be preserved for an unlimited time.

Pre-sowing treatment of delphinium seeds

ON THE PICTURE: Spotting of plant leaves.

Sowing delphinium for seedlings - timing and agricultural technology

You can sow delphinium for seedlings in March–April, depending on the region. The more continental the climate is and the more likely late severe frosts are, the later it is worth starting sowing. For example, in the northern regions Leningrad region, in the Urals and Siberia, planting grown seedlings in the ground “shifts” closer to the end of May or even June.

It is most convenient to use for growing seedlings that decompose in the soil peat pots. The root system of delphiniums is vulnerable and does not tolerate transplantation well, and planting in such containers reduces possible damage to the roots to a minimum.

The substrate for seedlings needs to be light, with a slightly acidic reaction. Optimal temperature for growing delphinium seedlings - 12–15°C. Subject to proper care conditions, seedlings appear in 8–10 days. For full growth, seedlings need sufficient light and moderate regular watering.

ON THE PICTURE: Delphinium seedlings.

Seedlings after the first true leaf has formed. In the conditions of central Russia, they can be planted in open ground in early May, since delphinium is not afraid of light spring frosts.

Young plants are grown at home and transplanted to a permanent place in the garden in the fall or next spring.

Growing delphinium with seeds in open ground

Optimal sowing dates

In moderately warm and warm regions of Russia, it is much easier to grow delphiniums through direct sowing in open ground. There is no particular need to grow their seedlings.

Flowers are sown in open ground in the spring (no later than the second half of April, otherwise the plants will not have time to fully bloom), and in the fall, in September-October - delphinium tolerates moderately cold winters well under the cover of snow.

Delphinium is able to survive frosts of at least 20-23°C without shelter. But the sharp contrast of frost and thaw sometimes provokes the growth of seeds and the subsequent death of seedlings.

Choosing a place for sowing delphinium in open ground

Delphinium can grow in one place for up to 5 years or even longer. The ideal place for sowing it is a well-lit area with protection from the wind and slight shading during the midday hours.

For delphiniums, sandy or loamy soil with moderate moisture and a sufficient amount of humus is best suited, ideally slightly acidic. It is permissible to sow delphinium in clay soil, if you first improve it. For this purpose, per 1 sq. m. clay soil 1–2 buckets of sand, 50–80 g of mineral complex fertilizer, 20–25 kg are added. compost (you can replace it with humus).

Poorer soils must be prepared for growing delphiniums. To do this, complex mineral fertilizers are applied in an amount of 40–50 g per 1 sq. m. m. and 10–15 kg. organic matter per the same area.

Delphinium seed sowing technology

Sowing delphinium for growing in open ground is done as follows:

• “Recesses-nests” are prepared at a distance of 15–25 cm from each other.
• 4–5 delphinium seeds are added to each “nest,” which are then buried about 1–2 cm into the soil. The larger the seeds of the variety, the deeper they are placed in the ground.
• The seeds are carefully covered with a layer of earth.
• Sown delphiniums are watered abundantly and mulched with humus or fresh peat to retain moisture in the soil.

ON THE PICTURE:It is important to deepen the delphinium seeds sufficiently when planting, depending on the variety.

After 10–20 days from planting, seedlings will begin to appear. Further care for young plants includes watering, fertilizing and creating the best conditions for flowering.

Watering delphinium seedlings

Delphiniums do not like waterlogged soil. Excess moisture can cause rotting of the rhizome, but even if this disease bypasses the plants, overwatering will cause large areas without flowers to appear in the inflorescences. Because of such “bald spots,” plants will lose their decorative properties.

ON THE PICTURE:Automatic drip watering of seedlings or young plants is perhaps the most convenient way organization of watering.

Watering delphiniums should be plentiful during drought and after each application of fertilizer. Solution minerals It will only be beneficial if it saturates the soil to the roots. In other cases, watering should be regular and moderate, not too often and not superficially.

Feeding delphinium

When planting, a certain reserve is introduced into the soil nutrients, but several additional feedings are required throughout the year.

• When the plants grow to 10–15 cm, they are fed with liquid organic matter or complex mineral fertilizer.
• During budding or when the first flowers bloom, a second feeding is carried out with a high percentage of potassium and phosphorus compounds in the composition. Such feeding is definitely required in the event of a friendly and abundant flowering.
• At the end of the flowering period, when renewal buds are formed, delphinium needs fertilizer in the form of a potassium-phosphorus complex, without nitrogen.

ON THE PICTURE: When the first delphinium buds appear, it’s time to feed it a second time.

Delphinium - perennial garden flower called the king of blue flowers. Of course, white, yellow, and pink varieties of delphinium are now grown, but such pure, deep shades of blue are unique to the flowers of this plant. Lush tall paniculate or pyramidal inflorescences will look impressive in a flower garden. Flowers with an interesting spur formed by the upper petals gave rise to another name for this plant - spur.

Genus Delphinium(Delphinium) includes more than 400 species of herbaceous plants. Numerous varieties and varieties of delphinium are obtained by crossing natural species, their common name is delphinium hybrid(D. hybridum). This is a perennial plant with strongly dissected leaves and stems up to 2 meters high. One bush of the plant can produce 10-15 stems with peduncles, however, to obtain large lush inflorescences in the spring, excess shoots are broken off, leaving up to five of the strongest ones.

Flowers at delphiniums Depending on the variety, there are simple ones with five petals and double ones with a large number of petals. The color of the flowers represents a large palette of all shades of blue to bright pink and white. A peculiar fly in the center of the flower, white or black, gives it a special charm.

Delphinium is often grown for cutting; the bright inflorescences stand well in bouquets, preserving decorative look up to two weeks.

In the flower garden It is important to correctly combine delphinium with other colors. Its inflorescences stand out vertically, so delphinium is often planted in the center of a flower garden or in the background of other plants. It is necessary to play it up, for example, with decorative grasses or smaller flowers with the same bright, pure tones. Since after flowering the delphinium loses its decorative appearance, it is recommended to place phlox, astilbe, Turkish carnation, and aquilegia in the foreground. Ornamental shrubs will serve as a perfect background for tall inflorescences.

Delphiniums are blooming mainly in June, lasting up to a month. If after flowering you cut off the flower stalks without allowing the seeds to set, the plants may bloom again at the end of summer.

Perennial delphinium can be called both unpretentious and capricious plant requiring careful care. It is quite frost-resistant and drought-resistant plant, grows in one place for up to 10 years and over time develops into a fairly powerful bush. When caring for delphinium, be careful, as all its parts are poisonous; wear gloves when working.

First of all, choose the most suitable one for planting delphinium. place for this plant and prepare the soil before planting.

The stems of this plant are very fragile, the wind can easily break even tied inflorescences, so the planting site should be protected from strong winds. As they grow, the stems are tied several times, since the peduncles will bend and break under their weight.

Some varieties of delphinium fade in the sun and the flowers fade, so it is better if the area where delphiniums grow is illuminated by the sun in the first half of the day.

The soil the most suitable is loam rich in organic matter with a neutral reaction. Before planting, the soil is dug deeply, rotted manure or compost and complex mineral fertilizer are added.

Planting carried out in spring or late summer. The perennial grows over time into a large bush, so the plants are planted at a distance of 50-70 cm from each other.

Watering delphinium In the first year after planting regularly, the soil should always be moderately moist. In subsequent years, it is better to water the plant rarely, but abundantly, especially after applying fertilizers.

Delphinium grows a large green mass, so the plant needs feed about three times per summer. In the spring, with the beginning of growth, mainly nitrogen fertilizer is applied. At the beginning of flowering, feeding should be comprehensive. After flowering, the delphinium is fed with phosphorus-potassium fertilizer.

After the leaves turn yellow, in the fall, the above-ground part of the plant is cut off, leaving stumps 20-25 cm high on the stems. Most varieties of delphinium overwinter well, withstanding frosts down to -30 0 C.

Propagate delphinium on your own site it is easier to divide the bush or take cuttings. When propagating by seeds, please note that they quickly lose their germination capacity and are stored in the refrigerator until planting time, but on their own collected seeds delphinium often does not convey varietal characteristics.

For getting flowering plant In the first year, delphinium is grown through seedlings. Sowing is carried out in February - early March in peat tablets or small greenhouses. For seedlings to emerge, the crops are kept in the light at a temperature of +18...+24 0 C and high humidity. Shoots will appear in three to four weeks. After germination, the seedlings are transferred to a cool place with a temperature of +15...+18 0 C and ventilated often. Young plants dive into separate cups after the appearance of two or three leaves. Delphinium seedlings are planted after spring frosts.

Seeds are sown in open ground in May. The crops are often moistened, and shoots should appear in 20-25 days. Seedlings will bloom on next year.

Delphiniums are susceptible to disease, in particular powdery mildew and black spot. To reduce the risk of their occurrence, water the plants at the roots so that water does not get on the leaves. The most dangerous viral diseases are cucumber mosaic and ring spot; when they appear, immediately dig up the plants and burn them. It is possible to plant delphiniums in the same place only after 5-6 years.

Tender stems and leaves are often attacked by insect pests - the delphinium fly, spider mite, slugs.

Delphinium (larkspur, spur) perennial is a tall herbaceous crop belonging to the buttercup family. The stem of the flower is hollow and can reach 2.5 m in height. Thanks to its spectacular bright inflorescences, delphinium looks good as a background plant in group flower planting. In addition to its beauty, delphinium is very unpretentious in care, drought- and frost-resistant, blooms again after trimming faded inflorescences, and pleases the eye for several years without the need for replanting.

Popular varieties of delphinium

There are many species of this plant in nature; it is not possible to describe them all. Below we list only the most beautiful and popular varieties, widely used by gardeners in landscape design:

Delphinium Leroy

A tall crop that came to us from hot Africa. The flower is very heat-loving; its inherent advantage over many other species is its magnificent sweetish smell, somewhat reminiscent of the aroma of vanilla. The stem of Leroy's delphinium reaches 1.5 m in height, the buds are painted snow-white, sometimes greenish.

Delphinium pyramidalis

IN wildlife grows in mountainous areas - this is what determines the plant’s ability to tolerate cold and frost well. This variety can easily withstand temperatures down to -20°C; the Himalayas are considered the plant’s homeland. This variety is completely undemanding when it comes to soil; it grows well even on poor rocky soils. From approximately July to September, delphinium produces inflorescences covered with small flowers, up to 3 cm in diameter.

Delphinium terry

The perennial is loved by many gardeners for a long time and abundant flowering. This culture pleases the eye with its bright buds from May to August, the length of the plant stem reaches 1-2 m. The variety of shades is very large, blue and purple tones are considered the predominant colors. However, breeders do not stop there and develop new hybrid varieties. At the moment, in the gardens of Russia you can find terry delphinium in black, red and even yellow shades. This perennial crop can grow in the same place for 8 years.

Delphinium rarefied

It is a medium-sized plant, the stem of which does not exceed 75 cm in height. The Altai Territory is considered the birthplace of the culture. The lower part of the stem is covered with long hairs, the upper part is almost bare or with a short edge. The leaves are hard, pubescent, divided into uneven lobes. Inflorescences are loose clusters on the tops of the main stems, rarely on branches. Flowering period is July-August.

Delphinium Bruno

It is a heat-loving flower that does not tolerate frost well. As a rule, this variety is found in warm climates: in Tibet, the Pamirs, India, Afghanistan. However, in Russia, some gardeners plant this plant in flower beds, and with the arrival of the first cold weather, the crop is insulated with covering material. The height of the stem is up to 50 cm. The flowers are blue-violet or blue, collected in panicles of 5-10 pieces.

Delphinium tall

A herbaceous inhabitant of the Mongolian steppes and forests of Siberia. The tall, bare or slightly pubescent bluish stem can grow to gigantic sizes - up to 3 m, on average its height is 100 cm. The leaves are bare or partially pubescent, up to 16 cm wide, cut into 3 parts. The flowering period is only 20-25 days in mid-summer. The flowers are deep blue, collected in racemose inflorescences of 10-60 pieces. Delphinium tall is one of the most popular plants in breeding and has been cultivated since the second half of the 16th century.

Delphinium holostem

It is a medium-sized crop that reaches a height of no more than 1 m. The flowers of this variety are painted in a red-orange hue; the flowering period of the buds falls in June and July. This heat-loving plant is best grown in pots, putting them in a warm place for the winter.

Delphinium blue

A low-growing perennial plant whose inflorescences have a rich blue tint and a dark core. This variety also belongs to heat-loving crops, therefore, with the arrival of winter, the shrubs are transplanted into pots and brought into a warm room. If this is not done, new seeds will sprout in the flowerbed next year, but they will flower no earlier than a season later.

Delphinium labiosa

A perennial with a completely smooth stem height of up to 95 cm. It has a very attractive and unusual appearance. The flowers of this variety are painted in two colors: one surface of the petals has a blue-green tint, and the second is grayish-gray. The buds are collected in a racemose inflorescence.

Delphinium kashmirii

The stems are low - up to 40 cm, with serrated leaves divided into 5 parts. It is distinguished by an unusual shade of the flower - light purple with a black center. There may be other colors in the culture. The diameter of each bud is up to 5 cm.

Delphinium shortspur

Refers to low-growing crops. The height of its stem does not exceed 20-30 cm. This variety can be found in Alaska, the Arctic and some regions of Russia. This frost-resistant plant, able to easily withstand winter cold.

Delphinium: propagation and planting

Choosing a place to plant delphinium

The place for planting the delphinium should be well lit, but with shade from direct sunlight at midday. In an area unprotected from the sun, delphinium flowers will turn pale and lose their decorative effect. Due to the fact that tall shoots of delphinium can be easily damaged by strong winds (they easily break off at the base), choose a place for planting that is less windy and open: under the canopy of trees or next to bushes, a fence, or the wall of a house. Delphinium grows well in loose, fertilized soils. On light sandy loams, flowering will be paler and less abundant. For heavy ones clayey areas it is necessary to add sand and humus. Acidic, waterlogged soils are not suitable for growing delphinium.

Planting delphinium seeds in open ground

Seeds are sown in open ground in May or September (under film). To do this, make small grooves in the prepared soil in the garden bed and sow the seeds, sprinkling them with a thin (no more than 5 mm) layer of sand or earth. If planting was done in the fall, the seeds will undergo natural stratification and the germination rate will be higher. Shoots appear in 3-4 weeks.

Planting delphinium seeds for seedlings

IN room conditions Seeds for seedlings are sown in March. The soil for this purpose is loose and nutritious. After distributing the seeds on it, they are sprinkled with a 3 mm layer of earth and compacted so that they do not float up during the first watering. It is necessary to water carefully, preferably through a strainer. After this, the bowl with plantings is covered dark film or other covering material, because delphinium seeds germinate better in the dark.

The optimal temperature for germination is +10-15C. To speed up the emergence of seedlings, you can carry out stratification (exposure to cold): a container with seeds is placed in a refrigerator or balcony for a week at a temperature of +5C. After this, it is moved again to the windowsill. During this period, we must not forget to ventilate the crops, remove excess condensation from the film, and moisten the soil in a timely manner.

Shoots appear within 1-2 weeks. It is important not to miss this moment to remove the covering film. Picking is carried out when there are 1-2 true leaves. Seedlings are planted in open ground in late May - early June. These plants will bloom in August.

Planting rhizome cuttings of delphinium

To propagate delphinium by rhizome, bushes 3-5 years old are used. Division is carried out in early spring before active growth begins or in late August-early September after the end of the first wave of flowering. The rhizomes are divided into parts so that each of them has at least one growth bud. The sections are dusted with charcoal powder.

In the selected area, dig holes 50x40 cm. The excavated soil is mixed with humus and peat, and poured back. 50g of mineral fertilizers and a handful of wood ash are added to each hole. When planting, the root collar is left at ground level. After this, the plants are watered, weeds are regularly weeded and the ground is loosened. The distance between bushes is planned based on the variety and type:
✿ 50-60 cm - for tall hybrids (height more than 1.5 m)
✿ 40-50 cm - for medium-sized people (1.2-1.5 m)
✿ 30-40 cm - for short people (0.8-1.2 m)

Planting delphinium cuttings

For cuttings, young shoots that have reached 10-15 cm in height are used. In the spring, the cuttings are broken out along with the “heel” at the base of the plant and rooted in a mini-greenhouse at a temperature of +25C and bright, diffused lighting. After the cuttings have taken root (about 3-4 weeks), they are planted in open ground.

Delphinium perennial:
outdoor care

Delphinium is unpretentious in care and cultivation. Caring for it consists of watering, weeding, early thinning, fertilizing and tying up.

Watering delphinium

Delphinium is quite drought-resistant and does not like excess moisture, but during the formation of inflorescences it must be watered abundantly so that not only the upper, but also the deeper layers of the soil are saturated with moisture. Here we must follow the rule: quality is better than quantity. It happens that with abundant watering and intense heat, bald (without flowers) areas may appear in the inflorescences. The use of phosphorus-potassium fertilizers during the budding period will help to minimize such manifestations.

Thinning and pruning delphinium

In the second year of the growing season, the delphinium produces a lot of shoots, so that it blooms profusely large flowers, it is necessary to thin out the bush of the plant. This is done in the spring when the stems reach 20-40 cm. 5-10 (depending on the variety) strong shoots are left in the bush. For better air circulation, first remove unproductive stems in the inner part of the bush.

Instead of such thinning, you can cut off excess growth buds in the fall. As a result of this procedure, nutrition in the spring will flow to the remaining buds, which will develop at an accelerated pace. If the shoots are removed with the heel (a piece of rhizome), then they can be used as cuttings for propagating larkspur.

In order not to stimulate the growth of new shoots in this year and not thereby weaken the plant before wintering; in summer, the inflorescences on the shoots are cut off as they fade. In the fall, after the plant has flowered and its leaves have dried, the stems are cut off completely at a height of 30 cm from the ground. If you cut them shorter, the likelihood of root rot increases - delphinium stems have a hollow structure and after pruning in the spring, melt water easily flows down them to the rhizome. To prevent this, experienced gardeners cover the top of the cut with clay.

delphinium garter

Delphinium has its own Achilles heel - this is the junction of the stem and rhizome, which easily breaks in strong winds. Therefore, as the bush grows, it is tied up in 2 places: at a height of 0.4-0.5 m and 1-1.2 m. Varieties with heavy inflorescences are also tied in the middle part (0.7-0.8 m). Rings on racks work well as support.

Preparing delphinium for winter

Delphiniums easily endure winter, withstanding frosts down to -40°C under the snow. But the alternation of thaws and frosts has a detrimental effect on this crop - its root system is located close to the surface of the earth and easily rots out. In the absence of snow cover, delphinium bushes can be covered with spruce branches or non-woven covering material.

Delphinium perennial: feeding

During the entire growing season, delphiniums are fed three times.

The first feeding is carried out in early spring, when the shoots have reached 15-20 cm in height: per 1 sq.m. you will need 10-15g of ammonium nitrate, 20-30g of potassium chloride and 30-40g of ammonium sulfate. Fertilizers are mixed and scattered around the delphinium bushes. Instead of these fertilizers, you can use mullein infusion (1:10) as a source of nitrogen - 1 bucket for 5 adult bushes. When forming buds, plants need potassium, but the nitrogen content should be reduced.

During the second feeding per 1 sq. m of soil, the dose of superphosphate and potassium is doubled compared to the first application.

For the third time (at the end or after flowering), only phosphorus-potassium fertilizers with microelements without nitrogen are applied to the spur bushes.

Delphinium: pests and diseases

Delphiniums are especially strongly affected by various diseases when unfavorable conditions weather: prolonged rains, prolonged drought. Therefore, the fight against pests and pathogens begins at the first signs of their appearance.

The palm in terms of prevalence is taken by powdery mildew. It progresses rapidly with high humidity And low temperatures air. Its signs are a powdery whitish coating on the leaves, which subsequently turns brown. To combat this disease, plants are sprayed with fungicidal preparations ( copper sulfate, colloidal sulfur, Fundazol, ProfitGold, Topaz, Fitosporin-M).

Another common disease of fungal etiology is ramulariasis. It is characterized by the appearance large number brown spots on delphinium leaves. With further development of the disease, the spots become light gray with a dark rim along the edges and merge, forming extensive necrotic areas on the foliage. As a result, the leaves die prematurely and the plant is depressed. The spores of the pathogen overwinter on plant debris, so they must be collected and burned.

If various black spots appear on the delphinium bushes, then these are signs of a bacterial disease - black spot. The spots form first on the lower tiers of leaves, gradually “rising” up the plant. The stems of the larkspur turn brown and dry out. Early treatment will help save the plant. It is sprayed three times with copper-containing preparations: Oxychom, Bordeaux mixture, Previkur, Fundazol, Topaz. Between treatments, the ground under the bushes can be shed with a solution of Fitosporin-M, and the above-ground part of the plant with Baikal-M.

Of the viral diseases on delphinium, it is often found ring spot, which looks like yellowish spots in the shape of irregular rings. Leaves become chlorotic. This disease cannot be treated, so the diseased plant is removed and burned. The carrier of ringspot is aphids. To combat it, insecticides are used (Iskra, Fitoverm, Inta-vir, karbofos, biotlin, etc.).

Another malicious pest of this crop is delphinium fly, which lays eggs in buds. After hatching, the larvae damage the flowers by feeding on the stamens and pistils. Damaged flowers fall off prematurely and do not bear fruit.

WHERE TO BUY DELPHINIUM SEEDS

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