Wooden floor in a private house. Do-it-yourself concrete floor in a private house: tools for creating a floor, step-by-step instructions

The process of constructing a private wooden house consists of several stages, one of which is related to the construction of the floor structure. Its type is chosen at the design stage of the structure and many factors are taken into account. About what kind of floors there are wooden house, and the features of their designs will be discussed in this article.

The floor on the first floor in a wooden house, when there is an unheated basement, has its own characteristics. In this regard, several types of structures can be distinguished:

1. Cold floor construction, installed on an earthen base (without underground). The installation of this type of cold floor is possible only if there is dry soil under the building and a high location of the floors of the lower floor, under which a layer of compacted sand is laid. Another layer of clean, calcined, dry sand is poured on top of it. Logs made of coniferous timber with a thickness of more than 150 mm are buried in the formed soil base and rest against special recesses in the walls of the house. On top there is a single plank flooring, the thickness of which is from 30 to 40 mm.

2. Warm floors with a cold underground are recommended in areas where there is high level groundwater. This design is arranged as follows:

cleaned sand in a layer of 10 - 15 cm is laid on the ground in the underground and compacted;
install supports with a height of at least 50 cm. To do this, you can fill concrete mortar into vertically buried pipes with a metal frame of the required height;
a double layer of waterproofing material and wooden dies 3 cm thick are laid on top of the supports;
load-bearing beams are laid.

To install thermal insulation, it is necessary to install a subfloor laid on slats nailed to the ends of the joists. For flooring, cut unedged boards are used. Then a layer of vapor barrier and insulation are laid. After this, a plank covering is laid over the beams.

3. The installation of a cold floor with a warm subfloor is recommended where the soil has low level soil water. In the same way as in the previously described method, the structure is installed, but the stage of installing a subfloor with insulation is skipped and a clean floor is installed.

What should a wooden house be like?

The floor in a wooden house should be strong, durable, warm and smooth, with an aesthetic appearance.

When performing work on installing a floor in a wooden house independently, take into account the above requirements, and also determine the procedure for performing the upcoming work, take into account the characteristics of the building’s structures and individual characteristics operation of the house. First we need to consider different variants floors that can be installed in a wooden house, study their pros and cons and, taking into account operating conditions, choose suitable option.

An important criterion that the floor must meet is its evenness. Regardless of the flooring material, it must meet sanitary, hygienic, structural, operational and aesthetic requirements.

Types of floors

Floors in wooden houses are made of wood or concrete - the most common building materials. The technology of installing a “warm floor system” can also be implemented.

Now there are several types of “warm floors” on the construction market. They differ in the type of coolant and operating efficiency. We'll tell you in our article.

Concrete floor

A popular way to obtain a level base in a relatively short time is to pour concrete screed. While it may take a month for the screed to dry completely, installing a new wooden one will take longer.

The advantages of concrete floors are as follows:

A significant reduction in the cost of the finishing coating device.
After the screed has dried, a flat base is obtained, but which can be laid with any finishing material.
With an initially high-quality screed, additional leveling before final stage work may not be necessary, which will save time, physical strength and material costs.
The screed can be installed independently, without the involvement of specialists.

You will learn how to install a concrete floor in a private house yourself in two main options - on the ground and on the floors.

Disadvantages include heavy weight monolithic design floor and, as a result, an increase in the load on the foundation. That's why necessary calculations foundations are carried out at the design stage of the house. Another nuance is that when the walls vibrate, the screed may crack, which will lead to heat loss. Therefore, when installing a heated floor, it is necessary to perform high-quality thermal insulation of the base.

Wooden floor

Another common material for flooring in a wooden house is natural wood. Its advantages include the following:

Environmentally friendly material with a rich natural pattern.
Wood is safe because it does not contain harmful additives, it is completely natural and does not release harmful toxins into the environment.
Aesthetic appearance And organic combination wood with the rest of the building surfaces, while the concrete floor will not look natural.
When installing a wooden floor, you can refuse other finishing materials. With the help of varnishes, oils, stains and other impregnations, a finished wooden base can become stronger, more durable and acquire an original, noble appearance.
Wood is very durable and, depending on the species, you can choose a material with certain performance properties and texture.

The undeniable quality of natural wood gives an atmosphere of warmth and comfort, creates an optimal microclimate and comfort in the home.

Important! The wooden floor is repairable. For current repairs its fragment will not require dismantling the entire flooring; you can replace a separate fragment. This will require a minimum set of tools and construction skills.

Among the disadvantages of a wooden floor are noted high cost material and labor costs during its installation. In addition, it can be quite difficult to obtain a perfectly level base.

Which is better - concrete or wood?

At the design stage of a private house, you must immediately decide what the floor will be - wooden or concrete. To choose the most suitable option, you need to know what the difference is between these floors.

Price

To fill a screed 5 cm thick, you will need 0.5 bags of cement (300 rubles/bag) and 1.5 (50 rubles/bag) bags of sand. Thus, 1 m 2 screeds will cost an average of 225 rubles. If the work will be performed by a hired person, then the cost of the work must be added to this amount - 250 rubles / m 2.

If we take dry timber 10 x 10 cm as a basis, in increments of 40 cm (400 rubles / m 2) and OSB boards(600 rub./m2) 18 mm thick. With the work of a carpenter, the cost will be 1250 rubles/m2.

Communications

In modern houses, the heating, water supply and sewerage systems are laid inside the floor structure. In the event of a pipe break, wooden ones can be quickly sawed and access to communications can be gained. WITH concrete floors more difficult - to remove the screed you will have to use professional tool, and the process itself will take a lot of time and effort.

Deadlines

The screed gains full strength within 28 days from the date of pouring. Moreover, it gains 70% of its strength in the first week. All this time, the solution gives off moisture and nothing can be laid on it.

Wooden floors can be used immediately after installation.

Durability

If the wooden floor is not installed professional craftsman, then after a couple of weeks you can hear a characteristic creaking sound when walking on the floor. Concrete screed does not have this drawback. Moreover, when work is performed by hired workers, the result and quality of their work can be assessed immediately.

Weight

The weight of 1 m 2 OSB sheet with a thickness of 18 mm is 12 kg, logs per 1 m 2 weigh about 25 kg, depending on the type of wood. Thus, 1 m2 of wooden floor will weigh about 40 kg. And 1 m 2 ties with a thickness of 5 cm weighs 100 kg.

The process of constructing floors on pillars

When constructing such a floor, the following procedure must be followed:

Prepare the base. To do this, marking and excavation of soil with a plant layer is carried out. The resulting depression is filled with crushed stone and sand on top, which is then compacted.
Then the brick support pillars are installed, taking into account the basic design requirements regarding the height of the finished floor and the structure below it.
It is mandatory to take into account the ratio of the height of the support column and the section of the brick. So, with a support height of 25 cm and above, the recommended width of the support column is equal to two bricks.
It is necessary to start installing supports first along the perimeter of the future room, and then within the specified boundaries.
I lay two layers of roofing material on the upper plane of each column to ensure waterproofing of the structure.
Then the wooden linings are fixed. Logs made of logs or timber are installed on them. The width of the step of their location relative to each other is chosen depending on the width of the floor boards to be laid.
Slag backfill, the height of which does not reach the log by 5 cm, is used to prevent the mobility of the floor structure in the cold season when the soil freezes. The remaining free space provides ventilation to the structure.

Laying the floor on top installed logs is done using boards, which begin to be laid at a distance of 1.5 cm from the wall. The resulting gap performs a ventilation function, which is very important for the correct and long-term operation of a natural wood floor.

The boards are attached to the joists using long nails driven at an angle of 45 degrees. While the wood is not completely dry, install temporary skirting boards.

Single layer floor

The single floor structure can be placed on poles, as described above. Only on top of the supports are beams placed, on top of which the flooring is made of tongue-and-groove boards.

The second option is to install the floor along beams embedded in the body of the load-bearing enclosing structures of the building. Beams serve as the basis for the floor, and brick supports are no longer required.

Due to the large free distance between the beams, the fastening of the flooring from the boards is carried out along the sheathing:

The sheathing is made of timber with a square section of 5-6 cm.
The pitch of the timber in the sheathing depends on the thickness of the floor board. The thinner the board, the less distance between the lags.
During the installation of the sheathing, it is important to control its horizontal position so that the end result is an even plank covering.
Fastening the boards begins after all the logs are installed in their places and securely fixed with nails.
If it is not planned to lay additional flooring on top decorative covering– laminate, tile, linoleum, then it is finished.
After the single decking is installed, it is covered with two layers of protective varnish.

Advice. If the flooring is rough, then you can use an unedged board to construct it.

When making a single floor, no serious professional skills, serious temporary and financial costs. But its disadvantage is low thermal insulation properties.

TO optimal solution When arranging a floor in a wooden house, a two-layer structure is used, consisting of a rough and finishing layer. Installation of such a structure occurs in the following way:

The subfloor is assembled from unedged boards up to 4.5 cm thick, treated with an antiseptic composition. In this case, preference should be given to wood coniferous species– it is durable, resistant to moisture, dampness and rotting.
The boards are laid close to each other, and a layer of thermal insulation made of mineral wool, polystyrene foam, expanded clay or sawdust is laid on top.
In addition to insulation, it is necessary to steam and waterproof the structure to extend its service life.
The finished floor boards are laid as for other types of structures, leaving a gap of 1.5 cm between them with the subfloor.

A clean floor can serve a function finishing coating or serve as a basis for laying decorative flooring, which will not only decorate the room, but also increase the thermal insulation properties of the floor.

Start of work - installation of the subfloor

A subfloor when installing plank flooring is necessary for several reasons:

To increase the operational life of the structure due to the presence of high-quality floor ventilation.
It performs a function solid foundation for laying insulation and finished floors.
Makes the frame of the building more rigid.

Before starting work on the installation of the rough structure, check the following:

The wood chosen as the material for the construction of the subfloor must have an optimal level of humidity - this will eliminate possible deformation of the structure during its subsequent use.
The boards should not have obvious defects.
If an inexpensive board can be used for the subfloor, then for the finished floor it is purchased with a reserve, so that later you do not have to look for material of the same shade.

Preparation

Installation of the subfloor can be carried out both on the ground and on the floors. In any case, it is necessary to carry out a set of preparatory measures:

The walls of the building must be equipped with ventilation windows, closed from the outside with special grilles.
All wooden parts are treated with antiseptic compounds to increase the service life of the structure.
Taking into account the size of the room in which the floor will be installed, calculate the required amount of material.
Throughout all work, it is important to monitor the horizontal position of the floor structure to prevent the formation of a slope.
Timber and logs are subject to processing, in which they are cut to eliminate slopes and bevels.

Laying the subfloor

To ensure that the floor does not creak, does not vibrate, is smooth and warm, it is necessary to pay special attention to the laying of the subfloor and, first of all, to the joists.

The logs should be suspended on the beam supports in increments of 60 cm - insulation will be laid in the gap formed. It is not worth saving on beams in order to avoid sagging and vibration of the floor during operation.

Where heavy equipment, such as a stove or fireplace, will subsequently be installed, the floor is reinforced by placing beams in 30 cm increments.

Fastenings in such places are also further reinforced.

At the bottom, beams are nailed across the beams. Between floors, beams are nailed along the beams - this will save the height of the room and, if necessary, use top beams as decorative element in the interior after their additional finishing.

In the gap, an OSB sheet is laid on the beams.

After this, mineral wool slabs are laid in a checkerboard pattern, and on top there is a continuous layer of vapor barrier, which covers the logs and is fixed with a construction stapler. The vapor barrier seam is taped.

The second layer of vapor barrier is laid overlapping, and a ventilation gap is formed on top. To do this, use a 40 x 100 mm block, screwed to the floor joists. The finishing floor will be installed on top of these bars.

Important! All wooden elements must be treated with antiseptic compounds.

Video - Insulating a wooden floor

Finished floor installation

To obtain an aesthetically attractive and durable finished floor, it is recommended to use a milled board with a tongue-and-groove fastening.

Table 1. Instructions for laying finished floorboards

Illustration	Description
	The first board is laid with a groove against the wall, leaving an expansion gap.
	It must be secured with self-tapping screws so that you can later cover the attachment point with a plinth. There are 2 options for further fastening the boards.
	The first option uses self-tapping screws that are twice as long as the floorboard.
	Self-tapping screws are screwed into each joist in the center of the board. Subsequently, the caps can be masked using wood putty.
	Then take the next board and align the tenon with the groove.
	If necessary, the boards are adjusted by hitting them with a mallet through a block.
	Or they press it with a chisel.
	The second fastening option involves screwing self-tapping screws at an angle of 45 degrees into the tenon. To prevent the board from bursting, you must first drill a hole for the screw.
	With this option, the boards fit closer to each other, and the fastening elements are invisible.

After all the boards are laid, their surface is sanded and coated with wear-resistant varnish in several layers.

Concrete floor in a wooden house

The most common way to install a concrete floor in a wooden house is to pour it over the ground, but with the obligatory condition that the ground must be dry.

Stage 1 – preparation

Preparatory work includes the following steps:

Using a level, determine the main indicators and calculate the excavation work.
To prevent soil subsidence and cracking of the concrete floor in the future, the soil is carefully compacted using special devices.
A well-compacted sand cushion is placed over the ground. The backfill will be denser if you pour material that exceeds the required volume by 25%, moisten it and compact it thoroughly using a roller or vibrator.
An expanded clay or gravel layer is laid on the sand.

Stage 2 - waterproofing

On next stage must be completed , so that it does not absorb moisture from the concrete screed, and it will also protect the floor from ground moisture. For this they use roll materials based on bitumen. You can use thick plastic film.

The waterproofing material is laid overlapping, extending it onto the wall by 20 cm, and then the joints are taped. It is important that the material is homogeneous and without damage.

An alternative method is the coating method, when mastic waterproofing is applied at the stage of pouring the subfloor.

Stage 3 - pouring the subfloor

The subfloor or technological floor serves as the basis for the hydro- and vapor barrier layer. For its production, concrete of class B7.5 - B10 and crushed stone of size 50-20 are used. There are no strict rules for pouring the rough layer, the main thing is that its thickness is about 50 mm, and the difference does not exceed 4 mm.

Stage 4 – vapor barrier and insulation

Lay on top of the subfloor vapor barrier material in the form of inexpensive membranes made of fiberglass or polyester. Durable material, not afraid of rotting, are PVC membranes. Insulation is laid over the vapor barrier - this can increase the energy efficiency of a living space by 20%. The following materials can be used as insulation:

Mineral wool, the density of which does not exceed 120 kg/m 3. To prevent it from accumulating cotton wool, it is insulated with polyethylene.
Where the floor is subject to heavy loads, it is recommended to use extruded polystyrene foam, which deforms when compressed and then returns to its original state.
When using polystyrene foam, it is covered with polyethylene on all sides to give strength.

Stage 5 – final screed

At the final stage, the final screed is performed, which will become the basis for the decorative flooring. It can be monolithic or dry. In the first case, pouring a solution with a coarse filler in the form of crushed stone, stones, small pebbles or a cement-sand composition ( quartz sand) is produced by lighthouses. Begin pouring the screed from the far corner of the room, leveling the solution using the rule. Complete drying of the screed occurs after 30 days.

An alternative is dry screed based on fiberboard, plywood and asbestos cement sheets, GKLV. The technology is simple and fast:

Line with plastic film.
A technological gap of 1 cm is left along the walls, into which soundproofing material is placed.
Sand backfill is 5 cm thick.
The sheet material is laid in two layers and securely fixed to each other using self-tapping screws or construction adhesive.
Perform puttying and sanding of joints.

Finishing materials

The material for finishing the floor in a wooden house is selected depending on the interior design. If the appearance of the house inside retains the color of natural wood, which on the walls and ceiling is not hidden behind other finishing, then flooring should be organically combined with it.

Table 2. Types of flooring

Illustration	Description
	In a wooden house the best solution the floor will be made of natural wood. It will organically fit into the interior with wooden wall paneling. Wood has low thermal conductivity, it is environmentally friendly and safe. Natural wood flooring is distinguished by a variety of textures and rich natural patterns.
	A beautiful and natural floor covering for a wooden house can be obtained by laying parquet made of natural wood, which has high aesthetics, a variety of shades and good performance.
	In rooms with high humidity– in the bathroom, shower bath, in the kitchen, as well as in the hallway, laying tiles will be a practical solution.
	An alternative material to expensive natural wood becomes a laminate, which has high strength, wear resistance and decorativeness. This material imitates many, even rare and very expensive types of wood.

Prices for popular types of block parquet

piece parquet

A wooden house is distinguished by a special atmosphere of home comfort and warmth, so natural materials look natural in its walls.

Natural products are considered quite relevant in use. Construction Materials. In this regard, wooden floors in a private house, being an environmentally friendly product, are used in many country buildings.

They are quite popular, as installation is quite simple and reliable. You can do the work yourself without the services of specialists. True, this will require a lot of effort and time. In addition, you will have to carefully study the nuances of their flooring technology.

Select an option

This question sooner or later arises before every owner planning to reconstruct or build their home from scratch.

You must first decide on how the floor will be installed in a private home.

Currently, the most popular flooring options are: wooden floors:

Located on logs (cuts) on the ground.
Installed on brick (concrete) pedestals.
Flooring on cement screed.

The advantage that has wooden floor in a private house in front of a concrete analogue, lies in the environmental friendliness of the material and good performance thermal insulation. The only drawback is the need for proper waterproofing. If this is not done, even the most reliable larch or beech floor will require replacement over time.

Of all the known flooring methods concrete base considered the most durable. But the material is very cold, so it is necessary to lay a wooden covering on top of it.

Construction and wood

Choose wood for the floor without flaws

As an example, we consider a system for laying wooden floors in a private house, located on the ground floor. For this situation, the coating is laid on the ground and consists of the following elements:

logs (cuts);
rough floors;
waterproofing;
thermal insulation;
finished floors;
finishing floor covering.

The structure is located on supporting pillars or beams made of cement mortar or brick. Under the floor there is a subfloor in which you can place communications, and also use this free space to store canned food, vegetables or other unnecessary things.

If the underground was thought out in advance, and the foundation was well insulated during its installation, it is possible to arrange a full-fledged basement floor.

This method of floor installation is considered the most common, since thanks to the subfloor, the space is well ventilated, the wood is always dry, and an optimal microclimate is created on the ground floor. Installation of a wooden floor directly on the ground is allowed only if the groundwater level has been taken into account.

Failure to comply with these requirements can lead to the formation of mold and mildew in the subfloor. In this case, special attention must be paid to waterproofing.

Selection of materials

For logs, choose resinous wood

Wooden floors in a private home are constantly subjected to heavy loads, so for their installation it is recommended to use only durable wood, and it is also necessary to choose materials that meet the following characteristics:

The service life of the floors will depend on what percentage of moisture the fiber has. Otherwise, you will have to carefully dry the boards and process them special compounds preventing the formation of mold.
It is recommended that the flooring in the house be made only from boards and timber that do not have cracks or chips. Failure to comply with this condition will lead to the need to repair the structure within a short period of time.
Treatment with fire-fighting compounds and antiseptics is required in any case.
Boards made of oak, ash and beech have the greatest strength. The disadvantage of materials made from such wood species is that they are too fragile and expensive. Therefore, the most common lumber is made from coniferous trees: pine, spruce, larch, cedar.

Underground

Don't forget the ventilation holes

When laying floors with your own hands, you should definitely think about making sure that the subfloor underneath has ventilation holes. If this is not done, the service life of the deck will be significantly reduced.

If the region in which the house is located experiences windy and snowy winters, a ventilation pipe with a canopy is installed as a barrier against blowing into the underground space.

To improve the quality of ventilation, you can make an additional window fan. A fine grid with a mesh size of more than 10 mm will serve as a barrier to mice and rats.

Posts or beams

The installation of floors in a private house begins with the installation of foundation columns. In most cases, these are brick laid or poured concrete structures. As an option, durable wood is used: oak, beech, ash, but their service life rarely exceeds 10 years. For more information about installing floors in a timber house, watch this video:

First you need to select the location of the columns. To do this you need to use a tape measure and lacing. The rope is stretched between the walls in the center of the room. Notes are made in the ground at intervals of 80–100 cm from each other. These are the locations of the pillars. Then you can be guided by the following rule: the distance from the posts depends on the thickness of the lag or cut. How larger beam, the greater the distance allowed.

To accurately determine the distance between the columns, it is recommended to use the table.

Once the installation locations have been determined, you can begin installing the poles. The most the best option Separate foundations will be poured under them, going 50–100 cm deep.

Their height should exceed the ground level by 5 - 10 cm, after which a layer of waterproofing is laid and the main element is mounted. The average width depends on the height of the structure and ranges from 40 to 50 cm.

To avoid leveling the floor and make your work easier, you need to take care of the correct horizontal level even at the stage of preparing the base for the posts and monitor its compliance throughout the entire installation process.

Installation of logs (cuts)

Waterproofing is placed under wooden joists

Before making wooden floors in a private house, you need to lay them on pillars aligned at the same height. wooden beam, on which the floorboards will be laid in the future. Waterproofing must be placed on the stone surface; for this purpose, roofing felt can be used.

A beam is laid on top, which must be fixed to the base of the pillars. To do this, you can use metal plates or corners, which are attached using anchors, screws or nails. After the cuts are laid and secured, they need to be treated with an antiseptic.

If the horizontal was not maintained, the plane is leveled by placing wooden wedges under the beam.

Installation of floorboards

Depending on the chosen method of how the flooring will be installed in a private house, the procedure further work may differ significantly. The simplest is to install a single floor.

To make a double wooden covering with insulation placed inside, you will need to spend much more time and consumables.

Single

After the cuts are fixed, tongue-and-groove boards 4–5 cm thick are laid on them. Fixation to the beam is carried out using self-tapping screws or nails. Having completed the installation, it is allowed to lay the floor covering or paint the constructed floor.

Mostly a single floor is installed for a country summer house, which is used only in warm weather.

Double with insulation

If the floor is being laid for a house in which you will live permanently, it is recommended to use a double floor with thermal insulation in between. This technology will require more time and money, but the result will not keep you waiting long. The floor will be much warmer, and living in the house will be more comfortable. For more information about installing a wooden floor, watch this video:

The installation procedure is as follows:

When installing rough wooden floors in a private house, you need to leave a gap of 2 - 3 cm from the end board to the wall. This is necessary for the temperature shift of the wood and will help to avoid possible swelling of the surface.

Wood is considered natural and environmentally friendly pure material requiring mandatory care. Despite the superficial complexity of flooring for a private home, even a person who does not have sufficient multifaceted experience in this field can perform this work.

A wooden floor on joists makes it possible to avoid without use reinforced concrete floor or installation of another concrete base, the cost of construction of which is quite high.

Effective ventilation of wood on joists in a private house - necessary and required condition reliability and durability of the structure.

Wooden floor on posts along joists

The figure shows a design option for a wooden floor on joists in a private house with an underground space.

The space under the floor is formed by the fact that the logs are laid on fairly high columns of brick or concrete blocks. This design allows you to raise the floor level of the first floor with a minimum volume of backfilling the basement space with soil.

Here the basement and basement space under the floor are outside, outside the thermal envelope of the house, and will be cold.

To ventilate the underground space, vents are made in opposite external walls, above ground level - through holes closed metal mesh for protection against rodents. The same openings should be in the internal load-bearing walls.

Air movement under the floor occurs mainly due to wind pressure.

In winter, there is a danger of soil freezing in the underground space, which can lead to heaving soils causing the floor to move relative to the walls.

To prevent freezing, it is recommended to close the vents for the winter and insulate the base.
However, deterioration of ventilation as a result of closing the vents leads to the accumulation of moisture in the insulation and wooden parts - to a decrease in thermal resistance and the durability of these elements.

It must be said that such a device for underground space has been used in private construction for a long time. The design was not originally designed for the use of effective floor insulation.

In houses with weak floor insulation in winter, part of the heat from the room penetrated into the underground space and warmed it, preventing freezing, but increasing heat loss.

Modern floor insulation practically blocks the flow of heat into the subfloor from the premises.Freezing of the subfloor can only be prevented by saving ground heat.

At modern requirements To save energy, a cold underground ventilated through vents is not the best option. It is still used rather by inertia.

Scheme of effective underground ventilation in the basement of a private house through exhaust duct

To ventilate the subfloor of a private house or cottage, it is beneficial to use effective ventilation through an exhaust duct. This ventilation scheme is the only the right option for a house with an insulated base or basement.

How to make a wooden floor on posts

In old books and regulatory documents In construction, you can find floor designs on posts using NOT effective heat-waterproofing materials.

Modern floors on joists in a private house do this

Support columns are laid out from ceramic bricks or concrete blocks. The distance between adjacent columns along the log (span) is recommended to be no more than 2 m. The base of the column can be a layer of compacted crushed stone with a thickness of 50-100 mm, spilled with bitumen mastic. Or, instead of mastic, a waterproofing film is used.

The top of the columns is leveled to one level with a solution. If the solution thickness is more than 3 cm. drowned in solution masonry mesh. The top of the posts is covered with a sheet of waterproofing material.

Place on a layer of waterproofing wooden beams-lags. The distance between adjacent joist beams (lag pitch) is determined by their cross-section, as well as bearing capacity and the rigidity of the overlying layers of the floor - sheathing, subfloor, finishing coating. Usually they take a step convenient for laying between joists standard slabs mineral wool insulation, about 600 mm.

For the above-mentioned lag pitch and span between the columns, taking into account the thickness of the insulation and sheathing, with normal floor loads, the lag cross-section is sufficiently 100-150x50 mm. A galvanized steel mesh is attached to the bottom of the logs lying on the posts. Instead of a mesh, you can nail boards or slats with a thickness of at least 20 mm.

A windproof, highly vapor-permeable film is laid on top of the mesh (boards) and logs.

This film prevents makes it difficult to carry away insulation particles by air flow (dust formation), but does not prevent the evaporation of moisture from the insulation and wooden parts.

A sheet of windproof, vapor-permeable film is laid on top, across the joists, and lowered on both sides of each joist until it stops. steel mesh so that a tray is formed between the joists. The film is stapled to each side of all joists.

Mineral wool insulation is laid in the formed channel between the joists on the windproof film. You can do without a windproof film if you use special insulation boards with a compacted windproof layer for the bottom layer.

How to determine the thickness of floor insulation

The thickness of the floor insulation is selected according to calculation, providing standard heat transfer resistance R = 4-5 m 2 o K/W. If the base is not insulated, then the thickness of the floor insulation is determined from the condition that the temperature of the space under the floor is equal to the temperature of the outside air. The recommended thickness of mineral wool insulation in this case is no less than 150-200 mm.

For a house with an insulated foundation and plinth, the thickness of the floor insulation can be reduced so that the sum of the heat transfer resistance of the plinth + floor is no less than the standard (see above).

How to calculate the thickness of floor (floor) thermal insulation

A sheathing of bars with a thickness of at least 50 mm is laid across the joists. Another layer of insulation is placed between the sheathing bars. This two-layer insulation design ensures that the insulation covers the cold bridges through the joists. The distance between the sheathing bars is chosen in the range of 300-600 mm., a multiple of the width of the subfloor covering slabs.

This two-layer construction of the floor base (joists + sheathing bars) allows you to conveniently place both insulation boards and floor covering slabs (CBF, plywood, etc.).

The insulation with the lathing on top is covered with a vapor barrier film. The joints of the film panels are sealed. The junctions of the film to the walls are connected to the waterproofing of the walls and the same is sealed.

It is recommended to choose the thickness of the sheathing bars at 25-30 mm. greater than the thickness of the top layer of insulation. This will allow, by lowering the film on both sides of each sheathing bar, to create a ventilated gap between the vapor barrier film and the floor covering.

Vapor and thermal insulation with penofol

Instead of the top layer of insulation and vapor barrier film, it is more profitable to lay penofol - a foamed polymer covered with aluminum foil, 10 mm thick. mm. (also available under other trade names).

Penofol must be laid with the aluminized side up, towards the ventilated gap, across the sheathing bars and lowered on both sides of each bar. After this, penofol is nailed to each side of all the bars with a stapler so that a gap of 3-4 is formed between the aluminized surface and the floor slabs cm.. The joints of the penofol panels are sealed with aluminized adhesive tape. A layer of penofol will provide heat transfer resistance equivalent to a layer of mineral wool with a thickness of 40 mm., and the necessary vapor impermeability.

Subfloor boards are attached to the sheathing bars on top of a vapor-proof film or penofol. Instead of boards, slabs are more often used: cement-bonded particle boards(thickness > 22 mm.), plywood (> 18 mm.), etc. Sheets and slabs are placed with the long side on the sheathing bars. Spacers are secured under the short side between the sheathing bars. All edges of the laid sheet must be supported - a block or spacer.

The use of polystyrene foam and polystyrene foam boards as insulation is not recommended. Such slabs serve as a barrier to moisture, which is always contained in the wood of the floor. By preventing moisture from escaping from the wood, foam insulation shortens the service life of the wooden floor parts. In addition, mineral wool insulation, due to its better elasticity, adheres more tightly to the joists than polystyrene foam.

To protect the underground space from ground moisture, it is advisable to cover the entire surface of the soil with a waterproofing film (and not just under the posts, as in the figure). The joints of the covering panels are sealed. The junction of the film to the walls must be connected to the waterproofing of the walls and also sealed. The floor posts lie directly on the film.

As a result, we obtain a ventilated underground space, limited by sealed shells - on top (vapor barrier) and below (waterproofing).

Such an underground space protects the house not only from moisture and cold, but also from penetration into living spaces.

Floor with joists on intermediate walls

IN modern designs On the floors, joists are located at a short distance from each other, which makes it possible to use lumber of a smaller cross-section, and therefore cost, and also conveniently place insulation boards.

Instead of brick pillars It can be advantageous to rest the logs on intermediate walls laid across the logs at intervals of about 2 m. Bricks or blocks in the wall are laid using the honeycomb masonry method, half a brick thick, leaving increased gaps of 1/4 brick in the vertical joints for ventilation of the underground space. If the wall has a height of more than 0.4 m., then no less than every 2 m. length of the wall, lay out pilasters - brick-thick columns to increase the stability of the wall.

If the lag step is no more than 600 mm. and span less than 2 m., then the cross-section of the wooden log is enough to be 100x50 mm.

Wooden floor on the ground on joists

Another option for a wooden floor along joists in a private house is shown in the following figure:

Here, unlike the first option, the floor level is raised to the required height by filling the base with compacted soil.

Ventilation of the floor is carried out due to the movement of air under the influence of the draft of the ventilation duct.

Warm air is taken from the room and enters the space between the joists through the ventilation holes in the baseboards and the gap between the subfloor covering and the wall. Next, the air enters ventilation duct.

To ensure ventilation of the underground space, baseboards with holes are used or baseboards are installed with a gap between them and the walls.

In order for the air to move more or less evenly under the entire surface of the floor, the gap for air passage is made of different widths - the farther from the ventilation duct, the wider the gap (2 cm.). Near the ventilation duct, no holes are made in the baseboards or gaps between the wall and the floor covering (or the gap is sealed with tape).

It is important to understand that in this ventilation option, unlike the first, the underground space is located inside the heat-protective shell of the house and must be warm. The outer shell of the subfloor must have a heat transfer resistance no less than the wall of the house. Otherwise, the flow of warm air from the room may lead to condensation on the subfloor parts.

Make the layer of bulk soil thicker than 600 mm. Not recommended. Pour the soil and carefully compact it in layers no more than 200 thick. mm. Compact the fill soil until natural soil still fails. Therefore, the soil will settle over time. A thick layer of fill soil can cause the floor to settle too much and unevenly.

The waterproofing film is laid on a leveling layer of sand with a thickness of at least 30 mm. The joints of the film panels are sealed. The junctions of the film to the walls must be connected to the waterproofing of the wall and also sealed.

Thermal insulation is laid on top of the waterproofing.

In this option, it is better to use polymer insulation boards - polystyrene foam (expanded polystyrene). The thickness of the insulation is 50-100 mm., since the ground temperature under the house is always positive.

If the walls and basement of the house are not insulated, then along the external walls a width of at least 800 mm. a thicker layer of insulation should be laid, 150 - 200 mm.

In a house with multi-layer external walls with insulation on the outside, to eliminate the cold bridge bypassing the insulation of the walls and floor, the outside must be insulated(see picture in the first part of the article).

The floor joists rest on low pads made of brick or concrete blocks.

If extruded polystyrene foam boards (XPS, penoplex, etc.) are used as thermal insulation, then the logs can be laid on pads cut from these boards.

Between thermal insulation and wooden joists the floor should provide a gap of 3-5 cm. for free air movement.

By building regulations There is one limitation on the floor arrangement. Since the space under the floor is ventilated through an exhaust duct natural ventilation, then it is prohibited fine coating make floors from combustible materials: from boards, parquet boards and shields, etc. Or a non-combustible base should be provided under them, for example a prefabricated screed made of plasterboard, gypsum fiber sheets or a subfloor made of cement bonded particle boards.

In this option, the joists and other floor elements are in better humidity conditions than in the first case.

In this design, the ventilation duct serves to ventilate not only the subfloor, but also the rooms of the house. About what needs to be done to save heat emitted by the ventilation system,

Floors, soils and foundations

Ground floors are not connected to the foundation and rest directly on the ground under the house. If it is heaving, then the floor can “go on a spree” under the influence of forces in winter and spring. To prevent this from happening, the heaving soil under the house must be made not to heave. The easiest way to do this is the underground part

The design of pile foundations on bored (including TISE) and screw piles involves the installation of a cold base. Insulating the soil under a house with such foundations is a rather problematic and expensive task. Floors on the ground in the house pile foundation can be recommended only for non-heaving or slightly heaving soils on the site.

When building a house on heaving soils, it is necessary to have an underground part of the foundation to a depth of 0.5 - 1 m.

When you start building a house, the question of flooring arises Firstly, since both the strength of the coating and the preservation of heat in the rooms, and therefore the health of the residents, will depend on them. Flooring in a private home can be installed in several ways, but you need to consider each of them in order to evaluate the pros and cons of each option.

Wooden flooring has always been considered the most popular and comfortable floor for a home, since wood, unlike concrete, is itself a warm material.
Concrete coatings are more durable compared to wood, but require good insulation, which is why they are often combined with wooden floors.
Loose or floating floors weren't as popular with homeowners in the past, but Lately many are increasingly turning to this option, as it is simple to set up and can be done literally in one day.

Whichever gender is chosen, it has specific features your device, depending on the design of the house, the area on which it should be placed, the difficulties and nuances of installation, and even the financial capabilities of the homeowners.

In order for the floor in a private house to be warm and pleasant to walk on, each of its types requires insulation, so it is definitely included in the plan general works arrangement.

Wood floors can be made different ways, but they are always secured to logs, which are made from beams laid on a concrete base, support pillars, or embedded in the walls of the house. The latter option is only possible in a room with a small area, for example, narrow corridor or a small hallway.

In addition, wooden floors are divided into single-layer and two-layer, i.e. with subfloor.

Pole-supported floors

Floors on supporting pillars are made in cases where it is not possible to connect the logs to the walls of the house or this is not enough for the strength of the overall covering. A log system installed only on support pillars is called “floating”.

"Floating" floor on supporting pillars

Floors using this system are arranged as follows:

The first thing to do is to dig holes in the underground space of the house for installation brick pillars. Such mini-pits are marked at a distance of 70-100 centimeters from each other. The depth of the pits should be at least fifty centimeters. The size of the section will depend on the height of the supports being erected; the higher the pillar should be, the greater its width and thickness.
Crushed stone, gravel or sand, at least twenty centimeters thick, is poured into the bottom of the dug holes, then filled with water and thoroughly compacted. The better the bottom is compacted, the more reliable the support for the joist system will be, so this process must be carried out conscientiously.
Red brick pillars are laid on the compacted cushion, or formwork is arranged, reinforcement is installed, and a cement-gravel mixture is poured. If the pillars are made of concrete, then their cross-sectional size should be at least 40×40, and preferably 50×50 cm. The erected pillars are checked for level, and, if necessary, their height is adjusted.
On top of the pillars, to a depth of 10-15 centimeters, threaded rods are embedded or anchors are installed, onto which the floor beams will subsequently be attached.
It should be noted that if a building or room has small area, then support pillars can only be installed along the perimeter of the future room, but in this case it is necessary to lay massive beams on them.
After the pillars are ready, waterproofing material is laid on their upper part. It is better if it is three or four layers of roofing material.
Holes are drilled in the beams through which the mounting pins will pass.
Beams made of timber or logs are laid on the waterproofing, they are put on studs and leveled, leveled using wooden boards. When the base of the floor is laid, it is better to fix the pads to the bars using nails, and the beams themselves also need to be secured by screwing them to the posts with nuts through a wide washer. If the studs have excess height, it is cut off with a grinder.
It is best to pour expanded clay onto the surface of the underground in a layer of 15-20 centimeters - it will well retain moisture that can come from the ground and additionally insulate the floors.
In order for the floor installed in this way to be warm, it is better to make it two-layer, especially since in this embodiment all the conditions have been created for this. If you plan to immediately lay a floorboard on the beams, then the underground must be completely filled with expanded clay, leaving between it and wood covering distance no more than ten centimeters.

Subfloor

The subfloor can be constructed in several ways. The choice of a specific method will depend on the insulation material.

If slag or expanded clay is used as insulation, then the subfloor is made solid, from boards that are nailed to the bottom cut of the beams. The cracks between the boards are coated with clay diluted to a not very thick state. After the clay has dried, insulation can be poured into the cells, on top of which a vapor barrier film is laid.
If the floors will be insulated mineral wool, then the boards are nailed to the bottom side of the beams at a distance of 50 centimeters from each other.

A vapor barrier is attached to the beams and bottom boards and thin plywood is laid. Insulation is laid on it, which is also covered with a vapor barrier on top, attached to the beams using a stapler and staples.

Then logs measuring 10 × 3 centimeters are nailed onto the beams, on which floorboards or thick plywood will be laid.

Video: a visual example of installing a subfloor

Wooden floor on the ground

A wooden floor is also installed on the ground. There is a scheme for this, focusing on which you can draw up a work plan.

The soil in the underground must be compacted well, and a cushion of sand, gravel or medium-fraction crushed stone, 20 to 40 centimeters thick, placed on top of it, and then compacted again.
Rigid waterproofing, for example, roofing felt, is laid on the compacted cushion. If desired, you can lay reinforcement mesh under it for greater strength. Waterproofing should extend to the walls at least 10 centimeters.
For waterproofing, lay bricks or concrete blocks, which will subsequently become a support for the beams. The supports are placed in such a way that the beams are at a distance of 60 centimeters from each other ( standard width insulation).
The first layer of insulation is laid around the bricks - this can be 50÷100 mm polystyrene foam or mineral wool.
Wooden beams are installed on bricks, or better yet, on concrete blocks, leveled, and secured with a corner.
Between laid beams, for more insulation, you can additionally lay mineral wool slabs.
Insulation on top, cash yeah secure vapor barrier film.
Then lay the floorboard, which is secured with nails carefully driven into its side.
The board is laid at a distance one - one and a half centimeters from the wall to ensure ventilation.

Wooden floor on concrete screed

When installing the floor on concrete screed or slab, the logs can be laid directly on the concrete or, if you need to raise the floors to small height 10-20 centimeters, on threaded studs.

When laying floors on concrete, you cannot skimp on joists - they must be quite massive, then the floors will be reliable and non-creaky.

It should be immediately noted that with such a floor arrangement, it is imperative to make it two-layer, i.e. with the subfloor described above, otherwise it will be very cold.

First on concrete covering Preliminary marking of the location of the logs is made. They should be installed at a distance of 60 centimeters, taking into account future insulation. Marking is done by marking a line with color.
Next, marks are made on the broken lines at a distance of 30-40 centimeters.
At these points, holes are drilled into which studs are installed with clamps located at approximately the same height from the floor - they will hold the beams.
Holes are drilled in the beams themselves at a measured distance corresponding to the location of the studs mounted into the surface of the concrete, after which the beam is placed on the studs.
Then, using a level, tighten the clamps in one direction or the other, bringing all the beams to an ideal horizontal level, controlling it with a level.
The nuts are tightened on top of the studs, driving them into the prepared recess, and the excess part of the studs is cut off with a grinder.
The next steps are the installation of the subfloor, insulation and laying of the finished floor.

Fastening the joists directly to the screed

Place joists on the concrete floor not difficult at all, and you can do it yourself if you have the right tools.

Strips are struck on the concrete surface, also at a distance of 60 centimeters from each other, but from the wall they should be at a distance of the thickness of the insulation (150-200 mm).
Then, using anchors, the logs are securely installed on the concrete floor. In this case, the beams can be of any height - this will depend on the desire of the owner of the house and on the ability to raise the floors to the desired height.
Then, it would be a good idea to lay thin insulation, for example, polyethylene foam, which can be secured to the joists using staples.
All over the wall, all over strips cut from mineral wool mats are installed around the perimeter of the room.
Next, they are laid on the covered polyethylene. insulation boards material or expanded clay of fine or medium fraction is poured.

The top of the insulation must be covered with a vapor barrier film.

Next, a floorboard or thick plywood is laid, and a decorative coating can be laid on top.

Concrete floor

Concrete floors are also installed in different ways, but in general they are similar in technology, with minor deviations or additions.

Concrete coating is mainly done in houses with concrete or brick walls, and begin its construction after the walls are removed and the roof is covered.

If it is needed, upper layer The soil is selected in order to arrange a sand cushion in its place, which should be 10-15 centimeters. It needs to be compacted well by pouring water.
The next layer is crushed stone of the middle fraction, which also needs to be compacted. The thickness of its backfill should be at least 10 centimeters.
Next, a rough screed is arranged. It can be made insulated by adding expanded clay or foam chips to the solution. In addition, in this case the solution can be mixed not on sand, but on gravel. The screed is leveled and left to harden.
On the finished hardened rough screed you need to spread waterproofing, which should extend 15-20 centimeters onto the walls. For it, you can take roofing felt or ordinary thick polyethylene film - the main thing is that the material is laid hermetically, with overlaps glued.

Insulation - expanded clay - is poured onto the waterproofing, or high-density extruded polystyrene foam is laid, the thickness of which is chosen at the request of the house owner and depending on the climatic conditions of the region where the house is built.
A metal sheet is installed on top of the insulation reinforcement mesh, and then the finishing screed is poured, to which you can also add insulation material. To ensure that the screed is level and there are no differences in floor height in the room, it should be done according to those exhibited according to the construction beacon level.

If desired, such a coating can be made additional insulation. You can lay wooden floors on the finished screed, lay laminate linoleum or ceramic tiles. Nothing prevents you from organizing a “warm floor” system.

Dry screed floors

There is nothing complicated about installing floors using a dry screed - it is done much faster than a concrete or wooden floor. That is why in last years it is being used more and more often.

The main thing in its installation is a high-quality uniform bulk material. For such a floor, perlite, quartz or silica sand, slag or fine-grained expanded clay are used. These materials are not only convenient to use, but also perfectly perform the task of sound insulation and thermal insulation. If the bulk material is well distributed over the area of the room, it almost does not shrink, so if the work is done conscientiously, the bulk floors will last a long time.

Leveling the bulk mixture

To ensure that the floors keep their shape and the dry screed does not crumble, special bulkheads made of boards are installed.
Plates made of moisture-resistant GVP, plywood or other materials are laid on top of the dry screed. sheet materials. The most important thing is to set the first slab perfectly level - this is done using a level. The next slabs to be laid will be aligned with the first one. The laid material does not need to be pressed into the dry mixture, but should be moved very carefully along the surface. The evenness of laying sheets during all work is controlled using a level.
On gypsum fiber the sheets have folds with which they are connected to each other when laying them on a dry screed.
The sheets are stacked with an offset of half a sheet, similar to brickwork- this will increase the stability of the coating.
Having laid the first layer of slabs on a dry screed, they usually move on to laying another one - it will make the floor more durable and stable. If used for flooring gypsum fiber sheets, then a fold is cut off from them on the first layer so that they fit tightly together and bulk material cannot get between the first and second layers.
The second layer of sheets is always laid perpendicular to the bottom sheets.
The laid top layer of sheets is fixed with the bottom with using glue and additionally fastened with self-tapping screws. They must be twisted under load - to do this, simply stand on the top sheet, and the weight of the master will serve as the necessary load.
Exactly along the line doorways It is not recommended to join the sheets - it is necessary that the sheet be distributed in this place to both rooms.
If such floors are installed in a room where humidity is high, the entire surface of the floor is treated with coating waterproofing before laying the decorative coating.

Thus, it is obvious that the floor in a private house on a dry screed is quite easy to install if you take the work seriously, do it carefully and take your time. Rush absolutely inappropriate– in terms of time for completing work, such a technology under any circumstances is many times superior to any other.

The foundation has been poured, the walls have been raised, the roof has been installed and windows and doors have been installed. You can start laying floors in a wooden house with your own hands. This stage of work is not difficult, but requires careful attention to detail.

Proper installation of the floor pie is the key to its long service life. A small mistake with waterproofing is enough and you will have to re-cover the entire coating in a few years. Lack of underground ventilation will lead to the same result. And without insulation, you will not only have to walk around the house in warm slippers, but also fork out for additional heating costs.

Subfloor - what is it?

It is important to protect a wooden house from moisture - rotting makes the elements of the building unusable very quickly. Therefore, you should not embed logs into the first crown of the log house, even if they are made of larch and treated with an antiseptic - in any case, they will have to be changed someday. It is optimal to lay the logs on the foundation and fix them after the walls have been raised.

It is also important to ensure good ventilation of the subfloor by arranging sufficiently sized vents in the base or foundation. According to the standards, in the underground without forced ventilation The area of the vents should correspond to 1:400 of the area of the subfloor. Otherwise, regardless of waterproofing measures, the picture under the house will be unflattering.

When the flooring is ready, you can begin insulation. But before laying the insulation, it is necessary to resolve the issue of protecting it from moisture - after all, wet mineral wool not only does not retain heat, but also contributes to the formation of fungus and mold on the adjacent wood.

Waterproofing and vapor barrier - what is the difference?

Waterproofing protects materials from direct ingress of water, and vapor barrier prevents the penetration of wet fumes. Thus, all waterproofing films are laid on the outside, and vapor barrier films on the inside. Everything is clear with the walls. But how and what to put on the floor?

Under hygroscopic insulation on the rough flooring of the first floor, it is better to lay any vapor-proof films, you can even use simple polyethylene films. They will protect expanded clay or basalt slabs from fumes rising directly from the wet ground. At the same time, expensive membranes that remove moisture outside are not useful here - all the evaporation still rises. But, given the ventilated subfloor, they are increasingly returning to time-tested glassine as a “breathable” material.

But on top of the insulation it is necessary to lay vapor-permeable films that remove possible moisture. To do this, leave a special ventilation gap (minimum 5 cm). If the joist boards are not high enough, a counter batten is nailed along them, on top of the membrane, on which the finished floor is laid.

Floor insulation - why is it necessary?

Even schoolchildren know the principle of convection - warm air rises. By this logic, an uninsulated floor cannot release heat from the house. In fact, heat loss in a cold field reaches 20%!

All due to the same convection - air from the underground rises into the house, cooling it, and energy resources are also spent on heating the air in an unheated basement or underground.

Each type of insulation has its own advantages and disadvantages:

perlite, vermiculite, shungizite - analogues of expanded clay, do not absorb moisture, but are more expensive;

polystyrene foam and its derivatives are not susceptible to moisture, so they do not need waterproofing, they are lightweight and inexpensive, but they create a “greenhouse effect” in the house and are not recommended for wooden houses.

Bulk insulation is laid on a continuous flooring, slabs and mats can be placed on a sparse subfloor, you just need to properly lay the waterproofing and protect the insulation from rodents.

Finish floor and its types

Depending on the desired interior design, you can lay almost any floor in a wooden house:

Wood floors are great for living rooms. The main thing is to put good waterproofing to protect the insulation. But it is better to lay tiles in the kitchen and bathroom – places with high humidity.

In addition, there are variations with the installation of warm wooden floors and even concrete screed on the joists. So the choice depends only on construction skills and design preferences.

DIY technology for laying floors in a wooden house

Warm floors are comfortable, economical and extremely functional. Especially when you have to dry the winter overalls, jackets and mittens of three children after winter games outside. And so the entire floor area turns into a capacious battery - it would be a shame not to use it!

Concrete screed in a wooden house - reliability and functionality

In a wooden house, it is difficult to make a warm floor in a concrete screed, but it is quite possible:

The most important thing when pouring a concrete screed is to correctly calculate the load on the joists in advance. After all, the weight of the finished slab, taking into account the finished floor, will be about 150 kg/sq.m, and this does not take into account furniture and residents. When pouring concrete, the pitch of the beams is halved, and the logs themselves are lowered to the height of the screed (if the pouring is done only in the kitchen and bathroom, and not in the whole house).

A great way to reduce the weight of the floor is to not install a subfloor. It is enough to secure the vapor barrier film along the bottom with slats so that the insulation boards do not sag.

Dense waterproofing is laid on top of the log with a mandatory ventilation gap of 5 cm. It is very important to glue all places where it is attached to the beams with butyl rubber tape - so that there are no holes left through which the screed will wet the insulation.

Slate or cement bonded particle board– they have the best adhesion to concrete. Formwork of the same height as the future screed is installed on top of the level. Reinforcing mesh is laid on the same slate substrate. The height of the substrate is about 1 cm.
A “snail” of heated floor pipes is laid out. It can be attached to the mesh with ordinary cable clamps. It is important not to forget to lay a damper tape between the formwork and the reinforcement to compensate for the expansion of the future floor.

To protect yourself, carry out a test run of underfloor heating systems with high blood pressure. If no leaks are found, you can start filling.

After pouring, it is better to vibrate the screed and only then level it using a long rule. Concrete needs to be watered for 1-2 weeks to gain strength. After a month, you can begin laying any floor covering.

Wooden floors - simple and beautiful

If the floor joists are not strong enough to support the weight of the concrete slab, no need to worry! After all, you can make a dry heated floor with water heating. To do this, you will need boards with grooves for pipes, and foil is used as a heat-reflecting layer. Laminate is laid on top. The entire process is presented in detail in the video:

Return

In a house with outside multilayer walls with insulation on the outside, a cold bridge is formed through the base and load-bearing part of the wall, bypassing the insulation of the wall and floor.

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