It doesn’t matter where you live - or permanently in own home in rural areas, or seasonally in a country house, or in a house outside the city - the physical needs of a person remain unchanged for several thousand years.
Unless the degree of comfort and convenience has changed, where would we be without this?
Reflections on this issue formed the basis of the “foundation” of the design proposed below for one of the most popular country and rural buildings - a toilet.
It would seem regular toilet...However, the importance of this simple structure cannot be overstated.
The principles of convenience and functionality are organically combined with an attractive and aesthetic appearance wooden building without losing structural strength and rigidity.
Nowadays, the modern woodworking industry produces a large number of various moldings, which provides many opportunities for such creativity.
In combination with inexpensive and quite accessible power tools these days, this can help you without special effort and costs to repeat a similar design.
From hand tools First of all, you will need measuring and marking equipment - a tape measure, a square, a pencil. Perhaps chalk cord, folding meter.
The rest is a well-sharpened sharp hacksaw for wood, a pair of sharp chisels, a mallet or hammer, hand plane, glass cutter, miter box for hacksaw... (see Fig. 2, 3, 4)
It is advisable to have a jigsaw as a power tool. (see Fig. 5) , electric drill (see Fig. 7) , cordless screwdriver (see Fig. 6) , the simplest milling machine (see Fig. 8) , a set of wood cutters, a set of wood drills, the most common attachments for self-tapping screws.
Necessary power tools necessary power tools necessary power tools necessary power tools
Selection of the necessary material for construction
When selecting lumber, several basic conditions must be observed:
- Planed pine beams with a cross section of 45*105 mm are suitable for the frame; 7-8 pieces, each 3 meters long, are enough.
- You need to select timber that is as even and dry as possible, with as few large knots as possible, without blue or blackening.
- For the floor, it is advisable to select smooth and strong edged planed larch boards, at least 40 mm thick.
- For wall cladding, so-called imitation larch timber was used. The choice of larch is determined by its resistance to various adverse atmospheric conditions. And, importantly, decorative properties In terms of beauty and expressiveness of texture, larches are much superior to the wood of such popular coniferous species like pine and spruce.
The so-called block house is also suitable for this purpose - wooden panels that imitate rounded logs.
- Such moldings come in various standard lengths. This must be taken into account at the stage of determining the dimensions of the structure, so that when trimming there is as little unused scrap as possible.
- Roof base – edged planed pine boards section 30*150 mm. Selection criteria: smooth, dry, without blue.
- For the windows, it is necessary to select smooth and strong, knot-free, planed pine bars with a cross-section of 45*45 mm.
- When choosing metal fasteners, it is advisable to avoid using black self-tapping screws due to their insufficient strength. For fastening wooden parts It is advisable to use yellow or white wood screws with a diameter of at least 4 mm.
Assembling the toilet frame
It is most convenient to start assembling the frame with manufacturing bottom trim. Four beams of the required length need to be connected in half a tree (see Fig. 9) and twist with so-called “wood grouse” - powerful self-tapping screws with a diameter of 8 mm and a length of 120-150 mm with turnkey hex heads (see Fig. 10) .
The cut lines are marked with a square, two parallel cuts are made along them with a hacksaw, and the waste is removed with a chisel.
The main condition when marking the bars of the lower trim is that it is necessary to maintain the required distance between the internal corners. So, in in this case, the width of the front and rear walls is 120 cm, the width of the side walls is 90 cm. This is due to the standard length wood panels– 3 m. Such dimensions do not result in trimming when trimming, since two parts of 90 cm and one of 120 cm are cut from one panel.
Chamfers 5-6 mm wide are milled at all corners.
As a result, we get a finished wooden base frame (see Fig. 11) , to which the frame racks will be attached in the future.
The racks are cut with a small allowance in length and laid out on a flat surface to assemble the front wall (see Fig. 12) . Length – 15 cm for attaching to the lower harness and plus 185 cm in height, total – 200 cm.
The lower horizontal bar is screwed temporarily - from it bottom side the height is measured and it fixes the shape.
The upper inclined bars are a kind of rafters for a small roof. It is advisable to make the roof overhang as large as possible - in this case about 30 cm (see Fig. 13) . This necessary condition for guard wooden walls from rainfall.
The length of the upper bars is selected experimentally, taking into account the width along the front wall (120 cm) and the angle of inclination of the roof - about 25 degrees (see Fig. 14) .
The intersections of two bars are marked with a pencil to make markings for cutting corners (see Fig. 15) .
Marks are connected using a square (see Fig. 16) .
The bars are cut using a hacksaw according to the markings (see Fig. 17) and the result is four identical parts (see Fig. 18) .
Marked in a similar way vertical racks (see Fig. 19) and cut to the required size (200 cm) and angle (see Fig. 20) .
Use a pencil to mark curly cutouts at the ends of the inclined upper bars (see Fig. 21) .
And using a jigsaw, the excess is cut off according to the markings made (see Fig. 22) .
Cutouts are made in the same way on the remaining bars. (see Fig. 23) .
The result is curly cutouts of the same shape on all four bars (see Fig. 24) .
On all edges of the upper bars and vertical posts, chamfers with a depth of 5-6 mm are milled (see Fig. 25) .
The result is neat parts of the same length and the same shape (see Fig. 26 and 27) .
Assembly is carried out using self-tapping screws.
To do this, holes are pre-drilled in the screwed bars. The diameter of the drill is 0.5-1 mm larger than the thread diameter of the screw itself (see Fig. 28) .
Using a screwdriver with an attachment corresponding to the screw head, we alternately fasten the two parts together (see Fig. 29) .
The drilled hole allows the screw to be screwed in to firmly position the two parts and, in addition, helps to avoid cracks in the screwed parts from splitting when screwed in (see Fig. 30) .
Holes in the upper bars are pre-drilled in the same way. (see Fig. 31) .
For such a width of the screwed part, two self-tapping screws are enough for each fastening point. (see Fig. 32) .
Since a door will be installed in the front wall, it is necessary to make an opening for it. To do this, it is necessary to symmetrically attach two additional posts of the same cross-section as the corner posts to the frame. In addition to forming doorway, these racks will allow you to subsequently secure decorative windows without additional effort.
Using a tape measure, mark the required distances (approximately 160 mm from the inner edge of the corner posts) and screw in two additional posts (see Fig. 33) .
The protruding upper parts are cut off in place with a hacksaw (see Fig. 34) .
For reliability, the attachment point for the upper bars can be strengthened by screwing in an additional pad made from scraps of timber (see Fig. 35) .
To ensure that the back wall is the same size as the front wall, we use the assembled wall as a template. Having secured the frame parts to the front wall with clamps, the rear wall is assembled to the same dimensions (see Fig. 36) .
After pre-assembly their main parts can be fastened into a single frame. Temporary bottom bars serve as limiters, with the help of which all racks in the frame will have the same height (see Fig. 37) . The lower trim is pre-leveled so that there are no distortions later.
Two holes with a diameter of 8 mm are drilled into the racks using an electric drill. (see Fig. 38) . Holes with a diameter of 6 mm are drilled in the harness.
After drilling, the posts are screwed to the bottom trim using self-tapping screws with a diameter of 8 mm and a length of 100 mm (see Fig. 39) .
To maintain the same distance between the two walls in the upper part, they are temporarily fastened with strips of the same length.
This completes the assembly of the frame - the “skeleton” of the entire structure. (see Fig. 40) .
Covering the walls and floor of the toilet
For floor covering, edged larch boards are used. To eliminate cracks from shrinkage of the boards, you need to use either ready-made tongue-and-groove boards, or cut grooves in edged boards and insert slats into the joints of the boards.
It is most convenient to attach the boards parallel to the side walls - this makes it easier to make cutouts for the racks. The distance between the outer contours of the bottom trim is the required length of the boards (see Fig. 41) .
To minimize scraps, it is advisable to select a standard length such that one board is trimmed without leaving any residue. Marking with a tape measure and a square will help ensure smooth edges, which is important (see Fig. 42) .
All marked boards are cut with a hacksaw (see Fig. 43) .
After this, using a square, you need to carefully mark the locations of the cutouts in the boards for the racks (see Fig. 44) .
To do this, the board is placed close to the racks, and lines are drawn along the dimensions of the rack; the depth of the cutouts corresponds to the distance that the board does not reach the edge.
Parts with markings that need to be removed are marked with hatching (see Fig. 45) .
The board is carefully cut along the line with a hacksaw, which should be held perpendicular to the cutting line (see Fig. 46) .
After this, the waste is removed with light blows of a chisel. (see Fig. 47) .
Cutouts for the remaining racks are made in the same way. (see Fig. 48) .
On the upper end parts of all boards and in the places of cutouts, chamfers are removed with a milling machine.
Holes for fastening are marked and drilled in the laid boards at the same distance from the edge of the boards (see Fig. 49) .
Using wood screws, the boards are screwed tightly and without gaps to the bars of the bottom trim (see Fig. 50) .
This way it turns out smooth and neat, without cracks, wooden floor (see Fig. 51) .
Sheathing the frame is not difficult, but requires similar care.
Wooden panels are carefully marked in length using a tape measure (see Fig. 52) .
And the square (see Fig. 53) .
After marking, the panels are cut into pieces of the required length (see Fig. 54) .
The result is panels of two sizes - short for lining the side walls and long for lining the back wall (see Fig. 55) .
Because this board has a working width of 140 mm, then it is necessary to fasten each side with two self-tapping screws, as close as possible to the edge of the board - approximately 20-25 mm. This will, to some extent, keep the wood panels from warping.
To prevent cracking of the panels from the screws being screwed in and to ensure a tight connection, all parts are pre-drilled according to the markings before fastening (see Fig. 56) To do this, one marked part is superimposed on the second and holes are drilled in all panels according to this template.
The panels prepared in this way are screwed to the frame posts using wood screws, about 50 mm long. (see Fig. 57) .
If the ridge of the panel fits too tightly into the counter groove (or the panel is slightly curved), then you need to carefully back the panel on top with wood or rubber mallet, placing the same scrap under the mallet so as not to split the panel (see Fig. 58) .
In this way, all the panels are attached to the top of the frame, where it may be necessary to trim the last panels so that they do not protrude above the roof plane (see Fig. 59) .
We are installing a roof in the toilet
Before laying the roofing material, edged boards are screwed tightly onto both slopes (see fig. 60 and 61) .
If the side overhangs of the roof were formed by extending the rafters 30 cm from the side walls, then the roof overhangs in front and behind are formed by the length of the boards - for this you need to add the rear overhang (about 20 cm) and the front overhang (about 30 cm) to the width of the side walls. By adding the three sizes together, you get the required length of the boards.
In this case, metal tiles are used as roofing. There are many options available on the market these days. roofing coverings various types and colors, so the choice is practically unlimited.
Metal tiles are attached to the boards with roofing screws (see Fig. 62) .
After this, all that remains is to close the front and back end parts with neat boards, which are screwed with self-tapping screws (see Fig. 63) .
Making windows in the toilet
Windows are used not only as decoration, since they largely form appearance Total wooden structure. To some extent, they play a purely practical role, since they are a translucent structure, which to some extent imparts a kind of internal comfort.
In order to make such windows, you will need several bars with a cross section of 45*45 mm and a length of __ mm (see Fig. 64) .
The first step is to cut out a quarter in each block. To do this you need to configure the departure saw blade on a circular saw 20 mm (see Fig. 65) .
After that unnecessary part the bars are carefully cut out (see Fig. 66) .
The bars prepared in this way are laid out on a flat surface and the internal dimensions each window - a formed quarter is necessary in order to insert the window into the opening between the posts (see Fig. 67) .
The parts are fastened together with self-tapping screws, so it is necessary to drill the screwed parts (see Fig. 69) .
We install a chamfer cutter into the milling machine (see Fig. 70) .
And we remove chamfers 7-8 mm wide on all longitudinal and transverse ribs (see Fig. 71) .
As a result of milling, neat parts are obtained (see Fig. 72) .
The resulting parts are fastened into frames using self-tapping screws (see Fig. 73) .
Protruding corners on the inside of the cross bars are cut off with a hacksaw (see Fig. 74) .
The waste is trimmed and cleaned with a chisel (see Fig. 75) .
This part of the frame is inserted into the opening (see Fig. 76) .
To install glass, you need to cut a groove inside along the entire perimeter of the frames. For this purpose it is installed disk cutter into a milling machine (see Fig. 77) .
And in several passes, an internal groove 1-2 mm wider than the thickness of the glass is milled. Standard thickness relief glass – 4 mm. Groove depth – 10 mm (see Fig. 78) .
From thinner bars you need to make jumpers that will be inserted between the glasses. They are chamfered in the same way and grooves for glass are milled on both sides. It is convenient to make such short parts from one long piece - that is, first chamfer and cut grooves along the long sides, then cut required amount parts and chamfer the end parts (see Fig. 79) .
After preparing the frames, the glass is cut out (see Fig. 80) . Depending on the initial sketch, it is worth calculating their number immediately. The construction markets currently offer a varied selection of similar glass, which can be cut on site to right size. More a budget option– use old glass from the door or regular glass window glass, which on one side is matted (sanded) with a vibrating sander to make it opaque.
After preparing the glass, the frames are assembled (see Fig. 81) .
To do this, one of the crossbars is unscrewed and glass and wooden jumpers are inserted alternately into the groove.
After this, the lower cross member is screwed into place (see Fig. 82) .
The groove for the glass was intentionally made 1-2 mm larger than the thickness of the glass in order to fill the now formed gap with transparent silicone sealant (see Fig. 83) .
The plastic spout of the tube is cut off to obtain a roller 3-4 mm thick.
After filling the gaps, the sealant is carefully leveled (see Fig. 84) . It is advisable to wait several hours for the sealant to dry.
By filling the gaps, rainwater will not get into the frames and, in addition, the glass will be firmly fixed from vibrations.
The frames are fixed in the openings prepared for them with self-tapping screws. To do this with inside holes are drilled into the racks through which screws are screwed in (see Fig. 85) .
Short pieces of wooden panels are first screwed into the upper and lower parts of the openings.
Making a door to the country toilet
The door is assembled from the same wooden panels, only in a vertical position.
To do this, the dimensions of the opening are measured and the door leaf of the required width and length is selected. If the canvas is wider than the opening, then it is cut to the required size symmetrically - so that the outer panels are the same width.
To the width of the opening you should add 2 cm on the right and left - since the door will overlap the racks.
The upper part is cut at the same angle as the upper frame bars.
After cutting to size, chamfers are milled around the perimeter (see Fig. 86) .
The panels are fastened to each other using crossbars, which are cut from panel scraps. Due to the width of the panels, you can do without a jib - the rigidity of the canvas will be achieved through self-tapping screws and application silicone sealant before screwing the crossbars (see Fig. 87) .
Be sure to pre-drill holes in the cross members.
It is advisable to choose canopies with a long arm and screw them into the places where the crossbars are screwed (see Fig. 88) .
To set a gap of 4-5 mm between the floor and the door, just place a chisel under the door (see Fig. 89) .
One of important elements – door handles– made from scraps of curved tree branches (see Fig. 90) . The handles are attached to the door with self-tapping screws.
To prevent the screw caps from being visible from the outside, you should first screw on the inner handle, and then cover the external screw caps with the handle.
The corners of the entire structure are covered with strips 70-80 mm wide and 12-15 mm thick. They are attached with self-tapping screws (see Fig. 92) .
Painting the toilet
The final appearance of the whole wooden structure determined by painting. It is advisable to choose a weather-resistant coating designed for use in street conditions (see Fig. 93) .
Paint or impregnation is applied with a brush in one or two layers. To more clearly highlight the structure of the wood, it is necessary to thoroughly rub the material with a brush over the entire surface to be painted. (see Fig. 94 .)
The first building that appears on any site is a toilet. We can somehow manage without a house and a shower, but we can’t do without this building. For many, a DIY garden toilet is their first construction experience. It’s good that the structure is simple, so even without experience it’s easy to do.
The very first building at the dacha is a toilet. Often this is the first experience of DIY construction.
Although a country toilet is not the most complex building, it has many features. You cannot do without a clear action plan. Let's describe step by step how to build a toilet in the country:
- Choose the type of toilet.
- Determine the location on the site for construction.
- Decide on the dimensions and materials for construction.
- You start construction.
Now about each point in more detail.
Without cesspool
Most toilets are without cesspool much easier and faster to build. In them, waste is collected in an airtight container, which is usually placed directly under the toilet seat. The whole difference is in how the waste is processed and its odor is neutralized. There are the following types:
The advantages of country toilets without a cesspool (also called dry) are significant:
There are also significant disadvantages:
- Factory-made toilets are not that cheap.
- It is necessary to periodically change the container.
- It is necessary to monitor the availability of neutralization means.
Standards for installing a toilet on the site
Most of the restrictions apply to pit toilets: it is necessary to limit possible contamination. The rules are:
The remaining standards are valid for all types of toilets:
- There must be at least 1 meter to the site boundary.
- Doors should not open towards the neighboring area.
- When choosing a location, you need to take into account the prevailing wind direction.
When choosing a place where you will build a toilet for your dacha with your own hands, pay attention not only to your own buildings and objects, but also to those of your neighbors. This will help avoid friction with them and with the sanitation station.
If you are building a toilet with a cesspool, you will need to add to all the listed requirements - the organization of an entrance for a sewer truck.
How to make a toilet in the country with your own hands
You have already completed the first two steps: you have chosen the type of toilet and the place to install it. The next step is to choose the sizes. Deciding on them is not so difficult. They told us how to choose the volume of a cesspool - 1.5 cubic meters is enough for 2-3 people, now about what size the toilet house should be. It all depends on own desire and on the size of the owners. IN standard version Toilets are made in the following sizes:
- height - 220 cm;
- width - 150 cm;
- depth - 100 cm.
These dimensions are convenient for people with average build. They can be changed as you wish. There are no standards.
Toilet houses are most often made of wood. But this is not the rule. He might be from sheet material type fiberboard, gypsum fiber board, made of flat slate, brick and any other building materials, profiled sheet metal, even made of plastic.
You can build a toilet in your dacha with your own hands from any material. This one is made of corrugated board
Most lovely roofing material for a country toilet - slate. The installation of a soft roof made of fused materials is inexpensive. In general, you can use any available one. It is attached to a continuous sheathing, so there is not much difference.
Building a village toilet
The last stage is the actual construction. The procedure is determined by what type of toilet you will build. If there is a cesspool, this is done first.
Cesspool for toilet
The procedure for construction is as follows:
In order not to bother with masonry and waterproofing, you can install a special plastic container- septic tank. They come in different volumes and designs - with one or two necks.
Septic tanks in the cesspool of a country toilet - and no problems with waterproofing
A pit is dug slightly larger than the size of the selected septic tank, the container is installed, and filled with previously removed soil. The construction of such a cesspool is many times faster and more reliable.
Cabin for country toilet
Any toilet for a summer residence is installed in a small cabin-house. The easiest way to make a rectangular structure with your own hands is pitched roof: minimum time, costs and materials.
Booth base - posts
The first thing you need to take care of is the presence of flooring. It needs to be raised some distance above the ground. It is more convenient to do this with the help of columns folded in the corners of the building. It is hardly worth burying them to the depth of soil freezing, but it is necessary to bury them in the soil 20-30 cm below the fertile layer. They are usually made of bricks, rubble stone, they can be poured from concrete, etc. On this basis, the cabin will rise during heaving, but usually this does not lead to any serious damage: the structure is small.
As it turned out, building a toilet for a summer house with your own hands is not so difficult. Little time and expense is required. But in the process you will acquire useful skills.
No place where people live can do without a toilet, and the cottage is no exception. Building a country toilet with your own hands will not be difficult. A toilet for a summer house can be organized different ways from traditional rustic to modern septic tank. This article will look at how to organize a waste collection and disposal site and make a comfortable and beautiful toilet.
Types of toilets for summer cottages
Country toilet According to the method of construction, they can be divided into three types: street, peat, septic tank or cesspool.
Outdoor or summer toilet for the dacha is a separate building with a pit underneath for collecting waste - this is the simplest type, it will perfectly satisfy all the needs of the owners.
Fig.2.
Fig.3.
Its main advantage is that cleaning may not be performed for more than 10 years, due to the slow accumulation of waste. This is facilitated by its design; the pit is not sealed and has ventilation. Part of the liquid fraction evaporates, and part is absorbed into the soil. Thus, the accumulation of waste occurs very slowly.
Fig.4.
Fig.5.
Despite all the advantages of an outdoor toilet, it cannot be built with high level groundwater, more than 2.5 m. Otherwise, there will be water in the pit all the time, and not just in the spring, and sewage may get into the groundwater. This is especially dangerous if the water supply to the dacha is carried out using a well. Also, the installation of a country toilet is subject to certain standards for location on the site.
Peat or Finnish toilet for the dacha- this is a structure without a pit; all sewage accumulates in a special tank. A country toilet of Finnish design is built as a separate building. It has a simple operating principle. After each use, waste products are sprinkled with peat, or a mixture of peat with ash, sawdust, and crushed bark. The mixture promotes the decomposition of sewage. Once the container is full, it must be emptied compost heap for further processing. Recycled waste is organic fertilizer, which can be used to feed plants.
Fig.6.
Fig.7.
This species has no location restrictions. The disadvantage of a dry composting toilet is that it requires regular removal of the contents. Therefore, it is advisable to arrange it if the dacha is used seasonally and is constantly used by no more than 1 - 2 people.
Fig.8.
Fig.9.
Fig. 10.
Septic tank allows you to organize a bathroom in country house. This becomes possible thanks to a sealed cesspool, which can be installed anywhere on the site and at any groundwater level. A septic tank makes it possible to make a toilet in a country house with a toilet like in a city apartment. Unlike a country toilet, a septic tank can be used year-round. Therefore, it is usually arranged in places of permanent residence.
Fig. 11.
Fig. 12.
The disadvantage of a septic tank is its high cost and labor-intensive installation. The septic tank does not just accumulate waste, it processes it. Septic tank maybe various designs. Depending on the type of septic tank, the percentage of recycling is different, but does not reach 100%, so it is necessary to periodically pump out sediments, and doing this with your own hands is quite difficult. In this connection, the septic tank must be accessible for access by a sewage disposal truck.
Fig. 13.
Fig. 14.
Building an outdoor toilet with your own hands
Most dachas are used only in summer. That's why outdoor toilet is the most popular. The construction of a country toilet with a cesspool underneath will not require much effort; it is quite easy to do it yourself, and you can use improvised materials during construction.
Standards for the location of a toilet for a summer residence
The first stage of construction is choosing the location for its installation. When choosing a place you need to consider sanitary standards.
Fig. 15.
The country toilet must be located at a distance of at least 8 m from residential buildings, at least 12 m from the cellar and at least 25 m from the source clean water(wells or wells). Therefore, it is usually located in the far corner of the garden.
Fig. 16.
Fig. 17.
Sooner or later, the cesspool will fill up and the toilet will no longer be usable. The pit can be cleaned or the toilet can be moved to another location. As a rule, they choose the second option, make a new hole next to the old one and move the cabin. Compositions with bacteria are added to the old cesspool, which will turn the sewage into compost in a couple of years. The compost can be extracted for fertilization and the pit can be reused.
How to make a pit toilet
Construction of a toilet for a summer residence begins with the construction of a cesspool. A standard pit has a depth of 1 - 1.5 m and a width of 1 m. If groundwater are far enough away, the depth of the toilet pit may be greater.
Fig. 18.
To prevent the pit from crumbling, it is necessary to strengthen the walls. You can strengthen them with bricks, rubble stones, old car tires, concrete rings, or install a tank. A more durable option is concrete rings. However, the simplest, fastest and most popular is the barrel. This design uses a metal or plastic container with a volume of 200 liters.
Fig. 19.
Rubble is poured into the bottom of the cesspool in a layer of 10–15 cm. Holes are made in the barrel through which the liquid fraction of sewage will flow into the ground. Place the barrel in the hole and fill the perimeter with crushed stone. Crushed stone will act as drainage and prevent silting of the pit. Instead of crushed stone you can use broken brick, stone, etc. In this way, the service life of a country toilet can be significantly increased.
Fig.20.
Fig.21.
Fig.22.
How to make a foundation for a toilet stall
The second stage of building a toilet for a summer house is the construction of a cabin. Traditionally, the cabin is made according to frame technology. First, the frame is assembled, then covered with clapboard, corrugated sheets or siding. A frame toilet can be assembled from wooden beams or welded from a metal profile.
Fig.23.
Fig.24.
Fig.25.
The cabin is enough lightweight design, so no special foundation is required. To prevent the toilet stall from standing directly on the ground, it is placed on concrete blocks. In turn, concrete blocks are placed on a sand cushion 10–20 cm thick. This approach ensures solid foundation and natural ventilation, which contributes to the absence of odor.
Fig.26.
Fig.27.
Fig.28.
The easiest way is to make a booth from wood, because... not required when working with wood special tool, for example, welding. A wooden cabin will not heat up in the sun, unlike a toilet made of corrugated sheets, and it will be comfortable to use.
Fig.29.
You can make a wooden booth with your own hands from timber with a cross-section from 50x50 mm to 100x100 mm. First, the base of the frame is assembled, then the vertical posts are installed, after which the rafters are attached and the sheathing is made.
Fig.30.
Fig.31.
Fig.32.
All elements of the cabin frame are connected with self-tapping screws and construction metal corners. From the outside, it is covered with boards, slats or a block house, which makes the stall look like a toilet made of logs. Any roofing material can be used for the roof. The door for the toilet house can be made from boards or used ready-made.
Fig.33.
Fig.34.
Toilet seat
The toilet seat can be made in various ways. The two most popular options are a platform and a special plastic bucket. When making a platform, it is important to take into account that its height should be 45 cm and width 60 cm. These dimensions guarantee ease of use of the country toilet.
Fig.35.
Fig.36.
Fig.37.
An important point to consider when building a cabin is the presence of a window. The window performs two functions of lighting and ventilation. The window should not be glassed, so the house will not be hot and there will be no smell.
Fig.38.
Fig.39.
Toilet stall drawings
The toilet stall may have a different design, but the principle of construction is identical for all. Here are some examples.
Fig.40.
Fig.41.
Fig.42.
Fig.43.
Fig.44.
Fig.45.
Fig.46.
Fig.47.
Fig.48.
Fig.49.
Fig.50.
Fig.51.
Fig.52.
Cesspool toilet in the country
Septic tank, for a summer residence seasonal use, is done quite rarely due to the high complexity of its design. Of course you can buy ready septic tank, but then you will have to pay a considerable amount of money for it. If the dacha is visited all year round, then installing a septic tank completely justifies the effort and money spent on it.
Fig.53.
A septic tank is a sealed chamber or several chambers into which waste products enter, where they accumulate and are partially processed. The main criterion for the construction of a septic tank is its volume. For a family of three people, the minimum volume of a septic tank should be 1.5 cubic meters.
The simplest septic tank consists of one chamber and is quite easy to do with your own hands, because... in essence, it is a sealed cesspool, which eliminates the leakage of sewage and flooding with groundwater.
Fig.54.
Fig.55.
The procedure for constructing a cesspool for a country toilet is as follows. They dig a pit 1.5 - 2 m deep. A sand cushion 20 cm thick is poured onto the bottom of the pit. Next, pour concrete slab 10 cm thick will be the bottom of the cesspool. After that, the walls of the cesspool are built from brick, stone or concrete. The outside of the building is waterproofed to protect it from groundwater. A sewer pipe from the toilet is connected to the cesspool. The sewer pipe is laid with a slope of 2-3 cm per 1 m of length. A roof is placed on top of the pit. The roof can be made of wood or concrete. For year-round use, the roof of the cesspool must be insulated. When creating a roof, be sure to provide a hatch for pumping out sewage.
Fig.56.
Simpler and quick option creating a cesspool means using ready-made concrete structures, for example, rings. In this case, it is necessary to dig a pit, install rings in it and run a sewer pipe from the country toilet.
Fig.57.
Fig.58.
Additionally, the septic tank must be insulated and equipped with ventilation. The simplest ventilation option is to install a vent riser in the house and bring the pipe to the roof level.
Operating a septic tank of this type is quite simple. Gradually it fills with sewage, and when 2/3 of the volume is filled, the septic tank is emptied by a sewage disposal machine. This will have to be done regularly, so the septic tank must be located in a place accessible to the sewer truck.
Diagrams and drawings of a homemade septic tank
Fig.59.
Fig.60.
Fig.61.
Fig.62.
Autonomous sewage system
An alternative homemade septic tank is the septic tank “Tank”. He is plastic barrel, divided into sections. The first section is filled in first, and solid waste sink to the bottom, and only the liquid fraction remains on the surface. As it is filled, the liquid fraction is poured into the adjacent section, where similar processes occur. A composition containing anaerobic bacteria is added to the septic tank, which decomposes sewage. The water purified in this way is drained into the drain, and the sediment is pumped out by a sewer truck.
Fig.63.
Another option for a septic tank with a high percentage of waste recycling is a septic tank " Autonomous sewerage" The principle of its operation is similar to a traditional septic tank, with the only exception that the autonomous sewage system is equipped air compressor, which enriches sewage with oxygen, and the decomposition process occurs under the influence aerobic bacteria. Autonomous sewerage is dependent on electricity, but allows for a high degree of recycling of waste.
Fig.64.
Fig.65.
Fig.66.
Installation of the last two types of septic tank involves preparing a pit, installing a septic tank in it and connecting it to the sewer system of the house.
We looked at all the ways to design and build a toilet for a summer house. If you plan to live or visit your dacha all year round and want to have the comfort of a city apartment, then you should immediately install a septic tank. If you visit your dacha only in the summer, then it is easier and faster to build a summer toilet with a cesspool under it. If you don’t go to your dacha often, then the simplest option for installing a toilet is a Finnish peat toilet. Whatever toilet option you choose, any of them will perfectly meet your needs, and the dacha will not be left without a toilet.
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People come to the dacha not only to tend to their vegetable garden, but also to relax. To make it pleasant to be on the site, it is important to build beautiful buildings - from the house to the toilet. Good example can be seen in the photo.
Choosing a place to install a toilet
A toilet in a summer cottage must be built in compliance with sanitary requirements. It should be located at a distance of at least 25-30 meters from sources drinking water(wells, wells). If the terrain is uneven, then the toilet is located below the drinking water intake level. There must be at least 12 meters from it to the cellar or residential building.In addition, the choice of location for this building depends on the planned cleaning method and its frequency. If waste will be removed using a special sewer truck, then the toilet must be placed in such a way that equipment can easily approach it.
Based on this, it is advisable to place a latrine at the end of the site, making a retreat from the fence of 1-2 meters and lead a convenient, and if possible, beautiful path.
Choosing the type of toilet for a summer residence and its design
For those who plan to spend a lot of time at their summer cottage, it is important what the construction of the toilet will look like and how comfortable it will be to be in it.There are three types of such buildings that do not require connection to engineering communications. The most famous of them is a bathroom with a cesspool. More convenient to use, but less common are types of sanitary buildings such as backlash-closet and powder-closet.
Installing a toilet in a country house has its own characteristics depending on its type. For example, a powder closet is the best option for owners of plots where groundwater flows close to the surface, as well as if they rarely come to the dacha. A backlash closet can also be made directly in the house. The simplest design is the usual one, familiar to every person. This design does not require any special knowledge or skills.
An ordinary street toilet in a country house
This type of building is easy to create. First, they dig a hole. Its width should be 1 meter and depth – 1.5-2 meters. Crushed stone is laid at the bottom, and the walls are laid out with brick or other similar material, including improvised material. For example, from old barrel cut off the bottom and place it in a hole; as an option, it is also allowed to use unusable car tires. Required condition– walls must be waterproof to prevent sewage from penetrating into groundwater.
As for cleaning, this is not particularly important for owners summer cottages. Since the toilet is mainly used in the summer, the pit fills at a slow rate. When it is 2/3 full, it is simply filled up and the toilet is moved to another place. After about 8 years, the contents of the pit will rot, and it will be used as good fertilizer. After cleaning the pit, the toilet can be returned to former place. Read also: "".
Having completed the creation of the cesspool, they begin to construct the above-ground part. If desired, you can make the booth yourself, and already finished buildings sold in stores.
To create a toilet cabin you will need the following materials:
- plywood (chipboard);
- beam for seat size 50x50;
- timber for the frame 3 meters long and 100x100 in size;
- slate sheet.
0.5 meters are measured from the floor level and the material for constructing the seat is inserted into the main beam. Another jumper is made a meter from the wall. This completes the construction of the base for the seat. Then lay a sheet of plywood or chipboard, use a jigsaw to make a hole for the toilet seat, install it and secure it with self-tapping screws.
The walls of the toilet are sheathed with plywood or chipboard, if desired - edged board. Sometimes they are insulated with sheet foam or mineral wool. A sheet of galvanized iron or slate is laid on the roof beams.
In order to give the structure strength and stability, it is deepened into the ground. Then the door is installed. This completes the construction of the toilet.
Powder closet
This type of toilet can be built in just one day. The main difference between this option is the absence of a cesspool. This is both an advantage and a disadvantage: on the one hand, you won’t have to waste time on arranging it, and on the other, cleaning will often be required. Read also: "".To build a powder closet, two containers are prepared, one of them will serve for waste, and the other for dry peat (it is permissible to use dried earth, sawdust, etc.).
Then they choose a place to build the structure and install the house in the same way as in the previous version, adding 25-30 centimeters in width and making a hinged lid for the toilet seat. Then they place a waste tank on the floor and a box with crushed dry peat. After using the toilet, the waste must be “powdered” with earth, sawdust or peat. After filling the container, the sewage is removed into compost pit.
Backlash closet
This is the most difficult way to build a toilet in a summer cottage. Its main advantage is the ability to install a warm toilet inside the house, providing underground cleaning. Cleaning the toilet is possible only with the help of special sewer equipment. If you can’t use this machine, then there’s no point in building it. this type bathroom.The building is divided into two parts, one of which is located in the house, and the other on the street. The last of them is a pit for sewage. It must be made airtight. The volume should be 500 cubic meters. m. for one person permanently residing in the house. A hatch with two covers is installed above the pit. The wooden one is fixed above the ceiling, the cast iron one is fixed above ground level. The void between them must be filled with thermal insulation material.
To prevent an unpleasant odor in the house, it is important to create a good ventilation. Building a toilet in a country house is not difficult - there are several options for such buildings. You can cope with their arrangement yourself, devoting several days to the work.
It's a city dweller's dream to buy country house, where you can relax from the hustle and bustle. Well, now you are the owner of the site and the most in demand part is the toilet. What if it’s not there?
But there is a way out - to build a toilet with your own hands, using improvised means, creating your own drawing. Provide with your own hands comfortable conditions for accommodation.
How to make a toilet in the country?
A string of questions immediately arises in my head: what drawing to choose, what design to give, what materials will be used. In this article we will reveal the basis and rules for developing your project.
Main types of booths
First, let's figure out what types of structures exist. The simplest type, a building with a cesspool.
But before we begin, we take into account the sanitary standards that apply in Russia: think about the cleaning method, proper waterproofing. Check your neighbors' requirements to avoid conflict situations.
You can make a toilet in your country house using several options.
We list the types of buildings:
- The birdhouse is an economical version with a pitched roof located on a box. Summer option;
- Hut - complex design with a large selection of designs, keeps you warm in the cold. Requires more costs by material;
- Hut - simple form With gable roof, resistant model from the wind;
- The house is a structure with increased strength, a warm option;
- Double rooms - complex construction with a second section;
- Toilet with shower - an additional extension for washing is attached to the main booth;
- A dry toilet can be installed even inside the house. Biotoilets are gaining popularity, since there is no special fuss with them.
There are three types of dry toilets: peat, chemical and electric models. This is the first aid option when construction is underway.
Then you can proceed to a major toilet with a reliable septic tank that will serve for years.
Where to start construction?
A summer resident needs a toilet that is hygienic, clean and pleasing to the eye, while respecting the environmental situation, neutralizing waste, and meeting the requirements for external design.
Capital septic tank with a complex of tanks in the ground
To do this, they most often do three concrete rings, which are immersed in the ground one by one. The upper ones become settling tanks, the third filters sewage that goes into the ground without causing harm to groundwater.
Such septic tanks contain anaerobic bacteria that process waste and neutralize harmful bacteria.
You are faced with the following tasks:
- choose a system for draining, draining and disposing of sewage;
- determine the location for the toilet and it is better to choose one remote from the house;
- decide which type of structure is suitable, discussed above;
- choose a design that you can make with your own hands;
- select suitable materials;
- determine the size of the toilet in the country;
- calculate construction cost estimates.
Decide for yourself how you will clean the waste pit if you do not install a septic tank. How can a sewage disposal truck arrive, pumping out sewage?
Have you decided and answered the questions? Now we can start construction, let's take it step by step.
Practice: start of construction
We have decided on the location and will select the desired design. Builders have already developed a certain gold standard of size, the ratio: 2.2x1x1.4 m.
Look at the photo of the country toilet. Having decided on the form, let’s prepare the necessary tools:
Note!
- hammer drill, which can be replaced with a crowbar, for breaking hard ground;
- a shovel, preferably with a short handle, so it’s easier to dig;
- container for waste pit, optimal capacity 200 l;
If you use electrical appliances, take care of the power source.
Make drawings of a country toilet or use the data in the drawing. Consider installing ventilation and insulation. Let's start construction with a waste pit.
First stage - pit
We will dig a deep waste pit for sewage. The standard shape is square, the depth is not less than 2 m. After digging, we must strengthen the walls; we can use reinforced concrete material, boards, or make masonry from stone or brick.
We ensure the bottom of the pit is airtight, fill it with crushed stone or make a concrete screed.
If there is a risk of contaminating groundwater, we will make the walls and bottom waterproof and seal it with special material.
Note!
Second stage - frame
The pit has been prepared, we will begin to build a protective external structure. The prepared frame must be secured; it is better to make it wooden. Let's make markings and drill holes in which we install support pillars. They will provide durability for future construction.
The foundation itself is necessary if you visit the country house all year round, for long-term use. First, it must be deepened, then bricks or blocks should be placed in the corners; waterproofing will be provided by a roofing material overlay.
Place the material between the prepared frame and the foundation. Immediately begin installing the bottom frame to prevent the roofing felt from drying out from the sun's rays.
Lay the floor, prepare the seat skeleton in place and attach it. Nail the façade frame to the posts. After covering the toilet seat, make a hole.
Now sheathe the facade of the toilet directly; you can choose lining, corrugated sheets, siding and other materials for this. Install the roof sheathing and place any slate or metal roofing on it.
Note!
Finish hanging the door on the hinges and the wooden outdoor toilet is almost ready.
The third stage - ventilation
To unpleasant odors didn’t bother you, we will develop a ventilation system in the toilet structure. We use for this plastic pipe with a diameter of 100 mm.
Let's take tin clamps and pull it to the hole made in the roof of the building. The lower end of the pipe must be carried 15 cm into the waste pit, cutting a hole of the required diameter into the seat.
The deflector attachment will additionally help increase traction. There is nothing complicated in construction; anyone can build a simple toilet.
DIY toilet photo
