Jasmine (lat. Jasminum) is an evergreen shrub that belongs to the angiosperm department, dicotyledonous class, order Lamiaceae, olive family, jasmine genus.
Jasmine: description, characteristics, photo. What does jasmine look like?
In appearance, this plant is easy to distinguish from other representatives of its genus: these are erect or climbing shrubs with a thin and smooth stem, which is covered with trifoliate, simple, dark green, odd-pinnate leaves. The stem ends with large flowers of regular shape. Jasmine flowers (umbellate or single) are collected in corymbs, which, depending on the type of plant, are lateral or apical. The aroma of jasmine is very pleasant and delicate, but in a small room (for example, at home), the smell can become highly concentrated and lead to headaches.
The corolla of a jasmine flower is long, resembling a narrow tube, inside which there are 2 thin threads that grow together and turn into a berry - this is the fruit of the plant, however, it is strictly prohibited to eat it. The color of the flower can be different - white, pink or yellow. The shade directly depends on the type of plant and the area where it grows.
Jasmine - beautiful hanging plant. At proper care the lower part of its stem is gradually covered with wood, so the plant is often used as decorative decoration, which blooms annually and does not require painstaking care.
Jasmine is often confused with the mock orange shrub, which belongs to the Hydrangeaceae family. Here is a photo of a mock orange:
Types and varieties of jasmine, names and photographs.
In nature there are types and varieties of jasmine that differ in color scheme, the structure of the stem, leaves and flowers, as well as the height of the bushes.
Highlight following colors of this plant:
- white jasmine;
- yellow jasmine;
- pink jasmine.
The genus of jasmine currently has about 300 species, each of which has characteristics and nuances in care. The most common types are:
Flattened jasmine (lat. Jasminum decussatum).
This representative of the olive family is a small shrub. The leaves are light green, lanceolate and odd-pinnate. The flowers of this type of jasmine are fragrant, beautiful, and pale purple in color.
Shrub jasmine (lat. Jasminum fruticans) – an upright type of jasmine, which is a bush 1.5 meters high. The stem is flexible, twig-like; the branches are smooth and rather thin. The leaves are usually paired with two leaflets. Shrub jasmine blooms in semi-umbrellas, which are located on the side branches.
Jasmine Lerata (lat. Jasminum leratii).
The height of an adult jasmine bush can reach up to 3.5 meters. Unlike other types of jasmine, Lerata is endowed with green and long stems, dark green lanceolate leaves, as well as small white flowers that have a pleasant minty smell.
Multi-flowered or polyanthus jasmine (lat. Jasminumpolyanthus).
This shrub can be safely called climbing jasmine, since its branches are drooping and very wide. The height of an adult plant is 1-3 meters. The leaves, branches and stems of multifloral jasmine are covered with fine hairs, which give the shrub a gray-green hue. The flowers of this variety of jasmine look like stars and are collected in clusters. They are able to bloom along the entire length of the stem, as well as at its end. This type of jasmine blooms almost all year round, spreading a pleasant aroma.
Medicinal jasmine (white jasmine) (lat. Jasminum officinale) – A climbing type of jasmine, which is endowed with thin, long and angular branches. Leaves are paired, smooth. Fragrant flowers, white, growing on thin stalks. As the name suggests, some parts of this type of jasmine can be used as medicinal raw materials.
Jasmine sambac (Arabic or Indian jasmine) (lat. Jasminum sambac)- an evergreen climbing type of jasmine. The leaves are leathery, simple, oval or ovoid in shape, from 2 to 10 cm long. The flowers of jasmine sambac are white, very fragrant, simple, semi-double or double in shape, collected in few-flowered racemes. Single flowers are less common. The calyx of a jasmine flower is about 1 cm. B favorable conditions Flowering of some varieties can last all year round. The following varieties of jasmine sambac are distinguished: – “Grand Duke of Tuscany”, “Arabian Knights”, “Belle of India”, “Maid of Orleans”, “Mali Chat”.
Chinese jasmine (lat. Jasminum grandiflorum) – an evergreen species of jasmine, which is a shrub or vine up to 10 meters high with bright green leaves and very fragrant white flowers.
Where does jasmine grow?
Jasmine grows in the tropical regions of Australia, South America, Africa, Asia and the Mediterranean region. The shrub grows only in warm climates, because it is only thanks to warmth that the flower blooms and reproduces. There are 2 types of jasmine growing in Europe and Russia - white medicinal jasmine and yellow bush jasmine.
When does jasmine bloom?
Jasmine blooms depending on its type in different time However, most often abundant flowering begins in early or mid-June. Newly planted jasmine bushes begin to bloom in the 2-4th year of their growth, but with proper care and constant feeding, the plant can begin to bloom a little earlier.
Jasmine: cultivation and care. Planting jasmine.
Many gardeners ask the question: “How to plant jasmine?” It is recommended to plant this plant in early spring or at the end of autumn. The jasmine bush grows especially quickly and well on fertile soil, as it does not like stagnant moisture and excessive amounts of groundwater.
Before planting jasmine, it is recommended to dig up the soil well to mix the top and bottom layers. Then you need to dig a hole, the depth of which will be at least 50 cm. In order for jasmine to grow better, it is recommended to sprinkle the bottom of the hole with nitrophoska. When filling the roots, it is worth remembering that the root collar should be deepened no more than 3 cm. After planting, the jasmine bush should be watered abundantly.
If you are planting a bush that is already large in size, you can immediately tie it to a stick dug into the hole so that the jasmine grows even and tall, because many of its species are endowed with flexible stems that initial stage growth may take the wrong position.
Jasmine: care, pruning, watering, feeding.
In order for jasmine to delight you with magnificent flowering every year, it needs care, which consists of proper pruning, watering, feeding the bush and other activities:
- loosening the soil in the root circle– 2 times per summer;
- mulching;
- watering- V summer heat young bush jasmine requires at least 30-40 liters of water in two days, otherwise its leaves will quickly wither;
- removing faded flowers;
- annual thinning and pruning. Since a very dense jasmine bush with many shoots will bloom poorly, it needs to be thinned out, due to which strong young shoots will form, on which many flowers appear. Jasmine can be pruned either in early spring, before the plant has had time to bloom, or after flowering. To rejuvenate the bush, strong jasmine branches are cut to half their length, and less developed ones are cut off right at the ground. After this, the sections must be immediately treated with garden varnish. Throughout the summer, the bush needs to be watered and fed, and next spring– remove new shoots, leaving 2-3 sprouts on each stump. A completely renewed jasmine bush will begin to bloom only after 2 years.
- Feeding jasmine: in the spring the plant should be fed, so wood ash and nitrophoska should be added under the bushes. Jasmine also responds well to fertilizing with organic fertilizers - a bucket of manure should be diluted in water in a ratio of 1:10. For one plant, 15-20 liters of this fertilizer every 20-25 days will be enough. As mineral fertilizing for jasmine, a solution of 10 g of urea, 30 g of superphosphate, 15 g of potassium sulfate diluted in 10 liters of water is suitable.
- Protecting jasmine from pests and diseases: under unsuitable growing conditions, aphids or spider mites may settle on the shrub, which will infect jasmine leaves. To combat insect pests, the diseased plant must be sprayed with a fungicide. Read more about aphids and methods of combating them.
Jasmine propagation.
Answering the question of how to propagate jasmine, it should be noted that there is nothing complicated in this process, because this can be done in several ways:
- root layering;
- dividing the bush;
- cuttings;
- seeds.
If the first two methods do not present any particular problems, then it is worth learning more about propagating jasmine by cuttings and seeds.
In both cases, mixed soil is required, composed of two parts peat and one part each of leaf soil and humus. Lignified cuttings of the first year's growth should be cut in the fall, storing them in a dry basement or cellar, and planting them in the ground in the spring. The lower cut of the jasmine cutting should be oblique, and only 2-3 buds should remain on the soil surface. The soil must be constantly kept moist, and if you place these cuttings in a greenhouse, they will take root even faster.
When propagating by seeds, they must first be stratified (hardened with cold). In March, jasmine seeds should be placed in a container with soil and then lightly sprinkled with sand. Place glass or thick plastic film which will prevent the soil from drying out. Jasmine seeds are often watered with a spray bottle or through a fine sieve, and the glass or film covering is wiped and inverted. After 10 days, seedlings will appear, which will later need to be pruned and protected from strong sun, and when they grow up, transplanted into open ground.
Jasmine attracts with its intoxicating aroma and radiance of its petals. But sometimes, no matter how hard I try caring owner take care of your flower garden, indoor jasmine does not bloom, it withers. Why is this happening?
Why doesn't indoor jasmine bloom?
The reason for this is one of the factors or a combination of them:
- Violation of the thermal regime. If the room temperature is above 24 degrees or below 14, lush flowering can't achieve it. The buds will either fall off immediately after ovary, or will not be able to set at all. To avoid such moments, restore the required temperature to 15-22 degrees. Based on the specific case, you will need to either shade the plant from excessive light and move it away from heating devices, or, conversely, place it closer to the sun.
- Lack of humidity. Jasmine dries, its leaves begin to curl, deform and fall off. You will need more frequent, but not too intense watering (every 1-2 days in summer, twice a week in winter) and air humidification. You should not spray the leaves.
- It happens that buds appear on the bush, but subsequently fall off. The florist is tormented by the question of what happened to his jasmine, but all he had to do was increase the lighting. The first buds form at the end of winter. During this period, it is transferred to a warmer and brighter place. However, you should not place the jasmine pot directly on the windowsill above the radiator. central heating, otherwise you won’t be able to enjoy the fragrant flowering. Place the flowerpot in a well-lit room with diffused light, watch the soil - it should not dry out. Spray the air around the jasmine with water every 2-3 days and soon you will be able to enjoy flowering.
- Hard water. If you use tap water for irrigation, then you should not be surprised why there is still no flowering. The way out of the situation is to let the water for irrigation sit for at least 2 hours or use rain water. Filtering the water won't do anything.
- Soil acidity. Jasmine can grow beautifully, reach luxurious sizes, but never bloom just because the soil in which it grows is completely unsuitable for this. This shrub does not like neutral and alkaline soils. Transplant your jasmine into a different soil mixture: mix turf soil, sand and leaf humus (3/1/1) or purchase special acidic soil from a herbal store.
- Incorrect landing. If the neck of the trunk is buried more than 3 cm into the soil, there will be no flowers on the jasmine. Replant your flower so that the section of the trunk where the plant's roots begin is on the surface.
The correct regime is necessary not only for the luxurious flowering of jasmine. This important conditions for plant life, including growth and development.
Video about home jasmine
Jasmine pests - who are they and how to deal with them?
When indoor jasmine grows and develops normally in your home, it is practically not afraid of diseases. Much more problems delivered by pests. They can start either as a result of failure to care for shrubs, or they can move from other plants in the house.
Carefully! Brought home beautiful flower capable of destroying all nearby flowers. Be attentive to the copies you buy, carefully choose where to sell!
The appearance of pests on a plant can lead to its death. More often than others, indoor jasmine is attacked by spider mites and whiteflies.
Whitefly larvae, green in color, cling to leaves with bottom side. They suck out the cell sap, leaving behind sugary particles. Whitefly-infected leaves begin to curl, then turn yellow and fall off. Large colonies of small white midges accumulate on the plant.
Preparations sold in flower shops are successfully used against whiteflies. The most effective:
- Actellik - 1 ml of the drug per 500 milliliters of settled water,
- Intavir in the same proportion
- Agravertine from 1 ml to 1.5 ml of product per 500 milliliters of water.
Very annoying to jasmine indoor aphids. It entangles the tops of the bush with a thick white cobweb, the places where new leaves are formed. As a result, the growth rate slows down significantly. Without proper care, the plant may stop developing and dry out. You can fight aphids with chemicals, for example, Iskra Bio 2 ml per liter of water.
Pest control at home
You can wash the leaves with a solution of water and laundry (brown) soap (1 half tablespoon of soap grated on a coarse grater per 2 cups), the solution should be room temperature. Such measures give positive results in the fight against ticks and whiteflies.
Video about caring for jasmine
You can defeat aphids and weevils using an infusion of potato tops. Place 2 kg of fresh potato tops in a ten-liter container with water and leave for 10 days. Then the resulting infusion is filtered and sprayed with jasmine leaves every 5 days, no more than three times.
With proper care, indoor jasmine will become your favorite and a real pearl of your flower collection. But because of the intoxicating rich aroma Beware of installing it in the bedroom and children's rooms.
Diseases affect mock orange mainly when the rules of agrotechnical crop care are violated. It is important to promptly remove dying branches and burn falling leaves. If this is not done, then mock orange pests overwinter well in the depths of fallen leaves and in the spring they damage the crop to a significant extent. This page presents the main diseases and pests of mock orange, accompanied by photos with a detailed description of symptoms and signs. Look at mock orange diseases and their treatment in the photo, which illustrates the basic rules for carrying out agrotechnical measures. All diseases and pests of mock orange can be effectively prevented using standard agrotechnical practices. You can find out which ones on this page.
Mock orange diseases and their treatment
Gray rot
Measures to combat gray mold. Collection of fallen leaves, thinning of plants, compliance with the requirements of agricultural cultivation techniques, preventive spraying with one of the preparations: quick, pureflower, keeper, agromedicine. Let us further consider other diseases of mock orange and their treatment with available means.
Septoria spot
The causative agent is the fungus Septoria philadelphi Ell. et Ev. - causes the appearance on the leaves of round brownish spots with a thin dark border, up to 10 mm in diameter. Over time, pinpoint black fruiting bodies form, necrotic tissue becomes lighter, cracks and falls out. Affected leaves dry out and fall off prematurely. The infection persists in plant debris. Control measures. Collection and disposal of plant residues, preventive spraying with Bordeaux mixture or its substitutes.Mock orange pests
bean aphid
Preventive and eradicating spraying with preparations in the spring: fufanon, spark, kinmiks, fitoverm, Inta-Vir.
Hawthorn Aporia crataegi L.
A large butterfly with a wingspan of 50-70mm and with characteristic black veins on white wings. The caterpillars are brownish-gray with short hairs. These mock orange pests overwinter in white cocoons in nests of dried leaves. In the spring they come out and feed, gnawing buds and young leaves. Having finished feeding, they pupate, attaching themselves to the branches with a web. The flight of butterflies is observed in June; they drink nectar en masse and openly flowering plants. After fertilization, the females lay eggs in heaps on the leaves; in July, the caterpillars emerge and feed for a whole month, skeletonizing the leaves, leaving only veins. At the end of July, caterpillars create winter nests and weave cocoons in them. Almost everything is damaged deciduous trees and shrubs. Control measures. Spraying during bud break with drugs: fufanon, spark, kinmiks, Inta-Vir.
The genus Jasmine (Jasminum) unites upright or climbing shrubs of the Olive family. They are densely branched plants with simple, odd-pinnate or trifoliate leaves and very large beautiful flowers. The separate corolla of jasmine flowers is white, reddish or yellow. The tube of most is narrow and long; it contains 2 stamens with rather short filaments. The superior ovary is formed. The fruit is a berry.
DETAILED DESCRIPTION
The genus Jasmine (Jasminum L.) unites, according to various sources, from 210 to 300 species of plants of the Olive family. In nature, they are common in the subtropics and tropics of Asia, Australia, Africa, South America and the Mediterranean.
Jasmines are deciduous or evergreen shrubs, less commonly vines. On their numerous shoots, trifoliate or odd-pinnate leaves are arranged alternately and oppositely.
When flowering, jasmine forms single or umbrella-shaped inflorescences. They can be at the top and on the sides of the shoots. White or yellow flowers They look like small stars and last up to 20 days. As the petals fade, they acquire a purple or reddish tint. The white, yellow or pink corolla looks like a saucer, the tube is cylindrical, with an open mouth.
Selection has produced many double and semi-double forms.
At home and garden conditions grow the following types jasmines. Bees jasmine (Jasminum beesianum Forrest & Diels) is an evergreen shrub or vine up to 2 m long. There are grooves along all the shoots. Dark green, simple, slightly pubescent leaves grow opposite. They are lanceolate or ovoid in shape, slightly pointed. Bees jasmine blooms in May. Flowers are formed at the top of the shoots in groups of 1-3 pieces. Their color is pink or dark pink. Possess pleasant aroma.
Holoflowered jasmine (Jasminum nudiflorum Lindl.) is a not very branching shrub with drooping long shoots, practically not covered with foliage. The bright green small trifoliate leaves mostly fall off in the winter. Large, egg-yellow flowers of naked jasmine are formed from January to April in the axils of leaves located along the entire stem. Grandiflorum jasmine (Jasminum grandiflorum L.) is a species created by man. It is an evergreen shrub or vine, reaching 10 m in length, with bare shoots. Its pinnate leaves are arranged oppositely and consist of 5-7 elliptical or rounded-elliptic leaflets with a point at the top. Large flowers are laid in groups of up to 10 pieces at the top of the shoots. Inflorescences are umbrellas. Most often they are white and fragrant. This jasmine blooms profusely and for a long time (almost all summer and half of autumn). Its flowers are used as a flavoring for tea.
Officinalis jasmine (Jasminum officinale L.) - medium-sized perennial shrub with smooth, long, thin, climbing shoots. Its pointed, lanceolate, smooth leaves are light green on the underside and bright green on top. Their edges are ciliated. Jasmine officinalis blooms in April. Its flowers are white, on long stalks, and fragrant. They are combined in several pieces into umbrella inflorescences. Shrub up to 2 m tall, multi-flowered jasmine (Jasminum polyanthum Franch.) is a weakly branching plant with rather curly shoots and oval leaves, pointed at the top. These dark green leaves, slightly wavy along the edges, are arranged alternately. During flowering, jasmine multiflorum forms a huge number of pink buds, collected at the top of the shoots, 3-5 pieces in groups. They have a fairly narrow tube and a bend with 5 blades. The flowers are very fragrant.
Low or bare jasmine (J. humile L. var. glabrum (DC.) Kobuski) is a not very tall (up to 2 m) shrub with bare shoots and trifoliate leaves, consisting of 5-7 elliptical or ovate leaves. The foliage color is dark green on top and light green on the underside. Umbrella inflorescences form and bloom from June to August and consist of several fragrant flowers. Their corolla is yellow. 
Turned or low jasmine (J. humile L. var. revolutum (Sims) Stokes) is a small bush with compound leaves consisting of 5-7 ovate-rounded leaves. During flowering, averted jasmine forms a multi-flowered inflorescence of medium-sized yellow flowers.
Jasmine sambac or Arabian (J. sambac (L.) Aiton) is an evergreen vine up to 6 m in length with thin pubescent shoots. Its long, ovate leaves, rounded at the base, grow oppositely. They may be slightly pubescent or naked. White flowers of Arabian jasmine are collected in small groups into umbrella inflorescences. They can be terry, semi-double or simple, but always with a pleasant smell. Abundant flowering This jasmine can last from March to October. Highly valued for its decorative qualities.
The finest jasmine (J. gracillimum Hook. f.) may be evergreen shrub or a liana. It is distinguished by thin, pubescent shoots with simple, oval-lanceolate leaves pointed at the apex. They are light green, slightly pubescent on the underside, and arranged oppositely. The finest jasmine blooms abundantly, occurring in the second half of winter - the beginning of spring. Its large white fragrant flowers form umbrella-like inflorescences.
Sometimes jasmines are mistakenly called mock orange (saxifrage family). It also has white flowers with a pleasant aroma, but all other signs point to a different family. The main purpose of jasmine when grown at home is to decorate the garden and room. It is used both as a hanging and as a climbing flowering plant.
CARE Location and lighting
Jasmine loves light, but prefers its diffuse forms. Therefore, western and eastern windows are best suited for him. On a south window, to avoid burns, it is better to shade the plant during the midday hours. When grown with a north orientation, jasmine may not receive enough light to grow and bloom properly.
The plant can easily spend the summer on fresh air on the balcony or in the garden in any place protected from direct sun. If you need to change the light level for jasmine, you need to do it gradually, maintaining an adaptation period. Temperature is not a critical factor for the plant. It can easily tolerate 18-25 degrees during activity and 8-10 degrees during rest.
If you keep it during a warmer winter, the plant may not bloom at all this year. All efforts will be spent on the formation of green mass. To avoid air stagnation, regularly ventilate the room with the plant. Watering B spring-summer period Water the plant abundantly as soon as the soil on top dries out. With the beginning of autumn, watering is reduced, bringing it to a minimum in winter. During cold wintering, it is very easy to overwater the plant, causing stagnation of water. When caring for jasmine, it is better to water with soft (rain, melt or settled) warm water.
Humidity Jasmine grows best in fairly humid air. Therefore, it should be sprayed regularly. It is better to use soft and settled water for this. There is only one limitation for spraying jasmine: it cannot be done during the flowering period. During this period, it is better to place trays with wet sand or expanded clay under the pots. In winter, when kept cold, spraying can destroy the plant.
Soil and replanting
At home, young jasmines are replanted in the spring every year, older ones - every spring or two. For this they use ready soil, having the characteristics: neutral, fairly dense soil with a high content of humus and nutrients.
You can make a mixture yourself from leaf and coniferous soils, deoxidized peat and sand. It will also do well in hydroponics. Feeding Jasmine must be fed before and during flowering. The optimal frequency is once every 7-10 days. To do this, use special complex fertilizers for flowering plants.
Reproduction
Jasmine is propagated mostly by layering or cuttings. Cuttings are harvested in spring or summer. To do this, take lignified shoots with 2-3 internodes at the ends of the branches. They are cut with a sharp blade and planted in a mixture of peat and sand. With lower heating, the cuttings take root quite quickly (1-1.5 months). Then they are transplanted into separate containers in the soil for adult jasmines.
When the roots entwine the soil, transshipment is done. Other The lower part of the bush becomes woody over time, and the upper, thinner shoots begin to need support. Then they are sent along a trellis or tied to something. To extend the flowering time of jasmine, pinch the plant, leaving 6-8 pairs of leaves on the shoot. In February, long shoots are shortened by a third. Dry, weak and underdeveloped branches inside the bush are cut out.
If, when grown at home, jasmine is quite large and blooms profusely, then it is better to take it outside, otherwise strong aroma flowers can cause headaches.
GROWING PROBLEMS, DISEASES, PESTS
Problems with foliage (leaves dry, curl, deform or fall off) most often arise due to insufficient air humidity, poor watering or exposure to direct sun rays. Move the plant to a shaded area, adjust watering and spraying.
If the jasmine has buds, but does not want to bloom, then the plant does not have enough light. And if they suddenly begin to darken, this indicates that the air is too warm and dry.
Among the pests, jasmine can be attacked by aphids, mealybugs, scale insects, spider mites or whiteflies. Use appropriate drugs against them.
Plant stephanotis (lat. Stephanotis), or madagascar jasmine, or Marsdenia, belongs to the Lastovnevy family and is represented in nature by approximately sixteen species. The word "stephanotis" is formed from two Greek words: “stephanos” - crown and “otos” - ear, and the plant was named so because of the similarity of its flowers with a crown of five petals wrapped like ears on a stamen tube. Stephanotis flowers are widespread in China and Japan, Madagascar and Malaysia. Only Stephanotis floribunda (Stephanotis profusely flowering), also known as Stephanotis Madagascar, is grown at home.
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Planting and caring for stephanotis (in brief)
- Bloom: from spring to autumn.
- Lighting: bright sunlight in the morning and bright diffused light in the afternoon. The window sill needs a wide one. Additional lighting will be required, since stephanotis is a long-day plant.
- Temperature: during the growing season - no higher than 25 ˚C, in winter - 15-16 ˚C.
- Watering: in the warm season - once every 2-3 days, in winter - once a week.
- Air humidity: increased. In hot weather, the plant requires spraying the leaves with water and wiping them with a damp sponge, but you need to make sure that water does not get on the buds and flowers.
- Feeding: twice a month from March to August alternately organic and mineral fertilizers with a predominance of potassium. In winter and autumn, the plant does not need fertilizing.
- Rest period: after flowering, usually in winter.
- Trimming: moderate, early spring.
- Pinching: in summer in order to stimulate the plant to flower for a long time.
- Garter: young shoots are directed in the right direction and tied to a support before they begin to become stiff.
- Transfer: young plants are transferred from pot to pot once every two years; adults are not bothered with replanting, but they are changed in pots annually upper layer substrate.
- Reproduction: seeds and cuttings.
- Pests: aphids, scale insects, mealybugs, fungus gnats and spider mites.
- Diseases: powdery mildew, rot of the roots and base of the stem.
- Properties: The waxy flowers of the plant do not wither for a long time, and they are used to make wedding bouquets.
Read more about growing stephanotis below.
Stephanotis flower - description
The stephanotis flower is an evergreen vine up to five meters in length with leathery oval dark green leaves located oppositely along the stem and reaching a length of seven to nine and a width of four to five centimeters. The leaves are entire, rounded at the base and with a pointed apex. Fragrant funnel-shaped crown flowers up to four centimeters long and about five in diameter, depending on the type, white, cream, yellowish or light purple in color, grow in bunches of up to 7 pieces in an inflorescence; under natural conditions, the flowering of stephanotis lasts up to 10 months. Stephanotis fruits are large elliptical capsules, which crack after ripening and parachute seeds scatter from them, like those of a dandelion.
The stephanotis houseplant blooms with white or cream waxy flowers. Stephanotis flowers, which do not fade for a long time, are often used to decorate wedding dresses and make bouquets for brides.
In the photo: Stephanotis flowers
Caring for stephanotis at home
How to care for stephanotis
The indoor stephanotis flower is quite finicky, so caring for stephanotis will require your attention, time and effort. A narrow, poorly lit window sill will not suit it: a fast-growing and abundantly branching vine requires space and a lot of light, but at midday, direct sunlight can leave burns on the leaves of the plant, so it is advisable to shade stephanotis at this time of day. In addition, this plant needs long daylight hours, so be prepared to provide additional lighting during seasons with long nights.
The temperature regime for stephanotis should be as follows: so that the plant does not overheat in summer, that is, the room temperature should not rise above 25 ºC, and in winter stephanotis is comfortable in cooler conditions - at 15 ºC, especially since after a cool winter, stephanotis blooms more abundantly and longer.
In the photo: Growing stephanotis in a pot
Caring for an indoor stephanotis flower includes regular watering of the plant with settled water at room temperature: in the summer - every two days, in the winter - once a week. Stephanotis at home requires high humidity air, so in spring and summer you will have to often spray the leaves of the plant with soft, non-cold water or wipe them with a damp sponge. Try hard so that when spraying water does not fall on flowers or buds. In winter, when they work heating devices, keep the pot of stephanotis on a tray with wet pebbles or moss.
Caring for a stephanotis flower also involves alternately adding minerals and organic fertilizers twice a month from March to August. You need to start feeding when the first signs appear active growth and only if the plant has not been replanted for a long time, since fresh soil contains enough macro- and microelements for the plant. When feeding, preference is given to potassium fertilizers over nitrogen fertilizers, especially before and during flowering. Autumn and winter indoor flower stephanotis is not fed.
Pictured: Stephanotis in a hanging basket
Try not to rearrange or even rotate the blooming stephanotis, otherwise it may drop both flowers and buds. You cannot move the plant from the moment when buds begin to appear on it.
Stephanotis pruning
Since stephanotis blooms only on new shoots, it is pruned moderately in early spring before growth begins, and in summer the shoots are pinched so that flowering lasts longer. In addition, it is very important to start tying the plant shoots to the support while they are young and flexible, since adult shoots become lignified and it becomes difficult to direct them in the desired direction. Most often, an arch is used as a support.
Stephanotis transplant
Young stephanotis are transferred from pot to pot every two to three years at the end of winter. For adult plants, the top layer of the substrate is changed annually and care is taken to ensure that the support firmly holds the stephanotis shoots. The plant prefers heavy soils, and before replanting stephanotis, you need to prepare a soil mixture for it.
The approximate composition of the mixture could be: three parts peat or humus, two parts sand and one part each of clay and deciduous soil. The soil pH should be at 5.5-6.5.
The pot for stephanotis is chosen to be spacious; a decent layer of drainage material is placed at the bottom of the pot.
Stephanotis propagation
Propagation of stephanotis by cuttings
Stephanotis reproduces best apical cuttings several internodes long - they can be obtained by pruning the plant in early spring. Get ready for the fact that the rooting of stephanotis cuttings will take a long time, a month to a month and a half. Before planting, the lower sections of the cuttings are treated with growth stimulants (Kornevin or Epin), then they are immersed half their length in a container with a mixture of peat and sand, a greenhouse is built above the container and placed in a warm place, protected from direct sunlight. The temperature for rooting should be 27-30 ºC, it is advisable to use the bottom heating of the greenhouse.
Be sure to air the cuttings daily.
When rooting occurs, several cuttings are planted in one container with nutrient loose soil and form as they grow, and when the shoots reach half a meter in length, they are cut by a third to enhance branching.
In the photo: Using a support to support stephanotis
Propagation of stephanotis by seeds
It is also possible, but this is a very long and difficult process, and most importantly, it rarely gives results. Stefanotis is generally difficult to reproduce at home, so it is better to use a more reliable method of propagation - vegetative.
Stephanotis pests and diseases
Insect pests and diseases
The enemies of stephanotis are aphids, scale insects, spider mites, and mealybugs. To combat the first two, treatment is used biological drug With Akarin, in case of severe infection, spraying with Actellik or Fitoverm is used.
Ticks are destroyed by the drug Kleschevit. The mealybug dies after spraying the plant two or three times with a two percent Phosfamide emulsion.
Sometimes stephanotis is affected by powdery mildew, which is treated with a solution of the drug Hom at the rate of 4 ml per liter of water.
In the photo: Flowering vine stephanotis
Stephanotis turns yellow
Before deciding what to do if stephanotis turns yellow, you should find out the cause of this phenomenon. If stephanotis leaves turn yellow, then the main reason is always the same - your oversight or violation of the rules of care, namely: watering the plant with water containing lime, or allowing the light-loving stephanotis to vegetate in a poorly lit place. Sometimes Staphanotis reacts to replanting in this way or signals to you that you haven’t fertilized it for a long time. Correct your mistakes and, in order not to make them again or to avoid making any others, re-read the rules for caring for stephanotis again.
Stephanotis does not bloom
If you have a question, why doesn't stephanotis bloom, We will offer you several reasons to choose from.
- Firstly, stephanotis may not bloom if it has overwintered in a warm place.
- Secondly, there will be no flowering if the plant is overfed with nitrogen.
- Thirdly, if the plant does not have enough light.
- Fourthly, stephanotis can fall into a stupor from a sharp temperature change.
Think about which of the above may be causing the problem, and it will not be difficult for you to figure out what to do if stephanotis does not bloom.
In the photo: Stephanotis in the garden
Stephanotis leaves are falling off
In winter, usually some of the leaves turn yellow and fall off, and this is normal: stephanotis does not like that the days are getting shorter, it does not have enough light. The plant may lose up to 50% of its foliage, but in the spring, when the plant emerges from dormancy, new growth will develop from the axillary points.
Another reason for leaf falling may be draft or hypothermia. Remember, in winter stephanotis should be kept at a temperature not lower than 14-15 ºC, but not near a window open for ventilation.
Stephanotis - signs
Is it possible to keep stephanotis at home?
Many people believe that stephanotis, like ivy, is a muzhegon, that is, it is assumed that if you have stephanotis in your house, you risk being left without a husband. As for me, it’s not a wonderful husband who drives him out of the house fragrant flower, but dirt, an empty refrigerator and a bad wife. There is another sign: if the capricious stephanotis blooms, the girl living in the house will get married. But this is all from the realm of prejudices, in which some believe and others do not. We want to warn you that stephanotis juice is poisonous, so all work with the plant should be done with gloves. And it is better to keep it away from animals and children.