Why does begonia not bloom, but only produce foliage? Blooming begonia is the queen of indoor plants. Home flowers begonia.

Begonia is one of the most popular and valuable indoor plants, as it is loved not only for its bright and lush flowers, but also for its unusual asymmetrical leaves. Under natural conditions, begonia is found in the tropical forests of America, Africa and Asia, but it is quite easy to grow at home.

In this article we will look at not only the most popular begonia varieties for home cultivation, but also the main features of caring for the plant.

Home begonia: plant description

From the point of view of botanical classification, there are about a thousand varieties of the crop. In addition, breeders have bred more than two thousand hybrids of this crop.

Figure 1. Species diversity of the crop

This diversity of species significantly complicates the description of the plant. For example, indoor species may have flexible shoots or resemble the shape of a small shrub (Figure 1). In addition, depending on the variety, flowers can be annual or perennial. There are also evergreen and deciduous varieties. The only common characteristics are asymmetrical leaves and lush, bright inflorescences.

Caring for begonia at home

Regardless of the variety, the flower should be provided optimal conditions growing at home. Since this crop is tropical, indoors it needs to be provided with conditions that will resemble its natural growing environment.

How to care

The basis for successful crop care at home is consistency. The flower reacts negatively to frequent rearrangements, so when buying a plant in a store, immediately think about where it will stand (Figure 2).

Note: Since under natural conditions the flower is found in the tropics, it is better to place it in a well-lit place, but without exposure to direct sun rays. This lighting mode can be achieved by placing the pot on an eastern or western windowsill.

The room temperature should be moderate, about +18 degrees, regardless of the season. However, in summer, when the room is hot, the crop will not experience serious discomfort.

Figure 2. Basic stages of flower care

It should also be taken into account that this crop is very sensitive to air humidity. As a rule, spraying is carried out to increase humidity, but for begonia this procedure is contraindicated, since water getting on the leaves of the crop can cause the formation of dark spots. To increase air humidity, it is recommended to use special air humidifiers, or place the pot in a tray with wet expanded clay.

In addition, it should be borne in mind that the culture has a negative attitude towards drafts and cold air. Under such conditions, the plant may become sick or begin to shed its leaves.

Pots and soil

When planning to grow this flower, you should choose a pot in which the flower will grow. When selecting a container, keep in mind that it should be only a few centimeters larger than the diameter earthen coma, as in large pots root system crops may suffer from excess moisture, and the plant itself will be slower to form buds.

The soil must be special, so it is better to buy it in a store. But, if desired, you can prepare it yourself by mixing two parts of leaf soil with one part of peat, sand and humus.

Landing

When planting a flower in a pot, you must take care to remove excess moisture from the roots. To do this, a drainage layer is placed at the bottom of the container, and on top it is covered with a layer of charcoal, which acts as a disinfectant material that prevents root rot.

Next, a seedling is placed in the center of the container along with a lump of earth, and the free space is filled with substrate. After this, the flower must be watered and placed in a permanent, well-lit place.

Watering

Watering must be balanced. In other words, the earthen clod should not be allowed to dry out or become waterlogged.

Despite the fact that begonia is a moisture-loving plant, it should not be watered too often or abundantly. It is much more important to maintain an optimal level of humidity in the room. Dry air can cause leaves to dry out.

IN summer time When it’s hot outside, watering should be quite abundant, but it is important to ensure that the water does not stagnate at the roots. Determining that your pet needs watering is very simple. To do this, just check the soil moisture: if it has dried to a depth of one and a half centimeters, the flower can be watered. IN winter time Watering is kept to a minimum, avoiding waterlogging and freezing of the roots.

Fertilizer

It is impossible to imagine growing indoor crops without timely application of fertilizers. The type of fertilizer depends on the plant variety. For decorative flowering species They use complex fertilizers, which are applied during the formation of buds, as well as phosphorus-potassium fertilizers, which are used during the formation of ovaries.

Decorative deciduous species require nitrogen supplements, which help the plant grow green mass faster.

Transfer

Care in mandatory includes regular replanting of the plant. It is better to carry out the procedure in early spring, when the plant is just beginning to emerge from the vegetative dormancy stage, and will not experience serious stress from replanting.

Note: You can determine that your flower needs replanting by the appearance of the plant. If its roots begin to protrude above the surface of the soil or hang out of the pot, it is time to move the flower to a larger container.

Transplantation is carried out using the transshipment method (Figure 3). The plant is carefully removed from the pot, the roots are cleaned of old soil and placed for 30 minutes in a weak solution of potassium permanganate. Next, you need to rinse the roots under running water and trim off all damaged parts. After this, the root system should dry out. Only after this can the culture be moved to a new pot.

Figure 3. Step-by-step transplant plants

It is important that after transplanting the crops must be put back in their original place and the first time after the procedure the crop must be watered abundantly. It should also be taken into account that young specimens tolerate transplantation much better, while adult plants experience serious stress from this procedure. In addition, large bushes can be difficult to replant, so during the process it is better to divide the bush into several parts and plant them in separate containers.

Begonia in winter

Winter care depends on the type of plant. For example, bush and decorative types a long rest period is needed, during which the crop will begin to form new flower buds. To do this, you need to maintain a stable temperature in the room at +15+22 degrees, and also install air humidifiers or hang wet towels over the radiators, which will increase the level of humidity in the room.

In tuberous varieties, the period of vegetative dormancy begins in autumn. During this period, the leaves begin to gradually dry out and fall off, so watering should be kept to a minimum. When the above-ground part of the plant has completely dried out, stop watering, and the pots with tubers are transferred to a dark room and stored at a temperature no higher than +10+15 degrees. In some cases, tuberous species show no signs of entering vegetative dormancy, so you need to let the plant rest on its own. For this aboveground part crops are cut and watering is stopped.

Indoor begonia - propagation

When growing this crop at home, you should familiarize yourself with information about its propagation to obtain young specimens of the plant. Features of reproduction will be discussed in more detail below.

How to propagate begonia

There are two main methods of propagation - seeds and vegetatively. At home, it is better to use the vegetative method, since it is much simpler and more effective, and for this purpose you can use not only dividing the bush and tubers, but also leaf and stem cuttings.

Growing from seeds

Despite the fact that growing begonia from seeds is considered an unpopular method, it is relatively simple and not labor-intensive.

When the flowering period is over, you should collect the seeds and save them until February or March. During this period, sowing is carried out, evenly distributing the seeds over the surface of the soil. After this, the bed should be sprayed with water, covered with film or glass and placed in a warm, well-lit place.

Seedlings need to be sprayed with water daily or watered through a tray. When the first shoots appear, the cover is removed, and after the formation of 3-4 true leaves, the sprouts should be picked into separate containers. In two months the sprouts will become stronger and can be transplanted into a permanent pot. With proper care and good lighting, flowering of a crop grown from seeds occurs already in the first year.

Reproduction by dividing the rhizome (tuber)

To propagate deciduous varieties, the rhizome division method is used. The procedure is carried out in early spring, until the plant has entered the active growth phase.

Figure 4. Reproduction by dividing the bush

To propagate a plant using this method, you need to extract mature plant from the pot and divide into several parts (Figure 4). It is important to ensure that each part contains not only a fragment of the rhizome, but also several shoots or buds. After this, all sections must be treated with crushed coal and placed in separate containers.

Propagation by cuttings

Cuttings are one of the most effective ways to propagate indoor plants, and begonia is no exception. To prepare cuttings, you need to cut shoots with several leaves, and treat all sections with crushed coal for disinfection.

After this, the cuttings are immersed in a substrate of sand, deciduous and peat soil in equal proportions and placed in a warm, well-lit place. It is important to ensure that the cuttings are not exposed to direct sunlight.

Figure 5. Features of plant cuttings

Caring for cuttings includes regular but moderate watering, which is carried out after the soil has dried 1-2 cm deep. If you do not have a special rooting substrate, you can simply place the cuttings in water. Regardless of the chosen rooting method, the process of root formation takes no more than a month, after which the sprouts can be planted in separate containers (Figure 5).

Leaf propagation

Most varieties of the crop have fairly large leaves, which can also be used for propagation, and a young crop can be grown not only from a whole leaf, but also from part of it (Figure 6).

Figure 6. Growing a flower from a leaf

If you are using a whole sheet, it inside you need to make cuts (along the main veins) and place the leaf on wet sand with the cuts down. The substrate's moisture should be maintained through a pan of water.

The process of root formation takes about two months. During this time, young roots are formed at the site of the cuts, which gradually turn into young plants. When they begin to actively grow, they can be planted in separate pots filled with a mixture of peat, sand and deciduous soil in equal proportions.

Pests and diseases of begonia

Begonia, like other indoor plants, can be damaged by diseases and pests. Of the pests, the flower is most often affected by thrips and spider mites. These insects feed on the sap of the plant and gradually weaken it. If measures are not taken in time and treatment with insecticides is not carried out, the crop may completely die.

Among diseases, the crop is most often affected by fungal diseases (for example, powdery mildew) and gray rot. Such diseases occur if the plant was not properly cared for, in particular, if it was watered too often and abundantly. To eliminate the disease, you need to reduce watering and treat with fungicides.

Sometimes the bush becomes a victim of bacterial diseases - cucumber mosaic, wilt or spotting. There are no cures for these diseases, so the plant will have to be destroyed along with the earthen clod.

Begonia dries

There are situations when there are no signs of disease or pest damage, but begonia still loses its decorative effect. For example, its leaves may begin to dry out. This process is caused by high temperature and low humidity of air and soil.

To restore the health of the plant, it needs to be watered and moved to a cooler place. To increase air humidity, the flower pot should be placed in a tray with wet expanded clay.

Begonia turns yellow

The yellowing of the flower may vary. If the leaves begin to appear yellow spots or rings, this indicates a bacterial infection. There is no point in treating such a plant, so it is simply destroyed.

If all the leaves begin to turn yellow and wither, this means that the soil in the pot is too wet and the plant itself is cold. Watering should be temporarily stopped, and the flower should be moved to a warmer room.

Types and varieties of begonia

There are many types and varieties of this crop, and it is difficult to give a clear classification of the crop (Figure 7).

Popular types of begonia include:

Tuberous: may have simple or double inflorescences, the shade of which varies from white and yellow to bright red and orange;
Everblooming: this type considered the most popular in indoor floriculture. Externally, the plant resembles a small shrub, and it can be grown not only at home, but also in open ground. The flowers are small and may be white, pink or red;
Royal: refers to decorative deciduous species. The leaves are large and can reach 30 cm in length, and their shape depends on the variety or hybrid;
Ampelnaya: considered a subspecies of tuberous varieties. Most often used as decorative culture For vertical gardening. The length of the shoots can reach 50 cm, and during the flowering period they are covered with numerous small flowers of white, yellow, orange or crimson hue.

Figure 7. Popular types of begonia: 1 - tuberous, 2 - ever-flowering, 3 - royal, 4 - ampelous

It should be borne in mind that in addition to the main types of begonia, there are about 2 thousand hybrids of this crop, so choosing a suitable flower variety for home cultivation will not be difficult.

The video shows how to plant the popular tuberous begonia.

Begonia is an indoor plant that blooms not only in summer, but also in winter. It is either a completely herbaceous plant (up to 3 cm high) or a tall, dense shrub. Decorative deciduous species have very beautiful, developed foliage, of various sizes and shades of green. A plant can have one large or many small leaves. At the same time, their flowers are not expressive and small.

A characteristic feature is the asymmetry of the sheet, one side is always less than the second. Flowering begonia species, on the contrary, have large, bright flowers with a range of different shades of warm colors. They can be regular or terry in shape, resembling roses. Thanks to various crossings, a huge number of species of this beauty are known today.

Types and varieties of begonia

- has no stem, and the leaves grow directly from the rhizome on long stalks. Propagated by leaf division and cuttings. This type is used to decorate window sills and balconies (loggias). Among the most popular types the following are known:

The leaves reach 30 cm in height (adult shoots), are heart-shaped, asymmetrical, have an unusual, heterogeneous color, red, brown and green. The flowers are removed from this plant; they are small and their presence slows down the growth of leaves, but it is the leaves that are the main accent of this species.

Masoniana or Mason's begonia on a light green heart-shaped sheet, a dark green pattern in the form of a five-fingered cross is drawn. It looks very unusual. The leaves are about 15-20 cm long.

Metallica or metallic begonia branching bushes of this species reach one and a half meters in height. The stems are reddish, and the leaves (10-15 cm) are dark green with reddish veins and a metallic sheen. Growing all year round, but more active in summer and spring.

– a low-growing plant with bright pink flowers, blooms late.

It has a pink stem and large, sharp, finger-like, green leaves with light veins. Reminds me of hogweed leaves.

– has a thick stem covered with red hairs. The leaves are large with serrated edges. The plant reaches a meter in height.

– a small plant in the form of a bush (20-25 cm). The leaves are small, dark green with light spots.

Leaves unusual shape with velvet surface. They are dark green almost black in color.

– has a cranked stem, somewhat reminiscent of a bamboo trunk. Reproduction occurs by cuttings, seeds and shoots (from the top). Such flowers are more suitable for home cultivation, as they take root better in indoors. Some of the types:

It has a long flowering period, which is why it gained its popularity. It has a glossy leaf surface, green or reddish in color. The flowers are small: white, red and pink. It can be propagated from seeds and grown both in the garden and at home. Indoor begonia can delight its owners with flowering almost all year round. It is periodically replanted by cuttings (every three years), as over time it loses its attractiveness.

- a large plant with rich red inflorescences that grow in dense bunches. The leaves are smooth, glossy, oval shape.

– quite a large species, leaves are 10-15 cm long, have white spots. The flowers are bright pink.

Differs from others, small, decorative leaves And small flowers, hanging in the form of milk mushrooms. The flowers are bright red. Blooms from December to March.

– an ideal decoration for personal plots, gardens and parks. It blooms from June to October, and in closed greenhouses ( winter gardens, greenhouses) and until the first frost. Does not like drafts and strong winds, and is also afraid of direct sunlight.

It differs from other members of the family in the presence of a large tuberous rhizome, from which large translucent stems grow with heart-shaped leaves with a slightly fleecy surface. Inflorescences of various colors. The following types can be found:

It has curly flowers and well-branched, slightly bent shoots. They are used in landscape design for decorating various hanging structures.

Ampelous begonia has an advantage over others in continuous flowering. It is hung in flowerpots from which they hang a large number of inflorescences tightly fitting a stem 20-40 cm long. It can be white, crimson, orange, yellow, and sometimes two-colored.

The diameter of the flowers reaches 25 cm.

Among garden and home begonias, there are species that are used only in indoor floriculture, for example, Begonia Elatior . The tuberous hybrid has rather fragile shoots with a reddish tint that require additional support. White, pink, orange, yellow, red and their various shades (usually two-color), inflorescences (6-7 cm in diameter) bloom at any time of the year. Leaves with a glossy surface, rounded in shape. The bush reaches 30-35 cm.

The height of the bush is about half a meter. Leaves are dark green, wavy at the edges (7-10 cm). Flowers: white, pink and red.

A characteristic feature of this continuously flowering plant is delicate flower, having a wavy petal shape, white with a pink border and a bright yellow core.

Begonia care at home

The plant is quite light-loving; flowering species especially need light. But direct sunlight must be avoided, otherwise burns will appear on the leaves.

Therefore, on the street they should be shaded, and in the apartment they should be displayed on the eastern or western windows, and on hot summer days they should be hidden deeper in the room, or the windows should be protected with special paper or film. Turn the pot from time to time, changing the sides of the flower lighting. A temperature of 20-24°C in summer and not lower than 15°C can be called comfortable.

Watering begonias

Since begonia by origin tropical plant then she loves high humidity. You cannot spray the leaves, otherwise they will begin to deteriorate (become covered with brown spots). Therefore, if the plant lacks moisture (for example, in hot weather), place it in a large tray on a stand and pour in water (so that it does not touch the bottom of the pot) and pour some expanded clay into it. By evaporating, the water will provide the necessary humidity around the flower.

Watering is necessary with plenty of settled water, but do not allow water to linger in the pan. The watering regime is adjusted depending on the season, as soon as upper layer soil (1.5-2 cm) dries out - water. In winter, watering is sharply reduced, and tuberous species that hibernate are not watered at all, but placed in peat.

Fertilizers for begonias

Fertilizing is carried out 1-2 times a week during the period of active flowering. Nitrogen-rich fertilizers are used for deciduous begonias, as they improve leaf growth but slow down flowering.

Transplanting begonias at home

Replanting is carried out as needed, for example, if a flower becomes cramped in a pot, it can be moved to a more spacious one. A favorable time for transplantation is the beginning of spring.

The plant is taken out of the pot, carefully freed from old land(it’s a huge mistake to move a flower into a new pot with old soil and sprinkle it with new soil). You need to act carefully so as not to damage the roots and stems. To remove sand, you can use a light solution of potassium permanganate by dipping the roots there for a couple of minutes.

After this, weak spots will become noticeable (if there is rotting, then they should be cut off). The cleaned plant is placed in a new substrate. Watering after transplantation is frequent. The soil is not poured to the top; you need to wait until the roots dry and then add more.

You should not expose just the transplanted begonia directly to the sun (the flower needs time to adapt, about a month). In addition, the begonia is trimmed a little to form a new, fresh crown.

Soil for begonia

The soil has no special requirements. You can buy it at a flower shop or prepare it yourself. A little sand is laid out at the bottom, then the pot is filled halfway with leaf soil and a mixture of peat and black soil (1:1) is added.

If you prepare the soil correctly, the begonia will delight the eye with abundant, bright growth and flowering, the colors will be rich, the leaves will be juicy and healthy, and the trunk will be thick and strong.

Tuberous begonia winter storage

As soon as the first frosts arrive, the harvesting of tuberous begonias for storage begins. To do this, the upper part is cut off, leaving only 3-4 cm. It is dug up without clearing the roots from the ground, and folded into storage boxes.

When the tubers are dry, remove the remaining shoots and spread soil with peat around them. Store in a dry, dark place, at a temperature not lower than 10°C. As for ever-flowering species, there is no wintering period as such.

Begonia leaf propagation

When propagating by leaf cuttings, the strongest and healthiest leaf is selected and cut into several parts along the veins, so that each specimen has 2-3 veins. After which they are laid out on the surface of wet sand and covered with film or a plastic bag. It is necessary to spray the sand periodically.

When young leaves appear, gradually accustom the plant to room air, open for 10-15 minutes and close again, increasing the interval every day.

Propagation of begonias by stem cuttings

This method is suitable for any type of begonia with a stem. To do this, cut the best cutting 7-8 cm with 2-3 leaves, the lower ones must be removed, and the large upper ones must be cut in half. Treat the cut area with charcoal.

In a prepared pot with a mixture of sand and soil for begonias (1:1), insert the cutting into the previously made hole with a stick, deepening it to the leaves. Cover with cut plastic bottle. Within a month, new leaves will appear. Gradually accustom the plant to air. It will start blooming in a couple of months.

Begonia propagation by dividing the bush

Begonias that grow as bushes can be propagated using rhizomes. To do this, remove the plant from the soil, soak the roots a little in water, then carefully divide the rhizome into parts so that each has a bud or sprout.

Excess, dried leaves and inflorescences are removed, and the cut points are treated with charcoal. Plant in pots and water.

Begonia from seeds

Not the most popular method, since not all seeds germinate or are viable, but it is still used.

Seeds are sown in a pre-prepared substrate, without covering them with soil, sprayed and covered with film or glass (opening occasionally to prevent waterlogging).

After thinning, wait until the sprouts get stronger and transplant them into separate pots.

Propagation of tuberous begonia

In autumn, the leaves on the begonia are cut off, the tubers are taken out of the ground, cleaned from the ground and dried. In February-May, the tubers are cut into several parts (two, three), but so that roots and sprouts remain on each.

The cut side is sprinkled with charcoal and placed in peat (not deepening it too much, a small part should be on the surface), making sure that it does not dry out. The temperature should not drop (10-12°C). The germination process is very slow, you need to be patient.

And considering that the popular plant can be grown not only in the garden, but also in an indoor pot, you can admire the beauty of the flower all year round. It would seem that such splendor requires special care and constant attention from the grower. By no means, begonia is a relatively unpretentious crop. Basic knowledge of planting and caring for a plant will ensure a 100% positive result. To learn how to properly plant and grow begonia at home, read the article.

Home begonia, plant description

Begonia is a well-known and beloved cultivated plant from the extensive Begoniaceae family. The plant is rightfully recognized as one of the most popular decorative deciduous and decorative flowering crops.

The genus of begonias is represented by a variety of species and varieties, differing in both external and morphological characteristics. Thus, begonias are annual and perennial, herbaceous plants and shrubs, with creeping and tuberous rhizomes. External signs also striking.
The habitat of begonia is widespread throughout the world. In natural natural environment, the plant is found in South America, India, Africa and Asia. Spectacular flowering begonia can most often be found in tropical rainforests, mountains and regions with a subtropical climate.
One of the main advantages of cultivated begonia is its bright and lush inflorescences. Same-sex culture, begonias have female and male flowers grow side by side on the same plant. The color of the inflorescences is varied: there are yellow, pink, red, white flowers.

An equally spectacular decoration of begonia is considered to be asymmetrical, unusually colored foliage of various shapes and textures. Wherein characteristic feature of all begoniaceae is a leaf blade with outlines resembling a heart in shape.

The stem of the plant is thick and fleshy. The rhizome is massive, tuberous or creeping.
The begonia flower is a very heat-loving plant that prefers moderate diffused lighting and light, fertile soil. These factors are important to consider when planting begonias.

Use of begonia for home

Begonia grown at home is a fascinating sight, and pleasant aroma only enhances the effect of the overall impression.
Begonia can be grown at home, both in open ground and protected (in pots). Tuberous begonias grow outdoors, on garden plots and flower beds. Homemade rhizomatous begonia is more suitable as indoor plants decorating window sills and balcony areas.

Indoor begonia blooms all year round, regardless of the time of year. Decorative foliage species differ unusually beautiful foliage, various shapes and shades of green. At the same time, a certain pattern can be traced: the “richer” the begonia foliage, the smaller and more inconspicuous its flowers, and vice versa.
Garden forms of begonia have also become widespread. The highly decorative appearance allowed the plant to quickly win the love of flower growers and landscape designers Worldwide.

Landscaping premises, creating unusually bright garden compositions, planting in flower pots or hanging pots, using the plant as a ground cover or for decorating walls, gazebos, windows - this is not the entire list of decorative uses of begonia.

Classification of indoor begonias

Given the huge number of species (about 1600) and varietal diversity begonias, there are several classification options for this plant.

Based on their external morphological characteristics, there are 2 types of begonias: deciduous - ornamental and beautifully flowering plants.
According to the structure of the root system, begonias are divided into 3 types: rhizomatous, tuberous and crops with a superficial root system.
Begonia is often classified depending on the characteristics of the shoot and the growth of the crop. In such a system, 4 groups are distinguished: bushy begonias with an erect stem, begonias with rhizomatous lodging shoots, begonias with creeping thin shoots, beautifully flowering begonias.
In floriculture of indoor crops, begonias are divided into 3 groups: decorative-flowering indoor begonias, decorative foliage indoor begonias, decorative flowering potted begonias.

Currently, there are thousands of varieties and hybrid forms of begonia.

Types and varieties of indoor begonias

Let's consider the most famous and popular types and varieties of begonias grown at home.

Group of decorative deciduous begonias

Begonia royal- one of the most beautiful begonias, on the basis of which many decorative and deciduous hybrid varieties have been bred. It is distinguished by large, heart-shaped, asymmetrical foliage with jagged edges. The color of the leaf blade can be brown, crimson, purple with contrasting splashes or spots. Pink flowers small and inconspicuous.

The best varieties of the species are considered:

Cartagena - has round leaves, wrapped as if “in a shell”. The color of the leaf blade is unusual: the dark green general background is dotted with pink-silver spots, and the middle of the leaf changes during growth from brown to purple.
Hallelujah - distinguished by lilac leaves twisted into a spiral, with a bluish tint. The edges and core of the leaf are cherry-colored, the rest is covered with silvery splashes and a bright wide green stripe.
Silver Greenheart is a variety with silvery, beveled, heart-shaped leaves. A green border frames the leaf blade along the entire edge.
Evening Glow is a variety with a predominance of bright crimson shades on the leaves.

Mikado is a tall variety with large leaves painted in contrasting tones: a dark purple patterned center gives way to light green tones. There is a clear border along the edge of the sheet.

Begonia tiger - a low plant with a creeping stem and green leaves mottled with dark spots. Small, soft pink flowers are collected in loose inflorescences.

The most beautiful varieties:

Tiger is a low-growing (up to 10 cm) variety, with velvety patterned leaves.
Cleopatra is a variety characterized by changes in leaf color depending on the lighting. The lower part of the leaf is painted in red or burgundy tones.

Begonia coral – subshrub reaching up to room conditions height up to 1 meter. Stems are bare and erect. The foliage is oblong, with jagged edges. The leaf blade is a rich dark green color on top, with silver inclusions, and light green underneath. The flowers are collected in a raceme inflorescence.

Popular varieties:

President Carnot has shield-shaped leaves, dissected at the base. The foliage color is green with light spots.
Alfalfa has large, toothed leaves that are red on the underside of the leaf.

Group of decorative flowering begonias

Begonia everblooming- a bush reaching a height of about 60 cm. The erect stem takes on an ampelous shape with age. The leaves are small, slightly pubescent, round in shape. Flowers can be simple or double, white, red or pink. The inflorescences quickly fade and are replaced by new flowers.

The best varieties:

Gustav Knaake is a beautiful spreading bush with green foliage and red edges. Small bright red flowers are collected in inflorescences.
Bikola is a low-growing (up to 20 cm) bush that blooms with white-pink inflorescences.
Carmen is a medium-growing variety with brown foliage and many bright crimson flowers.

Orania is a neat low bush with green foliage bordered by a red stripe and bright orange-carmine flowers.

Begonia elatior - a favorite of indoor begonias, characterized by bright and abundant flowering. The bushes are compact, no more than 40-45 cm high, with a thick, strong stem and small oblong (8-10 cm) leaves. The upper part of the sheet is glossy, the lower part is matte and light.

Known varieties:

Schwabenland is a tall variety with profusely blooming bright scarlet flowers.
Rose is a variety distinguished by double flowers of deep purple shades.
Renaissance is a tall variety with double, carmine-colored flowers. It is distinguished by lush flowers with corrugated wavy petals.

Begonia ampelous- mostly garden form begonia. The species is characterized by drooping shoots with many flowers different sizes, depending on the variety. Flowers of different colors (red, yellow, white) and texture (double, simple, semi-double).

The most popular varieties:

Gale - forms a large spreading bush with small, soft pink flowers.
Christie - distinguished by double white flowers and hanging shoots.
Roxana is a compact bush with double orange flowers.

Begonia tuberous- a universal group of begonias grown in the garden, on the balcony or in indoor pots. The main feature of this plant species is the presence of a tuberous rhizome. The inflorescences of different shades resemble a small rose in shape, the flowering is lush and abundant.

Popular varieties:

Crispa white-red - has flowers of red-white tones with a yellow core.
Dark Red - distinguished by matte, dark cherry inflorescences.

Separately, it is worth noting the modern decorative flowering hybrid varieties of begonias, which have gained wide popularity among flower growers. These include the following varieties: “Harlequin”, “Gold Dress”, “Crispa Marginata”, “Camellia Flora”, “Marmorata”, “Diana Vinyard”, “Ami Jean Bard”.

Reproduction of begonia at home

Depending on the species, begonias reproduce by seed and vegetative methods (leaf, stem, rhizome cuttings or by dividing the bush).

Propagation of domestic begonia by seeds

This method of propagating begonias is considered not labor-intensive and quite simple.

Sowing of seeds is carried out at the end of winter - beginning of spring.
Begonia seeds are very small, so they are sown on the surface of a light soil substrate without being planted deep. The soil mixture, as a rule, consists of peat, sand and leaf soil in a ratio of 1:1:2.
Place the container with the seeds in a warm, bright place, covering it with film or glass. After the first shoots appear, this coating is removed.
Moisten the soil with a spray bottle or by pouring water into a special bottom pan of the container.
In the phase of 3-4 leaves, the seedlings dive. Grown up 1.5-2 month old begonias are transplanted into separate pots.
Begonia from seeds blooms already in the first year of development. To do this, it is important to provide the plant with maximum favorable conditions: watering, loosening, lighting.

Propagation of begonia by tubers at home

The tuberous form of begonia is easily propagated by part of its rhizome - a tuber.

In the fall, when the leaves are cut and the begonia tubers are dug out, the latter are cleared of soil and dried for storage.
In early spring, the tubers are cut into several parts so that each of them has roots and sprouts. You can stimulate the rapid formation of roots by placing the tubers on a constantly moistened cloth.

The cut is sprinkled with charcoal (or sand) and planted in peat (or loose soil substrate), not completely deepened, but so that a small part (1-2 cm) of the tuber still remains on the surface.
It is important to ensure a moderately warm room temperature and constant soil moisture.
In stable warm weather, sprouted tubers can be planted in open ground.
Propagating tuberous begonia at home is not difficult if you follow all the steps correctly. A whole intact begonia tuber can be stored for about 5 years.

Propagation of begonias by cuttings at home

Many gardeners practice breeding begonias using cuttings - shoots with several leaves.

First, cuttings of the required length are prepared, with 3-4 leaves on the shoot.
To prevent the cut areas from rotting, they are treated with charcoal.
The cuttings are planted in a light substrate and the container is placed in a warm, bright place without direct sunlight. Provide moderate watering.
You can root cuttings in water, but with this method there is a higher risk of shoots rotting.
After 3-4 weeks, young roots begin to form on the cuttings.

Propagation of begonia by leaves at home

This method is carried out in the spring and is used only for begonias with large, massive leaves.

For propagation, the whole leaf blade or part thereof is used. The leaf is cut at the very base of the shoot, 5 cm long and above.

Large veins are cut on the underside of the leaf blade and the leaf is placed (cuts down) on wet sand or soil mixture. Lightly press and fix the sheet (for example, with a pin) in one position. For creating greenhouse effect, you can cover the container with film.
Moisten the sand (soil mixture) from below, through the pan. After 1.5-2 months, the first roots appear at the incision sites.
Grown seedlings are separated and planted separately in a soil mixture of peat, sand and soil.

Planting begonias at home

Planting begonias at home does not require special effort or special knowledge. It is enough to choose the right soil for the flower and plant the seedling in a pot or in a flower garden, depending on the type and purpose of the begonia.

Begonias prefer light, fertile soil with good drainage. Soil acidity should be neutral or slightly acidic.
Soil mixture for planting can be purchased at the store (choose a peat-based substrate) or you can make it yourself. To do this, it is enough to mix leaf soil with peat and sand in a ratio of 2:1:1.

The pot for begonia is not very large, only 3-4 cm larger than the root system of the plant. Moreover, rhizomatous species of begonia need more spacious containers for planting than tuberous representatives of the genus.
Drainage (expanded clay, small crushed stone) is poured onto the bottom of the pot, and a small (2-3 cm) layer of charcoal is placed on top. This “technique” will allow you to avoid rot. A seedling with a lump of earth is placed in a pot and covered with prepared soil mixture, slightly compacting the soil to avoid the formation of voids.
A humid microclimate has a beneficial effect on flower development, the growth of green mass and the duration of flowering. The main thing is not to allow moisture to stagnate at the roots to prevent them from rotting.
Tuberous begonia can be planted in open ground or a container. For successful survival, the tubers are germinated in advance on a constantly moist substrate (you can take damp gauze or cloth) and planted with the rounded side down.

Transplanting indoor begonia

Begonia is replanted as needed: if the flower has grown too much and requires a new, more spacious pot; if begonia needs to be propagated; if the begonia loses its decorative effect (for example, the leaves turn yellow).

It is better to replant begonia in early spring, before the active growing season begins.
Carefully remove the plant from the pot and clean the roots from the soil. Then you should inspect all the roots and, if necessary, remove rotten or damaged areas. Treat the cut areas with charcoal powder.
A good way to prevent diseases is to treat the roots in a solution of potassium permanganate. To do this, the entire root system is placed in a container with a solution for 20-30 minutes.
After replanting, the plant needs regular watering and careful care until the begonia is completely established. You should not immediately place the begonia pot in the open sun after transplanting. For the first few days it is better to place the plant in partial shade.
When replanting a plant that is more than 3 years old, it is better to rejuvenate it by dividing it into parts and planting it in separate pots.

Indoor begonia, features of plant care at home

Growing begonia requires knowledge of the peculiarities of its care. If all conditions are met to the maximum, begonia will delight others with lush, healthy foliage and abundant, long-lasting flowering.

Lighting, humidity, temperature of home begonia

Caring for indoor begonia begins with choosing the right place for the flower.

It should be well lit, warm (about 18-20 0 C) with high level humidity, place.
In summer, it is better to avoid direct sunlight to prevent the formation of burns on begonia leaves. The best option– diffused light from the east or west side.
Originally from the tropics, begonia prefers high humidity. But it is not recommended to spray it, as after this brown spots appear on the foliage. It is better to place the pot with the plant on an inverted tray, which, in turn, is placed in another, slightly larger tray. Expanded clay is poured into it, which must always be wet.
Begonia “loves” space, so you can’t place flower pots too close to each other. Regular ventilation (without drafts) in the warm season will only improve the condition of the flower.

Watering home begonias

Caring for begonias at home requires mandatory and regular watering of the plant. The flowering process of begonia directly depends on soil moisture.

Water the begonia abundantly, at the root, as the soil dries 1-2 cm, with settled soft water. Do not allow water to stagnate in the pan.
After flowering, watering is reduced. In winter, even less water will be needed. Tuberous begonia that goes dormant in the fall stops watering altogether, and the tubers are placed in storage.

Feeding indoor begonia

The application of fertilizers ensures the active development of the plant, increasing the flowering phase, the size of flowers and leaves.

Begonia begins to be fed during the flowering period, once every 2 weeks.
Nitrogen fertilizers are applied to stimulate the growth of decorative deciduous begonia species. For flowering varieties, nitrogen is not desirable, as it will inhibit the flowering process.
For decorative flowering species, phosphorus-potassium fertilizers are used, which are applied from the moment the ovary forms and the formation of buds.
Before applying fertilizer, the plant is first watered. Fertilizers are applied in liquid form.
In addition to mineral complexes, it is also practiced to add organic matter to the soil, for example diluted (1:5) manure.

Pest and disease control at home

The appearance of pests or signs of disease is often associated with improper care of begonias.

Excessive watering can cause a fungal disease - powdery mildew - to appear on the plant. To combat the problem ( white coating on the leaves), watering rates are reduced, damaged leaves are removed, and the plant is treated with a fungicide. The same control measures are also used when infected with gray rot, when characteristic light mold appears on the leaves.
When begonia is attacked by aphids, the leaves are wiped with alcohol or a special preparation (for example, “Homa”).
If the humidity is too low, spider mites may appear on begonia bushes. In this case, the leaves are treated with a soap solution or insectoacaricidal preparations, such as Karbofos, Intavir, Decis.

Preparing home begonia for winter

Care measures related to preparation for the winter period are relevant for growing tuberous begonia species at home.

Tuberous begonia experiences a dormant period in winter. Therefore, in the fall, you should trim off any fallen leaves on the plant and put the pot in a cool, dark place.
You need to dig up tubers for storage 1.5-2 weeks after the ground part of the begonia has completely died off.
Store the tubers in a dark, dry and cool place (not lower than 10 0 C). You can use a box of sand for this.

Problems when growing begonias at home

Begonia does not bloom.

The reason may be insufficient lighting, low humidity, draft, unstable temperature regime, excess fertilizer.

The buds are falling.

Perhaps the watering or light regime is disrupted (either a lack or an excess), or there is a shortage of fertilizers.

The leaves are turning yellow.

The reason may be soil depletion, low humidity, or the appearance of pests in the root part of the plant.

The leaves turn black.

The problem arises due to spraying of begonias, water getting on the leaves during watering, and at elevated room temperatures.

The leaves are turning pale.

Insufficient lighting causes the plant to stretch and the foliage to turn pale.

Leaves curl.

Most likely, the room temperature is too high.

Thus, knowing the peculiarities of growing and preferences of begonia, anyone, even a novice gardener, can easily grow this beautiful, spectacular flower at home.

Begonia, photo

Begonia, video: “Basics of successfully growing begonia”

There are more than 900 species of begonia. In addition to them, breeders have created about 2 thousand hybrid varieties of this flower. All of them are divided into two large groups: deciduous and flowering. Deciduous ones are valued for their original color and shape of the leaf blade. They have flowers, but they are small and inconspicuous. The flowers of plants of the second group are more like roses.

Begonia is a flower of the tropics and subtropics. Therefore, they are grown in open ground only in the warm season. But in an apartment they can create comfortable conditions for development.

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Description and types

Begonias belong to the Begoniaceae family. In nature, they grow in the mountains of the tropics and subtropics. Most of them are in South America. About a third of all species grow in Africa. The family unites the most different plants. Their height ranges from a few centimeters to 3 meters.

Begonias can be divided into several groups according to different characteristics. There are decorative leafy and flowering ones. The form of the underground part is tuberous, rhizomatous or superficial. There are evergreens and those that shed leaves during the dormant period. According to life expectancy, they are divided into perennial and one-year living. There are ampelous and with a straight stem.

Tuberous begonias

Tuberous plants reproduce from small root crops. The flowers are large, up to 15 cm in diameter, single-colored, two-colored, with a border. Color red, yellow, white, orange. The flower shape is double or simple.

Kinds:

Everblooming (a bushy group) was named for its ability to bloom year-round. The leaves are small, glossy, red or green. The flowers are small, one or two colors. Used inside the house and in the garden. Varieties: Orania, Carmen.
Royal belongs to the leaf begonias. The leaves are long, multi-colored: green, brown-violet, crimson. They often have colorful spots on them. Varieties: Cartagena, Chocolate Cream, Evening Glow.
Tiger, or Bauer, up to 25 cm high with creeping shoots. The leaves have dark spots and are covered with soft hairs underneath. The flowers are bright pink, inconspicuous. Varieties: Tiger, Cleopatra.
Coral is a subshrub 1 m high. The stems are similar to bamboo, the leaves are ovoid, dark on top, decorated with light spots. Peduncles coral color. Varieties: President Carnot, Lucerne.
Caroline-leaved with a creeping stem and dissected leaves 35 cm long. Varieties: Manson, hogweed, Bovera, imperial.
Elatior is a tuberous hybrid with thin reddish shoots. Grow using support. Elatior blooms in autumn and winter. The color of the petals is varied. The leaves are round. Varieties: Schwabenland, Rose.
The ampelous one is used indoors or outdoors. Varieties Gail, Roxana, Christy.

Everblooming begonia

Ampelous begonia

Planting

Begonia grows well in slightly acidic nutrient soils, close to neutral. Planted in March, when there is more daylight. Peat, leaf soil, and washed river sand are prepared.

Crushed stone is poured into the bottom of the dish with a drainage hole. Add on top river sand, sprinkled with charcoal to prevent rotting of the roots. Cover with sheet soil up to half the height, leaving a depression. Set up a plant with a lump of earth. Sprinkle with a mixture of peat and black soil.

Care

Most begonia varieties do not require special care. They grow well at room temperature. In winter, it is advisable not to allow the temperature to drop below 15 degrees Celsius. Moderate watering is needed. The soil should not be flooded, otherwise the roots of the plant will rot. Do not water with hard and cold water. 15 minutes after watering, it is drained from the pan.

The number of waterings and the dose of water applied depend on the time of year. In summer it is done every other day, in hot weather - every day. From mid-autumn, water when the top layer of soil dries to 3.5 cm. The same regime for non-tuberous begonias is maintained in winter. If the temperature in the apartment is more than 20 degrees, water as in summer. In spring, increase the amount of watering.

Begonia loves Fresh air, but is afraid of drafts. The room needs to be ventilated often, but the flower is placed on a window that does not open.

Tuberous begonias rest in winter. In autumn their leaves disappear. The pot is taken out into the cold. Sometimes tubers are stored in peat. If the leaves do not turn yellow, stop watering and cut off the top part.

The plant makes special demands on indoor humidity. The difficulty of care is that you cannot spray it with a spray bottle. Spots appear on the leaves and the plant becomes sick. Place a tray with gravel near the pot or under it. Pour water and make sure it doesn’t dry out. Evaporating at high temperature, water regulates the humidity of the air around the begonia.

The pot is placed in bright room. But direct rays of the sun are contraindicated for them. Flowering begonias feel better in diffused sunlight; leafy begonias are planted in partial shade. This is how the different colors of the leaves appear. In winter, in December and January, begonia needs to be illuminated with a phytolamp.

The plant is fed once every two weeks in spring and summer with the preparations “Bud” and “Ovary”. Deciduous plants will benefit from the addition of nitrogen.

Transplantation

Non-tuberous indoor begonias are replanted at home a week after purchase, and then once every 2 years. You can find out about the need for replanting by looking at the bottom of the pot. If the roots are peeking out of the drainage hole, you need to look for a pot a few centimeters wider than the root system. Wide dishes lead to waterlogging of the soil. The roots do not have time to absorb all the water. The plant rots or blooms late.

You can check the condition of the flower in another way. Turn it over on its side, holding the soil with one hand. Lightly tapping the pot, remove the flower from it. They look at the condition of the earthen coma. If it is completely entwined with roots, the plant needs to be replanted. The reason may be damage to the pot, souring of the soil, or yellowing of the leaves.

Water the plant a day before replanting so that the roots move away from the walls. Take out the plant, clean the roots from the soil. Disinfect the roots of the plant by treating them with potassium permanganate. Remove damaged parts of roots. Check by looking at the cut. The healthy part has White color, affected, rotten – dark brown. Place in a new pot, fill the voids between the roots with the mixture.

Water generously. This amount of moisture will be enough for 5 days. During this time, the soil will settle, filling the voids. If necessary, add more substrate. It should not reach 1 cm to the edge of the pot. Place the pot in a shaded place for a week. Then they take it out permanently, from where it is better not to remove it without important reasons.

The soil for tuberous begonias is used the same as for bush varieties. To make replanting begonia easier, avoid growing bushes that are too old. A three-year-old bush is cut into several parts and planted separately.

Reproduction

Depending on the type, the plant can be propagated by tubers (tuberous varieties), root division, cuttings, leaves, and seeds.

Propagation by seeds

Reproduction by leaf

Dividing a bush or tuber is carried out in the spring. Dig it up and divide it so that each part has a bud and a root (for a bush). Treat the cut areas with crushed charcoal. When the cut dries, plant it in a new container.

Most often propagated by cuttings and leaves in spring. Cut a cutting 7 cm long and plant it in soil prepared from three parts sand and one part peat. Water periodically. Rooting occurs in a month or two.

For propagation, take a large leaf or part of it. The central lower veins are cut, the leaf is placed in disinfected sand, and fixed. After 2 months, roots sprout and then a stem forms. When the seedlings grow up, they are divided and planted separately.

Seeds are propagated in winter. Shoots will appear in 2 weeks. When the third true leaf is formed, the seedlings are planted separately along with the soil located near the roots. They dive for the second time 2 months after emergence. Plants are illuminated for up to 5 hours a day. If the seeds are sown late, small tubers with a diameter of about 1 cm will form by autumn. Such a plant will bloom the next year.

If the seedling blooms in the summer, by winter the tuberous species will form a root crop. It overwinters at temperatures below 8 degrees.

Starting in February, the tubers are sprouted. Place them in a pot on a layer of soil. Water periodically. Humidity is maintained at 60%, temperature 17 °C. When sprouts appear, add soil and place the plant in a lighted place.

Diseases and pests

If you care for the flower correctly, it will not get sick. Not proper care will cause the begonia to look sick and drop its leaves and flowers.

The main signs and causes of the painful condition:

The tips of the leaves turn brown and the leaves themselves fall off. This indicates insufficient watering and low air humidity.
Pale leaves indicate insufficient light.
Falling buds indicate an insufficient amount of minerals.
Begonia leaves turn yellow when there is insufficient soil moisture and nutrients. Perhaps there are pests in the soil. Replant the plant by treating the roots with a solution of potassium permanganate.
Fungal infection causes high humidity in combination with low temperatures. Diseased leaves are removed, the plant is treated with a fungicide (Foli, Fundazol, Skor, Quadris).
Plants affected by bacterial or viral diseases, are destroyed because they are not treated.

The main pests of begonia are aphids and spider mites. They lay eggs on the inside of the leaf. You can fight aphids with insecticides or a solution of simple soap with tobacco dust. Ticks are destroyed by treating with acaricides. You can prevent their occurrence by maintaining the desired humidity and temperature.

Begonia does not bloom in the following cases:

insufficient lighting;
excess nitrogen in the soil;
hard water;
drafts;
low or high temperature;
the plant is too old;
The tuberous begonias were not allowed to “rest.”

Assess the conditions of detention and change them.

Begonia is grown to decorate a garden, park, square or apartment. Begonia when it blooms it looks very pretty because of its abundant flowering, while being easy to care for. In order for the plant to continue flowering as long as possible, it is important to provide it with proper care. Amateur flower growers should know what begonia looks like, when it blooms, how it reproduces, and what care it needs.

Brief description of the plant

Begonia comes in different varieties, there are varieties herbaceous plant, not exceeding three centimeters, as well as shrubs with rather high branches.

Some begonia species have no stem or only one leaf. The foliage of the plant is green, the reverse side is covered with a single color or with spots and patterns.

It blooms with bright flowers in different warm shades. The flowers resemble rose petals or carnations in appearance. Flowering occurs at the beginning of summer and continues until autumn. Begonia indoor blooms longer than a plant growing outside. The home flowerpot blooms from May to late autumn.

According to decorative properties All types of begonias are divided into deciduous and flowering. Deciduous varieties are valued because they have beautiful colors, interesting shape foliage. They bloom with small flowers, which are most often torn off.

Flowering begonias have petals of different shades, shapes and sizes.

According to the structure of the rhizomes, begonias are:

tuberous, which shed their upper part in the winter and hibernate;
rhizomatous, which form a good powerful root system. The shoots do not die off during the winter, but the plant needs rest;
plants whose root system grows superficially. In ever-flowering flowerpots, rhizomes develop quickly.

At home, flower growers grow royal, ampelous or elatior.

Royal begonias have large, patchy dark green, brown or red leaves. An ornamental deciduous plant can have leaves in the shape of a heart or a snail's spiral.

In ampelous begonia, the shoots hang down and bloom with white, yellow and other shades of flowers. Flowering occurs throughout the entire growth period.

Begonia elatior is grown only at home. It has thin red shoots that must be tied to a support. This variety blooms in autumn and blooms throughout winter period. Blooms in white, yellow, red, orange shades. The plant has glossy rounded leaves, 5 centimeters in diameter.

Features of plant care

In order for begonia to bloom profusely and for a long time, it is important to create the right conditions growing. With timely watering and feeding, a plant at home can delight the eye with flowering almost throughout the year. In addition, it needs protection from pests. If you neglect the rules of caring for a flower, it may suffer from rot or another dangerous disease.

Blooming begonia loves bright light. Therefore, it must be grown on windowsills with good lighting. In summer, it is recommended to shade the plant from direct sunlight. Since the sun can burn the beautiful leaves and flowers of the flowerpot.

Read also: Soft hawthorn - secrets of care

Decorative deciduous begonia varieties grow and bloom best in diffused light. Therefore, they are grown on windowsills on the east or west side.

Temperature and humidity

The flower loves high humidity, but it cannot be sprayed with a spray bottle. If water gets on the foliage, it can cause brown spots to appear on them.

To prevent the begonia from being damaged by too dry air, it can be placed on a tray lowered into a bowl of expanded clay. It is the expanded clay that should be moistened so that when water evaporates from it, it provides the required percentage of humidity in the room for good growth and flower blossoming.

In extreme summer heat, the plant needs abundant watering. But it is important to ensure that water does not accumulate in the pan, as it can cause rotting of the roots. Water the flower with settled water. Watering is carried out when the soil has dried out.

In winter, watering is reduced. Tuberous varieties of begonias go dormant in winter, so they stop watering them altogether. Instead of watering, they are placed in a pot with peat.

As soon as the plant begins to bloom, you can start feeding it. Fertilize the flower once every two weeks. Nitrogen fertilizers can only be used for deciduous varieties, as they improve growth but reduce flowering.

Features of plant transplantation

Soil for planting begonias can be purchased at a special store. But if you wish, you can do it yourself:

It is recommended to cover the bottom of the pot with a layer of sand, which will serve as drainage.
Fill the pot halfway with leaf soil.
Mix peat with black soil in equal proportions.
Add the resulting mixture to the leaf soil.

With the right soil for the plant, it will grow actively and bloom profusely.

Begonia is replanted as needed, in early spring. If the entire pot is completely filled with the roots of the bush, they begin to poke out. In this case, it is already necessary to carry out a transplant.

Begonia transplant procedure:

Buy a slightly larger pot than the old container.
Carefully remove the plant from the old pot.
Clean the roots well from peat.
Place the begonia in water mixed with potassium permanganate for a couple of hours.
After a while, cut off the rotten parts of the roots.
When the roots are completely dry after drying, place the plant in a pot and cover with prepared soil.

After the transplant procedure, water the pot well and place it on a windowsill that does not receive much sun. Once the plant has acclimated to the new pot, it can be placed on permanent place growing. It will take one month for the begonia to fully take root in the new container.

Protection from diseases and pests

If the soil of a flower is too wet, it may suffer from powdery mildew or other fungal disease. In order to detect the disease in time and save the plant, you should carefully examine it from time to time, especially in the area of the core of the bush and lower leaves. It is in these places that rot most often accumulates and powdery mildew starts. If rot is detected, reduce watering and remove the affected parts of the flower. This way, prevent the fungus from spreading throughout the plant.

Read also: Venus hair: care, reproduction, possible problems

Begonia is propagated using leaf cuttings, stems, and dividing bushes. But in order for the plant to take root and bloom successfully in the allotted time, it is important to take into account its type and variety. Since some flowers are propagated only by dividing the bush, and some only by cuttings from leaves. To propagate a tuberous begonia variety, you need to purchase seeds or have tubers.

Propagation by cuttings

In spring or summer, begonia can be propagated using the cutting procedure:

From healthy plant cut a cutting 7 centimeters long.
Plant the cut stem in sand mixed with peat in a 3:1 ratio.
Place the container with the planting in a dark place.
After a couple of months, the plant will take root and begin to grow successfully.

To propagate begonia from leaf cuttings, choose a healthy, strong plant. Dig the cutting into the soil so that the leaf does not touch the top layer of soil. Until the leaf takes root, it is recommended to keep the container with it in a dark room.

Propagation by seeds

Begonia propagates by seeds from December to early March. The seeds are sown in an even layer in leaf soil mixed with peat and sand. When sowing, each seed should be lightly pressed into the soil. In two weeks the first shoots will begin to appear.

It is important to distribute the seedlings into different containers. After some time, young, strong plants are transplanted into separate pots with properly selected soil. If begonias are healthy and growing successfully, you can see them blooming already in mid-summer. Before winter, the plant tuber will be fully formed. In autumn, the tubers are buried in sand or peat for winter storage. Store at a temperature no higher than 10 degrees Celsius. In spring, the tubers are replanted in pots with updated soil.

The procedure for propagating begonias by tubers:

In the fall, carefully remove the tubers from the soil.
Trim the foliage.
Clean the roots well from the soil.
Carefully separate the tuber into pieces.
Place the finished tuber particles in peat so that they do not dry out.
After some time, transplant the tubers into pots with sandy soil and water them moderately.

It will take a long time for a tuberous begonia to germinate. The beginning of the germination process will be indicated by the emerging shoots and roots.

Problems during cultivation

It often happens that begonia does not want to bloom. This problem occurs when:

insufficient lighting;
improperly selected soil;
improper transplantation;
not timely fertilization;
absence of a rest period;
too dry air;
pest damage;
severe drying of the soil or watering with hard water.

In order for begonia to start blooming again, it is necessary to change the growing conditions.

Sometimes a begonia cannot bloom due to age or an incorrectly planted plant. If the shrub does not bloom, it may be a variety with decorative leaves. Decorative deciduous begonias have beautiful leaves of large or small sizes, with an exquisite shape and pattern. Often the stems of such plants are creeping, and the foliage rises high on elongated cuttings. Decorative deciduous begonias do not bloom, but there are varieties of this species that bloom very few small flowers.

Read also: Exotic Bauhinia - cultivation, reproduction, problems

Some begonia varieties bloom only if 6 rings have formed on the main stem. Early flowering can only be achieved through the use of stimulants.

If you decide to grow begonia in a flowerbed, be sure to keep in mind that it does not tolerate frost. Therefore, it is recommended to plant in open ground or take pots out into the fresh air in April or May. It is recommended to grow the flower in a flower bed well lit by the sun. But you should protect it from drought. If the plant is planted in shade or partial shade, it will develop slowly and not bloom very profusely.

Begonia grown in open ground blooms from June to September. If you have time to transplant the plant into a pot before the onset of frost and bring it into a warm room, it will continue to bloom for another two to three months. You need to water the outdoor flower when the top layer of soil becomes dry.

To decorate flower beds and borders, flower growers plant Illumination, Nonstop, Chanson. The Illumination variety is planted in balcony boxes and flowerpots, as it has weeping stems. The Nonstop variety has erect stems reaching a height of 20 centimeters. Blooms large flowers yellow tint. U hanging variety Chanson beautiful flowing double flowers in diameter reaching 6 centimeters.