Every apartment must have such a multifunctional piece of furniture as a wardrobe. It will save space in your home and organize space. Not everyone can afford to purchase it due to various circumstances. This is not a reason to refuse such a thing. For a jack of all trades, it won’t be too difficult to make and assemble it yourself.
Of course, some knowledge will be required. There is nothing complicated here as it seems at first glance. In addition, what joy and pride you will experience from the work done. After all, furniture assemblers charge quite a high fee, but you can handle it on your own.
After the decision to buy a wardrobe has been made, the need arises to assemble it correctly.
To assemble purchased furniture, you must follow the cabinet assembly instructions provided by the manufacturer. There are certain rules. By following them, you will assemble any item with high quality and in a short time.
- You shouldn’t take everything out of the packages at once, much less mix parts from different packs. Maintain the order.
- Read the instructions carefully so that later there are no overlaps and you don’t have to redo it again.
- Make sure that the fittings and component on the spot. Otherwise, you will not be able to completely assemble the furniture. The handles must match the color scheme. It is necessary that the guides for drawers had a soft ride.
- Assemble one section at a time in order. You need to start from the bottom, gradually moving to the sides.
- Open the package, lay out the parts, prepare the tools.
- Mirrors and glass are installed at the final stage. This way you will avoid damage.
For assembly you need a screwdriver, a screwdriver, a hex key, and a tape measure.
If you do the manufacturing yourself, it will be much easier to assemble.
It is very important to follow the assembly sequence, otherwise you will be forced to disassemble and reassemble the cabinet in the correct sequence.
How to work with laminated chipboard - a popular material for cabinet furniture
Currently, laminated chipboard is mainly used in the production of furniture. This is the first principle. Represents wood shavings large dispersion. Using the hot pressing method, it is given the shape of a sheet. In the manufacture of slabs, formaldehyde resins are used; they are an additional component. Difference from simple chipboard consists of covering with a film made of paper and melamine resin. In terms of environmental indicators, it is better to use materials of class E1. Laminated chipboard boards have good compaction, due to which furniture made from them is strong and has a long service life.
Fastening the rails to the cabinet door
If you think that this material has the same composition, then you are mistaken. Based on their coating, they are divided into veneered, rough and laminated. Based on their quality composition, they can be divided into three grades: first, they use first-class sawdust (usually wood of the same species). The surface is flawless, not a single chip. The plate is decorated, laminated with film or veneer. Second grade – you can already see small defects. There may or may not be cladding. Third, there are already noticeable defects here. Such slabs are not covered with anything.
Until the cabinet is fully assembled, make sure that the attached parts do not tilt, as the fasteners may break off.
In addition, laminated chipboards are moisture-resistant and fire-resistant (withstand high temperatures). They are mainly used to make furniture frames, but are also used in the production of partitions or used as interior decoration. It is worth mentioning that laminated chipboard, due to its composition, perfectly holds nails and screws.
In order to give rigidity to the wardrobe, it is necessary to secure the back wall.
The main “steps” for assembling sliding wardrobes with your own hands are indicated in the instructions.
Furniture made from these boards has many advantages compared to other materials.
- Acceptable price indicators.
- No difficulties in manufacturing.
- Good quality.
- Significant period of use.
- Diversity color range and decoration. This will help you choose the perfect furniture for your living room, kitchen or children's room.
- Blends perfectly with other materials.
Such furniture looks great in any interior.
Another important feature of laminated chipboard is that these boards have heat and sound insulation. Therefore, they can sheathe the walls of the room.
Make sure that the holes for the shelves and hanger rod mounts match the holes on the opposite rack.
Also, if you have started remodeling an apartment/house, knowing how to assemble a wardrobe yourself will help you easily and quickly resolve the issue of moving this furniture.
What tools are needed
Significant expenses in purchasing the tool will not be required. To collect kitchen set, wardrobe or hallway, you need to have the usual set of tools: a screwdriver, a hex wrench for confirmation, a screwdriver, various drills, a bit for confirmation, an awl, a pencil, a tape measure, a square, a fine-grained sandpaper, electric drill, stationery knife, iron, blunt knife, rubber mallet, clamp for parts.
The distance between opposite corners should be the same.
Assembling a wardrobe with your own hands is quite easy and anyone can do it simply by following the instructions.
It is unrealistic to guess what tools will be needed to assemble furniture. It depends on what kind of project it is - difficult or not.
Now you need to install the wardrobe doors.
To open a closet, you don't need to remove chairs or move other furniture.
Preparation before assembly
First you need to prepare the room. The final outcome of the case depends on this, how much time you spend on work. Important point- so that nothing interferes. Make sure all materials and necessary tools are at hand.
As a depth limiter, you can use a 6 or 8 plastic dowel mounted on a drill.
With the help of a wardrobe you will visually divide different zones in a room, for example, a working room from a recreation area.
Assembling furniture at first glance seems simple matter. Many people make mistakes, resulting in defects: the doors and sashes do not fit together well, the doors can creak when opening, misalignment of the holes causes misalignment of parts, furniture does not stand securely on the floor. To avoid this, you must adhere to certain rules and instructions.
Built-in wardrobes are very popular in interior design. various models made from natural and artificial materials.
Some models of wardrobes can be transformed to suit the features of the room: the presence of a corridor, recesses in the wall where the wardrobe can be placed.
Main assembly steps
The wardrobe is assembled strictly according to the diagram, vertically or horizontally. The second option is better, this way you can prevent skewing of the parts being connected. If the ceiling height does not allow you to raise ready-made wardrobe, then it is better to carry out work in a vertical position.
You can easily assemble a sliding wardrobe with your own hands if you follow the step-by-step instructions.
In such a closet you will place twice as much clothes without the expense of the enormity of the furniture itself.
The first step is to attach the base to the bottom and adjustable legs. They are necessary if the floor is uneven. Next, we begin assembling the body. We connect the sides to the base. To make the structure durable, we attach an intermediate rack and a shelf. This is necessary so that the sidewalls do not tilt. Then we screw the remaining parts and attach the lid. It is advisable not to nail the back wall, but to screw it with self-tapping screws. At this stage we put the cabinet in its place. We install guides for drawers, holders for shelves, and a bar for hangers. Check that the drawers should slide out smoothly.
You need to familiarize yourself with all the details of the product (so as not to confuse anything during the assembly process and not have to start all over again), prepare the tools and the place where the assembly and installation will take place.
This work will take a lot of your time.
Next up is door installation. First we attach the guides, then we fix the rail with screws. We insert the doors, check that they open and close smoothly. Adjust them if necessary. IN last resort glue the sealing brushes. We attach plugs to the confirmation holes.
As a rule, sliding wardrobes, like all furniture, are assembled in the lying position of the cabinet.
Do not warp the cabinet parts, keep the corners straight.
To summarize, we can say that assembling a wardrobe is not like that. hard work. Your desire, skill and ability will allow you to do this without difficulty.
After you do everything, be sure to check how the doors work (do they creak, move freely, etc.), how securely the shelves and other parts are fastened.
Be careful that until the cabinet body is assembled and the back wall is installed, all fasteners can be easily broken.
VIDEO: DIY wardrobe. How to assemble a wardrobe?
The wardrobe is the most functional element of furniture. It can be easily placed even in a small area. Such a design today is quite expensive, so it makes sense to assemble it yourself.
Cabinet project
The first thing you need to do is decide on the location of its installation. IN in this case Everything is individual, there is no specific advice. You can install the cabinet in a closet, a niche in the wall or a corner of the room.
If there is enough free space, then the size of the structure should be chosen based on the golden ratio rule, that is, the ratio of height and length should be 1.62.
Figure 1. Option drawing of a sliding wardrobe.
If the room has ceilings 2.5 m high, then it is best to choose a cabinet length of 1.54 m (250 / 1.62 = 1.543). In most cases, the standard depth of furniture parts is 60 cm. It is not recommended to go beyond this depth, because it may be inconvenient to remove clothes from the upper shelves. It should also be taken into account that all parts that are located inside the structure must be 10 cm narrower.
When appropriate place for installation will be selected, you will need to draw up a drawing. It is advisable to make a detailed diagram of the cabinet and all shelves indicating the dimensions. This can be done on a computer or on paper. Special software allows you to quickly calculate the number and dimensions of all boards for cutting.
The process of designing a cabinet using a special software consists of the following steps:
- Determining the dimensions of the cabinet to be manufactured.
- Choice suitable material for the manufacture of.
- Dividing the space inside into separate sections.
- Filling this space with drawers (if necessary).
- Determination of door sizes and materials.
- Adding additional side elements (if necessary).
- Determining the ends that will need to be edged.
- Selection of suitable fittings and its arrangement.
If you wish, you can print a 3D image of the cabinet to make assembly easier.
A drawing of the cabinet that will be assembled is presented in Figure 1. The length of the cabinet is 1.5 m, depth is 60 cm, and height is 2.4 m.
This cabinet can be placed in a pantry if there is a beam on top. The doors will not go all the way to the ceiling.
The shelves are made from ordinary laminated chipboard the color you like. To secure them, you need to use screws and metal corners.
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Items to work with
Figure 2. Diagram of a more advanced wardrobe.
After all the calculations have been made, you will need to purchase all the necessary parts. Cutting and edge processing can be done independently or ordered from the manufacturer. However, you should understand that it will not be possible to make a quality cut at home. This is due to the fact that for cutting you will need special tools. In special workshops it is possible to make cuts complex shapes, shelves with round corners, cut out patterns and so on.
The cost of cutting all the elements and processing them is a small part of the cost of the cabinet.
To order cutting parts from the manufacturer you will need to have finished drawing with the designation of all sizes of elements.
You will need the following items:
- 3 boards 60x150 cm (will be placed horizontally);
- 2 boards 60x200 cm (placed vertically);
- 1 piece 60x135 cm;
- 3 parts for shelves 60x32.5 cm;
- 1 sheet 30x150 cm for the shelf, which is placed behind the beam;
- 3 boards 40x30 cm for a shelf that is placed behind the beam.
At this stage, it is important to avoid errors in calculations, so before purchasing parts you need to study the drawing and calculate the existing gaps.
The costs of producing all elements in a special workshop will consist of:
- drawing up a cutting map (it is recommended to entrust cutting to a master);
- cutting laminated chipboard;
- production of plinths;
- production of round parts.
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Cabinet assembly
You can assemble the cabinet with your own hands as follows:
Figure 3. Calculation of wardrobe doors.
- First of all, you need to install a piece of 60x150 cm on the floor, and then attach 2 side boards to it. If there is a baseboard in the room, it is recommended to remove it so that you do not have to cut the walls at an angle. All elements can be secured to dowels to the wall or to metal corners to the bottom board using self-tapping screws. In some cases, furniture corners made of plastic are used for shelves, but you should understand that they are unreliable.
- Next, the shelves that will be located inside are assembled. To do this, you need to connect 2 horizontal parts 60x150 cm (which are located above the bar) with a board 60x135 cm and 3 small transverse compartments.
- The finished compartments are secured to the corners of the cabinet using self-tapping screws. If you can get to the side walls, then you can use Euroscrews for fastening. This element is often used to assemble cabinets.
- Next, the upper shelves are installed, which are made separately from the outside. To do this, you need to attach 3 partitions 40x30 cm to the 30x150 cm part.
If you are making a cabinet with a top cover that is equal to the length of the cabinet, then you should know that securing it is quite problematic. In this case, you will need to leave the required height so that you can pry the upper part with a hexagon. The lid can also be attached to metal corners.
The result will be 2 large compartments for hangers, in which you can place outerwear, dresses, suits, and so on. There will be 1 large shelf on one side, and the other side will be divided into 3 small compartments. On top there will be one shelf of large width, which is divided into 3 small compartments at the wall. At the very top there is a shelf for small clothes.
The location of the shelves can be seen in Fig. 2.
Many people are familiar with the eternal problem of lack of space: everything is always out of place, the purchased cabinets are insufficient or do not fit. If you are facing these difficulties, it is time to customize the furniture for your room so that it perfectly suits your personal needs and requirements. Making furniture to order is too expensive, but you can assemble a built-in wardrobe with your own hands, saving a lot of money. In this article we will give you detailed instructions with drawings and assembly diagrams.
The main housing in Russia is small Khrushchev-type apartments, in which everyone square meter on account. Old Soviet wardrobes are very bulky and roomy - there are useless legs on the bottom, a dust collector on top and empty space, which is usually filled with a mezzanine. Our homemade wardrobe is free of these disadvantages, because it is located either in a niche or the entire height of the room, thus using every centimeter of space.
- The main advantage is spaciousness and compactness. The useful volume of space is 2.5 times greater than that of conventional furniture.
- Sliding doors are why we love sliding wardrobes. They are very practical and do not take up much space.
- Beautiful design - the ability to make doors from a mirror, frosted glass, apply sandblasting patterns, stickers and use any other material to decorate sliding doors.
- Possibility to zone a room using a partition from a closet. We also note that the use of full-length mirrors will have a good effect on the space of the room, making it larger and brighter.
The main disadvantage is the price: if you buy a wardrobe to order or in a store, it will not cost you at all. However, it is quite possible to make a wardrobe with your own hands, the main thing is not to panic and follow the planned work plan.
Cabinet design
Before assembling the wardrobe, you need to finally decide on its drawing and location. Everything is individual here, and there can be no specific advice, just find a good place for the closet. This could be a closet, a niche in the wall, or just a corner in the room.
If free place is not limited, then choose the size of the cabinet according to the golden ratio rule, according to which the ratio of height and length should be 1.62.
Thus, if your ceiling is 2.5 m high, then it would be optimal to choose a cabinet length of 154 cm (250/1.62=154.3). Standard depth furniture parts Usually it is 60 cm, you don’t need to do more, otherwise it will be inconvenient to get distant things from the upper shelves. Also note that all internal parts must be at least 10 cm narrower due to the width of the doors.
When you decide on the installation location, you need to draw up drawings. Do detailed diagram cabinet and all shelves with dimensions on paper or on a computer (choose the Basis Cabinet or Excel program). Specialized programs With one button they will be able to give you the quantity and dimensions of the required parts for cutting, which is very convenient.
When modeling interior shelves, you can’t do without your significant other, otherwise you’ll have to redo everything later. Modeling is one of the most important stages, which should be devoted to a separate topic, so now we will only briefly present our wardrobe project with dimensions.
Drawing of a built-in wardrobe in a niche This scheme The wardrobe is designed to be created in a closet with a beam at the top. Therefore, mirrored doors will not go all the way to the ceiling.
Filling
When creating shelves, we will use regular boards laminated chipboard light color. To fasten them we will use metal corners and self-tapping screws.
After calculating the materials for the cabinet, we bought the necessary parts and ordered cutting and edge processing on site:
- 3 parts 150x60 cm (horizontal);
- 2 parts 200x60 cm (vertical for walls);
- 1 vertical partition 135x60 cm;
- 3 vertical partitions for shelf compartments 32.5x60 cm;
- 1 horizontal sheet 150x30 cm for the shelf behind the beam;
- 3 partitions for a shelf behind a beam 30x40 cm.
The main thing here is not to make mistakes in the calculations, so before ordering parts, carefully study the drawing and calculate all the gaps.
Build process
Now about how to assemble a wardrobe with your own hands.
- First, we laid the 150x60 piece on the floor and attached two side boards to it. By the way, if you have a plinth, it is better to remove it, otherwise you will have to cut the walls at an angle. Fastening took place using dowels to the wall and metal corners to the bottom board with self-tapping screws. Some people use plastic furniture corners for shelves, but they are not so reliable: a child will stand on the shelf and it will collapse.
- Then we assembled the internal shelves separately: we connected 2 horizontal boards 150x60 (which will be above the bar) with a vertical piece 135x60 and three small transverse compartments 32.5x60.
- The finished compartments were secured to the cabinet in the same way, using corners and screws. If you have access to the side walls, then you can use a Euroscrew for fastening - a popular furniture fastener that is used for tables and shelves.
- Now all that remains is to make the upper shelves; we also prepared them separately from the outside. We attached three vertical partitions 30x40 every 50 centimeters to a horizontal board 150x30.
Note! If you are making a cabinet with a full-length top lid, you may have problems with its fastening. In this case, leave required height, so that you can crawl with a hexagon from above or attach the cover to the corners from the inside.
As a result, we got 2 large compartments for hangers, where all outerwear, shirts, dresses, etc. will fit. Then there is 1 large shelf on one side, and the other side is divided into 3 small compartments. Above there is one wide shelf, which is divided into 3 narrow compartments against the wall. And at the very top there is a shelf for unnecessary things. Everything is shown in the photo below.
Door installation
Now about the most difficult part - the wardrobe. In order not to make a mistake with the size, it is better to buy them after assembling the frame. You can watch the assembly video mirror door from profiles:
It is not recommended to make the width of sliding doors more than 1 meter, so if the length of the cabinet is 154 cm, divide it in half: each door, roughly speaking, is 77 cm + an overlap of 2-4 cm so that there is no gap.
Calculation of wardrobe doors Regarding the height of the doors, it is important to consider the height of the lining and wheels.
For example:
- 250 centimeters - ceiling height (or opening);
- 1.6 cm - thickness of laminated chipboard linings on top and bottom;
- The gap at the top and bottom is 1.5 cm for the wheels;
Total: 250-1.6-1.6-1.5-1.5 = 243.8 cm - the height of our doors. You should have side handle profiles of this height. The clearance figures may vary, it all depends on the profiles used, so read the instructions from their manufacturer.
Sliding door design - Since we are attaching the doors to the widened doorway of the pantry, we need to make a laminated chipboard gasket around the perimeter.
- Now let's cut the required length of the door guides. They should be equal to the width of the cabinet inside and fit freely between the walls. They must be secured strictly level and parallel to each other. First, we attach the upper rail to self-tapping screws with a press washer, then the lower one. Be sure to insert the stoppers into the bottom guide in closed position doors.
- When the guides are level, you can insert the door. The far door is first inserted into the top track and then lifted to fit into the bottom. The front door is inserted in the same way - first insert the top, then the bottom.
- To adjust the doors, tighten the special bolt at the bottom with a hex key. If you tighten the bolt, the door will rise, if you unscrew it, it will lower. If the doors are parallel and adjusted, then everything will run like clockwork, but if they are installed incorrectly, then sometimes the upper rollers can pop out.
- At this point, the installation of the wardrobe is completed; now you can hang hooks, secure the hanging rod and, if necessary, add drawers.
To finally figure out how to assemble a wardrobe with your own hands, the video lesson will tell you all the details during installation:
Conclusion
By doing all the work yourself, you will save 2-3 times more money than ordering a similar cabinet in a store, and you can also make it several times faster if desired. The main thing is to be careful and calculate every action before starting work. As they say, measure twice, cut once.
Video version of the article
Where to start assembling a wardrobe
First you need to check whether all the spare parts were delivered to you. There should be several boxes with chipboard (at least two), doors and packaging with hardware. The manufacturer can pack hardware and additional elements in a box with chipboard. Be careful when receiving the cabinet, as delivery workers may sometimes forget some elements or may damage some of its parts, be sure to check this.
What tools will you need to assemble the cabinet:
- Phillips screwdriver PH2;
- hex key, edge width 5 mm (L-shaped);
- roulette (ruler);
- level (optional);
The assembly process will speed up significantly if you have a screwdriver with bits (hex and Phillips), but you can do without it.
Preparing to assemble the wardrobe
Assembling a wardrobe with your own hands is labor-intensive process, so immediately find yourself an assistant who will help you hold or serve the spare part. Before you start assembling, you need to open all the packages and sort the boards by size. After this, it will be easier to determine which elements are where.
Each panel has characteristic connection holes, which make it easy to determine its purpose.
There are 3 circuit diagrams chipboard connections:
- using confirmed screws;
- eccentric couplers (minifixes);
- one of the above methods, but with the addition of wooden dowels (chops).
Each connection has its own characteristic holes on the plane and at the ends of the boards. There are two types of holes for confirmations:
- in one part through in a plane with a diameter of 7 mm;
- in the second part there is a blank with a diameter of 4.5 or 5 mm.
There are also 2 pairs of holes made for eccentric couplers:
- in one part there is a blind part in a plane with a diameter of 5 mm into which the minifix rod is screwed;
- in the second part there is a hole at the end of 8 mm connected to a recess in the plane with a diameter of 15 mm for the clamping cylinder.
Holes for dowels are made blind at the end and in the plane with the same diameter from 8 to 10 mm.
Before assembling the wardrobe, look at the set of hardware; their presence will make it clear what type of connections you have and in what order to assemble the elements.
Before deciding on the details, it’s worth remembering that all boards front side(the end) is glued with an edge, and the back (where the fiberboard is nailed) remains bare. This way you can position the shelves, lintels and sides correctly.
Sliding wardrobes, which not so long ago were considered completely exotic interior items that could only be seen in glossy catalogs or in very “rich” apartments, have gradually entered the everyday life of the average family. Such furniture designs combine practicality, spaciousness, and economy. usable area, and on top of all this, they fit very well into the interior of the room, often becoming its central design element.
And yet, if you look at the price lists of companies engaged in the manufacture and installation of sliding wardrobes, sometimes the prospect of such an acquisition looks somewhat frightening. Therefore, many owners who know how to hold carpentry and locksmith tool, questions arise - is it possible to make such an interior item yourself? It turns out that this is quite possible. The biggest difficulty is the door sliding design. However, this should not be scary - in specialized stores you can purchase special kit systems that will help you assemble beautiful and functional doors for a sliding wardrobe with your own hands, of course, if diligence, accuracy, and a clear sequence of all technological operations are applied.
What is included in the kit for wardrobe doors
This article will not discuss the process of installing the cabinet itself with shelves, side walls, drawers, etc. The point is completely different - the defining element of such a piece of furniture is precisely. By and large, no matter how paradoxical it may sound, a wardrobe may simply not even be a “wardrobe” in the literal sense of the word.
Various options sliding wardrobes, which sometimes are not even “closets” Thus, with a movable door structure you can fence off a long niche in the wall, placing in the resulting space both ordinary shelves and racks, bedside tables, etc. Often, such a partition separates the end part of the room, along its entire width, from wall to wall, and in height - from floor to ceiling. And the resulting mini-room can serve as spacious wardrobe, and a storage room, and sometimes even a small office. Apply similar design and for installation in the corner of a room or hallway - as a result, the owners have a triangular “closet” at their disposal, which can be used both as a closet and for other needs, for example, even for “home parking” of a bicycle.
In a word, there can be an innumerable number of options. But they all have one thing in common - . Correctly mounted sashes move effortlessly along their guides, alternately allowing one or another section of the “cabinet” to be opened, and in the closed position they fit tightly, without gaps, to the vertical planes framing the structure.
Doors for wardrobes
You should not assume that the numerous local companies involved in the manufacture and installation of sliding wardrobes use some of their own designs or mechanisms. In the vast majority of cases, ready-made systems are used for this, which can be purchased in stores furniture fittings. Usually they represent a certain set of metal (usually aluminum) profiles and the necessary components: roller mechanisms, plugs, gaskets, jumpers, fasteners, etc. These systems help to collect frame structure doors and the mechanism for their movement, but each master is free to choose his own internal filling - mirrors, transparent or tinted glass, plastic, laminated fiberboard or MDF and other materials.
There are many such systems for sliding wardrobe doors. They may differ in the configuration and material of the profiles, the principle of installation of parts, the level of complexity of the roller mechanism, the adjustment system, etc. Our publication will discuss the Aristo system, as one of the most popular, proven to be reliable, and quite simple to use. self-installation. In addition, it is nice to know that these are products of our domestic manufacturer, which has won recognition abroad.
Aristo profiles are made of primary aluminum and have a clearly defined geometry, which allows you to assemble door structures with high precision. The system involves sliding doors, the load from which falls on the lower roller. It is equipped with a metal rolling bearing that does not require lubrication throughout its entire service life, and ensures smooth and silent movement of the sash along the guide without applying much effort. The upper rollers play a stabilizing role, hold the canvas in a vertical position and ensure its smooth movement relative to the upper guide.
The manufacturer of the kits claims that the resource built into the mechanism, if assembled correctly, will be enough for one hundred thousand (!) closing and opening cycles - a more than impressive figure.
The manufacturer offers wide choose color design aluminum profiles- it is possible to mount a structure that will fit perfectly into the interior without standing out, or, conversely, sharply contrasting against the general background.
Wood-look profiles are covered with a high-strength two-layer laminating film, and monochrome parts receive their shade using anodizing technology.
Aristo profiles allow you to produce sliding doors filled with glass (4 mm thick), a composition of glass with plywood or fiberboard (6 or 8 mm thick) or chipboard, MDF panels (10 mm thick). Maximum dimensions doors can be: up to 1500 mm wide, up to 3300 mm high, permissible weight of one leaf is up to 160 kg.
What are the main components included in the Aristo system (an option with guides for two or more sashes is being considered):
| №№ | Illustration | Dimensions | Short description |
|---|---|---|---|
| 1. | Side stand-handle open type, asymmetrical, profile C. | ||
| 2. | Side stand-handle closed type, symmetrical, profile N. | ||
| 3. | The upper guide profile (track) is double-slide. | ||
| 4. | The lower guide profile (track) is double-slide. | ||
| 5. | Upper door frame. The channel for screwing in the assembly self-tapping screw is clearly visible. |
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| 6. | Lower door frame. The same mounting channel for the screw, and the high profile shelves create a niche for placing support rollers. |
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| 7. | The door frame is medium without additional fixation with a self-tapping screw. It is used when using several fragments of filling in the case when reinforced fixation of the jumper is not required - it will be held by the filling panels (for example, if rigid chipboards or MDF 10 mm). |
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| 8. | Middle door frame with screw fixation. Able to add additional rigidity to the door frame. It is advisable to use when used as fragments of filling glass or mirrors, or when the entire door leaf structure has significant dimensions. |
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| 9. |  | Straight stop. Optional element. It is used to frame the vertical sides of the opening at the point where they adjoin the walls. |
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| 10. | Shaped stop. Optional element. It is used to frame the vertical sides of the opening if they are walls made of chipboard panels. |
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| 11. | P-profile. Optional element. Can be used to frame the ends of chipboard panels used in the installation of the cabinet structure, in places where they are adjacent to the floor, ceiling, and walls. |
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| 12. | - | The upper roller is symmetrical. Used when using closed vertical profiles N. |
|
| 13. | - | The upper roller is asymmetrical. Used when using open vertical profiles C. Each sash requires a set of two rollers. |
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| 14. | - | Lower support roller with adjusting screw. Each sash requires a set of two rollers. The AB74 adjusting screw has a 6 mm hex head. |
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| 15. | - | Assembly screw AB75, with self-tapping working part. The head is for a 6 mm internal hexagon. One screw for each connecting node. |
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| 16. | - | Spring stopper. Optional element. Provides fixation of the door in the closed position. |
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| 17. | - | Silicone rubber seal. It is laid along the perimeter of the door filling inserts. They vary in size - a seal is available for inserts of 4, 6 and 8 mm thickness. When using 10 mm thick filling, no seal is used. |
|
| 18. | - | Schlegel is a self-adhesive strip of plastic and lint. It is glued along the entire height of the door leaf from the end part - for this purpose a special groove is provided on profiles C and H. Schlegel softens the impact of the door on the cabinet walls, and when the door is closed, it prevents the penetration of dust. |
There are several more items that can be purchased upon request - closers, magnetic stoppers, locks, caps for the ends of profiles, etc. But they no longer directly affect the process of assembling and installing wardrobe doors under consideration.
The principle of assembling doors for a sliding wardrobe with the “Aristo” system
In the configuration of profiles and fittings of the Aristo system, everything is thought out, so installation door design shouldn't cause much difficulty.
A schematic diagram of the assembly of one door leaf with vertical profiles of type C is shown in the drawing. Here and below, the numbering of profile and fitting elements is observed in full accordance with the detailing table located above.
Profiles 3 and 4 are fixed respectively to the ceiling (cabinet lid) and floor (cabinet base), and are fixed parts of the system.
Installation of the structure door leaf carried out using assembly screws (pos. 15). No. 14a shows the adjusting screw for the lower support roller.
The drawing does not show the option of central horizontal jumpers, if they are necessary. But their installation is fundamentally no different. They are either simply inserted without additional fixation (on vertical racks there are special sides on the inside for precise centering), or they are fixed with an assembly screw according to the same principle as the top crossbar of the door.
Below is Assembly drawing for the option using vertical profile type N.
There is no fundamental difference - just a different, symmetrical type of upper rollers is used for these profiles. True, there will still be differences in the calculation of dimensions and in the installation of the upper and lower guide profiles (runners).
Calculations of door sizes for sliding wardrobes of the Aristo system
The assembly of the door will only be of high quality if careful, down to the millimeter, calculations are carried out, and the parts are prepared very carefully according to the obtained dimensions. No negligence or calculations “by eye” are allowed - this will certainly lead not only to a sloppy appearance, but also to distortions and even jamming of the door structure.
Calculations are carried out in the following sequence:
- Determined exact dimensions opening into which the door structure will be installed.
The diagram shows wall structures, floor and ceiling, but these can also be the walls of a mounted cabinet - the principle does not change.
Initial dimensions - the length and height of the opening in which the movable door structure will be installed At the output we have two values: opening length – Lп and its height is Np, from which the further countdown will begin.
It is extremely important to pay attention to the fact that the upper and lower boundaries of the opening must be strictly horizontal along their entire length. If the deviation from the side walls from the vertical, although extremely undesirable, can still be compensated in some way decorative finishing, then even small deviations from the horizontal will lead to looseness or jamming of the movable sashes.
Often, in order to compensate for slight unevenness in the floor and ceiling, and to facilitate further fastening of the guide profiles, smooth panels (strips), for example, made of chipboard, are mounted above and below along the entire length of the opening. In this case, the height of the opening is measured after installing such pads, or their thickness must be taken into account - subtracted from the total height of the opening.
- After measuring the opening, you can immediately obtain the height of the door structure, that is, the length of the required vertical handle profiles (1 or 2).
Regardless of the profile type, it is always equal
Нд = Нп – 40 mm
- Opening length Lп immediately gives the length of the lower and upper guide profiles (3 and 4).
There may be a nuance here. If you plan to install a frame from a straight or shaped stop (profiles 9 or 10), then the length of guides 3 and 4 will decrease by 3 mm (1.5 mm on each side due to the thickness of the frame).
Ld =Lп – 3 mm
The length of profiles 9 and 10 is always equal to the “net” height of the opening Np.
- The next question is the width of the door leaf.
This indicator depends on the total length of the opening and on the planned number of movable sashes, and on the vertical handle profile used, and even on the presence or absence of a schlegel.
With significant opening lengths, you should not strive for large door leaf widths - they turn out to be too massive and not entirely convenient to use. It is quite possible to place two, three, four or even five sashes on double-runner guides. Despite the fact that even 1500 mm is allowed, they usually try to keep the width of each within the range of 750 ÷ 900 mm.
Initial value for calculating the width of the sash ( Lс) – opening length Lп and the planned number of sashes.
The following ratios are used for calculations:
| Presence of Schlegel | Profile C  | Profile H  |
|
|---|---|---|---|
| 2 doors | - without schlegel | Lс = (Lп + 25) / 2 | Lс = (Lп + 35) / 2 |
| - with Schlegel | Lс = (Lп + 15) / 2 | Lс = (Lп + 25) / 2 | |
| 3 doors | - without schlegel | Lс = (Lп + 50) / 3 | Lс = (Lп + 70) / 3 |
| - with Schlegel | Lс = (Lп + 40) / 3 | Lс = (Lп + 60) / 3 | |
| 4 doors | - without schlegel | Lс = (Lп + 50) / 4 | Lc = (Lp + 70) / 4 |
| - with Schlegel | Lс = (Lп + 30) / 4 | Lс = (Lп + 50) / 4 | |
| 5 doors | - without schlegel | Lс = (Lп + 100) / 5 | Lс = (Lп + 140) / 5 |
| - with Schlegel | Lс = (Lп + 90) / 5 | Lс = (Lп + 130) / 5 |
In order not to get confused in the formulas, we suggest using the built-in calculator, which will quickly calculate the required sash width