Walls in a wooden house with hands. Interior decoration of a wooden house: recommended materials

Wood construction will probably always exist. There is a very good atmosphere in such buildings, and the appearance of a well-built house, according to the most conservative estimates, is attractive. Finishing wooden house inside is a separate topic with many nuances: wood is a special material, the characteristics and properties of which are worth taking into account. About technical and technological features finishing works in a wooden house and we’ll talk.

When to start

On a “fresh” log house, you can begin finishing work no earlier than the main shrinkage has passed. If the log house is made of laminated timber, it should take 3-4 weeks. For all other types of wooden houses, the period is calculated in months, and sometimes years. The exact shrinkage time depends on the initial moisture content of the raw materials, climate zone and construction time. That's how difficult it is. In any case, it’s not worth starting finishing sooner than a year later, or at least 10 months later. During this period of time, active shrinkage of the wood occurs, logs and beams decrease in size, and the insulation laid between the crowns is crushed. If you attach the trim before the main processes have completed, it will fall off or become warped. Everything will have to be removed and redone. So there's no need to rush. Moreover, there will be enough work: you need to achieve tightness of the joints, and this is not easy. Careful competent caulking is needed.

Typically, the main caulking of a log house takes place in two stages. Primary - a few weeks after installing the log house, and secondary - after about six to eight months. Each time the cracks are clogged with insulation - jute, tow, sometimes moss. It is done immediately both outside and inside, otherwise the house will warp. Therefore, they walk around the perimeter of the building, caulking alternately, each crown, now from the outside, now from the inside. Work begins from below, from the lowest row of logs or beams.

With each caulking, the frame rises by 5-7 cm. Then, under the force of gravity, it gradually settles. The compacted inter-crown insulation reliably covers the cracks. The quality of this work is very important: it not least determines how warm the house will be.

Finishing work begins inside the wooden house after the frame has settled after the second caulking. To determine whether the process is completed or not, the height of the walls is periodically measured. If there are no significant changes within two to three months, we can assume that the main processes have passed. It's time to start decorating the inside and outside of the house.

Types of wall decoration for a wooden house

If the log house itself has an attractive appearance, it is rarely sheathed. In this case, it makes sense to reduce the cost of interior finishing: sand the log or timber and tint it. Only the floors should be varnished: the varnish will prevent abrasion of the wood. And it is best to cover the walls and ceiling with tinting antiseptics or paints on water based. They do not paint over the texture of the wood, but only give it a tint, better showing the pattern. You will still have to use antiseptics to maintain the attractive appearance of the wood.

If the log or beam is normal, the caulking seam looks bad, it is sealed with a twisted cord, and the walls are finished in the same way - sanded and tinted. Everything also looks good, and the cord in the groove serves as an additional guarantee against drafts.

Ugly seams from caulk can be sealed with cord - it looks attractive, and even prevents drafts

How to cover the walls of a wooden house inside

If the frame is so crooked or old that sanding will not help, you will have to make the interior decoration of the wooden house from lining, wall panels, drywall or other material.

For any of these materials, it is better to make a lathing: this way you can level the surface of the walls. In addition, behind the sheathing there is space for free air circulation. IN wooden house this is important because only dry wood does not rot or turn black. Free air circulation between the finishing material and the wall will maintain their normal condition.

The sheathing in a house made of timber or logs is done in the same way: you need to remember that it must “float” so that the finishing does not fly off

The distance behind the sheathing is also used; it must be made in non-flammable pipes, so you need a fair amount of space for it. If necessary, you can put insulation there if your house is cold. If you spend little on heating and the house is warm, it is better not to use any additional materials: neither insulation nor vapor barrier. Wood itself does an excellent job of maintaining stable humidity in the house, and extra layers only upset the balance.

Not everyone likes attaching trim to the sheathing: if an animal or insects settle behind the sheathing, it is difficult to get rid of them. In this case, you can level the surface of the logs by removing the protruding parts and nail the finish to this surface. A perfectly flat surface is difficult to achieve, but possible. The gaps between the finishing material and the wall, which in this case still exist, were once covered with clay. It will both provide thermal insulation and protect against drafts. Technologically this is incorrect, but they do it too.

Whatever materials are used for cladding the walls of a wooden house inside, there should be a gap of at least 2-4 cm to the ceiling. For a “young” log house, this is insurance against shrinkage. For the old one - a gap to compensate for changes in the geometry of the wood. She breathes all her life: sometimes she gains moisture and swells, sometimes she dries out. The gap under the ceiling will allow the wood to easily expand or shrink, without consequences for the finish. If this is not done, then either cracks will appear or the finishing will bend/rip out. To prevent the gap from “hurting the eye,” it is covered with a ceiling plinth. It is only nailed to the stream, it is only leaned against the wall. In this case, all movements will be invisible.

Cladding inside the house

Lining is a leader among finishing materials. It is used both inside and outside the house, only with different treatments (impregnations and paints are used for exterior or interior works). It happens different types. It's not just about different types of wood or different widths boards. There are also different profiles: smooth, wavy, imitating timber or log house. There are several options in the photo below.

To decorate the inside of the house, use thin lining: 1.5-2 cm is enough. It costs less and will perform its functions. The slats can be placed horizontally, vertically, or at an angle. From combinations of all these directions you can get amazingly beautiful panels, but this is a labor-intensive task.

When nailing the sheathing or planks, you need to remember about the shrinkage of the log house and the ability of the wood to swell and shrink. Near the floor and ceiling, do not nail the trim and sheathing tightly; leave 2-4 cm to compensate for these expansions.

Both the walls and the ceiling are finished with lining. In both cases it looks more than decent, and such finishing is relatively inexpensive. It’s cheaper (and easier to do) to just cover it with plywood and stick wallpaper. By the way, this is a popular finishing option. country house inside economy class. With a sufficient level of execution, this method can be used to decorate premises not only in dacha version. The only objection is the glue that is used to make plywood. But if you take it in emission class I (approved for use in children's institutions), then probably nothing terrible will happen.

Mounting methods

Previously, they were not particularly worried and nailed the lining into the face (into the front surface) right through. IN best case scenario used nails without heads or finishing nails (their heads are very small). Sometimes the caps were covered with wood putty and sanded, sometimes the screw holes were covered with pins. This is for the most fastidious and demanding of quality finishes.

Today, even this method is considered not the most aesthetic: the traces can still be seen. To make sure nothing is visible, secret methods are used:

• nails or screws are driven at an angle into a tenon or groove;
• using clamps (clasps).

Both of these methods require patience and accuracy: thin, small nails are used, and they must be nailed in such a way as not to damage the front surface. To make it easier, you can hit not with nails, but with staples from a construction stapler. Staples are taken with a narrow back and long legs, made of stainless steel with sharpening. Although there are models of staplers that “shoot” nails with a very small head. For fastening the lining - just right. Self-tapping screws are also used. A comparison of the two methods is made in the video.

There is one caveat. If you did not buy the lining chamber drying(its humidity is 7-8%) it will gradually dry out. Gaps will appear between the planks and you will either have to put up with them or re-nail all the planks. Sometimes two or three times. There is no way to avoid this. You can only choose a profile in which the cracks will be invisible (the “Softline” and “Standard” profiles in the figure in the previous section). In this regard, you need to think carefully about how best to secure the lining for the first time: it will have to be removed. Therefore, it is advisable to make it so that it is not difficult and so that it does not collapse. Here everyone decides for themselves: for some it is more convenient to work with self-tapping screws, for others with nails. Both methods are not ideal (it is difficult to pull out nails, and you need to drill a hole under the head of the screw), but both are acceptable.

Sometimes it becomes necessary to connect the lining to a wall made of logs. Difficulty may arise due to the fact that the wall has a non-linear shape. You can outline it using a small piece of lining, to which a simple pencil is attached. Having placed the plank and moving it along the wall with a piece of clapboard with a pencil, transfer the shape of the log onto the plank. By carefully cutting along the intended line, you can achieve an almost perfect match.

Wall panels for interior decoration

Decorating the inside of a wooden house with wall panels gives a completely different stylistic result. This finishing material is made from different materials with different textures:

• wood;
• bamboo;
• MDF (laminated and veneered);
• glass (smooth with photo printing, embossed, colored, transparent, matte);
• plastics and plastics;
• skin.

They come in typesetting or panel form. Stacked - long thin elements connected to each other according to the tongue-and-groove principle. Lining is essentially also wall panels. It’s just that it has long been used as an independent category of finishing materials. Panel wall panels differ in geometry - they have comparable length and width.

Everything is usually assembled onto a sheathing (like lining), the bars of which are filled taking into account the dimensions of the chosen finish. This material is loved by designers: materials, texture and color solutions allow you to realize a variety of ideas. Such interior decoration of a wooden house can be very expensive - made of leather - or cheap - MDF panels. But the appearance is quite decent.

If, according to the technology, wall panels must be laid with glue (gypsum, for example), then backing boards - plywood, gypsum fiber board, etc. - are attached to the sheathing (you remember that in a wooden house it needs to be made floating). The slabs are installed on this substrate with glue. An example is shown in the video.

How to sheathe the inside of a wooden house with plasterboard

The technology for working in a house made of wood or another material is no different: the frame is assembled, and drywall is attached to it. Only, as in the case of sheathing for lining, you need to leave gaps near the floor and ceiling. The only condition: this type of interior finishing of a wooden house is possible only after complete shrinkage (at least several years must pass and the house must be heated). Gypsum is a fragile material and with significant changes it will simply tear. The only option that will allow you to ignore them to some extent is to make a floating frame, attaching the profiles to the walls not rigidly, but leaving freedom of movement. Then the frame will settle on its own, and the drywall will remain in place.

Using what and how to make a floating sheathing for fastening rigid finishing materials (plasterboard, foundations) ceramic tiles etc.) watch the video.

Another feature of finishing a wooden house with plasterboard: all joints, seams and corners must be glued with a polymer reinforcing mesh. It will prevent the formation of cracks in the most problematic areas (or slow down their formation). If you need to line a house made of timber with plasterboard inside, but you really don’t want to lose precious centimeters of space due to the installation of profiles, you can do it as in the next video. There are some good tips.

Features of the interior decoration of an old wooden house

If a house made of timber or logs has stood for several decades, first of all you need to assess the condition of the wood. To do this, remove all the trim and “pick” at all suspicious spots - darker or darker light color, differing in structure or texture. This can be done with a screwdriver, chisel, even a knife. If the wood is dense throughout, there are no signs of destruction, everything is fine, you can begin finishing. You may need to first impregnate walls and other structures with a protective impregnation to protect the wood for several more decades. But not all owners of wooden houses agree to chemical treatment, so it’s up to you to decide.

If the wood crumbles due to your efforts, you need specialist advice. It is necessary to determine what caused the damage - insects, fungi or microorganisms - and what measures need to be taken. Then the damaged pieces or elements are replaced, Special attention paying attention to treatment with antiseptics and protective impregnations adjacent areas.

After assessing or “treating” the wood, you can begin to update its appearance. The interior decoration of an old wooden house is no different from those described above. The only reason is that shrinkage is not worth taking into account: there is no longer any significant progress. So from this side everything is somewhat simpler.

When and how is the interior of the walls of a wooden house finished? And in general, is this really necessary, since the tree itself looks good?

These questions are of considerable interest to owners country cottages and dachas. After all, according to statistics, about a third construction projects residential purposes in rural areas built from lumber.

So, let's try to figure out why finishing is needed interior walls wooden house.

What caused the need for finishing

As already mentioned, about a third of low-rise buildings outside the city are built using lumber. IN in this case, this is a rounded log or timber.

According to some lovers of rustic aesthetics, a log wall looks original and attractive. But if you set out to give your living space the look of a room in a city apartment, you can’t do without additional finishing.

In addition, high-quality wall finishing inside a wooden house, in addition to aesthetic advantages, guarantees practical benefits. For example, leveling log walls from the inside sheet material, a layer can be integrated into the resulting gaps thermal insulation material and thus reduce the thermal conductivity of the entire structure.

We list the main options for finishing walls in a wooden house and tell you about ways to implement them.

Sheathing with OSB boards

The walls of a log cabin can be easily leveled using oriented strand boards (OSB).

Technology facing works next:

• Using a water level and a flat plank, we determine the relief on the walls;
• We make a lathing from wooden slats with a step between adjacent slats of 0.6-1 m;
• we lay the battens in the gaps insulating materials, such as stone wool;
• fasten on top of the sheathing waterproofing materials, for example glassine;
• Next we install oriented strand boards.

Installation of OSB is carried out with some offset of one row of slabs relative to the other. This is done to give the finish the greatest strength.

After the internal wall cladding is completed, the gaps between the slabs are filled with polymer putties and sanded. Further, walls finished with OSB can be used as a rough base for wallpapering, painting, tiling, etc.

The advantages of the method include the following:

• affordable price of the material;
• ease of finishing work;
• versatility of using finished cladding;
• environmental safety of finishing;
• the possibility of using heat-insulating and sound-proofing materials;
• possibility of laying engineering communications under the finishing layer.

Sheathing with plasterboard

If you are faced with the question of how to decorate the walls of a wooden house, it’s time to think about using drywall. GVL sheets- this is a universal solution for covering various surfaces, provided the degree of humidity in the room does not exceed 60% .

Installation of sheets is simple, moreover, due to the use of this finishing material, in a wooden house you can implement various complex architectural solutions. The technology for installing plasterboard sheets is in many ways similar to installing OSB boards, only an order of magnitude simpler.

To work you will need:

• GVL slabs (standard sizes are determined in accordance with the characteristics of the room and the budget allocated for the project);
• metallic profile;
• self-tapping screws;
• gypsum-based putty;
• screwdriver;
• “glass” nozzle for drilling holes for switches and sockets;
• mounting knife;
• hacksaw;
• water level;
• roulette;
• cord;
• container for diluting putty;
• spatulas (rubber and metal).

The instructions for carrying out the work are as follows:

• We cut the profile into strips of the required length and fasten it to the wall surface with self-tapping screws in increments 60 cm from each other;
• If necessary, we supplement the vertical profiles with horizontal jumpers;
• In the spaces between the profile we immediately place utility lines and a layer of heat and sound insulating material;

Important: The use of sound insulation is mandatory, since the empty space between the walls and the cladding will cause resonances, which will increase the perception of noise in the room.

• Next, we attach the sheets of drywall. We do this so that the screws are recessed flush with the surface, but not too deep so that the finishing material does not crack;
• After the drywall is installed, we drill holes for sockets and switches and route the corresponding cables into them;
• We fill all joints, reliefs and recesses under the heads of self-tapping screws with putty mixture and level them;
• After the putty has dried, carefully sand the surface to a perfectly smooth state.

The advantages of the method include:

• tight deadlines for installation work;
• durability of the finished result;
• the ability to carry out installation work with your own hands from start to finish;
• fire safety of wall cladding;
• environmental safety of the solution due to the zero content of toxins and allergens.

However, there is a drawback - the finishing material does not tolerate excess humidity, and therefore installation of drywall is advisable only in dry rooms with the obligatory use of high-quality waterproofing.

Installation of wall panels

Wall panels- a wide range of finishing materials from which you can choose best option in relation to the features of the construction site.

The entire range of wall panels can be divided into two categories:

• moisture-resistant modifications– made using natural solid wood, plastic or plywood, laminated on both sides;
• non-moisture resistant modifications– made using cork or chipboard.

Let's look at the main points of installation of the most common ones:

• On wooden wall we stuff horizontal slats in increments 60 cm;

Important: You need to make sure that all slats protrude forward the same distance (this is checked by a level beam and a water level).

• We fix the internal corner element in a vertical position in the corner;
• We install horizontal finishing elements at the lower and upper points of the wall;
• The first is in the corner element on the side where the tenon is located, while the groove is fixed with shoe nails or a stapler;
• We continue installation around the perimeter of the room until the desired result is achieved.

When to start finishing work

Undoubtedly, the question of how to decorate the walls in a wooden house is very important, but it is no less important to take into account optimal timing start of finishing work.

Just erected log house will undergo shrinkage within 1-3 years. If finishing work is completed earlier than necessary, the wall panels may fall or become bent.

To prevent this from happening, the interior of a wooden house should be clad no sooner than a year and a half after the completion of construction.

Conclusion

Cladding the walls of a wooden house is not difficult. Achieving optimal results will be achieved by following technological requirements and observing the deadlines for the start of finishing work.

A private house built of wood cannot always be considered a finished structure, since in many cases it requires external and internal finishing of the walls. There are many different options, but not all of them are suitable for covering this type of building. In this article we will look at how you can cover a wooden house inside and outside and how best to do it yourself.

When to sheathe a wooden house

To begin with, it is worth highlighting those buildings that initially it does not make sense to sheathe the outside in any way, much less insulate them. Whatever finishing option you choose, it will not be cheap, and therefore is not practical for wooden houses for summer or periodic use. As for decorating the inside of a home, this is more a matter of design and the wishes of the homeowner than a necessity. After all, wooden walls made of timber or rounded logs always look attractive.

Now let's look at cases where wooden houses are sheathed from the outside:

• there is a good-quality and strong frame available, but it is quite old, which is why the appearance of the building leaves much to be desired;
• frame buildings made of wood must be clad in any case on both sides, this is their design;
• if a wooden house, built from timber or logs, needs additional protection and wall insulation.

It is not uncommon to find log houses that have stood for more than 50 years and are ready to serve for the same amount of time. Additional cladding from the street will not only change the appearance of the home for the better, but also protect the wood from precipitation and thus extend its service life. The same protection will not interfere with walls that need insulation. Since thermal insulation is usually carried out outside, and not inside, a wooden house, the insulation needs to be hidden behind a water barrier and covered, which will be discussed later.

Advice. Exterior finishing of a wooden house that has just been erected is carried out after 1 year. The shrinkage of buildings of this type is quite significant, as a result of which the external design of the finished walls may suffer and everything will have to be redone.

Materials for external and internal finishing

Regardless of wide choose facing materials, their list for wooden houses is somewhat limited due to various reasons. For example, it is relatively inexpensive to decorate a house using plaster, but this method is only suitable for frame buildings sheathed on the outside with OSB sheets, as shown in the diagram below. Plaster it log house or a dwelling made of timber will be problematic.

As can be seen in the diagram, the basic mineral wool insulation located inside the wall is supplemented by a layer of polystyrene foam or expanded polystyrene attached to sheets of OSB plywood sheathing. And only after that the tinted one is applied decorative plaster. But such facade decoration is rare for a wooden house; the following materials for external cladding are more common:

• vinyl siding;
• wood siding, the so-called block house;
• lining;
• complex system “ventilated facade”.

For reference. The cheapest and fastest way to cover the walls of a house is with painted corrugated sheets; this practice also takes place. But at the same time, the design of the building looks very cheap and resembles an industrial building. In addition, corrugated sheets quickly fade in the sun and lose color. Unless you buy expensive material coated with a pattern, as in the photo:

Vinyl siding is a very popular material, it is relatively inexpensive and retains its appearance for a long time, and with its help it is quite possible to sheathe a wooden house yourself. It will be more expensive to decorate the walls with other siding - imitation timber and rounded logs called “block house”.

This is a very attractive and cute material, but requires care, like ordinary lining made of wood.

If we talk about what is the best way to cover a wooden house without reference to the cost of materials, then the “ventilated facade” system is beyond competition. It is a frame made of galvanized profiles, inside of which insulation is attached, and on the outside – finishing elements. Moreover, the latter can look like siding, brick or natural stone - your choice. True, the system can hardly be called cheap, and not every homeowner can handle the installation.

It is easier to solve the problem than to decorate the walls of a wooden house from the inside. For this purpose the following are most often used:

• regular and moisture-resistant drywall;
• OSB chip sheets;
• ordinary cladding boards - lining.

Drywall and OSB are an excellent basis for installing any finishing layer - various wallpapers, tiles and other materials. Moisture-resistant gypsum boards are perfect for internal lining bathroom, and the lining is for a bathhouse built inside the house. OSB boards are not used so often inside buildings, since drywall is much more environmentally friendly.

A few words about the insulation materials used. It is well known that houses built of wood must “breathe”. This means that the wall material is transparent to vapor, due to which moisture from inside the premises is removed to the outside, passing through the wood. If a vapor-tight barrier is placed in their path, then moisture will begin to condense in front of it, which will lead to the gradual destruction of the fence. Therefore, the use of water-repellent polymers such as penoplex or penofol is not recommended.

The best solution for insulation when finishing a wooden house is mineral or basalt wool. It is vapor permeable and absolutely not subject to combustion.

An exception to the rule is a frame building, where the mineral wool layer is part of the enclosing structure, and main wall No. Here the insulation is protected from the penetration of vapors by a film on one side and waterproofing on the other, as shown in the diagram:

Covering a wooden house with siding

This exterior finishing of the house can be done with or without insulation, as necessary. But in any case, it is necessary to provide between the vinyl siding and the wall air gap for ventilation. Its task is to remove moisture entering from the outside onto the diffusion membrane, which plays the role of a hydro- and wind barrier. This is why vinyl siding sheets are not attached directly to walls, no matter how smooth they are. First you need to assemble the sheathing from wooden beams, less often - from galvanized profiles.

Advice. Before covering an old log house, you should thoroughly caulk the cracks between the logs, using natural materials - felt, tow or moss.

Width of bars for sheathing during installation exterior finishing without insulation it should be from 3 to 5 cm to provide an air gap. The interval between the slats is 40-50 cm. But first of all it is laid diffusion membrane, it is capable of allowing vapor to pass through, but reflecting water. The membrane sheets are laid horizontally, starting from the bottom, with an overlap of 10 cm and taped at the joints. After this, it is pressed with bars or sheathing profiles installed vertically.

Note. If installation is planned vertical siding, then the bars should be fastened horizontally. They should first be treated with an antiseptic composition.

Also, all openings – windows and entrance doors. In this case, it is better to nail wooden elements to the wall rather than screw them with self-tapping screws. The latter do not allow structures to move during shrinkage or thermal expansion. An important point: the surfaces of all bars must be strictly vertical and aligned in one plane. Now you can begin installing the siding, using the starting and other types of planks shown in the figure:

When adjusting the siding, it is important to take into account its thermal elongation, so the ends of the vinyl strips should not rest against the nests of the corner strips standing on the sides (meaning horizontal installation). The strips must be cut and inserted between the planks with a gap of 3-5 mm, and the nails must not be driven in all the way. That's why they're made in siding oval holes so that the strip can move a little. By the way, installation is carried out from starting bar- down up.

When the length of 1 strip is not enough to cover the entire wall of a wooden house, then you need to install one or more connecting strips, placing them as aesthetically as possible. Although siding can be laid with an overlap (without a strip), it looks similar connection unpleasant, and therefore should be used as a last resort. Well, there are special vinyl planks for framing windows and doors.

If it is decided to combine the finishing process with insulation, then the work procedure also includes laying thermal insulation material. Considering its thickness (at least 100 mm, and in the northern regions up to 150 mm), it is necessary to take lathing bars of the appropriate width. Moreover, the membrane is not applied directly to the wall, but already on top of the insulation. It is secured by nailing 30 mm thick counter-lattice strips on top. Further work is carried out in the same way as described above.

Decorating a wooden house with a block house

In essence, a block house for cladding a house is the same siding, only made of wood, and the algorithm for carrying out the work is the same.

True, there are a number of differences that we will focus your attention on:

• There are no starting, corner or connecting strips here. All joints will have to be faced from the outside with shaped wooden elements;
• block house strips are cut strictly to size, and when forming the internal and external corners the material is cut at an angle of 45° for joining;
• The panels are fastened from bottom to top using nails or special clamps. True, the latter tend to unbend and the stripes may fall out over time;
• When the boards are oriented horizontally, it is better to install them with the tenon up and the groove down.

One of the most complex nodes– adjoining of the cladding in the form internal corner. Of course, you can ignore the resulting gap and sheathe the corner with a shaped element. But in order for the cladding of a wooden house with a block house, made by yourself, to be of high quality, it is worth cutting out an arched cutout in the adjacent part, as shown in the photo:

At the end on finished surface an antiseptic primer is applied, after which it is finished with several layers of varnish or paint.

Interior finishing with clapboard

This is one of the most popular methods of cladding the inside of private wooden houses, used in almost all rooms, and especially in the steam room. There are currently several types of lining available for sale:

• classical;
• block house;
• softline;
• landhouse;
• American.

The technology for covering walls inside the house is the same for all types, and work begins with installing a vapor-proof layer of film and installing the sheathing. The film is laid out with an overlap of 10 to 15 cm, after which the joints should be carefully taped with double-sided or regular tape. From above it is pressed against the wall with sheathing slats, whose thickness is 20 mm. The slats are nailed to the wall vertically (when installing the cladding horizontally) at intervals of 40-50 cm.

Important. All sheathing slats must be placed in one vertical plane using various pads or mounting wedges.

The first board is secured with self-tapping screws at a distance of 40-50 mm from the floor, taking into account the subsequent installation of the plinth. It is best to secure all subsequent planks using metal elements- clamps, put on the previous board and nailed to the sheathing bars with nails. It is not recommended to fasten the sheathing by driving nails into the grooves of the lining.

As with the outer cladding of a house with a block house, all joints and corners should be lined with shaped parts or wooden baseboard. After this, all that remains is to treat the wood with an antiseptic and cover it with several layers of varnish. The finishing technology is shown in more detail in the video:

Interior finishing with plasterboard

Drywall is an excellent material for rough finishing of any internal surfaces of a wooden house, including the ceiling. Also, moisture-resistant plasterboard is indispensable in rooms with high humidity - in bathrooms and dressing rooms. Subsequently, you can lay tiles on it or apply liquid wallpaper. The technology here is simple: first, galvanized profiles are attached to the wall or ceiling so that their shelves are in the same plane. To strengthen the structure between vertical profiles jumpers are installed from the same profiles.

Sheets of drywall are screwed to the shelves of the profiles with self-tapping screws so that their caps are flush with the surface of the plasterboard. The step between adjacent screws is 10-15 cm. Where it is impossible to screw a whole sheet, you need to accurately measure and cut off part of it. This is done with a sharpened knife or a specialized tool. When the wall is completely sewn up, the joints and heads of the screws need to be leveled with putty, which should be rubbed down after drying sandpaper. At this point, the surface is ready for further cladding.

Conclusion

Thanks to currently existing facing materials, it is possible to give any wooden house a presentable appearance, and even “turn” it into stone using external cladding. In addition, finishing will allow you to preserve the wood longer and increase the service life of the building as a whole. It will not be superfluous to take steps to insulate the outside of the house, which will result in lower heating costs.

How to decorate the inside of a log house? Although the surface of log walls looks beautiful on its own, most often you have to look for options for finishing it: the wood will quickly darken and lose its original appearance; in addition, the walls, floor and ceiling in the premises need protection from moisture.

Log walls look quite monotonous and significantly limit the choice of design solutions. If you want to create a non-standard and at the same time environmentally friendly interior, you can use a variety of options for finishing materials.

What materials can be used to decorate a house?

When choosing how to decorate a log house from the inside, you should immediately abandon the use of materials of artificial origin: this plastic panels, most types of linoleum, cheap laminate etc. Synthetic materials and all kinds chemical impregnations and dyes reduce environmental friendliness: they block natural air exchange and deprive a wooden house of one of its main advantages.

Choice natural finish wide enough, so an eco-friendly interior can be created in the most different options. What materials should you consider first?

• Finishing materials of wood origin. This is parquet, parquet and terrace board for the floor, lining and block house for walls and ceilings, all types can be classified as cork coverings. They will allow you to create an interior in natural colors, and if desired wooden materials can be covered various colors and water-based varnishes.
• Plasterboard for walls and ceilings. Such interior decoration in a log house can be used if the building was built a long time ago and the logs have darkened over time.

Drywall sheets are breathable and do not contain any harmful components. With their help, you can quickly create a smooth wall surface and use various materials for finishing.

• Plaster is another option that allows you to level the walls. log house and prepare them for further painting or tiling. The interior decoration of a log house has its advantages: it increases the heat and sound insulation qualities of the building, allows you to choose various options decorative coatings.

Can be purchased modern plaster, which itself can imitate other finishing materials. It is important to remember that plaster cannot be applied directly to log walls; you will need to install a shingle frame, and this requires both time and money.

In a new log house, finishing the inside of a log house does not always require completely covering the walls. If you are satisfied with the natural interior of the house, the logs can be treated with transparent glazing compounds to protect them from moisture and not be covered with any additional cladding. The paint layer will have to be renewed periodically, this will allow the walls to remain in their original form for a long time.

The main stages of finishing a house

How to decorate a log house from the inside? When construction is completed and all communications have been laid, you can move on to decorative finishing.

It usually starts from the ceiling so as not to damage any other coatings, the next step is the walls, and the final floor is finished. Finishing a log house from the inside may not take too much time; it is carried out in the following steps:

• Ceiling covering. The rough ceiling consists of beams and floor boards, this is what you need to build on during finishing. The beams may not be covered, making them an important part of the interior, but more often they are completely hidden under the ceiling covering.

Between the beams there are insulation material and wiring, after which they are covered with clapboard or plasterboard sheets. If the height of the room allows, you can use suspended ceiling selected configuration. The simplest option is ceiling boards and paint or whitewash, the most expensive is modern veneer panels with a varnished finish.

• The interior decoration of the walls of a log house begins with sanding and caulking, which can be replaced by sealing the seams special compounds silicone based. If you plan to cover gypsum boards, install on the walls metal carcass, to which the sheets will be attached.

Important! WITH inside It is not recommended to insulate your home, otherwise the logs will quickly begin to rot. It is better to leave an air gap between the frame and the gypsum board or panels. Smooth plasterboard sheet You can cover it with wallpaper or use other materials.

When installing drywall on walls, be sure to use serpyanka tape for gypsum board joints. Serpyanka tape prevents cracks from appearing at the joints of sheets.

• Solid boards can be used as flooring; in this case, the floor can be painted or varnished. This coating will look organic in a wooden interior; the boards are connected to each other in a tongue-and-groove manner.

A similar type of coating is parquet, but it will have much more complex drawing. Laying parquet is a painstaking job that is best left to professionals.

There are dozens of options for how to decorate the inside of a log house, and the list of materials suitable for finishing a house is constantly growing. The owner can use the most non-standard solutions, To obtain interesting interior, which will be pleasant for both family members and guests.

It is only important that design solution did not reduce the environmental friendliness of the building. Then living in a wooden house will not only be pleasant, but also healthy.

The interior decoration of a residential building built from wood is the most important stage its arrangement. This issue must be approached as responsibly as possible. After all, the comfort and durability of the house depend on the quality of finishing activities.

Decorating a house made of wood - the main rules

Natural wood – construction material, whose popularity never declines. Residential buildings made from it are characterized by unique environmental friendliness and a special aura. A person feels truly comfortable in them, especially when the interior decoration of an old or new wooden house is carried out according to all the rules of construction science. The latter are not that difficult.

First of all, you need to take into account the following: the arrangement of the log house inside is carried out strictly after its shrinkage (if we are talking about a new building). As a rule, finishing work begins 1–1.5 years after the construction of the house. Note that buildings made from wild logs require more time to shrink, since such wood initially has a high moisture content. Buildings made from rounded logs can be finished 10 months after their construction, and houses made from laminated veneer lumber can be finished within a month and a half.

For the interior decoration of residential buildings made of wood, it is advisable to use natural materials. Of course, modern facing products have many advantages. But still, natural materials combine better with wooden structures.

Creating proper vapor and thermal insulation is of great importance. Everything is simple here. When arranging vapor protection, we adhere to the following principle - each subsequent facing layer laid towards the street must be characterized by a higher vapor transmission potential than the previous one. If this rule is not followed, the house will be damp, which will lead to rotting of the wood, the formation of fungus and mold. Nuance. Insulation is required only for old buildings, the walls of which have become dilapidated and have lost their natural thermal insulation capabilities. New log houses do not need additional protection from the cold.

The finishing of the buildings we are interested in is carried out strictly after the installation of all planned utilities. It is executed sequentially. First we caulk the gaps on the walls (from the inside). Then we cover the walls, produce ceiling work, install the floor covering. Final stage works - staining finishing products and painting them. Next we will talk about all these stages in more detail.

How to cover the walls - lining, plasterboard or MDF?

We begin the work by treating all wood surfaces and utility network elements with an antiseptic solution. Protective composition will protect the tree from premature aging and destruction, will reduce the risk of mold formation and the appearance of larvae. After this, we begin caulking the holes and cracks in the walls. The procedure is labor-intensive, but not complicated. Special knowledge she doesn't demand it. We fill the gaps in the walls from the inside of the house with any suitable material. It can be natural moss, hemp, felt, tow. We carry out caulking from the bottom up, and along all the walls at once.

In the case where the log house was recently erected and its walls have beautiful view, there is no point in sheathing them with additional materials. It would be much wiser to emphasize the natural attractiveness of wood. To do this, it is enough to sand the wall surfaces and then paint them. As a result, we will get an ethno-style finish. If this option does not suit us, we can use the following for cladding walls in a wooden private house:

• lining;
• block house;
• Wall panels;
• MDF (fibreboard), plasterboard.

Finishing with clapboard is the most affordable way to decorate walls from the inside. It is the one that is used most often by home craftsmen. A type of lining is a block house. It is a product that imitates natural logs. Installation of a block house and lining is carried out according to the same principle. A little later we will look in detail at the technology for installing these materials. Plasterboard and fibreboards They are very rarely used for cladding houses made of wood. They cancel out the natural beauty of the tree. They make the house look like a standard city apartment.

Both the block house, the lining, and other products are attached to a pre-made sheathing (frame). Installation of facing materials directly on a wooden wall is not recommended. And that's why. The lathing performs several important functions at once. Firstly, there remains some free space between it and the wall. It ensures (natural) air circulation, thereby guaranteeing an optimal indoor climate. Secondly, behind the sheathing you can lay a layer of thermal insulation and various communications, from electrical wiring to pipes.

The frame is made from metal profiles or from well-dried timber.

The lathing should not be closely adjacent to the ceiling surface or floor. Experts advise deviating from the indicated bases by 2–3 cm. We install guides for the sheathing in increments of 50–60 cm. We fix them to the walls using self-tapping screws. Work on creating the frame takes a minimum of time. At the same time, they allow us to obtain a perfectly leveled base on which any cladding can be installed.

Lining and block house, as noted, are often used for interior decoration of wooden houses. Let's see how to work with such materials, remembering that they are mounted according to the same principle. To begin with, let’s choose the right lining. We will need thin products, optimally 15–20 mm. They are suitable for covering both walls and ceilings. They can be mounted at a certain angle, both vertically and horizontally. If desired, you can combine all of the above methods for installing cladding products to get original finish– full-fledged decorative panel. True, not every craftsman can achieve such a result with his own hands.

Fastening the lining to wooden base or the frame is performed in three ways. The first involves fixing the finishing material using finishing nails with small heads or without them at all. Subsequently, the upper parts of the hardware are puttied and sanded. This type of fastener is practically not used these days. It was replaced by the so-called secret installation technologies. In such cases, the fastening elements are very thin screws or nails driven into the groove or tenon of the lining at a certain angle, as well as clamps. Such details are practically invisible on the finished surface. But working with them requires maximum care. One careless movement, and the front surface of the block house (lining) will be damaged.

Sheets of plasterboard are fixed to the sheathing with self-tapping screws of small thickness. But the fastening of most modern wall panels made of gypsum, plastic, bamboo, veneered and laminated MDF is carried out using a tongue-and-groove system. The latter guarantees a flawless surface - smooth, beautiful, with a complete absence of noticeable seams and joints. Some decorative panels (plastic, gypsum), in addition, can be glued to the base, if the base is a frame made of plasterboard or plywood sheets.

Let's say a few words about the ceiling lining. It can be produced using the materials we have already described. The principle of their installation will be similar. Important! It is better not to use a wooden carriage for arranging ceilings in bathrooms and kitchens. It’s smarter to decorate these rooms tensile structures, which are not afraid of high humidity. If the ceiling surface has an attractive appearance, do not spoil it with clapboard, plasterboard or decorative panels. In such a case, it is better to carefully sand each log on the ceiling and treat it with an antiseptic and fire retardant. And then cover the surface with colorless varnish. The volume of finishing work will increase. But we will be able to admire and admire the natural beauty of the wood above our heads every day.

What should the floors in a log house be like?

Floor coverings in wooden houses can be installed without any problems. We take into account that in such buildings the floors are made on joists. Therefore, as finishing You can use solid boards, parquet, linoleum, carpet, laminate, painted or varnished wood panels. The main thing that flooring harmonized with the wood, as well as with other elements created interior. Then we can achieve perfect decor dwellings.

The process of arranging floors in wooden houses is as follows:

1. 1. We build a rough lower base.
2. 2. We install insulating material and waterproofing between the joists.
3. 3. Install the rough foundation boards (upper part of the structure).
4. 4. Lay down the finishing material.

If we are laying a solid board on the floor, we choose products made from cedar or larch. They are chic appearance and have long term operation. Hardwood and cedar plank floors last for decades. They require regular, but not easy care, which eliminates the possibility of their premature destruction. Solid boards can be installed directly on the subfloor. The scheme of work will be like this:

1. 1. Cut off the tenon from the first facing product. We install it to the wall.
2. 2. We install thin (up to 25 mm) spacers between the wall and the first board. They will need to be removed after finishing the flooring work.
3. 3. Drill holes in the rough base. We secure the board in them, using self-tapping screws.
4. 4. We connect the second massive product with the first (tongue and groove). We hammer it along its entire length with a mallet. We attach it to the joists with a self-tapping screw.
5. 5. Lay the remaining boards in the same way.
6. 6. Sand the resulting coating. We open it with varnish.
7. 7. We install skirting boards around the perimeter of the room.

Floors from solid board Every two years it should be re-varnished. The procedure is easy and does not require excessive costs.

If you plan to lay parquet boards, the labor intensity of the work will increase. The principle of installing such a coating is similar to the installation of massive products (the same tongue-and-groove system). But in such cases we need to achieve maximum evenness floor base. In addition, you will need to make a special underlay for the parquet. It is made from sheets of plywood (necessarily moisture-resistant), which are mounted on the subfloor. We lay them out in a staggered manner and fix them with self-tapping screws. After this, we begin installing the parquet. We lay the covering one strip at a time, attaching each of them to the substrate. Parquet flooring can be fixed with hardware. But it's better to use glue. Parquet board After installation, we sand and varnish.

It is also necessary to install a plywood underlay in cases where carpet or linoleum is used as a covering. Without a flat surface it will not be possible to lay them properly. The process of laying such materials, I think, will not cause any difficulties for anyone. Ceramic tiles are used very rarely for finishing floors in wooden houses. There are several reasons for this:

1. 1. Wood under tiles practically does not breathe. This causes rotting of the natural material and its early destruction.
2. 2. There is no point in covering warm wood with cold tiles.
3. 3. Static wooden bases not tall. And laying tiles requires the most stable base surface.

If all this doesn’t scare us, we can install ceramic tiles as a finishing touch to the floor. But first we level the base by filling concrete screed or flooring cement-bonded or moisture-resistant plasterboard (gypsum fiber) boards.

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