How to cover lilies. Is it possible to plant on clay soil?

Lily - tender and graceful plant, which is very whimsical. Not all lily varieties can safely withstand the harsh Russian frosts. The further growth and flowering of the plant depends on how correctly you organize wintering for it. The peculiarities of its wintering directly depend on which variety you chose and in which region you live. Let's try to figure out how to prepare a lily for the cold weather.

Digging bulbs: timing and technology

One of the most popular methods for overwintering a lily is to dig up its bulbs, which are then stored in a cool, dry place until spring. Of course, many varieties can spend all the cold in the ground under cover. But remember that even winter-hardy lilies need to be dug up periodically: during the growing season, the mother bulb can become overgrown with daughter bulbs, which will take a considerable part of the moisture and nutrients from their parent. If they are not removed in time, flowering will not be as lush or will stop altogether. Therefore, experienced gardeners regularly dig up bulbs of all varieties to inspect, sort and process planting material.

pay attention to optimal timing autumn digging of bulbs for different groups of hybrids:

Asian hybrids and aircraft class hybrids(Longiflorum-Asiatic). This includes cold-resistant and unpretentious plants, which can winter in open ground. However, during the growing season they form a mass of daughter bulbs, so every year in mid-August (15th - 20th) they must be dug up.

American hybrids and OT class hybrids(Oriental-Tubular). They do not need frequent digging, since their daughter bulbs appear in smaller numbers. If necessary, excavation is carried out between August 25 and September 1.

Oriental hybrids. They are also slow to grow small bulbs, but they tolerate winter well. Excavation dates fall on September 1 - 5.

Digging is carried out only after aboveground part the plants will droop and turn yellow. This means that the bulb has accumulated a sufficient amount of useful substances and is ready for winter. If the stems and leaves are still green by the above dates, the procedure is transferred to last days September. An exception is made in cases where you dig up lilies not for storage, but for autumn transplant. Then the bulbs are dug up no later than September 10, otherwise the plant will not have time to take root in the new place.

It is best to dig up the bulbs with a pitchfork rather than a shovel, so as not to damage the planting material. Then they are carefully pulled out of the ground, holding the stem with their hands, and shaken off the ground.

Bulb storage conditions

If you don't plan autumn planting lilies, you will need to carry out a number of preparatory procedures. If necessary, the dug up bulbs are separated, carefully washed, the stems are cut, leaving only 4 - 5 cm, and roots that are too long (more than 5 cm) are removed. Carefully inspect each bulb: they may show signs of disease or rot; such planting material can be thrown away without regret. If you decide to remove damaged areas, then first cut them with a knife to healthy tissue, and then treat them with a swab dipped in brilliant green or fungicide. For half an hour, the bulbs, including healthy ones, are soaked in a warm solution of manganese, karbofos or foundationol. Some also wash them with laundry soap to protect the plant from onion mites. After this, roll the onions in wood ash and let dry in a dark, ventilated place. Be very careful not to overdry them, otherwise the exposed roots of the plant will die. Now the planting material needs to be sorted: large bulbs are usually used for spring forcing, and small ones can be planted in the garden in the spring.

The main condition for storing lilies at home is moderate cold so that the bulbs do not germinate or freeze. The ideal temperature for storing them is 0 - +5 °C. Also, the bulbs should be slightly moistened, and the place where they are located should be periodically ventilated.

It is best to keep the bulbs in the refrigerator. If you are using regular household refrigerator Where you place the products, make sure that the lilies are isolated from fruits and vegetables. The fact is that many fruits (apples, peaches, bananas, tomatoes, bell pepper etc.) emit ethylene gas, which will negatively affect the bulbs.

A basement or glassed-in balcony is also suitable for storing lilies, but then you will not be able to protect the planting material from temperature changes.

The bulbs are placed in a bag with slightly damp peat or sand and left alone until spring. Experienced gardeners It is recommended to place the bulbs in and wrap them in paper. Sphagnum is probably best protection for lilies. It will not only allow the bulbs to breathe, but will also retain moisture. As soon as the paper becomes damp, it is replaced. However, wintering can be not only wet, but also dry: to do this, simply place the bulbs in dry soil and cover with waterproof material.

Lilies should be checked approximately every two weeks and watered as needed. If you notice mold on the bulbs, simply treat them with a solution of potassium permanganate.

Another unusual way storing bulbs means placing them under open air. To do this, you should choose an area where the deepest snowdrifts lie, and in the spring the snow melts later. A shallow trench is dug in the ground, its walls are lined with boards and a lid is built. The storage must be lined with cardboard, dry peat and polyethylene for warmth and moisture insulation. Also take care of drainage so that the bulbs do not flood in the spring. During the thaw, packages with lilies are placed in a trench. To make it easier for you to monitor their condition, you can place plastic bags with water there. They will serve as a kind of indicator: if the water has not turned into ice, then everything is fine with the bulbs.

If you have the opportunity to place lilies in a cool (about +5 - +10 °C), bright place, you can transplant garden flowers into pots, and after the above-ground part of the plant dies, transfer them there. There is almost no need to water the bulbs: only occasionally lightly moisten the soil. Typically, this method is used in cases where storage conditions were violated and the planting material began to germinate. In the spring, lilies can again be rooted in open ground, however, they will no longer bloom this season.

Trimming and preparing winter shelter for planting

As emphasized above, in conditions middle zone For the winter, only heat-loving OT hybrids and Asian hybrids, which require preventive division of the bulb, are usually dug up. Now let's look at how to prepare lilies that will spend the winter in the open ground for the cold. There is no need to prune lilies in the fall. The processes of photosynthesis still continue to occur in the plant; during these weeks the lily accumulates strength and useful material, preparing for the winter cold. If you remove the stems and leaves at this stage, the flower will not be able to complete its preparation for frost, grow a full-fledged bulb and will die. Towards mid-November, the above-ground parts of the plant die off naturally, and then they can be removed.

As for the ovaries formed after flowering, they need to be removed in mandatory. Lily seeds are absolutely useless in gardening: the flower is not propagated by sowing, but the plant will spend a lot of effort and nutrients on fruit ripening, which will negatively affect the development of the bulb.

Asiatic lilies perfectly tolerate even the most severe frosts. They only need shelter in snowless winters. In this case, the plantings are mulched with compost or peat in the same way as in the case of eastern varieties. The timing in this situation should be somewhat different: Asian varieties are covered only after the ground freezes a little.

It's important to catch right moment to remove the cover: if you overexpose it, the sprouts will not receive enough sunlight, and if you overexpose it, they will freeze. It is best to do this after the snow cover has completely melted.

Like most bulbous plants, lilies require a special approach when preparing for the winter cold. All of the above activities will require your maximum attention, accuracy and scrupulousness. However, in the summer, the lily will definitely respond to your work and efforts with luxurious flowering and lush growth.

Perhaps hard to find country cottage area, on which lilies would not grow. The variety of varieties bred rarely leaves anyone indifferent, and every gardener strives to allocate at least a bed for these elegant, fragrant beauties. Inexperienced gardeners are more or less familiar with the rules of agricultural technology, but the question of how to store lily bulbs in winter often confuses them.

This is especially important if we are talking about rare or expensive heat-loving varieties, which are not able to winter in open ground. The same problem arises when purchasing planting material in January-February, when it goes on sale a large number of lilies. But spring is still far away, and you need to keep the bulbs intact until planting.

Requirements of different varieties for wintering

Asiatic lilies have good winter hardiness, are adapted to the Russian climate and can overwinter in the ground. To do this, it is enough to cover them with spruce branches, coniferous or leaf litter, or mulch them with peat, and the thickness of the cover should be at least 10 cm.

Bulbs of more heat-loving trumpet and oriental lilies, LA hybrids and OT hybrids should be dug up annually in the fall and sent for storage. To ensure that lilies bloom every year, many gardeners dig up all the bulbs for the winter, regardless of the variety and frost resistance of the plants.

If bulbous plants stay in one place for several years without digging them up, and their flowering deteriorates every year. On small area It is often difficult to allocate an extra corner for flowers, because there is so much you want to plant. But for lilies, an annual change of place is useful, at least every 3-4 years.

Digging up bulbs

Dig up the bulbs at the first frost. The procedure for digging and preparing for storage consists of several stages:

1. 1 Stop watering and wait until the plant dries completely - this will allow the lilies to accumulate the energy necessary for wintering and future flowering.
2. 2 Trim dried shoots and foliage at a distance of 6-7 cm from the ground.
3. 3 Carefully dig up the lilies, being careful not to touch or damage them with the spatula.
4. 4 Carefully, so as not to damage the roots, clear the bulbs of large clods of earth.
5. 5 Rinse with cool running water to remove any remaining soil - quite suitable for these purposes. suitable for garden hose.
6. 6 Inspect the planting material: healthy bulbs should show no signs of disease or rot. Discard diseased or damaged specimens; they should not be thrown into compost, because compost can spread the infection to healthy plants.
7. 7 Place the washed onions in a flat container (grid tray, tray) to dry. Lilies should be placed freely on the surface, otherwise air will not circulate well between them.
8. 8 To dry, place the bulbs in a cool, dark place - preferably in a barn or garage, where they are not exposed to Sun rays. Recommended temperature for drying is +15+18°C.
9. 9 After a few days, sprinkle the dried lilies with any fungicidal powder.

Advice: Do not dry dug lily bulbs in a heated house or apartment - sudden temperature changes and warm climatecan provoke growthmold.

Appropriate place

After drying the planting material, you need to decide how to store the lily bulbs in the winter. There are certain requirements for storage space:

• The optimal temperature at which plant development slows down, but viability remains, is 0+4°C.
• The humidity should be such that the bulbs do not shrink from dry air, but also do not begin to sprout from excessive dampness.
• The room must be regularly ventilated so that the planting material does not become moldy or rotten.

Many people use the vegetable compartment in the refrigerator as storage. On the one hand, it is convenient - you can maintain required temperature, at which the plants will be in a dormant state. On the other hand, proximity to vegetables and fruits is not entirely favorable for lilies - fruits emit ethylene, which depresses the bulbs, making it difficult for them to breathe.

As an alternative, you can store lilies in a cellar or basement during the winter, provided that the temperature there is stable and close to optimal.

If there is no basement or cellar, you can take the bulbs to a glazed balcony, loggia or garage. In this case, you need to think about good thermal insulation, because subzero temperatures harmful to plants.

Thermal chambers or homemade containers insulated with foam plastic, isover or other similar materials are usually used as containers for such storage. When constructing such a container, you should accurately calculate the thickness of the insulation that will withstand the most severe frost, characteristic of a given area - only in this case the bulbs will not die from the cold.

Despite the frost, on sunny winter days the temperature is glassed balcony may rise, and the heat will encourage the bulbs to germinate. In addition, it is necessary to ensure that the sun's rays do not fall on the container with planting material and do not heat it.

Storage methods

1. 1 Place each onion in a separate paper bag or wrap with newspaper paper in several layers. You can lay it with any absorbent material, for example, vermiculite or dry moss. Place the packaged lilies in a cardboard box, in which holes for ventilation have been made in advance. Place the box for storage (refrigerator, cellar or garage).
2. 2 Instead cardboard box use durable plastic bag, having previously made small holes in it for air access. Pour peat into a 10 cm layer at the bottom of the bag, lay a row of bulbs, then another layer of peat 10-12 cm thick. If there is a lot of planting material, then alternate layers of bulbs and peat until the bag is filled. Anyway upper layer must be made of peat. The package is tied tightly and sent to a container or box.
3. 3 Similar to method No. 2, only instead of a package they use wooden box, in which lilies are laid in layers, alternating with layers of peat or sand.

During winter storage, check the condition of the lilies monthly. If violations of the integrity of the bulbs are detected, take the necessary measures:

• Sprinkle dried roots and wrinkled scales with water from a spray bottle to add vital moisture to the plants.
• Carefully remove any mold that has appeared with a dry, soft cloth. Soak the bulbs in a bright pink solution of potassium permanganate or any fungicide for 30 minutes.
• Cut off the rotten areas with a disinfected knife to healthy tissue. Treat the sections with brilliant green or sprinkle with crushed activated carbon.
• Separate affected bulbs from healthy ones and store separately to avoid the spread of infection.

Planting in pots

Experienced flower growers know how to store lilies in peat pots, and very often use this method. To do this, the bulbs are planted in peat pots and place them in a suitable container (box, container or crate). The container with lilies is taken out to the designated storage area.

The advantages of this method are obvious:

• In spring, these same pots are planted directly in open ground.
• If there is a desire to speed up flowering, then expose the pots to light 12-14 days before planting and begin to water them. After the shoot hatches, the pots of lilies are planted in the soil.
• If the storage temperature is higher than optimal, lilies may begin to grow ahead of time. In this case, the sprouted bulbs are transplanted into ordinary pots and placed in a cool and well-lit place.

Outdoor storage

Particularly daring summer residents practice storing bulbs in the open ground, but not directly in the ground, but in a special “house” that is not difficult to arrange:

• Choose a place on the site that will be covered with a thick layer of snow in winter, and in the spring will not be flooded with groundwater and melt water, otherwise the planting material may suffer from excess moisture.
• Dig a small trench, the walls of which are reinforced with boards. Make or select a suitable size lid.
• Place small sealed bags filled with water in the trench. This little trick will help stabilize temperature changes and become a kind of indicator - frozen water in bags will indicate that the bulbs are freezing and may die from the cold.
• Place pre-packed lilies in the trench and cover the structure with a lid.
• Place several layers of cardboard on the lid and sprinkle with peat or soil. Cover the top with spruce branches or other covering material. In such a “house” the bulbs will quietly overwinter.

Save the lilies in winter time before spring planting won't be difficult. To do this, you need to choose a suitable accessible location, dig up the bulbs in time, properly prepare them for storage and regularly inspect them for rot and mold. Doing these simple but effective recommendations will allow you to enjoy the flowering of your favorite plants on your site every year.

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They are very diverse in their varieties. But everyone is similar in terms of care.

To accurately cover it before the onset of cold periods, follow the required steps:

1. Trimming.
2. Covering the bulbs.
3. Full excavation.

It is important to do this in the fall around the end of September. Many gardeners cannot find the best rule among the three options for all species and are looking for individual approach to all varieties.

How to preserve lilies in winter

So that they survive the winter and do not deteriorate or become moldy, follow the classic rules:

1. Cold-resistant varieties can be covered with leaves or manure humus in a layer of 10–15 cm.
2. Unsustainable species must be dug up.
3. The roots should never be cut off.
4. Proper storage of dug up bulbs.
5. Two weeks before planting, be sure to water them in the containers in which they were stored.
6. Precision planting in spring.

There are varieties that are not at all adapted to temperature changes. They must be dug up before the onset of cold weather.

Under ordinary shelter they will not be able to overwinter and delight you with their blooms. Therefore, they are completely dug out of the soil of the earth.

They dig in several stages:

1. Remove any dry petals or leaves.
2. Dig out completely with the head.
3. Inspect carefully appearance the bulb itself.
4. Rinse the head with warm water.
5. Soak for half an hour in a disinfectant.
6. Roll the onion in ash.
7. Dry completely.
8. Store in a cool place, checking constantly.

Once properly prepared, it should be placed in a special container and covered with a cloth similar to burlap. If possible, place moss in a container.

In this way we preserve from autumn to spring. When spring arrives, it is important to carefully examine the roots of the head and shorten them a little.

To prevent the bulbs from spoiling, also observe several storage conditions:

1. The storage location should not be very dry.
2. The storage location should not be very humid.
3. The air temperature should not be very high or low.
4. Make sure that mold does not appear.

How and when to prune lilies for the winter

If the species are resistant to cold periods, then they do not need to be completely dug up. Therefore, you should simply tear off the dry parts according to the rules, preparing for the cold.

Gardeners constantly adhere to incorrect cutting. As soon as the bud has bloomed, they immediately begin to prune the flower.

This is incorrect because after flowering the stems still have vitality and continue to accumulate nutrients.

You can also tear off leaves in several stages:

1. Start the procedure before the first cold weather sets in.
2. The leaves are cut 10 cm from the ground.
3. Gently loosen the soil.
4. Sprinkle plenty of sawdust around the tuber.
5. Cover it near the ground with film.
6. Trim old or damaged leaves annually.

The leaves and flowers die off on their own in the fall and therefore it is better not to touch them to avoid dying.

If they grow in unstable temperatures weather conditions, then it’s better to dig them up for the winter. This way you will save your life for a long time.

How and what to cover lilies for the winter

Cold-resistant varieties do not particularly need special shelter. Covering them with a snow layer of up to 10 cm will be enough for them. But it is important to know that excess moisture will be a threat, and they can freeze in the cold season.

You can cover them different materials.The main ones:

1. Wood sawdust.
2. Peat.
3. Compost.
4. Ruberoid.
5. Pieces of roofing felt.
6. Film.

They usually cover in mid-October or a little later (when the first snow falls). This is done directly a week after the first snow.

It is also important to remove the buildup in time. If you remove it ahead of schedule, the heads may freeze and will not survive the next season. And when you harvest it too late, the stems will be very thin and will not be able to grow normally.

Frequently asked questions and answers

Without knowing the care rules or not adhering to them, gardeners constantly make mistakes. But there are also solutions. It is not always possible to find them right away.

But here are some of them:

How to feed the soil for flower growth for more than one year?

The most the best fertilizer There could be potassium sulfate here. It is advisable to add it to the soil immediately after flowering. Now you will be able to preserve the heads for more than one year.

Where is the best place to plant? In the shade or in the sun?

It is important to know the main characteristics of all varieties. They feel normal both in the sun and in the shade. But those growing in the shade grow tall and must be tied up. Lilies that grow on sunny place, need abundant watering. They fade faster. Acceptable planting options would be places where the sun's rays last only half a day. Then watering should be only once a day (in the evening). Do not constantly flood the soil with water.

Is it possible to plant on clay soil?

These are flowers that do not require special soil. They can also grow in clayey areas. The main thing to remember is that drainage is needed here. It promotes rotting of the bulbs.

How to achieve lush flowering?

Follow some specifics:

1. Morning sun.
2. Intensive watering when planting a bud.
3. Fertilizer feeding.
4. Loosening the soil.
5. In the first year of flowering, cut off all buds.

What to do after flowering?

The buds fall off on their own and you don’t need to do anything. The only thing worth knowing is preparing for overwintering. You need it after flowering last time feed it, increase watering.

How to properly remove a dried bud?

There are no main differences from other herbs equipped with bulbs. You just have to remember that it is better to cut them off in the morning or evening. It is not advisable to cut with a knife as you can introduce disease. It is better to break it obliquely, then water will accumulate on the cut and the stem will not dry out.

If the heads have sprouts, how to plant them correctly?

There are only two options here:

• Wait until the bores grow to 20 cm, then plant them in the ground.
• Plant it in a pot and leave it to overwinter in it.

Why do the leaves turn yellow?

Promotes yellowing high humidity. To avoid yellowing (if it is not possible to replant), you can feed the plant. You can also treat it with Bordeaux mixture. On humid days, you can also water the photo with Spirina. This will promote the appearance of fungus.

Helpful advice:

Follow care during the cold period, and you will be able to preserve a variety of products for yourself for more than one year. color scheme a plant that won't really make you waste your time.

But you also need to take into account the characteristics of all varieties.

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