Despite the fact that the melon is a “purebred southerner”, summer residents grow it not only in the south. And all because this culture is extremely tasty and very healthy. And the varieties "for the market" are not always distinguished by high taste, not like the fruits from their own garden or greenhouse. True, the melon has its own "secrets", but they are not particularly difficult. Therefore, if you have not yet grown a melon on your acres, you should definitely try it, at least once!
Red Sea salad with squid, crab sticks and red caviar - a light and healthy appetizer that is suitable for a pescetarian menu, it can also be cooked in fast days when fish and seafood is allowed on the menu. The salad is simply delicious and easy to prepare. Buy fresh frozen squids. I do not recommend preparing a dish with giant squid fillets, although it looks appetizing and tempting, it has a sharp ammonia aftertaste that is difficult to get rid of.
From the usual fruit trees columnar are distinguished by a compact crown, low height, lack of lateral branching. With an insignificant habit, these wonderful trees are distinguished by their ability to form large yields of large, tasty and beautiful fruits. On 1-2 acres, you can place up to 20-25 columnar trees - varieties of apples, pears, plums, peaches, cherries, apricots and other crops of different ripening periods. Our article will tell you about the features of creating a columnar garden.
August can bring a little sadness - autumn, followed by a long winter, is already on the doorstep. But flower beds are still full of colors, and their color scheme creates an atmosphere of warmth and joy. The rich palette of August flower beds mainly consists of yellow, orange, and crimson tones. And it seems as if the garden has become warmer and the sunshine has increased. What flowers must be planted in flower beds so that they brighten up the inevitable departure of summer with flowering?
Peach jam with bananas is fragrant, thick, healthy and, most importantly, it has half the sugar in it than in regular jam. This is a quick jam with pectin, and pectin powder is known to reduce the sugar content of the jam, or even make it without sugar. Sugar-free jams are trendy sweets these days, they are very popular among supporters healthy way life. Peaches for harvesting can be of any ripeness, bananas too.
Coriander is one of the world's most popular spices, and its greens are called cilantro or cilantro. Interestingly, cilantro leaves no one indifferent. Some adore it and happily use it in any salads and sandwiches, and Borodino bread is loved for its special flavor of coriander seeds. Others, referring to the smell that evokes associations with forest bugs, hate coriander and flatly refuse to approach bunches of cilantro even on the market, let alone plant in their garden.
Saintpaulias are back in fashion and are reversing the idea of cute blooming violet crumbs that willingly live on any windowsill. Trends in the "market" of uzambara violets indicate a rapid increase in interest in plants with unusual leaves... More and more admiring glances are not attracting unusual colors flowers, and exotic variegated colors of leaves. Variegated Saintpaulias are almost indistinguishable from all the others in cultivation.
Sweet and sour pickled cherry tomatoes with red onion and basil, marinated with balsamic vinegar and mustard. These pickled vegetables will decorate any festive table, they are very tasty and aromatic. Marinade filling is a different story altogether: a delicious pickle is obtained, the only drawback of which is not a large number of... Choose sweet, red onions. Cherry - strong, slightly unripe, the smallest. Fresh basil works either green or purple.
My first acquaintance with hydrogel took place a long time ago. Back in the nineties, my husband brought from Japan funny multi-colored balls, which greatly increased in size if they were poured with water. They were supposed to put bouquets or use in some other decorative purposes... Of course, at first it was funny, but then I played enough and abandoned them, I don't even remember where they went. But I recently returned to using the hydrogel. I will tell you about my experience in this article.
Watermelon and summer are inseparable concepts. However, far from every site you will find melon. And all because this African plant takes up a lot of space, it is quite demanding both for heat and for the sun, and also for competent watering. But still we love watermelon so much that today not only southerners, but much more northern summer residents have learned to grow it. It turns out, and to this capricious plant you can find an approach, and if you want, then get a decent harvest.
Red gooseberry jam can be made in 10 minutes. However, it should be borne in mind that this is the time required to cook the jam without preparing the berries. It takes a lot of time to harvest and prepare berries for processing. Cruel thorns discourage any desire to harvest, but you still have to cut off the noses with tails. But the result is worth it, the jam is excellent, one of the most, in my opinion, fragrant, and the taste is such that it is impossible to tear yourself away from the can.
Monsters, anthuriums, caladiums, dieffenbachia ... Representatives of the Aroid family are considered one of the most popular categories indoor plants... And not the least factor in their widespread use is diversity. Aroid presented aquatic plants, epiphytes, semi-epiphytes, tuberous and lianas. But despite such a diversity, because of which it is sometimes difficult to guess about the relationship of plants, aroids are very similar to each other and require the same care.
Donskoy salad for the winter - a spicy appetizer of fresh vegetables in a sweet and sour marinade with olive oil and balsamic vinegar. V original recipe regular vinegar or apple cider vinegar, but with a combination of wine vinegar and light Balsamico it turns out much tastier. Salad can be prepared without sterilization - bring vegetables to a boil, put in sterile jars and wrap warmly. You can also pasteurize the workpieces at a temperature of 85 degrees, then cool quickly.
The main mushrooms harvested are porcini, limbs, boletus, chanterelles, boletus, mushrooms, russula, milk mushrooms, boletus, mushrooms, honey mushrooms. Other mushrooms are harvested depending on the region. And their name (other mushrooms) is legion. As well as mushroom pickers, of which there are more and more every year. Therefore, there may not be enough for all known mushrooms. And I know for sure that among the little-known there are very worthy representatives. About little-known, but tasty and useful mushrooms I'll tell you in this article.
The word "ampel" comes from the German word "ampel", which means a hanging container for flowers. The fashion for hanging flower beds came to us from Europe. And today it is very difficult to imagine a garden where at least one hanging basket was not found. In response to the growing popularity of container floriculture, a large number of ampel plants, whose shoots easily fall out of the pots. Let's talk about those that are prized for their beautiful flowers.
Planting fruit crops requires a responsible approach. Every nuance is important: the timing of when to plant fruit trees, the choice of the site and the seedling, the preparation of the planting pit. Let's talk about the secrets of arranging an orchard.
Article outline
When to plant fruit crops - in spring or before winter?
Let us immediately voice the factors that affect the timing of planting fruit crops:
- Type of fruit tree.
- Weather phenomena of the current season.
- Cultivation region.
- Soil type.
All fruit trees are conventionally subdivided into stone fruit and pome fruit species. It is believed that the optimal time for planting pome crops in the regions of the middle lane is autumn, and for stone fruits - spring.
Stone fruits, which include cherry, plum, apricot, cherry plum, sweet cherry, are more thermophilic and do not always have time to take root in the fall before the onset of winter cold weather. The best time for their planting is the period from mid-March to mid-April. More accurate dates depend on weather factors and the region of cultivation.
Pome crops, the most common of which are pear trees and apple trees, are less demanding to care for and more resistant to cold climates.
They are usually planted in the fall, about a month - one and a half before the onset of the first frost.
You can postpone the planting of seed trees in the spring in case of early frosts and prolonged autumn precipitation. Pome trees are planted only in spring in the northern regions and in the zone of risky farming, where no plant species can take root in the short summer and autumn.
But in southern regions any fruit trees are planted in the fall, since the first cold weather does not occur there earlier than November, and sometimes in mid-December. In addition, in the southern regions dry weather sets too early in the spring, which does not favor the rooting of seedlings.
Sometimes the planting of pome crops is transferred from autumn to spring, if on garden plot heavy soil prevails. But the planting pits are prepared anyway in the fall in order to correct the structure of the natural soil.
Let's summarize when it is better to plant fruit trees:
Choice of location and layout of fruit trees
The main mistake of gardeners is the increased attention to the type of soil and a completely ill-conceived planting scheme. The nuance lies in the fact that the type of soil is not so important for the fruit, since the structure and composition of the soil can be adjusted when the planting pits are formed. The illumination of the plantings and good natural ventilation are important.
Closely planted trees lack nutrition and moisture, and the root system is constantly in a depressed state.
If the crown of an adult tree shades adjacent plantings, the risk of infection with fungal and viral infections, pollination process flowering plants find it difficult, and this will affect the number and size of the fruit.
Compliance with the planting scheme will provide comfortable care in the future: pruning and spraying trees. Before the formation of planting holes, the planting density is calculated and a plan for the future garden is preliminarily drawn up on paper. If single plants are planted, it is important to correctly determine their distance from home, outbuildings, fences, garden paths.
Distance of seedlings from each other and from household objects during planting:
- seedlings of vigorous crops - at least 5 m - 6 m;
- medium-sized species - 4 m;
- undersized (columnar and dwarf) trees - 2 m - 3 m.
Note! For the rational use of the area between fruit trees, they are planted garden strawberries or currants.
The area for fruit crops should be illuminated by the sun for at least half the day. In the early years, young plantings must be protected from through winds, the availability of water to the root system is important. Fruit crops consume a lot of moisture, so areas with a high bedding are allocated for them. groundwater.
Selection of seedlings
The best thing fruit seedlings purchase in nurseries where trees are grown in accordance with all the rules of agricultural technology. In the nursery, you can get advice on planting and caring for a certain variety, and the probability of infection of seedlings with pests and infections will be practically zero.
Bared sapling
To prevent your purchase from becoming useless, choose zoned varieties common in your area.
A healthy seedling with an open root system should have many branches, outgrowths and Brown color on the cut - signs of disease.
The roots should be at least 25 cm - 30 cm long, the trunk should not have visible damage.
The roots of the planting material are stored wrapped in a damp cloth. If the tree, nevertheless, has dried up, immerse the roots for a day or two in settled water, into which you can add the growth stimulator Kornevin or special resuscitators for weakened plants.
Seedlings with open roots are cheaper than in containers, they may take root less well, but you can visually assess the condition of the rhizome and the tree as a whole when buying.
Seedlings in a container
Planting material in containers has almost one hundred percent survival rate, but it is still necessary to check its viability.
Turn the pot over, strong roots will grow even through the hole for excess moisture.
Gently lift the seedling by the trunk at the root. If the tree is freely removed from the pot, it means that it was transplanted a long time ago and managed to develop its roots well. In newly transplanted plants, nurseries usually cut the rhizome to fit the container.
Preparation of planting holes
The option becomes optimal when the pits for the spring planting of fruit species are prepared in the fall.
In cases where an autumn breakdown of the garden is planned, the pits are formed in the spring.
If the deadlines have been missed, it is possible to form planting pits in the current season, but no later than two weeks before planting fruit plants. This time is necessary so that the soil subsides and voids do not form, which can lead to rotting of the root system.
Stone fruit and pome fruit trees, as well berry bushes differ in size at two and three years of age. Therefore, for seedlings with open rhizomes, they dig a hole 60 cm deep and 90 cm in diameter - 100 cm.For stone seedlings and shrubs, the dimensions are slightly smaller: 40 cm deep - 50 cm and 75 cm in diameter - 80 cm. For seedlings with a closed the root system of the pit is increased in depth and in diameter by 20 cm.
Note! Fruiting occurs faster in seedlings planted in wide, but shallow pits.
Wide pits with a diameter of 1 m are made in areas with heavy soil, but the depth is left no more than 60 cm - 80 cm. On dense soils, the main part of the nutrients is concentrated in the upper, fertile soil layer. Excessive deepening of the root system will lead to nutritional deficiencies and poor adaptation of the tree.
To make the hole easier to dig, a support is driven in its center, a string is tied, at one end of which a metal peg is attached.
The peg will serve as a marker with which they draw on the ground even circle With the required diameter, after which they begin to dig.
The soil from the pit is laid out in two heaps: on one side the dark soil of the fertile layer, on the other side the lighter soil of the lower layer.
10 - 15 days before disembarkation fruit trees acidic soil lime dolomite flour or chalk, fertilizers are applied directly to the planting.
How to plant fruit trees correctly
Under fruit plants make either mineral-organic mixtures, or chemical additives without adding organic matter.
If organics are used, nitrogenous agrochemicals are no longer needed. In a pit of a meter in diameter and 60 cm deep under seed trees, they bring following fertilizers to choose from:
- 4 ten-liter buckets / 400 g (or 200 g double) / 200 g;
- 3 buckets of humus / bone meal 1 kg / simple superphosphate 200 g / potassium sulfate 200 g.
Potassium sulfate can be replaced with potassium chloride in autumn, and lovers of environmentally friendly agriculture can use ash 1 l / 1 planting pit instead of potassium additives.
Note! In pits for stone fruit crops, 40 cm deep and up to 80 cm in diameter, the amount of fertilizer applied is halved!
Planting seedlings with open roots
Half of the fertilizer is mixed with a portion of the topsoil and the nutrient mixture is placed on the bottom of the recess in a cone.
A seedling is placed on the resulting hill, the roots are evenly distributed around the circumference and the second half of the fertilizer is poured directly onto them.
In the process of adding fertilizer, the tree is shaken slightly to prevent air voids between the roots.
Then water is supplied: 2 - 4 buckets / 1 pit (depending on the age of the seedling). The pit is filled up to the level of the root collar, using the rest of the topsoil. The bottom layer is useful for forming a root hole around the perimeter of the trunk circle.
The tree is watered again, supplying water to the root hole, and then the trunk circle is mulched with foliage, straw, and mown grass. On alkaline soils, chips and sawdust can be used as mulch.
Note! Deepening the root collar of the seedling postpones the first fruiting for several seasons. When landing, it is better to leave the neck ajar. This deficiency can be easily corrected by simply adding fertile soil.
Planting seedlings with a closed rhizome
Planting plants with a clod of earth is much easier. Part of the fertilizer, as in the previous version, is mixed with half of the fertile soil and evenly distributed along the bottom of the pit.
Then a tree with a lump of earth is placed in the recess, the second half of the fertilizer is added along the edges, it is watered abundantly and the hole is filled up at the level of the upper layer of the earthen coma with the remaining fertile soil, again water and mulch the near-trunk circle.
Caring for fruit immediately after planting
In the first two seasons fruit species need abundant and regular watering. Even those trees that were planted before winter are well watered, the water supply is stopped only with the onset of cold weather.
In the first flowering of a fruit tree, it is necessary to remove all inflorescences, since the seedling will begin to give strength to fruiting and will stop the development of roots and crown.
Formative pruning and regular treatment against pests and diseases will be needed for the first three years.
For the winter, the trunk circle must be mulched so that the young plant roots do not freeze through, and the trunk is protected special materials against damage by rodents.
It takes a lot of effort to grow a fruitful garden. Careful care fruit crops important at every stage of their development, and taking care of the garden begins with determining the optimal time for planting, buying healthy seedlings and correct preparation landing pit.
The matter is more complicated than it seems at first glance. Back in 1909 gardening instructor J. Pengerot in an article with the expressive title "In the fall or spring to plant trees?" put forward interesting arguments on this topic.
Wise thought
"The autumn planting works the better, the sooner it is possible to do it."Confused business
“There is no doubt that a newly planted tree is more sensitive to frost than an already rooted one, and therefore the preponderance to the side spring planting, not autumn.
Although the autumn planting cannot be considered impossible either ... The tree should be planted only at a time when it has stopped growing, when during the summer the shoots that have grown are fully strengthened and matured, that is, from September to October (the farther south, the earlier you can start transplant; for example, in the Saratov province, you can start at the end of August); in the spring, now, as the earth has thawed - until the buds begin to open. "
The information is correct, but it is not yet clear: autumn or spring? However, further the author tells about his experience "in the Baltic region and other northern provinces."
Autumn wins
“Having been gardening and tree-planting for over 25 years ... my stance was that I always gave preference to autumn planting, except for those cases when it was necessary to plant on extremely clayey, moist soil. If planting is carried out in early autumn, as already mentioned above, at a time when the tree, although it has stopped growing, but the sap movement in it has not finally stopped, then it will have time to give young roots before the onset of frost, as well as partly cuts of roots swim. Such a tree will winter well and next spring will grow quickly. The later the transplant is made, the less the tree has time to take root and is taken more slowly in the spring, and sometimes from severe frosts part dies. Have planted in autumn trees, it is necessary to cut the leaves so that they do not evaporate the stored moisture, since the perception of nutrients stops before the appearance of new roots.
True, in very cold areas and on damp cold soils, it should be planted in the spring, because during autumn planting, groundwater can adversely affect the roots of new plantings. In hot countries, even on wet soil, spring planting has its own bad sides: if it is not possible to resort to frequent watering, then from summer heat the soil soon dries up, and newly planted trees often die or are poorly accepted. "
Confirmation from the Volga region
“Autumn plantings, gardeners assured me, completely perish in the very first winter.
I didn’t believe it, and when, finally, in the fall of 1908, I had the opportunity to plant in two gardens ... For the final solution of the controversial issue, I planted in the fall. I planted 60 apple trees and 10 pears in each garden in the first half of September - at the end of October I wrapped them in dry weeds from below to the very tops in a thin layer, and - transferred to the power of winter. In one garden, the trees were all taken up, in the other - 2 apple trees and 2 pears perished ”.
In the summer, the author of the article visited neighboring lands, where seedlings from the same nursery were planted in the spring. The following picture appeared to his gaze: healthy look about 50% of apple trees and the same number of pears, about 10% of apple trees and 50% of pears died, and the rest of the apple trees are still between life and death, despite the fact that the spring was favorable. "
Based on materials from the magazine "Progressive gardening and horticulture"
* in the article we are talking only about seedlings with an open root system
Personal experience
Prepare the sleigh in summer
Frost on bare ground is a dream of many summer residents in their nightmares. Especially for those who can only visit their garden on weekends. And for those who, like me, managed to plant a lot of heat-loving plants - and even more so!
Since during my gardening I managed to “step on the same rake” more than once, meeting frost without snow with useless moaning and throwing Lately made it a rule to prepare for a possible cold snap in advance. I hope my experience will be useful to other summer residents.
Firstly, plants that will have to be covered for the winter are best prepared for this early, even if the aesthetics of the garden will suffer from this. For example, bend down and lightly sprinkle with earth large-leaved hydrangeas, lay the climbing frames and shrub roses until their branches were brittle from the cold. It will not hurt to throw non-woven fabric: in the absence of snow from frost, of course, it will not save, but it will help "soften the blow" with a sharp drop in temperature.
Secondly, it is imperative to mulch the trunks of thermophilic trees and shrubs. A layer of organic matter 10-15 cm thick will protect their roots from frost. For lovers of "sour", for example, rhododendrons, azaleas and magnolias, you can use peat, coniferous litter, sawdust. For others, compost, grass cuttings, fallen leaves. This can be done in September or October, without rushing and without making a rush on the eve of severe frosts. I also mulch the soil in perennial flower beds. In the event of a sharp cold snap, the wet earth literally "explodes", which often leads to damage to the root system. And a thick layer of mulch will save you from this trouble.
Thirdly, it is worth preparing a "strategic stock" of free covering material - fallen leaves. Oak are best suited, but in the absence of such, you can use any that is at hand. I usually cut out half an hour, scoop up the foliage under the nearby trees and collect it in large trash bags. In the event of a sudden cold snap, it is enough to cover the cut perennials with leaves - they will serve as insulation instead of snow.
S. A. Gulyaeva, Moscow region
" Trees
A transplant for a plant is a traumatic operation, which is best performed during the period of natural rest, then it takes place practically "under anesthesia." This is especially true for seedlings with bare roots.
Most fruit trees are best planted on permanent place after the completion of vegetation processes - in the fall. Roughly, this is a month before the freezing of the topsoil. Some trees are best planted in spring. Let's talk in more detail about the timing of planting seedlings of fruit trees, how to fertilize and properly care for them.
Determining that a tree is ready for replanting is easy. The main criterion is that the tree has dropped half of the leaves... They are guided when planting and apple trees, as well as all berry bushes.
The roots of bushes and trees do not have a dormant period, they continue to grow in winter. Optimum temperature for rooting +4 o C and above. Given that the ground does not freeze so quickly, root growth continues almost without a winter break.
Apple and pear varieties with insufficient frost resistance, as well as all stone fruits(cherry, sweet cherry, plum, apricot and peach), best planted in spring. Moreover, it is necessary to do this as early as possible - until the moisture has left and the buds have not blossomed.
In any case, planting pits are prepared in advance - for spring planting, for example, from autumn (August - September). The deadline for the preparation of pits is 2 weeks..
How to choose a seedling for planting in the Moscow region and other regions
In order not to throw money down the drain and grow a really productive fruit tree, the choice of a seedling should be approached with understanding and responsibly.
Choosing a seedling with an open root system
- Primarily, the variety must be zoned.
- To increase the likelihood of purchasing the desired variety, buy them in a specialized nursery, and not "from the hands" by the road.
- Roots must be no shorter than 25 centimeters fresh and undamaged. The more branched thin roots, the higher the probability of success.
- On the roots there should be no growths Is a symptom of root cancer. The root cut should be white.
- Carefully inspect the trunk for damage to the bark.
When buying a seedling with leaves, carefully cut them off - the seedling will not lose moisture.
Wrap the roots with damp burlap or newspaper in several layers. If the seedling is still dry, immerse it in water for a day or two until the bark regains a fresh look.
You can treat the roots with stimulants just before planting.(Kornevin or Heteroauxin) according to the instructions.
Take special care to ensure that the roots are not chafed. These areas are likely to rot - they must be carefully removed to the healthy part.
Choosing a seedling in a container
Such planting material more expensive. If you choose it correctly, you can plant it at any time convenient for you. The survival rate is guaranteed ...
How not to be mistaken
The easiest way to check how long a tree has been growing in a pot is to gently lift the plant by the root part. If earthen ball taken out together with the roots, you need to buy - the seedling "lives" in the container for a long time.
Additionally, it will help you make sure that you have made the right choice. root sprouted through a hole in the bottom of the container.
When choosing a container seedling, of the two - take the younger one. Its roots are most likely not trimmed before being planted in a pot for sale.
The tree is installed in a prepared planting hole without violating the integrity of the earth clod. Water and cover with prepared soil mixture without deepening the seedling.
Rules for planting a seedling in a garden plot at different times of the year?
The choice of a place for planting a fruit tree - it is made once and for all, success or disappointment depends on this choice. If the place turns out to be unsuitable for a fruit tree, after a few years it will be impossible to correct the error.
Choose for planting sunny place protected from wind... The close location of groundwater is unacceptable - a tree can successfully develop for 5-7 years, and when its roots reach the aquifer, it will die from decay. At this age, replanting a tree is already incredibly difficult.
Preparatory activities
Even the choice of soil is not so critical for planting a fruit tree. By improving the soil structure and correct feeding almost any plot is suitable for gardening.
Planting pit preparation
Even in the case of fertile black soil, it is necessary to start planting a tree with the preparation of the planting pit... It must be dug out at least a month before planting the seedling. During this time, the dug-up earth will have time to pack. This is a factor of extraordinary importance - there will be no problems with the correct deepening of the root collar of the seedling.
Where is the root collar?
It will not be superfluous to clarify what this "root collar" is. Often, inexperienced gardeners take the place of grafting by the root collar, and as a result, they deepen the seedling an extra 10 centimeters. Actually, this is the area where the trunk goes to the root... At this point, the dark color of the root passes into the lighter bark of the trunk.
The most common mistake is planting in a fresh hole. As a matter of fact, the point is not in the pit itself. Until the soil subsides, it is very difficult to properly deepen the root collar of the seedling. It is known that it can neither be buried nor exposed - the tree cannot develop normally in both cases.
After planting, the seedling should not lack nutrients, at least until it takes root. At this stage, very often with the best intentions, gardeners "overfeed" the seedlings with fertilizers.
It is especially dangerous for young plants to add fresh organic matter to the pit and too much mineral fertilizers... These two extremes act equally depressingly on soil microorganisms, namely, they help the roots of the seedling to assimilate nutrients from soil and air.
- For a conditioned seedling 1-2 years old, it is necessary dig a hole about 80x80 centimeters in size and the same depth. In the process of digging a hole, fold the upper, more fertile layer separately from the lower one. Remove all stones and roots of perennial weeds. The bottom of the hole must be dug onto the bayonet of the shovel.
- To the bottom of the pit to improve the water balance is desirable sprinkle last year's leaves, house debris, wood ash ... This will not only be good drainage, but also an excellent additional tree feeding.
- Into the pit add 2 buckets of compost or humus, and proceed as follows.
- One bucket is mixed with the more fertile soil of the upper layer and poured into the bottom of the pit. Place a seedling on this mound, spread its roots and pour the second part of the compost directly onto the roots. At the same time, shake the seedling so that there are no air voids that are not filled with soil.
- Watering well tons (at least 2 buckets of water).
- The pit is filled up to the top... For this, only the upper fertile layer is used.
- From the bottom layer of the earth form a root hole around the trunk circle.
- Water again into the formed hole and cover it with mulch(peat, rotten sawdust, foliage, wood chips), this will not only save water, but also prevent a dense crust from forming.
When planting, it is better to deepen the root collar insufficiently. This option is easy to fix by adding earth to the trunk circle.
Planting scheme for fruit trees and shrubs
The planting density of trees depends not only on the species, but also on:
- type of root stock of a seedling,
- method of further formation,
- features of the site layout.
The most common mistake novice gardeners make is planting too tight... It is very difficult to see trees at least 2.5 meters in height in twigs of one-year-old seedlings after 10 years. The recommended planting pattern for shrubs and trees is given below.
and pears on vigorous rootstocks are placed at a distance of 5 meters, medium-sized - 3.5-4 meters, dwarf - 2.5-3 meters... Columnar forms can be planted even after 0.5 meters in a row.
No less distance should be laid when planting seedlings near the house, especially this applies to tall forms of fruit, and especially pay attention to the location- over time it will be a 10-meter spreading tree.
To rationally use the area between the seedlings, plant currant bushes between the rows for now (after 10 years it will still have to be uprooted - the bush will grow old) or garden strawberries.
Caring for a newly planted tree in the spring-autumn period
After planting a young tree, in addition to feeding the seedling, it must be properly followed up. The first time after planting most of all the seedlings need watering. Among experienced gardeners the old school is of the opinion that seedlings need watering for 2 years, even if they have taken root successfully. You need to water even trees planted in autumn until the very frost... Only then will the tree grow strong and healthy.
No matter how great the desire to try the harvest from a young tree, the first flowers must be removed. This especially applies to the first year after planting, otherwise the tree will give all its strength to the first few fruits, and the root system and a developed crown will not be able to grow.
Except watering young tree requires preventive measures to protect against pests and fungal diseases. Do not ignore them during every garden treatment. The loss of branches and leaves from an invasion of pests or any disease can be critical for a young tree.
Preparing young trees for winter includes:
- mulching trunk circle,
- whitewashing of the trunk for the prevention of sun and frosty winter burns,
- rodent protection and hares.
The mulching layer must necessarily cover the near-trunk circle not only in summer period to retain moisture in the root zone. Mulch is especially necessary in the autumn-winter period. Even in conditions Middle lane and the Moscow region, the roots of a seedling of a tree or shrub may suffer from freezing, especially if the snow cover is insignificant.
Fertilizers and fertilizing for the fruit tree
A well-stocked planting pit provides nutrition for the planted tree for 2 years. In practice, it only needs watering.
Top dressing of the garden is carried out according to the well-established rule:
- in the spring- nitrogen and organic fertilizers,
- in the fall- potash and phosphorus.
Fertilization is usually carried out in near-stem circles in early spring (1) or autumn (2).
Fertilizers are applied to the root zone at the rate of 1 hectare of the garden:
- organic 300-500 kg (every 2-3 years),
- inorganic N: P: K in proportions of 1.5: 1: 0.6 (calculated per kg of chemically pure substance).
In addition to root dressing, gardeners often practice leaf dressing. In this case, the so-called "tank mixtures" are used - joint solutions chemicals, for example, against pests and a complex of foliar dressing.
Foliar dressing, in contrast to root dressing, has an effect almost instantly. They are absorbed through the surface of the leaves garden plant after 4 hours. This process is especially active at underside sheet.
Another "plus" of such processing- the consumption of fertilizers is minimal. For example, for nitrogen fertilizing, a solution of 1 tablespoon of nitrate per 1 bucket of water is prepared.
The only inconvenience is that you cannot process just before the rain.
Another important point, it is better to "underfeed" the garden with any fertilizers ...
Conclusion
The optimal time for planting fruit trees depends on many factors:
- On the climatic conditions of your region.
- From the winter hardiness of the seedling.
- From the type of seedling - container or "bare root".
In order not to get confused, Ukrainian gardeners have an old rule, which is all the more obligatory. for colder regions- all stone fruits are planted in spring, pome fruits - in autumn.
Autumn - optimal time planting seedlings with an open root system or with a bare root. Planting time without reference to climatic zones - from the moment the foliage falls naturally to the period of freezing of the soil. Having bought seedlings with foliage, immediately tear off all the leaves from it to reduce the loss of moisture through them and dry out the seedling itself.
What fruit trees are planted in spring
Trees with open system non-frost-resistant roots (these include some varieties of apples and pears, thermophilic apricots, peaches, and some varieties of plums and cherries) are better. It is better to prepare pits for spring planting in the fall. Then you will start planting seedlings immediately after the ground thaws, while the soil is saturated with moisture. The period of spring planting of trees ends with the appearance of the first leaves.
The basic rule of planting is that the earlier you plant, the easier the seedling adapts and the more likely it will take root well.
In conditions high humidity plant the tree on mounds, prepared ahead of time, in the fall. Their disembarkation is carried out unambiguously in the spring.
Planting dates for seedlings with a closed system and in containers
The planting dates for seedlings with an earthen clod (closed root system) are more extended. In spring, the planting period is extended until the onset of hot days, if planting is carried out in cloudy weather, and the crowns of seedlings with leaves are shaded by throwing on white gauze.
Seedlings with a closed root system need abundant watering within a month after planting.
In autumn, seedlings with a clod of earth can be planted as soon as the heat subsides, without waiting for the foliage to fall off. The seedlings will require watering and shading. Another option is to tear off the foliage on the tree. Planting dates in the fall last until the onset of frost.
The timing of planting seedlings in containers is from early spring to late autumn. On hot dry days, it is better to refrain from planting. The crowns of the planted fruit trees are shaded, the seedlings are watered regularly.