Standard roses in the photo
Large-flowered, multi-flowered, climbing, repeat-blooming shrub and miniature species are suitable for forming roses in standard form. Almost every group of roses has varieties suitable for growing on a standard.
The height of the stem can be different - from 80 cm for a large-flowered rose to 125 cm for a climbing rose. climbing roses form weeping standard forms. The crown and trunk of a standard rose are, respectively, a scion and a rootstock. The varietal scion is grafted onto the rootstock at least three times to create a beautiful and correct crown standard rose.
Standard roses in landscape design look very good in a small amateur garden; they create a pleasant romantic atmosphere.
All standard roses must be tied to stakes. As practice shows, it is not easy to plant and grow a standard rose, which is why they cost more than ordinary bush forms. Caring for standard roses must be skillful, including mandatory pruning and protection of the grafting site during the winter cold.
During cultivation, most standard roses are pruned like bush roses. Weeping standard roses are climbing varieties, grafted onto rose hips at a height of about 1.5 m. In the spring, old shoots are completely removed, and young shoots are shortened by a third. If this is not done, they will become too long and the bush will lose its shape.
When growing standard rose seedlings in the garden, the main thing is to get an even and strong rosehip standard! The higher it is, the better. It is not difficult to grow rose hips for rootstock if you know a number of features. Here they are: rose hips for sowing must be collected brown in mid-August, the seeds isolated from them and immediately sown in moist soil without stratification. In dry weather, crops are watered. In the spring, rosehip emerges and grows until autumn. From fully ripened rose hips, shoots will appear only in the second spring.
In the autumn, after leaf fall, rosehip seedlings are dug up, sorted, the largest ones are selected and planted according to a 150x20 cm pattern. Wide row spacing is done so that there is then enough land for hilling up the occultants for the winter.
Rose hips are grown for 4 years. All this time it is watered, loosened, sprayed against diseases and pests. In the 5th year from the root, it produces strong, even shoots of renewal, and then all the side branches are removed, except for one best shoot, which at the end of July, when it reaches 1.5-2 m, is pinched for lignification.
In mid-August, the rootstock is budded with different varieties, 4-5 buds each at a height of 120-150 cm. Each branch on the trunk is budded at the base. The bushes grown from these buds branch better and are not broken down as much by summer winds as those that grew from buds grafted onto the trunk itself.
Good seedlings with a weeping form are obtained from polyanthus and groundcover roses with thin, flexible shoots that reach down to the ground. They are very disease resistant and winter well.
After the leaves on the rose hips fall in the fall, the oculant trunks are tilted along the row, tying them at the soil surface to the bases of other trunks, and covered with soil from the inter-row spaces.
In the spring, the plants are opened and tied to installed supports made of two wires along the row, as in a vineyard. The rosehip is pruned at the bud, and by autumn well-developed seedlings grow.
In total, it takes 7 years to grow a rose in standard form, starting from rosehip seeds. On permanent place such roses are planted at a distance of 120 cm from each other, and weeping forms - 180 cm.
It is good to use bamboo stakes for support; they are durable and beautiful.
When planting standard roses, keep in mind that for the winter they will have to be tilted to the ground and covered; provide a place for this.
The soil around the boles must be mulched with humus, chopped straw or sawdust to retain moisture, because uncovered soil dries out quickly. Water and loosen the soil under standard roses more often than under ordinary ones. spray roses. It is necessary to water without allowing water to get on the leaves, that is, not by sprinkling, but by pouring it into the hole of the trunk circle. Drops of moisture on the leaves, especially in the second half of summer, contribute to the intensive development of fungal diseases.
Watch the video on how to grow a standard rose to better understand how such a plant is formed:
How to grow a rose on a trunk: fertilizers and fertilizing
Standard roses are fertilized annually, and more than once. In the spring, after pruning, mineral fertilizers with a predominance of nitrogen along with humus are applied to the soil. Humus leaf soil is taken from old forest belts, removing upper layer up to 10 cm thick. This is an excellent soil for other cultivated plants; it is formed from rotted leaves and branches of woody plants.
As you can see in the photo, when caring for standard roses, soil fertilizer mixtures are used, which are purchased in specialized stores; the doses of their use are indicated on the packages:
In the process of caring for standard roses, it is better to time fertilizing to coincide with the phases of rose development:
- after the first flowering;
- after the second flowering (complex mineral fertilizers alternate with mullein infusion);
- after the third flowering in late summer - early autumn (potassium phosphorus fertilizers are good).
During the summer it is necessary foliar feeding solutions of Kemira Lux, Mortar, potassium humate alternately. “Solution” and “Kemira Lux” contain nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, magnesium and trace elements: boron, copper, iron, manganese, molybdenum, zinc. These substances not only provide good growth and the development of standard roses, but also partially protect them from diseases.
One of the features of growing standard forms of roses is the need for regular spraying. Do this in the morning after the dew has dried or in the evening with a solution at a concentration of 1 g per 1 liter of water. These fertilizers can also be used to treat ordinary bush roses.
Standard roses in garden design will decorate any area. With drooping flowering shoots, they look great against a green lawn or blue sky, or in combination with low bush or ground cover roses planted between them.
Standard roses with dark-colored flowers are best planted between white, yellow and light pink varieties. Cream or white roses are planted with orange varieties. It is better to place two- to four-color stems separately.
Rose variety "Gloria Day" in the photo
The old but eternal variety “Gloria Day” looks very impressive at altitude.
On a stem 90 cm high, its flowers are located at the level of the spectators' faces. A similar variety has not been bred before and is unlikely to be bred after. On bollards, its large flowers look even more graceful than on bush roses.
Until recently, there was no unified classification of standard roses used in landscape design. Now the world standard has been adopted: low-standard - 60 cm, medium-standard - 90 cm and high-standard - 140 cm. Miniature roses are grafted onto 60 cm high standard, 90 cm - hybrid tea and polyanthus, and tall (140 cm) - climbing cascade forms.
Single-color plantings of standard roses are boring; there are long breaks in flowering. It is better to plant trunks on which several varieties are grafted: the upper ones are ordinary bush varieties, the lower ones are weeping forms. After planting, for better survival, the trunks are whitewashed; they do not overheat in the sun and are less affected by diseases.
Look how impressive standard roses look in landscape design in these photos:
Below are the most beautiful varieties standard roses grown in the middle zone.
Standard roses "Iceberg" in the photo 
Flowers are pure white, double (photo)
"Iceberg", or "Schneewithchen"- floribunda rose with pinkish buds and pure white double (30-40 petals) flowers up to 7 cm in diameter. Flowering is very abundant. The leaves are green, very shiny. The bush is vigorous, up to 1 m high.
Standard roses "Ingrid Bergman" in the photo 
Dark red flowers of medium size (photo)
"Ingrid Bergman"- hybrid tea rose with medium-sized (35 petals) dark red flowers. In culture since 1985. The flowers are fragrant and bloom abundantly. The leaves are dark green, very shiny. The advantages of this one the best varieties roses on a trunk - winter hardiness and high stability to diseases.
Standard roses “Cardinal de Richelieu” in the photo 
Double flowers, medium size, dark purple (photo)
"Cardinal de Richelieu"- a rose from the shrub group. The flowers are double, medium-sized, dark purple in color, fragrant, collected in racemes. Flowering continues for a month. The dark green leathery leaves are numerous, the shoots are almost thornless. The bush is compact, up to 1.2 m high. The advantages of the variety are winter hardiness and high resistance to diseases.
Standard roses "Lili Marlene" in the photo 
The flowers are dark red, medium size (photo)
"Lily Marlene"- the buds of this hybrid tea rose are almost black, the blooming flowers are dark red, medium in size, and have 25 petals. The aroma is weak. The leaves are shiny, green with a bronze tint. The bush is vigorous, up to 80 cm high. The advantages include the resistance of flowers to rain and sun, the disadvantages are weak resistance to disease.
Standard roses "Lions-Rosa" in the photo
"Lions-Rosa"- floribunda rose with large cupped, very double flowers. The color of the petals is creamy white, with a yellow-apricot center.
Pay attention to the photo - this variety of standard roses has flowers collected in inflorescences of 3-5 pieces:
Flowering is abundant and long lasting. Possesses pleasant aroma. The foliage is green and dense. The bushes are medium-sized. The advantage of the variety is its high frost resistance.
Standard roses "Lubecker Rotspon" in the photo 
Floribunda rose with wine-red, goblet-shaped flowers (photo)
"Lubecker Rotspon"- floribunda rose with wine-red, goblet-shaped flowers. Flowers are collected in large inflorescences. Blooms very profusely until frost. The leaves are dark green and shiny. Bush up to 60 cm high, shoots straight.
The best varieties of roses for standard trees in landscape design
Standard roses "Pascal" in the photo 
Hybrid tea rose with creamy white medium-sized flowers (photo)
"Pascals"- hybrid tea rose with creamy-white, medium-double (35 petals), not very large flowers. The aroma is weak. The leaves are green, very shiny. The bush is vigorous, 110 cm high, the shoots are straight. The advantages of the variety are winter hardiness and resistance to rain.
Since time immemorial, skilled craftsmen have learned to give some ornamental shrubs the appearance of a small tree. Such man-made forms are called standard ones. They were in particular fashion during the heyday of regular styles, and today they are returning to us as a popular detail in a small garden. Roses have always occupied a special place in the assortment of plants grown on the trunk. Combining them with low bush varieties or other plants allows you to very effectively (in 2-3 tiers) form the space of a flower garden. In our country it is difficult to name a specialist who would know more and better about standard roses than a candidate of biological sciences, an outstanding scientist and practitioner Nikolai Leonidovich MIKHAILOV.
GROWING ROOTS
The main agrotechnical difficulty is to grow standard rootstock of the proper height and quality from rosehip seedlings. This requires 3-4 years, that is, significantly more than for bush roses. Costs rise accordingly. That's why standard roses always cost more. To create a trunk, one of the long shoots of rose hips (1.5-2 m) is usually used, which is left on the bush, all other branches are cut out. A varietal rose is then grafted into this stem at a height of 1-1.5 m, from the shoots of which a flowering crown is formed.
For small scale cultivation and private floriculture, the simplest and quick way- prepare trunks among perennial rosehip thickets (for example, in a hedge) or use the rootstock after the death of grafted roses. They dig up bushes on which long young shoots are found,
extending from the very foundation. The bark should still be thin and not roughened, which makes grafting easy.
It is more advisable to do the digging in the fall. In this case, it is necessary, if possible, to preserve branched, fibrous roots. Immediately, in addition to the shoot intended for the trunk, all skeletal branches on the bush are cut out to the very base. The work is carried out with a garden saw or large pruning shears, protecting the future stem from injury. If there are side stems on it, they are cut off, leaving 10-20 cm each. The root system is shortened to 20-30 cm. Until spring, the prepared trunk is pinned in a protected place. It should be high enough (without stagnation of autumn and spring waters) and closed from the winds so that the snow does not blow away in winter. They are pinned into trapezoidal trenches (depth 20-30 cm, angle 45°), so that not only the root system, but also the lower part of the trunks is in the ground. The stems are in a horizontal position above the ground. Although the rootstock is generally cold-resistant, young (annual) shoots are still not mature enough and should be covered with spruce branches from winter frosts and from spring sunburn. It is also necessary to provide protection from mice.
In nurseries, high-quality and durable rosehip stems are grown specifically from seeds. The importance of the rootstock in standard culture increases. The rose hip must be vigorous, winter-hardy, disease-resistant, with a powerful, low-growth root system limited by thorniness. Mandatory qualities are good fusion with the scion and subsequent development of varietal shoots.
We obtained a large yield of long, even and flexible trunks from seedlings of specially shaped canina roses (Rosa canina): selection of GBS (N-22, No. 4 and No. 5), and foreign (Pfendera, Schmids Stambildner). In a plot of selected rose hips, by the autumn of the 3rd year, up to 80% of suitable trunks with a height of over 1.5 m are obtained, and when using seeds from continuous collection, the yield of high-quality rootstocks is lower. Vigorous forms of the river. rugosa (R. rugosa) are also suitable for these purposes, but the scions will be less durable. Unsuitable for growing river trunks. rubiginosis (R. rubiginosa, R. eglanteria) and R. cinnamon (R. cinnamomea), having moderate growth, densely thorny shoots with loose wood and a large amount of shoots.
Among the rosehip seedlings on the seed beds, the strongest ones with a root collar diameter of 8-10 mm or more are selected. In autumn or early spring they are planted in a specially prepared and fertilized area. Planting is row (1x0.3 m) or three-line (1 m between stripes, 0.4x0.3 m in strips). This density causes some thickening in the 3rd year of cultivation, which is necessary for the development of long annual shoots that go to the standard.
With normal care (feeding, watering), a planted rosehip grows without pruning for 2-3 years until it sends out long shoots 1.5-2 m long. Some believe that by heavily pruning the entire above-ground part of the stump in the spring of the 3rd year, you can call active growth new replacement shoots. This is not entirely true. With such pruning, new shoots begin to vigorously grow from dormant buds at the base of the bush. However, by mid-summer, their growth is delayed and increased branching begins, restoring the mass of the removed leaf surface and compensating for the lack of air nutrition of the plants. Even with regular pinching of the side stems, the growth of the apical bud will slow down, and the quality of the resulting stem will be low. On rootstocks that have not been heavily pruned, such replacement shoots grow throughout the season only due to the apical growth point, but without lateral branching.
However, you should not completely abandon pruning and pinching. So, in the spring of the 3rd year, when a massive appearance of long shoots is expected, partial pruning is carried out. In this case, only last year’s unbranched shoots that grew from the base of the bush are removed to the ground, while the branched branches of previous years remain. Thus, competing shoots are removed, and the remaining assimilation apparatus ensures the intensive growth of 1-8 new stems from the base of the bush. If you leave 1-2 of the strongest ones (to be safe), then by August they will reach a height of 2 m. Now the tops should be pinched, ensuring better ripening of the shoots.
During mass production cultivation, mechanical continuous excavation of the entire plantation is used; in small farms and amateur gardens, non-standard rose hips can be left for another year for growing.
Immediately after digging up the rootstocks, one of the best shoots is selected on each bush (long, even, flexible, well-ripened, extending from the root collar); all the rest are cut with pruning shears or a garden saw to the ground. The cuts are cleaned with a knife. Underground part do not prune too much (only broken, damaged or too long roots). Carefully protect the abandoned shoots from cuts and damage from thorns. The best quality of the trunk is achieved on younger bushes, where fewer excess shoots are removed and fewer cuts are made at the root collar. The processed rootstocks are sorted according to the height of the trunk into three categories; the longest (from 2 m or more); average (1.5-2); half-standards (0.5-1.0 m).
It is safer to plant rootstocks on the budding site next spring. The distance in the row is 0.5 m, in the row spacing 1 m. In advance, the root system is dipped into a mash of clay solution with the addition of mullein. You can also add a tablet of pre-dissolved heteroauxin here.
When planting in autumn, the trunks should be bent to the ground for the winter and covered with spruce branches. It is necessary to take into account which direction the trunks are tilted. The bend of the trunk at the root collar should be on the opposite side, otherwise the shoot can be broken off at the place where it grows. It is more convenient to lay the trunks along the row.
Rootstocks are planted vertically. The roots, without bending, are evenly distributed in a hole filled with fertilizer. The planting depth is such that the root collar and the beginning of the trunk are in the ground. When backfilling, the soil is thoroughly compacted with feet and watered abundantly. In the 1st year, the rootstock does not require support. During the summer it is looked after (loosened, weeded, watered, fed).
After rooting, buds will begin to sprout along the entire length of the stem and side shoots will form. Immediately provision should be made for the establishment of the crown of the rootstock. It is desirable that it be placed above the future grafting site, i.e. on high trunks - not lower than 1.5 m, on medium ones - 1.2, on low ones - from 0.8 m. Above the indicated place, lateral shoots are allowed to develop freely. The rosehip crown should be formed from 3-5 lateral shoots. If you leave 1-2, then they will not be able to provide abundant sap flow during subsequent grafting.
Below the crown along the trunk, the lateral sprouts break out when they appear. At the beginning of growth, when they have not yet become strong, they are easy to break off with the pressure of a finger. If the stems have become stronger, they will have to be cut with a knife or pruning shears, causing wounds to the trunk. A shoot appears at the base of the trunk, which is systematically cut out or pulled out at the very base throughout the growing season.
On individual plots, rose hips can be grown in a one- or two-row protective strip. Annual seedlings are planted in rows at a distance of 0.3 m from each other. For the same purposes, rose hips are also used, on which grafting into the root collar (“overgrown”) has failed.
In the garden, the standard rootstock can be planted immediately in a permanent place in the fall in the form of a tapeworm (single) or an alley along the path. The distance in the row is about 2 m, and the distance from the edge of the path is at least 0.5 m.
VACCINATION ON STAMP
The most common method of vaccination varietal roses on standard rootstock - traditional budding in a T-shaped cut. The bud (eye) with the shield is cut off with or without a small part of the wood. Our many years of experience have shown that eyes with wood removed from the shield take root better. Budding in the butt under the tongue is also used, which can be done even with weak sap flow.
The success of the operation largely depends on skill. Experienced ophthalmologists have their own proven techniques. Some cut the bud from above, others from below, inserting the shield into the cut on the rootstock with a knife. It is easier to graft a standard rootstock than a bush rootstock, it is easier to choose the place of budding, and there is no contact with the soil. Therefore, the survival rate is higher. If the vaccination is unsuccessful, it can be repeated. The peculiarity is that sap flow in the upper part of the rosehip shoot ends earlier than in the root collar. AND optimal timing standard grafting under Moscow conditions: end of July - first ten days of August, that is, the beginning of the budding campaign.
A week before budding, if the weather is dry, the rose hips should be watered generously. For reliability and uniform development of the crown, two grafts are made on the trunk - on opposite sides of the trunk, one 3-5 cm higher than the other. There is no need to bud 3 eyes on one trunk and no more.
The height of the graft depends on the size of the rootstock and scion. Low-growing varieties with a small crown look unattractive on a tall stem and vice versa. Climbing and Semi-climbing varieties are grafted onto high boles at a height of 1.4-1.5 m. For medium boles, Hybrid Tea, Flory-bunda, and Remontant varieties are suitable; grafting at a height of 1-1.2 m (their crown will later be exactly at eye level - 1.5-1.8 m). Low trunks are grafted with low-growing varieties at a height of 0.6-0.8 m.
Usually one variety is budded per standard. In principle, you can take several different colors, but it is important to carefully select scions of the same growth vigor and habit. Otherwise, one of the vaccinations will grow stronger and inhibit the others.
Cuttings with eyes are prepared on the eve of budding. To do this, select faded shoots with mature wood and well-formed, but not sprouted buds. Of course, it is better to use fresh cuttings, but it is permissible to store them for up to a month, wrapped in damp cloth and film, in the lower section of the refrigerator. The best eyes for budding are taken from the middle part of the shoot. Sprouted ones also come into play if they are first cut or the sprout is broken off. Two spare buds at the base of the sprouted one will ensure further normal development of the oculant.
In the nursery, the buddings are tied with polyethylene or polyvinyl chloride tape. Insulating plastic is also suitable, which is cut and rolled into strips 0.5-0.8 cm wide. Such tapes are first applied to the graft with the non-sticky side, and at the end of the operation they are turned over and glued. In the past, sponge, raffia, and even cut narrow strips of bandage were widely used. In any case, the harness is applied tightly. Many people prefer to leave the eye open, but there are also supporters of continuous tying.
The results of vaccination survival are checked through 2 weeks (revision of oculants). A green, swollen bud and an easily falling off leaf petiole confirm successful fusion. If the eye turns black, it dies. Then, if there is sap flow, you can immediately re-graft below the stem. However, if the cortex is weakly separated, the operation is postponed until spring (in Moscow, early May).
When tying with film, there is no reason to be afraid of constrictions. However, a month after vaccination it is recommended to remove it for better development peephole The grafted buds that have begun to grow in the fall are pinched.
COVERING STANDARD OCULANTS FOR WINTER
In the second half of October, rosehip shoots are severely pruned above the grafting site. The first autumn frosts down to minus 6-8° are not only not dangerous, but also beneficial. However, it is impossible to leave the trunks in a vertical position for the winter, even if the grafted buds are covered. It is warmer near the ground, and fallen snow is the most reliable shelter, so the trunks are bent. This is done like this.
Around the base, the soil is dug up half a bayonet, freeing the neck and the beginning of the roots. Having taken the standard, it is pulled towards the slope, providing the main bend due to the roots. In order not to damage the grafting site, it is covered from below (on the ground) and from above with small branches of spruce branches or planks and covered with a layer of 15-20 cm of earth.
When planting standard oculants in rows, such hilling is made into a continuous mound. The soil is taken from the row spacing, where a groove is formed for drainage melt water. The soil oversaturated with moisture and the resulting soaking are no less dangerous for the grafted buds than frost.
FIRST YEAR OF GROWING GEAR
In the spring, as soon as the soil thaws and dries slightly, the oculants are unfurled and raised above the ground. Somewhat later, when the buds in the remaining crown of the rootstock have sprouted, the trunks are installed vertically. To do this, first tear off the root collar and restore the previous position of the plants.
After checking the safety of the budding, use pruning shears to trim the rootstock approximately 1 cm above the grafted bud. The cut is cleaned with a garden knife and always covered with garden putty (petrolatum). No thorn should be left; it will only delay the healing of the wound. Pinching of a growing cultural shoot begins above the 3-5th leaf or when a bud appears. This is done many times until a branched crown is formed. The first flowering is allowed around the end of July-August.
Wild growth appearing on the trunk and from the root collar is systematically removed. The fertilizing system is coordinated with soil analysis. It is desirable to have a slightly acidic reaction (pH 5.5-6.5). Optimal nutrient content per 100 g of air-dry soil, mg: N - 10-30, P2O5 - 60-80, CaO - 150, K2O - 85-150, MgO - 20-25. During the growing season, it is permissible to apply 300 g per 1 m2 mineral fertilizers, dividing them into approximately 6-9 servings with an interval of 10 days (one time 30-50 g/m2). In the inter-rows or in the tree-trunk holes, first of all, nitrogen is introduced in early spring. ammonium nitrate(40 g/m2) or complete fertilizer (nitroammofoska) and re-mesh the soil. Potassium fertilizers are best used in the form of potassium nitrate or potassium sulfate. It is advisable to add a set of microelements at least once. However, when using mineral fertilizers, one should not forget that roses are low-salt-tolerant plants. The content of water-soluble salts in light soils should not exceed 0.15%, in heavy soils - 0.25%. Therefore, rose growers prefer to use organic matter.
Humus, manure, peat, and peat compost are used as mulch. Good action dry blood (albumin), fresh mullein (1:8) or chicken droppings (1:20) are used as liquid supplements. Dry soil is pre-watered. Approximately half a bucket of liquid is added to the tree trunk hole at a time. organic feeding. After absorption, the soil is leveled and loosened. Organic matter can be combined with mineral fertilizers, adding them to diluted mullein or albumin. Fertilizing alternates with watering, which should be plentiful (at least 10 liters per trunk). From August you should stop adding nitrogen. Potassium-phosphorus fertilizers applied in August-September promote the ripening of shoots.
Sprinkling is desirable in spring and early summer. From June, in order to avoid the development of fungal diseases, it is recommended to water only in the tree trunk holes.
Until mid-summer, standard oculants do not need support. On the contrary, rigid fixation of the stem (stakes, trellis) leads to the breaking off of young, not yet sufficiently fused grafts by strong gusts of wind. The trunks are tied to a support only in mid-summer, when they begin to bend under the weight of a well-developed and strengthened crown. Using a garter attached to a stake in two places, you can straighten bent stems.
By autumn, the farm receives annual standard roses (age is counted from the time of grafting). But it took 5-6 years to grow these plants along with the rootstock (1-2 years less in southern nurseries).
Using a greenhouse for winter grafting allows you to speed up the production of standard roses. A possible option is spring grafting soon after planting the rootstock. In this case, it is better to graft with a cutting with one bud - a wedge behind the bark. It is necessary to coat the cut of the hemp and then cover the graft with a plastic bag. It is removed after 15-30 days, when the cultural shoot begins to develop.
In private gardens, the propagation of standard roses can be accelerated. To do this, the longest annual rosehip shoots are budded on site. In the fall, the bushes are dug up, trimmed to a standard, and planted for growing in the spring. However, grafting a growing rosehip shoot requires great care. You should bud no higher than 0.5 m from the top, where the stem is thicker than a pencil and is slightly woody. PLANTING ANNUAL ROSES IN A PERMANENT PLACE
The most reliable time to plant standard roses in gardens middle zone- early spring. In Moscow, this is the end of April - beginning of May. First, the crown is subjected to short pruning: 3-6 of the strongest shoots are left, diverging in different directions. All others (thin, branched, broken, damaged) are removed completely. The remaining shoots are shortened to 10-15 cm (2-3 buds each). The cuts are covered with garden varnish.
The root system is trimmed and dipped in a creamy mixture of clay and mullein. An evenly painted wooden stake is hammered into the center of the pit in advance, the height of which must strictly correspond to the standard. If the planting is alley, then the line is aligned using the stakes placed. You can use a metal rod, fiberglass tubes, etc. as a support.
When planting, take into account the slope of the standard rose for winter shelter (the bend of the standard at the root collar). Usually the stake is placed with reverse side tilt directions. Immediately after planting, the stem is tied to a support in two places. The upper garter should be located just below the grafting site. To prevent the crown from drying out in the wind and bright sun, it is covered with moistened moss or cotton wool and covered entirely (in the form of a bag) with thick paper or parchment. The standard rose should remain in this state for 1-2 weeks until the buds begin to grow.
CARE AND Pruning
It is better to remove the cover in the evening or in cloudy weather. It is unnecessary to tie the trunk with straw or other material to prevent it from drying out. In the first year after planting, the emerging buds are plucked out, creating conditions for the development of new strong shoots. In subsequent years, pinching of the first buds is carried out on roses that have been weakened by an unsuccessful overwintering or are growing poorly. They also resort to this when they want to shift flowering to a more late date. Removing all buds that have reached the size of a pea will delay flowering by about a month, but 1.5-2 times more flowers will develop.
Faded heads are regularly removed along with the ovary. This maintains the neat appearance of the roses and does not waste plastic substances on setting seeds. When cutting for a bouquet or cuttings, you must leave 2-3 bottom sheets for the subsequent growth of new stems. Pruning should be done by thickening shoots in the middle part of the crown.
At the end of the first flowering, summer crown formation is carried out. The ends of the shoots are shortened to a five-leaf leaf, where strong buds begin to grow. Weak, non-flowering, thickening stems are cut out from the middle of the crown.
From the end of August, they try to delay the growth of shoots, limit the germination of buds and ensure the ripening of wood. To do this, water less frequently, apply only potassium and phosphorus fertilizers, and reduce cutting. Only the petals are removed from faded heads, since the set seeds delay the awakening of the underlying buds. Pinch off vigorously growing shoots of Climbing and other roses.
In Moscow conditions, Hybrid Tea and other remontant roses usually bloom twice, and in favorable years With a warm, dry autumn, the third season of flowering sometimes occurs. Standard roses have advantages here compared to bush roses. The crowns raised above the ground are in better conditions illumination and ventilation, are provided with a more powerful root system. As a result, the development cycle proceeds faster and more fully. Plants bloom earlier, shoots ripen better and are less affected by powdery mildew and black leaf spot.
SHELTER IN THE GARDEN
Work begins in the second half of October, when the first frosts have passed. Before the soil freezes, standard roses are bent to the ground. First, the immature ends of the shoots are shortened and the leaves, especially the affected ones, are removed. In dry weather, roses are sprayed against the wintering stages of diseases and pests with fungicides and insecticides. Poisoned mouse baits are laid out or repellent compounds are used.
The most convenient insulation material is spruce spruce branches. It is loose, does not rot and does not retain moisture. Also applies various papers, cardboard, earth, etc. On garden plots Any by-product will do: raspberry trimmings, nightshade tops, wood leaves, planks. Cover only the crown. Several branches of spruce branches are placed under it on the surface of the ground to prevent contact with damp soil. The top and sides of the crown are also covered with spruce branches or other aforementioned material in the form of a hut. The process is completed with a piece of plastic film or roofing material that protects against external moisture. The shelter is carried out in dry weather; the insulating material must also be dry.
AFTER WINTER
In March-April, in warm weather, it is advisable to ventilate the roses. Lift the film and compacted insulating material to give access fresh air and remove excess dampness, and then everything is returned to its place. Remove the cover gradually. First, only the film is removed, and the spruce branches are left until the soil completely thaws.
Well-wintered roses have bright green shoots. The presence of brown, dark branches indicates their death (sometimes only the ends are damaged). Dull green or brownish-green shoots are partially frozen. Crowns damaged by frost should be immediately cut back to healthy wood or even to the grafting site. The remaining part must be covered with moist soil to awaken the buds.
After about a week, when the buds noticeably bend, the standard rose is lifted and placed vertically. To do this, dig out the base of the root system, straighten the stem and return the soil to its place. Successfully overwintered specimens are straightened without hilling the crown.
In spring, black spots and rings can sometimes be found on green shoots. It is necessary to immediately carefully cut out the affected areas to healthy wood. If the darkening has reached the base of the graft, then cut out the entire damaged part with a knife and cover the sections with garden putty.
Dark spots often appear not from overheating, but as a result of shoot cancer, which manifests itself in early spring, still under cover. A reddish edging is sometimes noticeable along the edges of the spots. Later, small tubercles appear in the center of the spot, which crack, and spores of the shoot cancer pathogen scatter from them. Effective measures There is no fight against the disease, so prevention is necessary. By removing the affected parts, we prevent the spread of pathogenic spores. Shoot cancer can appear until June, so you should constantly cut out the affected shoots and disinfect the sections. Diseased branches are removed from the site and burned. Shoot cancer and infectious burn cause great damage to Climbing, Hybrid Tea and other groups of roses. The standard form, in which the grafting site is open to flying spores, is more susceptible to these diseases. Sometimes even the stems of rosehip rootstock are affected at a young age. In early spring, after removing the cover, roses are sprayed on dormant buds with fungicides against diseases.
SPRING Pruning
Standard roses are pruned according to the same principle as bush roses - immediately after removing the cover, according to dormant or slightly bent buds. The purpose of the operation is to remove everything unnecessary from the crown, give it a beautiful shape, and ensure abundant, full flowering.
Rose growers distinguish between short and long pruning. At short- leave shoots 5-15 cm long (with 2-4 buds). It is used on Hybrid Tea, Floribunda, Poliantaceae, Miniature varieties that bloom on shoots current year. At long pruning they retain almost the entire length, only slightly, by 10-15 cm, shortening the ends. It is practiced for climbing and park roses blooming on last year’s shoots.
Pruning is carried out with pruning shears using a garden saw and knife. First, all dead, damaged and broken branches are cut out of the crown, then thin and thickening ones are removed. On each trunk, 3-6 of the strongest and youngest shoots are left, preferably unbranched and extending in different directions. Sometimes, due to damage and poor wintering, it is necessary to do the shortest pruning, but this should not be feared.
It is also necessary, especially on old trunks, to carefully cut out all dead stumps at the base of the crown using a saw and knife. The sections are covered with garden putty. Dead parts should not accumulate in the crown; the longevity of the plant depends on this. If agricultural practices are followed, the life expectancy of standard roses is 10 years or more.
The cuts should be straight, approximately 0.5 cm above the selected bud. The bud at the top of the cut will develop the most strongly. Therefore, for the formation of the crown, it is important in which direction it is oriented. Usually they prefer an eye pointing outward, and only varieties with very spreading crowns are pruned above a bud that “looks” inside the bush.
THE MOST POPULAR VARIETIES FOR STANDARD CROPS
Hybrid teas (HT):"Madame Delbar" ("M-te Delbard")- velvety red; "American Pride" ("American Pride") - Dark red; "Dame de Coeur" ("Dame de Coeur") - cherry red; "Angelique" ("Angelique") - salmon orange; "Dolce Bita" ("Dolce Vita") - salmon pink; "Promise" ("Promise") - silver pink; "First Lady" ("First Lady")-pink; "Athena" ("Athena") - pure white; "White Christmas" ("White Christmas") - creamy white; "Gloria Dei" ("Gloria Dei" syn. "Peace") - yellow with pink tinge, "Landora" ("Landora") - yellow; "Susan" - ("Susan" syn. "Susan Massu") - yellow with salmon pink; "Folklore" ("Folklore") - orange-pink with yellow; "Mainzer Fastnacht" ("MainzerFastnacht", syn. "Blue Moon") - lilac.
Grandiflora(Gr.): "Queen Elizabeth" ("The Queen Elizabeth") - pure pink, Sonya ("Sonia") - soft salmon pink.
Floribunda(F.): "Iceberg" ("Iceberg" syn. "Schneewittchen") - pure white, "Marina" ("Marina") - orange-red with yellow; "Centener de Lourdes" ("Centenaire de Louraes") - light pink.
Petite(R.): "Dorothy Perkins" ("Dorothy Perkins 1) - hot pink, "White Flight" ("White Flight") - white, "Excelsa" ("Excelsa") - red.
Pettiaceae Large-flowered(LCL): "New Dawn" ("New Dawn") - soft pink, "Cute" ("Sympathie") - dark red, "Schwanensee" ("Schwanensee" syn. "Swan Lake"]- white with pink center.
Miniature(Min.): "Hummingbird" ("Colibri") - orange-yellow, "Little Buckaroo" ("Little Buckaroo") - bright red with a white center.
N. Mikhailov, Candidate of Biological Sciences, Moscow “All about roses on a standard” // “Floriculture” - 2002 - No. 4,5,6.
Each bush, tree or vine has its own crown shape. Man has learned to change the eternal appearance of plants. Back in Ancient Rome, a kind of plant architecture was born - topiary. One of the first topiary works landscape design appeared in the villa of the famous Pliny the Younger, where his name was written using trimmed boxwood.
The gardens of Rome were famous for their wonderful compositions of different types of trees, bright colors, rose gardens, powerful fountains, elegant gazebos and sculptures. And of course, topiary art. The owners of the gardens were proud of their evergreens, trimmed to resemble balls, cubes or pyramids. Ships and bizarre figures of animals were “sculpted” from plants.
Plant plasticity is multifaceted, and here we will talk about a unique topiary technique, when the shrub is given the appearance of a tree - a small stem with a crown at the top. Plants formed in this way are usually called standard plants. Many trunks are grown in pots or tubs. In the warm season they are put out in the garden, and for the winter they are moved indoors. They were in great fashion at the end of the 18th and 19th centuries in France and England, and are even reflected in fiction.
“At the entrance to the garden there grew a large rose bush - the roses on it were white, but three gardeners stood nearby and diligently painted them red” - this is how one of the chapters of “Alice’s Adventures in Wonderland” by L. Carroll begins, translated by N. Demurova . In the English original of the book it is written as standard rose, that is, a standard rose.
In gardens, roses on a standard are still rare. It's a pity - they resemble graceful bouquets on a long stem. In addition, rose trees bloom profusely and for a long time, winter better and suffer less from diseases than ordinary bush ones. In other words, the advantages are obvious.
Growing a standard rose is not so difficult
These are a little boring, but useful tips. First of all, you should take care of the rootstock for grafting the rose. Rose hips are suitable as such, but not any, but only those that are resistant to frost, pests and diseases, with a strong root system and tall, flexible shoots from the base of the bush. On three-year-old bushes they grow up to 1.5-2 m.
Usually a rose hip called Rosa canina is used for the rootstock. Its fruits resemble acorns. They begin to be collected as soon as they turn brown - the seeds are already ripe, and the shell has not yet had time to harden. Gutted seeds are immediately covered with sand or peat in a ratio of one to two and stored in the basement, stirring at least once a week and moistening as needed.
Sow seeds in October or November in moist soil. You can do this in early spring. Sow into loose soil to a depth of 7 cm. heavy soils the depth is less - 2-3 cm. After the emergence of seedlings, the thickened crops are thinned out.
In autumn or early spring next year From annual rosehip seedlings, select the strongest ones with a root collar diameter of 8-10 mm. Dig up, shorten the roots to 15 cm, and the above-ground part to 8-10 cm and plant again 30 cm apart and about a meter between the rows. Such planting will help the growth of annual shoots, which are then used as a standard and will become future stems.
A one-year shoot that grows from a dormant bud at the base of the bush for 2-3 years is suitable for a trunk. Choose the tallest and straightest one, cut off the rest at the root collar. If you want to get several standard roses different heights, then it is worth remembering that on low trunks the crown is usually formed at a height of 0.8 m, on medium ones - 1.2 m, on high ones - from 1.5 m.
If you have one shoot, measure its height and act in accordance with this recommendation. Take cuttings from varietal rose bushes that you like the day before grafting. To prevent the buds from drying out, wrap the cuttings in a wet cloth or film. However, it is worth keeping in mind that cuttings can be stored in the refrigerator for about a month.
Rose grafting
The usual method of grafting is the so-called budding, or bud-eye grafting. For reliability and better development, you need to make two grafts on opposite sides of the stem, one 3-4 cm higher than the other.
The standard is usually grafted with one variety of roses, but you can take several varieties with flowers of different colors. A week before the operation, if the weather is dry, the rose hips should be watered abundantly.
In two weeks the results will be visible. A green, swollen bud and an easily falling leaf petiole indicate that everything is going well. If the grafted eyes turn black, you will have to repeat everything, but lower down the stem. After a month, the bandage holding the grafted buds must be removed, and the shoots that have begun to grow should be pinched and carefully torn off with your fingers at the very top. Remove the first buds that appear. But that’s not all - cut off the rosehip shoots above the grafting site.
After the first frosts, you should carefully bend the plant to the ground, cover the grafting sites from below and above with small coniferous branches and cover them with a 15-20 cm layer of earth. In the spring, as soon as the soil thaws, the roses are raised a little; later, when the buds bend, the trunks must be installed vertically. Check the safety of vaccinations - in case something is wrong.
Time passes, you keep an eye on your ward tree, the standard rose. When cultivated shoots above 3-5 leaves or buds appear, pinch them several times to form a branched crown, similar to the crown of a tree.
Until mid-summer, young rose plants should not be tied to a support - gusts of wind can break the grafts that have not yet grown together tightly. But in the second half of summer, support is simply necessary. Indeed, under the weight of the developed crown, the plants begin to bow to the ground.
And one last thing. All summer, remove wild growth from the trunk and from the root collar. If you have enough patience, by autumn you will be able to admire the young rose tree.
E. L. Rubtsova
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Grape
In gardens and personal plots, you can choose a warmer place for planting grapes, for example, on the sunny side of the house, garden pavilion, or veranda. It is recommended to plant grapes along the border of the site. The vines formed in one line will not take up much space and at the same time will be well lit from all sides. Near buildings, grapes must be placed so that they are not exposed to water flowing from the roofs. On level areas it is necessary to make ridges with good drainage due to drainage furrows. Some gardeners, following the experience of their colleagues from the western regions of the country, dig deep planting holes and fill them with organic fertilizers and fertilized soil. The holes, dug in waterproof clay, are a kind of closed vessel that is filled with water during the monsoon rains. In fertile land root system The grapes develop well at first, but as soon as waterlogging begins, they suffocate. Deep holes can play a positive role on soils where good natural drainage, permeable subsoil is provided, or reclamation artificial drainage is possible. Planting grapes
You can quickly restore an outdated grape bush using the layering method (“katavlak”). For this purpose, healthy vines of a neighboring bush are placed in grooves dug to the place where the dead bush used to grow, and covered with earth. The tip is brought to the surface, from which it then grows new bush. Lignified vines are laid on layering in the spring, and green ones - in July. They are not separated from the mother bush for two to three years. A frozen or very old bush can be restored by short pruning to healthy above-ground parts or by pruning to the “black head” of an underground trunk. In the latter case, the underground trunk is freed from the ground and completely cut down. Not far from the surface, new shoots grow from dormant buds, due to which a new bush is formed. Neglected and severely frost-damaged grape bushes are restored due to stronger fatty shoots formed in the lower part of the old wood and the removal of weakened sleeves. But before removing the sleeve, a replacement is formed. Grape care
A gardener starting to grow grapes needs to thoroughly study the structure grapevine and the biology of this most interesting plant. Grapes are vine (climbing) plants and require support. But it can spread along the ground and take root, as is observed with Amur grapes in a wild state. Roots and aboveground part The stems grow quickly, branch strongly and reach large sizes. Under natural conditions, without human intervention, a branched bush of grapes grows with many vines of different orders, which begins to bear fruit late and produces crops irregularly. In cultivation, grapes are shaped and the bushes are given a shape that is easy to care for, ensuring a high yield of high-quality bunches. Planting lemongrass
Schisandra chinensis, or schisandra, has several names - lemon Tree, red grapes, gomisha (Japanese), cochinta, kodzyanta (Nanai), kolchita (Ulch), usimtya (Udege), uchampu (Oroch). In terms of structure, systemic relationship, center of origin and distribution, Schisandra chinensis has nothing in common with the real citrus plant lemon, but all its organs (roots, shoots, leaves, flowers, berries) exude the aroma of lemon, hence the name Schisandra. The schisandra vine that clings or wraps around a support, along with Amur grapes and three types of actinidia, is an original plant of the Far Eastern taiga. Its fruits, like real lemons, are too sour for fresh consumption, but they have medicinal properties, a pleasant aroma, and this attracted a lot of attention to him. The taste of Schisandra chinensis berries improves somewhat after frost. Local hunters who consume such fruits claim that they relieve fatigue, invigorate the body and improve vision. The consolidated Chinese pharmacopoeia, compiled back in 1596, states: “the fruit of Chinese lemongrass has five tastes, classified as the first category of medicinal substances. The pulp of lemongrass is sour and sweet, the seeds are bitter and astringent, and in general the taste of the fruit is salty. Thus, All five tastes are present in it." Grow lemongrass
Gorgeous trees with graceful trunks and luxurious velvet crowns only at first glance seem unreal and fabulously exotic. In fact, they are available to everyone. Moreover, they differ from ordinary species only in pruning, winter preparation and installation of supports. Let's take a closer look at how to make a standard one yourself and what you need for this.
What kind of roses are these
Many beginners, mistakenly, believe that this type is a separate garden group. Although in fact this is just a technique of floral art that skillful rose growers created to emphasize the beauty and sophistication of these unsurpassed fragrant plants.
Did you know? There is no people in the world who do not worship roses. For example, Muslims equate tender buds with a gift from God and never allow themselves to trample fallen petals with their feet.
Undoubtedly, standard roses attract people with their unusual shape and arouse interest in finding out what they are. When creating such beauty, they try to evenly impart decorativeness to all sides of the tree. 
In addition, it should fit harmoniously into the overall landscape of the garden. But there is no need to worry about this at all.
The stems combine well in group plantings with identical ones and look alone on and in mixborders. Rose gardens are often arranged in different heights, thus forming a spectacular multi-tiered cascade.
Choosing a suitable location
Wherever you plant the standard one on yours, it will look spectacular everywhere. But will she be comfortable everywhere, let’s look into it in more detail.
When using the last component, it is important to take into account the substrate. It is highly undesirable in an acidic environment. To neutralize the pH reaction, bone or phosphorus meal will be needed, but the desired result will occur only after 3 years.
Did you know? The warriors of ancient Rome revered rose buds as a symbol of bravery and courage, so they considered it a great honor to be awarded a wreath of roses instead of a helmet.
Sandy loam substrate, which is not very favorable for standard roses, is crumbly, air- and water-permeable, heats up quickly, but has a small amount of micronutrients.
It is better to prefer a tandem from, short. The trunks also look good with annuals: , . Some experimenters arrange roses with maned barley or.
Experienced rose growers advise when creating compositions with young standard roses to take into account the volume of the root system of perennials.
Often, neglect of this detail leads to the displacement of weak seedlings. This undesirable effect can occur any time you place plants in close quarters. Only the strong will survive. 
Did you know? Almost all women's cosmetics include rose oil to one degree or another.
Much the situation is more complicated With viral infections, which are almost impossible to cure. Therefore, you need to keep it clean gardening tools, before pruning the crown, always disinfect and prevent harmful insects from entering the garden.
Every gardener who undertakes must understand that his main task is cleaning the plant from sprouts damaged by frost, diseases and insects, as well as removal of growth around the trunk and formation of a round, regular crown.
In the spring, work is carried out taking into account the varietal characteristics of the grafted variety. For example, nursery specialists advise not to cut miniature roses, floribundas, and hybrid teas short. You need to leave at least 6 buds on them. 
If you break this rule and cut off the branches at the level of the 2-4th bud, you will get a deformed shape with powerful, tall side shoots.
If you are dealing with a climbing garden group, cut out the skeletal shoots that bloomed last year, and only slightly shorten the young ones.
When there are no young shoots, do not completely remove the old lashes, but only slightly cut off the tops on their side branches. A similar haircut is given to ground cover varieties.
All cuts must be made sharp instrument disinfected with potassium permanganate. Ideally, the blade should go half a centimeter higher from the kidney. Sections whose diameter exceeds 1 cm, in mandatory sealed with garden varnish.
Important! Always remove any wild growth that appears at the grafting sites from the trunks. It grows intensively, is distinguished by increased thorniness and small foliage. If you are not careful, the tops will drown out the crown.
Preparing for winter
You should start preparing for cold weather in advance, without waiting for the first frost. Approximately at the beginning of October or a couple of weeks earlier, the branches are pruned in accordance with varietal characteristics grafted variety.
Young shoots that have not had time to form and ripen are removed entirely. Otherwise, they will not be able to survive the winter and will cause severe injury to the tree.
Experts advise roses from the hybrid tea group and floribunda to be shortened by 40 cm. On cascading and climbing small-flowered samples, pruning is done sparingly, barely touching the tops. 
During the preparation process it is necessary remove all the leaves from the crown, dig up the trunk on one side and tilt it to the ground. Then driven into the ground metal hook secure the barrel in this position.
The crown should not be allowed to fall onto bare ground. Spruce branches are laid under it and covered with plastic film on top. The rhizome is hidden under a mound of dry substrate (some do the same procedure with the crown). In winter, the structure with a standard rose is covered with snow.
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Standard plants occupy an important place in the ranking of gardeners; they are popular all over the world, and the standard rose is practically the favorite here.
If you haven't dealt with this before beautiful flower, then get acquainted, a standard rose is a rose grown in the form of a small tree, consisting of two parts: roots and trunk, and crown - garden rose. That is, any rose can be a standard rose if it is grafted high on a rosehip stem, and contrary to popular opinion, it is not a separate unusual variety.
Even if at first glance these gorgeous flowers seem like something inaccessible and exotic to you, we hasten to reassure you that this is not the case; caring for them is no different from ordinary roses. It’s just that, as in any business, there are some peculiarities here, for standard roses these are: pruning, installation of supports and shelter.
What you need to know when growing standard roses
The main enemy of standard roses is strong wind, so it is important to choose a strong support that should not only be reliable, but also have decorative look. The support must be installed in a hole prepared in advance for planting before planting a standard rose - this will protect the roots of the plant and not damage it.
If you prefer to grow a standard yourself or decide to purchase one, then you should pay attention to the following qualities: the standard must be even, have a delicate aroma and high-quality flowers with healthy leaves, as well as arched stems - they look most organic in the final product blooming version trees.
It is important to pay attention to the height of the seedlings - the further location of the plant in the arrangement of the garden, and what varieties will be possible to plant on them, depends on this choice. Standard roses are usually divided into categories that depend on the height of the standard and their size, not including the crown itself.
Exist:
- low or dwarf standard (from 40 to 45 centimeters)
- semi-standard (from 70 centimeters)
- standard (from 90 centimeters)
- cascade (from 120 centimeters and above)
In general, any variety of roses can be grafted onto a trunk, but choose the right varieties in accordance with the size of the trunk, not forgetting the climatic conditions. It is also customary to graft one type of rose onto one standard, but there are variations when several varieties are used; for these purposes it is necessary to select those that bloom at the same time.
Raised standard rose bushes of English types, semi-standard floribunda varieties or miniature patios will look impressive. A rose garden or the presence of roses on a site always looks solemn and elegant.
What you should pay attention to when buying a standard
Today, in almost any market or in specialized gardening stores you can buy standard roses in various containers: from ordinary bags to containers. By the type of packaging you can understand exactly how the seedling was cared for; a plant grown in a container is more sensitive to the lack of proper watering. It is worth paying attention to the stem of the standard rose; it should be smooth, without damage and no thinner than one centimeter in diameter. If the stem is thicker, this indicates a weeping plant.
If a trunk seedling was purchased with white elongated stems from buds, they must certainly be cut off when planting, so new ones will develop from the buds that are dying in any case.
Be careful with roots that are exposed from the ground; such a plant will take longer to take root if it is not watered enough.
So, by conducting a little analysis, you can understand how well the seedlings were grafted, what condition the soil and roots are in, and how quickly the seedling will take root and develop in your garden after planting.
Choosing a support
Standard roses are the “highlight” of any garden and will not leave indifferent even the most capricious beauty gourmet. Speaking about the advantages, we should safely give first place to resistance to weather conditions and less susceptibility to disease, since the tree is located on a hill, and the base of the plant protects the plant from fungal infections.
When the time comes to plant the trunk, be sure to replace the temporary support to which it was attached with the main one - as strong as possible. Because if the bush starts to grow too quickly, its weight will also increase quickly. The support should be slightly lower than the crown and located at a distance of about ten centimeters from the trunk.
If you are growing a seedling in a pot, take care of additional fastening so that it is resistant to possible winds.
The best option for supporting a standard rose would be metal or wooden stakes, or rods or fiberglass tubes. It is customary to place the support deep into the ground on the opposite side of the slope. The level of inclination is quite easy to determine - you just need to pay attention to the bend at the base of the plant - its opposite side is what we need. Before this shoot became a standard tree, it had a growth direction, after which it was lifted and tied to a support, and a bend was formed. This information will be very useful for winter, when the time comes to cover the roses. Incorrectly inclined bollards run the risk of being broken.
Caring for standard roses
High-quality care for bole roses is no different from caring for simple bush roses and depends on varietal preferences. Roses need good watering, spring protection crowns from drying out, also weeding, fertilizing and getting rid of pests, in winter - in shelter.
Typically, the planting of trunks begins in early spring - for central Russia, and for the Moscow regions, the optimal start for planting is the end of April, the beginning of May.
Planting begins with digging a hole, which should be larger earthen coma, which we take out of a pot or bag - there must be enough space for growth and development. The recommended depth for planting roses is 60-70 centimeters; it is important that the roots and the beginning of the seedling are immersed in the soil to this depth, otherwise they can be torn out by a gust of strong wind. The distance between seedlings should be at least 100 centimeters.
Standard rose, planted directly into the soil, needs frequent watering for the first three weeks. If the trunk is grown in a pot, then watering should be carried out daily - moisture quickly evaporates in a small area. In the future, the standard rose will need to be watered depending on weather conditions, in rainy periods - less, and in dry periods - more.
You can cover the trunk with soil by making a bedding for the crown from dry oak leaves, spruce branches, cardboard or paper. Spruce branches are an excellent material because they do not rot, do not retain moisture and are quite loose. Under no circumstances should you use sawdust or peat - they do not allow moisture to pass through, and the ice crust formed in the process will damage the branches. The roots of the standard rose at the base should be covered with earth, and a little rodent poison or repellent should be placed in the crown. Sprinkle spruce branches on top and finally cover plastic film or other resistant materials. Roses are ready for...
In the first half of April, you can begin to remove the cover, but you need to do this gradually, otherwise the roses, out of habit, may suffer from sunburn or frost.
Varieties of standard roses (video)
Growing standard roses usually takes up to five years, so it is recommended to think about it in advance. appearance your plot and choose the varieties you like in accordance with the climate and flowering and the conditions necessary for this type. The garden where roses grow can rightfully be considered royal!