Secrets and nuances. Do-it-yourself log house: technology, video tutorials How to cut a log house from a round log

Wood, being an environmentally friendly material, not only effectively retains heat, but also gives the air in the room a special aroma.

To build a wooden one, you must first prepare the timber.

Stage 1. Preparation of round timber

Attention! To determine the quality of logs (you can refuse low-grade sawlogs at any time), you need to know about ideal conditions blanks, which we will consider below.

Round timber must be harvested at sub-zero temperature, that is, in winter. It is at this time that the amount of moisture in the wood is minimized, therefore, during drying the material will deform and crack less.

In order to ensure the durability of the log house, certain sections of logs (the so-called butt logs) are used during construction. These sections start from the rhizome and end at the crown. Such butt logs are denser (which compares favorably with the tops) and there are practically no knots in them. Selection criteria also include the round shape and degree of curvature of the trunk. In both cases, a defect is an error exceeding 1 cm per linear meter.

Attention! If the length is, for example, 5 m, and the error exceeds 5 cm, then the log can be safely rejected.

The same applies to diameter. For example, the diameter of the base of the log is 35 cm, while the top is 25 cm or less. Such round timber is categorically not recommended for use in construction.

Finally, pay attention to the type of wood. Ideally, coniferous trees (spruce, larch, etc.) should be used for a bathhouse. Larch is characterized by resistance to moisture, although in extreme cases you can resort to the “pine-spruce” combination, in which the first few crowns are erected from pine. And if only spruce is used in construction, then the material must be treated several times with an antiseptic.

Perform further actions in accordance with the previously drawn up project. You can make one yourself, find it on the Internet, or order it from specialists. It is with the help of this document that you can calculate the required amount of consumables, determine the area and shape of the base.

Stage 2. Timber processing

Step 1. After the consumables have been delivered to you (or you have cut them and delivered them yourself), they need 25-30 days to rest.

Step 3. Then start processing. First, peel the bark from the logs (do this carefully so that they do not crack), leaving a little of it on the sides - about a 15-centimeter strip on each side.

Step 4. After processing, place the logs in storage approximately 25 cm from the surface of the ground. You can stack it however you like - in stacks, packs, etc., the main thing is that the distance between the logs is 7-10 cm.

Video - Preparing logs

Stage 3. Construction of the foundation

Let’s immediately make a reservation that massive monolithic ones can be abandoned due to their low weight future design. In order to save money, you can resort to one of two possible lightweight designs, namely:

• strip foundation;
• columnar.

Let's consider each of the options.

To build such a foundation around the entire perimeter, as well as under future walls, dig a trench 40 cm wide and 50 cm deep, lay a “cushion” of sand and gravel at the bottom. Next, lay the reinforcement, build formwork 50 cm high and pour concrete mortar. The resulting height will be approximately 1 m.

Attention! A more specific height depends on the depth of soil freezing in a particular region.

Video - Pouring the foundation

Place strips of sand and crushed stone inside the perimeter. In the future, the strips could be filled with concrete or built on them wooden floor. The choice of one option or another depends on personal preferences and financial capabilities.

Columnar foundation

If necessary, it will be necessary to erect supports. There are two possible options:

• brick;
• from asbestos pipes.

Place supports at the corners of the perimeter, as well as under all walls in 1.5 m increments. Pre-lay a concrete “cushion” under each support. Fix several reinforcement rods in each support so that the latter protrude above the surface by at least 30 cm.

Build formwork 40 cm high, lay reinforcement in it and tie it to rods protruding from the supports. Fill in concrete mortar. After four to five weeks, when the concrete is completely dry, you can begin further work.

Stage 4. Waterproofing the base

Treat the surface of the foundation with molten and lay a layer of roofing material on top. After the bitumen has completely dried, repeat the procedure. As a result, you will have a reliable two-layer.

Stage 5. Preparing tools

To work you will need the following equipment:

The last instrument – ​​the “line” – will be given Special attention. For manufacturing you will need steel wire with sharpened ends. Bend the wire in half so that it takes the shape of a compass; you can additionally secure the handle. This tool will be needed when marking logs.

Stage 6. Construction of a log bathhouse

There are several assembly technologies:

The first option - Russian felling - is the easiest to perform; even an inexperienced carpenter can handle it. Therefore, we will consider this technology.

Step 1. The construction of the log house should be carried out in stages and begin with the frame crown (in other words, from the first). Logs that will serve decorative crown, push it onto the edge for the tightest fit to the foundation.

Step 2. Lay the first pair of logs on top of the waterproofing layer. Place the next pair at an angle of 90ᵒ relative to the first and connect everything into a “cup”.

Attention! "Cup" is the most simple option connections during the construction of log buildings. It is done quite simply: the boundaries of the future “cup” are measured at the bottom of the log, then a recess is marked using a “line”. After checking the dimensions again, the recess is carefully cut out with an ax.

You can use a chainsaw - this will save a lot of time. Although the final finishing of the “cups” will still have to be done with an ax.

Attention! In the starting crown, the “cups” will not be deep, as a result of which the logs will not come into contact with the base. Therefore, place a lining in the gap that appears - a small piece of board of the required thickness, treated with an antiseptic and covered with insulation.

Step 3. Next, lay the second crown using the thickest logs possible. This is explained by the fact that in the future you will cut sex joists into them. To ensure a tight fit, make a hole in the top log longitudinal groove, which would be equal to a third of the diameter of the previous log. To draw the boundaries of the groove, place the upper log on the lower one and mark using the “line”.

Attention! The longitudinal groove can be semicircular or triangular. If you have a chainsaw available, you can cut a triangular groove in two to three minutes. But remember: logs with such a groove will not fit tightly, which will negatively affect the thermal insulation properties of the walls.

Obviously, the best option is a semicircular groove. Do it with a chainsaw and use a chisel to remove any residue.

Step 4. Insulate the joints of the logs, preferably using flax-jute fabric. Place one piece of canvas on lower crown, use the second to seal the longitudinal groove (especially if the latter has a triangular shape).

Step 5. Connect the crowns together. Here you can use:

• dowels square shape;
• round dowels made of wood.

The second method is preferable, because dowels can be purchased ready-made and holes can be made using an electric drill.

Make holes in increments of 1-1.5 m, parallel stitching the top pair of crowns completely and not completely the third one (from the bottom). To avoid distortion, after shrinkage is completed, recess the dowels into the upper crown by at least 6-7 cm.

Step 6. Having raised the walls to the desired height, lay them on top ceiling beams and rafters. If damp wood was used, then lay slate sheets instead of rafters and wait until the structure shrinks. Usually, it is enough to overwinter once, but ideally, shrinkage should last a year and a half.

In the spring, when the shrinkage is complete, start caulking.

Video - Roof made of aspen shingles

Stage 7. Doors and window openings

We specifically started talking about openings after construction was completed, since there are two options for their arrangement.

Stage 8. Caulking logs

After shrinkage is completed, the log house is caulked. To do this, prepare the following equipment:

• hammer;
• caulk (made of wood or metal).

Attention! If you sealed the inter-crown space with tow or moss, you can skip this step, since you most likely will not need caulk. But if you find even the slightest cracks, then it is still better to carry out the procedure.

Proceed to work only after the insulation has completely dried. First, twist the material (tow or moss) into a rope, then hammer it between the crowns with a hammer and caulk.

You can use tape jute - in this case, the material is simply fixed with nails or a mounting stapler.

Video – Caulk of a log house

Stage 9. Roof

As soon as the tree shrinks, you can begin construction. If you do this earlier, the roof will simply collapse.

Step 1. Lay on wall trim wooden beams(we already talked about this).

Step 2. Fix the beams and attach the rafter legs to them in 1 m increments. In the ridge part, cut the rafters at the appropriate angle for the connection.

Step 3. Nail to rafter legs solid boardwalk (if you plan to use rolled roofing material) or make a sheathing (if you use slate, tiles, etc.).

Step 4. Install the roofing according to the instructions for the specific material.

Step 5. Cover the ridge with galvanized sheet steel to protect it from aggressive environmental influences.

Step 6. Cover the roof gables with siding or clapboard.

An example of a log house with a shingle roof

1. Sometimes during assembly it becomes necessary to join logs. In this case, do not allow the joints to be located on top of each other. Moreover, joints in the lower rim are not allowed.
2. When laying the log frame on ready foundation You can collect the logs even before drying by placing a compactor between them.
3. It is advisable to install windows after shrinkage, because otherwise they may warp.

Now you know how to buildDIY log house.

The construction of wooden houses and baths is gaining unprecedented popularity. This is explained by the environmental friendliness and safety of wood, as well as the availability of assembly of wooden structures.

Modern felling of log houses is represented by both the simplest and technologically complex methods, which provide maximum protection of the finished log house from adverse effects environment.

The final stage of wooden construction is the assembly of the frame. Often, for the construction of wall structures, rounded logs are used, which are securely connected to each other using special tenons and grooves.

Overview of log cutting methods

To understand how to properly cut a log house, you need to choose the most suitable way lumber connections.

Most popular technologies logging – Russian, Canadian, Swedish, Finnish and Norwegian. For each of them can be used various options log connections.

Canadian

Chopping in Canadian bowl is performed on round logs and has a number of advantages:

• Increases the service life of lumber.
• Provides additional protection log house from moisture penetration at the internal corners.
• Reduces heat losses.
• Maintains an optimal indoor microclimate.
• Simplifies in the channel provided for it.

Russian

Russian felling is one of the most sought-after and popular types of construction of wooden houses. Often, it is performed using a round chopped log.

This material is resistant to high moisture, mold and fungal infection. The fastening of logs using Russian technology is carried out in 2 ways - in the paw and in the head.

Finnish

To erect a wooden structure using Finnish technology, it is recommended to use round timber and timber prepared from coniferous species trees. Preparation of material using Finnish technology is similar to the previous version. The insulating material is placed tightly and deeply between the logs, so it is completely invisible from the outside.

Norwegian

Norwegian technology involves the use of a log carriage with an oval cross-section. Otherwise, this technology is carried out similarly to the Canadian version. However, with this option for preparing logs, the walls are flat, which effectively saves space, especially in small buildings.

Swedish

Visually Swedish technology differs from all others in the appearance of the resulting ends. In this case, the crowns are hewn in the form of hexagons. The bowl is also shaped like a ½ hexagon, making it easier to place crowns. Swedish felling is characterized by the complexity of installation and high financial investments.

How to properly cut any type of log house in order to get a practical and durable structure? This process involves sawing or cutting out special corner joints and longitudinal grooves on a beam or log for reliable installation of crowns. This can be done in several ways.

Method of cutting "in the cloud"

Felling in oblo is the simplest and most affordable option construction various types log cabins, which is done manually. The process of preparing building material itself does not require much time and labor.

This method involves removing logs from the corners of the log house at a distance of up to 25 cm, which leads to a reduction in the size of the finished structure on all sides. For this reason, it has another name - cutting with residue.

This construction option provides additional strength to the structure, and protruding elements protect the corners of the frame from damage and destruction.

The bowl is made in the shape of a semicircle with a smooth surface and is not equipped with locks. To prevent possible rotting of logs, it is recommended to carry out timely inspections outside and inside.

“Bowl” cutting method

Cutting into a bowl is an intermediate option between okhlop and oblo, it is performed in half a tree, while the chopped bowl can be positioned up or down.

Arranging the logs with the bowls facing down is not only convenient, but also practical. This will prevent the accumulation of excess moisture in the cups and protect the joints from rotting. Preparing logs with the bowls down is often called “slamming” due to the fact that the upper element of the structure is placed with the bowl on the lower one, as if slamming it down.

This option for preparing logs eliminates the formation of unwanted voids in the joints between the crowns.

Many novice craftsmen may wonder how to cut a log house into a bowl or thicket correctly? All work is carried out in the following order:

• The future log house is marked and the logs are prepared in accordance with the required parameters. Each whip is numbered.
• The size of the bowl should be equal to ½ the thickness of the log. Stepping back 22 cm from the edge, markings are applied with a pencil or nail.
• Processing is performed with a chainsaw or cleaver to obtain even and smooth edges of the bowl.
• A tenon for the bowl is made in the lower log, and a groove is made in the upper log. During the assembly process, insulation is placed between the individual elements. The crowns are assembled with the bowl facing down. This is required in order to prevent moisture from entering the joints when fully loaded.

The “paw” cutting method

Foot-cutting involves laying logs in such a way that they do not extend beyond external corners. This method requires serious preparation and adherence to the technology of laying individual elements.

Reliable connection of the crowns is ensured by the presence of double locks in the corners of the building. Inaccuracies in the installation of logs can lead to the appearance of cracks and gaps in finished design, which in the future is fraught with large heat losses.

To improve thermal conductivity in the corners of the log house when using this processing method, it is recommended to carry out additional insulation and external cladding.

The “in-paw” processing method provides an increase usable area premises while maintaining the length of the log used.

Work on the construction of a log house using this method is carried out in the following order: first the lower crowns are laid, then the wooden base for the floor, then the flooring is laid and the construction of wall structures continues.

You can cut a log house yourself by preparing high-quality lumber and choosing the most suitable laying technology. The finished log house is durable, practical and easy to maintain, so it can last for decades.

Building a bathhouse from a log house is not simple task, however, the construction technology, the choice of materials and even the exact sequence of actions have long been known and worked out by many craftsmen.

This material explains everything key points, which will help in the construction of a log bathhouse: from laying the foundation to interior finishing.

The steam bath has been known since the time of the Scythians, who carried with them special bath tents and camp heaters. And in the 21st century, the Russian bathhouse has not become some kind of archaism, having successfully withstood centuries-old competition with bathtubs and showers. Getting rid of many ailments, removing harmful substances from the body accumulated in everyday life in the city, giving the body complete rest - all this has been achieved by visiting the bathhouse for more than one and a half thousand years.

Which design is preferable, how to choose a place to place it, how it is designed in general - you will find answers to many “bathroom” questions in this article.

Place and layout of the bathhouse

One of the important additions to the bathhouse itself at all times was a pond with fresh water, located nearby - in the absence of another source of water supply, water was taken from it. The special charm of the proximity of such a reservoir lies in the possibility of a contrasting ablution - after steaming in a Russian bathhouse, running out of it and plunging into the cool water of the reservoir. In addition, the natural reservoir made it possible to quickly cope with a fire in the bathhouse, which occurred quite often due to violations in the construction of the stove.

Bound today country bathhouse there is no particular need for a natural reservoir, but it is still convenient if it is located near, say, an artificial reservoir - the final decision always remains with the owner of the dacha.

The main criteria for choosing a place for a bathhouse: distance from the road, the presence of natural or artificial fencing from outside spectators (dense bushes, tree crowns, fence, outbuildings), the fire distance from the main residential building is at least 15 meters.

The main rooms of the bathhouse are the dressing room, washing room and steam room (the last two rooms can be combined into one). The size of the dressing room is determined at the rate of 1.4 m 2 per bather, the size of the washing room is 1.2 m 2 per person. In addition, the dressing room should have space for furniture (a locker for clothes, a bench for sitting) and for storing fuel (a box for coal or firewood). In the washing room you will need space for containers with hot and cold water, a stove and space for sun loungers.

For example, for small family(no more than 4 people) the following bath sizes are suitable: external size - 4x4 m; dressing room - 1.5x2.4 m; washing room - 2x2 m; steam room - 2x1.5 m. True, in a bathhouse of this size you can’t really turn around - but it also takes up little space.

In general, the size of the bathhouse is directly related to the size of the area that can be allocated for it. If the area is significant, then the bathhouse can be expanded by adding a shower cabin, lounge areas, etc.

In temperate and cold climate zones, it will be correct if the entrance to the bathhouse is located in the south, and window openings- on the western (southwestern) side of it. This location of the entrance will greatly simplify the use of the bathhouse in the winter season, since the snowdrifts on the south side melt faster, and the direction of the windows will allow the premises to be illuminated with sunlight longer.

Bathhouse construction - stages

There are several of them:

1. Procurement of basic materials.
2. Selecting and laying the foundation.
3. Creating a foundation for a stove (if necessary).
4. Creation of the floor and sewer system of the bathhouse.
5. Assembling a log bathhouse.
6. Roof construction.
7. Formation of a blind area around the perimeter.
8. Caulking bath walls.
9. Laying or installing a stove, installing a chimney.
10. Electricity and water supply for the bathhouse.
11. Installation of doors and installation of shelves.

Preparation of basic materials for the bath

The classic and most successful construction material for a Russian bathhouse has been and will remain wood - wood easily copes with waterlogging of bathhouses, removing excess moisture outside.

What wood is suitable for building a bathhouse? As a rule, baths are built from round timber of pine or spruce with a diameter of no more than 250 mm - only wood will create an indescribable internal atmosphere in the steam room. However, in some places it is better to include wood of other species in the design of the bathhouse - oak, larch and linden. For example, lower crowns and flooring logs made of oak will allow you to get a truly durable bathhouse. A nuance - the oak must be cut down “in its sap” (i.e., not dead wood) and dried under a canopy. The lower crowns (no more than 4) following the first oak crown are best made of larch. The final crowns, elements of interior decoration and cladding should be made of linden or white spruce - their wood removes moisture better than others.

When do you need to stockpile wood for building a bathhouse? Round wood, wood for interior decoration, must be cut down in winter, during the period when tree trunks contain the least amount of moisture - it is easier to dry. In addition, not the entire tree trunk is suitable for building a bathhouse - only the middle part of the trunk is suitable, i.e. the top and butt are not suitable.

An important criterion when selecting wood will be the absence of cavities and streaks of resin on the coniferous round timber, dryness, sanded surface, absence of rotten areas and places of wood-boring beetle damage.

Bathhouse foundation

The main types of foundations for the construction of baths are strip and columnar, depending on local soils. Regardless of the type of foundation chosen, it is necessary to lay them with the utmost care - preferably to the depth of soil freezing. Preliminary work before laying a foundation of any type: clearing the site of debris, completely removing the top layer of soil to a depth of 200 mm (we remove the fertile layer).

To choose the right foundation, you need to determine the type of local soil, which can belong to one of three main groups:

1. Weak soil consists of peat, silt, silty sand (contains a lot of water), fluid or fluid-plastic clay.
2. Heaving soil (subject to seasonal swelling) consists of sand (silty or fine), clay components (clay, loam and sandy loam).
3. Slightly heaving soil is formed by rocks, medium and large grains of sand.

Columnar (pile) foundation for a bathhouse

Installed on slightly heaving soils: it consists of pillars laid in the corners of the bathhouse, as well as at the junction of internal and external walls. If the distance between two adjacent foundation pillars is more than 2 m, another pillar is laid between them. The depth of laying the columnar foundation is at least 1.5 m.

The pillars for such a foundation can be easily made directly at the site where the bathhouse was built; the material for them can be red brick, rubble stone, bound with concrete mortar. Basic (angular) brick pillars for a columnar foundation, it is usually square in shape, with a side of 380 mm, auxiliary ones are rectangular, with a cross-section of 380x250 mm. If necessary, the main pillars are made of two bricks - with a section of 510x510 mm. Saving rubble stone and brick during the construction of a columnar foundation is achieved by filling the foundation pits with sand - half their depth; coarse sand is laid in layers (each layer is 100–150 mm), filled with water and compacted.

When building a bathhouse with your own hands, you can also make foundation pillars yourself. To do this, you will need a collapsible formwork made of boards, coated on the inside with a non-hardening lubricant such as Emulsol. You need to place iron reinforcement inside the assembled formwork, then pour the concrete mixture.

To cast foundation pillars inside holes dug for them, sliding formwork made of roofing iron, plastic, roofing felt or thick cardboard is used. From the material selected for sliding formwork, a pipe with a diameter of 200 mm is created, which is placed in a foundation pit of a larger diameter - from 300 mm. The free space around the formwork is filled with sand - it will act as a lubricant and prevent lifting concrete pillar when the soil swells. Reinforcement tied with thick wire is inserted inside the formwork, then a concrete mixture is poured, which must be thoroughly compacted. Using wire handles pre-fixed to the sliding formwork, it is lifted by swaying by 400 mm, sand is poured on the outside and a new portion of concrete is poured.

Asbestos-cement pipes can be used as a columnar foundation; they are durable, not subject to rot, and their outer surface is quite smooth, which allows them not to change their position when the soil swells. Asbestos-cement pipes are also filled with concrete; their underground part must be coated with a mineral-based construction lubricant to reduce the risk of freezing to the ground.

In the spaces between the foundation pillars of the external walls of the bathhouse and the internal walls of the steam room, brick walls are laid out; their thickness is sufficient - brick and even half a brick. Such brick walls must be buried 250 mm into the ground.

The foundation pillars and brick walls between them are raised to a height of 300–400 mm from the ground level; they need to be leveled with cement mortar and covered with roofing felt for waterproofing. During casting, metal embedments of the required shape are installed at the ends of the pillars - they are designed to fasten the bathhouse frame to the foundation.

When building a bathhouse on heaving soils, it will be necessary to create a strip monolithic foundation.

Sequence of work:

1. Marking a construction site with twine stretched between pegs.
2. Digging a trench of the required depth (its size is related to the characteristics of local soils, at least 400 mm) and 300 mm wide.
3. Add a layer of sand to the bottom of the trench, then gravel (each 70–100 mm).
4. Installation of formwork.
5. Laying reinforcement.
6. Fill concrete mixture.

The reinforcement laid at the bottom of the foundation trenches must have a cross-section of at least 12 mm; it is laid along each of the two sides of the trench and knitted into a frame, lifted to its middle using brick fragments.

The composition of the concrete mixture is calculated in the proportion 5:3:1 (crushed stone: sand: cement), the sand used must be dry and clean (washed). Calculating the volume of concrete required to pour a strip foundation is quite simple; you just need to measure the width, depth and total length of the foundation. For example, with a width of 0.3 m, a depth of 0.4 m and a total length of 22 m, the following volume of concrete mixture will be required:

• 0.3 x 0.4 x 22 = 2.64 m3

One of the difficulties in preparing a dry concrete mixture is the lack of scales at construction sites. Therefore, this method of calculating dry components for concrete will be useful to you: one 10-liter bucket holds from 15 to 17 kg of crushed stone, sand - from 14 to 17 kg, cement - from 13 to 14 kg.

The formwork is placed in such a way that the concrete foundation cast into it protrudes 100 mm above the ground level. As the concrete mixture is poured into the prepared formwork, its mass must be pierced many times bayonet shovel or a wire probe, tap with a hammer outside formwork (we eliminate air pockets). Then you need to wait until the foundation is completely cured, approximately 5 to 7 days. When carrying out foundation work in the cold season, after pouring the concrete, the formwork must be covered with PVC film and covered with sawdust or other insulation on top.

After the expiration of the period allocated for drying the cast foundation, we proceed to waterproofing it and lifting it in brick rows (if lifting the bathhouse is not required, then after waterproofing we proceed to the cement screed). You will need the following materials:

1. Ruberoid.
2. Pipe about 2 m (plastic or metal), with a cross-section from 32 to 57 mm.
3. Masonry mesh.
4. Red brick.
5. Masonry mortar.

Roofing felt (roofing felt) is cut into strips sufficient for laying on a concrete foundation, then laid on top of the foundation on bitumen mastic(for roofing felt - tar mastic). The brick is laid using a single-row dressing method: masonry mortar is laid on a layer of roofing material, the first brick row is placed on it “in a butt” (across the foundation axis), then a masonry mesh is laid, the mortar is laid and the next brick row is laid, but in a “spoon” (along the axis foundation). Every new row brickwork accompanied by flooring masonry mesh, placements “in a spoon” and “in a poke” alternate with each other. In the 3rd or 5th bonded rows of masonry, you need to install ventilation vents from pipe scraps - 5-7 vents are enough for the entire foundation. The number of brick rows depends on the desired foundation height.

The last row of brickwork is covered with a cement screed (mortar composition sand:cement as 1:2 or 1:3), with a 20 mm layer.

Independent foundation for the heater and bath floor

We create the foundation for the stove and assemble the sauna frame. If it is expected capital masonry heaters - it requires an independent foundation, i.e. not connected to the main foundation.

The floor in the bathhouse can be clay, earthen, wood or concrete. By and large, it does not need thermal insulation, since the temperature at its level is practically no higher than 30 ° C. The surface of the bath floor is usually laid wooden grate, cork mats or mats - their task is to relieve bathhouse visitors from the sharp feeling of cold caused by touching the floor at the exit from the steam room. For self-drying, the flooring is raised above the level of the main floor.

The main disadvantage of a wooden bathhouse floor is its frequent waterlogging - water, penetrating through the cracks between the boards, will accumulate in them, causing rot and the appearance of an unpleasant odor. Wooden covering the floor wears out quickly, acquiring an unsightly appearance, and may require replacement after 6–8 years. It would be more practical for bath flooring tile- it is easier to care for, it is not susceptible to moisture, which easily flows down its surface.

The floors in the bathhouse premises must be placed at different levels: the steam room floor is 150 mm above the level of the washing room floor (we retain heat), the washing room floor is 30 mm below the floor level in the dressing room (we protect it from water).

Since installing a concrete floor covered with ceramic tiles in the washing room and steam room is more profitable than a wooden floor, we will consider this option.

There are several ways to install a concrete floor in a bathhouse. First of all, we prepare the base for the formation of a warm floor - it consists of a 100 mm layer of sand and a 100 mm layer of medium-fraction crushed stone, laid sequentially. Each layer should be well compacted and leveled. Then lay roofing felt on top, covering the walls with it to the height of the future floor.

Further actions:

1. First option- laying a 50 mm layer of felt, expanded clay or slag, on top of a 50 mm layer of concrete with the formation of a slope towards the drain hole. After the concrete has set, it needs to be leveled with a cement solution, after which you can begin tiling work.
2. Second option- 50 mm cement strainer, containing perlite (expanded sand). Mixture composition: perlite: cement: water as 5: 1: 3. After a full week has passed since the perlite concrete was laid, we apply a 30 mm layer of concrete on top with a slope towards the drain. When dealing with perlite, you need to be especially careful - this material is extremely light, even a light breeze blows it away, so you need to work with it in indoors without drafts. Observe the proportion of water exactly!

If the base of the bathhouse is raised significantly above the ground level (from 300 mm), flooring will require wooden joists square section (side 150 mm). If the dimensions of the bathhouse premises do not exceed 2000x3000 mm, then the supports for the logs will be the frame logs. For large sizes, additional supports for floor joists will be required; they are pillars made of concrete or brick (250x250 mm) and are placed at a distance of 700–800 mm. Support posts for logs must be placed on a multi-layer base of sand, crushed stone and concrete - each 100 mm thick.

Important! Before forming the base to support the logs, it is necessary to make a foundation for the stove and build a sewerage system.

The wood for the logs can be oak, larch or coniferous trees; the logs should be treated with tar or an antiseptic before installation.

The flooring solution in this case is as follows: the concrete space between the foundation is covered with roofing felt with the walls overlapping to the height of the floor, filled with slag or expanded clay (a layer of 200 mm of foam plastic can be laid between the layer of roofing felt and bulk insulation), to bottom side joists are attached to the subfloor made of 29 mm edged boards. Then a PVC film, foil mineral insulation, and another layer of film are laid for vapor barrier. Pour a 5 mm layer of concrete with fine filler on top, create a slope under the drain hole - after 3-4 days we lay ceramic tiles.

Don't forget to bring the foundation for the stove to floor level.

The floor in the dressing room is made of 19-29 mm tongue-and-groove boards made of coniferous wood.

Important point: when finishing a clean floor, and indeed the entire steam room and washing room, do not use synthetic building materials - this condition is especially relevant for a steam room!

Bath sewage system

To drain wastewater from the bathhouse you will need: a pit with a water seal, a well for Wastewater and pipes that drain dirty water into a pit and then into a waste well.

The pit is torn off from the outside of the bathhouse foundation, and gravity pipes made of plastic, cast iron or ceramics are inserted into it from the steam room and washing room ( metal pipes will rust quickly).

The pit should be 500 mm from the foundation, its depth - 700 mm, cross-section - 500x500 mm. The walls of the pit are covered with a 100 mm layer of concrete, and a 110 mm drain pipe(s) from the bathhouse is inserted into it under the foundation. The main well for drainage, containing at least 2 m3, must be dug at a distance of at least 2.5 m from the pit - the further the better. A pipe is supplied to it from the pit, laid at a slope at a depth of 1.5 m (below the freezing depth), its outlet from the pit must be located 100 mm from its bottom. After entering drain pipe, the main drainage well is filled with gravel or sand 1 m from the bottom, soil is poured on top - in a layer of at least 500 mm. When laying, carefully compact each layer.

Before leading the drain pipe into the pit, a galvanized water seal is installed, located at an obtuse angle to the drain pipe from the bathhouse. Its edges and upper side are hermetically attached to the walls of the pit; the distance from its lower edge to the bottom should be no more than 50 mm - thanks to this design, unpleasant odors and cold air will not penetrate into the steam room (washing room) through the drainage hole.

To prevent freezing in winter period The pit must be covered with two lids of the appropriate size (wooden or metal), felt must be laid between them, and the top lid must be covered with expanded clay, slag or sawdust.

Log house, roofing and blind area

It is better to make a log house for a bathhouse to order from professional performers; its production is quite difficult. The finished log house in disassembled form must be brought to the construction site and assembled according to the numbering of the logs. The crowns are fastened with steel 25 mm tenon brackets with a total length of up to 150 mm, a tooth length of up to 70 mm.

The roof structure of the bathhouse includes rafters, sheathing is attached to them, then roofing material. The choice of the final roof structure depends on the roof covering with which it will be covered. The rafters are attached to the last crown of the frame (preferably the penultimate one) using tenon brackets. As a rule, the construction of baths involves the installation of a single- or gable roof, the slope angle (from 10° to 60°) of which depends on the abundance and amount of precipitation in the area. Please note - the steeper the roof, the more material is required to create it.

Single-pitch rafters, located at an angle, are secured with two external or internal and external supports. If the span of the rafters exceeds 5 m, they are supported with additional struts. The rafters of a gable roof rest with their lower ends on the walls, the upper ends are connected to each other, forming a ridge.

The roof of the bathhouse can be covered with any material (slate, tiles, roofing felt, galvanized, etc.), with an overlap of at least 500 mm on the walls.

The attic space must be made ventilated, that is, equipped with two doors at opposite ends of the roof.

We make a blind area along the perimeter of the foundation: completely remove upper layer soil, we go 200 mm deep at a distance of 600-800 mm from the base of the bathhouse, lay a 100 mm layer of gravel (crushed stone, expanded clay) and then level it. We lay expansion joints (19 mm board covered with resin or bitumen, in increments of 2-2.5 m perpendicular to the foundation), fill with a 100 mm layer of concrete. Before the concrete sets, its surface must be ironed - cover with a layer of dry cement of 3-5 mm. After 3 days, the line of contact between the blind area and the foundation of the bathhouse must be covered with bitumen to waterproof it.

Caulking for a sauna log house

Performed to insulate a log house - sealing cracks between its logs, the material for caulking is traditionally flax tow, red moss, hemp hemp, wool felt. Natural materials for caulking can be replaced with factory-made ones made from jute and flax fibers: flax batting and felts - jute and flax-jute. The advantage of factory-made caulking materials over natural ones is their resistance to moths and fungi, and it is easier to work with factory-made material, since it is produced in the form of a continuous strip of a given thickness and width.

Caulking of a log house is carried out during its assembly - caulking material is laid between the logs during their laying. After the roof is built, full caulking is carried out - from the outside and inside log house, after a year - re-caulking (the log house settles - the logs dry).

The main tools for caulking are a spatula and a mallet; you can make them yourself or purchase ready-made ones. Both of these instruments are made of wood (ash, oak or beech). A caulking shovel looks like a wedge with a handle 200 mm long and a pointed blade 100 mm, the thickness of the handle is 30 mm, the width of the blade at the base is 65 mm, at the end - 30 mm. Wooden mallet It has a round shape: the diameter of the handle is 40 mm, its length is 250 mm, the diameter of the striking part is 70 mm, its length is 100 mm.

Caulking is done in two ways - “set” or “stretched”. The second way to caulk is as follows: we collect the caulking material into a strand, lay it in the gap between the logs and push it there with the help of a spatula, filling the gap completely, without gaps. Then we collect the tow with a roller, apply it to the caulked groove, take out small strands of material from it, wrap them around the roller and drive it into the groove using a spatula and a roller - with force, until you are completely sure that the groove (slot) is filled.

The first method of caulking log houses is designed to cover large grooves (slots). We twist the material for caulking into 2 mm strands, form several loops from them and drive them into the gap. Loops are collected in a quantity sufficient to completely fill the gap.

Rules for caulking:

• First, the material is hammered along the upper edge of the log and only then along the lower edge;
• We begin caulking work from the cracks of the lower crown, on both sides. Then we move to the lower crown of the adjacent wall and so on. Having finished caulking the cracks of the lower crowns, we begin work on the next one in height, moving from this crown to the adjacent one in the nearest wall (from right to left or left to right, it doesn’t matter).

Under no circumstances should you caulk only one wall - it will rise and cause the frame to skew and you will have to disassemble/assemble it again. Let us remind you once again: caulking is done in a “bottom-up” direction along the perimeter of the log house.

Installing a stove

There are many design options for bathhouse stoves; they can be heated with wood, gas, liquid fuel, or use built-in heating elements and heated by electricity; they can be brick, cast iron or metal. Brick kilns in bathhouses they are made with a wall thickness of “half a brick” or “a whole brick”, masonry seams must be bandaged especially carefully, striving for their smallest thickness to achieve the greatest efficiency of the stove. Only red brick is used for laying the stoves. The furnace firebox is led into the dressing room, its remaining three walls are located in the washing room (steam room), and the distance from them to the walls of the washing room must be at least 250 mm - in this case, the heat will not go “into the walls”.

For a cast iron or metal stove, the formation of an independent foundation is not required - only for a brick one.

Heaters installed for those who like to steam are equipped with a chamber containing stones of various weights (from 1 to 5 kg). Rubble, pebbles, boulders and granite are suitable for filling the heater chamber. The design of these furnaces is extremely simple - similar to kitchen stoves, heaters differ from them by having a wider pipe or the presence of a chamber with stones.

To obtain the highest temperature in the steam room, you need to add cast iron pigs to the stones in a percentage ratio of 80:20 (stones: pigs). For every 1 m 3 of steam room you will need at least 6 kg of stones and cast iron pigs.

By maintaining a distance of 40–50 mm in the furnace between its walls and the water heating boiler, the effect of all-round blowing of the boiler with hot gases and rapid heating of the water is achieved.

For better traction you need to remove chimney as close to the roof ridge as possible. When laying a chimney through the attic, be sure to fluff the pipe 380 mm. Remember that the pipe should not pass closer than 150 mm near the roof sheathing and rafters (fire safety standards).

Electricity and water supply for the bathhouse

To wash one bathhouse user, at least 8 liters are required hot water. This amount can be provided in several ways: heat a container of water on a heater, use a gas water heater, or install an electric heater - a boiler. If there is a central water supply, the pipeline to the bathhouse leads from the main house - the water from such a pipeline system must be drained in winter, otherwise it will freeze and burst the pipes.

Water can be taken from a well or well by installing submersible pump for its injection and equipping such a water supply system with purification filters. And in this case, in winter, the water must either be drained after each use of the bathhouse, or the supply pipes must be insulated.

You need to extend an independent line to the bathhouse to supply electricity, and the easiest way is to do it by air (air). For the air supply you will need a special cable - we sweep away the “bare” aluminum right away, focusing on two options: SIP (self-supporting insulated wire) and VVGng. The first type of cable is very good, it has a long service life (more than 30 years), it is durable and does not need to be supported by a supporting cable. But it is extremely difficult to spend time with him installation work, because it is too thick (minimum section - 16 mm 2). Aluminum SIP cannot be pulled through the attic of a bathhouse according to fire safety standards, you need to attach it to special anchor clamps - considering the amount of costs and hassle with its installation, its cost will be expensive.

A simpler solution is air supply with a VVGng copper cable attached to the carrier steel cable. The cable is suspended from the cable on a plastic-insulated wire; its service life is up to 10 years, after which it must be replaced (!). For a single-core VVGng cable (of course, there must be two cores - each of them must be in an independent double braid), pulled over the air to the bathhouse, optimal cross-section will be 2.5 mm 2 - it is not known exactly what electrical equipment the owner of the dacha will want to power from it in the future.

All wiring boxes, sockets and switches, and electrical panels must be for outdoor installation only. According to fire safety rules, it is prohibited to install junction boxes, switches and sockets in the washing/steam room - only in the dressing room. Don't joke about the possibility of a short circuit in wooden building- all internal wiring of the bathhouse must be done only in non-flammable corrugated hose, secured with special clips, cable passage through the partitions - only through steel pipe.

Try to arrange the cables in a junction box, socket or lamp so that they enter from below or from the side, but not from above - a drop of condensate sliding along the braid can cause short circuit.

All electrical appliances must have a moisture protection class of at least IP44 (preferably the maximum - IP54). Install simple lamps- metal body, glass shade only. All connections of the internal cable routing are made only on the terminal block, no twists. And install an RCD in the shield, setting it to 30 mA.

To work in the electrical panel and install an RCD, be sure to invite a qualified electrician if you are not one yourself!

Installation of partitions, ceilings, interior decoration, installation of windows and doors

Internal partitions in the bathhouse can be brick or wood, followed by heat and moisture insulation in both cases. The partition between the washing room and the dressing room, in which the stove is installed, must be made of brick, or there are brick inserts in it, with single brick masonry - on the sides in contact with the stove body.

Interior finishing is usually carried out in cases where the bathhouse itself is built of brick, stone or timber - here the finishing scheme is classic: insulation, vapor barrier film and lining. In addition, when performing external and internal finishing, you will have to rebuild ventilation system baths, because log logs will be covered with cladding and will not be able to provide full ventilation.

The ceiling is formed in two layers - rough and finishing. The rough ceiling is attached to the horizontal roof joists, if necessary reinforced with intermediate beams. Its area is covered with insulation - expanded clay or slag. From inside the washing/steam room rough ceiling insulation and vapor barrier film are attached, after which the ceiling is covered finishing- linden, pine tongue-and-groove board (from 20 mm thick - the thicker the board, the longer it will retain the woody smell).

In the bathhouse you need to install small windows (on average 500x700 mm) and cut them low - enough so that someone sitting on a bench can look out through them. Windows in the bathhouse are always made with double glazing, depending on the size - with a window or completely hinged - for quick ventilation.

Doors in bathhouses must be installed so that they open outward - for fire safety reasons. The material for the door leaves is a tongue-and-groove board (40-50 mm) or a board with a selected quarter; the boards are fastened with dowels. The size of the sashes must be deliberately reduced by 5 mm - more than is needed for the actual distance between the quarters of the jambs - otherwise, when humidity increases, the sashes will swell and it will be difficult to open (close) it. Optimal size the doors in the washing compartment of the bathhouse are 600x1600 mm, in the steam room - 800x1500 mm, with a threshold height of about 300 mm above the floor level (it’s uncomfortable to walk, but it will keep you warm). The hinges for hanging the door leaves are brass, opening into the dressing room (washing room) and into the washing room (steam room). Door handles are wooden (especially in the steam room).

The material for the shelves is linden, pine, poplar or aspen. The minimum length of the shelves is 1800 mm, width - 500–800 mm. The distance between the “floors” of double-row shelves should be at least 350 mm, the minimum distance from the second row to ceiling covering- 1100 mm.

The lying surface is formed by a board with a width of 80 mm, a thickness of 40 mm, and a gap of 15 mm wide is formed between the boards. A distance of 10 mm is maintained from the wall to the shelf. Boards for sheathing shelves are attached to a frame made of timber with a cross-section of 50x70 mm in two ways: from above - using nails, the heads of which are recessed into the wood; from below - using screws. For fastening, choose nails and screws from of stainless steel or copper.

All corners in the shelf structure are rounded, the surfaces are carefully cleaned with zero-grade sandpaper.

For greater convenience, the shelves in the steam room are equipped with a headboard: the height at the beginning of the rise is 30 mm, the length of the headboard is 460 mm, the final highest height- 190 mm.

When choosing material for creating shelves, be careful - it is believed that knotty areas are more dense and can lead to skin burns. Therefore, try to choose boards and timber without any knotty areas or with a minimum number of them.

Fire precautions

Protect the bathhouse premises from the threat of fire - lay a steel sheet in front of the stove firebox, make sure the stove doors are securely fastened, install fire extinguishing means nearby (a container with water, sand and fire extinguishers). Make sure you can open the doors of the steam room and washing room freely when lighting the sauna. Do not block passages or the space in front of doors and windows.

Our ancestors also preferred to build houses in Rus' from wood, and in our time this building material has not lost its relevance. This is determined by the fact that wood is a unique, natural and environmentally friendly material. Most of the wooden buildings were erected by Russian architects without the use of nails, cutting into a bowl. The method received this name because the logs are connected into a single structure. The principle of such a log house is that a recess is cut out in the log that is located below, which has a semicircular shape in the form of a bowl. The top log is placed in this bowl so that the angle is right. A log house built according to this principle is not only durable and warm, but also beautiful.

Construction methods

There are two types of log house construction using the bowl method.

1. "To the region"– another name for Russian felling. The bowl is carved into the lower crown. In most cases it is smooth, but sometimes a small protrusion in the form of a spike is left in the bowl to prevent possible movement. This method was used in the construction of most architectural monuments, preserved to this day.
2. "To the clap" or Siberian felling. In this case, the bowl is cut out at the bottom of the top log, which is laid on top of the bottom log. This is how the construction process takes place.

Experts recommend using Siberian logging when building houses. They explain this by saying that it is more reliable and better protects the log house from moisture and cold. But application modern species thermal and waterproofing, as well as competent thermal engineering calculations can minimize this drawback.

Learning to chop into a Canadian cup with your own hands is not at all difficult if you follow the recommendations of experts. The article provides step-by-step instructions on how to make a log house, its correct size, for example, 6x6 cm, working technology and technique, how to sheathe the structure with this material.

Advantages of constructing a log house using the bowl method.

• This results in a very strong nodal fastening. As a result, the structure is very stable.
• Such houses have a high degree of thermal insulation, since the corners are windproof.
• Houses built this way are environmentally friendly.
• The result is a beautiful and majestic wooden structure.
• No additional finishing is required, since wood itself is a beautiful material.
• The stability of the structure allows the construction of several floors.

If we compare the construction method in a paw and in a bowl, then it is better to use the second method of construction, since it has proven itself with the best side, and this is exactly the method our ancestors built houses.

It is worth noting the disadvantages of the method.

• Only professionals can build houses using this method, as this is quite a complex job that requires professional skills.
• Difficulties arise when exterior decoration log house, since the corners protrude a considerable distance.
• The useful length of the crowns is significantly reduced due to the presence of protruding corners, which leads to a significant increase in the cost of the log house. This disadvantage is the main one when choosing the method of construction in a paw or in a bowl. But a house built using the claw method requires additional thermal insulation, so you won’t be able to save much on this. In addition, a log house built in a paw is not stable enough.

Selection of material for construction

Coniferous materials are used as a building material when constructing a log house using the bowl method. In most cases, pine is chosen for construction, which has an even trunk, uniform in thickness, a small number of defects, and also resistance to rotting. Preference is given to material harvested in the winter season in northern latitudes. This is due to the fact that in winter the tree contains a small amount of sap, so the workpieces crack less when dried.

The building material should have approximately equal dimensions.

The blanks are carefully processed; for this they are sanded and hewn. In order for the log house to be resistant to climatic conditions, they try to orient the material along the growth rings. Material that has thin rings is placed on the outside, and material that has thick rings is placed on the inside.

Thus prepared material is dried, covering it from precipitation. It takes at least six months to dry the material.

Methods of marking

Correct markings play an important role in the construction of a log house. Marking specialists use a tool called a dash. This tool has a handle and two rigid plates, the ends of which are pointed. The distance between the plates changes. Using a line, you can draw two parallel lines.

To mark, two logs are laid on the ground, maintaining parallelism between them. It is necessary that the edge of the third log, which is laid across parallel logs, be positioned so that the distance from the edge of the log to the bowl is at least 25 cm. Check the correct placement of all logs in the crown. To facilitate marking, all logs are connected with staples. If the bowl is cut out in the upper log, the line is moved apart so that the distance between its plates is equal to half the thickness of the lower log.

When working on markings, they try to ensure that one plate of the line is on the upper log, and the second rests on the lower log. To outline the bowl, one leg of the tool touches the arc of the log below, while the other leg traces a parallel line on the log above. This will create the outline of the future bowl. Mark a special semicircular groove along the log so that the logs are in close contact with each other.

In the event that the bowl is cut into a log located below, one plate of the dash outlines the bottom of the log located on top, and the second plate outlines the lower element. The distance between the tool plates is equal to the thickness of the log located on top.

Working with a line requires experience, so traditional marking tools are sometimes used.

The process of assembling a log house using the bottom bowl method.

• To assemble the structure, you first need to prepare the foundation. Waterproofing is laid on the upper surface of the foundation.
• Larch boards are laid on the waterproofing material. These boards are immersed in an antiseptic solution. Then control the horizontality of the laid boards using a level.
• The logs are installed on boards along the sides of the house under construction. Make sure that the distance between them is the same and equal to the length of the transverse log. The length is measured using a tape measure, and the horizontalness is determined using a level.
• After checking the structure using a level, two transverse logs are laid on it.

• The logs are marked using a carpenter's line.
• They begin cutting out the bowl. Cut out the recess using a saw and finish it with an ax or chisel. The bottom of the recess is processed so that it is as smooth as possible, so that when the top element is laid, the gaps are minimal.
• The degree of mating of the logs is checked, after which the top log is removed. Then a semicircular longitudinal groove of small depth is cut out in the lower log. This work is done using a rounded ax.
• After the lower crown is worked out, work on the second crown begins. The logs are laid with butts and maintained horizontally.

• Work is underway on the next crown. The insulation is laid in the longitudinal groove. Currently, jute or linen tapes are used as insulation. In the past, our ancestors used moss for these purposes. To make the top log fit more tightly, tap it with a wooden block. When laying the crowns, care must be taken to ensure that they are horizontal and vertical.
• Using special clamps, the laid crowns are secured in a checkerboard pattern. The clamps are driven into the prepared holes using a sledgehammer. Dowels or “Force” spring units are used as clamps.
• After work on the assembly is completed, all seams are caulked and excess insulation is removed. After about six months, this operation is repeated.
• When all work is completed, all wooden structural elements are antisepticized. This procedure is repeated twice.

• Often a log house is first built on bare ground, and the horizontal position is checked using building level. It is necessary to ensure the horizontal position of the logs laid at the bottom of the log house, using boards of the required thickness.
• If the building material is a rounded log of the same diameter, then it will be convenient to use a template made of tin, which imitates the upper log when working on cutting out a bowl in the lower log. This template will allow you to avoid repeatedly lifting heavy logs during the construction of a log house.

Our portal is replete with examples of the construction and operation of small, or, as they are now commonly called, mini-houses, but usually these are either frame-modular or frame structures. As it turned out, a log is also suitable wall material, especially when the construction concept is environmentally friendly and natural. One of our craftsmen, with the nickname mike099. His topic collected all the stars, which indicates its relevance, so it makes sense to expand the reach of the audience by considering the construction process in stages:

• Eco-hut.
• Preparation.
• Foundation.
• Box.
• Roof.
• Interior work.

Eco-hut only 30 m²

mike099 User FORUMHOUSE

The dream has long crept in about building a wooden house - environmentally friendly, practically without paints, mineral wool, polystyrene foam and other “benefits” of modern industry. The task is to build a solid, comfortable house with minimal effort, suitable for winter raids and year-round residence, therefore, shingles, boulders, mezzanines, Russian stoves and other delights of centuries past were not included in the project.

The craftsman immediately decided on the design:

• Pile foundation.
• Box made of hand-cut logs.
• Metal roofing.
• Sawdust with and sawdust with lime are used as insulation for floors.

Preparation

The preparation stage included clearing the site, digging a well, installing a purchased wooden cabin and toilet, after which the project selection stage began. Initially, the craftsman set his sights on a one-and-a-half-story log house, 8x9 meters, with five rooms, but as he began to think about it, a completely different design emerged. I refused the second floor, even though it was an attic, both due to my reluctance to do staircase fitness, and for other reasons. In addition, with planned stove heating there will be a large temperature difference between levels. Plus, it’s problematic to insulate with sawdust pitched roof, with a ceiling and a cold attic it is much easier. Next, it was the turn of quadrature, and the result of selecting the optimal layout was a project for a 6x6 meter log house, with a set of functional rooms.

The vital meters needed for a comfortable existence were taken into account, as well as savings on operation by reducing heating costs, and the specifics of a dacha - a house for “drinking tea and sleeping.” However, this adjustment in scale led to the abandonment of the planned log cutting into a cup. A six-meter log just fits into the plan, but a seven-meter log is much more expensive, and only a few people work with it. Yes, visually cutting into a cup wins, but the “dovetail” with a crossover is quite functional, and the ends can be covered with platbands.

Foundation

Preference was given to screw piles due to the desire to try an “ultra-modern solution” and save money, as well as due to the speed and relative ease of installation. A total of nine piles were screwed in - three points of support for each load-bearing beam, pile diameter 108 mm, thickness – 4 mm. Despite some problems when installing the piles and the flimsiness of the coating, which is positioned as a durable protective layer, but in fact can be easily removed with a fingernail, the craftsman is satisfied with the choice. Moreover, perhaps the bathhouse will also be placed on stilts, although he admits that a tape or slab “will be more reliable.”

Box

The frame was collected using moss that had been ordered in advance from another region; before installation, the moss was poured out to dry, since when it was delivered it was still fresh and had not dried out much during the two weeks spent waiting in the wings. Making log partitions turned out to be problematic due to the small dimensions of the four-wall, and the cost of the box in this case would have jumped by almost half. Therefore, in one day, the hired team delivered and in another day assembled just a box, and although the moss after assembly hung picturesquely all over the walls, it took significantly less than planned, as practice has shown - they obviously did not report it.

To dry the log house, ventilation holes measuring 30x30 cm were cut out, with gratings. To everyone who is just in the process, mike099 advises making more of them. Curling ( primary caulking cutting the log house with moss) was already working on his own, driving the hanging moss into the voids, cutting off the excess with a stationery knife.

Roof

The craftsman refused the now popular soft tiles for several reasons.

mike099

I rejected the soft roof immediately, due to its less environmental friendliness and higher price. The binders, the basis of soft tiles, are far from natural materials. Its installation is more expensive, and you need a smooth flooring made of OSB or plywood.

Therefore, I preferred metal tiles that imitate the ceramic source. A wide, semicircular ridge, instead of sub-rafter elements there is a central supporting ridge beam. Waterproofing, counter-lattice along the rafters (50×50 mm), lathing with pitch to match the covering profile (35 cm). As planned, the eaves overhangs are 70 cm long; in the future there will be a metal drainage system.

After assembling the frame “under the roof”, I protected the ventilation windows with awnings, and also installed temporary flashings made of waterproofing along the ends, cracks of the flashings and at the junction of the frame and trim. No matter how much I wanted to avoid the use of chemicals, I had to treat the imitation timber gables with protective impregnation.

Interior work

The ceiling was made at the stage of assembling the timber; I wanted to maintain the style, but processing a log now is not a cheap pleasure, just like the log itself. The craftsman replaced the log with a board, 50 mm thick, covering the cracks unedged board 25 mm thick, all lumber was debarked and sanded before installation. To avoid problems when insulating with a mixture of sawdust and clay, two support logs go through the ceiling.

I made some of the openings myself, as specialized companies raised the price tag to unattainable heights.

mike099

The frame was made simple, rough T-shaped: the grooves in the log were marked with a saw, the main cutting was done with a milling cutter. I laid a 50x50 mm dry block with linen tape (insulation) and attached a box of 200x50 mm boards to it with self-tapping screws.

Another relief in favor modern materials – steel door and two plastic windows, wooden Euro windows were installed in the future living quarters. Again, in order to save money, he painted the windows himself, which he regrets - the quality turned out to be lower than the factory quality, and taking into account the cost of consumables, the difference in money is minimal despite the high labor costs.

To increase the heat capacity of the house, I chose a combined stove, brick, with a cast-iron stove, as a compromise between an iron potbelly stove and a Russian stove. Under the furnace, the foundation is 1.7 m deep, reinforcement frame, two m³ of concrete.

As the subfloor dried, it showed cracks; I had to cover them with strips; before adding sawdust, I laid the remaining dry moss as a natural antiseptic.

Before laying, the sawdust was flavored with lime and carefully compacted. Before starting the installation of the finishing floorboard, the craftsman installed communications.

An unpleasant surprise was the strong warping of the floor after drying for just one day and the falling out of knots. The result is the opening of the coating and re-installation, and the reason is the purchase of materials in a hurry, on the market.

The craftsman decided to leave in the first winter with an insulated underground - a metal frame around the perimeter of the base, XPS, 50 mm thick, and horizontally, on the ground, with a slope from the house, also sheets of insulation. The horizontal layer was simply covered back with earth, the lawn on the site was right under the log house, and the base was later lined basement siding under brickwork.

Sanding logs mike099 I did it myself, first using an orbital sander. It turned out to be rather weak, so we replaced it with a grinder, first I used a wheel with 80 grain, the second pass - with 120-150 grain. The vacuum cleaner alone collected 200 liters of waste, but it was worth it.

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