Kitchen countertop must answer the most high requirements. It is made of wear-resistant material, insensitive to heat and resistant to mechanical stress. In this article, FORUMHOUSE users tell and show how to make a countertop.

Concrete surface

Combine impressive appearance and strength is possible in a concrete countertop. There are several options for its manufacture. One is to make formwork and a frame so that later it can be built into the table top hob and a sink. To do this, use tin strips to create an insulated contour that will not contain concrete. Then the homemade base of the product is reinforced and the solution is poured.

Another option is to make a new product based on an old one: it is washed, dried and well polished. Then the aluminum border and corners are attached to the ends using liquid nails. A day after assembling the prepared base, you can pour concrete mixture.

To assemble a concrete countertop, it is better to take a polymer one. cement mixture for self-leveling self-leveling floors. It will create a smooth surface with small pores.

In case they plan from above decorative layer, the concrete mixture is not poured to the top: it should not reach the top edge of the planks by about 10 mm. When the solution is completely dry (after about two days), you can begin decorating - with tiles, marble chips etc.

How to make a kitchen countertop from chipboard and plasterboard

Forum member shurigin replaced the cover kitchen table from laminated chipboard, which could not withstand the dampness in the sink area, into two sheets moisture-resistant plasterboard Giprok, reinforcing them with a mesh. Then I glued the tiles and treated them with sealant in places.

SlobalWS has built a kitchen from scratch several times and knows very well how to make a countertop from scrap materials. Since the prices for finished products were not encouraging, they looked for alternative options. Having thought everything over, I came to the conclusion that it is best to make a tabletop with your own hands, and from these materials: plywood, liquid nails, tiles or porcelain tiles and grout for joints. For the first time, he used 40x50 timber and regular tiles to make a countertop. The tree was attached to the floor metal corners and dowels - to the wall. I put plywood on top, screwing it in with self-tapping screws (flush). Thus, the forum member prepared a flat surface for laying tiles.

Next time, the owner decided to make supports for the table top from light sheets of laminated chipboard. The tabletop also lay on a beam that ran along the perimeter of the wall. I cut 15 mm plywood to size according to my own drawings. Attached with liquid nails. I glued porcelain floor tiles on top (there were no marks left on it from either the drill or the scissors). It was also used to assemble the edging.

Price homemade design : laminated chipboard – 1200 rubles, plywood – 680 rubles, timber – 200 rubles, liquid nails, fasteners and corners – 1300 rubles. TOTAL the product cost 3,380 rubles (excluding the cost of porcelain stoneware).

ANDREUS12 did homemade frame from timber 40x40. Attached it to the walls and floor with screws. Sheets of moisture-resistant plasterboard were placed on the frame. The tiles, cut with a regular tile cutter, were placed on horizontal surfaces with tile adhesive, and on vertical surfaces - with liquid nails. The seams between the drywall were grouted with alabaster, and the seams between the tiles with grout. The surfaces of the homemade product were plastered with putty and sanded for painting. The kitchen countertop was not made quickly, but quite inexpensively: most of the materials - drywall, timber and grout - were left over from other works, only tiles and glue were purchased, he made the drawings himself, “on his knees”.

On our website FORUMHOUSE you can find out what else: the topic contains photographs, installation diagrams and drawings different types countertops, cabinets, kitchen cabinets, tables, etc. Read fascinating comments from our users who have great experience homemade kitchen furniture!

Based on materials from participants of the forum "House and Dacha"

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DIY laminate countertops

Last summer we renovated our kitchen. We did everything ourselves. The cabinets were purchased from IKEA. We wanted to buy 3 solid granite countertops and have them installed.
But the local company set the price at almost 500,000 rubles.

I decided to ditch the granite and make my own countertops. Looking ahead, I’ll say that they cost me only 23 thousand rubles, and in terms of functionality, laminated ones are in no way inferior to granite ones.

Step 1: Materials and Tools

Materials

I couldn't buy pre-made countertops because they come in a fixed depth and we had a peninsula that was too wide to cover with one whole countertop. So I decided to make them all from scratch, using two layers of particle board as a base and laminate sheets glued together with glue.

I purchased:

2 sheets of laminate measuring 120 x 240 cm for 8 thousand rubles,
3 chipboard sheet 1.9 cm thick for 1500 rubles each,
special glue for laminate and chipboard.

Tools

You need a saw for laminate flooring, a hand-held wood router was also used. Cutting was done using circular saw with a new blade designed for cutting laminate materials and a hand saw for cutouts.

I used a file to straighten the corners to 90 degrees. I also found useful the construction trestles I had previously made from plywood.

Step 2: Measure and cut out the top layer

We wanted the countertop to overhang by 3.5cm, so I measured the width exactly and set the slab in place so I could measure the back edge against the wall. It was cut with a handsaw, the table top was removed and the leading edge was marked to 3.5 cm.

All the holes were marked here too - I had to place the sink on one countertop and the cooktop on the other.

Then I drilled holes with a drill and cut out the openings for the sink and backsplash using a handsaw. You can use my instructions* and combine a drill and hand saw on wood to make holes.

*I used a strip of plywood as a guide to make sure all the ends were as straight as possible.

Step 3: Bonding the Two Layers

Using only one at first particle board, I made the countertops two layers thick. I used wood glue and a nail gun to connect them together.

It was possible to initially glue two plates together, and only then cut out all the holes. I made it so that all the markings could be done using one light slab, rather than a full-fledged tabletop.

Step 4: Creating the Bottom Notch

Notches were made on all the bottom edges of the tabletop using a V-chisel. This was done so that if something was spilled, the liquid would reach the recess and drip onto the floor, rather than flow onto the cabinets.

I don't know if this is standard practice - I haven't seen it on other countertops, but it only took me a few minutes to do it.

Step 5: Laminating the Edges

After cutting 5cm wide strips of the laminate long enough, I applied glue to the chipboard and laminate and left for 10 minutes until the layer was dry to the touch.

You'll need a partner to help you stay on track. correct height, but do not allow it to touch the chipboard. Stick to the edge you're holding, and after making sure you leave a margin at the top and bottom, carefully press the rest of the strip down. It will be more convenient to press with your entire palm, smoothing the strip from one edge to the other.

After that, I took a router with a wood bit installed on it, and set it so that the bit was 2 mm away from the edge of the chipboard, and trimmed off the excess laminate.

If your ends are not so even, then a router will not work here, and you will have to use a file. This takes a long time because laminate is quite hard, but start by cutting it as close to the edge as possible with a saw and then slowly work it down with a file.

Step 6: Surface Lamination

The top was more difficult to make only because it is quite bulky, plus I had two huge surfaces for gluing. The way to deal with this is to use small strips of plywood to separate the surfaces until you are ready to compress them.

If you're unsure about the gluing process, an easy way to practice is to try gluing laminated or glossy paper to plywood. Personally, I experimented with this in advance and was convinced that creating a tabletop would not be very challenging task.

Apply glue to both surfaces, then place a strip every 15 cm on the particle board. Placed a sheet of laminate over these strips, then leveled everything out. I pulled out a strip of plywood and leveled the laminate - the surfaces instantly stuck together.

I continued the process, alternately removing the strips and squeezing the surfaces. I was able to avoid any air bubbles, which I think has more to do with the fact that this gluing method is for beginners rather than my having any experience with this kind of work (it was my first time doing this, after all).

Step 7: Cutting the Hole and Trimming the Excess

I cut out the laminate where the cutouts were and trimmed the whole thing using hand router. I covered bottom side countertops with special oil to protect them from moisture.

Step 8: Installation

Since we had already tried the countertops on site, installation was simple - I set them in position and screwed them to the cabinets underneath the countertops. To install the sink, place the countertop upside down on top of the upside down sink on a soft surface and insert the sink.

Once the countertop is installed, this will be much more difficult.

Seal the edges adjacent to the walls silicone sealant and everything is ready. This work is surprisingly simple if you have experience making things with your own hands, and you do everything carefully and slowly. If you have any questions, I will be happy to answer them.

How to make a simple one desk laminated plywood

There are very few furniture projects on which you can “hone” your initial knowledge in carpentry and, at the same time as the learning process, have a reward ready product quite decent quality. Today we offer you just such a “training” option - you will receive a decent desk as a reward. The table has only four parts; there are no pull-out bedside tables or cabinets. This is not a problem, don't be upset. Once you gain experience, you can always add to it everything necessary to improve comfort additional elements. Although we like it anyway, simplicity is the key to genius.

Preparation of materials and tools

Now it’s worth telling what you need to have to make our table. To your pleasant surprise - quite a bit. First, you will need a sheet laminated plywood. You can work with ordinary plywood, but after completing the preparation work on the parts, you will have to varnish them in two or three layers. Not everyone likes this work, and not everyone can do it with the required level of quality. The thickness of the plywood is from 12 millimeters; to connect the parts together, use confirmats or minifixes. Working with minifixes is quite difficult; therefore, we do not insist on using these hardware even for fastening the tabletop.

We understand that such recommendations somewhat violate the generally accepted rules of the furniture industry, but all this is done for the sake of beginners. There is no point in risking their initial enthusiasm; let them gain “working experience” and begin to receive satisfaction from the results of their work, and only after that can you gradually complicate the technological operations.

You can cut the workpieces manually circular saw. When handled skillfully, this tool produces such an even cut that it is indistinguishable from a machine cut. You can also cut with an electric jigsaw, but it takes a long time and the quality is significantly worse. Electric jigsaw use when cutting curved profiles, but our desk does not have such parts.

It is better to finish the edges with U-profile plastic tape. This tape is quite technologically advanced to use, but this is not its main advantage. The main advantage can be considered that, due to its features, the tape can hide quite large uneven edges, and beginners always “sin” with this. Especially when working with laminated plywood. Cutting it without chipping is not so easy; we’ll tell you how to do it below. But not only advice can always help; you also need good practice in performing such work.

Preparation of parts

On transferring drawings from paper to plywood There is no need to stop; we hope that you will be able to draw several parallel lines. Just remember to make gaps on the cut map for the saw to pass through. But it’s worth looking at the process of cutting laminated plywood in more detail.

If possible, make several test cuts on the plywood. The fact is that each sheet of laminated plywood has its own characteristics depending on the manufacturer, production technology, thickness of the laminate layer, number and thickness of veneer sheets, wood type, etc. We cannot give universal recommendations without knowing all these characteristics, We give you only a general algorithm of actions that must be followed in all cases. A trial cut will give you the opportunity to choose optimal mode sawing, you can choose the cutting speed, type of saw, blade angle. In addition, practically check how the laminate “behaves” during cutting.
The saw teeth should always hit the laminate from above, rather than undermining it from below. This mandatory condition, laminated plywood cannot be cut immediately; you need to make several passes, each time increasing the depth of cut. The number of passes must be at least three. Perfect option- a field of two passes on one side of the plywood, it needs to be turned over and continued cutting with reverse side. Thus, the likelihood of chipping is minimized.

There are cases that despite all attempts, the laminate continues to chip and the edge takes on a very unsightly appearance. This may be due to the low quality of the laminate coating or to violations of the manufacturing technology of laminated plywood. The situation is quite unpleasant, but not tragic. You can solve the problem with a sharp shoe knife. Using it, cut through the laminate manually, the thickness of the cuts should be equal to the thickness of the laminate, this is ideal. If it is difficult for you to follow this recommendation, then make the cut depth to at least half the thickness of the sheet. We understand that the cutting time will increase significantly, but we cannot recommend any other way out of the difficult situation.

Preparing table elements for assembly

All visible cut edges must be sanded and covered with decorative plastic edge P-profile. We have already told you about the advantages of such decoration. By price plastic tape somewhat more expensive than usual, but these are small things compared to its advantages. Place the profile on liquid nails or special glue, immediately remove all excess, do not let it dry out. Those places that will be used to fasten individual parts into a single structure must be as level as possible, the cutting angle must be exactly 90°. In order for the assembly of parts to go “without a hitch”, you need to carefully mark seats hardware.

Table assembly

To begin, secure the legs to the sides. In the drawing you offer ordinary plastic stops, but you can choose your own wheels - very convenient option. You need to start assembling the table from the sides and spacers, this way you will have a stable frame for attaching the tabletop. Drill the holes carefully, keep in mind that it is impossible to correct the mistake made; you will have to change the mounting location. But this is not always possible and always undesirable. During assembly, constantly check the corners of the table, do not tighten the fasteners immediately, first “fasten” all the components.

RUB 3,500

RUB 2,800

1,000 rub.

830 rub.

450 rub.

RUB 4,800

215 RUR

850 rub.

RUB 1,650

RUB 1,600

1,000 rub.

3,000 rub.

430 rub.

Amateur sports can not only diversify your leisure time, but also bring health benefits. Currently, the hobby of ping pong is very popular among children and adults. If you want to master this game, you need to take care of having a specialized tennis table, making it yourself will help you save a decent amount of money.

How to make a ping pong table with your own hands

Currently, there is a wide range of ping pong table models on the market, however, a homemade table can compete with most of them. The designs of such products are simple and do not require the use of complex technological techniques. A pre-purchase quality materials will make it possible to produce a product suitable for use both at home and in street conditions.

Before you start making such a table, you need to decide which design will be more acceptable for you. Ping-pong tables can be folding or stationary. Last option the best way suitable for street installation.

And folding models allow you to save money usable space when the game becomes irrelevant. When deciding in advance where the table will be installed, you should remember that there should be enough space around it for players to move freely. The area of such space should be 5x8 m.

The flooring deserves special attention. It is advisable to give preference to a solid and smooth anti-slip option. A floor made of bitumen or concrete is excellent for this purpose. No less effective wooden flooring installed on a level and solid surface.

Tabletop dimensions

In accordance with standards accepted throughout the world, classic table for ping pong should have a length of 2740 mm and a width of 1525 mm, with standard height from the floor 760 mm. However, it is possible to make a table with other dimensional characteristics, taking into account individual requirements and the area of the space expected for its installation. For teenagers, the height of such a product can be from 600 to 700 mm. The dimensions of the mini-table are 2440x12200 mm, and in some cases even 110x61 mm. The thickness of the tabletop of such a product used within a club, according to generally accepted standards, should be 22 mm, while for a professional game you will need a tabletop with a thickness of 25 to 28 mm. And for amateur tennis, a slab with a thickness of 16–19 mm is quite suitable.

What materials can be used for manufacturing

When choosing materials for a table made by yourself, you can choose sheet plywood, OSB and chipboard. Each of them will be able to provide required height the rebound of a standard ball dropped from a height of 30 cm is equal to 23 cm, as specified in generally accepted standards.

Plywood

Currently, there is a wide range of plywood sheets on the market, corresponding to the following sizes:

1525 x 1525 mm;
1525 x 1300 mm;
1525 x 1475 mm;
1475 x 1474 mm.

From this material you can make a folding tabletop consisting of two halves by cutting to a given size on only one side. In addition, the plywood surface does not require additional processing, which will save time and money. However, when purchasing plywood sheets, it is advisable to give preference to goods of grades I and II with the marking “Ш1”, indicating the presence of a polished surface and sufficient moisture resistance.

A tabletop made of plywood has a number of disadvantages, one of which is its sagging. It is for this reason that this material is best used in the manufacture of non-dismountable tables on a rigid box-shaped base equipped with struts. Boards are perfect for making such a support. To fasten the plywood tabletop to the base, you can use self-tapping screws installed along the contour of the product in increments of 100–150 mm. In this case, it is advisable to putty their heads.

Another disadvantage of the plywood table is the sluggish, albeit correct, rebound of the ball. Painting the surface of the countertop will help correct the situation. acrylic paint on water based, applied in 2–3 layers. This treatment will simultaneously enhance the moisture resistance of the product. However, before applying a layer of paint, it is necessary to impregnate the plywood sheets with a water-polymer emulsion on both sides.

Chipboard

When choosing a particle board to make a ping-pong table, pay attention to its following dimensions, which are optimal for such a product:

2750 x 1830 mm;
2750 x 1750 mm;
2750 x 1500 mm

The quality of this material largely depends on the brand of the manufacturer, but in general it is quite capable of satisfying existing requirements. By purchasing a sheet with dimensional characteristics of 2750x1500 m, you are buying an almost ready-made tabletop suitable for stationary structure. In this case, you can choose a laminated sheet of blue or Green colour which will eliminate the need for painting.

This material, with a thickness of 16 mm, is very heavy, which is ideal for making a strong and massive tennis table. If you need to adjust the dimensional characteristics of a chipboard sheet, you can use the services of material sellers who can trim it in accordance with the dimensions you specified, as well as perform trimming. Purchasing chipboard will cost more than purchasing plywood sheets, however, the durability of this material is higher.

Laminated plywood

When creating ping pong tables with your own hands, you can also use laminated plywood, which eliminates the possibility of deformation during use. This material, made on the basis of waterproof birch plywood, is non-flammable and also resistant to a number of mechanical damage. Melamine is used as a laminate in the production of such products with subsequent processing. In addition, laminated plywood has a rich color scheme, which will also help save on painting. Standard sizes sheets will allow you to make both solid and folding tabletops.

High-quality plastic is used as an edge for this material, however, the material itself is not at all tiny. The field boundary line can be drawn using masking tape, and the demarcation lines are best done with acrylic paint, which will not be erased throughout long period time. The tennis table, made of laminated plywood, can be placed under open air. During the game, the rebound of the ball from the surface of such a table will be ideal. The cost of this material cannot be classified as cheap, however, the money spent will correspond high level quality of your future table.

Fiberglass

Another one of universal materials, which can be useful in the production of tabletops for ping pong, is fiberglass, sheets of which can be purchased at specialized construction stores. When choosing, it is advisable to give preference to sheets 10 mm thick, the color of which can be any. Built on application modern technologies, fiberglass has enviable strength and low weight. A table equipped with such a tabletop will be all-weather, since the material is designed for use in a wide temperature range. Products made from it are insured against rotting processes, and are also distinguished by enviable resistance to mechanical damage and deformation. One of the features of this material is also its non-flammability. The cost of fiberglass is quite high, but completely justified taking into account the listed qualities.

Composite aluminum

In some cases, aluminum is used to make ping pong tables. These tabletops correspond to the characteristics of semi-professional tables, the thickness of which is 22 mm. Externally, this material resembles pressed chipboard and can be used outdoors without fear of deformation and mechanical damage. There is a myth that the bounce noise level from aluminum tables is quite high. However, this is a misconception. Such all-weather tables are very practical and can fully satisfy the expectations of their owners. Material cost in in this case very acceptable, however, such a table will still cost more than a product equipped with a plywood tabletop.

Fixed ping pong tables intended for outdoor installation are best made from all-weather materials that can withstand changes weather conditions. However, as protection from precipitation, preventing the surface of the tabletop from getting wet, you can use a moisture-repellent tent material or durable rolled polyethylene.

Drawings and step-by-step instructions for making ping-pong tables with your own hands

Model of a table intended for indoor use

To make a wooden tennis table with your own hands, the model of which is best suited for indoor installation, you will need the following materials:

board 25 x 100, length 1050 mm - 6 pcs.;
board 30 x 100, length 2200 mm - 2 pcs.;
timber 50 x 50, length 750 mm (for legs) – 6 pcs.;
block 30 x 50, length 850 mm (for underbench) – 4 pcs.;
adjustable furniture leg - 4 pcs.;
M8 studs or bolts, length 120–125 mm - 12 pcs.;
M8 nuts and washers – 24 sets;
wood screws;
sandpaper.

In this case, it would be advisable to prepare in advance such tools as:

hacksaw;
chisel;
screwdrivers;
drill or screwdriver;
drill with a diameter of 8 mm;
open-end wrenches 12 x 13 mm;
marking tool (pencil, tape measure, carpenter's square).

The proposed design option for a ping pong table consists of a tabletop made according to the specified dimensions,

three support legs

and two longitudinal bars.

The parameters of each of the parts are similarly indicated in the drawings.

Initially, you need to prepare the tabletop canvas, as well as create everything necessary details, based on the information indicated in the drawings. In this case, the grooves located on the longitudinal beam and having a cross-section of 50x100 mm must fit as tightly as possible into the mating grooves located on the support legs.
Then the support legs should be assembled. To do this, adjustable furniture legs should be attached to bars with a cross-section of 50x50 mm, specially designed for them, using nuts and studs.
Afterwards, it is necessary to assemble the frame, which involves inserting longitudinal bars into the grooves of the legs from above.
After completing this stage, it is necessary to securely attach the bars with a cross-section of 30x50 mm to the tabletop using self-tapping screws.
We install the tabletop on the resulting frame, fixing its position relative to the longitudinal bars. You can use bolts as fasteners, having previously drilled the longitudinal bars together with bars with a section of 30x50, or self-tapping screws.

After completing the work, you will receive something like this finished product.

Collapsible tennis table model

To create another version of a collapsible model of a tennis table with your own hands, you will need:

Sanded plywood 1525x1525x12 mm - 2 pcs.
Edged timber 50x50x3000 mm - 5 pcs.
Metal brackets for attaching legs - 4 pcs.
Self-tapping screws 5x89 – 38 pcs.
Self-tapping screws 3.5x49 – 45 pcs.
Bolts for attaching brackets to legs - 4 pcs.
Antiseptic for wood.
Wood putty, enamel for painting tabletops (matte green, or blue, black).
Aerosol enamel white
And the following tools:
Hacksaw.
Welding machine.
Drill, iron drills.
Spatula, roller, paint brush.
In this case, the manufactured table will correspond to the following dimensional characteristics:
Table height from flooring to the grid - 760 mm.
The length of the table cover is 2740 mm.
The width of the table cover is 1525 mm.

And in the presented drawing you can also familiarize yourself with the parameters of the installed grid.

This design assumes the presence of an easily removable tabletop, which requires special brackets that allow for quick disassembly of the table and will act as reliable fastenings. For people who are far from working with metal, similar products can be ordered from locksmith shops.

Assembly

After marking the beams, you need to assemble support frame, securing it with self-tapping screws.
Then we mount brackets to the corners of the frame, which can stretch and hold the corners of the frame.
Now you need to adjust the existing legs to the fastenings by removing excess wood. However, it is necessary to create conditions for inserting an additional plate, the task of which will be to distribute and increase the tension from the bolt. Since the brackets will be made by hand, each of them will have slight differences. For this reason, each of the stands used will have to exactly match the parameters of its socket. To avoid confusion, it is advisable to number the legs and brackets.
Then you should install the timber in the nests and bolt it to the brackets. After this, you can put the resulting platform on legs that are tightly screwed to the frame.
We create holes the size of which allows you to install the heads of the hardware flush with the surface of the slab.
We disassemble the resulting structure, after which we screw a lid equipped with ready-made holes for self-tapping screws to the frame located on the floor.

Painting

Drawing of a folding table tennis table model

Among table tennis fans, folding table models are especially popular, allowing you to start playing even in the absence of a partner. You can make such a table with your own hands, based on the drawing provided below.

However, in this drawing, the stacked tabletop is made of boards, which is not very successful and practical option. As a material for its manufacture, you can use plywood or any other option described in this article. This will eliminate the need to install additional fastening lines, without compromising the strength of the structure.

To create such a model of a ping pong table, you can use wooden elements. However, more simple solution will be the creation of a frame using corners made of steel or duralumin. In this case, it is better to weld the steel corners, and to fasten the duralumin elements, use screws with triangular scarves made of metal, the thickness of which is from 2 to 2.5 mm.

To provide the frames with the required rigidity, it is advisable to strengthen them with transverse bars made from corners. To connect the frames, you can use piano hinges or regular hinges, which should be recessed into the panels. Holes must be made in the side surfaces of the frames for attaching table legs and platform struts.

The platform is based on:

four struts,
four furniture casters,
two supports,
two carts.

The trolleys are made from boards with a thickness of 20 to 25 mm. To create struts you will need boards 60 mm wide and 20 mm thick. And the base should be made of boards 90 mm wide and 20 mm thick. Furniture casters can be selected and purchased in specialized stores.

For the legs you will need 80x20 mm boards. Their fastening to the frame must be hinged, made using bolts with wing nuts. This will allow you to fold them if necessary.

The holes for the bolts should be marked on the legs by drawing center lines along each of them.
It is advisable to strengthen the upper parts of the legs with metal plates, and equip the holes with bushings for more reliable fixation.
To level the playing field, it is recommended to install thrust bearings on each of the legs. To do this, use an M-10 or M12 nut and grind a bolt for it.
Then you need to press it into the leg of the structure and screw in the bolt.
The legs must be fastened in pairs with 60x20 mm strips.
And then install the countertop made from the material of your choice. Self-tapping screws or long screws can be used as fasteners.
Paint the countertop desired color, then mark the playing field.

Features that need to be taken into account when making legs for a tennis table

Tennis tables intended for outdoor use are best constructed without the use of adjustable furniture legs. When installed on the ground, such legs will get stuck in it, and when installed on a paved surface, they do not have enough adjustment limit. The best material during production supporting structure in this case there will be metal. A structure equipped with such legs will stand firmly on the ground and can be leveled by simply pressing the legs into the soil. This best option for a folding table.

In some cases, it is very advisable to make the base of the table in the form of a “goat” made of wooden beam, With additional installation two beams or boards on top to prevent the tabletop from sagging.

Design of support "goats"

The sizes of the trestles can be any, provided that their overall width should be approximately 300 m less than the width of the table top.

To calculate the height of the “goat”, a formula is used according to which the thickness of the tabletop slab should be subtracted from 760 mm, and then the height of the timber placed under it should be subtracted.

For street tennis tables Other types of bases are also used.

Making a table yourself is not too difficult a task. Properly selected materials and tools will help make your dream come true, eliminating the need for large expenses. Exciting ping pong activities will help you maintain a great physical fitness and will bring a lot of positive emotions to people of different ages.

Table made of laminated plywood from the ByALEX studio. How to make a reliable and practical ping pong table with your own hands Plywood table top