Growing watermelon in greenhouse conditions. How to grow watermelons in a polycarbonate greenhouse, planting and care, formation diagram When to pick a watermelon in a greenhouse

Juicy sweet watermelons and soft fragrant melons - who doesn't love this taste of summer? But in order for these melon crops to please you with a truly tasty harvest at the end of the season, you need to have an idea of ​​​​the agricultural technology of their cultivation. Pinching plants plays a significant role here. Today you will learn how to properly pinch watermelons and melons, and whether this procedure is even necessary for sweet ones. melons(attached are photos and a video diagram of this process).

Do I need to pinch watermelons and melons?

Watermelons (melons) – quite exotic berries who love warmth and best harvests given specifically in warm climates. If it is not, preference should be given to growing in greenhouse conditions. In order for watermelons and melons to take root on the site and produce a rich harvest, it is necessary not only to know, but also to follow all the rules for growing these crops.

The most important thing in successful cultivation watermelons - high-quality and timely care, as well as correct pinching. True, if the cultivation of melons is carried out in closed ground, you can try to do without this procedure.

To get large watermelons, you need to pinch the vines

Despite the fact that many consider pinching berries from the melon family to be a harmful and unnecessary process, with its help you can achieve maximum yield.

Advice. If you want to speed up the process of fruit ripening, as well as maximize their taste, or if you are a resident of cold northern regions, be sure to use the pinching procedure.

Scheme for pinching melons (berries)

The process of pinching melons is quite simple, but it requires a certain amount of attention and accuracy. More on this later.

Pinching a watermelon

Before you start pinching watermelons, remind yourself that this crop grows on a central stem (this will help you avoid losses during harvest). Remember also that important role When growing watermelons/melons, climate plays a role. So, the process of pinching a watermelon is as follows:

Advice. If you are new to gardening or are trying to grow watermelons/melons on your plot for the first time, try experimenting in the first year: after planting several plants during their active growth try pinching each of the watermelon groups different ways. During the harvest period, you will be able to evaluate the result and next year use the optimal scheme from your point of view.

Pinching a melon

The formation of a melon is carried out in a radically opposite way, since the formation of fruits occurs exclusively on the side shoots. And this means that you need to pinch the main one.

The main stem must be pruned at the level of the third pair of leaves, immediately after the appearance of sufficiently strong side shoots.

Advice. You should not leave too many shoots on the melon vine: 2-3 on each side is enough. This will be enough for complete pollination of the plant in the future.

Control the number of ovaries formed: it is enough to leave only one under each shoot. When the fruits have grown sufficiently (to the size of an average apple), it is necessary to slightly shorten the tops of the side shoots to several leaves above the formed fruit.

Pinching a melon

If you have planted enough large-fruited variety, make sure that the plant is regularly monitored. During the period of active appearance of ovaries on the plant, carefully monitor their number. If extra ovaries appear at a time when you are no longer expecting them (this means specimens in excess of the norm), in mandatory remove them. They will not bear fruit, but will take away a lot of vitality from the plant.

If you got a little carried away and removed too many leaves during the formation of the plant, you can correct the situation by carefully pinching the shoots above the fruits, thus provoking the active growth of new leaves.

This concludes our consideration of the features of the formation of melon bushes. The above information will tell you how not to harm the plant, but to help it accelerate its growth. Good luck!

Growing watermelons: video

Among the crops grown in the greenhouse, watermelon takes pride of place. It is cultivated in a greenhouse not on a production scale. Agricultural technology in this case also differs from the cultivation technique in open ground. The greenhouse method will allow you to get a harvest of sweet berries not only in the southern regions, but also in Siberia. The main thing is to create a plant the necessary conditions. One of the important points is proper gartering of watermelons. In this article we will tell you how to tie up watermelons in a greenhouse and pay attention to the intricacies of harvesting.

The nuances of growing watermelons in greenhouses

Tie watermelons in a greenhouse to increase crop yield.

The summer resident needs to endure certain requirements so that watermelons bear fruit in a greenhouse:

• choose a variety with a minimum ripening period and low fruit weight;
• only plant watermelons in a greenhouse seedling method;
• properly prepare greenhouse beds;
• accurately maintain the timing of planting watermelons in greenhouse soil;
• carefully follow the requirements for caring for watermelons in greenhouses.

The agricultural technology for growing watermelon in a greenhouse is not particularly complicated, but it is necessary to tie up the fruits.

Choosing a greenhouse for growing watermelons

You can grow watermelons in greenhouses from:

• polycarbonate;
• window frames (used);
• film coating.

Requirements for a room for growing watermelons:

1. The height varies from 1.7 m to 2 m. It is not recommended to install the greenhouse lower or higher. Watermelon is a climbing plant, so it must have enough space to grow.
2. The greenhouse is prepared for growing watermelons in early spring. Inspect for structural integrity violations or breakdowns. Necessary measures precautions in case of frost or sudden cold snap.
3. In the northern regions, the arrangement of warm ridges is mandatory. This protects the heat-loving crop from overcooling the root system.
4. Greenhouses with additional heating devices are convenient for growing watermelons. In this case, temperature control is simplified.
5. For melon crops, a separate greenhouse is allocated to ensure favorable conditions for growing watermelons. Read also the article: → "".
6. Be sure to disinfect the frame and soil with a solution of copper sulfate or Bordeaux mixture to avoid infection of watermelons with fungal diseases.

Reasons for tying watermelons in greenhouses

It is necessary to tie watermelons in a greenhouse due to the specific development of the plant:

1. The fruits develop and reach great weight. They are located on long vines, and the space in greenhouses is limited. Therefore, only vertical placement of branches is possible.
2. If the garter is incorrect, the branches of watermelons break under the weight of the fruit. This threatens crop loss and plant death.
3. High air humidity is contraindicated for watermelons. Without tying the fruits, it is impossible to properly ventilate.
4. The garter method is chosen depending on the type of watermelon and the structure of the greenhouse.
5. Fruit tying mitigates the extreme growing conditions for watermelons in a greenhouse.
6. This technique prevents thickening of watermelon beds in the greenhouse and increases the crop yield. Read also the article: → "".

Methods for tying cucumbers in greenhouses

There are quite a few options for securing fruits:

1. Trellis. The optimal way to tie watermelons in a greenhouse. They are vertical supports for plants. The design of the trellis is modified with the help of shelves and plastic devices. The supports are made of metal or wood. A wire or mesh made of plastic or metal is pulled between the supports. Trellis can be purchased at a store chain or you can use the side walls of an old disassembled greenhouse.
2. Arches. They are located along the length of the greenhouse, watermelons are tied around the perimeter.
3. Using grids. Nets are used for tying fruits that have reached the size of a large apple or larger to trellises.
4. Manual tying of fruits to a trellis without additional equipment.
5. Stands for watermelons made of plastic, scrap materials.
6. Clips Use ready-made devices or hand-made ones in combination with trellises.

Timing and scheme for gartering watermelons in greenhouses

The first garter of the vine is carried out 2 weeks after planting the seedlings in the greenhouse bed. The trellises are placed at a distance of 40 cm from one another. It is optimal that the length of the lash is at least 1 meter. With this size of the lash, it is convenient to spread the vine on the ground. Following actions:

1. At a distance of 50 cm from the root, the stem is bent to the ground and sprinkled with soil. New roots will form in the place where the powder is applied, which will provide the watermelon with additional nutrition.
2. The formation of the plant is carried out when the fruit reaches the size of a chicken egg.
3. The shoot is pinched above the 5th leaf after the fruit.
4. 2-4 fruits are left on one vine, depending on the size of the variety.
5. Watermelons are formed into one vine to provide the plants with sufficient lighting and ventilation.
6. Shoots on which ovaries have not formed are pinched, and the rest, even with fruits, are removed.
7. The remaining fruits on the stem are hung in a convenient way to prevent them from falling.

Tip #1. Be sure to carry out the formation of the plant, otherwise all the fruits set on the stem will not ripen.

Features of methods for tying watermelons in a greenhouse

Hanging techniques differ in their advantages and disadvantages:

Method name	Advantages	Flaws
Tying nets to trellises	Reusable nets. The fruits are protected from rotting and fungal infections. Uniform lighting and ripening of watermelons.	The need for the construction of capital trellises, which increases the cost of time and money. Large-fruited varieties require larger nets.
Wooden or plastic stands.	The construction of capital structures is not required. The twines are tied to the ceiling of the greenhouse. Useful devices such as buckets and boxes are suitable for stands. A convenient option for low-lying fruits.	Boxes clutter up the greenhouse space and impair movement between beds. When the fetus is located high, durable stands are required. Scourges thicken the beds and reduce ventilation and lighting.
Clips.	Durability and ease of adaptation. Reusable. Ability to direct the escape movement effortlessly.	When securing, it is necessary to take into account the growth of the shoot in width. Otherwise, the lash will be pinched and nutrients will not reach the fruit.
Carton boxes	Availability of material.	Difficulty in attaching to trellises. It is inconvenient to monitor the development of fruits.
Manual tying		Large time costs for carrying out the garter. Risk of damage to the shoot if tying is performed incorrectly

Tip #2. When hanging watermelons using nets, make sure that the stem does not bend, otherwise the nutrition of the fetus will be disrupted.

Tying watermelons in open ground

Leave the optimal amount of fruit on the plant so that the watermelons develop fully.

In what cases is fruit tying required in open ground:

1. In areas with stagnant moisture. In this case, the suspended fruits are protected from rotting processes.
2. In low light conditions. Tying will reduce the density of plants and provide the fruits with access to the right amount of light.
3. Lack of space. In small plots it is convenient to grow melons using trellises.
4. The area where watermelon is grown is adjacent to tall trees. Tying will improve ventilation of the beds.

When growing watermelons in open ground on trellises, leave one vine on which 3-5 fruits have formed. The remaining lashes are pinched, and the top of the fruiting shoot is removed when the fruit reaches a size of 20 cm in diameter. The method of growing watermelons on a trellis in open ground is optimal for the middle zone regions.

The nuances of pinching a watermelon vine after tying it

Use the technique of tying watermelons in open ground, especially if there is a shortage of space

The pinching process requires strict adherence to the rules so as not to harm the development of plants. Gardeners need to remember that:

1. The stepsons pinch off without touching or injuring the main stem.
2. Do not leave more than two vines on one plant.
3. On one bush, 2-5 ovaries are left for growth. The quantity depends on the type of watermelon.
4. The ovaries are cut off at an early stage of formation.
5. If there are no ovaries on the shoot, it is removed.
6. After the first ovary, the shoot is pinched over the second leaf.
7. Pinching continues until the fruit begins to grow. It will not be carried out in the future. Read also the article: → "".

Activities for growing watermelon in a greenhouse before tying

At this point, pollination of the crop is important. For growing in a greenhouse, they choose self-pollinating varieties. If this is not possible, then it is necessary to provide conditions for pollination.

Mistakes gardeners make when tying watermelons in a greenhouse

When tying watermelons in greenhouses, summer residents make mistakes:

Errors in agricultural technology	Consequences
Nets are used for tying, without taking into account the size of the fruit of the variety	As the fruit develops and grows, the mesh digs into the shoots of the plant and prevents the flow of nutrients. IN difficult cases cuts the vine and leads to the destruction of the crop.
They do not form a plant.	If you leave an excess of fruits on the plant, they do not ripen on time or remain small.
They leave not one lash on the plant, but several.	When grown in a greenhouse, this leads to thickening of the plantings and poor ventilation. Plants do not receive enough light and air, develop poorly, and productivity decreases.
Watermelons are planted in the same greenhouse with other crops.	Cannot create optimal conditions for the development of watermelons.
Watermelons are grown in greenhouses below 1.7 meters	It is impossible to properly tie the long vines of the plant to the trellises due to the small distance from the ground.

Questions from summer residents about tying and growing watermelons in a greenhouse

Question No. 1. What measures after tying up watermelons when grown in a greenhouse will help preserve the harvest?

The following operations must be performed regularly:

• turn the fruit from one side to the other towards the sun;
• ventilate the room;
• Carefully cut ripe fruits, and do not pick them with your hands.

And one more nuance - harvest no earlier than a 4-day break after watering.

Grow watermelons in seedlings in greenhouses, which will increase yield and speed up the ripening of fruits.

Question No. 2. How often do you need to pinch watermelon vines after tying them?

This procedure is done weekly, leaving no more than 2-4 fruits on the shoot.

Question No. 3. Watermelons have few leaves. Is it possible to improve the situation?

Pinch the shoot above the fruit. This technique will stimulate the growth of leaves.

Question No. 4. Is it necessary to remove the side shoots on watermelons and leave one vine?

Side shoots must be removed. If you leave them on the plant, be sure to dig them up to give the watermelon additional nutrition.

Question No. 5. What point of agricultural technology for watermelons in a greenhouse is important along with tying?

All points are important. But it must be remembered that watermelons are grown in a greenhouse only in seedlings, in order to give the fruits enough time to ripen.

Melons demanding on soil composition, humidity and air temperature. Deep root system can't stand loved ones groundwater, begins to rot. Late frosts, which are not uncommon in regions with cold climates, will leave seedlings no chance of survival.

A rainy summer won't ruin the harvest, but will affect taste. The fruits will be unsweetened and watery. When growing watermelons and melons in greenhouses, the listed problems can be avoided.

Which greenhouse to choose?

The frame and covering material can be anything. So, growing Melons and watermelons in a polycarbonate greenhouse are finding more and more supporters. They also feel comfortable under cheap film.

It is worth paying attention to only a few points.

• the greenhouse must be high. Ideally, at least two meters. Shoots of watermelons and melons, tied to trellises, rise high;
• prevent the penetration of cold air. The structure should not have cracks, cracks, rupture of covering material;
• exclude the development of fungal diseases (melons and melons are especially sensitive to them).

  In the spring, disinfect the frame and soil in the greenhouse with Bordeaux mixture or copper sulfate solution.

Do we need “neighbors”?

To prevent the greenhouse from standing idle waiting for the right temperature to create melons, you can sow early greens or radishes in it. Precursors will not harm watermelons and melons. Melons will develop well next to drought-resistant, light-loving tomatoes, eggplants.

Moisture-loving cucumbers and bell peppers will not better neighbors. Adherents of hot, dry climates, watermelons and melons suffer from diseases (powdery mildew, angular spot, downy mildew) at a humidity of sixty percent.

Which varieties to choose?

For growing in a greenhouse you need to choose zoned varieties with medium-sized fruits of early or mid-ripening period. Melon varieties: “Solnechnaya”, “Sweet Pineapple”, “Russian Vegetable Garden”, “Thirdtsatidnevnaya”, “Rainbow”, “Autumn” give wonderful harvest in greenhouses. Popular varieties watermelon: “Sibiryak”, “Moscow Charleston”, “Gift to the North”, “Spark”, “Cinderella”, “Ultra Early”.

How to prepare the soil?

Melon and watermelon love fertile soil with weak or neutral acidity. It should be loose and breathable. Do not allow water to stagnate. It’s good to start preparing the soil for the future harvest in the fall. Place tops, cut grass, and rotted manure in the beds.

What layer should I use? be manure in the greenhouse for watermelons and melons? About 30 centimeters will be enough. Important! Discard fallen leaves.

Dangerous garden pests like to spend the winter in them. In spring, you can add straw manure or humus with mineral fertilizers.

To improve the soil structure for each square meter The area is filled with a bucket of river sand and the beds are dug up. To reduce soil acidity add calcium and magnesium compounds. They nourish plants and improve their growth.

Sulfur or ammonium sulfate will help increase the acid balance. The soil must be warmed by the time the seedlings are planted. To do this, remove a layer of soil to the depth of a shovel, put in a mixture of herbal material and humus, and pour in plenty of hot water. Place soil on top and cover with film.

What you need to know about seedlings?

Two factors influence the production of strong, healthy seedlings:

1. Properly selected seeds. They must be large and have a high specific gravity. The solution will help you avoid mistakes table salt. The seeds are dipped in liquid (a teaspoon per glass of water). Those that float are thrown away. Those that settle at the bottom are taken for sowing. Necessarily rinse off any remaining salt, dry.
2. Nutritious soil. It is sold in stores, but it is easy to prepare yourself. Mix three kilograms of humus with a kilogram of turf soil. Add 200 gr. wood ash and a small spoon of potassium sulfate. Sometimes mix peat or river sand. The soil should be loose, light, and well-permeable to moisture.

How to grow watermelons and melons in a greenhouse? Seedlings usually begin to grow in early April. From sowing seeds to the formation of a plant ready to move into the greenhouse, it takes 25-35 days for watermelons and 20-25 for melons. Based on this, they calculate the exact date start of work.

Seeds for fast germination soaked in warm water for two to three hours. It wouldn’t hurt to dip them in a weak solution of potassium permanganate to protect them from diseases.

Drop one seed into peat pots for seedlings (can be replaced with plastic cups or a cut bottle) to a depth of three centimeters. Cover the top with film. The temperature is maintained at least 25ºC. When shoots appear, the film is removed. If the greenhouse is heated, the pots with future watermelons and melons are transferred there. If the temperature is low, grow on the windowsill.

A few tips will help ensure high viability of young plants.

• seedlings need large quantities Sveta. To prevent plants from stretching, it is advisable create longer daylight hours for them(at least 14 hours);
• Watering should be done carefully. If water gets on the leaves, they may rot;
• Plants are sensitive to “personal space.” The pots should not be placed close to each other;
• do not neglect mineral supplements.

The seedlings are transferred to the greenhouse at the stage of two to three true leaves. The earth should warm up to 14ºC. The night air temperature is not lower than 5ºC-8ºC, and the daytime temperature is above twenty.

In case of sudden drops in air temperature, seedlings in the greenhouse must be covered. Plants won't be transferred even short-term frosts.

The sprouts are carefully removed from plastic containers together with a lump of earth and lowered into the spilled warm water holes. Their depth is 10 cm. The seedlings are placed at a distance of 50 - 70 cm from each other in a checkerboard pattern. Above mulch the ground with sawdust.

You can plant two plants in one hole. In this case, the lashes are directed in directions opposite to each other. To avoid rotting of the root collar, do not bury the plant too deeply into the soil. The lump should rise 2 cm above the ground.

How to properly care?

Job to obtain a decent harvest not labor intensive, but requires compliance with certain conditions.

There are several ways to solve the problem:

1. Place each ripening fruit in a separate net and tie it to the trellis. This best method save watermelons and melons.
2. Place a board under the watermelon or melon. This method is good only for the lower fruits (or you will have to bend the lashes to the ground). The disadvantages include the need to regularly turn the berries for their uniform maturation.
3. Make shelves from any material and attach them to the walls of the greenhouse. The fruits will also have to be turned over.
4. Sometimes cardboard boxes are used instead of nets. They are difficult to attach to trellises, and it is difficult to monitor the development of the fruit.

Indicates the ripeness of watermelons shiny bark with a clear pattern, shriveled stalk and a characteristic dull sound when hitting the berry. Ripe melons emit a unique aroma. Store the harvest in cardboard boxes. It is advisable to place each fruit in a separate container.

How to avoid mistakes?

In some cases, melon berries do not set. This happens due to mistakes made.

1. Wrong choice of seeds. It is better to buy them in specialized stores. Pay attention to the expiration date and the permissibility of cultivation in a particular region;
2. Violation of the conditions for growing seedlings and fruit-bearing plants. The formation of lashes, garter, pollination influence the formation of ovaries;
3. Low ambient temperature. In a cold rainy summer it is necessary to provide additional heating of the greenhouse and illumination of plants with LED or sodium lamps.

Subject to simple planting and care conditions, melons and melons in protected soil will grow no worse than under the southern sun. Ecologically clean, nitrate-free watermelons and melons will delight gardeners a bountiful harvest and excellent taste.

Useful video:

It is quite possible to grow a watermelon or melon, having at least a film greenhouse, even in the harsh Russian climate. It is enough just to choose the right varieties, grow seedlings in a timely manner and take a responsible approach to agricultural technology.

Of course, the first year of caring for capricious melon crops may seem difficult or incomprehensible to you. But the very next season, when you understand all the principles of growth of watermelons and melons, things will become easier, and the harvests will please you.

How to choose varieties of watermelon and melon for a greenhouse

Even having a good greenhouse will not provide you with a warm period of such duration as in the homeland of watermelons and melons. Therefore, it is better to choose early-ripening and ultra-early ripening varieties that have time to ripen before it gets colder or the plantings are attacked by diseases. In addition, you should not chase large-fruited varieties - in middle lane These plants still won’t give the promised result, but they will be considerably inferior in taste to their smaller counterparts.

Watermelon varieties for greenhouses

IN garden centers you can see the seeds of dozens of varieties of watermelons for greenhouses and open ground. For the first time, you should not collect a dozen bags, 1-2 will be enough, but with proven options.

Variety/hybrid	Ripening period	Fruit weight	Features of the variety
Knyazhich		4-6 kg	Raspberry pulp, thin skin
Crimson Sweet	67-82 days after emergence	3-5 kg	Resistant to powdery mildew and anthracnose
Ogonyok	70-87 days after emergence	1.5-2.5 kg	Slightly segmented surface, brittle crust
Orange honey F1	70-85 days after emergence	2-2.5 kg	Orange pulp, high sugar content
Gift of the sun	68-73 days after emergence	4-4.5 kg	Orange skin of the fruit, leaves with yellow veins and petioles, compact bushes
Suga Baby	75-85 days after germination	3-5 kg	Grainy pulp with high sugar content

Melon varieties for greenhouses

Melons adapted for growing in greenhouses are also distinguished by their early ripening and ultra-early ripening. Many of the varieties are resistant to diseases and boast aromatic juicy pulp at a small size.

Variety/hybrid	Ripening period	Fruit weight	Features of the variety
Altai	65-75 days after emergence	0.8-1.6 kg	Oval fruits of lemon-yellow color, lashes up to 2 m long, the plant is resistant to low temperatures
Zlato Skifov F1		1.1-1.3 kg	Resistant to powdery mildew, the crust is covered with a dense mesh
Iroquois F1	75-80 days after germination	1.2-1.7 kg	Not suitable for storage, quickly loses sugar after ripening
Reward	65-70 days after germination	1.5-2 kg	The crust is covered with a dense mesh
Augen F1	80-85 days after emergence	0.8-0.9 kg	Compact bush with short vines, well suited for a vertical trellis; when ripe, the rind of the fruit turns yellow
Ethiopian	70-80 days after germination	3.5-5 kg	Compact powerful bushes, fruits store well, the variety is resistant to sunburn

Seedlings of watermelons and melons

At the stage of growing seedlings, watermelons and melons are no different from each other. All procedures and deadlines for these crops are the same, so you can carry out work “in bulk.”

How and when to sow watermelons and melons

A mixture for sowing melon seeds is prepared from 1 part lowland peat, 1 part humus, 0.5 part washed sand. For every liter ready mixture you need to add 2 tbsp. ash and mix well.

Watermelon and melon seeds are sown for seedlings in mid-April. Place 1 seed in separate pots at a depth of 2 cm. Initially, the pots are filled 2/3 with soil, and during the growth process the soil is added so that the seedlings form additional roots.

The first days after sowing (before emergence), the pots are kept in a warm room with a temperature of 25-30°C. After this, the temperature is reduced to 16-18°C for a week, and during the period of active growth of seedlings, the temperature during the day should be 20-25°C, and at night – 16-18°C.

From emergence of seedlings to planting seedlings on permanent place 30 days must pass.

Caring for watermelon and melon seedlings

Excessive moisture is detrimental to melons at any stage, so water the seedlings no more than 2 times a week, and in between, let the soil dry out. But you shouldn’t forget about fertilizing - do the first at the stage of the appearance of the first real leaf, and the second after 2 weeks.

To fertilize seedlings, dissolve in 1 liter of water:

• 2 g superphosphate;
• 1.5 g potassium chloride;
• 1 g ammonium nitrate.

The resulting solution can be watered up to 15 plants.

Planting seedlings in a greenhouse

Planting seedlings of watermelons and melons in a permanent place is carried out in mid-May, preferably on a cloudy day or in the evening. The plants are rolled over with a clod of earth, after thoroughly watering the soil.

Melons are sensitive to fungal diseases, so the root collar should not be buried, and it is advisable to sprinkle the planting site with sand. For the first couple of weeks, the seedlings are watered with warm water so as not to increase the stress of transplanting.

Caring for watermelons and melons

Under natural conditions, melons and watermelons grow so unpretentiously that they are sown and forgotten about until harvest. Alas, our climate does not allow us to do the same with melons, and there is not much space in the average greenhouse.

How to water melons in a greenhouse

Watermelons and melons are watered at the rate of 2-3 buckets of water per 1 sq.m. Before flowering, this should be done once a week, during the flowering period 2 times a week, and after the fruits begin to ripen, watering is reduced to once every 10-15 days.

How to feed watermelons and melons

When grown in greenhouses, watermelons and melons are fed 3 times per season (not counting fertilizers that are applied during the seedling period):

• 1st feeding - at the time of planting in the ground;
• 2nd feeding - in the growth phase of the lateral vines;
• 3rd feeding - during the formation of buds.

Excess nitrogen fertilizers prolongs the growing season and delays the ripening of the crop.

Melons respond well to the application of complex mineral fertilizers. It is best to prepare for them a mixture of 100 g of superphosphate, 30 g of potassium salt, 15 g of ammonium nitrate. These substances are diluted in a bucket of water, which is then used for 2-3 plants.

Formation of watermelon and melon bushes

The most difficult thing in caring for watermelons and melons is the formation of bushes. Since the size of the greenhouse does not allow them to be spread out, it is necessary to install trellises and guide the vines for vertical growth.

Each plant is capable of producing a couple of dozen ovaries, but in our latitudes only 3-4 fruits can ripen on one bush. The rest simply take away strength and slow down maturation. To wait for ripe watermelons and melons, you need to pick off excess ovaries and female flowers.

To prevent the fruit branch from bending, the fruits are placed in a net and tied to a trellis.

Vertical cultivation of melons in a greenhouse not only saves space, but also gives the vines more light, which means it speeds up the ripening of the fruit. To obtain a trellis culture, a few days after planting the seedlings, a structure of supports and wire is installed above it. At a height of 2 m, a rope is tied, and its lower end is wrapped in a loose loop around the stem of the plant. As they grow, the shoots are twisted around the rope.

There is one more subtlety in the formation of melons - you need to pinch the apical growth points of the vines above the 3-4 leaf. Then shoots form from the axillary buds, two of which must be left and lifted onto a trellis in the shape of the letter V, and the rest removed. Without pinching, the plant will spend energy developing vines to the detriment of the fruits.

Problems and diseases of greenhouse melons

The greenhouse can provide watermelons and melons with required temperature, but these southern plants are also accustomed to dry air. In the closed space of a greenhouse it is very humid, and this leads to a number of problems and diseases.

Diseases

Most often, watermelons and melons in a greenhouse suffer from powdery mildew and anthracnose. In the first case, the leaves become covered with a white, gradually darkening coating, and in the second, brown or pink spots form on them, and the fruits wrinkle and rot.

Anthracnose spots on watermelon leaves

Diseases are caused by high humidity, lack of sun and low temperatures. Prevention can be treated with a 1% solution of Bordeaux mixture or copper oxychloride.

If signs of powdery mildew or anthracnose appear on melons, you must immediately remove the affected areas of the plants. Twice (with an interval of 7-10 days) treatment of plantings with Bordeaux mixture and regular ventilation will help preserve the harvest.

Growing difficulties

Even the most diligent and experienced gardener may face a number of problems while growing these crops. Fortunately, everyone has their own solution.

Lack of ovaries associated with a lack of pollination, often found in greenhouse crops. In order for insects to get inside, you need to leave the windows and doors open, sprinkle the bushes with sweet water or plant honey plants next to them. If all measures do not help, you will have to pollinate the flowers manually.

Fruit rotting occurs due to high humidity and accumulating condensate. The greenhouse must be ventilated at least twice a day and wiped from the inside, preventing cold drops from falling on the watermelons and melons.

Unsweetened fruits- another consequence high humidity. Even if you minimize watering during the period of fruit ripening, the plants will still be able to receive water through the leaves, and the sugar level in melons will decrease as a result. To cope with this problem, it is worth keeping the greenhouse in ventilation mode whenever the temperature allows it, and closing it only at night.

Is it difficult to grow a watermelon or melon in a greenhouse in the country? Let’s face it, it’s not as simple as, say, zucchini. But you will also get a lot of joy from harvesting a sweet harvest, which means it’s worth the risk.

Watermelon and melon grown on your own plot are the dream of many gardeners. As is known, this heat-loving crops, and in harsher climates they are best grown in greenhouses. At the right approach this is not such a difficult task, but you can enjoy honey melons or juicy watermelon at the beginning of summer.

The right greenhouse

Growing melons requires creating appropriate conditions for the plants. They need reliable protection from damage by late frosts, fertilizing several times a season and shaping plants to produce high-quality fruits.

To ensure the proper development of watermelons and melons in a greenhouse, it must meet certain requirements.

1. Greenhouses are not suitable for growing melons - they are too low and small. A good option would be high greenhouse. Under natural conditions, plant shoots spread along the ground, but in a greenhouse, due to the limited area, they climb along trellises. Therefore, the higher the greenhouse, the better. The optimal height would be approximately 2 m or higher.
2. In a greenhouse, watermelons and melons can coexist with other crops, but this is not the best option. Southern plants tolerate drought well, high temperature, but humidity in a greenhouse of 60% or more can cause fungal diseases of melons. Therefore, it is better to allocate a separate greenhouse for their cultivation.
3. Melon or watermelon require neutral soil pH 6.8-7, fertile, not very greasy and well-drained. The soil must be well heated.

Seeds and seedlings

By choosing the right seeds, you can ensure a good harvest of greenhouse melons. When choosing seeds, you must definitely give preference to varieties adapted to growing in a specific climate. You also need to pay attention to the timing of ripening: if the period from germination to ripening is short, then the fruits will be tasty and juicy. At long period ripening, you can be left without the long-awaited harvest.

The size of the fruit also plays an important role. The best varieties for growing in greenhouses will be varieties with small fruits; giant watermelon and melon can only grow under natural conditions in the south.

To get strong, healthy seedlings, seeds are sown in the second half of April. There are several rules that will ensure good results:

• for each plant it is better to immediately allocate a separate pot or glass with a diameter of 8-10 cm;
• to increase the germination of seeds, before sowing they need to be soaked for several hours in any immunostimulant or simply in warm water (25 degrees);
• to provide the seedlings with everything they need nutrients, for one part of plain earth take three parts of humus, a glass of ash and a teaspoon of potassium sulfate;
• the seeds need to be immersed to a depth of 2-3 cm, and to make it easier for the sprouts to germinate, they are placed on their side;
• temperature regime very important, before germination the temperature should be maintained at about 25 degrees, and after sprouts appear it is reduced by 3-4 degrees;
• Before sprouting, the cups should be covered with film or glass.

The seedlings grow very quickly. About a month after germination, it can be planted in a greenhouse. But before that, it’s worth paying attention to young plants:

• as the leaves grow, you need to move the cups with melons or watermelons away from each other, giving the plants more space;
• daylight hours should be 13-14 hours, so you will have to use lamps for additional illumination to prevent the sprouts from stretching and weakening;
• you need to fertilize the plants with a solution of complex fertilizers, the procedure is carried out 10 days after germination, and then again after 10 days.

How to grow watermelon in a greenhouse (video)

Caring for melons in a greenhouse

You can plant watermelons and melons in a greenhouse from mid-May, after warm weather sets in and the night temperature does not drop below +5 degrees.

Before planting seedlings, you need to prepare the soil. A trench 20 cm deep is dug in the greenhouse, and hay and humus are placed at the bottom. Then disperse nitrogen fertilizer and water hot water. After this, the soil is filled in and the prepared area is covered for several days with black film to quickly warm up the earth.

Landing is performed as follows:

• the distance between rows should be 70 cm, and between plants in a row - 50 cm;
• You can plant two plants in one hole at once, and then spread their shoots along a trellis in different directions;
• the holes are filled with humus and watered with plenty of warm water;
• seedlings have delicate roots, so transferring from cups or pots into holes must be done very carefully so as not to damage them;
• the lump of earth with seedlings should be slightly raised above the soil to avoid rotting of the hypocotyledon.

Further cultivation of watermelons and melons comes down to a few simple operations.

1. Ventilation. If the temperature in the greenhouse exceeds 30 degrees, you need to open the windows or slightly raise the film for ventilation.
2. Watering. If the leaves of the plants begin to droop, this is a signal to water. In this case, you need to avoid getting water on the foliage and excessive soil moisture, which can lead to the development of fungus.
3. Fertilizer application. During the period of active plant growth, nitrogen and ammonia fertilizers and ash are added during irrigation. When the fruits begin to ripen, stop feeding.
4. Pollination. How to grow watermelons in closed greenhouse without bees? You just need to do the pollination yourself. To do this, large ones are plucked male flowers, tear off the petals and pass the remaining anthers along the stigmas of the female flowers.
5. Pinching is performed after the 5th leaf appears. When the emerging ovaries reach a diameter of 4-5 cm, the strongest one is selected on each lash, and the rest are cut off.
6. Plants can be tied up within 10 days after planting in the greenhouse. For tying, grown fruits are placed in nets and tied with twine directly to the trellis.

By adhering to the described rules, you can grow a sweet watermelon or melon even in Siberian conditions, obtaining an excellent harvest.

Watermelons and melons in a greenhouse (video)

Gallery: watermelons and melons in a greenhouse (15 photos)

Watermelon is considered a heat-loving plant, so many believe that growing such a crop in the northern or central regions is impossible. In fact, this sweet and huge berry can be obtained in absolutely any region if you build on garden plot greenhouse and adhere to all rules regarding plant maintenance.

Is it possible to grow watermelons all year round in a greenhouse?

Growing watermelons in a greenhouse is aimed at obtaining a harvest of this crop in the central and northern region of the country. Year-round cultivation of watermelons is unlikely to end in success, because for this crop all prescribed planting dates must be observed. By the way square watermelons can also be grown in a greenhouse.

A greenhouse is needed to correct weather and make them more suitable for the growth of such plants. In the off-season, growing watermelons even in a greenhouse is unlikely to be successful, because the berry will not have enough sunlight to fully ripen. If you do manage to harvest the crop, it will no longer be so tasty and sugary.

Watermelons in greenhouses

Benefits of using a greenhouse

Growing watermelon in a greenhouse will help create the necessary climatic conditions and protect the plant from various natural disasters. In addition, the covering structure boasts the following advantages:

1. Late return frosts, characteristic of the central and northern regions, negatively affect the development of culture. Using a greenhouse you don’t have to worry about this factor;
2. Too much soil and air humidity can significantly affect the taste of the fruit; they will become less sweet and watery;
3. A greenhouse will help avoid various types of mechanical damage.

The construction of such a structure in southern areas is not profitable, because there are favorable weather conditions and the crop ripens without creating additional conditions. As for other regions, a greenhouse will be an excellent way to grow such melons.

How to choose and prepare a greenhouse or greenhouse?

In order to start growing watermelons in a greenhouse, you first need to build such a covering structure. Size land plot and the greenhouse itself will depend on the wishes of the gardener. It is worth considering that such plants are planted at a distance of 1 meter from each other, so to grow 10 bushes you will need a structure with an area of ​​10 square meters, a length of 5 meters and a width of 2 meters.

Watermelon, like cucumbers, is grown on trellises, so in order for the plant to feel comfortable and not be limited in growth, the height of the greenhouse must be at least 2 meters.

To decide which design fits better others should consider their characteristics:

Tied watermelons in a greenhouse

1. A greenhouse covered with film will be the cheapest and simplest option. The disadvantage of the design is that it cannot be installed additional heating, and accordingly it will not be possible to control the temperature in the room. You can plant seedlings in such a structure as early as May at home or in the country.
2. The glass structure will be the most bulky, a foundation will have to be installed for it. But if you build such a greenhouse, you can be sure of its durability and reliability. It is possible to build a heating system in it;
3. A polycarbonate greenhouse will become the best option , the only downside of which will be the price. The structure is easy to install, holds firmly in place and creates opportunities for organizing heating. Planting seedlings is possible as early as April. Growing fruits with your own hands is not difficult.

Before planting watermelons, the greenhouse is prepared for this process:

1. Pipes are laid underground through which the flow will flow. hot water and thereby create additional heating. A gas or electric boiler can be used as the main element;
2. In order to be able to increase daylight hours, fluorescent lamps are installed on the roof of the structure;
3. Melon crops do not tolerate fungal diseases, so the frame, covering material and soil must be disinfected with Brodka liquid or copper sulfate solution.

Selecting a variety and purchasing seeds

In order for a watermelon to ripen and produce a good harvest, even in the northern region, it is necessary to choose the right variety; it must be zoned and belong to the early or medium ripening period. The following varieties of watermelon are popular:

• Siberian;
• Charleston near Moscow;
• A gift to the north;
• Ogonyok;
• Cinderella, etc.

Seeds suitable for growing crops must be large and heavy. Hollow planting material will not be able to adapt to environmental conditions.

You can check the quality of the seeds using saline solution, into which future planting material is released. Specimens that have settled to the bottom are suitable for sowing. Before planting, they are pre-washed and dried.

Planting and caring for crops with your own hands

In order to grow watermelon in a greenhouse, you need to take into account many factors that influence this process. In addition, they need to be looked after, watered and fed.

Growing seedlings

In order to get watermelons from seeds, you first need to grow seedlings. Seeds should be planted at the end of April. A mixture of bee pollen, turf soil, sand and mineral fertilizers is used as fertile soil.

Before sowing the seeds, soak them in warm water for several hours. Using this procedure, you can improve their germination. For disinfection planting material it is dipped into a weak solution of potassium permanganate for several minutes.

Peat pots, plastic glasses or cut-off bottles filled with fertile soil. Seeds are sown one at a time, deepening them by 3-4 centimeters.

Small watermelon fruit

In order for seedlings to appear as quickly as possible, the container must be kept in a room with a temperature of at least 25 degrees. When further growing seedlings, you should adhere to some rules:

1. Daylight hours should be at least 14 hours a day;
2. You need to water the seedlings very carefully so as not to get on the foliage of the plant;
3. Pots should be placed at a distance of 20-30 centimeters from each other;
4. Watermelons respond well to the application of mineral fertilizers.

Planting seedlings in a greenhouse

Before planting watermelon seedlings in greenhouses, it is necessary to prepare the soil. This culture prefers fertile soils with neutral acidity. To achieve the best result, the following components are added to the digging:

• humus;
• peat;
• superphosphate;
• potassium salt;
• ammonium sulfate.

The next step will be the formation of bulk ridges, which are placed along the walls of the greenhouse. Their height should be 30 centimeters and width 50-80 centimeters. Optimal distance between rows is considered 1 meter.

Planting seedlings is carried out according to the following algorithm:

1. To begin with, dig holes 10 centimeters deep;
2. The seedlings are taken out of the container along with a lump of earth. This is necessary in order to avoid damage to the root system;
3. Plants are placed in a checkerboard pattern at a distance of 50-70 centimeters from each other;
4. Burying the root collar into the ground can cause rotting, so it is left on the surface;
5. After the seedling is in the ground, it must be watered and mulched with sawdust.

Watermelon close up

Correct temperature and lighting

Watermelon develops best and forms its fruits at an air temperature of 30 degrees. To avoid condensation, the greenhouse is periodically ventilated, while avoiding the creation of a draft.

The optimal daylight hours should be 14 hours. If this indicator is insufficient, you must use artificial lighting. Watermelon does not react well to open Sun rays, therefore, on too hot and sultry days, the walls of the greenhouse are slightly shaded.

How often to water the berries?

Watermelons have a deep root system, thanks to which the plant can extract moisture from the deep layers of the soil. How often is watering done? You need to water the bushes only when the leaves begin to fade slightly. In this case, the risk of waterlogging is minimized. When watering, you should avoid getting drops on the leaves and shoots of the plant.

The consequences of waterlogging are rotting of the roots and the appearance of cracks in the fruits.

To obtain the richest harvest, once a month the soil is watered with complex mineral fertilizers diluted in water. Also, before the fruits began to form, the bushes were fed with ammonium nitrate every 2 weeks.

Formation of plants

Obtaining a rich harvest directly depends on how the bushes were formed:

Caring for watermelons in a greenhouse

1. The growing point must be pinched above the fifth leaf;
2. On the two lower shoots, flowers appear later than the others, so the fruits do not have time to ripen. Such lashes are removed immediately after their appearance;
3. Shoots without ovaries are also removed;
4. In order for the berries to develop well, the shoots are tied to a trellis. Such work is performed under the second or third sheet. As the lashes grow, they are periodically tightened;
5. The side shoots on which ovaries have formed must also be pruned. They are docked above the third leaf above the female flowers and above the seventh leaf above the male flowers.

5-6 fruits are left on one plant, this amount is the most optimal.

Experienced gardeners They believe that watermelons should not lie on the ground while the fruits are ripening, so they are placed in a separate net and hung from a trellis.

Pollination

After they appear yellow flowers, they will need to be pollinated on their own. In the open ground, bees do this work, but in the greenhouse there are no such “workers”. The whole process follows the following rules:

1. It is very important not to miss the designated deadlines, because male flowers fall off after a few hours, and female flowers will retain the ability to pollinate for only 3 days;
2. Male flowers (the largest and without an ovary) are carefully picked and the petals are removed so as not to damage the pollen;
3. The stamens are applied several times to the pistils.

The possibility of planting watermelons with melons and tomatoes together

Growing watermelons in a greenhouse is quite an interesting process, and with the proper skill, such a crop can be placed in the same room with other plants:

1. In order not to wait for a favorable time for planting watermelons, you can grow early greens or radishes in the greenhouse, which will be useful predecessors;
2. Watermelon is a drought-resistant crop, next to which tomatoes and eggplants are successfully grown. These plants have similar care needs and rules.
3. Melons are also good neighbors for watermelons. By the way, you can plant them even in the same bed.

Watermelon seedlings for planting in a greenhouse

Harvesting

Harvest usually begins in mid to late August. The full maturity of the fruit can be judged by the following signs:

• the junction of the berry and the lash partially dries out;
• a bright pattern appears on the surface of the watermelon;
• When tapping, you can hear a dull sound and feel vibration.

The grown fruits must be collected very carefully to avoid mechanical damage. If a scratch appears on the watermelon, the shelf life will be much shorter.

Growing watermelons in a greenhouse is a very painstaking process that requires constant monitoring of various indicators. Using this design, melons can be grown not only in the south, but also in the north and other regions.

Watermelon is an amazing berry with excellent, cool, sweet pulp that melts in your mouth, which everyone, young and old, loves. And therefore, they have long been learned to be successfully grown in the most difficult climatic latitudes of the Urals and Siberia, often labeled as risky farming zones.

Watermelons in a polycarbonate greenhouse are no longer a curiosity and are successfully ripening. Experienced gardeners often emphasize unpretentiousness. We will talk about the intricacies of greenhouse cultivation of striped green berries in this article.

How to grow watermelons in a greenhouse

The peculiarities of this culture leave a special imprint on greenhouse production. Watermelon is originally a southern, light-loving plant, whose homeland is the hot sands of deserts. Naturally, it may not have enough heat and light, so greenhouses for growing these melons should be installed in the most illuminated places, where there are no bushes, trees or structures that cast a shadow. In northern regions with a noticeable lack of natural light, which affects the development of plants, additional artificial lighting is used: for a medium-sized greenhouse of 6 * 3 * 2 m, four LB-40 lamps are enough. Watermelons are planted as seedlings in April, otherwise the berries will not have time to ripen.

When growing in greenhouses, do not forget that watermelons cannot tolerate high (more than 60%) humidity, since an arid climate is their native element. Therefore, periodic ventilation of greenhouses is required condition for comfortable growth striped berry in temperate climate zones. With proper care, watermelons grow well in a greenhouse in Siberia, ripening in early autumn and not inferior in sugar content to their melon counterparts.

Choosing a variety

Not every watermelon is suitable for greenhouse cultivation. Only early varieties watermelons Ideal option there will be a selection of zoned, i.e. adapted to regional climatic conditions seed material. When purchasing seeds, you need to focus on the date of their production. It has been noticed that the “freshest” seeds germinate faster and develop better. In addition, large-fruited varieties do not have time to ripen in the greenhouse space. Small watermelons are tied and filled faster. In a polycarbonate greenhouse, one and a half to two kilogram fruits of proven varieties “Ogonyok”, “Ultra Early”, “Siberian”, “Cinderella”, “Gift to the North”, etc. are successfully grown. Today, many hybrids with a short growing season have been bred. Growing watermelons begins with sowing seedlings.

How to plant watermelons correctly

The duration of the “seedling” period for melons and melons is 25-35 days. Based on this time, the date for planting the seedlings in a permanent place in the greenhouse is calculated. It is important that the seedlings are at the ready stage at this time and are not overgrown or too weak. Therefore, all stages of the work must be done correctly. Seeds are usually sown in mid-April.

Along with watermelons, other crops can be grown in the same greenhouse, for example, melons, nightshades, i.e., those that prefer to grow in low humidity conditions.

The requirements put forward by watermelon during greenhouse cultivation include high-quality care, protection from return frosts and a mandatory limitation of the number of fruits on one bush.

Planting seedlings

Prepared seedlings are planted in a greenhouse if the soil temperature is at least 14-15˚C. In this case, the apical growth point of the plants is not pinched. Since watermelons are large plants, planting more than two crops per square meter is not recommended.

The planting algorithm is as follows: water the planting holes generously, then carefully remove the plant from the container, place it in the hole and plant it above the soil level so that a kind of tubercle is formed around the stem, protecting it from water. Plantings in unheated greenhouses are initially covered with additional film material. Thus, watermelons in a greenhouse in the Urals or other temperate zones adapt faster and begin to grow.

Planting care

In order for the sugar content of watermelon to be high, it needs moist soil and dry soil to grow. warm air. The crop is watered rarely, but generously, while trying not to wet the stem. Regular ventilation of the greenhouse is necessary to maintain optimal humidity. Comfortable temperature air during the day should be maintained around + 24-30°C, at night - + 18-20°C. If there is a threat of cold weather, a temporary frame is installed above the plants and the plants are covered.

It is more convenient to grow watermelons in a polycarbonate greenhouse on a trellis, making sure to form it. The central stem is passed along the vertical twine. The 2 lower side shoots are removed because they are unproductive - the female flowers appear on them too late to be able to ripen. The next 3-4 stems are attached to a trellis on opposite sides of the main shoot and carefully monitored: when female flowers grow, they are pinched 2-3 internodes higher. Shoots producing male flowers up to 6-7 nodes are removed.

Standardization of the number of fruits on a plant

Since watermelon fruits are large, the number of ovaries will have to be normalized. This procedure will speed up the formation of the first berries and improve their taste. The optimal load is considered to be the presence of 4-5 fruits weighing 1-1.2 kg each on one plant.

During the season, the soil is loosened 5-6 times. Good results provides mulching with humus and fertilizing with mullein infusion (1/10 l). 2-3 weeks before the end of the growing season, watering is stopped. At the same time, growth processes slow down and the sugar content of the fruit increases.

The article gives an idea of ​​how to plant watermelons correctly, what agricultural techniques will help to grow a good harvest of this magnificent southern berry in the temperate latitudes of the country.

Watermelons need not only the formation of bushes, but also rationing of the yield. Without these two techniques, you will not be able to grow large and sugary fruits. Most likely, there will be a lot of small and tasteless ones.

About the need to form watermelons

Watermelons have unlimited growth of vines. If you do not pinch them, fruits will form along the entire trunk and on the side shoots. The lashes grow further, the bush spends energy both on their development and on the formation of more and more new fruits. As a result, we will get long stems and many small watermelons on them. In Africa and Australia, they will, of course, ripen, but not in our extreme climate.

Wild watermelons grow in Australia and southern Africa

By shaping we stop the excessive growth of shoots, and by rationing we leave only a few fruits on the bush. The plant will direct all its energy to growing and ripening them. It turns out that the bush itself, without any pinching, tends to become wild. And only under the supervision of a skilled gardener does it turn into a cultivated and productive plant.

Video: to pinch or not to pinch watermelon vines

When do watermelons begin to form?

To determine the timing of pinching the lashes and removing unnecessary stepsons, first select a formation scheme. There are several of them. Watermelons are grown with one, two, or three stems. The method depends on the variety, region and place of cultivation: in a greenhouse or open ground. If you bought seeds of several varieties and hybrids, then perhaps each will require its own formation technology; it must be carried out within a certain time frame and often in several stages.

In most cases, pinching of the lashes is done over the ovary, which has grown to the size of an apple.

Formation in a greenhouse

A special feature of growing in a greenhouse is the ability to tie watermelon vines to a trellis. Therefore, plants are planted more densely. Bushes are formed into one or two stems. Hybrids are often grown indoors. Most of them produce very large fruits, but to make sure of this, you need to correctly form and standardize.

Growing in one stem

This simplest method is suitable for both varieties and hybrids. The main whip directed upward along the rope. All side shoots are removed. The fruits are set on the main stem. Of these, 1–4 are left depending on the region and size of the watermelons, the rest are removed. The main lash is pinched, 5 leaves away from the top fruit.

Video: greenhouse in the Moscow region, growing 3-4 watermelons on one vine

In Siberia and the northern regions, only one watermelon weighing 7–10 kg will have time to ripen on one vine, and in the south of the Russian Federation - 2–3. If it is a small-fruited variety, then more ovaries are left. The number of berries that will have time to ripen over the summer is individual for each variety and region. You'll have to find out through experience. The information on the seed packet can help.

Formation vertically with fruiting on shoots of the second order

A more labor-intensive method, since you need to monitor the growing stepsons and recognize what flowers grow on them, then wait for the ovaries and pinch them. However, it is precisely with this technology that many varieties bear fruit well. Unlike hybrids, their fruits set faster on the side shoots.

Watermelons set fruits both on the main stem and on the side shoots

Stages of formation:

1. The main lash is tied to the trellis, and every day it is twisted around the rope clockwise.
2. The two lower stepsons are removed or pinched at the very beginning of their growth.
3. All shoots on which female flowers have not appeared until the 6th or 7th leaf are removed - cut off or plucked out from the vine itself.
4. Shoots with ovaries (female flowers) are pinched, leaving 2-3 leaves from them.
5. The harvest is rationed: 4–5 fruits weighing about 1 kg are left on one bush; if it is a large-fruited variety, then 1–2 fruits. The rest are removed, preventing them from growing to 5 cm in diameter.
6. The main vine is pinched, counting 5 leaves from the top fruit.

Schemes for the formation of watermelons, including in one stem (with and without stepsons)

Do not pinch the vines before you are sure that the ovaries are growing. Small watermelons with Walnut often dry out and fall off.

Formation in open ground

In open ground, watermelons are grown in a spread pattern. At the same time, the lashes are intertwined, it is impossible to keep track of every stepson and flower. Therefore, in melon fields, formation is minimized or pinched at the very beginning so that a compact bush grows.

When grown on a spread, formation begins when the watermelons grow in diameter to 5–7 cm

Formation after the ovaries grow

Using this technology, watermelons are allowed to grow freely. Only the tops of the lashes that extend beyond the melon plant are pinched. Formation begins when several apple-sized fruits appear. From each such fruit, 5 leaves are removed and pinched. All other fruits are removed, shoots without fruits are cut off from the stem. In this case, the cut off sections are left in place. Pulling them out can damage the vines left for fruiting.

Video: a simple method of forming in open ground (Altai Territory)

In the melon thickets, you can overlook something. Therefore, a month before the onset of cold nights in the region (below +15 ⁰C), approximately in mid-to-late July, the bed is visited for formation again and all visible tops of the vines are pinched.

Formation of a bush with fruiting on shoots of the third order

Scientists have found that watermelons formed on shoots of the third order grow and ripen faster than others. The technology is recommended for northern regions with short summers.

1. When the fifth leaf appears on the young plant, pinch the stem above the third leaf.
2. Three second-order shoots will grow from the axils; select two and pinch them over the fifth leaf. The third one is removed.
3. Third-order branches will grow on the remaining two vines, and berries will grow on them.
4. 2–4 watermelons are left on the bush, depending on the expected size of the fruit. The remaining ovaries are removed.
5. All branches without watermelons are cut off, and fruit-bearing ones are pinched at 3–5 leaves from the fruit.

Scheme of watermelon formation to obtain a harvest on third-order shoots

Two methods for open and closed ground

Some Siberian gardeners grow large watermelons very in a simple way, which has already been mentioned. They leave in the bush one lash and one watermelon that tied on it first. The stem is pinched after 5 leaves, and all side shoots, flowers and ovaries are also removed. They say it’s easier to grow 30 bushes with one watermelon than to plant 10 and constantly pinch them to grow the same 30 berries. In addition, the third watermelon does not ripen in every area, but one on a bush will ripen quickly.

Video: one bush - one watermelon, greenhouse in Siberia

Other watermelon growers are solving the problem of non-ripening of the third fruit alternative way. They ensure that three berries set, grow and ripen at the same time. To do this, leave the main lash and two stepsons emerging from axils 3 and 4 from the ground of the leaf. All other shoots are removed. It turns out three lashes. When the fruits set on each and begin to grow, pinch the fifth leaves from the fruits. But such technology should also be subject to your criticism. After all, a lot depends on the size of the future fruits, the place of cultivation and the weather.

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