The plant has such an attractive and familiar appearance that it is surprising that it is still quite rarely found at home. Much more often it is used as an annual garden plant. But catharanthus is very unpretentious and can delight its owner for many years with its lush green leaves and impeccable flower color.

Confusion in classification

Catharanthus has so many popular names - pink periwinkle, Madagascar vinca, cayenne jasmine, spinster, lochnera, ammocalis - that you can’t help but wonder why one plant has so many names.

The history of its description and classification is truly complicated. When scientists first saw the flower on the island of Madagascar (the plant’s homeland), based on its appearance and colors, they decided that it was the closest relative of the popular periwinkle (Vinca) in Europe, and placed it in this genus. Long years after that the plant was called Madagascar or pink periwinkle. But soon they took a closer look at him and realized that they were mistaken. For a long time he could not be finally assigned to any clan. Either they placed it with the Lochners, or with the Ammocallis, and only in 1837 the genus Catharanthus was officially recognized and described as independent.

Throughout this time, while the classification was being put in order, flower growers had to get used to new names each time, but the most popular name remained pink periwinkle, as catharanthus is often called, to this day.

Description of the genus, origin, species

The name of the genus comes from two Greek words catharos, which means “clear, pure” and anthos - “flower”. This name really suits the description of the delicate, pure shades in the color of catharanthus flowers. The genus belongs to the Kutrov family, which is famous for its beautiful flowering, but at the same time poisonous plants, and catharanthus is no exception.

Only 8 species are known in the genus Catharanthus, 7 of which are endemic to the island of Madagascar and only one is native to India. At home, the flower lives in tropical rainforests. In indoor culture, only one species is common - Catharanthus rosea ( C. roseus).

It is a small perennial shrub reaching 70 cm in height. The stems are branched, erect, with oblong-lanceolate leaves of dark green color up to 7 cm in length. There is an elegant light vein in the middle of the leaf. The flowers are simple, with five petals. In appearance, they are similar to both balsam and phlox flowers. In the center of the flower there is a white or crimson eye. Despite the specific name, many varieties of catharanthus have been bred with a variety of colors: scarlet, pink, white, purple, with numerous specks. IN favorable conditions Catharanthus can bloom from late spring until the end of September. Currently, it has spread throughout many areas of the tropics and humid subtropics of America, Asia, Australia and Europe.

Basic requirements for home care

• Catharanthus needs a lot of light and it is advisable to choose a sunny place. South-east and south-west windows are quite suitable for him. After winter, you need to gradually get used to direct sunlight, otherwise the leaves may burn. In winter it may not have enough light. But, if you provide it with additional lighting, then the catharanthus is able to bloom almost all year round.

• The flower loves warmth; in summer it can be kept at temperatures from +20°C to +27°C. In winter, it is desirable to reduce the temperature to +15°-+18°C. True, with additional lighting, the catharanthus will overwinter quite well even with more high temperature. The most important thing for a plant in winter is not to overcool the soil in which it grows.
• Catharanthus loves it very much Fresh air and does not tolerate being kept in a stuffy or unventilated room, for example, in the kitchen. IN summer time you need to use every opportunity for the plant to live outside and bathe in “sunbathing”.
• The strait should be abundant in the warm season, but Catharanthus does not tolerate excessive dampness. It can survive drying out of the earthen clod, although this is not advisable, as it greatly weakens the plant. In winter, when the temperature drops, watering should be moderate. If kept warm and in good light, watering can be done in the same way as in summer.
• Air humidity is very important for catharanthus. It is necessary to spray daily and place the flower on a tray with damp moss or pebbles.

Meals, transfers

From the beginning of spring or from the moment the buds form, catharanthus needs regular feeding three times a month. It is advisable to use fertilizers with the same NPK ratio. From time to time you can alternate mineral fertilizing with organic fertilizing and add vermicompost or humus to the soil. If the plant overwinters in a warm place and in good light, then you can feed it all year round.

Catharanthus must be replanted every spring and before replanting, all shoots are cut off by at least one third for good branching of the shrub. The soil should be loose and nutritious, with a pH equal to 5.5 - 6. It can be composed of equal parts of leaf, humus, turf, peat soil and sand. It is advisable to add vermiculite, pine bark and fine gravel. It is important that when watering, uniform wetting of the soil occurs, and not individual places. Good drainage required. If it is not possible to create your own soil mixture, then ready-made soil for azaleas or conifers will be suitable.

You can choose a spacious pot, since catharanthus grows quickly, but it is advisable not to overdo it so that the soil does not turn sour.

Reproduction

Catharanthus is propagated by seeds, as well as green and semi-lignified cuttings.

Propagation by seeds is traditional; many grow catharanthus as an annual garden plant and therefore sow seeds for seedlings every year. If you sow the seeds at the end of winter, it is possible to observe flowering in the summer.

Before planting, it is better to soak the seeds for several hours in a solution of stimulants. Prepare a light substrate from one half ordinary land for mature plants and vermiculite. The seeds are sown at a very shallow depth, about 1 cm, and covered with a dark film, since they require complete darkness to germinate. At a temperature of at least +24°C+25°C, seedlings appear within 10 days. After germination, the temperature is reduced and the seedlings are placed under bright light. Before picking, it is better to take a transparent bag, place a container with seeds in it and straighten it in height. In this way, it is possible to maintain high humidity in young seedlings. It is better to pick individual pots when the small catharanthus have 4 true leaves.

The flower is also easily propagated by cuttings. You can use those that remain every spring after pruning. It can produce roots even in a jar of water.

Pruning, shaping, problems

The usual growth form of catharanthus is spreading, but it does not begin to branch immediately. To enhance branching, it is better to trim or pinch the tops of plants a few weeks after picking. This is necessary for abundant flowering, since buds appear on the tops of young shoots. When pruning, you must be careful; you must remember that the sap of the plant is poisonous.

When growing catharanthus in pots for more decorative effect, young plants are usually planted three plants together. But strong thickening is also harmful for catharanthus if they grow outside in the summer in cloudy and rainy weather. Therefore, when the bushes grow strongly, it is necessary to cut out the branches growing inward, and also remove all yellow, dry leaves and wilted flowers.

Pests rarely attack catharanthus. But the flower has a proprietary disease that cannot be treated. If the catharanthus does not develop, and the leaves turn yellow and pale greenish-yellowish spots appear on them, then most likely you will have to part with this specimen.

Catharanthus is an unpretentious and very pretty flower, which is better known as pink periwinkle; it feels great in the garden in a flower bed, containers, and also in pots on windowsills. The plant is small, compact, branched and, importantly, grows quickly and reproduces easily. But in order for catharanthus to please the eye with its impeccable flowering for a longer period of time, you still need to know some rules for caring for it.

To do this, it is best to take one part each of peat, humus, coarse sand, turf and leaf soil. But, in general, any fertile soil for catharanthus is also suitable, especially if it does not contain excess salts. For growing in pots, you can use soil for geraniums. The main thing is not to forget about drainage when using small expanded clay.

Like all plants, catharanthus rosea loves water. Therefore, you need to water it regularly, but under no circumstances overwater it, especially in containers or pots. Therefore, if a flower pot is not placed on a tray with expanded clay, then it is better to pour out the excess water from the tray.

Flower growers who have pink periwinkle growing in their gardens know very well that in rainy, too wet summers, the growth of the plant slows down. A flower that is constantly flooded, if it also grows in too dense soil, may unexpectedly die due to rotting of the roots.

However, the earthen clod should not be allowed to dry out. In some plant varieties, lack of moisture causes leaves to curl. The leaves curl into tubes, and it seems that the flower has died. But don't despair right away. Water abundantly and within an hour the leaves will unwind again.

To prevent catharanthus from suffering from excessive moisture in rainy weather, do not plant it too crowded. You should also not plant plants in a container too crowded: after all, spraying means a little rain.

Once every ten days, water your periwinkle with a special fertilizer containing potassium and phosphorus. Fertilizers are suitable for roses. Your home flower will thank you for this with especially spectacular flowering.

If the catharanthus does not like too wet soil, then, on the contrary, it welcomes high air humidity. Spray the flower more often; in winter it is better to do this with warm water. And also, take care of ventilation.

If catharanthus grows in the house, then it should be in a bright place. The more light the better. In case of lack of lighting, the stems will stretch out, become thinner, the flowers will become smaller, and their number will also decrease. East and west windows are excellent places for growing catharanthus. Pink periwinkle is a native of the tropics, so it loves warmth. The room temperature should not fall below 5-8 degrees. The optimal one is 15-30.

Outdoors, it is better to accustom the catharanthus to the bright sun gradually. When planting seedlings, think about whether this place will be protected from the cold wind. Drafts and cold winds can destroy the plant.

Although the pink catharanthus is a distant relative of our usual periwinkle, unlike it, it will not be able to overwinter in a flower bed in the garden. A flower growing outside will die with the onset of frost. So if you want to next year To admire exactly the same variety of catharanthus, you need to break cuttings and root them, transferring them to a warm house. It is better to take even indoor catharanthus out to the balcony in the summer and place it in a bright place. Let him “breathe” some fresh air.

The plant needs to be replanted often, every year, because the plant is a fast-growing one. Some even consider this to be his disadvantage. A plant growing in a pot, which has grown long over the winter, needs to be pruned every spring so that it bushes better. If the plant has become too elongated, violating the intended picture with its appearance, then you can trim it slightly in the summer. But you need to remember that flowers on a trimmed stem will appear only after two to three weeks. The main stem will become tree-like.

Although catharanthus is a perennial (if it grows indoors or in its homeland), it is not worth preserving it at home for more than three years. Better plant rejuvenate by cuttings. Young plants look more impressive. But, if you cut the catharanthus by more than one third, the flowers and leaves will become much smaller. (With good care, the leaves reach seven centimeters and the flowers reach five centimeters).

Pinch a flower planted in a flowerbed just as mercilessly as an indoor one, once a week for one and a half to two months. Thanks to such merciless pinching, the flowerbed will be simply gorgeous. After all, flowers appear at the tips of the stems, in the upper axils of the leaves. The more stems, the more flowers. Although it must be admitted that scientists have developed varieties in which branching is genetically determined.

Do not forget that the plant is poisonous. Eighty alkaloids contained in rose periwinkle are no joke. The skin may become irritated, so it is better to work with gloves or trim with small scissors.

In order for the catharanthus to be beautiful and bloom profusely, we must do the following:

• Water moderately but regularly (without flooding).
• Spray frequently.
• Plant a plant in loose soil to a bright place.
• Replant every year.
• Prune annually in spring.
• Fertilize three times a month in spring, summer and autumn.

If you follow all these simple care requirements, then catharanthus, as a very grateful plant, will definitely decorate your garden and home with its flowers as a sign of gratitude for your care.

Catharanthus seeds can be bought online, in a regular store, or you can collect them yourself from your own plant to sow them next year. But, we must honestly admit that only an experienced gardener can collect seeds from catarthus on his own. It's all about the temperate climate: in its conditions they simply do not start.

But on the windowsill this is quite possible. If there is additional lighting, then you can sow seeds for seedlings without waiting for spring, in February. Catharanthus seeds are not petunia seeds, which are difficult to see. Compared to petunia, they are large and powerful.

The sowing depth should not be more than one and a half centimeters. First water the soil, wait until the water is absorbed and only then start sowing the seeds. Darkness is necessary for sown seeds. Therefore, they need to be covered with a dark film and patiently wait for the result for seven to ten days, if the temperature is approximately 23-24 degrees. When sprouts appear, the film is removed.

This official version sowing seeds. But from the experience of amateur gardeners, we can come to the conclusion that seeds also germinate well without film. It is good to grow seeds in peat tablets. True, due to the small amount of soil, you need to carefully monitor the watering of the seedlings: do not overdry, do not over-wet when you remove the film.

The emerging sprouts remain at the same level for a long time - they build up their root system. But do not rush to feed sprouted plants with fertilizer. From the moment the sprouts appear until the first feeding, at least two to three weeks should pass.

The first picking is carried out if the plant already has four leaves. It is better to plant two or three plants in a pot, and then transfer them together into open ground so as not to disturb the root system.

If you try to divide these bushes, the intertwined roots will break, but the pink periwinkle endures such an operation very painfully, and then, if it does not die, it slows down its growth for a long time. The distance between such planted groups of plants should be at least thirty centimeters.

Catharanthus is a “fast” flower. Therefore, by the end of summer it will already cover the ground with a flowering mat.

If you don’t have seeds, but have the opportunity to get a cutting, then growing it in this vegetative way won’t be too difficult either. The cuttings should not be woody. To propagate periwinkle vegetatively, apical green cuttings are suitable. They take root well in water, especially if you add a few drops of a stimulant. Or you can plant the cuttings directly in wet sand mixed with fertile soil. But in this case, it is better to cover them with a plastic bag or a regular jar. Cuttings can be rooted both in the spring after pruning, and in the fall, by cutting off green shoots from a plant growing outside. But the temperature for rooting of cuttings to be successful must be at least twenty degrees.

If the periwinkle grew outside in the summer, then before bringing the plant into the room, check to see if it has been attacked by aphids. Spider mites and scale insects can also encroach on the flower. If this happened indoors, then the air is too dry for the flower. Spray the plant more often, and remove pests with a brush dipped in alcohol and treat by special means. In this case, a soap solution helps a lot, which can also be used to treat the leaves without harming the plant. Brown rust can also attack catharanthus. The leaves then become covered with “pustules” on the bottom.

Caring for catharanthus - just like any house plant, you need to watch:

• If the leaves become soft, turn yellow and die, this means there are too many straight leaves. sun rays.
• If the tips of the leaves dry out and turn yellow, then the plant does not have enough moisture in the air. This happens in winter when the heating is on.
• If the yellowed lower leaves fall off, and the rest of the foliage is bright and green, you don’t have to be alarmed - this is a natural process.
• There are few flowers - cold air. The higher the temperature, the more abundantly the catharanthus blooms.
• If the roots entwine the entire soil in the pot, the plant will stop blooming, the leaves will dry out and turn yellow.

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Catharanthus care

Catharanthus is suitable for well-lit places, but without exposure to the scorching rays of the sun. An excellent option for catharanthus would be eastern or western window sills.

On the south window you will definitely need shading, since bright sun may cause burns on the leaves.

In winter, it is recommended to move the plant to a southern windowsill, since due to lack of light the shoots stretch out and lose their decorative effect. At this time, additional illumination with phytolamps or fluorescent lamps is welcome.

In the summer, catharanthus will feel comfortable at 20-25 degrees. In winter, the temperature should be reduced to 15-18 degrees.

Since catharanthus is a representative of the tropics, a strong drop in temperature is destructive for it. Therefore, in winter the temperature should not fall below 8 degrees.

Catharanthus loves fresh air, so when the weather is warm outside, it can be taken out to the balcony, loggia or garden. In this case, it is necessary to choose a place protected from the scorching rays of the sun, rain and drafts. With the first cold snap in August, the plant should be taken into the house.

The flower tolerates temperature fluctuations relatively well, but it is better to provide it with the most comfortable conditions. Then it will delight you with abundant lush flowering.

In spring and summer Catharanthus needs abundant watering - 3-4 times a week. The soil in the pot should always be slightly moist.

in winter The frequency of the procedure is reduced to once a week. Before the next moistening, the top layer of soil should dry thoroughly.

When watering catharanthus, it is necessary to maintain a balance. Both overmoistening, which can cause root rot, and drying out of the soil, which can cause leaves to curl and fall, are detrimental to the plant. Therefore, the water from the pan should be poured out 20-30 minutes after watering. The earthen clod should not be allowed to dry out completely.

Water for irrigation should be left to settle for several days; it should be room temperature.

To plant catharanthus you will need nutritious light soil. You can buy ready-made substrate for flowering plants in the shop.

At self-cooking sand, peat, turf soil and humus should be mixed in equal proportions.

Another option is turf, leaf soil, peat and sand in a ratio of 1:2:1:0.5. Before planting, the mixture should be disinfected by spilling it with a solution of potassium permanganate.

The pot must have drainage holes. It is necessary to lay a 4-centimeter layer of drainage on the bottom.

Catharanthus grown as annuals are fed once a week. Perennial plants should be fertilized every 2 weeks from March to September. No fertilizing is needed between October and February.

The dose should be 2 times weaker than indicated on the package.

Catharanthus grown as annuals need more frequent feeding than those that are planned to be kept for the next year.

Fertilizers should be applied to moist soil after watering.. Do not exceed the concentration of fertilizer indicated on the package, as this may cause burns to the roots.

Sometimes you can alternate mineral supplements with organic ones. An ash solution (20 grams per 2 liters of water) is perfect for the latter. Once a month, instead of root feeding, you can spray the leaves. To do this, it is recommended to use the drug Epin Extra.

Catharanthus prefers high humidity environment– not less than 60%. To ensure such conditions, you can use several methods:

You should approach the spraying of catharanthus wisely. On the one hand, the plant loves high humidity, on the other hand, it is undesirable for drops to fall on the flowers. During the flowering period, spraying should be carried out very carefully.

In winter, in a room with dry air, you can spray pink periwinkle that is at rest every day, in the morning or in the evening. To do this, use warm, settled water and a fine-grained spray bottle.

In the spring, before transplanting, the shoots of the plant should be shortened by 1/3. In this way, the catharanthus can be rejuvenated and a lush flowering bush can be formed.

Cut pieces of catharanthus shoots can be used for propagation.

Pruning is necessary for catharanthus to form a compact bush, lush flowering and rejuvenation of the plant.

Catharanthus, grown as a perennial, is recommended to be pruned in the spring, since during the winter the plant becomes very elongated and loses its decorative appearance. It is recommended to cut the shoots by 1/3. If the plant becomes very elongated in the summer, formative pruning is recommended by pinching the ends of the shoots. The cut stems will produce new buds after a few weeks.

Trimmed shoots can be used to propagate periwinkle using cuttings. Although the plant can be grown indoors as a perennial, it is not recommended to keep one specimen for longer than 3 years.

This is explained by the fact that the lower leaves on the shoots dry out and fall off, and the flower “goes bald” and loses its attractiveness and decorative appearance. Young catharanthus updated by cuttings look much more presentable.

Catharanthus can be affected by brown rust, which is recognized by the presence of pustules on the back of the leaves.

Damaged parts are removed, and the plant is treated with a fungicide, for example, Fundazol.

Among the pests that threaten pink periwinkle are aphids, spider mites, and scale insects.

Pests can be controlled mechanical removal using a soap solution or treating with insecticides: Actellik, Fitoverm or Nurell-D.

Prevention of the appearance of insects is due to proper care, in particular, maintaining high humidity air.

As a rule, problems with catharanthus arise due to improper care or unfavorable conditions of detention:

• The leaves of the plant begin to turn yellow, become soft and die, mainly due to an excess of sunlight;
• If few buds appear on the catharanthus, it means it is cold. The higher the temperature, the more magnificent the flowering;
• Yellowing and curling of leaves indicates insufficient watering;
• Stems stretch when there is not enough light;
• The tips of the leaves dry out due to low air humidity;
• Poor growth and poor flowering indicate a lack of nutrients in the soil;
• Catharanthus can shed buds when there is a lack of light or moisture.

Catharanthus propagates by seeds and cuttings.

Seeds are sown in boxes filled with a mixture of peat and sand to a depth of 0.5 cm. The container is covered with polyethylene and placed in a dark, warm (20-24 degrees) place.

After the emergence of seedlings - after 5-7 days - the greenhouse is taken to a bright place. The earth is moistened as necessary.

After 10 days, the film is removed, and after 20-30 days the seedlings are planted in separate pots.

Cuttings, 10-12 cm long, cut in spring and summer. The lower leaves are torn off, the cut is processed with root. The cuttings are planted in a mixture of perlite and peat, covered with film and kept in diffused light at a temperature of 20-22 degrees.

After propagating catharanthus by cuttings, the film is removed after 3 weeks. After another 7 days, young catharanthus land on permanent place. You can plant 2-3 cuttings in one pot.

Periwinkle grows very quickly, so it needs frequent replanting. Young catharanthus require several transfers to new pots over the summer. Those plants that are grown as perennials need annual spring transplant(in March - early April).

Timely transplantation is the key good growth and abundant flowering of periwinkle. If the roots entwine the entire earthen lump, buds stop appearing, and the leaves begin to turn yellow and fall off. In view of this, timely transplantation is very important for catharanthus.

The optimal way to transplant catharanthus is transshipment. Due to the fact that the earthen ball and roots are not damaged, the plant quickly adapts to new conditions and continues to grow and develop well.

A day or two before transplanting, the periwinkle is not watered so that the earthen ball becomes stronger. A good drainage layer of expanded clay, clay shards or broken bricks is placed at the bottom of the new pot. The plant is moved to a new container, and the free space in it is filled with new soil and lightly compacted.

Before sowing, it is recommended to soak the seeds for 40 minutes in a solution of potassium permanganate (1 gram per 0.5 liter of water), then dry them for several hours on a paper napkin.

Seeds are sown in bowls or containers filled with a moistened mixture of peat, sand and soil. They deepen by 1-2 cm, after which the soil is moistened a little more using a fine-grained spray bottle. The container is covered with an opaque film and placed in a dark place. The optimal temperature for germination is 23-25 ​​degrees.

Under favorable conditions, seedlings appear in 7-10 days, after which the film is removed, the container is transferred to a well-lit place (without scorching sun), and the temperature of the contents is slightly reduced.

If in the future the catharanthus will be grown in a pot, then 2-3 specimens are planted in one container filled with substrate for adult plants. This will make the periwinkle look more lush and attractive. If planting is done in a flowerbed, then the flowers are planted one at a time.

Now you know everything about caring for catharanthus at home, as well as about growing the plant from seeds from sowing to flowering.

Photo of catharanthus in the process of care at home and in the natural environment:

Catharanthus - care and reproduction at home

Anyone who has seen the indoor catharanthus plant will agree that this spectacular bush, strewn with numerous delightful flowers, clearly brings the comfort and warmth of the southern Mediterranean islands into the house. Its name is translated from Greek as “pure, clear or flawless flower.” In this article you will read about growing catharanthus and caring for it at home. Many gardeners consider it the king of indoor flowering bushes, because catharanthus pleases its owners with endless flowering almost all year round, and requires minimal care from them after planting.

The catharanthus flower belongs to the evergreen herbaceous and subshrub plants of the Apocynaceae family. In the wild, it can be found everywhere in tropical countries. This is Cuba, Java, Africa, Indochina, Indonesia - it’s impossible to list everything. It is not possible to accurately determine its homeland, although many scientists are inclined to Madagascar, where it is most often found. There are seven or eight of its species. In the subtropics, catharanthus grows up to one and a half meters in height. At home, this bush does not exceed 60 cm. Catharanthus has been bred as a houseplant since the mid-18th century.

For a long time, catharanthus was considered one of the varieties of another flower - pink periwinkle. These plants are very similar. Both belong to the Kutrov family. Only since 1937, after lengthy debates, botanists began to classify rose catharanthus (Catharanthus roseus), as a species of evergreen perennial subshrubs, to a separate genus Catharanthus.

The indoor catharanthus flower is a perennial plant, often grown as an annual. At home, it grows no higher than 50–60 cm in height. Its erect stems are fleshy, branch at the tops, and become woody over time. The roots are powerful and taprooted. The central root reaches a depth of 20 - 30 cm, there are many lateral adventitious roots that have a strong specific odor. Young roots have no root hairs. Catharanthus leaves have an oblong shape, pointed at both ends, and a length of up to 7 cm. They are glossy, dark green in color, with a white longitudinal vein. During flowering, the bush is completely covered with many wheel-shaped flowers. Catharanthus flowers range from 3 to 5 cm in diameter. They have a regular shape of five petals with a flat corolla, the throat of which is covered with thyroid hairs. In the center of each flower there is an eye, usually in a bright contrasting color. There are hybrids with white, orange, light lilac, blue-violet petals. Catharanthus flowers are very similar to phlox flowers, but they are solitary, while in phlox they are collected in inflorescences. But, during active flowering, from May to October, such a lush cap is formed from individually blooming flowers that the decorative effect of the flower at this time is beyond all praise. Long flowering ends with the onset of cold weather. After flowering, the catharanthus fruit is formed, which is a crescent-shaped bileaflet, inside which about a dozen elongated seeds are formed.

The catharanthus plant is valued not only for its spectacular appearance and decorative effect. Its medicinal properties have been known since ancient times. Healers and healers of Madagascar and Indonesia used catharanthus to treat diabetes, cough and various tumors. The green parts of the plant contain up to 60 biologically active alkaloids. Modern research showed that this flower actually contains substances that lower blood sugar. And the alkaloids vinblastine and vincristine formed the basis of anticancer drugs that are used in modern medicine. All kinds of infusions and decoctions are prepared from the leaves and shoots of catharanthus, which treat many diseases, such as:

• poorly healing wounds and trophic ulcers;
• fibroids, polyps, prostate adenomas;
• diseases of teeth and gums;
• bronchopulmonary diseases;
• hypertension and diabetes.

It is important to know that all parts of the catharanthus are poisonous. It is not recommended to prepare any medicine from it yourself! May occur side effects, allergic reactions, burns. There are contraindications. You can use drugs from catharanthus only under supervision and on the recommendation of doctors.

All decorative series of varieties and hybrids of this flower are a variety of pink catharanthus. They differ from it in the size of the bush and different shades of petals. We will introduce you to the most popular of them.

Catharanthus Aristocrat. This is a low bush, 50 cm in height. The flowers are relatively large - up to 5 cm in diameter. The color range is varied - from pure white to dark red. A contrasting eye usually sparkles in the middle. This flower is grown not only as a houseplant, but also as a garden plant, decorating borders in flower beds and paths with it.

Catharanthus Pacifica. This is a low compact bush, 25 - 30 cm in height, and 15 - 20 cm in crown diameter. Characterized by early flowering and ease of care. The flowers are large, the characteristic eye in the middle stands out clearly.

Depending on the shade of the petals, the Pacifica variety has its own varieties:

• Pacifica Burgundy - has flowers of a rich wine color with a white eye;
• Pacifica White - has white flowers with a red eye;
• Pacifica Apricot - has apricot-colored flowers with a red center;
• Pacifica Ice Pink - has soft pink flowers with a red eye.

In the eighties of the last century, a number of new spectacular varieties of catharanthus appeared. Here are some of them that are still popular:

Variety series Cooler. Small, strongly branching bushes, up to 40 cm in height, united here. Their flowers are round, large, up to 5 cm in diameter. With a bright contrasting eye in the center.

The varieties in this series include the following:

• Grape Cooler - lavender-pink flowers with a red center;
• Peppermint Cooler - white flowers with a bright red center;
• Red Cooler - red flowers.

Sortoseries First Kiss (First Kiss, First Kiss). Low, 30 - 40 cm in height, neat bushes, have beautiful crown and at least 13 shades of colors. This is the most popular and titled series of catharanthus. At competitions of flower growers of countries North America Catharanthus of this variety series have won prestigious prizes, in particular the blue-violet cultivar First Kiss Blueberry won high awards in the USA and Canada.

Variety series Cascade. Here are ampelous catharanthus, up to 15 cm high and with long flexible shoots that either creep or hang down. It blooms with large flowers, up to 5 cm in diameter. The most popular varieties of this variety series:

Catharanthus ampelous Titan. The long lashes hanging down reach 75 cm in length. Numerous bright red flowers glow brightly on the dark green glossy leaves. This variety is great for growing in pots.

• White - with snow-white flowers;
• Deep Rose - with pink flowers;
• Cascade Cherry bark - with cherry flowers;
• Bark Cascade Shelf Dot – with white flowers;
• Bark cascade Medgenta - with flowers of lilac and burgundy color.

When growing catharanthus at home, it is important to follow some simple rules so that you grow a wonderful evergreen bush.

All parts of catharanthus are poisonous and contain alkaloids. Work with it must be carried out with gloves to avoid allergies or poisoning.

Catharanthus is a moisture-loving crop. Abundant flowering directly depends on the sufficiently high humidity of the surrounding air and substrate. Catharanthus prefer high air humidity. If humidity levels drop below 60%, it is necessary to spray the surrounding air and, with caution, the plants themselves. Moreover, the leaves can be sprayed, but the flowers are not advisable! To increase the humidity in the room, place containers of water next to the catharanthus plantings, and place the pots themselves in trays with wet expanded clay or wet pebbles.

Water your flowers regularly. The root system should not be allowed to dry out! You will immediately know about insufficient watering by the curling leaves of the plant. If you notice quickly and water soon, they will straighten out.

But there should be no stagnation of water in the pan and waterlogging of the soil. Try to choose the frequency of watering so that the soil moisture is consistently average. Water no earlier than the top layer of soil dries to a depth of 2 - 3 cm. If you plan to save the plant until next year, significantly reduce watering in the autumn-winter period. Keep the earthen ball slightly moist. If the air in the room is dry, spray the leaves constantly.

The plant prefers diffused light. He will be most comfortable on the windowsills of eastern and western directions. Although, even on the south side, provided the pot is protected from direct sunlight at midday, the catharanthus will feel excellent. It is not necessary to place the flower pot on the windowsill itself. It grows well in slight shade and looks great on a shelf lit by diffused sunlight. If it winters indoors, it will also need good lighting. Otherwise, the stems will stretch upward, and the decorative effect of the flower will suffer. If there is insufficient lighting, use fluorescent lamps.

The ideal temperature for growing catharanthus at home is considered to be 20 - 25 degrees Celsius. This is in spring- summer period for long-term flower maintenance. IN winter time you need to find a cooler place for it and maintain the temperature there within 15 degrees, because there is no place for it on the windowsill, next to heating devices. Perhaps you have an insulated loggia. But you need to make sure that the temperature does not drop at all - the catharanthus may not tolerate a prolonged drop below 10 degrees.

If you are not going to save the flower in the winter and plan to throw it away in the fall, after flowering, then the warmer the location, the more abundantly it will bloom. Moreover, the flower feels great in the warm season outdoors. In the spring, as soon as the air outside warms up above 18 degrees, the pot of catharanthus can be placed on the balcony or veranda, preferably under the roof, because flower planting must be protected from precipitation, drafts and direct sun. With the first cold snap, in August-September, it is better to bring the catharanthus into the living room. Until October, it will still delight you with its magnificent flowering on the windowsill.

Catharanthus will grow well in loose, light, fertile soil. Purchased soil for flowering indoor plants, for example, geraniums, is suitable for it. It is also not difficult to prepare a soil mixture yourself from leaf and turf soil, adding a little peat and coarse river sand.

In order for the catharanthus to bloom long and abundantly, it needs constant, fairly intense feeding. If your flower is an annual one, feed it once a week, adding liquid fertilizer for flowering indoor plants in water for irrigation. Liquid fertilizer for indoor roses is suitable. But don’t overdo it, read the doses on the package.

If the catharanthus will remain as a perennial after flowering, its strength must be conserved. Therefore, fertilizing should be done less frequently during flowering, once every 2 weeks, and in a dose reduced by half. After flowering, from October to February, fertilizing should be stopped completely.

Catharanthus is a fast-growing flower. If you plant it in a small pot, it will very quickly outgrow it, the roots will not fit in and will block the drainage holes. Therefore, immediately choose a large pot so that it will last for a year of the flower’s life. As we already wrote above, the root system develops well, the roots grow up to 20 - 35 cm in length. Place a good layer of drainage, 3 - 4 cm, at the bottom of the planting container. Use expanded clay, pebbles or other suitable material. And then fill the pot with the prepared soil mixture. Don't forget to add a little humus for nutritional value. During the annual transplantation of perennial catharanthus, each time choose a pot 3–5 cm larger and wider than the previous one.

For such a fast-growing plant as catharanthus, pruning the shoots is a necessary procedure. In a perennial crop, after a period of winter rest, shoots that have elongated during the winter are cut off by a third of their length. Remove damaged and dried branches and give the bush the desired shape. This pruning at the beginning of spring will rejuvenate the flower and give it strength for new growth.

Pinching the ends of the shoots will help to form a compact, beautiful crown of young catharanthus. Their upward growth will stop, and the growth of lateral branches will make the crown thicker and more decorative.

But you will have to constantly monitor the decorative appearance of your pet during flowering. Wilted flowers and yellowed leaves at the bottom of the shoots must be removed regularly - they greatly spoil the appearance of the plant.

If you grow catharanthus as a perennial, then it will need an annual replanting in early spring, in March.

Return the flower to a warm, bright room. Inspect. Do necessary trimming. Select a pot for replanting that is 3–5 cm larger than before. Place drainage there - it should be at least 4 cm. Replant by transferring the flower along with the soil. Try not to injure the root system. Add soil of the same composition to the pot in which the catharanthus grew last season. If the soil is very different in composition, the flower may not bloom. According to the reaction, neutral or slightly acidic soil is suitable. Remember this and always use one type of soil, for example, for flowering geraniums.

You may need to replant your flower more than once a year. If during the active flowering phase the lower leaves suddenly begin to turn yellow and the flowers fall off, it is possible that the root system no longer has enough space in the pot. You can see the roots poking out of the drainage holes in the bottom of the pot. This is a signal that the catharanthus urgently needs to be transplanted into a larger container.

If the catharanthus is difficult to remove from the pot, try watering it. The plastic pot may need to be cut or broken, but when removing the flower, be careful not to damage its delicate root system. Otherwise, the catharanthus will stop blooming.

If all the rules good care If you regularly take care of the flower, the catharanthus will also try and stun you with its fantastic flowering!

We recommend not keeping your perennial for more than three years. Any catharanthus of this age begins to grow, its flowers become small, its shoots become clumsy. The plant loses its attractiveness and decorativeness. It is better to part with him, taking care in advance about his descendants, that is, about reproduction.

After the enchanting flowering, the powers of the catharanthus are depleted, and you need to try to make it bloom again next year. For this reason, flower growers often grow catharanthus as an annual plant, and after it finishes flowering, they simply throw it away. After all, the difficulties of preserving a flower in winter, problems with temperature, humidity, lighting of its wintering place, cannot be compared with the rooting of its shoots or cuttings. By the beginning of the new season, you will have a new flower, full of strength and desire to bloom, without any problems.

Catharanthus is propagated in three ways: by growing from seeds, rooting cuttings and dividing the bush.

Buy catharanthus seeds in special stores. Their seeds will not have time to ripen during the summer flowering. Their natural maturation is possible only in tropical conditions. If you still set out to get your seeds, be patient. The bush will have to be grown all autumn and winter indoors, maintaining constant temperature, humidity and good lighting, as in the tropics. Your seeds will probably only ripen in the spring.

Seeds can be sown at any time of the year. Just keep in mind that catharanthus blooms after germination in 60 - 70 days, that is, young bushes will bloom in two to three months. Therefore, it is better, from the point of view of caring for them - in terms of temperature, humidity and lighting, to do this in early spring.

Prepared seeds (treated with potassium permanganate and epin) are sown in containers with nutrient soil to a depth of no more than 1 cm. The soil is carefully moistened using a spray bottle with warm, settled water, and the container lid is closed. You can use any containers that are convenient for you, but be sure to cover them with something transparent - glass or polyethylene. Germination will be better done in a warm place dark place. In a week or two, shoots will appear. The containers are taken out to a lighted place. The temperature is maintained at 23 – 26 degrees Celsius. Ventilate once a day better in the morning. The sprouts sit at the same level for a long time, about a month, growing roots. When three or four leaves appear on the seedlings, the catharanthus are planted in separate pots. Do not forget about the rapid growth of young plants; immediately take a larger pot than you would like, so that soon, during flowering, you do not have to replant the flower again.

Pay special attention to preparing the soil mixture. An excellent option is a mixture of peat, humus, turf soil and coarse sand in equal parts. If you use ready-made soil, select a substrate suitable for blooming indoor flowers.

To propagate by cuttings (cuttings), green cuttings are cut from the tops of the shoots of catharanthus. Choose a method for rooting the cuttings - in water or in a substrate.

Water for rooting should be settled or boiled with the addition of some growth stimulant. Place the glass in a bright, warm place. They are waiting for the spine to appear. Add water as needed. The roots will appear very soon. Then the cuttings are planted in a pot with a regular substrate. Care for it like an adult plant.

You can root the cuttings in a container with moist soil under a film. Ventilate the plantings from time to time and water them as the soil dries out. When the cutting shows signs of new growth, the film can be removed. Root cuttings with reserve in case of their death.

It is best to harvest and plant cuttings in the spring, after pruning the old bush. But it is possible in the fall. The optimal temperature for rooting catharanthus cuttings is 22 - 25 degrees Celsius.

Video: how to propagate catharanthus from cuttings.

This propagation method is used when transplanting an adult plant into new pots. Usually this happens in early spring. Depending on the size of the root system, catharanthus can be easily divided into two or three parts. Remove the flower from the pot and try to gently shake off the soil from the roots. Decide where to divide the root system. Use a sharp, well-disinfected tool to divide the bush. Treat the cut areas with crushed activated carbon. Plant each specimen in a separate pot according to all the rules.

If you plant your indoor flower in a flowerbed at your dacha for the summer, then you need to think about how to preserve the catharanthus in the winter. After all, your sissy will not survive winter, even a mild one, outside. Carefully dig up the plant in early October. Cut its branches to two-thirds of the length. Place the flower in a spacious pot to accommodate the entire root system. Fill the pot to the top with a mixture of sand and soil. Place in a cool room with a temperature of 15 - 17 degrees. Try to find one for wintering in an apartment. Let it stand there until the onset of spring and warmth. There is no need to water it in winter. When the air outside warms up above 18 degrees, you can plant the catharanthus rhizome again in the flowerbed.

You can always tell by the appearance of a plant whether it is healthy or something is wrong with it. Catharanthus itself signals unfavorable conditions of its maintenance by its appearance. You need to monitor the plant and, if necessary, take measures to correct your mistakes.

Let's look at the most common problems in growing catharanthus.

• Small dark tubercles or spots appeared on the upper surface of the leaves. On the bottom there is something in the form of pustules. These are signs of a disease of many indoor flowers - leaf rust. The reason is frequent waterlogging of the soil at high air humidity. Or when replanting, heavy soil or soil contaminated with rust fungi was used. Treatment is carried out with fungicides (read about diseases of indoor flowers). Replant the treated plant in new soil.
• The leaves on the shoots became limp, turned yellow and fell off. This happens if the pot is on a windowsill unprotected from the sun. Place the flower further into the room or protect it from direct sunlight with blinds or curtains.
• The tips of the leaves have turned yellow. This happens when the humidity in the room is too low. In winter this happens due to central heating. The pot must be placed in high tray with wet expanded clay and keep it away from heating appliances. You can place a wide container of water next to the flower. If there are no flowers on the catharanthus, its leaves should be sprayed with settled water at room temperature. All this should increase the humidity in the room. The tips of the leaves of the catharanthus will stop turning yellow.
• The lower leaves on the shoots turn yellow and fall off. This is a natural process for catharanthus. Remove them from the plant regularly so that the decorative appearance of the flower does not suffer.
• There are few flowers on your catharanthus. Poor flowering usually occurs if the catharanthus is cold. Move the flower pot to a warmer, bright place - and it will thank you with abundant flowering.
• The leaves begin to turn yellow and flowering stops. Examine the flower pot. If it is not large, if catharanthus roots appear from the drainage holes, it means that your pet has become cramped in this pot and it’s time to transplant it into a wider and deeper pot. A little time will pass and the plant will come to life and begin to bloom.
• Catharanthus began to drop its buds. This occurs when there is insufficient attention to the flower: poor lighting, lack of moisture in the soil or low air humidity.
• Young leaves are falling from the tops of the shoots. Perhaps you rarely water the flower, it lacks moisture. At the same time, check other nuances of care: is it warm, light, and whether any insects are biting it.

We introduced you to the indoor catharanthus flower. Believe me, you will spend less time caring for it than reading this article! This is completely unpretentious plant, but so sweet and responsive to any attention to him from the florist. The good thing about catharanthus is that this small, compact bush blooms profusely with bright acrylic flowers from spring until October. At the same time, it grows quickly and reproduces easily. Knowing the simple rules of caring for it, you will always have a grateful plant in your home, ready to decorate the interior of your home all year round.

In the Kutrovye family there is a decorative annual subshrub called caranthus. Growing it as a potted plant makes it a perennial. It reaches a height of 20 to 60 cm, depending on the variety. The flowers are collected in a spike-shaped corolla, each no more than 4 cm in diameter. They are very similar to the buds of phlox. The main color is deep pink. But hybrid varieties boast a more diverse palette. The stem is erect. The leaves are large (up to 6 cm), dark green, oblong.

The flower loves light very much, but it should not be exposed to direct sunlight. Watering should be moderate, without drying out the soil; it is better to spray the plant after sunset.

A healthy catharanthus can only be grown by strictly following all recommendations. Do not forget about the unpleasant property of the plant - the flowers are poisonous and can lead to serious health problems. In a house where there are small children, it is better to avoid keeping such a pet. Famous medicinal properties and is actively used in folk medicine. There are contraindications.

Growing and caring for a beautiful flower

Location and lighting

Preferably plenty of light, but no direct sunlight, especially in the first half of the day. Responds gratefully to diffused, soft light. These can be windows on the east or west side of the house. A window sill in the north will not provide enough ultraviolet radiation. In this case, the stems will begin to stretch upward.

Temperature

Ideal indicators: in summer about 23 degrees, and in winter 17-18. In the summer, they arrange “vacations” by placing a bright, handsome man on a balcony, terrace or gazebo. The crop must be protected from drafts and gusts of wind. When kept outdoors, they also provide shelter from precipitation. If the conditions do not meet the requirements and the plant has acquired an unhealthy appearance, then it is enough to return it to a favorable climate, and it will quickly return to normal.

Choosing a suitable pot

Required big size due to the rapid growth rate. A drainage layer is required for each vessel. When transplanting, the new container should be 2 sizes larger than the previous one.

Soil - we prepare it ourselves

Optimal soil mixture composition:

• leaf soil;
• sand;
• peat in equal parts.

A small amount of humus will help make it more nutritious. You can purchase ready-made soil at a specialty store. Suitable soil for geraniums. Before planting, it is disinfected (by dousing it with boiling water or a weak solution of manganese).

Watering and humidity

Moderate watering is necessary; it is important to prevent the soil from drying out.

Plays an important role. It is unacceptable for the soil to dry out. This can completely stop development and prevent flowering. The leaves are the first to signal a water shortage: they begin to turn yellow and curl. This can be corrected by abundant watering and spraying. Moisture is used exclusively purified, at room temperature. It is better to leave tap water for 2-3 days.

All drops that flow into the pan are poured out so that the root system does not rot. Spraying in the summer is best done after sunset, daily. Water is used at room temperature. Watering and spraying are significantly reduced from October to March.

Fertilizers

Regular support is required from March to September. Fertilizers are applied every 10 days. Are used universal complexes for indoor crops. Once a season, add a small amount of ash. With the onset of autumn and until March, feeding stops. For foliar fertilizers Epin-extra solution is ideal. The bush is sprayed with it every month.

All solutions are applied only after watering. Do not exceed the dose indicated on the package. This leads to burns of the root system.

Trimming

Molding is carried out in mandatory before changing the potty. And every 5 years, the catharanthus is rejuvenated: the central shoot, which has already become lignified, is cut off and rooted. If this is not done, the representative of the flora will stretch the stems and lose its decorative effect. Pruning is necessary to create a lush and voluminous appearance of the bush. It is held in the spring. During winter period all the stems stretch out and the green space loses its shape. If the need arises in the summer, then this is acceptable. But summer molding makes flowering later.

Sanitary pruning is also carried out if necessary. Damaged or yellowed shoots are removed. But too much pruning is not required.

Transplanting a plant

Held annually for young representatives. Adults require it no more often than every 3 years. A thorough inspection of the roots is carried out to identify dry or rotten ones. If there are any, they are carefully cut off and the wound is treated. The instrument is pre-disinfected. Be sure to keep the earthen lump intact. To do this, watering is stopped 2 days before transshipment. A drainage layer is required in a new flowerpot. A plant with soil is carefully placed on top of it.

The process is completed by adding the missing amount of soil. It is lightly compacted. Water the plant immediately, and apply fertilizers only 15 days after transplantation.

Pests and diseases

These are scale insects - when you find them, wipe the occupied areas of the flower with a damp cloth

If you were able to detect uninvited guests immediately, then it will help you deal with them mechanical cleaning. It is enough to wipe the plant with a napkin soaked in a soap solution. But, if the insects went unnoticed for a long time, then you will have to use special chemicals- actellik, actar, etc.

Stains

Appearance of traces Brown may be a signal of violation of care rules: errors during planting, ultraviolet deficiency, lack of nutrients. Having eliminated all discrepancies, the catharanthus will be restored. But there are cases when the appearance of spots is a sign of a bacterial disease. Then you need to spray it with a solution of Maxim or Foundationazol.

Flower propagation

Seeds

Wait and effective method. They should be sown in March, deepening them 1-2 cm into the soil. For a larger number of seedlings, the choice is made in favor of large dark brown seeds. The bowl is covered with film and moved to a dark, cool room. A week later, when the first shoots appear, you can move them to a lighted place and spray them. Dive into separate cups after 3 leaves appear. For a more lush crown, seedlings are pinched.

Cuttings

Those apical shoots that remain after pruning and have not yet become lignified can be used as planting material. Their length should be at least 13 cm. Carefully lubricate each cut with root and place it in a box for rooting. To prepare the substrate you will need: sand, moist soil, perlite and peat, in equal parts. To create a greenhouse effect, cover with a transparent cap made of glass, film or plastic.

You can plant them in flowerpots immediately after the root system appears - 4 weeks. You can also use sand or water.

Dividing the bush

A simple procedure that requires attention and caution. It is better to do this when replanting, so as not to disturb the inner contents of the pot once again. Carefully remove the indoor culture from the container and use sharp knife divide into 3-4 parts.

Treat the cut area with crushed activated carbon to prevent infection or rotting. You can transplant them into separate containers immediately.

How to choose a plant in a store

Before choosing a plant in the market, it is carefully inspected. Do not forget that the plant is in a state of severe stress: during transportation from the greenhouse to the store, from trading floor to your new house. Therefore, it is necessary to buy exclusively healthy and strong green space.

The first criterion is health. The catharanthus should be free of stains, yellowing, traces of insects and other signs of illness. The soil may be damp, but not wet. If the container in which it is contained is for transportation, then it needs to be replanted at home. The best time to purchase a pet is spring or summer. During this period, transportation and changes in conditions will not have such an impact on his health.

Types and varieties

Today there are more than 100 species, including hybrid ones. The most popular of them:

• parasol. Most known varieties: first kiss;
• cooler. Varieties: Grape Cooler, Jayo;
• Albus. The most popular: viper, cascade apple blossom;
• oselatus. Varieties: Wittesse.

Caring for catharanthus at home is quite simple, but it requires knowledge of some features.

Catharanthus is a perennial tropical plant. The flower has the appearance of a bush with straight stems that branch at the tops. The leaves of the shrub are dark green in color, they reach a length of 7 cm. When the flowering period begins, the plant becomes strewn with flowers, most often with five petals. Catharanthus loves warmth and grows in the wild in the forests of Madagascar, India, Cuba, Indonesia, etc. Under natural conditions, the bush reaches 1.5 m in height, and in cooler climates its height reaches 60 cm.

Varieties of catharanthus

The name "Cataranthus" is translated from Greek as "clear flower". In nature, 8 species of this plant are known, but as a result of selection, decorative varieties, which are widespread in Europe. The following 4 varieties are most common:

1. Albus- blooms with white flowers.
2. Parasol- is a low-growing representative of the species, and its flowers are white with a red pigment in the center.
3. Cooler- shrubs from this series have flowers of various shades of pink and red.
4. Ocellatus- flowers are similar in color to Parasol, but this species is not short-growing.

Many gardeners call catharanthus cayenne jasmine, and catharanthus rosea - pink periwinkle. Pink periwinkle blooms a very beautiful deep crimson color and is one of the most popular varieties of this plant.

This amazing flower can grow both in open ground and in pots as an indoor flower. Depending on the growing method, the features of caring for the plant are determined.

This plant is unsafe; it contains alkaloids and can cause severe poisoning and an allergic reaction. Therefore, it is necessary to handle the flower carefully; it is also not recommended to plant it in places where small children and animals walk.

Growing from seeds

Growing pink periwinkle (as well as other varieties of this plant) is done using the seedling method. As you know, catharanthus is considered perennial flower, but due to its natural heat-loving nature, it does not survive the winter, and the seeds do not have time to ripen. Therefore, some gardeners prefer to purchase them again, and some dig up the bush and send it to a warm room for the winter.

As a rule, seeds are sown for seedlings in late winter - early spring. The seeds are pre-soaked in a manganese solution. The solution is prepared at the rate of 2 g of manganese per 1 liter of cool water. Before carrying out the procedure, the seeds are first wrapped in gauze folded in half. The procedure itself lasts no more than 40 minutes. After soaking, the seeds are opened and left to dry on gauze for 2 hours. The main thing is not to leave them under the scorching rays of the sun, otherwise they will burn.

Next, the seeds are sown to a depth of 2 cm in a shallow box; the substrate should be loose with nutrients and good conductivity of air and moisture. The box is left indoors at a temperature of 25°C, having previously covered it with glass.

For all types of this plant, seed sowing is the same, but this does not apply to ampelous catharanthus; growing from seeds involves sowing directly into a permanent container, since this representative of catharanthus does not like transplanting.

After the seedlings appear, and this happens after 14-21 days, they need to be moved to a room where it is cooler.

You can plant the sprouts in separate containers when 3 leaves appear on the stem. It is recommended to harden the seedlings at above-zero temperatures and periodically take them out onto the balcony.

Growing in open ground

Pink catharanthus is planted in open ground at the end of spring, when the weather outside is stable and warm. The air temperature outside should be at least 25°C.

For planting, you need to properly prepare the soil. The flowerbed where the flower will be located is first dug up and gravel is added. Form a hole of the required depth, and add drainage and a layer of soil to the bottom, after which the flower is placed there. It is necessary to choose a well-lit and warm place for the plant, but the bush should not be exposed to direct sunlight. You should not plant catharanthus in places where there is a lot of moisture and shade, since such conditions are destructive for it. Catharanthus does not take root on acidic soil, so it’s better to mix it with wood ash or lime it.

Shrub care is simple. Like other plants, it needs watering, pruning, fertilizing and removing weeds around the bush. Particular attention must be paid to watering; the flower requires moderate and regular watering. The soil should not dry out, but should not be very wet. A sign that the flower does not have enough moisture are curled leaves. It is advisable to maintain air humidity and spray the bush with water daily, and on very hot days 2 times a day.

Feeding with a universal mixture for ornamental plants will be beneficial, this is especially true in the spring, when the plant needs abundant nutrition.

Pruning the bush in the summer consists of removing yellowed and broken branches, and sanitary pruning will promote the growth of catharanthus.

You can add pink periwinkle to the flowerbed annual plants the same color or create a contrasting combination.

Growing at home

For catharanthus, growing from seeds at home is also possible. It is necessary to take into account that the flower grows quickly and should initially be planted in a large pot. When planting, drainage is poured into the bottom of the pot and a layer of substrate is placed on it. The latter can be prepared independently from peat, soil and sand. All components are taken in equal proportions. And to make the plant better accepted, you can add a little humus for nutritional value.

Caring for indoor catharanthus consists of regular watering, feeding with nutrients and spraying. Water for irrigation and spraying should be at room temperature and preferably settled. It is imperative to remove excess water from the pan so that the roots do not begin to rot.

The place for the pot must be chosen in the west or east side. If you place it on the north window, the flower will have little light, but in the south there will be a lot. It is also important that the plant is not exposed to harsh sunlight.

You can feed catharanthus with any fertilizer for decorative indoor plants.

The flower is replanted every year, and when replanting, pruning is done to form a crown. It is important not to moisten the flower the day before transplanting: this is necessary so that an earthen lump has time to form around the roots.

It is worth remembering that this plant contains toxic substances, so you should not place it in an accessible place for children and animals.

Reproduction of catharanthus

This plant propagates by seeds, root division and cuttings. Let's look at these methods in more detail:

1. Sowing seeds. This method involves preparing the seeds, sowing them in the soil and causing sprouts to appear. The first shoots appear after about 20 days.
2. Root division. This procedure is recommended to be carried out in the spring, when the bush is planted in the ground after wintering. For these purposes, it is necessary to choose a specimen with a strong root system, which can be divided into 2 parts. When dividing, it is important not to damage the roots or remove all the soil from them.
3. Cuttings. Propagation by cuttings takes a little longer than when using seeds. It is considered a reliable way to obtain strong seedlings. To propagate catharanthus by cuttings, you need to select and cut cuttings from an adult bush. Remove leaves from them to the top. Place each cutting in water for 1 day with the addition of 1 drop of biogrowth stimulator. Then transfer them to clean, settled water. After roots appear (approximately 25-30 days), transplant into soil to strengthen.

So this one is very beautiful and evergreen flower unpretentious in care, but requires caution in handling. We can say with confidence that catharanthus deserves attention and can become a worthy decoration for any home.

Catharanthus is a perennial. Very beautiful during the flowering period. He came to us from Madagascar, so he loves warmth and moisture. In nature, one of its species is found in Sri Lanka and India. Winters in open ground only in the southern regions: Kuban, Western Georgia, Western Transcaucasia, in the absence of low winter temperatures. It has become famous as a culture of decorative floriculture since the 18th century.

The plant is poisonous, but at the same time has a unique medicinal composition. Contains alkaloids. Based on it, therapeutic drugs are produced for chemotherapy in oncology. Tinctures from catharanthus help get rid of polyps and fibroids. Many recipes traditional medicine contain it in their composition. You should not study the therapeutic effect at home.

Description of the flower

Pink catharanthus (Vinca rosea)

Catharanthus is a perennial subshrub. The height of a plant grown in a greenhouse can reach up to 0.6 m. In a potted culture it is much lower, since regular pruning is necessary. Without pruning, the flower loses its decorative effect. The branches are stretched and exposed.

Recently, it has been practiced to grow it as an annual and use it in garden design. The straight stems branch at the top and are covered with dark green leaves. The shape of the leaf blade is lanceolate, the surface is shiny, the size is about 7 cm.

Flowers are arranged in the axils singly or in groups. Various colors: white, pink, lavender, blue, purple, you can’t list everything. Every year they create new hybrids of unique colors. In indoor conditions it blooms all year round. Plants planted in the garden in the spring provide flowers all summer long and finish flowering in the fall.

Thanks to successful work Breeders have created many interspecific hybrids of catharanthus in a wide variety of colors. The most popular ones have been combined into a variety series:

• cooler;
• Ocellatus;
• Parasol;
• First Kiss;
• Cascade;
• Pacifica;

Plants related to variety series Culer- These are lush, highly branched bushes. Height 0.4 m.

The most popular varieties:

1. Grape Cooler. The flowers are lavender-pink, the eye is pink.
2. Peppermint Cooler. The flowers are white, the eyes are red.
3. Red Cooler. The flowers are red.

IN First Kiss variety series, small varieties with flowers up to 5 cm in diameter are combined.

Varieties of 13 colors have been developed. New - First Kiss Blueberry. The color is blue-violet.

Catharanthus flower CATHARANTHUS roseus ‘First Kiss Blueberry’

Series Mediterranean, Cascade combine varieties that were bred for cultivation in hanging planters. They produce long shoots (1.5 m). The flowers are large.

Catharanthus ampelous Cora Cascade

Pacifica. Plants of this series are unpretentious, they begin to bloom early, from weather conditions depend little. In the south they can grow in open ground. Grows well indoors or in container culture.

Popular varieties:

1. Pacifica Burgundy. Carmine red, white eye.
2. Pacifica White (Color white).
3. Pacifica Apricot (Apricot color. Center red).
4. Pacifica Ice Pink (Color pink).

Catharanthus is propagated by seeds, cuttings, and dividing the bush. To obtain new plants of original colors, it is worth purchasing new seeds interesting varieties and grow seedlings at home.

When to sow seedlings

Sowing of seeds is carried out in February or early March. The best time to obtain seedlings is mid-February. By the end of May, strong seedlings will have time to form.

Preparing soil and seeds

Before sowing, it is necessary to treat the seeds. Prepare the solution:

1. Water – 1 l.
2. Potassium permanganate – 2 g.

You will also need gauze or a bandage. Wrap the seeds and dip them in the pink solution. Keep for at least half an hour. Be sure to rinse and dry. The treatment should be carried out the day before sowing.

Soil requirements, it must be:

• fertile;
• wet;
• PH = 5.5;
• without excess salt.

Take equal quantities:

• peat;
• sand;
• humus;
• leafy soil.

At the time of buying ready soil choose a soil mixture for pelargoniums. Pour boiling water over the soil prepared at home. For disinfection.

Pour the treated soil into containers prepared for sowing. Compact the soil and water it. When the soil is saturated with moisture, spread the seeds. Cover them with a 1.5 centimeter layer of soil. It is recommended to cover the containers with black film. It is believed that seeds should germinate in the dark.

Sprouts will appear in 7 days if indoors optimal temperature air (25 C). At lower temperatures, the germination rate decreases. Remove the black film as soon as the plants hatch.

Place containers with seedlings on the windowsill. If there is a choice, then on the western window. After 14 days, young plants can be fed. The Uniflor-rost fertilizer has proven itself well.

Plants that have reached 7 cm and have at least two leaves are ready for picking. Take the same soil as for sowing, in the same proportions. Take separate containers. Dive carefully. Without damaging the root system.

You can transplant two or three sprouts into one pot. With such a landing you get lush bushes. Seedling care includes:

• spraying;
• watering every two weeks;
• feeding.

At the end of spring, prepare a sunny place for planting. Dig up the earth thoroughly. Prepare planting holes, place them no closer than 30 cm from each other. Drainage is necessary. Place it on the bottom and sprinkle a layer of soil on top. The roots do not like stagnant moisture.

Plant seedlings after warm weather sets in. In June, when the air warms up to 20°C, plant the plants in the holes. Water.

Watering

Catharanthus is a tropical plant and requires moisture. All summer it is necessary to monitor the condition of the soil to prevent drying out. In rainy weather, ensure ventilation of bushes during continuous planting. This will protect against diseases. In addition to watering, carry out irrigation. Do this in the evenings or early in the morning.

Topping

Pinching the top of the shoot will help you get a decorative catharanthus bush. Removing the crowns stimulates the appearance of new shoots. More shoots - more flowers. The more abundant the flowering, the higher the decorative effect.

Feeding

To carry out fertilizing you will need a special complex fertilizer, apply it to the soil every ten days.

Catharanthus varieties bred in Lately easy to grow in an apartment. The rules of care are quite simple. If they are followed, you can ensure long and abundant flowering.

Considering the love of catharanthus for diffused light, place containers on windows facing west or east, protect them from direct sunlight. Leaves may get burned.

In the summer, containers with flowering catharanthus can be used to decorate a balcony, terrace, or gazebo. The main thing is to protect it from rain and wind. At the end of summer, bring it into the house.

For winter maintenance, sufficient room illumination and a temperature of 18 C are necessary. It is not recommended to allow the roots to become overcooled or the soil to become waterlogged. Therefore, watering is carried out less often in winter than in summer, fertilizing is completely excluded.

In summer, pots with plants can be placed in trays filled with pebbles and water, this will help avoid drying out the soil. In addition, spray the plant with warm water every day. The plant blooms in summer and actively develops, needs nutrients. Fertilize every ten days. It is convenient to use liquid complex fertilizers.

Pruning is mandatory for indoor plants. At the beginning of spring, each shoot must be shortened. Leave 2⁄3 of the length. This technique:

• rejuvenates the plant;
• allows you to achieve a beautiful shape;
• promotes flowering.

The indoor plant needs to be replanted every year. The root system of catharanthus is actively developing. A sign that the pot is small is yellow leaves and lack of flowers. The best time to transplant is spring. Required:

• larger pot;
• drainage;
• soil as for pelargonium.

Catharanthus can be propagated vegetatively:

• Cuttings;
• Dividing the bush.

Cuttings

Cuttings are cut early in the spring; healthy, strong branches are selected from adult bushes. The crowns (12 cm) are cut off. The lower leaves of the cutting are removed and placed in a solution with a growth stimulator. At this time, prepare a container with soil consisting of fertile soil and sand (1:1), water it with warm water.

Prepared cuttings are placed into the prepared substrate. Cover them with a jar. The air in the room should be warm. Not lower than 20 C. The cuttings will take root and grow in three weeks. Until this time, moisten the substrate and spray the cuttings. Rooted plants are transplanted into pots.

Division

Divide in spring: March, April. Divide the mature bush. Plant the cuttings in separate pots or in a flower bed in the garden.

Main plant pests:

• spider mite;
• felt;
• scale insect.

Regular inspection of the bushes will help stop the spread of the pest in time. You need to be especially careful in the fall, when returning pots of flowers to the house.

If aphids are found. Prepare a soap solution and rinse the flower well with it. In indoor conditions, plants are regularly sprayed with water; this is a good disease prevention. If pests are found, treat the bush with any insecticide.

Symptoms of excessive light: soft leaves, lack of shine, yellowing. Shading or moving to a less lit area will help.

Yellow tips of the leaves indicate dry air. It is necessary to spray or install a humidifier in the room.

Catharanthus - growing from seeds: video

The time spent caring for the plant will not be in vain. Catharanthus will delight you for a long time with its wonderful flowers and decorate your home and garden.

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