Why hyacinths don’t bloom, what to do. Hyacinth flowers: planting and care in open ground and indoor conditions

Hyacinth is a flower of the asparagus family, with a pronounced pleasant aroma. This universal plant, which is grown indoors and outdoors. But in a pot it will not bloom repeatedly: this is only possible when transplanted into open ground.

Why are hyacinths grown in pots?

Flowers are grown both in pots and in open ground

Hyacinth - perennial bulbous flower, quickly responding to creation favorable conditions lush flowering. After which the bulb needs rest, which is otherwise called a “resting state.” During this period, plant organs begin to form in it, which will delight with its beauty for the next season. These are natural processes for all bulbs, and hyacinth is no exception.

But at home you can change the natural rhythms of the plant and get beautiful flowers by the desired date. This process is forced and is called “forcing.” There are two possible options: in water and soil.

Depending on the timing of cultivation, three types of forcing are distinguished:

• early (by the end of December);
• mid-early (obtaining flowers in mid-winter);
• late (blooming in early spring).

Important! The bulb can gain strength for further flowering only in natural conditions. To do this, it is transplanted into the ground. Before the onset of frost, they dig them up and move them into the house. After which it can be used again for germination by a certain date.

When selling flowering hyacinths, a label with the text is often attached to the pot: after flowering, throw away the bulb. In this way, sellers inform that the flower cannot be re-potted. To do this, you need to proceed in accordance with the note suggested above: transplant the bulb into the soil outside.

City residents are often deprived of this opportunity and do not know how to properly grow hyacinths. You don’t have to throw the bulb away, but plant it on local area, cottage or in any flower bed you like. It is likely that by the end of autumn she will give birth to 1-2 babies.

Proper forcing of flowers

The choice of high-quality planting material is very important for successful flowering

The success of forcing hyacinths largely depends on the plant variety and how well the bulb is chosen. There are a number of requirements for planting material.

Preparing the bulb

In order for the hyacinth to bloom in a pot, it is necessary to properly prepare the bulb. This applies only to the seed that is dug out of the ground. If an onion is bought in a retail chain, it is known that it has passed all the stages of preparation listed below.

1. Bulbs intended for germination are dug up in mid-summer. They are cleared of soil and kept in conditions for 14–15 days. high humidity at +30°C.
2. Next, the temperature is reduced to +25°C and the seed is kept for two weeks.
3. Then, until planting, the bulbs are kept at +17°C.

Boarding time

The rooting period of the bulb is 6–10 weeks depending on the variety and quality seed material. If they want to grow flowers by a certain time, they are guided by practice-tested deadlines:

• flowers for the beginning of the new year and Christmas - planting in the first half of September;
• by March 8 - at the end of October.

Soil preparation

Any small containers are suitable for planting hyacinths: plastic cups, deep disposable plates, pots, jars.

For planting you will need a certain list of materials and tools.

1. A drainage 10–20 mm thick is formed at the bottom. These can be small pebbles mixed with sand.
2. Next, add a layer of soil. To grow hyacinths, you cannot use sour. Optimal choice- a mixture of equal parts of leaf soil, turf and compost, add a little sand and peat. You can also mix lowland peat and coarse sand in equal proportions. Another option is to buy ready-made soil mixture at a gardening store.
3. A 5–7 mm layer of sand is poured onto the substrate. This is a precaution to prevent the plant's roots from rotting.

Landing

For forcing, deep pots 14–20 cm high are used. As the bulb grows, it will inevitably increase and protrude above the soil surface. Therefore, you need to plant it in the upper third of the pot, and not at the level of its edges.

For commercial purposes, hyacinths are grown in small boxes, but each bulb is in a separate cell

The planting process consists of several stages:

• lightly press the bottom of the bulb into the ground (do not screw it in!);
• sprinkle with earth so that the upper part of the bulb is free and protrudes above the ground level;
• It is permissible to sprinkle the top part with dry sawdust.

Attention! If several bulbs are planted at once, they should not touch each other. In this case, the planting should be quite crowded. Optimal distance there are 2–2.5 cm between them.

Rooting period

After the flower is planted in a pot, it needs a period of rest. At this time, the following conditions are provided:

• complete lack of lighting;
• air temperature +5–7°С;
• normal humidity.

During the rooting period, constantly ensure that the soil in the container is moderately moist. Drying out is unacceptable. For the purpose of disinfection and fertilizing, the soil is watered with a solution of potassium permanganate and sprinkled wood ash. The duration of the rest period is 2–2.5 months.

Storage space for pots:

• bottom shelf of the refrigerator;
• cold loggia;
• basement or cellar;
• garage.

The rest period is otherwise called “cold”. This is a mandatory step in the process of forcing bulbous flowers.

The final stage of forcing

After two months after planting, they begin to regularly check whether sprouts have appeared. Once they reach a height of 2–2.5 cm, the pots containing the seed move to a cool, well-sun location. Optimally - on the windowsill. The flower should remain here throughout the next month. In the first week after the end of the cold period, it is advisable to cover the pots with a paper cap.

Attention! During this period of plant growth, the air temperature should not exceed +15°C.

At the end of this stage, the buds appear and the pot is transferred to the place where it will be permanently located. Next, wait for the start of flowering. Hyacinths do not tolerate excess moisture well, so they need to be watered regularly, but in moderation.

Forcing in water

To obtain a “water” flower, before planting, all the same steps are followed as when growing in a pot. It is important to choose the right water container. It should be such that the bulb does not sink in the liquid, but comes into contact with it with its lower, root part. In order to achieve this, you can use various devices. A good choice- narrow glasses.

The water must be clean: rainwater or filtered. The container must be wrapped in dark paper and the plants should be sent to a cool place to go through the cold period. All this time, monitor the fluid level and top it up in a timely manner. After the first roots appear, fertilizer is added. For example, "Kornevin".

How to choose a good, healthy plant in the store

Flowers bought in a hypermarket need special care, which is sometimes impossible to provide at home

The success of growing hyacinth in a pot directly depends on the quality of the seed. In order to avoid mistakes, the following rules are recommended.

1. For forcing, bulbs with a diameter of at least 50 mm are used. If hyacinths are to be grown in the garden, finer seeding material will be suitable.
2. Depending on the variety, the maximum permissible diameter of bulbs for growing hyacinth in a pot is 40–60 mm.

Requirements to appearance and quality of seed material:

• absence of rot and mechanical damage;
• smooth surface;
• absence of traces of pests and diseases;
• structure that is hard to the touch.

Important! The main criterion for choosing hyacinth for growing in a pot is the ratio of the diameter of the bulb and its bottom. It should be 1.5–1.6:1. For unsuitable seed, this ratio is much lower.

You brought a purchased flower home, how should you care for it?

Usually blooming hyacinths not replanted, but with those purchased in garden stores plants this rule does not apply

Hyacinth bulbs can be purchased at any time of the year. If there is no intention to immediately send it for forcing, then place it in a cool place for storage at a temperature of 6–9°C. This will stop the growth processes and begin a period of rest. If a bulb is purchased in a pot, it is placed in a well-lit place for forcing.

Is it worth replanting from a store pot?

Regarding whether it is necessary to replant hyacinth from store pot, the opinions of flower growers differ. Some believe that it is undesirable to injure a flower by transplanting. Others do not see any danger to the plant in this process. In order to decide what to do next, we evaluate the situation according to several parameters:

• flower condition: rooted bulb, there are sprouts, blooming;
• pot size;
• what will be done with the plant after it blooms.

Most often, hyacinths are sold in their best commercial form: blooming. Moreover, the bulbs are planted in such small containers that the soil is almost invisible. The vegetation of plants in such conditions is maintained by watering with chemicals. Once this process stops, the flower may die. Therefore, in order to save the life of the flower, after purchase, the hyacinth must be transplanted into a pot with soil, regardless of whether it blooms or not. If it was purchased in a container with a sufficient amount of substrate, it is better to refrain from replanting. After the hyacinth has bloomed, the bulb is dug up and sent for a period of rest.

Conditions for growing hyacinth in a pot

Try not to place hyacinths on windowsills, where there is a high probability of drying out from radiators

A pot of hyacinth is placed in any bright, warm place. Proximity to heating devices: radiators and various heaters is undesirable. For normal growing season, the plant needs room temperature.

During the period of ripening of the buds, hyacinth can be illuminated in the evenings with an incandescent or fluorescent lamp. The optimal temperature for flowering is 20°C. Watering should be moderate but constant. The soil should not be allowed to dry out. It is important to prevent water from getting on the top of the bulb and in the axils of the leaves.

Therefore, water is added at the edge of the pot. This will inevitably cause gradual erosion of the substrate. In order to avoid this, the container with the flower is periodically turned. This is also useful for making the plant trunk grow vertical. If necessary (if the soil is not nutritious enough), fertilizing with mineral fertilizers is possible.

The conditions listed above are considered ideal for growing hyacinth in a pot. But it is not always possible to provide them. However, do not worry about this: hyacinth is quite unpretentious and will definitely bloom when room temperature and normal room lighting.

What care should be given to hyacinth after flowering?

Inexperienced flower growers are at a loss as to what to do with hyacinth after it has bloomed. It all depends on whether they intend to get another full-fledged plant from this bulb. If not, the flower is dug up and thrown away. But you can do it differently: dig up the bulb and transplant it into the garden. Here it will rest and produce new flowers, provided it is properly cared for.

If you intend to start propagating and further growing hyacinths, proceed as follows.

1. When the plant fades, cut off the flower.
2. Continue moderate watering and fertilizing until the remaining leaves on the trunk wither. During this period, the bulb will gradually increase in size and babies may appear.
3. Next, the bulb is removed from the soil and cleaned of dried leaves. If there are children, separate them.
4. Those bulbs that have flowered after forcing are not suitable for replanting. But they can be planted in the ground in a flower bed or garden.

The maximum “lifespan” of hyacinth bulbs is 10 years. All this time they produce flowers once every 1–2 years.

Planting in open ground

Coachman hyacinth bulbs are planted only when they want to get lush flowering

On average, hyacinths bloom for 1.5–2 weeks. At the final stage, drying of the peduncle and leaves is observed. From this point on, watering is gradually reduced and stopped completely after the flower dries.

Attention! You cannot cut the green mass and flowers before they dry, as during this period there is an outflow nutrients into the onion.

The peeled onion is planted in the ground at a temperature of +20–30°C. Optimal period- first half of autumn. Planting is carried out to a depth of 10–12 cm on dense heavy soils and 12–15 cm on loose and light soils.

1. A hole of appropriate depth is formed.
2. Pour a 1–2 cm layer of sand onto the bottom.
3. The distance between the bulbs is 8–9 cm.
4. Before frost, cover the planting site with a 10 cm layer of mulch.

Diseases and pests

Like any other plant, this flower can be affected various diseases and pests. The most common ones when growing hyacinths in pots are the following.

Yellow bacterial rot

When the disease occurs, the leaves of the plant are affected, and then the bulbs (orchid in the photo)

The disease is accompanied by liquefaction of the bulb, pronounced unpleasant smell, stopping the growth of the plant. On initial stage When affected by yellow rot, gray spots appear on the leaves.

The disease is caused by pathogenic microorganisms found in contaminated soil. Signs of the disease:

• brown small depressions on flowers and leaves;
• the tips of the leaves become covered with mycelium, become thinner and destroyed;
• the roots rot.

The decay process accelerates as the air temperature rises.

Mosaic

First the leaves wither, and then the whole plant.

Chaotically located elongated light green spots appear on the leaves and flowers. The affected areas begin to turn yellow and dry out. Plant growth slows down. Possible death.

Gray rot

Gray rot leads to the death of bulbs (pictured is a tulip bulb)

Most often it affects plants during the period of early growth. The disease is characterized by formation yellow spots, which gradually increase in size and acquire a brown color. The roots begin to rot quite quickly. The plant dies.

When grown outdoors, the most dangerous pests for hyacinths are aphids and thrips. They take sap from the plant, which leads to the drying of flowers and leaves. To prevent damage, spray with aphicides. The most effective are “Fitoverm”, “Akarin”, “Accord”.

Possible problems when growing hyacinths: table

A table will help a novice gardener possible errors when growing hyacinths in a pot and how to correct them.

Problem	Cause	Solution
Increase in green mass in the absence of flowering	small onion	Select a bulb with a diameter of at least 5 cm and plant it
Different flowering periods for plants of the same variety when planting several bulbs at the same time in one pot	All bulbs planted in one container should be approximately the same diameter	Choose bulbs with a diameter of at least 5 cm
Slow growth, poor flowering	The “cold” period was not maintained before planting the bulb; the pot is moved to a warm place before the appearance first shoots	Properly prepare for planting new onion, following the instructions above
Deformed or missing flowers	The temperature during the “cold” period was above +9°C	Properly prepare a new bulb for planting
Yellowing of leaves, slow growth	Insufficient watering, poor lighting	Water the plant in a timely manner, move the pot to a well-lit place
Falling buds, rotting of the bulb	Excessive watering with water entering the leaf axils and buds	Water the plant at the root, at the edge of the pot

Propagation of hyacinths at home

In nature, hyacinth reproduces by children. Moreover, the bulbs take a very long time to grow: 3–5 years. For obvious reasons home breeding this method is of little use. Over the years of breeding bulbous flowers, several optimal methods for their propagation have been found:

• seeds;
• children;
• cuttings;
• cutting out the bottom;
• dissection of the bulb (reproduction by scales).

The first method of propagation is the most labor-intensive and time-consuming: by seeds. It is most often used if you want to get flowers of a rare variety, the bulbs of which are not commercially available.

Reproduction by children

Reproduction by children is the easiest

Highly productive, most commonly used method. Beneficial for several reasons:

• the first flowering occurs in the third year after planting;
• all characteristics of the mother plant are inherited;
• high survival rate.

Stimulation of the formation of children is carried out by cutting the bottom of the mother's bulb crosswise.

Cuttings

Cuttings are harvested during the period of bud formation.

1. Select a leaf with a cutting and cut it as close to the plant trunk as possible.
2. The cut is treated with a disinfectant and growth-stimulating drug.
3. Planted in a container with substrate or under film.

After 3–4 weeks, rooting occurs. After 50–60 days, the first shoots of a new plant appear. In the first two years, the bulb is not dug up; it is left to overwinter under a thick layer of mulch.

Cutting the bottom

This method is best used by experienced gardeners.

With this method of propagation, large bulbs are used. The sequence of actions is as follows:

• wash the seed from soil residues;
• laid to dry for 5–7 days;
• Using a sharp knife, cut out the bottom of the bulbs so that a cone-shaped hole is obtained;
• the cut site on the bulb and the cut bottom is treated with a fungicide solution (crushed charcoal can be used);
• The cut bottoms are laid cut side up and covered with plastic wrap.

The first babies with a diameter of 5–10 mm appear after 2–3 months. If the air temperature allows (not lower than +30°C), you can plant in the ground.

Bulb dissection

This method of propagation requires dense, large bulbs. Using sharp knife, they are divided into 5–6 parts. Each slice is disassembled into scales. All sections are treated with a disinfectant. The resulting seed is stored in plastic bags. In the first month at a temperature of +20–25°C, in the second – +17–20°C.

If you wish, you can grow beautiful hyacinths in a pot at home. They will help with this detailed instructions for each stage of preparation and germination of seed, care of flowering plants.

When the wind is raging outside the window and the blizzard is raging, you really want to feel the aroma of spring. It was for this purpose that breeders bred indoor hyacinth- a real miracle that blooms in the most severe winter month- February. This amazing bright flower as if reminding us that spring will come very soon.

Homeland of hyacinth

Hyacinths were first discovered in the Middle East, in the territory North Africa and the Mediterranean. However, Dutch breeders have put so much effort into popularizing the flower that the Netherlands is rightly called the “hyacinth center.” It is here that the best specialists work to develop new varieties, which subsequently travel around the world.

Appearance of hyacinth

The hyacinth root system is represented by a bulb consisting of succulent lower leaves. The stem reaches a height of forty centimeters; after the end of the flowering period, it dries up along with the leaves. The leaf blades of the plant are narrow and directed upward.

The hyacinth inflorescence has the shape of a cone or pyramid and consists of many small flowers of different shades. The most common hyacinths are white, pink, blue, cream and yellow color. Flowers can be simple or double. At the end of flowering, a fruit is formed on the plant - a triangular capsule with two seeds covered with delicate skin.

Despite the fact that hyacinth is a very common and beloved plant by many, not every novice gardener will be able to grow such a miracle on a window in the house. This requires certain skills and knowledge.

Watering mode

Hyacinth is very demanding when it comes to watering. This is a moisture-loving plant, which is why watering must be regular to earthen lump didn't dry out. Water should be poured only along the edge of the bowl so that moisture does not get into the axils of the leaves. Otherwise, the leaves and flowers will begin to rot.

For irrigation use melted or rainwater, heated to room temperature.

Lighting requirements

Hyacinth needs a large number of sunlight. If the daylight hours are insufficient, the hyacinth will not bloom. The plant should receive light at least 12 hours a day, it is good if the daylight hours are 15 hours. IN winter time for supporting necessary conditions For hyacinth, an artificial light source is used.

Temperature

The optimal temperature for hyacinth is from +20 to +22 degrees. Considering the fact that the plant does not tolerate spraying, the flowerpot must be placed away from heat sources to eliminate the possibility of the leaves, flowers and bulbs drying out.

The flower reacts extremely negatively to drafts and wind.

Feeding and fertilizer

Hyacinth needs feeding, especially during the flowering period. At this time, it is necessary to apply mineral fertilizers.

Hyacinth is not fed with organic fertilizers.

As a rule, hyacinth is not replanted. This is due to the fact that the plant is an annual. However, if you need to transplant a flower into another flowerpot, you must do this as carefully as possible.

1. If possible, leave all the soil on the bulb.
2. The container should be prepared in advance: make holes in the bottom and lay a drainage layer on the bottom.
3. It is necessary to dig up hyacinth with extreme caution so as not to damage the roots.

Forcing hyacinth at home

Forcing is a special technique that gardeners use to activate plant growth and flowering at the chosen time. In order for hyacinth to bloom in unusual months, it is important to choose the right planting material and prepare it accordingly.

Bulb selection

For planting, it is better to choose bulbs that were grown in open ground, strong, dense, without damage. The weight of the bulb also matters - the heavier it is, the more likely it is to wait until the hyacinth blooms.

Preparing bulbs for planting

The optimal period for planting bulbs is the second half of autumn. However, hyacinths can be planted depending on the desired flowering period.

The earth mixture should be loose; it is best to prepare a substrate from leaf soil, sand and crushed charcoal.

The bulbs are planted in such a way that a third of them is not immersed in the soil, and the upper part is flush with the edge of the bowl. When planting several bulbs in one flowerpot, it is important to maintain a distance between them of at least 2.5 cm.

Then the planted bulbs should be covered. To do this, use empty pots, paper caps or polyethylene. The main thing is to provide holes for ventilation.

Containers with onions are placed in dark place, where the temperature does not rise above +8 degrees. Here hyacinths are stored for 10-12 weeks. Watering during this period is reduced to a minimum. It is necessary to water the bulbs only when the soil dries out.

When sprouts appear, it is necessary to remove the cover and place the containers in a room where it is light and the air temperature is not lower than +22 degrees. Plants should be watered more often and mineral fertilizers applied. After a month, inflorescences will appear on the plants.

In order for the hyacinth to bloom longer, it can be placed in a cool place during the flowering period.

You can also use containers of water to grow hyacinths. The water should be melt or rain with the addition of mineral fertilizers. The bulb must be placed in such a way that it is not immersed in water. Place the container in a dark and cool place, change the water every two weeks. When sprouts appear, the plants can be moved to a warm and bright place.

Various parts of the plant are used for propagation:

• Baby bulbs;
• Seeds;
• Scales.

Propagation of hyacinths by seeds is carried out exclusively by specialists when new plant varieties are developed.

The most suitable method for propagation at home is the method of cutting the bottom. To do this, you need to select the largest, healthiest onion without defects or damage, remove the soil, rinse and dry. Afterwards the bulb is treated with a fungicide.

Using a sharp sterile knife, four cuts are made so that they form a square. Afterwards the bulb is dried again at a temperature of +22 degrees.

When the cuts open, they must be treated with crushed coal and the planting material must be placed in a dark place. The temperature must be maintained constant - +22 degrees. Three months later, new bulbs appear.

The optimal period for the propagation of hyacinths is July.

Peduncles form from January to May; the duration of flowering depends on the time of planting the bulbs and averages two weeks. The first flowers appear 15 weeks after planting.

Only one type is used as indoor hyacinth - the oriental one. The most common varieties:

• "Amethyst"- inflorescences are light purple, bloom in the second half of April;
• "Rosalia"- bright pink flower, appears in early April;
• "Ostara"- rich, purple hue of the inflorescence, a long period flowering (up to three weeks);
• "La Victoire"- inflorescences of a beautiful red hue;
• "Sunflower"- double flowers of cream color.

IN mandatory The peduncle should be cut off after flowering has ended. It is necessary to trim the arrow before the formation of fruits so that the plant does not waste extra strength and nutrients.

Diseases and pests

In general, indoor hyacinth is quite resistant to various diseases, but gardeners should regularly inspect the flower.

1. Bacterial rot. Black dots appear on the plant, and mucus appears around the bulb. In this case, the plant must be destroyed, the pot must be treated with disinfectants, and the soil must be thrown away. The cause of the disease is too much watering.
2. Root mites, stem nematodes and aphids. You can fight insects using special chemicals. However, the plant can be processed only before the flowering period begins.

Note to the florist

1. Why do hyacinth leaves turn yellow?

It is possible that the plant is preparing for a dormant period. If the tips of the leaves begin to turn yellow, this indicates several reasons:
indoor air is too dry;
insufficient watering.

It is necessary to cut off the peduncle, transplant the plant into a larger pot using the transshipment method (if the plant has grown out of its pot) and place it in a bright, cool place. At the same time, caring for hyacinth will be no different from caring for ordinary indoor plant. Thus, the hyacinth will accumulate enough strength to bloom and form new bulbs next year.

3. Harm and benefits of hyacinth.

ABOUT beneficial properties hyacinth has been known for many centuries. Hyacinth was used:

• To protect against unrequited love and the evil eye;
• For flavoring things;
• To combat depression and insomnia;
• To normalize the menstrual cycle;
• To combat mosquitoes and cockroaches;
• As a disinfectant and antiseptic.

Today, hyacinth is a popular component in cosmetology; it is used in the manufacture of creams and perfumes. In some cases, if a person has a weakened immune system or is allergic to strong odors, hyacinth can cause nausea, vomiting, headache and irritation of the mucous membranes.

4. Why doesn’t hyacinth bloom?

Inflorescences do not appear for several reasons:

• The rest period for the plant was not observed (at least two months);
• Insufficient watering.

Video on caring for hyacinths

Hyacinth is one of the earliest plants that pleases with its bright color when winter rages outside the window. However, in order to wait for such a miracle, it is necessary to make a lot of effort and create the maximum possible for the capricious flower. comfortable conditions: regular watering, bright light, good drainage, absence of drafts and, most importantly, a period of rest so that the hyacinth gains strength for flowering. A little attention and care and hyacinth will give you a real fairy tale in the middle of winter.

Hyacinths are one of the most popular garden plants that bloom in spring due to their varied range of colors and quite easy care after them. But sometimes it happens that, having completed all the necessary work on growing and caring for them, the flowers are still in no hurry to delight you with their lush blooms. Why hyacinths don’t bloom is in our article.

Main mistake

One of the most common mistakes among novice gardeners is that they leave hyacinth bulbs in the ground after flowering. But in conditions middle zone The soil rarely warms up above 20 degrees. Inside the bulb, the rudiments of a young shoot with leaves and inflorescence, as well as the rudiments of new daughter bulbs, do not have time to form. Therefore, after a certain period of time, approximately 35 days after the start of flowering, when the leaves begin to lie down (this happens in late June - early July), the formed hyacinth bulbs must be dug up, dried for several days in a shaded place, and then, peeled from the roots and soil, spread into paper bags with a note about the variety.

First, the bulbs are stored at a temperature of 25 degrees, and 30 days before planting they are transferred to a cool place.

Choosing a landing site

When planting and digging up bulbs, be very careful with them. Those that are damaged are easily susceptible to fungal diseases, and healthy ones live up to ten years or more.

Try not to plant hyacinths in areas where other bulbous crops were previously grown. In addition, hyacinths do not tolerate flooding. groundwater- find them a higher place.

Soil preparation

Answering the question “why don’t hyacinths bloom?” One cannot fail to take into account one more important point. The reason for poor flowering may be improperly prepared soil for planting. Some gardeners try to “feed” the soil with fresh manure. You can't do this. The feeding layer, which should be below the level of planting the bulbs, is formed from soil and rotted manure. This also includes the full combined mineral fertilizer based on 40 g per 1 square meter. Light, breathable soil is poured over the feeding layer. Hyacinth bulbs are planted here at a depth of 20-25 cm, not forgetting to add a little sand under the bottom.

If you fulfill all the conditions, then every year in mid-May you will have a holiday lush flowering hyacinths.

It is curious that in old domestic books on gardening there are no recommendations for growing hyacinths in the garden.

The secret is simple - a hundred years ago, hyacinths were home flowers in Russia, fashionable and widespread. They usually tried to get it to bloom by Easter, which is why they called hyacinth the Easter flower.

Blooming hyacinths can be obtained from December to May. They look great when forced out. You just need to prepare the material correctly.

For this purpose, large healthy bulbs with a diameter of more than 5 cm and weighing 60-80 g with a healthy bottom.

The following bloom luxuriantly when forced:varieties :

dark pink Amsterdam, light pink Anna Maria and Lady Derby,

lilac Amethyst,

blue Delph Blue,

white Innocent and Carnegie,

Blue Pearl Diamond.

FOR A BOUQUET FOR THE NEW YEAR OR CHRISTMAS, hyacinth bulbs are dug out of the ground not at the end of June, but a week earlier.

Dry in a place with good ventilation and store for 2 weeks at 30 degrees. At home, this is the kitchen - the top shelves.

For hyacinths, it is very important that the soil does not dry out, but is also not waterlogged.

To protect against drying out, place a damp burlap or cloth on top. Then, until September 1, they are stored at 25.5 degrees, after which the temperature is reduced to 17 degrees.

Soil preparation and planting

In the first half of October they are planted in pots or bowls filled with loose soil. soil mixture(humus, turf soil, sand in a ratio of 1:2:0.5).

One onion is planted in pots 8-10 cm in size; several are usually planted in boxes, placing them every 2-2.5 cm. They are planted shallowly, immersed in the soil up to the shoulders. Once planted, the tops of the bulbs should be level with the edges of the box and 1.5cm above the soil.

The bulbs are watered abundantly, covered with damp sand or sawdust and stored in a basement, trench, refrigerator, cellar or other place where the temperature is maintained at 5-10 degrees for 10-12 weeks. With this cooling, rooting of the bulbs occurs.

When the length of the sprouts reaches 6-8 cm, the hyacinths are exposed to light and kept under black caps at a temperature of 16-18 degrees for the first 3-5 days. After 2 weeks, hyacinths bloom.

At first, hyacinths are protected from light on the windowsill with thick caps.

FLOWERING AT THE END OF FEBRUARY - EARLY MARCH.

The bulbs are harvested at the usual time, that is, at the end of June and beginning of July. Until September 1, they are stored at a temperature of 25.5 degrees, then the temperature is reduced to 17 degrees. At the end of October, plant in boxes or pots filled with soil consisting of equal parts river sand, turf land and peat. Until December 15, keep at a temperature of 8-9 degrees, then reduce it to zero. 2-2.5 weeks before the scheduled flowering date, they are brought out into the light.

During this period, it is important to observe the temperature regime. For 5-6 days, hyacinths are kept at 17-18 degrees, only then it is raised to 22 degrees.

Moreover, by adjusting the temperature, you can control the duration of flowering. For example, at 10-12 degrees, hyacinths bloom for 20-25 days, and at 20-22 degrees for only 15-18 days. During forcing, plant care involves regular watering.

After flowering, intensive leaf growth occurs. At this time, it is advisable to feed the plants 2-3 times. liquid fertilizer For indoor flowers at weekly intervals.

When the leaves turn yellow, stop watering, dig up the bulbs, dry them and store them until October. Then they are planted in open ground. For re-forcing they can be used no earlier than after 2 years.

Why do hyacinths bloom poorly on the window?

• If flowering does not work out, there may be several reasons: planting small bulbs, lack of moisture in the pot, too heat on the window.
• The appearance of deformed flowers is associated with non-compliance temperature regime during the cold period.
• Rotting of flowers causes waterlogging of the soil, especially if there are no drainage holes in the pot.
• The slow development of hyacinths may be associated with early transfer to a bright room.
• Yellowing and lethargy of leaves occur due to drafts or insufficient lighting.
• The reasons for the non-simultaneous flowering of bulbs in a pot may be their different sizes or uneven illumination on the window, so the pot must be turned with different sides towards the light from time to time.
• The buds do not open and fall off due to water getting on them during watering or due to dry soil.

Planting hyacinths in water

Water forcing of hyacinths was once very popular. Let's repeat the experience of our great-grandmothers. To do this, you need to choose a vase that tapers at the top to about 4 cm, or buy special cups for forcing hyacinths.

After digging at the end of June - beginning of July, the bulbs should be stored at a temperature of 25.5 degrees until September, then it is reduced to 17 degrees. At the end of October - beginning of November you can start forcing.

To prevent water from rotting, several pieces of charcoal are placed at the bottom of the vessel, and to prevent it from floating, 1-1.5 cm of river sand or gravel should be poured on top. Only after this water is poured, preferably rain or snow.

The hyacinth bulb must be placed on the neck of the vessel so that the distance between the bottom and the water level is no more than 2 mm. Then cover it with a cap made of dark paper and place it in a cool place with a temperature of 6-9 degrees, away from sunlight.

At the beginning of root formationwater needs to be added every 4 days , making sure that it does not get on the bulb.

When the sprout is 8-10 cm (this happens after about 8-10 weeks), the paper caps are gradually removed and the vessels are placed on the sunny side of the window.

Unfortunately, after forcing in water, hyacinth bulbs are not suitable for further cultivation.

Do you think hyacinth is a flower? No, this is the name of a young man, a dearly beloved friend greek god Apollo. The young men often amused themselves by throwing the disc one at a time. But the jealousy of the god of the Western winds led to disaster. And so Hyacinth bleeds in the arms of his friend, the god Apollo. Apollo could not help him in any way, only in memory of his friend he created a unique flower and named it Hyacinth.

It turns out that thanks to whom many women receive a deliciously smelling gift on March 8th. Moreover, there is such a variety of colors: white, pale yellow, pink (any tone), lilac, blue, indigo, red, violet.

Growing hyacinths at home

Looking at the hyacinth, everyone will think: “I want it!” Want! Want!". If you want it, everything will happen, but you have to try. “Hyacinth” is a Greek word that translates to “flower of the rains,” perhaps because the grower has to put a lot of sweat into growing it. This, of course, is a joke, but you need to not only know the peculiarities of cultivation, but also methodically adhere to them.

Let us first note that additional lighting and supports for flower stalks may be necessary (the inflorescences are too heavy). Our goal is to get as close as possible to the conditions of the natural environment - South Asia and the Mediterranean.

Choosing a location, suitable temperature and light

This is a complex matter, as all the following factors must be taken into account:

• daylight hours are required for approximately 15 hours (windows to the south or southeast are suitable, others require additional lighting - extending daylight hours);
• a flower loves light, but not heat - comfortable temperature a little more than 20˚С - so in summer you will have to remove the flowerpot from direct sun or shade it;
• does not tolerate drafts or sudden changes in temperature;
• loves walks on the terrace or balcony at the right temperature;
• in winter, proximity to heating devices is unacceptable.

Creating the necessary air and soil humidity

Everything is simple here - you must not allow the soil to dry out, on the one hand, or the bulbs and leaves to rot, on the other. Water regularly, along the walls of the pot, not reaching the bulbs. Drain excess water from the pan. Hyacinth does not need spraying, and during flowering this procedure is prohibited.

Soil selection, fertilizer

The choice of soil mixture is important; neutral soil is suitable for hyacinth; it is ideal to use leaf and turf soil, peat, humus and sand in equal proportions. No fresh organics. Pre-heat the earth for 1.5 hours in the oven for disinfection. For lush flowering, the plant will need strength, which means fertilizing is required (with conventional complex fertilizers for flowering plants). The first time at the beginning of the growing season, then during the budding period, maybe a little in the final phase of flowering.

How to choose planting material

The key to beautiful flowering is a high-quality bulb. Bulbs should be selected according to flower shops according to the following parameters:

• the diameter of the bulb is at least five centimeters;
• no damage or rottenness;
• the bulb is dense, not dry;
• The best time to buy bulbs is August.

If you purchase, then the stem and peduncle should be erect.

Forcing hyacinth How to adjust the beginning of flowering to a certain date?

It can be calculated very roughly as follows: from planting to flowering it takes about 2.5 months, the plant itself blooms for 10-18 days (depending on the variety), so it’s easy to calculate. We want to start in mid-October for the New Year, for Valentine's Day - the end of November, for March 8 - the 20th of December. Before buying bulbs, carefully read the growing conditions - the most important thing is that the three phases of forcing require different temperatures(that means a different place).

First stage– we plant the bulb in a pot and imitate winter. For 1.5 -2 months we keep the pot at a temperature of up to 8˚C and in complete darkness. This could be the cellar, or, failing that, the lower section of the refrigerator (cover the pot with a bag). Let's move on to next stage when the emerging sprout reaches 5 cm. We keep the substrate in the flowerpot constantly moist; drying out is unacceptable.

Second phase– temperature increase by 5 -7 ˚С (spring is coming), the room is still darkened. Gradually you can move closer to the window, adding light. We are waiting for the buds to appear.

Third stage– flowering takes place in good light and a temperature of about 20 ˚С. Golden Rule– no sudden changes in heat or heat, otherwise you won’t see flowers.

Planting hyacinth at home

Fill the pot with nutritious soil to two-thirds of its height. No need to compact.

Plant the bulbs at half height so that the tops are on the surface. This way the hyacinth will not get putrefactive diseases and will develop well.

After you carefully water it without touching it, place the pot in a cool, dark place. When the leaves are 7-8 cm in height, the pot should be placed on a sunny windowsill.

If you have imagined the whole process and found places with a suitable temperature, go ahead and plant the bulbs. This is a simple matter.

• You can choose individual flowerpots 5 cm wider than the bulb, or you can place hyacinths in a container several at a time (at a distance of 2-3 cm) - this way the flowers look more impressive.
• Be sure to place drainage at the bottom of the container, then soil, do not fill it to the top so that the planted bulb peeks 2 cm out of the soil.
• We plant the bulbs (not close to the edge of the container), compact the soil and water generously.
• A layer of sand (up to 1 cm) can be poured on top to prevent the bulbs from rotting. That's it, we're covering dark film(ventilation holes are required) and in the “winter”, for the first phase.

Hyacinth at home after flowering

The eastern name for hyacinth is “Guria Curls.” Now they have blossomed, delighting us with their curls and wonderful aroma, now it’s time to rest.

What to do with home hyacinth after flowering:

• The flower has faded - cut off the peduncle. During the rest period we adhere to moderate watering, we give the plant the opportunity to form “babies” and gain strength for the main bulb.
• We feed the plant with complex fertilizer.
• Only after the leaves have completely dried should you dig up the bulb.
• Inspect carefully, air dry, remove the dry husks, let the too small “babies” remain with the “mother”, and the larger ones can be separated.
• All of them must be thoroughly dried - for the first week even at 30˚C, then another 2 weeks at 25˚C, and until planting - at a temperature of 17˚C and high humidity(so that the bulb does not dry out). This is very important stage, because right now the future inflorescence and small children are being formed (therefore, when next landing you have to be careful not to damage them).

In the fall, hyacinth bulbs need to be planted in the ground in a flower bed so that they can recover after flowering at home. Plant them deeper (15-20 cm) so that they do not freeze, and cover with a 10 cm layer of mulch. Remove the cover in spring. The plants may not bloom in the spring, but they will be perfectly prepared for the next forcing in the new season. In the fall, the bulbs can be dug up, dried and stored in a cool place until planted in a pot. The bulbs can form babies; it is better to carefully separate them and leave them in the flowerbed; they will grow for 4-5 years until they reach the size of adult bulbs. Only then can they be used for forcing at home.

How to propagate hyacinths at home

• A faded plant is not suitable for re-forcing the house - it must be planted in open ground (in the fall, even in a flowerbed at the entrance) so that it gains strength.
• If you plan to grow it again at home in a year, then the hyacinth should not bloom in the ground this year (you will have to cut off the peduncle).
• In 3-4 years a small child can grow to normal sizes, so that it is suitable for forcing at home.
• Over these years, the “cubs” will go through periods of growing season without flowering, gradually gaining power.

This is where a sensible idea arises: to obtain it, buy ready-made planting material, and let it be grown in nurseries.

Diseases and pests

The flower is occasionally affected by yellow bacterial rot, which, alas, nothing can be done about. The plant and soil will have to be thrown away, and if the pot is planned to be used further, it must be disinfected.
Pests can be:

• spider mite;
• nematodes;

Insecticides are used to combat them, although this cannot be done during the flowering period.
Possible problems when caring for hyacinth at home:

• yellow leaves - a draft and watering into the outlet are to blame;
• leaves wither - lack of lighting;
• buds falling off - water gets on the buds, a sharp change in temperature;
• cessation of flowering - the flower is hot;
• rotting - chronic waterlogging.

Conclusion: you can grow hyacinth with patience and care. Grow wisely and enjoy luxurious blooms!

Description of hyacinth

Hyacinths photo when to plant at home Hyacinthus orientalis ‘Delft Blue’ photo

Hyacinth is now classified as a member of the Asparagus family, although previously it was classified as a separate Hyacinth family or included in the Liliaceae family. This bulbous perennial is considered to be a native of Asia Minor, but Dutch breeders worked so hard to develop new varieties, spread the flower and bulbs, that it can be considered a truly modern “Dutch”.

Hyacinth is a plant up to 30 cm high; a stem and oblong leaves grow from a dense bulb. Hyacinth flowers - small bells with curled leaves - are collected in a dense cone-shaped inflorescence (reminiscent of an ear). The flowers are simple and double in appearance.

At the end of flowering, both the peduncle and the leaves dry out, you need to look for small baby bulbs in the corners of the leaves (they can be further used for propagation), and the main bulb develops on the stem inside the mother bulb.
It has proven itself well at home, also in open ground (where it is one of the first to emerge from the ground in the spring). This is not unfounded, this is evidenced by more than four hundred years of experience in breeding hyacinths. During this time, about 30 species were classified as this species, including half a thousand different varieties plants.

However, today there are three types of hyacinths:

• eastern (Hyacinthus orientalis);
• Litvinova (Hyacinthus litwinowii);
• Transcaspian (Hyacinthus transcaspicus).

It is on their basis that all the variety of shapes and colors of these plants is created.

Types and varieties of hyacinth with photos and descriptions

Eastern hyacinth Hyacinthus orientalis- the same great-grandfather of most of today's varieties. Flowers with a delicate aroma are loosely placed on a thin peduncle. May be any of the shades of white, yellow, pink or blue flowers. IN wildlife can be found in Lebanon, Turkey or Syria.

Hyacinth Litvinov Hyacinthus litwinowii– has bluish leaves and light blue flowers with protruding stamens. Natural range: Iran, Turkmenistan.

Transcaspian hyacinth Hyacinthus transcaspicus – low growing flower(up to 20 cm), has up to two stems, leaves are equally thick along the entire length. There are no more than a dozen flowers in a loose inflorescence. Natural place – mountains of Turkmenistan.
Another classification of hyacinths is their division by color:

• — Arentine Arendsen (white or cream flowers), double Snow Crystal and Madame Sophie;

• — Yellow Hammer (rich yellow), Oranje Boven (pale yellow), City of Haarlem (salmon);

• pink - Anna Marie (light pink), Gertruda (deep pink), Moreno (pink with a dark crimson stripe);
• red - La Victoire, Tubergen’s Scarlet, Hollyhock (terry);

• lilac – Bismarck (pale), Blue Magic (red-violet), Indigo King (dark purple);
• blue - Queen of the Blues (pale blue), Perle Brillante (fawn blue), Marie (rich blue).

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