Regardless of whether the summer resident has acquired empty land or has long been the owner of a chic plot, planting fruit trees will not blow anyone. Some will create the garden of their dreams, others will rejuvenate it. All work must be carried out according to the rules and within a certain time frame.
About the rules and terms of planting fruit trees
In order for the orchard to develop well, its laying is carried out taking into account rationalism, acting in the following sequence:
- first determine the optimal place for each seedling;
- carry out preplant preparation of the site;
- mark places for each tree;
- dig holes and plant plants in them;
- watered and pruned.
When choosing a landing site, you should consider the location of the neighboring site. Tall trees cannot be planted near adjacent fences - they will obscure someone else's territory. You should not place them near buildings either - in the future, the branches will lie on the roof and can damage the roof.
Fruit trees
It will also be inconvenient to prune such trees and harvest from them. In addition, there is additional (labor-intensive) work to collect fallen leaves. If it is not removed from the roof in time, then this leaf fall will begin to rot there.
Dwarf trees, like shrubs, can be safely placed under vigorous crops (apple and pear trees). They will not interfere with each other in development.
Nice neighborhood
When choosing crops for their garden, stone and seed breeds are located separately from each other at a considerable distance (as far as garden plot). This will facilitate the fight against diseases of fruit trees and pests.
When choosing a neighborhood, consider the compatibility of plants:
- the apple tree gets along well with pears, plums, quince, cherries; next to some shrubs (currant, barberry, viburnum, mock orange, lilac), the culture feels uncomfortable;
- it is better to plant a pear with their own kind and apple trees, trying to avoid proximity to the already mentioned shrubs - they oppress culture in the same way as plums;
- cherry trees are best planted separately from other fruit trees, this will provide a better harvest.
On a note! The binding to the "wind rose" is important. Peaches, apricots and cherries are best planted in southern, southwestern directions. For the rest, the northern side of the site is most comfortable. Although in this case it is worth considering also the region.
So, in the Moscow region and other areas middle lane In Russia, most often the western and northwestern patches of the site are assigned to the garden. Southerners prefer exclusively the north - this way you can protect the trees from overheating.
In the northern zone, of course, the most appropriate place- southern corner of the cottage. Not a single specialist allocates the eastern allotment for a garden plantation, leaving it for building a house.
Note! When choosing a place, you need to take into account the relief. You should not plant a slope with a garden if it is too steep - the fertile layer will constantly be washed out from under the roots. It is also worth ignoring the lowlands, where melt water accumulates in spring, and the wood is damaged by fragments of sliding ice.
Tree transplant
You can grow a garden in one place for decades. But sometimes there comes a time when it is necessary to transplant fruit trees to another site. Only viable plants suitable for fruiting are selected.
To plant an adult tree in a new place, it is prepared for the “move” in advance. 1-2 years before that, a groove is dug around the plant, located along the circumference of the crown. The width of the recess is 0.3-0.4 m, the depth is 0.8-1 m. This work is done in early spring.
In the process, the roots are exposed, which are cut off from common system. Sections are treated with clay-earth talker, to which a growth stimulator should also be added.
The ditch is sprinkled with earth mixed with humus, and watered abundantly. From this moment until digging, many fibrous processes form on the roots around the trunk. With their help, the plant will take root in a new place.
During such transplants, the main difficulty lies in extracting the tree from the old pit. To do everything neatly, you will have to use the leverage system. The removed plant is immediately transferred to a new place, where a spacious pit has already been prepared for it.
fruit tree transplant
It is best to transplant trees no older than 5 years. But this option is not for everyone. cultivated plants. To preserve the variety of cherries, plums, pears, apple trees, it is better to graft them onto a younger tree. There are 3 main methods of grafting: budding, cuttings, ablactation, allowing you to save (or improve) the variety.
Timing
Each summer resident determines the landing time for himself. April is suitable for some - the first decade of May, others are more satisfied with October. V Lately such enthusiasts have also appeared that they plant fruit trees in the summer.
Note! Fruit growing laws recommend stone fruits plant in spring, and pome fruits in autumn.
But experienced gardeners argue that it should not be so strictly adhered to given condition. The main thing in landing garden trees- observe the rules of agricultural technology and maintain the crop placement pattern.
Best time to plant: spring or fall
Beginning summer residents often wonder when it is better to plant fruit trees: in spring or autumn. To choose the best time for garden work First of all, you should take into account the climatic region:
Having chosen a suitable month for planting work, it is recommended to look into Moon calendar, which is published annually in periodicals to help "junior horticulture". The astrological document contains best days when planting fruit crops is recommended.
Do not ignore this information, because they have been using this method since ancient times (and not only in Russia). The moon influences everything biological processes occurring on Earth, this fact is proven by science.
Planting fruit trees in summer
Among modern summer residents there are those who do not like the investigator to stereotypes. They also practice planting garden trees in the summer. In addition, at the present time it is really possible to do this without damaging the trees.
An earlier argument against summer period was hot weather preventing normal rooting. But then the seedlings were sold exclusively with an open root system, which, indeed, is more comfortable to take root at a low temperature in well-moistened soil.
Now nurseries sell trees in containers with soil mixture, and the plant is no longer so important at what temperature it is sent to the pit. The roots are quite well protected and do not dry out.
soil mixture
If an automated rationed irrigation system has been laid on the site, then summer is even more preferable for planting. June is considered a suitable month. You need to choose days based on the phases of the moon. You should wait for the second or third quarter of the activity of the night star in order to plant seedlings of fruit trees.
The soil temperature is also taken into account. If it is above 25 degrees Celsius, landing work in summer it should be carried out either early in the morning (at 6-8 o'clock), or late in the evening, but before sunset. This will keep the root system from burning and enable the plant to better adapt.
Experienced gardeners highlight the following advantages of summer tree planting:
- you can quickly choose the right one planting material– in summer there is no such influx of farmers in nurseries;
- during the growing season it is easier to evaluate all the advantages of the purchased trees;
- summer planting seedlings have time to take root before the cold weather and are more resistant to winter than those planted in autumn.
Important! In order for young trees to endure winter frosts, during summer planting, all ovaries that have appeared on the plant should be removed. Otherwise, they will take the extra juices from the seedling onto themselves and weaken it.
Conditions for planting seedlings
The rules for planting fruit trees are common for all seasons. Therefore, the gardener just needs to follow these instructions:
- pits are prepared in advance - 2 weeks before planting seedlings; this is necessary so that the excavated earth has time to ventilate;
- the size of the excavation is determined by the type of soil and the type of fruit trees;
- the walls are drawn up vertically, and the bottom is loosened on the bayonet of a shovel;
- when forming a pit, the top layer of earth is laid separately from the bottom - it will need to be mixed with organic fertilizers (peat, manure, compost, humus) and laid on the bottom;
- before the seedling is lowered into the pit, the roots are dipped in a mash (clay mortar with the addition of earth);
- in the center of the pit, it is desirable to drive a one and a half meter pointed stake, straight and smooth;
- when planting a tree, it should be on the north side of the stake;
- the roots are straightened and sprinkled with earth;
- then the seedling is shaken, and the soil is slightly crushed; so repeat until the pit is filled with earth;
- when subsidence, the condition is observed - the root collar should rise 3-4 centimeters above the ground;
- tying soft cloth a tree to a stake, several holes are made along the edge of the pit, through which the plant is watered abundantly.
Note! If there is a close occurrence on the site ground water, then a layer of fertilized earth is not simply poured into the pit, but a ridge mound is formed from it, a seedling is lowered onto it.
On this spring and summer planting can be considered complete. At autumn work final stage is the mulching of the near-stem circle with non-acidic peat or compost, 10 cm thick.
Soil acidity
An important role in the laying of the garden is played by mechanical and chemical composition soil. The roots of fruit trees need a suitable nutrient medium and comfortable conditions.
The most important parameter for agrarians is the ratio of cations and anions in the soil solution (pH reaction). These elements determine the acidity of the soil, which is indicated by the pH value.
Soil reaction is divided into 3 types: acidic, neutral and alkaline. The most promising land with a neutral pH of 6-7. But slightly acidic soil (pH 5-6) and slightly alkaline (pH 7-8) are quite suitable for a number of horticultural crops.
Increased acidity can be observed in regions with excessive precipitation (for example, the Leningrad and Moscow districts). A high alkaline level is more characteristic of hot dry areas.
Fruit trees
If the summer resident is not sure about the acidity of the soil in his area, he can take measurements with a potentiometer or use litmus paper. It will tell you the condition of the soil and the composition of the weeds growing there:
- for a neutral reaction, garden calamus, field bindweed are typical, creeping wheatgrass, chamomile;
- on the hyperacidity indicate white-bearded, mountaineer, chickweed, mullein, pikulnik, plantain, horsetail, sorrel.
Ameliorants will help improve the property of the land. Acidity can be lowered with lime, and increased with gypsum.
Planting in clay soil
Alone horticultural crops preference is given to sandy soils, others take root well on clay soils, others are not particularly demanding of this factor. Many fruit trees do not tolerate heavy clay and depleted sandy soils. Sandstones and loams are optimal for them.
The features of planting trees and the frequency of irrigation depend on the mechanical composition. Farmers have the hardest time clay soil. In such soil, it is difficult for plant roots to breathe. The density of the soil contributes to the long-term retention of moisture, which in the rainy season provokes the development of fungal diseases.
clay soil
An indicator of a heavy mechanical composition are dandelions, bluegrass, goose cinquefoil, creeping ranunculus. Having found such a “community” of weeds on your site, it is necessary to carry out sanding before planting the seedlings: during the preliminary digging of the site, river sand is added to the soil.
Clay soil is called structureless - it has an almost uniform composition. This interferes with water permeability. Therefore, such soil requires careful digging and regular loosening. Making this soil structural will allow the introduction organic fertilizers during the preparation of the site for planting seedlings.
On a note! The introduction (along with fertilizers) of chopped straw or sawdust into a pit for planting fruit trees will help bring the soil composition closer to loams.
A novice summer resident, in order to grow a chic garden on clay, should take into account the advice of experienced farmers:
- digging clay area before planting, seedlings are carried out twice: six months before digging holes and again 10 days before the main work;
- the depth of the hole under the tree is less than in fertile soil;
- clay mash for roots this case do not apply;
- it is better to cover a seedling lowered into a pit with imported soil mixed with fertilizers;
- after planting the tree, the earth is not pressed hard so that it does not compact.
Growing fruit trees will be the more successful, the more attentively the summer resident treats the conditions of agricultural technology. Important right choice places, taking into account the composition of the soil, the definition optimal time and compliance with planting habits. That's the only way to get good harvest.
The matter is more complicated than it seems at first glance. Back in 1909 gardening instructor J. Pengeroth in an article with the expressive title "Plant trees in autumn or spring?" made some interesting arguments on the subject.
wise thought
"Autumn planting succeeds the better, the sooner it can be done."confusing case
“There is no doubt that a newly planted tree is more sensitive to frost than an already rooted one, and therefore the preponderance is in the direction of spring planting, and not autumn.
Although autumn planting cannot be considered impossible either ... A tree should be planted only at a time when it has stopped growing, when during the summer the grown shoots have fully grown and matured, i.e. from September to October (the further south, the earlier you can start transplant; for example, in the Saratov province, you can start at the end of August); in the spring, now, as the earth has thawed, - until the buds begin to bloom.
The information is correct, but it is not yet clear: autumn or spring? However, the author goes on to talk about his experience "in the Baltic region and other northern provinces."
Autumn wins
“Having been gardening and planting trees for over 25 years… I have stuck to this: I have always given preference to autumn planting, except when it was necessary to plant on extremely clay, wet soil. If planting is done in early autumn, as already mentioned above, at a time when the tree, although it has stopped growing, but the sap movement in it has not completely stopped, then it will have time to give young roots before the onset of frost, as well as partly root cuts. swim. Such a tree will winter well and next spring will quickly grow. The later the transplant is made, the less the tree has time to take root and is slowly accepted in the spring, and sometimes in the winter from severe frosts part dies. At planted in autumn trees, it is necessary to cut the leaves so that they do not evaporate the reserve moisture, since the perception nutrients before the appearance of new roots stops.
True, in very cold areas and on damp cold soils, it should be planted in the spring, because during autumn planting, subsoil water can adversely affect the roots of new plantings. In hot countries, even on wet soil spring planting has its bad sides: if it is not possible to resort to frequent watering, then from summer heat the soil soon dries up, and newly planted trees often die or are poorly accepted.
Confirmation from the Volga region
“Autumn plantings, gardeners assured me, completely perish in the very first winter.
I did not believe this, and when, finally, in the autumn of 1908, I had the opportunity to plant in two gardens ... To finally resolve the controversial issue, I planted in the fall. I planted 60 apple trees and 10 pears in each garden in the first half of September - at the end of October I wrapped them with dry weeds from the bottom to the very tops in a thin layer, and - handed over to the power of winter. In one garden, all the trees began to grow, in the other, 2 apple trees and 2 pears died.
And in the summer, the author of the article visited neighboring lands, where seedlings from the same nursery were planted in the spring. The following picture appeared before his eyes: “They represented healthy look about 50% of apple trees and the same number of pears, about 10% of apple trees and 50% of pears died, and the rest of the apple trees are still between life and death, despite the fact that the spring was favorable.
According to the journal "Progressive Horticulture and Horticulture"
* in the article we are talking only about seedlings with an open root system
Personal experience
Get your sleigh ready in summer
Frost on bare ground is a nightmare for many summer residents. Especially for those who can visit their garden only on weekends. And for those who, like me, managed to plant a lot of heat-loving plants - and even more so!
Since during my gardening I managed to “step on the same rake” more than once, meeting frost without snow with useless moans and throwing, I recently made it a rule to prepare for a possible sharp cold snap in advance. I hope my experience will be useful to other summer residents.
Firstly, plants that will have to be covered for the winter are best prepared for this early, even if the aesthetics of the garden suffer from this. For example, bend down and lightly sprinkle with earth large-leaved hydrangeas, lay climbing and shrub roses until their branches are brittle from the cold. It doesn't hurt to throw nonwoven fabric: in the absence of snow from frost, of course, it will not save, but it will help to “soften the blow” with a sharp drop in temperature.
Secondly, be sure to mulch the tree trunks of heat-loving trees and shrubs. A layer of organic matter 10-15 cm thick will protect their roots from frost. For lovers of "sour", for example, rhododendrons, azaleas and magnolias, you can use peat, coniferous litter, sawdust. For others - compost, mowed grass, fallen leaves. This can be done back in September or October, without rushing and without arranging rush jobs for yourself on the eve of severe frosts. In addition, I mulch the soil in flower beds with perennials. In the event of a sharp cold snap, the wet earth literally "explodes", which often leads to damage to the root system. A thick layer of mulch will save you from this trouble.
Thirdly, it is worth preparing a “strategic reserve” of free covering material - fallen leaves. Oak is best, but in the absence of such, you can use any that is at hand. I usually carve out half an hour, rake the leaves under the nearest trees and collect them in big garbage bags. In the event of a sudden cold snap, it is enough to cover the cut perennials with leaves - they will serve as a heater instead of snow.
S. A. Gulyaeva, Moscow region
Many experienced gardeners plant fruit trees with equal success in autumn and spring. True, it is believed that the autumn planting of fruit trees is suitable mainly for southern regions, for Siberia and the Urals (there are freshly planted plants from fierce winter frosts protected by solid snow cover). For the northern and central regions, spring planting is more suitable - in extreme cases, the boles of seedlings are strengthened, hilling them for the upcoming winter.
When to plant?
The main rule of landing is that it should be carried out during the rest period. In spring, this is the time from thawing the soil to the start of active sap flow, in autumn - after leaf fall, in preparation for winter sleep. The second dormant period lasts longer, and this is already a point in favor of the autumn planting.
In the spring - this is the time from thawing the soil to the start of active sap flow, in the fall - after leaf fall, in preparation for winter sleep
But usually the choice of gardeners is influenced by the fact that in autumn the range of seedlings offered by nurseries is much richer than in spring, and prices are usually more attractive. And it makes little sense to buy seedlings in the fall and leave them in a prikope until spring - the climate in last years unpredictable, and abnormally warm, and abnormally cold winter can be fatal for such wintering.
toliam1 FORUMHOUSE Consultant
Both I and my clients plant everything only in the fall. The winter is far away, the seedlings have time to get used to the ground, in a warm winter, the growth of roots is also possible. And in the spring immediately "to battle." When planting in the spring, one season is lost.
What to plant?
Planting trees in autumn has its own characteristics. For her, it is better to choose 1-2 year old seedlings with mature shoots - then the likelihood increases that the plant will endure the winter better. The shoots of the seedling along the entire length should be lignified, with fully formed buds.
Three-year-old seedlings are sold less often, but it’s for the better: at this age, the apple tree already has pretty decent roots, and when the plant is dug up for sale, they have to be severely cut. That is, serious wounds are inflicted on the tree, and it takes root much worse.
lulu FORUMHOUSE user
The older the apple tree, the longer and thicker its roots, the more wounds are inflicted during digging.
For autumn planting, zoned and winter-hardy varieties fruit trees, for example, Siberian and Ural selection.
How well a plant will take root depends on the condition of the root system. Unfortunately, many have encountered the fact that plum or cherry seedlings freeze even during transportation to the country house, because their absorbent roots do not tolerate temperatures already +3 - +4 degrees. Unlike seedlings with ACS, seedlings with a closed root system practically do not suffer during planting (in fact, this is the same transshipment, and often plants hardly even notice it). But seedlings with ZKS must be of high quality: root system tightly held in a coma of earth, but did not braid it around, the seedling is not removed from the container easily and freely. It happens, unfortunately, and so, the seller does not grow a seedling in a container, but places it there before planting.
Tatuniki FORUMHOUSE user
When buying a seedling with ZKS, you should check if it grew in a pot, or if it was stuffed there before selling.
If you are not sure about the quality of such a seedling, it is better to buy good seedling with OKS.
The optimal time for the autumn planting of a fruit tree is two, or better, three weeks before frost. Depending on the region, this may be either the end of September or the end of October. In "rest period" above-ground part the tree stops growing, but the roots grow as long as the soil temperature is higher than +4 degrees. It turns out that if you guess with the planting date, then before the onset of frost, new trees in your garden will have time to grow absorbent roots. And this means that in the spring they will begin to grow earlier than those planted in the spring, and the traditional spring vagaries of the weather will be met already strengthened.
If the roots of the seedling have dried up, it will be necessary to hold them in water for a day before planting.
How to plant?
FORUMHOUSE user Tamara Nikolaev plants fruit according to all the rules of horticultural science: with an assistant, in well-prepared pits measuring 1.5x1.3. And on average, the dimensions of the landing pits are usually as follows:
For trees on vigorous rootstocks:
120x80 cm (apple and pear),
100x60 cm (plums and cherries).
For semi-dwarf and dwarf:
80x50 cm.
The pit for the seedling with the ZKS should be twice as large as the container.
To protect against spring waterlogging, Tamara pours 30-40 cm of expanded clay at the bottom of the pit and prepares the soil in advance:
-3 buckets of rotted manure;
- 1 bucket of "native" soil;
- 2 buckets of good vegetable soil.
Any trees can be planted in such soil, and in the first year there will be no need to feed them. When preparing the soil, we must forget the phrase "nitrogen fertilizers" - and we remember that they include chicken and other bird droppings. In general, fertilizers must be applied very carefully when planting, as they can burn the roots. You can separate them from the roots with a layer of neutral soil, or you can not make them at all - wait until the trees "come to life" and bring them into the punctures. Sometimes it is recommended to apply peat - FORUMHOUSE experts say that it acidifies the soil, therefore, before applying, it will definitely need to be deoxidized.
Landing Tamara does this: expanded clay is poured into the bottom of the pit, leveling it; on top of a third of the pit, he adds the prepared soil, compacts it, spills it with water, pours the dry soil into a mound, gently spreads the roots over it.
The root neck of the planted seedling should be located exactly at the level of the soil, not deeper and not higher. .
A board is placed on top of the pit and the level of the root neck is checked - it should be located EXACTLY at the level of the board. That is, the root collar of the planted seedling should be located exactly at the level of the soil, not deeper and not higher. .
lulu FORUMHOUSE user
Look at the place where the trunk ends and the roots begin directly. This point of transition of the trunk to the roots should be at ground level. Strictly.
If the root neck is located high, the roots will be exposed, and over time the apple tree will dry out. If you deepen it, then it will constantly get wet and rot. Such a tree will turn green and even bloom, but you will not wait for the fruits from it.
After checking the level of the root neck, the assistant fills the hole with prepared soil and compacts it, then, regardless of the weather (let the soil settle quickly), the tree is well watered, tree trunks are formed and mulched with peat.
Let's go back to the root neck again. Beginning gardeners often confuse it with grafting. There is such a gardening trick: take a damp cloth and rub it on the seedling where the root goes into the trunk. You will see a place where the brown root turns into a greenish trunk. This is exactly what this place is about.
When planting seedlings, it is important how the groundwater level is located on your site, and what is the composition of the soil. If the GWL is close, the roots of your young trees may be in the water. In principle, this can be avoided.
The age-old question of gardeners and summer residents: “What and when to plant in the country in order to subsequently get a good harvest?”. And this is a very good question, because right time this is the first stage in the rapid establishment of the root system of a tree or shrub.
In a couple, it happens that the plant was planted, and it seemed to be accepted, but now it does not bear fruit or gives a very small crop. The reason for this phenomenon may be precisely the wrong time for planting seedlings.
During the year, two seasons are suitable for updating the garden or planting completely new crops on your site, and many are aware that it is autumn or spring. But few people know what should be planted in the spring, and which plant is more suitable for autumn.
According to agrotechnicians, autumn is the time for planting seedless seedlings and the bulk berry bushes. It is only worth noting that the planting of any seedling or shrub requires compliance with a number of rules and, of course, it is necessary to take into account the features of not only the plant itself, but also the area where the planting is planned.
Benefits of planting trees and shrubs in the fall
What ornamental trees to plant in the fall in the country
Ornamental seedlings are more susceptible to soil temperature during planting. warm earth summer sun more favorable to planting than cold ground after winter.
You can plant as conifers, and deciduous, with the exception of oak with birch. warm ground and regular watering will allow the root system to gain a foothold and take root in the selected area.
- larch;
- juniper;
- Canadian hemlock;
- Pine;
- maple;
- fir;
- alder;
- poplar;
- ash;
- Linden;
What fruit trees and shrubs to plant in the fall in the country
Fruit trees, seedlings of which can be planted on suburban area:
- most varieties of plums;
- Cherry;
- Apple tree;
- cherry plum;
- pear;
- Rowan;
- mulberry.
When planting shrubs, you need to remember that shrubs love sunny secluded places, without drafts and sheltered from the winds.
What shrubs to plant in the fall at their summer cottage:
- gooseberry;
- honeysuckle;
- black currant;
- Red Ribes.
Remember! The advice of agricultural technicians is not strict and categorical rules that must be followed unquestioningly. When planting seedlings of trees and shrubs, be sure to take into account the climatic conditions of the area.
Landing should be carried out at least a month before the onset of the first frost. Some varieties can be planted as early as September.
Watch the video on how to plant grapes with cuttings in the fall
How to plant trees and shrubs in the fall in the country
Seedlings, whether it be a tree or a shrub, require compliance with certain rules, the observance of which allows you to get a beautiful and fruitful garden that will delight all household members.
Prepare the seedling for planting, at this stage it is necessary to cut off all the leaves on the seedling.
When choosing a seedling, pay attention to its standard part, it should be even and without damage. Seedling crown with well-formed main guide branches.
When digging a hole for planting, the earth must be divided into several parts, the top layer should be laid out separately and hard deep layers aside.
Having immersed the seedling in the hole, you need to take into account the fact that at the end the root collar should rise by 5 cm.
Remember that the width of the pit is several times larger than the root system of the seedling.
Upper layer soil must be mixed with humus, with the calculation of 1 bucket - for 1 seedling.
To speed up the process of engraftment of the seedling, you must add to the hole wood ash. Ideally, it is better to add superphosphates.
On top of the added fertilizer, then pour the earth mixed with humus. At this point, the hole should be 2/3 full. Set a peg in the hole and tie a seedling to it. Set the seedling as evenly as possible and only now fill it with the remaining soil. Gently tread the soil around the trunk. 
When is it better to move the autumn planting to spring?
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Nadezhda Nikolaevna, 49 years old. I have been planting grass near my house for many years. Therefore, even experience is available in this area. But my lawn has never looked as gorgeous as after using Aquagrazz! Like heaven and earth. The lawn is juicy, dark green even in the heat. Requires minimal watering.
In the event of a forecast of excessive cold winter or severe frosts that deviate from the norm.
The presence of rodents. If the area is characterized by a population of certain rodents, such as field mice, then autumn landing is not recommended.
It is not worth planting seedlings in the fall if the site is left unattended for the winter and there are unscrupulous neighbors in the district.
What if you missed the landing period and frost on the doorstep?
Unfortunately, it happens as a couple that what you are looking for falls into the hands at the wrong time, for example, a long-awaited seedling was found or purchased after all the allowable planting dates.
- Dropping.
Wrap with a damp cloth.
- Snowing.
Preservation in a cool place (basement or cellar with a temperature not higher than +10 °C).
Watch the video planting raspberry seedlings in the fall
Expert advice on autumn planting trees and shrubs
- When buying a seedling, pay attention to grafting, whether it exists at all in principle. Unfortunately, wanting to cash in some dishonest sellers, offer a wild game, not a grafted seedling.
- It is very simple to determine whether a seedling has been grafted, just look at the transition from the root system to the main trunk, if there is a zigzag shape, the seedling is grafted, but if everything is absolutely even, then no grafting has been performed.
- Do not violate the rules of planting depth. Excessive deepening will result in very poor and rather late fruiting. A planted tree may begin to bear fruit in a few years, and not in the next season.
- Don't forget to compact the ground.
- At autumn landing in no case do not make an irrigation hole around the seedling. Excessive moisture will not benefit the root neck.
Successful planting and abundant fruiting in your garden!
Alina Sokolova, especially for
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