Why and when are fruit trees pruned? Pruning fruit trees: basic rules and techniques

Trimming process fruit trees pursues many goals, the main of which are: care, activation of growth and development processes, as well as protection from diseases. But the most important task, of course, is to increase the quantity and quality of the harvest. However, positive results can only be achieved if the pruning is done technically correctly, with high-quality garden tools, and most importantly - in a timely manner. This article will discuss the correct pruning of fruit trees.

When is it necessary to prune the crown of fruit trees?

For each type and age of fruit trees, there is a period that is most suitable for pruning. The ranges of the procedure can be divided into several.

Autumn-winter. Pruning is carried out immediately after the complete fall of the leaf cover and the end of the movement of tree sap. This period is also called rest time. On the one hand, it is believed that this is the most favorable time for pruning trees. But on the other hand, it is during this period that, due to the lack of movement of tree sap, it is more difficult for the cut sites to heal. In addition, when pruning in low temperatures, you can freeze the shoots, which will lead to their damage and disruption of fruiting function.
Spring-summer. It begins from the moment the first movement of tree sap appears - this is the so-called vegetative period, and lasts until the fruit is harvested. This is the best time to graft and prune fruit trees. An unsatisfactory result can be corrected before the onset of the cold season.

In addition to seasonal guidelines, before you start pruning fruit trees, it is worth considering a number of equally important factors, such as:

site location;
wind speed;
presence of precipitation;
temperature below 0°;

Tools for pruning fruit trees

During the tree pruning period, not only seasonal and weather conditions are fundamental, but also the quality of the tools. The requirements for them are quite simple; they must be as sharp as possible, clean and easy to use. What you might need for pruning.

Secateurs. Refers to a type of garden shears. In addition to the main requirement - the sharpness of the blades, the tool must be light and easy to use, since usually pruning one tree takes quite a lot a long period time. It's important to pay attention to the action ratchet mechanism, it will depend on how hard you have to press the handles. In addition, the blades should have a small gap, otherwise the young shoots will get stuck in them, causing additional work.

Garden hacksaw. The blades must be well sharpened and have a tapered shape towards the end of the blade. The gaps between the teeth should have shallow cavities for the accumulation of sawdust material. Construction saws are not suitable for pruning fruit trees, as they can cause additional damage to the trunk.
Extended pruning shears. Differs from manual option, the presence of a long handle. This form is excellent for cutting shoots that are slightly taller than human height, without the use of additional funds in the form of a stepladder or ladder. There are options with telescopic tube, making it possible to adjust the cutting height.

When pruning trees, you may need additional tools.

Chainsaw will speed up the process of cutting massive trunks, especially for mature trees.

Ladder or stepladder will allow you to form the crown of the fruit tree.
Workwear, complemented by protective gloves, will eliminate unnecessary injuries during work.
Glasses will be needed during cutting, to protect the eyes from sawdust and small chips.

Techniques for forming and pruning fruit trees

Technically speaking, there are three types of tree pruning.

"On the kidney." This pruning method allows you to set the most correct direction for branch growth. As a rule, only young annual shoots are pruned in this way by cutting over the selected bud. During the procedure, the pruning shear blade should be directed towards the branch.

Important: the cutting angle should be as close as possible to 45° so that the bud is not “cut down”. In addition, it is necessary to avoid excessively sharp cuts, in which case the remaining kidney will lack nutrients. And too long a residual shoot may dry out and in the future it will have to be completely cut down, which will disrupt the process of crown formation.

"On the ring." Such pruning is carried out only with the aim of completely removing one or more branches. The reason may be a violation of the penetration of light into the crown or the wrong direction of the branches. In the latter case, the shoots take part of the nutrients, which can be distributed among more promising branches in terms of yield. If the shoot is relatively young and its thickness allows, then pruning is done with pruning shears, otherwise a garden hacksaw is used.

Note: there are a number of nuances that you should not forget about when cutting a branch into a ring. Do not leave an excessively long shoot and do not cut it flush with the bark. It is considered correct to trim along the outer edge of the ring, which is formed by bulges of bark at the junction of the shoot and the trunk.

"On a side branch." This type pruning is the least traumatic for fruit trees and preserves most of their viable functions. Its direct purpose is to change the direction of growth from one shoot to another. Ineffective branches are completely pruned, so that all the main functions are taken over by the side branches, gradually replacing the main ones.

Types of pruning fruit trees

In addition to the various technological aspects of pruning, there are also types of this process that determine further development fruit tree and its yield:

Formative. All actions are aimed at designing the future crown; as a result, the required density and shape should be formed. The best time for such pruning is February, early March. As a result, during the period of active movement of sap, which begins at the end of March, the fruit tree will be maximally fruit-bearing. Late formative pruning will cause delayed plant development or lack of harvest as such.

Important: properly designed skeletal (guide) branches, throughout the entire growth and development of the plant, will serve as a reliable frame that is resistant to any loads, which will allow it to withstand even the heaviest harvest.

Regulating. Suitable for actively growing trees that require minimal adjustment. The illumination of the crown and the density of young shoots must be maintained in proper condition. Potentially successful period: February-April or August-September. During any of these periods, the fresh cut quickly closes and does not release tree sap.
Rejuvenating the species is intended for old trees. The main goal is to restore active fruiting. Pruning time: early spring and late autumn. This pruning is effective in stimulating the growth of new shoots and restoring the viability of a withering tree. Even if an “adult” tree gives good harvest, he still needs rejuvenating pruning from time to time, awakening the adventitious buds.

Seasonal pruning has a number of nuances that should be taken into account in order to avoid causing harm to the fruit tree.

Pruning fruit trees in spring

Spring is the most productive and successful season of the year for pruning fruit trees. It is important to wait for the final change in temperatures after winter so that the last frosts pass. Pruning must be done strictly before the first buds swell. Dry weather with temperatures above 0° will be ideal. Fruit trees should be pruned in the following sequence:
Pruning begins with older trees. After all, they are the main fruit-bearing composition. And only after this can the young seedlings be pruned. The reason lies in different periods awakening the kidneys.
If there are apple trees growing on the site, you need to start with them. After all, it is this tree that is most resistant to frost, and if the temperature drops again, after pruning this tree will not suffer, unlike others. But it is better to prune pears and cherries closer to May.

Regarding shoots, pruning begins with the least promising ones. What does it mean? Dry or damaged by frost, as well as by insects, intersecting with others, these are shoots that interfere with the normal functioning of the crown.
Large fruit branches can only be cut down using the “ring” option. The cut area must be covered with a special solution or wet clay - this way it will heal faster and will not harm the entire tree.

Summer tree pruning

The process of pruning fruit trees can be carried out in summer period. The main purpose of such a procedure is only light adjustments regarding branches damaged by frost, if they have not been identified in early spring. After all, during the period of active flowering it is much easier to identify shortcomings.

In addition to clearing incapacitated shoots, a number of activities can be carried out during this period.

Pinching (clothespin) is the process of cutting off the upper part of a branch. The young shoot can be easily cut with garden shears or pruning shears.

Pinching is an adjustment option that is performed when the buds produce young shoots and it is enough to break them out. The technique is quite similar to standard pruning, the only difference is that pruning occurs without intervention garden tools. Surprisingly, it is this option that has a beneficial effect on tightening the break point; it happens faster and less painfully.

Pruning fruit trees in autumn

The most favorable period for pruning fruit trees is, of course, autumn. It is thanks to it that the tree is prepared for changes in cold temperatures. The most important goal autumn pruning- this is sanitary treatment, that is, the removal of excessive dry, painful and damaged shoots. Thanks to such actions, tree pests and microorganisms will not be able to move to the healthy part of the fruit tree.
Among other things, autumn pruning of trees allows you to create the most effective conditions for ventilation and lighting of the crown. And distributing tree sap to healthy branches will increase yields for next year.

Note: before the onset of cold weather, all large cuts must be treated with a special protective composition, this will have a beneficial effect on speedy healing and preparation for low temperatures. Winter pruning of fruit trees is not recommended.

Fruit tree pruning schemes

Knowing all the principles and types of pruning fruit trees, it is still difficult to imagine where to start the procedure, especially for beginners in the field of gardening. A rough plan for pruning a tree can help a non-specialist in this matter.

First of all, it is worth paying attention to the apical shoots - removing thin forks of branches in the form of “crow's feet”.

Next, you need to get rid of the crossing of branches; to do this, you need to trim the shoots directed towards the soil.
Particular attention should be paid to the space around the trunk: trim branches directed towards it and young shoots.
The formation of the crown is carried out by removing thickening (growing too close) and top branches (shoots from dormant buds).

The described method is ideal for annual pruning of a well-developing tree, but the methods of forming young seedlings and old trees have a number of certain differences.

Pruning young seedlings

From the moment a young seedling is planted in the ground until fruiting begins, main task will form a tree frame from skeletal branches, monitor the growth of fresh shoots and lay down future fruit formations. To ensure all these points, it is necessary to ensure crown growth - evenly in all directions. Therefore, one-year-old shoots and branches that thicken the crown mass are pruned. Actively growing shoots are truncated by 50%, and slower shoots by 25%. Thanks to such manipulations, the crown of a young seedling becomes powerful and fruit-bearing in a few years.
Young seedlings are pruned annually due to their rapid growth. The most successful period for pruning them is considered to be late autumn. After leaf fall, all damaged and excess shoots are removed. This not only allows you to prepare the tree for winter, but also achieves high-quality air exchange and lighting of the crown.

Pruning fruit trees video

Pruning mature fruit trees

It is quite easy to form the crown of new plantings; the main thing is to follow all the rules. But as for old fruit trees, certain steps must be followed. This is due to the fact that the entire harvest on such trees, as a rule, is located at the very top of the crown; the fruits are relatively small size and appear irregularly.
The painstaking process of reviving old fruit trees is carried out over several years and consists of the following activities.
In the first year, the crown is pruned several levels down and only on the south side of the tree. All work should be carried out with the aim of transferring the main branches to the side branch.
Next season in mandatory The “tops” formed during the previous procedure are trimmed. Otherwise they will absorb nutrients, so necessary living parts of the tree. The removal process is carried out “on a ring” basis; the time of year does not affect the quality of the procedure.

In subsequent years, the remaining part of the crown is trimmed, and then the “wolves” are cleared.
The most favorable period for pruning old trees is winter time. This is due to the fact that during this period, fresh cuts do not rot and pests cannot infest them.

There are certain nuances, by observing which you can carry out high-quality pruning of fruit trees, even if a person is doing this for the first time.

When carrying out the most severe pruning (up to 35% of the length of the entire branch), it is imperative to observe a periodicity of a year, or even two. Do not forget that the option of deep pruning is very traumatic for the plant, as a result of which a significant part of it may die.
If you want to get the most out of a fruit tree rapid growth, during the pruning period it is necessary to reduce the main number of fruit-bearing buds.
Do not touch frozen branches of a fruit tree in winter. It is still recommended to wait until spring - then the picture of the dead areas will be more complete and they can be carefully removed.
When pruning, it is important to maintain the subordination of the branches. This means that the number of main and secondary branches must be uniform, otherwise the crown may be oversaturated with branches or excessively thinned out.
When cutting branches around the main trunk, you should not leave branches close to it, i.e. located at an acute angle.
It is important to remember that it is the horizontal branches that have the maximum level of fruiting. This should be taken into account when pruning fruit trees to regulate the amount of harvest.

Large diameter cuts must be processed special composition: garden varnish or heteroauxin - this will speed up the healing of the plant. But the use of oil paint as a coating for cuts is not recommended.
Young trees need to be trimmed minimally - only to form a crown. Excessive changes can lead to deterioration in fruiting properties.

The painstaking work that goes into pruning fruit trees in the garden pays off over time. a decent harvest fruit. The most important thing is to adhere to generally accepted recommendations, because a seemingly simple process at first glance actually requires the performer not only to adhere to technology, but also to be careful.

Planting a garden is only the first step towards reaping a harvest. In order for it to bear fruit well and not get sick, fruit trees need to be pruned. They do it in spring and autumn. Let's talk about spring.

ABOUT By cutting a plant, you injure it. Therefore, it is very important to choose the type and quality of the tool that you use. It depends on them whether the tree will recover quickly.

You will need:

garden knife;
hacksaw.

It is recommended to trim the branches with a knife. Secateurs are easier, but they cause more damage: they compress the wood strongly, and then the wound takes longer to heal. In order for the garden to recover faster, the cut must be even. This can only be achieved with a garden knife.

Amateur gardeners often have a question: when to prune fruit trees in the spring, is it possible after the sap begins to flow? It all depends on the condition of your garden. Did the trunk split, did the branches break under the weight of the snow? Of course, pruning is inevitable. When there is nothing like this, then there is no point in injuring the trees. After all, pruning is not an end in itself. If you form trees according to the rules, you will only need a minimal corrective operation, which you can do without.

Fruit tree pruning – important factor for a healthy and fruitful garden. And you need to do it skillfully. First of all, shoots should be removed:

which extend from the trunk at an acute angle;
directed to the center of the crown;
which do not bear fruit (wolfberry).

There are several rules that professional gardeners always adhere to:

Pruning should begin as soon as the severe frosts have subsided (most often this is the end of January, beginning of March). This way, the wounds will not freeze, and when sap flow begins, they will heal quickly. The cuts should be even and smooth. They need to be lubricated with garden varnish.
You need to trim the shoots above the eyes, which grow outward from the crown. The cut is made from the inside out.
Branches that are a continuation of the trunk should be longer than the others.
On weak trees, short pruning is done. Trim above the second or third eyes.
With strong growth, medium pruning is done. The branches are cut above the fifth eye.
For vigorous trees, long pruning is carried out, leaving eight or more eyes.

Crown formation

Form a crown young tree You can start in the second year of his life and continue for several years. Fruits on apple and pear trees appear on perennial shoots, while plums and cherries bear fruit already on next year after landing. Knowing this, spring pruning fruit trees can be produced without much damage to the future harvest. Non-tiered and sparsely-tiered crown formation systems are common. The latter is ideal for cherries, plums, and cherry plums. The basis of such a crown is a trunk and up to a dozen side branches that grow from the trunk in tiers at a distance of up to twenty centimeters from each other.

So, how to properly prune fruit trees in the spring and form a crown? Proceed as follows:

The conductor is the central shoot; cut it at approximately 80 cm from the base. The main thing: there should be up to a dozen buds left on the guide. New shoots and side branches will come out of them. This is the first tier.
Next year, remove branches damaged over the winter, select three or four strong ones. Delete the rest. This is the second tier.
Therefore, according to the same principle, form the third tier already in the fourth year.
The tree has reached a height of four meters (short fruit trees - maximum), remove the conductor above the upper branch. Thus, stop the growth and completely form the crown of the tree.

Trees need to be pruned regularly: once a year or in spring and autumn. At any time, as necessary, sanitary or corrective pruning is performed.

When pruning fruit trees in spring, the timing is late winter or early spring. This is especially important for apricots, cherries, peaches, and cherry plums. In the summer, pruning is done only to remove tops, branches that contribute to unnecessary density of the crown.

Description: a - shortening of shoots in the first year; b, c - formative pruning of crown shoots along a given contour; d - sanitary pruning (removal of dry branches); d - pruning and thinning in order to improve aeration (before and after); e - rejuvenation of old trees.

Pruning mature fruit trees

Your garden is already bearing fruit. But it, like young trees, requires care and removal of dried or diseased branches. How to properly prune fruit trees in spring?

The thickened crown of a fruit tree needs to be thinned out. After five years, the conductor is removed. This will limit upward growth. Remove the branch completely or partially. Partial removal promote the growth of the branch that is located nearby. It is also necessary to cut off diseased, dried branches - the illumination of the crown improves, the fruits are distributed evenly.

Pruning is best done when the tree is dormant, before sap flow begins.

If the crown is pyramidal (pear - the branches grow upward), the growing branches need to be lowered down: those that are directed downward are left, and those that are directed upward are cut off. In other fruit trees, the branches are directed downwards - they need to be lifted: remove the ones pointing downwards.

To rejuvenate a tree, you will need to cut out the upper part of the trunk and thin out the crown. To do this, you should remove the old branches going inside the crowns that are intertwined. A very dense crown should not be thinned out overnight, so as not to seriously injure the plant; spread out the operation over two to three years.

Schemes for pruning pear, cherry, apple trees

Pruning fruit trees in spring: scheme for pears:

In winter, the branches freeze and tops appear. They are completely removed or trimmed.
If you prune too much, it will weaken the tree and the fruit will appear much later than expected. It is better to do moderate pruning.
It is useful to slightly shorten annual branches. This will only strengthen them.

For cherries, sweet cherries:

Five to seven strong branches are left in young trees, “looking” in different directions. The distance between them is up to 10 centimeters.
All weak branches are removed.
The conductor should be 20 centimeters longer than the others.
Cherries are pruned only in the spring.

For apple trees:

Before you start pruning, you need to clear the trunk and main branches of shoots.
Removing a third of the branches and shoots will rejuvenate the old plant and increase productivity - the main thing is not to overdo it.
Pruning needs to be done over several years.

When working in your garden, consider the experience of other gardeners and do not forget:

When removing branches, do not leave stumps, cut close to the trunk.
A correctly made cut leaves a trace of a neatly overgrown “ring”.
When removing thick branches, first make a cut from the bottom and then from the top. This way, the bark will remain intact if the branch falls.
If the shoot was removed incorrectly, there is damage - clean it, treat the cut with varnish.
It is better to wait until next spring to trim frozen trees.
Fill hollows, drill drainage holes it is forbidden.
If there is a danger of branches breaking under the weight of the fruit, do not place supports. It is better to partially pick off the fruits. Otherwise, the plant will get used to it and will not be able to hold the branches on its own.

You will learn how to properly prune a plant without damaging it by watching the video at the end of the article.

When pruning, the pruning shears should be held with the narrow part towards the branch.
Do you want to form lush crown young tree, shorten the conductor by ¼.
There should be only one conductor. If there are competitors, eliminate them.

A year after planting the plant, shorten its trunk by 20 centimeters and its branches to 7 centimeters. Please note: the branches at the bottom should be longer.

Spring pruning of fruit trees video

A garden in a country house or in the courtyard of a private house is the dream of many people. It's nice to spend time on a bench among the trees with a book in your hands. But people want to see not only nature, but also to have a good harvest in order to collect fruit. The garden needs care. You need to know exactly how and when to prune fruit trees correctly, at what time of year it is better to carry out these actions, because it is from proper care The quality of the harvest will depend.

Why is pruning needed?

Many amateur gardeners believe that they can easily do without pruning fruit trees. In their opinion, the crown will grow on its own, the fruits will appear earlier, and there will be a high harvest. No, this assumption is wrong, correct pruning trees are the key to a long life for fruit trees. Also, the volume of harvest will increase with each season.

If a person does not know how and when to prune fruit trees correctly, and does everything at his own discretion, then the fruits will soon be crushed. With each season there will be less and less fruit, and eventually a year will come that will not bring any harvest at all.

Pruning fruit trees and shrubs is important. Every gardener should understand this and take the right actions. Pruning is necessary for young, old and aging trees. Thus, the wood rejuvenates and bears fruit better. And many valuable varieties bred by breeders especially need pruning. There are specialists who offer their professional services in the garden.

When is pruning done?

Gardeners often do not pay attention special attention for rejuvenation periods garden plot. Let's figure out when spring pruning of fruit trees should be done.

The best time is the end of February or the beginning of March, when the danger of return passes severe frosts. Pruning begins with young seed orchards. First, these are pear and apple trees, black and red currants (if the thickness of the snow allows).

At the end of March or at the beginning of April, most of the crops are pruned. First these are pome trees, then stone fruit trees. Young crops should be trimmed before sap flow begins, as in more late dates plants weaken with each lost branch.

In May-June, pruning is carried out during the flowering of trees and shrubs. Adult plants can be rejuvenated even after sap flow, thus reducing the recovery processes of growth.

Care in the warm season

In summer, some crops are also pruned. This procedure allows you to delay the tree’s flowering for the next year, which helps minimize crop loss during early frosts (for example, this is true for apricots). They also break out and pinch out unnecessary shoots. IN summer season trimmed ornamental plants. To renew flowering, remove inflorescences and flowers.

How and when to prune correctly in the fall? Is it possible to carry out such procedures this season? Yes, for restoration and rejuvenation of neglected apple trees, red currants, raspberries and many others.

If gardeners know how to prune fruit trees in the spring, then the garden harvest will always delight the owner with healthy and juicy fruits. The plant will live for many years.

Existing types

Used for rejuvenation of trees and shrubs different types trimmings, there are about five of them, combination is also possible.

The first type is formative. Initially, you need to give the desired shape and size to the crown. But you need to know how to prune fruit trees correctly. All excess branches are cut off at the very trunk, large ones - by a third, thin ones - by half.

The second type is regulatory. Aimed at maintaining a balance between crown growth and fruiting. All vertical, skeletal branches and shoots inside the tree are trimmed. Such actions will give the crown the shape of a pyramid.

The third type is rejuvenating. This pruning is carried out to maximize the growth of all branches (old and young).

The fourth type is restorative. If the tree or its branches have been exposed to frost or mechanical damage, then carry out partial pruning.

The fifth type is sanitary. This is pruning of damaged, diseased, dry or broken branches. In practice, gardeners often combine all types of rejuvenation.

Decent care prolongs the life of plants

In order to understand how and when to prune fruit trees correctly, it is enough to study the literature and try to apply the knowledge gained. Often people turn to specialists for help. Fruit tree pruning is different from pruning ornamental shrubs, because pears, apricots, apple trees, currants, and cherries are grown to produce tasty fruits and berries. When inexperienced gardeners do the pruning themselves, the shoots often grow a little later. They need to be removed, possibly several times. If you properly care for trees that have large roots, they can live up to thirty years. Vegetation with short roots bears fruit much earlier (three years after planting).

Apple tree pruning

Each fruit tree needs separate care. The apple tree is quite popular in our country. It grows in almost every garden. Pruning apple trees depends on the general condition of the tree: age, structural features, crown. In a separate period of time they produce different actions. At the time when the apple tree bears fruit, it is pruned according to the regulatory type. During the aging period, rejuvenation is carried out. During the growth and development of the tree, formative pruning is carried out.

If the apple tree is quite old, then it needs special care. As a rule, such trees have many small fruits located at the very top. Apple trees are tall and have many dying branches. This tree needs to be pruned gradually, over 2-3 years. Start from the south side. A low and narrow crown is suitable for apple trees.

Pruning stone fruit trees and berry bushes

Gardeners want to get the most out of their garden. For this purpose, there are as many fruit trees and berries as possible. In pears, the crown itself is similar to a pyramid, and therefore does not require constant adjustment. One problem: the tree quickly puts out vertical branches, some need to be removed, while the rest must be turned into fruit-bearing ones.

Stone fruit plants form from the age of two to four years. For a long time It is impossible to delay pruning, since cherries, plums and cherries are very difficult to bring into the required form. Fruit-bearing stone fruit trees have difficulty with removing large branches.

In spring, currants, gooseberries, raspberries, and blackberries require anti-aging pruning.

Shortening and thinning

There are two ways to prune fruit trees. The first is called shortening - partial shoots and branches are removed. This approach stimulates bud growth. You can shorten it strongly, by half the branch, moderately - by one third, and weakly - a quarter of the shoot is removed. Using this method, trees are rejuvenated. If the branches are large and old, then severe pruning is performed.

The second method is called thinning (cutting). In this case, branches and shoots are completely removed. The method is suitable for fruits that are too thick.

If you properly care for your garden, fresh and juicy fruits will always be on your table!

For a novice gardener, the problem of when to prune trees in the garden is always acute, because such a procedure is one of the most effective ways to increase fruit yield, protection from pests and manipulation, significantly increasing the life of the plant. If you approach this problem responsibly, you can correctly shape the crown of the tree, which will give it an aesthetic appearance and ensure the flow of oxygen and solar heat to each individual branch, and this will have a positive effect on the number of fruits grown. In addition, pruning eliminates the possibility of trees starting to outgrow their width and height.

The most suitable time for this is in the fall or spring. If the gardener is lazy, then his trees threaten to become overgrown with foliage, which leads to a decrease in the size of the fruits on them. On the other hand, if you prune too fanatically, the fruiting time will increase due to the fact that the abundance of removed branches negatively affects the maturation of the plant itself. Therefore, everyone needs to know how to prune trees correctly and when to do it.

Types of pruning

Experienced gardeners know that there are different types of pruning, and each of them has a specific purpose.

Here are the most popular ones:

Pruning immediately after planting. It is carried out in order to achieve harmony between the roots of a young plant, if they are damaged, and aboveground part, which is untouched. At the right approach helps the root take root in the planted soil faster.
Shortening pruning. Prevents uncontrolled growth of branches in different directions, and also allows for a balance between branches of the same order. Has a positive effect on branching and allows pruning fruit trees so as to most effectively shape their future crown.
Healthy pruning. The main goal is to remove dead, infected or deformed branches. If it is clearly visible that they are diseased, they are eliminated with a small amount of healthy wood so that the disease does not progress further. Then the removed branches are burned. It is recommended to prune fruit trees, starting with healthy cleaning of the crown, and only then moving on to other branches, starting from that appearance, which the gardener imagines.
Supportive. It consists of shortening branches that are too large, as well as those that grow in the wrong direction (downwards or inwards). This gives the tree an additional air flow and does not allow it to grow chaotically in different directions.

Having become familiar with each of the ways pruning can be done garden trees, the gardener can navigate how much each individual tree needs it.

The effect of pruning on the condition and fruiting of the tree

In some way, each pruning is stress for the plant, but with its help you can regulate the time of fruiting and general development tree trunk. Remember, there are two sides to every coin, for example, if you eliminate branches that grow in the wrong direction and add unnecessary density to the canopy, while not using shortening of annual growth, this strategy will significantly speed up the time for the tree to begin to bear fruit. Especially when compared with specimens to which similar methods were not used. However, this risks the fact that the crown will be long-legged and unstable, and the branches will become characterized by weakness and a short life span, which is not much different from an unpruned representative of the flora.

When pruning, inexperienced gardeners often sin by shortening the branches too much. If one-year growths of a young and actively growing nut are shortened extensively and without any reason, this will lead to unnecessary density of the crown and a delayed onset of fruiting. If the variety is characterized by fruits at the very end of long branches, then fanatical shortening will lead to a significant reduction in the number of fruits. In addition, you should know that thoughtless pruning reduces the tolerance to cold in winter. Strong pruning is justified only if the plant is young, but its growth is weak.

It is necessary to take into account that if you combine cutting with slight or medium pruning of one-year growth, this will slightly delay (maximum 2 years) fruiting during the first couple of harvests, but not their level as a whole. The advantages of this will be a superbly built crown, characterized by strength, besides, the branches will be more stable, and there will be more fruit on them.

If the gardener wants to ensure that the fruits are consistently large, it is necessary to intensively prune the annual growth every year, but also take into account that the total yield from a particular tree will be significantly reduced. The crown of such trees becomes dense, and a lot of time has to be spent eliminating unnecessary branches that will weaken the yield potential.

Beginning gardeners are interested in how to prune each specific tree, because the methods vary depending not only on the species, but also on the variety. For example, when pruning walnuts, mulberries and grapes, most often only dried shoots that interfere with growth are removed. Each vine requires active and painstaking attention. Pruning of stone fruits (cherries, cherries, apricots) begins with fruit-bearing specimens in order to do so before the awakening of stone fruit buds, which wake up earlier than vegetative ones.

One-year-old growths (last year's shoots) must be pruned every year or at least every other year. By combining cutting and pruning, you can achieve a neat and strong crown. In the process of pruning growths, moderation is needed, otherwise young trees will lose fruitfulness by forming unnecessary skeletal branches that choke the fruit branches. This also risks the fact that next season the gardener will have to tinker more with trimming excess branches, fearing that they will thicken the crown and reduce cold tolerance.

It should be remembered that intensive pruning is only necessary if it is necessary to weaken individual branches that are beginning to compete with the conductors or could potentially interfere with other smaller branches. Do not prune branches that have regained a horizontal position after gartering; pruning should also be avoided in cases where it concerns powerful intermediate branches that are in a horizontal position. If you do not follow these rules, the gardener will absolutely unreasonably delay the appearance of fruits on pruned branches and reduce their number.

Pruning of such representatives of garden flora as pears and apple trees must begin in mid-spring, trying to do it before the juice begins to circulate. If the growth from last year reaches half a meter in size and looks healthy, then this is good and there is no need to touch anything. If they have barely reached the 18-20 cm mark, then you need to start by looking for a problem that affects the general condition of the plant. For example, the reason for this may be branches that extend from the tree trunk at sharp angles. Remember that a tree should have one top, and feel free to eliminate them.

Skeletal branches, if they overtake each other in growth, can become a potential problem in the future, so they should be pruned in tiers. Calculate so that one tier is 16 cm lower than the previous one. Having finished pruning, move on to annual shoots; they need to be cut by about a third of their length so that there are no difficulties with branching in the future.

A special approach is required for those trees that form a crown in the form of a pyramid. When pruning, try not to touch the topmost bud, which is most often located with outside. If the tree is spreading, then, on the contrary, a bud is left on the inner side. The powerful branches of the pyramidal tree are directed outward when pruned. Those branches that grow at an acute angle are eliminated almost to the base; in extreme cases, leave 20 cm of shoots under the “stump”.

Trim time

Both beginners and experienced gardeners are often confused about the best time to prune trees. You need to understand that the processes that trees undergo in autumn and spring are completely different. In particular, if pruning occurs in the spring, this stimulates vegetative processes. If in summer time, then this promotes the formation of shoots and allows the branches to ripen better. Traditions say that perfect time comes with the beginning of spring (March-April), but for some decorative species it's disastrous.

Spring-summer pruning

The last ten days of February and the first of March - optimal time to begin sanitary pruning. It promotes the development of shoots and harmoniously combines with the rhythms by which plants live.

If you trim in the first ten days of June, when summer is just coming into its own, then you need to focus on taking into account the pair important features.

This slows down vegetative processes, and pruning of individual branches can last until the last ten days of August.
In general, expect that the more often you prune now, the less you will have to do in the future.
Pruning is carried out only after the trees have already bloomed or the flow of juice has completed (in cherries, mulberries, grapes). Remember that pruning has less impact on the tree if it is covered with leaves: then the injuries will heal faster.

The most favorable time for pruning fruit trees, such as pear and apple trees, is in spring period when the daytime temperature exceeds 0ºС. On the contrary, it is better not to touch plums and peaches at this time, as the risk that they will begin to hurt increases. You can start working on them when the first buds appear or leaves bloom. As a last resort, it is quite possible to postpone pruning until the summer.

It is best to prune apricots in the summer, because this makes it possible to accurately determine which type of procedure will be optimal. In addition, pruning carried out in an atmosphere of established heat will increase the frost resistance of trees and provide immunity to temperature changes.

If a gardener discovers that a tree has not survived the winter well, then pruning should begin no earlier than May-June; if the damage from the cold is minor, then it is permissible to treat it immediately, thereby stimulating its growth.

Autumn pruning

Experienced gardeners note that cutting in the fall has a negative effect on most trees. This primarily applies to cherries, pears and plums. Unless absolutely necessary, they should not be disturbed during this period; it is better to postpone all work until spring.

Young trees are also very sensitive to autumn pruning, to the point that the fragile plant may disappear. If one-year growth is cut off, the risk increases that the cut site will freeze, affecting the nearby area. Of course, the wound will not be able to heal quickly and efficiently, which will lead to problems in the future.

Most often, autumn is used as a time aimed exclusively at sanitary pruning. Winter, with its cold weather, is a time that it is better for a tree to meet without aggravating damage. If the plant is seriously damaged, there is little chance that it will survive the cold season. Most often, the buds that remain on the shortened branches of a young plant do not open when spring arrives. It is important to know that pruning in autumn is possible only if the air temperature does not exceed -5ºC.

Finally, we can add that proper pruning will significantly increase the yield of fruit obtained, the plant itself will become stronger and healthier, and the gardener will be pleased with the elegant appearance of his plot.

Fruit tree pruning- a complex event that takes place in the garden in November. Sometimes it is very difficult to understand, especially for a beginner, how to prune fruit trees correctly and when to prune.

Let's consider in detail: how to properly prune fruit trees for beginners, where to start, when and how to prune trees, step by step description with photos and videos.

At the end of October - beginning of November, all work in the garden should already be completed: perennial flowers and shrubs should be pruned and covered for the winter, the water should be turned off, the equipment should be put away for storage - you can calmly wait for the next season.

But this is not so, because autumn is the time for pruning fruit trees and shrubs, and is usually carried out before the first night frosts, when the foliage begins to turn yellow.

Firstly, the growing season is over, and pruning will not provoke the growth of new shoots; juice will not leak through the wounds, since sap flow has ended. Compared to winter pruning of trees, the wounds left from autumn pruning will not freeze, and the bark will not peel off at the cut sites.

Properly pruned trees After winter they begin to bear fruit very well. In the spring, you simply may not have time to prune before the sap begins to flow; it happens that spring comes quickly.

Attention: Pruning of fruit trees in the fall (late October - November) is carried out in regions with moderate climatic conditions. It is not recommended to do this in the northern regions; the plants will not have time to recover before the onset of cold weather, and the bark at the cut site may freeze. From such damage, the bark dries out and cracks, which leads to the death of plants.
In the northern regions, it is better to prune trees and shrubs in September - early October.

Tree pruning– it’s not a simple matter, it has many nuances. Let's consider simple recommendations tree pruning that anyone can handle.

Pruning is necessary to form a balanced, beautiful tree, each branch of which will have the strength to bear fruit.

Crown thinning is a creation the best conditions for the formation of not only fruits, but the largest, healthiest and most beautiful ones.

Sanitary pruning – preventative measure aimed at forming good health plants. By systematically pruning, you give your tree the opportunity to become long-lived.

In the pruning in the pictures, everything seems to be clear, but when you approach the tree, you are simply lost in the sight of a huge number of branches sticking out in all directions in front of you.

For pruning we need the following tools: a hacksaw, regular and long-handled pruning shears, a sharp garden knife, oil paint - if pruning in the fall, and garden varnish - if pruning in the spring.

Attention: Make any cuts strictly to the ring; the health and even life of the tree depends on this.

If you cut a branch with a hole– the layers of the trunk through which the juice flows are damaged. If you leave the stump, the bark will peel off and the wood will begin to rot. Over time, such a cut will turn into a hollow with a bunch of diseases that can spread to the entire tree.

Proper pruning It is carried out in an annular flow; it promotes rapid healing of the wound and healthy bark around the cut. Only the part of the cut branch located near the trunk is scarred.

Slice definitely needs to be processed oil paint- V autumn period. This treatment is carried out annually.

Large branches are cut in 3 stages.

They start cutting a thick branch from the bottom, making an undercut, otherwise the branch may break under its own weight and the bark will tear.
Then the branch is cut down above the bottom cut.

And the final stage, when the branch is removed and nothing is in the way, a leveling cut is made onto the ring. With a sharp knife clean out all the uneven surfaces and paint.

After autumn pruning of young seedlings, it is recommended to water them immediately after completion of the procedure. You can also fertilize mineral fertilizers who will help young plant cope better with stress.

Correct tree crown shaping it is necessary to start from the moment the seedling is planted. The very first thing to do is to form the correct standard (the lower branches must grow at a certain height from the ground). All branches and buds at a height from the ground to 40 cm are removed.

If there are no branches on the young seedling yet, then it is recommended to trim the crown; in the spring, young branches will begin to grow from all the buds, from which you will need to select the strongest ones.

Video – Master class on pruning fruit trees

At this stage of pruning, the crown of the tree is formed. Basic Rule– skeletal branches should diverge in different directions and form a large angle with the trunk.

The more horizontal the branch is, the better it bears fruit and holds the weight of the fruit. Vertical branches bear fruit poorly and often break.

Trim off all unnecessary and weak branches, leaving 3-4 skeletal. If another tier of branches is formed on the tree, then we do the same.

Now let's take care of getting a quick harvest, for this we need shorten long branches to a bud. The weaker the branch, the shorter we cut it, this will encourage stronger growth next year.

If the frame branches grow incorrectly, they should not be pruned, otherwise you will not get a harvest. It is better to stretch them, giving the right direction growth.