Can tree seedlings be planted? Autumn planting of fruit trees

In the death of a planted tree, summer residents usually blame a bad seedling, climate, or problem area. And even thoughts do not allow that failure can be associated with the mistakes that they themselves make when landing. Which of them are the most common?

AUTUMN LANDING

PROS:

Big choice planting material- by quality, varieties and prices

Sufficient period for planting (from late September to mid-October)

Minimum care for seedlings after planting

MINUSES:

Hard frost can kill trees

Strong winds and sleet can break fragile plants

Seedlings are often damaged by rodents

Dubious place to buy a seedling

So many articles have been written on this topic, but summer residents continue to step on the same rake. Do not buy seedlings on the road! Even if they are half the price there. There is a great risk that you will be sold in best case a plant of a different variety or breed than you ask for, at worst, an unregional variety or a diseased plant, which, moreover, can become a breeding ground for diseases and pests in the garden.

In autumn, it is important to finish planting seedlings no later than 20 days before the soil freezes.

Don't be too lazy to visit a reputable nursery in your area, which will offer a wide range of seedlings, perhaps even dug in front of you, and give expert advice on planting and caring for the plant.

For planting, it is better to choose annual seedlings - they take root well. Biennial plants are also suitable.

UNSUITABLE PLANT DATE

Alas, not all plants are suitable for autumn planting. First of all, this applies to cherries, cherries, peaches. Their seedlings often do not have time to take root before winter (especially in the northern regions) and die due to an immature root system. But it is better to buy these plants in the fall, and leave them in a prikope for the winter.

Apple and pear trees are traditionally planted in autumn, as well as berry bushes. In any case, planting in the middle lane must be done before mid-October, in the northern regions - before the first decade of October, and in the southern regions they are often planted until mid-November.

IMPROPERLY PREPARED PIT

Landing pits should be prepared no later than 2 weeks before planting. But if you did not plan new plantings, and then unexpectedly bought or received a good seedling as a gift, you can dig a hole 2-3 days before planting. And temporarily dig the plant in the shaded part of the site: make a groove so that the roots fit in it, lay the seedling at an angle, sprinkle the roots with soil and pour a bucket of water.

TIP: After planting, cut the seedling, but preferably already next spring(in March). At annual plant to encourage crown formation, cut off the top, leaving 5-6 developed buds from the ground. A two-year-old seedling should have a bole 40-50 cm high, 4-5 main branches diverging at least 40 degrees from the trunk, and a conductor.

Dig a planting hole, focusing on the size of the roots of the seedling - they should fit freely there. When digging, set aside the upper fertile layer in one direction, and the lower infertile layer in the other. Put a shovel on the bottom broken brick, top - mixture fertile soil, humus and river sand (in approximately equal parts), adding 15 g of nitroammophoska. Pour out 10 liters of water. After a couple of days, install a seedling on a mound. Make sure that the roots lie freely, without bends and in no case are directed upwards.

DEEPING THE ROOT NECK

In a newly planted seedling, the root neck should be at a height of 2.5-3.5 cm from the soil surface. After watering, the earth will settle, and the root neck will be at the level of the soil. If you deepen the root neck, the tree will later bear fruit.

OUR REFERENCE

Root neck - the place where the roots go into the trunk. Novice gardeners sometimes confuse the root collar and the grafting site (located 5-7 cm above the root collar). And as a result, they plant a tree incorrectly, deepening it to the place of vaccination.

NON-COMPLIANCE WITH LANDING PATTERNS

The desire of summer residents to plant on small area how can more plants quite natural. But the growing trees over time obscure each other and compete for food in the soil. Next in the table we give landing schemes.

OVERWATERING

After planting, seedlings are often flooded with water. In autumn, one watering (Yul) after planting is enough, and then rains will provide the necessary soil moisture and comfort for the seedlings. If there is a drought and heat air, you can water a bucket of water every three days.

Autumn plantings have their own specifics, especially in the central zone of Russia. Ignoring this fact, you can do a lot of trouble, so today we remind you of a few important rules, following which will allow you to avoid typical autumn mistakes.

AUTUMN PLANTING OF TREES AND SHRUBS

FIRST RULE: NOT EVERYTHING SHOULD BE PLANTED IN AUTUMN
Bare-root trees should not be planted in autumn if one of the following applies to the seedling:

• this plant by virtue of its biological features does not tolerate transplant;
• this variety or species of plants has a problem with winter hardiness in our climate;
• this tree was grown in a different climatic zone and we have not wintered a single winter.

In the first case, we are talking primarily about deciduous trees with a taproot and slightly branched root system - birches, oaks, chestnuts, nuts, velvets, and so on, as well as such shrubs as hawthorn. A transplant with bare roots is very poorly tolerated by all conifers, except for larch.

As for winter hardiness, trees such as chestnuts and almost all fruit trees fall into the risk zone here, with the possible exception of the most winter-hardy local varieties of apple trees. And finally, we do not recommend planting in the fall with bare roots any species and varieties of trees that have just been brought from Europe. A plant that has lost a significant part of its roots may not be able to overpower the reconfiguration to other biological rhythms.

Container plants - whether trees or shrubs, deciduous or coniferous - can be planted in autumn. There is only one “but”: if the tree has been in the container for a very long time, if its roots have already outgrown the volume offered by it and have begun to twist in rings, the plant may not take root well. Roots in a twisted state will not be able to immediately begin to function on full power, therefore it is better not to purchase such a plant for planting in the fall.

Trees and shrubs with a clod of earth are transplanted in the fall in the same way as container ones. But the state of the coma must be studied very meticulously: if it shook, the earth crumbled, you are actually dealing with bare roots, only powdered with soil, and this can be deadly for the plant in all cases listed above for such a situation.

In general, the lump must be handled with extreme care, trying not to injure it once again. If a lump is packed in a mesh (metal or filament) or in burlap, in no case try to get rid of them. This kind of packaging is made from materials that decompose in the ground and will not harm the growth of roots at all.

SECOND RULE: ONLY THAT IS NO LONGER GROWING TO PLANT
When planting in the fall, you need to make sure that the growth of the selected plants is over for this season. Active vegetation is completed if the apical buds are formed, and the shoots are lignified along the entire length. Otherwise, when the tree goes into winter before the end of the growing season, it will definitely freeze.

You need to be especially careful when buying imported plants, as well as if the summer turned out to be very dry, and it rained only in August. Plants from other climatic zones, just brought to Russia, may not yet master the biological rhythms of the new area. And in dry years, a stormy vegetation often begins very late, only with August rains. In both the first and second cases, we get trees by the beginning of the planting season that are completely unprepared for wintering.

RULE THREE: DON'T LATE YOUR PLANTING DATES
It is believed that in our climatic zone it is better to plant trees and shrubs with an open root system before October 10, because the seedlings still have to have a margin of time to put up young roots in a new place.

If the tree has time to form new roots in unfamiliar soil, it root system begins to function at full capacity, and the transplanted plant will survive all the winter hardships much easier. This is especially true for trees and shrubs that are hard to take root (see the first rule).

Of course, landing dates may shift slightly depending on the specific weather conditions. So, in the abnormally warm winter that once fell to us, enthusiasts continued to plant almost until the beginning of December, but this, of course, was already too big audacity.

Again, when we talk about October 10, we are referring to plants with bare roots. Capital research on container plants was simply not carried out in Russia, since the latter appeared relatively recently, in the latest era of the onset of imports. But we believe that it is not worth moving away from October 10 with containers too far.

RULE 4: DON'T OVERDO FERTILIZER
This is a very important condition for a successful autumn planting. In autumn, only phosphorus fertilizer can be applied to the planting pit. Phosphorus promotes root formation and is safe for the plant in high concentrations.

Nitrogen, potassium and calcium in high concentrations (and when fertilizers are applied to the planting pit, we get a high concentration of them) will not only not stimulate the growth of new roots, but, on the contrary, will seriously impede the functioning of the existing root system. Introduced in the fall, these additives can be detrimental to the transplanted plant.

Accordingly, neither manure (neither fresh nor rotted), nor lime in the fall should be added for planting in any case. They can be made in advance, in the spring, for general soil preparation.

The only thing that can still support a newly planted plant is root formation stimulants: root and humates. The preparations are diluted with water and applied during irrigation in the quantities indicated on the packaging by the manufacturer.

RULE FIVE: LANDINGS NEED PROTECTION
When planting in the fall, do not forget about a set of measures that will help the plant survive the winter hardships. We are talking about mulching the trunk circle, protecting the bole from sunburn, mice and hares, installation of supports and protection of the crown from snowfall.

Mulching with all kinds organic materials- peat, crushed bark, sawdust, straw - saves the roots from frost and helps retain moisture in the soil.

After warming the roots, think about the fight against mice. After all, organic mulch (especially straw, sawdust, bark) will attract them very much. Be sure to protect the fruit, as well as decorative varieties apple trees, plums, pears. But we would advise in general to provide all newly planted trees with protection, if such an opportunity exists. I have seen, for example, how mice gnawed at the cambium even on ash and Chinese poplars.

Actually, the protection itself is sold in the store - this is such a thin plastic spiral mesh that is put on the trunk. If you have a problem with hares on the site, a similar protection against hares must also be purchased. To learn more, read the article How to protect your garden from rodents in winter and watch the video An easy way to protect trees from rodents.

But from sunburn, the tree should be saved with the help of whitewashing. Best to use water-based paint, preferably a special garden. If the whitewash does not include a fungicide, it would be nice to add it - this will simultaneously protect the tree from pests. At the end of February, the whitewash does not hurt to renew if the autumn rains washed it away.

A tie to the support of a tree planted before winter (however, like a tree planted in spring) is a must! In no case should the tree sway in the wind, setting the root system in motion - in this case, rooting will be problematic. If the tree is small, one or two supports are enough; mature plant needs a stretch system.

And finally, do not forget to protect the crown from a snowbreaker by tying it with twine. This is especially true for trees with a pyramidal and columnar crown shape - for all those whose branches depart from the trunk at an acute angle. And twice it is relevant for conifers with a similar crown shape - junipers, thujas, cypresses. Shrubs also do not hurt to protect from snowfall.

Good luck landing!

autumn planting trees and shrubs is practiced by gardeners not only in our country, but also in Ukraine and Belarus. The most appropriate autumn planting in the middle lane, including the suburbs. During this period, it is allowed to plant berry bushes and young ornamental horticultural crops, stone fruit and fruit plants, fruit seedlings, as well as perennial deciduous trees.

Features of the autumn planting of fruit crops

Proper planting of fruit crops in the fall at the optimum time guarantees a high survival rate and a highly productive plant in the future. Among other things, landing fruit seedlings in autumn time It has many advantages, among which the most significant are the following:

• in autumn, a significant part of nurseries, as well as amateur gardeners, begin to sell freshly dug up planting material, which guarantees a rich choice and affordable price;
• it is easy to assess the quality of the purchased material by conducting visual inspection, both the aerial part and the root system of the plant;
• autumn planting does not cause many problems even for novice gardeners, and autumn rains can provide fruit seedlings required level of humidity and sufficient comfortable conditions for rooting;

• timely planted plants are able to grow thin absorbent roots before the onset of stable frosts, which has a positive effect on spring growth;
• there is no need to save planting material until spring, using enough difficult ways snowing or digging into the ground;
• autumn planting frees up time in spring period for others, no less important works including crops.

However, it is very important to consider that not all fruit trees take root well when planted before winter, so you should definitely know what types of horticultural crops can be planted in autumn on the site.

Type of fruit crop	Latin	Varieties for planting in the fall	Distance between rows	Distance between plants
Pear	Pyrus	"Cathedral", "Lada", "Michurinskaya Beauty", "Muscovite", "Elegant Efimova", "Otradnenskaya", "In Memory of Vavilov", "Severyanka", "Severyanka Chelyabinskaya" and "Chizhovskaya"	4 to 8 meters depending on varietal features and rootstock type	From one and a half to five meters, depending on the varietal characteristics and type of rootstock
Apple tree	Malus	Moscow Pear, Antonovka Ordinary, Babushkino, Cinnamon Striped, Korobovka, Bessemyanka Michurinskaya, Cowberry, July Chernenko, Melba, Early Pear, Autumn Joy , "Rossiyanka", "Young Naturalist", "Cypress", "Student" and ""
Plum	Prunus	"Artistic", "Joy", "Meteor", "Superearly", "Memory of Timiryazev", "Etude"	3-4 meters	2.5-3.5 meters
Apricot	Prunus armeniaca	"Hardy", "Red-cheeked", "Beloved", "Honey", "Russian", "Snegiryok" and "Northern Triumph"
Peach	Prunus persica	"Fluffy early", "Juicy" and "Winter-hardy".
Sweet cherry	Prunus avium	"Tyutchevka", "Fatezh", "Ovstuzhenka" and "Bryansk"
Cherry	Prunus cerasus	"Zagrebinskaya", "Sverdlovchanka", "Ural Standard", Gridnevskaya, "Vole Michurin", "Generous" and "Mayak"

Also in the fall it is allowed to plant such berry bushes as:

• currant black, white and red;
• chokeberry;
• gooseberry;
• raspberry;
• honeysuckle;
• sea ​​​​buckthorn.

Features of the autumn planting of ornamental plants

Planting season when growing ornamental crops in our country begins in mid-September, at the stage of slowing down life processes. Thus, properly planted crops in the spring spend their energy not on rooting, but on active development.

Experts recommend to give preference autumn landing ornamental plants grown in containers. It is during this period that almost all conifers take root and quickly take root, including spruces and pines, as well as large-sized trees, which can be planted even with the onset of slight frosts.

How to plant trees and shrubs in autumn (video)

During this period, there is an intensive growth of the root system after transplantation and young plant is able to actively increase the root mass lost during the transplantation process. An exception is birch seedlings, which are planted on permanent place rescheduled for spring.

Optimal timing and planting technology

Within the territory of middle lane In Russia, autumn planting is carried out from mid-September to the second decade of October. Planting in the northern regions and regions characterized by unfavorable soil and climatic conditions should begin in the first ten days of September and be completed before the beginning of October. Southern regions enjoy more favorable weather conditions autumn period, so the main planting period here lasts from October until about the second decade of November.

However, the most important condition for correctly determining the best time for planting seedlings of any crops is the period of onset of biological dormancy, which is accompanied by the end of leaf fall. It is very important to remember that seedlings dug up to the stage of leaf fall have unripened shoots, therefore they freeze in the winter in the first place.

The technology of autumn planting may vary depending on the age of the planting material, as well as the varietal and species characteristics of the plant. However, there are general rules, allowing you to perform landing work with minimal risk of plant death in winter:

• preparation of the site for autumn planting should be carried out in advance, at least a couple of weeks before planting;
• if necessary, a deep digging of the soil is carried out and the most thorough removal of all weeds;
• if soil fertility indicators do not correspond to the recommended parameters for growing horticultural crops, then basic complex fertilizers must be applied;
• the dimensions of the pre-prepared planting pit must necessarily be about one and a half or two times larger than the diameter of the earthen clod around the root system of the planted plant;
• very good result gives a spill of soil in the planting pit with a solution based on such growth stimulants as "Zircon" or "Kornevin";
• after landing in without fail watering is carried out, as well as mulching of tree trunks with high-quality organic matter.

When planting plants with an open root system, it is important to ensure that the root system does not dry out. It is also impossible to carry out the deepening of the root neck of trees. Landing large-sized has its own characteristics and involves the mandatory installation of special supports or stretch marks, which will reduce Negative influence strong wind and allow the plant to take root as soon as possible.

Frost and rodent protection

Of no small importance is the high-quality protection of planted fruit or ornamental crops from severe frosts, as well as damage by rodents:

• young, growing far from the stem part of the branch on apple and pear trees, should be tied to the trunk, which will protect them from breaking off in winter;
• branches and shoots on young currant and gooseberry bushes need to be pulled together with soft wire or strong rope;
• bushes of other berry bushes and ornamental plants are also recommended to be tied with twine, which will improve their overwintering, and also contribute to the preservation of fruit buds;
• decorative heat-loving exotics need to create shelter, which should be provided to plants immediately before the onset of stable frosts;
• for the winter period, trunk circles are best overlaid with natural mulching materials, which can be straw, hay, wood chips and sawdust, which pass moisture and air well, but protect the plant from severe frosts;
• best remedy to protect fruit and ornamental plants from damage by hares, the site is still fenced with special galvanized nets;
• to fight voles, it is recommended to fill their holes with special baits, represented by wheat grains poisoned with zinc phosphide.

It should be noted that, according to experts, it is not advisable to use agrofiber and films to protect conifers. In this case, it is preferable to use a rare burlap. Important to remember, that autumn whitewashing is of practical importance, and allows in February-March to protect planted trees from getting sunburn.

In the autumn period, seedlings when planting can be fed exclusively phosphate fertilizers that stimulate the proper development of the root system. An increased concentration of nitrogen-containing fertilizers in the soil often becomes detrimental to the plant, which can enter the re-vegetation and does not have time to prepare for winter period. For the same reason, manure cannot be applied during autumn plantings.

What plants to plant before winter (video)

A big mistake is also the implementation of the autumn planting of seedlings grown and brought from more northern regions, as well as varieties and hybrids that do not have high winter hardiness. As a rule, such plants do not have time to take root and acclimatize well in a short autumn season, as a result of which they freeze out in the first winter or stop in their development.

Have you noticed that seedlings fruit trees and shrubs are sold in spring and autumn? Does this mean that planting seedlings of fruit trees in autumn is as favorable as in spring? Everyone has their own opinion on this matter, but the fact that some fruits and berries are best rooted at the end of the season is a fact. This article is all about the benefits of planting seedlings of fruit crops in the fall, preparing plants for planting, improving survival and preserving young trees in winter.

Fall: time to plant fruit trees

Autumn planting has its own characteristics and advantages, which are worth talking about in more detail.

The advantages of planting fruit trees in autumn can be considered:

1. A large assortment of healthy and strong seedlings, which nurseries and amateur gardeners offer for sale in early autumn.
2. A simple planting algorithm, the possibility of carrying out only one watering of seedlings, in the future, soil moistening will occur due to precipitation.
3. Good conditions for the rapid formation of a mass of adventitious roots on seedlings of pome and stone fruit crops. The growth of the root system during planting fruit seedlings in autumn continues until the temperature drops to +4C.
4. The absence of pests that are already preparing for wintering and cannot damage the established seedlings.
5. Seedlings rooted in autumn develop better next spring - leaves appear on the trees earlier, plants are stronger and more stable than those specimens that were transplanted in spring. Overwintered seedlings are not afraid of return frosts, do not suffer from a sharp temperature drop.
6. In autumn, the gardener appears free time, which can be used to expand the garden.

Planting dates for fruit trees in the fall

Of great importance for the successful rooting of seedlings is the time when they make autumn plantings of cultivated trees. It is very important to plant before the onset of frost, so that the trees can form young roots before the soil is seized by frost.

AT different regions these dates differ significantly, but much depends on the weather conditions prevailing in the current period. Very often, frosts do not occur at the time that has historically developed in the region, therefore, before planting seedlings of fruit trees, it is very important to study the weather reports.

Important! It is worth starting planting seedlings after the foliage has fallen from garden trees. The end of leaf fall is the main reference point for the start of work.

Approximate dates for planting fruit seedlings in different regions:

1. The middle lane is from mid-September to mid-October.
2. Southern regions of the country - October-November.
3. Northern regions - from the beginning to the end of September.

Sometimes an unexpected embarrassment happens - the purchased seedlings have not yet been planted in the ground, and the weather brought a surprise, winter began much earlier. What to do in this case? Fruit seedlings can be stored until spring, The best way- dig them in the garden before the onset of warm weather, but you can save young trees in the basement or greenhouse.

Which seedlings prefer autumn planting

Not all horticultural crops tolerate planting well in autumn, so it is important to choose species and varieties of fruit trees that successfully adapt during autumn planting, are able to endure winter cold in the period after transplant stress.

What trees to choose for autumn planting? It is best to give preference to zoned varieties with high winter hardiness during the autumn planting, because in the cold period the seedlings must be resistant to frost.

It is not recommended to purchase seedlings that were dug up before the end of leaf fall, such trees have unripened wood, which threatens with considerable problems in the winter.

Autumn planting is not suitable for thermophilic varieties, apricot and peach seedlings planted in autumn are especially resistant to winter.

Best fruit crops for planting in autumn: apple and pear trees winter-hardy varieties, raspberries, currants of all kinds, gooseberries, honeysuckle. From ornamental trees transplantation in autumn is well tolerated by seedlings of chokeberry, birch, chestnut, willow, walnut and all conifers.

Apple tree: how to plant a tree in autumn

For planting, you should choose a plot of the garden where the level ground water located at least 2 meters below ground level. Trees do not tolerate wetting, so it is very important to choose a dry place right away.

If planting is scheduled for the end of September, the pits begin to be prepared at the end of August; in any case, the prepared pit should stand for at least a month before planting. Preparing pits for planting garden trees in the fall is a responsible matter, you need to approach the event with all seriousness.

On the selected site, which should have a good solar lighting, dig a hole with dimensions:

1. Diameter - up to 1 m.
2. Depth - 0.7 m.

To support the seedling, a strong wooden stake is driven into the center of the recess. So that the lower part of the support peg does not rot, it is first burned on fire or protected with special means.

Now it's time to prepare the soil. For an apple tree, it is preferable to prepare a substrate of the following composition:

1. Garden land ( upper layer taken when digging a hole) - 2 hours.
2. Peat - 1 hour
3. Sod land - 2 hours
4. Compost, humus - 2 hours
5. Sand - 1 hour

Fill the hole with prepared soil, laying the soil in the form of a cone. A month before planting, the soil in the pit will settle and compact.

Important! If the garden soil contains a lot of sand, a small layer of clay is placed at the bottom of the hole to help keep irrigation water near the root of the tree.

Special planting of apple seedlings is necessary in areas with high level groundwater - in this case, trees are planted on hills up to 1.5 m high.

It is most convenient to plant seedlings together, when one person fixes the tree near the peg, the other covers the roots with soil. The seedling is placed on the south side of the support peg. It is important to observe the position of the root collar of the tree, which should not be deeply buried. The ideal position of the root neck of an apple tree is 5 cm above the soil surface.

Important! When filling up the roots of an apple tree, do not leave pockets and sinuses unfilled with earth.

After planting, young apple trees are watered (each tree will require from 2 to 3 buckets of water), the soil surface is mulched with bark, leaves, peat - this helps to retain moisture in the soil and insulates the roots of the tree in extreme cold.

If several apple trees are planted at the same time, the distance between the rows of trees should be at least 5-6 m.

Planting fruit trees in the fall allows you to unload the gardener in the spring, when he has a fairly busy work schedule.

Many gardeners believe that any planting and transplanting should be done in the spring, before the juices begin to flow. Is it permissible to plant shrubs in the fall, how and what should be done for the successful wintering of such plants?

Just like at the beginning of the season, in the fall there are three ways to plant:

- with bare roots;
– container seedlings;
- with a clod of earth.

Bare-root seedlings

The very first rule that a gardener must remember in this case: plants with an open root system can only be planted after the end of the active growing season. If it is not observed, the risk of freezing and unsuccessful wintering of seedlings increases many times. No additional cover will help here. Even putting on protective covers made of special breathable material, supposedly protecting against any natural disasters.

Determining the end of the growth of a shrub is not so difficult. Such a plant usually has well-formed apical buds, and all young shoots are already lignified to the very tips. You need to be especially careful with seedlings that have endured a hot and dry summer - their growing season can drag on much longer than usual and continue at a time when leaf fall has already begun in other years.

But berry bushes, on the contrary, are recommended to be planted at the end of the season. They are easier to transplant in the fall, after leaf fall. In the spring, berry bushes begin to prepare for fruiting very early and are not able to quickly build up a new root system. spring planting will lead to the fact that this year they will not give a full harvest.

It is dangerous to plant plants with bare roots and those that were brought from afar. Especially from areas with a mild and warm climate. These specimens may simply not survive the winter in more severe conditions.

And finally, the third rule: you can not be late with the landing. Experts recommend completing all planting work no later than the second week of October. The reason is very simple: it takes time for the trees to have time to thoroughly take root in a new place before severe frosts. In order to calmly survive the winter, the shrub must put down new roots in the fall, in exchange for those lost during transplantation. Only then will the root system be able to fully function and withstand adverse weather conditions.

It is advisable to keep each newly acquired plant in a vessel with water immediately before planting. The roots must be saturated with moisture - it is not known how much time they spent on outdoors. The clay talker, which often protects the root system from drying out before being sold, must be washed off.

Seedlings with an earthen clod

Shrubs transported with a clod of earth on their roots are much easier to transplant, no matter what time of year they are planted. But, when purchasing such material for autumn planting, you need to pay attention to the following details:

- the state of the earthen coma;
- the end of the growth period of the plant.

If a earthen clod on the roots is in bad condition- is not packed and crumbles, then, in fact, all the same rules apply to the seedling as in the case of an open root system. When the lump is wrapped with burlap or a special mesh, the plant is suitable for planting in the autumn. But, when removing the packaging, you must proceed very carefully. The mesh should not be removed or moved from the roots at all - it will not interfere with the growth of the roots and will eventually disintegrate in the ground.

container seedlings

Seedlings grown in containers can be planted at any time of the year. The only reason that is an obstacle to autumn planting is a long stay in a confined space.

In insufficient capacity, the root system continues to develop, but gradually the roots begin to twist or grow in reverse side- inside the container. Landed in open ground they are quite long time will not be able to work normally, which will inevitably affect the functioning of other organs of the plant. Such a seedling may not survive the vagaries of winter weather - get wet or freeze slightly.

Fertilization

When planting shrubs in the fall, it is necessary to carefully observe the dosage of fertilizers applied. This is especially true for mineral supplements. Potassium, calcium and especially nitrogen chemicals can be dangerous and even destructive to the roots at this time. Only phosphate fertilizers can be placed directly into the planting hole.

In no case should you add fresh or insufficiently rotted or slurry when planting - these are fertilizers for the warm season. You can use only special preparations to accelerate root formation, such as Humat or Kornevin, strictly observing the concentration recommended in the instructions.

Additional protection

The simplest measure aimed at protecting newly planted shrubs from adverse weather conditions is the mulching of tree trunks. It is better to use organic mulch - peat, rotten, chaff. Only hay and sliced ​​\u200b\u200bwill not work - mice love to settle in them in winter. In no case should the soil be covered plastic wrap or roofing material - they do not allow air to pass through, and the plants risk dying from decay. In the spring, as soon as the snow melts, the mulch layer must be removed as soon as possible. This will allow the earth to warm up under the direct rays of the sun.

Young and immature seedlings often suffer from snow breaks in winter. To protect the bushes, it is necessary to pull their branches with twine or a special net. This is especially important for conifers bearing the brunt of the snowfall. Another solution to this problem is the use of special covers made of breathable non-woven material.

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